CA1194330A - Single bar lock-stitch lofted fabric construction - Google Patents
Single bar lock-stitch lofted fabric constructionInfo
- Publication number
- CA1194330A CA1194330A CA000432045A CA432045A CA1194330A CA 1194330 A CA1194330 A CA 1194330A CA 000432045 A CA000432045 A CA 000432045A CA 432045 A CA432045 A CA 432045A CA 1194330 A CA1194330 A CA 1194330A
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- warp elements
- stitch
- knitting thread
- elements
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Abstract
ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE
A fabric having a novel lock-stitch construction is made on a stitch-through type machine equipped with a single knitting thread guide bar and comprises a flexible substrate such as a layer of textile yarn filling elements, a plurality of warp elements laid on the substrate in the longitudinal or warpwise direction, and knitting thread forming a multiplicity of warp-wise stitches in a lock-stitch configuration. The knitting thread lock-stitch configuration consists essentially of chain stitch courses on a given knitting thread wale to bind together into an integrated structure the substrate and warp elements, to secure the substrate and warp elements against relative dis-placement, and to stabilize the fabric against running or lifting off of the warp elements from the fabric surface. As a result of the knitting thread lock stitch configuration, the fabric exhibits an aesthetically pleasing appearance correspond-ing to the loft imparted to the warp elements by virtue of the non-binding of the warp elements by the chain stitch components of the knitting thread network.
A fabric having a novel lock-stitch construction is made on a stitch-through type machine equipped with a single knitting thread guide bar and comprises a flexible substrate such as a layer of textile yarn filling elements, a plurality of warp elements laid on the substrate in the longitudinal or warpwise direction, and knitting thread forming a multiplicity of warp-wise stitches in a lock-stitch configuration. The knitting thread lock-stitch configuration consists essentially of chain stitch courses on a given knitting thread wale to bind together into an integrated structure the substrate and warp elements, to secure the substrate and warp elements against relative dis-placement, and to stabilize the fabric against running or lifting off of the warp elements from the fabric surface. As a result of the knitting thread lock stitch configuration, the fabric exhibits an aesthetically pleasing appearance correspond-ing to the loft imparted to the warp elements by virtue of the non-binding of the warp elements by the chain stitch components of the knitting thread network.
Description
SI~GLE ~n LOCI~-Sl'ITCH LOI;`TEI~ 13~IC CONSTRllCTION
. ~
DESCRIPTION
5 Technical ~ield This invention relates to non-woven fabrics.
~ore particularly, it relates t~ non-woven composite fabrics of novel functional and aesthetic design which are 10 produced on stitch-through type machines and which are ~seful, among other things, in decorative applications such as draperies and bedspreads~
Back~round Art Stitch-through fabrics typically comprise a layer of substantially parallel warp elements or ends on a flexible substrate such as a layer of suhstantially parallel textile yarn filling elements or ends. The warp 20 elements are affixed to the flexible substrate by layins them on top of the substrate an~ joining both components into an integrated fabric structure by means of relatively fine knitting or sewing threads. In cases where a more or less open mesh fabric is desired, this can be achieved by controlling the spacing hetween the individual warp elements and, where the flexible substrate is a layer of textile yarn filling elements, by controlling also the spacing between the individual fillinq elements. ~his and other i'stitcl~
through" type fabric structures can be obtained on various 30 ~achines, including those of the "~alimo" type, using methods and equipment described in U. S. 2,890,579; U. S. 3,030,786;
U. S. Re. 25,749; U. S. 3,253,426; U. S. 3,274,806; U. S.
3,279,221; i). S. 3,309,900; U. S. 3,389,583; U. ~. 3,3Y2,078;
U. S. 3,440,B40; U. S. 3,452,561; U. S~ 3,457,i38; U. S.
3,q~0,599; U. S. 3,5~0,238; t~. S. 3,5~1,812; U. S. 3,567,565;
and 3,592,025.
r~
_ -2-1 The ability to readily mass-produce a hasic fabric in a variety of designs and patterns is extremely important to the commercial success of the Eabric. While stitch-through fabrics can be produced at relatively high 5 speed compared to woven fabrics, much attention has been given to augmenting this desirable feature with design flexibility, e.g., with respect to the nature, density, gauge, and color of the fabric components, the spacing be~7een them, and the purposeful omission of a component or 10 the addition of other components.
However, a need has existed for stitch-through fabrics of still further design flexibility, not only with respect to the creation of unusual visual effects but also 5 with respect to achieving new and useful functional features. For example, in prior commercial Malimo fabrics having warp elements, the latter are secured to the sub-strate by the sewing or knitting thread network in a half-tricot stitch configuration. Such a network inherently 20 causes the warp elements to lie flat against the substrate with no possibility for creating a "loft" or ;'blooming"
effect in the warp component which would be a highly desirable way of simulating the appearance of depth, as for example, in relatively expensive hand-woven fabrics.
25 Also, the nature of the conventional half-tricot stitch configuration of the knitting thread network is such that the warp elements are inherently susceptible to destructive runs or lifting ofE from the fabric surface due to "unzip-pering" or unravelling of the knitting thread network 30 be~inning at the cut end of the fabric. In the past, this drawback in Malimo fabrics could be dealt with only by a separate and, therefore, time consuming and costly secure-ment operation performed on the cut ends of greige goods subse~ue~t to ~1Offing and each time the fabric is cut 35 during converting and Einishing.
Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a novel decorative fabric concept using stitch-through type machines.
Another object is to provide novel decorative fabrics using stitch-through type machines wherein the warp elements of the fabric exhibit a lofted and/or bloomed appearance.
Yet another ob~ect is to provide novel decorative fabrics using stitch-through type machines wherein the warp elements have a substantially increased resistance to running or being lifted off the fabric due to unzippering or unravelling of the sewing or knitting thread network.
These and other objects of the invention as well as a fuller understanding of the advantages thereof can be had by reference to the following detailed description, drawings and claims.
isclosure of the Invention The foregoing objects are achieved according to the present invention by a novel fabric concept utilizing at lease one needle guide bar on a stitch-through type machine such as, but not limited to a Malimo machine. Such a fabric comprises a fle~ible substrate, a plurality of warp elements laid on the substrate in the general warpwise or machine (i.e., longitudinal) direction, and knitting or sewing threads in parallel warpwise wales across the width of the fabric. ~rhe warp or "design" elements (so called because of the aesthetically pleasing appearance and ornamental effect which they impart to the fabric) can be caused to follow non-rectilinear paths along the wa~rpwise direction, and/or in a twisted conEiguration. The knitting or sewing threads form a multiplicity of loop stitches in a configuration consisting essentially of chain stitch courses on a given knit--ting thread wale. The knitting thread thus forms a "lock-stitch"
network ~h:Lch binds ': ~
together into an integrated fabric structure the substrate and warp elements and secures the substrate an~ warp ele~nents against relative displacement.
The term "lock-stitch" as used herein and as will be more fully explained below, refers to a knitting thread configuration which affords increased resistance to running of the warp elements by virtue of the fact that such elements pass over some of the courses of the knitting thread network.
Due to the intermittent non-binding effect of the lock stitch knitting thread configuration the fabrics of the invention possess an aesthetically pleasing appearance corresponding to the loft or "loose look" imparted to the lofted warp element segments by the non-binding or relaxation effect of the chain stitch courses or components of the lock-stitch knitting thread configuration. In addition/ it has been discovered that this unique lock-stitch configuration of the knitting thread network effectively stabilizes the fabric, in a manner not heretofore possible~ against destructive unzippering or unravelling of the knitting thread network and resultant running or lifting off of the warp elements from the fabric surface, particularly at the cut ends of the fabric where such unravelling and runs are most likely to begin.
In one embodiment of the fabric of the present invention, the lock-stitch knitting thread configuration comprises, on a given knitting thread wale, at least one half-tricot stitch followed by one or more chain stitches, with generally from 3 to 32 loops or courses per linear inch as measured in the warp-wise dixection and generally from 3 to 22 parallel knitting thread wales per linear inch as measured in the weftwise dir-ection. Desirably, the fabric has ~rom 6 to 16 and preferably from 6 to 12 knitting thread courses per inch and from ~ to 18, and perferably from 7 to 10 knitting thread wales per inch.
In the preferred case of a fabric having from 6 to 12 courses per inch and from 7 to 10 wales per inch, the knitting thread lock-stitch sequence will preferably have at least three con-secutive chain stitch courses followed by one or more half-tricot stitch courses.
It is a feature of the above--descirbed knitting thread lock-stitch configuration that it stabilizes the fabric to an extent not heretofore possible by virtue of the discovery that on a given knitting thread wale, the chain stitches "lock" the tricot stitches down on the body of the fabric so that any un-ravelling or unzippering which develops in the half-tricot stitch portion of the wale are arrested at the half-tricot stitch/chain stitch juncture. In this way, when a warp element is pulled or subjected to a displacement force, say, at the cut end of the fabric, any running or "lifting off" of the warp element from the surface of the fabric can only commence in and proceed through the first half-tricot stitch region of a knitting thread wale. As soon as the unravelment encounters the juncture or intersection of the first chain stitch portion with the following half-tricot stitch portion of the wale, the run is effectively halted.
Another unique and totally unexpected feature of the fabric construction described is the fact that, as the ratio of the number of chain stitch courses to the number of half-tricot stitch courses increases per unit length along a given wale (having a given number of courses per unit length) the loft or "loose look'! of the fabric increases while the strength of the fabric, i.e., the resistance of the warp elements to running or lifting off, also increases. In addition, such stability of the warp elements increases with increasing number of courses per unit length along the wale.
The warp elements suitable for use in the present invention can be any of those elements here-tofore used in stitch-through ;Eabric construct:Lon. O:E particular pre:Eerence are yarns, such as multifilament figure yarns, multifilament low twist crimped yarns, taslanized (air-entangled) yarns, spiral yarns consisting of low twist spun yarns combined with a fine binder yarn; and/or ribbons, such as fabri.c or felted ribbons because of their ability to exhibit optimum unfettered loft or bloom in those regions where the elements are free of the confini.ng effect of the knitting thread. When employed in the present f~bric construction, the warp elements can be laid on the flexible substrate component in either mutually contacting relationship or can be spaced apart from one another in the ~eftwise dir-ection at any predetermined distance. In one embodiment of the invention, the warp elements are substantially spaced apart in order to amplify and enhance the visual effect of the "home spun" or "open-weave look" characteristic of fabrics pro-duced in stitch-through type machines. The warp elements can either be caused to follow non-rectilinear paths as described 3 in U.S. Patent No. 3,672,187 or twisted paths as described in U.S. Patent No. 4,144,727 - '7 ~
1 The flexible substrate upon which the warp elements are laid in forming the fabric o the present inven~ion can be a pre-knitted (e.g., tricot) or pre-woven fabric; fibrous batting, or any other continuous sheeting;
' one or more layers of textile filling elements rL1nning in 5 a general weftwise direction with respect to the warp elements, or any other flexible structure capable o beiny secured to the warp elements ~ith ~nitting thread according to procedures described in U~ S. 3,672,187 and now familiar to those skilled in the art of stitch-10 through fabric construction. In the case of fabricshaving the open-~esh "home spun" appearance characteristic of casement or drapery fabrics, a flexible substrate in the form of at least one layer of more or less spaced-apart textile filling yarns or elements is preferred.
'- The knitting thread used to bind together into an integrated textile fabric structure the warp elements and flexible substrate can be any thread heretofore used in stitch-through fabric construction and is applied to the fabric components by means of the mechanical stitching - elements conventionally employed, for example, on Malimo-type stitch-through machines. These elements and their mode of operation ~re well known to those sk'illed in the art and include a comb-like sinker bar and comb-like retainer pin bar, which together define an elongated space or work zone for fabric ~ormation between them. The stitching elements include additionally a row of pronged or bearde~ pointed needles and corresponding closing wires the combination of which is caused to move in a reciprocat-in~ fashion through the aforesaid work ~one in coactionwith a row of knitting threa~ guides for forming a multi-plicity of warp-wise knitting thread loop chains. In the operation of the machine, alternate loops in the half-tricot stitch portion of each chain are formed with a different knittinq thread~ Loop chains of the type ; characterist:;c of the halE-tricot stitch configuratiorl are . . . . . .
.... . . . . . .
~ ~Q ~ 3~
1 preferred for use in combination with chain stitches when the fabric includes warp elements laid in rectilinear (straight line) fashion in the warpwise direction because of the normally greater structural integrity imparted to the overall fabric by the half-tricot stitch component of the knitting thread network. In such cases the fabric components are engaged and held together by the loops of ~nittin~ thread courses on the rear side of the fabric and by the laps of the ~nitting thread courses on the front surface by which, in the half~tricot stitch regions, the diagonal segment or laps formed by the knitting thread secures the warp to the substrate. In this way the warp elements are "lapped" by the sewing thread around the substrate (e.g., textile yarn filling elements) to achieve an integrated fabric structure. In those regions of the knitting thread network which are made up of chain stitches, such stitches are forrned of a single knitting thread end which defines a single wale of the thread network.
In practisina the invention, at least two warp elements can be laid on the substrate along non-rectilinear paths in the warpwise direction thereby creating a design effect which serves to augment the aesthetically pleasin~ appearance of the fabric. More particularly, such warp "design elements" can include portions of s~bstantial lenqth ex-tending diagonally, relative to the warpwise direction, along straight lines or curvin~ substantially uniformly. The warp elements can be disposed in groups composed of at least two adjacent elements following a substantially identical pattern.
Alternatively~ adjacent warp elements can be laid on the flexible substrate to form different patterns, e.g., wherein they form the same pattern but one is reversed relative to the other. This fabric design feature and an apparatus and method ~or achieving it, which can be 1 practice~ in conjunction with the present invention, ~re described respectively in ~. ~. 3~672,187, particularly at column 1, line 31 through column 3, line ~4, and UO S.
3,677,034, particularly at column 1, line 44 through 5 colum~ 8, line 22, In another embodiment of the invention~ which can, - if desire~, be employed in combination with the embodiment 10 described in the preceding paragraph, a further aesthetically pleasina appearance can be obtained by varying a plurality o~ adjacent warp elements in their relative level positions along the length of the fabric by twistina them at spaced . : intervals along the warp direction in th~ manner disclosed 5 in the aforementioned U~ S. Pat. No. 4,144,727. In particuiar, the adjacent warp elements which are twisted at spaced intervals along the warpwise direction of the . fabric can be laid on the substrate in the in.tervals between twists in either mutually contacting relationship 20 or can be spaced apart from.one another in the weftwise direction at any pre~etermined distance. Desirably, such warp elements are substantially spaced apart in order to amplify the visual effect of the twist by contrast.
The degree of "t~ist" imparted to the warp elements 25 can be any angular amount from greater than ODC to 360 although a degree of twist of ~esirably at least 90 and preferably 180.D is preferred in order to maximize the visual effect created by the twist configuration,.and to achieve a true twistin~ or crossing over of the warp 30 elements as opposed to apparent twisting brought about by . proximation of the warp elements without an actual crossing over of such elements, which apparent twistin~ ;
obtains when the degree of twist is less than 90. In the case of a 180 twistl opposite warp elements in a group of two or more are caused to exchange places with each other ~ . .
. , .
1 and then return to their original relative Dositions along the fabric with each alternate twist. In the rcgion.s or intervals hetween the twists, the elements can be laid on the flexible substrate in a substantially rectilinear or 5 straight line fashion parallel to the warpwise directions;
alternatively, as described hereinabove, the warp elements can be caused to follow non-rectilinear paths in conjunc-tion with their t~isted confi~uration.
In connection with the embodiments desc~ibed in the fo}.egoing two paraaraphs i~.has been discovered that the lock-stitch kn~ttin~ thread network can be made u~ entirely or substan-tially entirely o~ looPs of the chain stit~h type whereby 15 the warp elements are secured .to the .substrate by the knitting thread wales at the points where the warp elements, running diagonally to the warpwise airection, intersect the knitting-thread wales. In such cases,.the aforementioned loft eLfect in the warp elements i 5 aChieVea 20 in those regions where such elements do not intersect the knitting thread wales, ~articularly where the ~7arn elements are substantially parallel to the ~nitting-thread wales, i-e-v in the longitudinal'airection At *he same time, the warp i elernents are effecti~ely secured against running or lifting 25 off by virtue o~ the exclusively chain st'itch nature of the knitting-thread wales, which are substantiall~.immune fro~
unzippering .or unravelling'in the longitudinal ~irection due .
to the absence of cross-lapning over a warp element.
In addition to the chain stitchjhalf-tricot stltch and all-chain stitch knitting thread networks des,cribed above, the scope of the ~resent invention includes fahrics in which the.lock-stitch knitting thread network'is in-the 'form of a thre'e-needle atlas stitch'confi~ur~tion whereby 35 the aforemen~.ioned desi~n and ~unctional fabric.concepts of.the present invention can also be realized, as will- be .
" , . 1 .,..... .,, ,- . ,, .. , ,, ,, 3~
more fully explained hereinbelow~
In still another embodiment of the invention, the fabric further comprises a flexible sel~1iner material disposed beneath the flexible substrate ~which in turn is laid beneath the warp elements). The knitti~g thread network having the aforementioned lock-stitch configuration, whose loops appear on the rear surface of the lining material, likewi~e bincls together into an integrated self-lined textile fabric structure the lining matexial, the flexible substrate and the warp elements and secures said com-ponents against relati~e displacement. The fabric of this embodimentachieves a further combination of ~unctional utility and decorative visual effect of aesthetically pleasing appearance through the unique placement of the functional lining of flexible material which is disposed behind or beneath the flexible substrate-(e g., of textile filling elements) and the textile warp elements. In this way, the lining material pexforms its fun~tion (e.g., thermal acoustic or optical insulation) without interfering with the unity of warp and filling or obstructing the effect of the intermediate substrate layer (e.g., of filling yarn elements) and the outer layer of warp yarn elementsO Such self-lined fabric construction provides practical as well as aesthetically useful composite fabrics in which the lining material performs a definite function (e~g., thermal insulation) either per se or through various post-treatments (e.g., resin back-coating which also provides a convenient way of achieving a "blackout" effect when desired) without interfering with the de-ccrative function of the r maining compone ts of th- ~abric ~hich 1 are positioned in front oE the lining or hackinq component.
The flexible linin~ or baclcin~ material comDonent of the foregoing embodiment is preferably a layer of 5 fibrous non-woven, pre-knitted (e.g., tricot~ or pre-woven fabric. The us~ of such lining materials is particularly advantageous because of the e~se with which, say, an applied fibrous n~n-woven linin~ can be subse~uentl~
back-coated ~ith a thin layer of polymer, e.g., acrylic or 10 urethane foa~, to impart effective thermal insula~ing or barrier pro~erties ~hile retaininq the desired casement-like "feel" and "look" of the co~posite fabric as a whole.
Alternatively, the lining can be any other flexible material capable of beina stitched-through by knitting 15 thread and secured thereby to the overlying substrate (e.g., filling yarns) and warp elements. ~uch other lining materials include, without limitation, synthetic polymeric compositions such as Eoamed polyurethane, polymeric film, and fibrous batting, e.a., continuous 20 ~ilament batting, and these can also be given a polymeric back-coating, if desired. Exam~les of embodiments of the invention include Eabrics in which the self-liner is a con-tinuous sheet material in the form o~ randomly arranged highly dispersed continuous filaments, e.g., spun-bonded continuous 25 filament polyester sold by E.-I. du Pont de Nemours & Co.
under the trademark "Reemay", an~l entangled staple fiber, e.g., spun-laced polyester staple sold hy du Pont under the trade-mark "Sontara". As indicated above, these liners can be back-coated with polYmeric compo.sitions. Other materials 30 suitable for use as the self-liner of the fabric of the present invention will be apparent to those skilled in the art upon appreciation of the present disclosure. In the case where the substrate is other than a layer of textile Eilling yarns, e.g., continuous sheet material, a Eabric 1 is obtained which in effect has two linings.
The self-lined fabric embodiment of the invention can also be heat-bonded in pattern design to another fabric by use of Pinsonic-type quilting, the details of the application of which to the fabric o this invention will be apparent to those skilled in the art and having the benefit of the present disclosure before them. The self-lined fabric of such embodiment can be either foamed or unfoamed. In this manner, the back of the fabric will be quilted while the face side is unquilted.
The fabrics produced in the manner of the present invention employing knitting thread to bind the warp elements and the flexible substrate into an integrated structure have the feature in which the knitting thread pierces the individual warp elements and pierces the flexihle substrate (in the case of filling yarns~ at a substantial number of random points to further secure the substrate and warp ele~ents against relative displace-ment.
In its broad aspect, the fabrics of the present in~ention can be produced on a stitch-through machine, e.g., a Malimo-type stitch-through machine, by the steps of ~a) delivering a flexible substrate to the above-described work zone of the stitch-through type machine and (b) delivering to the work æone conjointly with and in superimposed relation to the substrate a plurality of warp elements. The superimposed warp elements and flexible substrate are bound together at the work ~one of the machine by the warpwise knitting thread network to form an integrated structure which is the fabric of the present invention in greige form, and which is ready for ~5 further processing to finished fabric according to art-, recognized procedures, e.g., dyeing, drying, resinating, etc.
The particular aspect of the foregoing procedure which makes possible the formatio of the present novel fabric construction is the use of at least one and preferably a single knitting thread needle guide bar which can be pro-grammed, in a manner which will be apparent to those skilled in the art and having the benefit of the present disclosure of the invention before them, to deliver the knitting threads of each wale to the stitching elements in one or more of the above-described stiching sequences. In one embodiment the guide bar shaft of a Malimo machine which carries the stitch-ing yarn guides is disconnected from the horizontal motion eccentric and its horizontal motion is derived from and con-trolled by a pattern chain similar to those used on tricot or raschel warp knitting machines for control of their yarn guides.
The said pattern chain could be driven from the main malimo machine shaft or other shaft by gears, sprockets or timing belts. In this way, it is possible to produce the present fabrics at a rate of speed comparable to that at which conven-tional stitch-through fabrics are produced having the normal half-tricot stitch knitting thread configuration throughout.
In addition, the use of at least one and preferably a single knitting thread needle bar to lay the wales of knitting thread results in a fabric in which the lofted and unlofted portions of the warp yarn elements extend in parallel bands transversely across the fabric, i.e., in the weftwise direction, thereby imparting a unique secondary pattern to the "loose look" of the fabric.
Brief Description Of The Drawing Further details of the present invention and the ad-vantages thereof can be had by referecne to the accompanying drawings wherein:
FIG. 1 is a plan view of the front surface of a prior art fabric of convential structure with respect to the disposition of the warp elements on the flexible substrate.
1 FIG. 2 is a schematic representation of the movement of the knitting-needle g~ide bar for producing a segment of a stitch-through fabric of the invention;
FIG. 3 is a schematic representation of the rnovement of the knitting-needle guide bar for producing a segment of another type of stitch-through fahric of the inventlon;
FIG. 4A is a plan view of the front surface of a first embodiment of the fabric of the invention;
FIG. 4B is an enlarged front view of a portion of the fabric of FIG. 4A showing the relationship 5 between the elements thereof;
FIG. 4C is a further enlarged front view of a portion of the fabric of FIG. 4A showing the relatio~ship between the flexible substrate and knitting thread;
.
FIG. 4D is an enlarged plan view ~f the rear surface of a portion:of the fabric of FIG. 4A;
.
FIG. 5A is a plan view of the front surface of a 25 second embodiment of the fabric of the invention;
, FIG. 5B is an enlarged front view of a portion of the fabric of FIG. 5A showing the relationship between the elements thereof;
FIG. 5C is a plan vi.ew of the rear surface of the fabric of FIG. 5A; and FIG. 5D is an enlarged view of the rear surface 35 of a portion of the fabric of FIG~ 5A.
~ .
3~
_ -16-1 ~IG. 6~ is a plan view of the front surface of a third em~odiment of the fabric of the invention;
FIG~ 6B is an enlarged front view of a portion of the fabric of FIG. 6A showing the relationship between the elements thereof;
FIG. 6C is a further enlarged front view of a portion of the fabric of ~IG. 6A showing the relationship between the elements thereo;
FIG. 6D is a plan view of the rear surface of the fabric of FIG. 6A;
FIG. 7~ is a plan view of the front surface of a fourth embodiment of the fabric of the invention;
FIG. 7B is an enlarged front view of a portion of the fabric of FIG. 7A showing the relationship between the elements thereof;
FIG. 7C ls a further enlarged front view of a portion of the fabric of FIG. 7A showing ~he relationship . between the elements thereof;
FIG. 7D is a plan view of the rear surface of the fabric of FIG. 7A.
Description of the Preferred Embodiments - In the following description, the corresponding elements as shown in each figure of the drawings are given the same reference number, and letter suffixes are added to designate specific ones of these elements where necessary.
-3Ç!~
1 ~eferring to FIG. 1, there is shown a conventional stitch-through fabric composed of warp yarn elements I, textile yarn filling elements 3, and knitting thread 5 applied in a half-tricot stitch configuration network 5 throughout. ~f particular interest is the appearance of the warp yarn elements L which are uniformly secured to the flexible substrate of textile filling elements 3 by virtue of the half-tricot stitch configuration of the knitting thread network. As a r~sult, the fabric l~cks the three 10 dimensional appearance of the fabrics of the present inven-tion since the warp yarn elements are prevented from loft-ing or blooming by the uni:Eormly lapping or binding effect of the half-tricot stitches of the knitting thread.
Referring to FIGS. 2 and 3, the horizontal and vertical rows of equally spaced dots 7 represent the kni.tting needles of the stitch~thxough machine, and the vertical solid lines 9 re~resen~ the placement of the warp elements relative to the knitti.ng.thread 11 Each 20 horizontal row of dots can ~e visualized as the plan of the needle bar, each dot representing one needle head.
The bottom row of points indicates the needle bar at the first course, the second row indicates the needle bar at the second course, and so on. Thus each vertical column 25 of dots represents the same needies at successive courses, or alternatively, can be taken to represent one wale 'n the fabric. Since all the knitting thread guides on the single bar are rigidly mounted therein, they all make exactly the same movements at each course, 30 as can be seen in FIG. 2, which depicts the formation of a knitting thread lock-stitch configuration com~
prising eight consecutive chain stitch courses fol-lowed by three consecutive half-tricot stitch courses, or in FIG. 3, which depicts the formation of a knitting 35 thread lock-stitch configuration comprising a three-~ J~3 1 needle atlas stitch network.
Referring to FIG. 4A, which i5 a plan view of the front surface of a first embodiment of the fabric construction of the invention, the warp elements 13 impart a three-dimensional effect or appearance of depth to the fabric by virtue of the loft created in those lengths where the warp elements pass over the chain stitch segment of each knitting thread wale 15 of the 3-chain/1-half-tricot stitch c:onfiguration as depicted in FIG. 4B. ~IG. 4C shows in detail the aforementioned configuration of -the knitting threads 17 in relation to the textile yarn Eilling elements 19.
Referring to FIG. 4D, the loops 21 of the knitting thread courses of each wale 15 on the rear side of the fabric of FIG. 4A can be readily seen. These loops bind the non-woven fibrous batting 23 of the self-liner to the textile filling yarn substrate 19 and to 20 the warp elements (not shown).
Referring to FIG. 5A, which is a plan vi-ew of the front surface of a second embodiment of the fabric construction of the invention, the lofting of the warp elements 25 can be seen over the chain stitch portion of the 8-chainj4-half-tricot stitch knitting thread network sho~n in greater detail in FIG. 5B. Since the number ~of chain stitches 27 to half-tricot stitches 29 is greater in the fabric of FIG. 5A than in the fabric of FIG. 4A
(both fabrics having the same number o knitting thread courses per unit length), the loft imparted to the warp elements of the former is correspondingly greater.
As seen in FIG. 5C and in greater detail in FIG. 5D, the loops 31 o the knitting thread courses 32 on the rear side of the fabric of E`IG. 5A bind the fibrous __ . , r~
_ -l9 1 non-woven batting of the self liner (barely visible in the photographs) to the textile yarn filling elements 33 of the flexible substrate and to the warp elements (not shown).
Referring to FIG. 6A which is a plan view of a portion of the front surface of a third embodiment of the fabric construction of the invention, there are de-picted warp elements 35 in the form of multifilament 10 figure yarns in combination with warp elements 37 in the form of felt-like ribbons, both being joined, as shown in FIGS. 6B and 6C,to the textile filling yarns 39 of the flexible substrate by the diagonal laps .40 of the half-tricot stitch courses 41 of the 8-chain/~.-half-tricot stitçh ~nitting thread configuration, and, as shown in FIG. 6D, to.the fibrous non-woven batting of the flex-ible self-liner by the loops of the knitting thread courses of the wales 43 on the rear surface of the fabric.
FI~. 6C illustrates the dramatic effect of loft and 20 bloom 45 of the warp elements 35 and 37 in the region 45 where these elements pass over and in non-secured relation to the chain stitch courses (not shown~ of the knitting thread wales, as contrasted to the fettered appearance 49 of the.warp elements where they.are 25 secured to the textile filling elements 51 by the diagonal laps 53 of the hal.f-tricot stitch courses 41 of the knitting thread. FIG. 6A also demonstrates the decorati.ve transverse band-like arrangement of the lofted warp element segments created by the alternating chain 30 stitch and half-tricot segments of the knitting thread wales which is inherent in the use of a single needle guide ~ar as discussed above in connection with E'IGS. 2 and 3.
. .
Referring to FIG. 7~, which is a plan view of a portion o~ the front surface of a fourth embodiment of _ tl1e fabric construction of the invention, substantial 3~
_ -20-1 lengths of warp elements 55 are disposcd in a non-rectilinear rashion in the general warpwise direction of the fabric and the knitting thread wales 57 consist essentially of chai~ stitches which bind the warp elements 5 to the texti.le filling elements at the points 61 where such warp elements intersect the knittiny thread wales 63 as shown in greater detail in FIGS. 7B and 7C. The loops of the knitting thread courses of each wale G3 also bind the fibrous, gossamer-like non-woven batting of the self-10 liner on the rear surface of the fabric as shown in FIG. 7D. -The foregoing examples are presented for thepurpose of illustrating, without limitation, the novel single needle bar lock-stitch lofted fabric construction of the present invention. It is understood, of course, that changes and variations therein can be made without departing from the scope of the invention as defined in the following claims.
- -21~-1 Industrial Applicahility - The present invention introduces a novel concept in decorative and functionally ùseful fabrics using a stitch-through type machine equipped with a single knitting thread guide bar for feeding the knitting thread to the work zone of the machine so that the other components of the fa~ric, i.e., the substrate and warp elements, are held together by the knitting thread in a lock-stitch configura-tion. In this way the warp elements are secured in such a way as to have increased resistance to running which otherwise could occur, particularly at the cut ends of the fabric. The fabric also has imparted to it a decorative lofted appearance in the warp elements which creates the illusion of depth and the appearance of a three-dimensional fabric structure.
Fabrics produced according to the present inven-tion are useful in many decorative and functional applica-tions, includlng draperies, tablecloths and bedspreads.
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!
. ~
DESCRIPTION
5 Technical ~ield This invention relates to non-woven fabrics.
~ore particularly, it relates t~ non-woven composite fabrics of novel functional and aesthetic design which are 10 produced on stitch-through type machines and which are ~seful, among other things, in decorative applications such as draperies and bedspreads~
Back~round Art Stitch-through fabrics typically comprise a layer of substantially parallel warp elements or ends on a flexible substrate such as a layer of suhstantially parallel textile yarn filling elements or ends. The warp 20 elements are affixed to the flexible substrate by layins them on top of the substrate an~ joining both components into an integrated fabric structure by means of relatively fine knitting or sewing threads. In cases where a more or less open mesh fabric is desired, this can be achieved by controlling the spacing hetween the individual warp elements and, where the flexible substrate is a layer of textile yarn filling elements, by controlling also the spacing between the individual fillinq elements. ~his and other i'stitcl~
through" type fabric structures can be obtained on various 30 ~achines, including those of the "~alimo" type, using methods and equipment described in U. S. 2,890,579; U. S. 3,030,786;
U. S. Re. 25,749; U. S. 3,253,426; U. S. 3,274,806; U. S.
3,279,221; i). S. 3,309,900; U. S. 3,389,583; U. ~. 3,3Y2,078;
U. S. 3,440,B40; U. S. 3,452,561; U. S~ 3,457,i38; U. S.
3,q~0,599; U. S. 3,5~0,238; t~. S. 3,5~1,812; U. S. 3,567,565;
and 3,592,025.
r~
_ -2-1 The ability to readily mass-produce a hasic fabric in a variety of designs and patterns is extremely important to the commercial success of the Eabric. While stitch-through fabrics can be produced at relatively high 5 speed compared to woven fabrics, much attention has been given to augmenting this desirable feature with design flexibility, e.g., with respect to the nature, density, gauge, and color of the fabric components, the spacing be~7een them, and the purposeful omission of a component or 10 the addition of other components.
However, a need has existed for stitch-through fabrics of still further design flexibility, not only with respect to the creation of unusual visual effects but also 5 with respect to achieving new and useful functional features. For example, in prior commercial Malimo fabrics having warp elements, the latter are secured to the sub-strate by the sewing or knitting thread network in a half-tricot stitch configuration. Such a network inherently 20 causes the warp elements to lie flat against the substrate with no possibility for creating a "loft" or ;'blooming"
effect in the warp component which would be a highly desirable way of simulating the appearance of depth, as for example, in relatively expensive hand-woven fabrics.
25 Also, the nature of the conventional half-tricot stitch configuration of the knitting thread network is such that the warp elements are inherently susceptible to destructive runs or lifting ofE from the fabric surface due to "unzip-pering" or unravelling of the knitting thread network 30 be~inning at the cut end of the fabric. In the past, this drawback in Malimo fabrics could be dealt with only by a separate and, therefore, time consuming and costly secure-ment operation performed on the cut ends of greige goods subse~ue~t to ~1Offing and each time the fabric is cut 35 during converting and Einishing.
Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a novel decorative fabric concept using stitch-through type machines.
Another object is to provide novel decorative fabrics using stitch-through type machines wherein the warp elements of the fabric exhibit a lofted and/or bloomed appearance.
Yet another ob~ect is to provide novel decorative fabrics using stitch-through type machines wherein the warp elements have a substantially increased resistance to running or being lifted off the fabric due to unzippering or unravelling of the sewing or knitting thread network.
These and other objects of the invention as well as a fuller understanding of the advantages thereof can be had by reference to the following detailed description, drawings and claims.
isclosure of the Invention The foregoing objects are achieved according to the present invention by a novel fabric concept utilizing at lease one needle guide bar on a stitch-through type machine such as, but not limited to a Malimo machine. Such a fabric comprises a fle~ible substrate, a plurality of warp elements laid on the substrate in the general warpwise or machine (i.e., longitudinal) direction, and knitting or sewing threads in parallel warpwise wales across the width of the fabric. ~rhe warp or "design" elements (so called because of the aesthetically pleasing appearance and ornamental effect which they impart to the fabric) can be caused to follow non-rectilinear paths along the wa~rpwise direction, and/or in a twisted conEiguration. The knitting or sewing threads form a multiplicity of loop stitches in a configuration consisting essentially of chain stitch courses on a given knit--ting thread wale. The knitting thread thus forms a "lock-stitch"
network ~h:Lch binds ': ~
together into an integrated fabric structure the substrate and warp elements and secures the substrate an~ warp ele~nents against relative displacement.
The term "lock-stitch" as used herein and as will be more fully explained below, refers to a knitting thread configuration which affords increased resistance to running of the warp elements by virtue of the fact that such elements pass over some of the courses of the knitting thread network.
Due to the intermittent non-binding effect of the lock stitch knitting thread configuration the fabrics of the invention possess an aesthetically pleasing appearance corresponding to the loft or "loose look" imparted to the lofted warp element segments by the non-binding or relaxation effect of the chain stitch courses or components of the lock-stitch knitting thread configuration. In addition/ it has been discovered that this unique lock-stitch configuration of the knitting thread network effectively stabilizes the fabric, in a manner not heretofore possible~ against destructive unzippering or unravelling of the knitting thread network and resultant running or lifting off of the warp elements from the fabric surface, particularly at the cut ends of the fabric where such unravelling and runs are most likely to begin.
In one embodiment of the fabric of the present invention, the lock-stitch knitting thread configuration comprises, on a given knitting thread wale, at least one half-tricot stitch followed by one or more chain stitches, with generally from 3 to 32 loops or courses per linear inch as measured in the warp-wise dixection and generally from 3 to 22 parallel knitting thread wales per linear inch as measured in the weftwise dir-ection. Desirably, the fabric has ~rom 6 to 16 and preferably from 6 to 12 knitting thread courses per inch and from ~ to 18, and perferably from 7 to 10 knitting thread wales per inch.
In the preferred case of a fabric having from 6 to 12 courses per inch and from 7 to 10 wales per inch, the knitting thread lock-stitch sequence will preferably have at least three con-secutive chain stitch courses followed by one or more half-tricot stitch courses.
It is a feature of the above--descirbed knitting thread lock-stitch configuration that it stabilizes the fabric to an extent not heretofore possible by virtue of the discovery that on a given knitting thread wale, the chain stitches "lock" the tricot stitches down on the body of the fabric so that any un-ravelling or unzippering which develops in the half-tricot stitch portion of the wale are arrested at the half-tricot stitch/chain stitch juncture. In this way, when a warp element is pulled or subjected to a displacement force, say, at the cut end of the fabric, any running or "lifting off" of the warp element from the surface of the fabric can only commence in and proceed through the first half-tricot stitch region of a knitting thread wale. As soon as the unravelment encounters the juncture or intersection of the first chain stitch portion with the following half-tricot stitch portion of the wale, the run is effectively halted.
Another unique and totally unexpected feature of the fabric construction described is the fact that, as the ratio of the number of chain stitch courses to the number of half-tricot stitch courses increases per unit length along a given wale (having a given number of courses per unit length) the loft or "loose look'! of the fabric increases while the strength of the fabric, i.e., the resistance of the warp elements to running or lifting off, also increases. In addition, such stability of the warp elements increases with increasing number of courses per unit length along the wale.
The warp elements suitable for use in the present invention can be any of those elements here-tofore used in stitch-through ;Eabric construct:Lon. O:E particular pre:Eerence are yarns, such as multifilament figure yarns, multifilament low twist crimped yarns, taslanized (air-entangled) yarns, spiral yarns consisting of low twist spun yarns combined with a fine binder yarn; and/or ribbons, such as fabri.c or felted ribbons because of their ability to exhibit optimum unfettered loft or bloom in those regions where the elements are free of the confini.ng effect of the knitting thread. When employed in the present f~bric construction, the warp elements can be laid on the flexible substrate component in either mutually contacting relationship or can be spaced apart from one another in the ~eftwise dir-ection at any predetermined distance. In one embodiment of the invention, the warp elements are substantially spaced apart in order to amplify and enhance the visual effect of the "home spun" or "open-weave look" characteristic of fabrics pro-duced in stitch-through type machines. The warp elements can either be caused to follow non-rectilinear paths as described 3 in U.S. Patent No. 3,672,187 or twisted paths as described in U.S. Patent No. 4,144,727 - '7 ~
1 The flexible substrate upon which the warp elements are laid in forming the fabric o the present inven~ion can be a pre-knitted (e.g., tricot) or pre-woven fabric; fibrous batting, or any other continuous sheeting;
' one or more layers of textile filling elements rL1nning in 5 a general weftwise direction with respect to the warp elements, or any other flexible structure capable o beiny secured to the warp elements ~ith ~nitting thread according to procedures described in U~ S. 3,672,187 and now familiar to those skilled in the art of stitch-10 through fabric construction. In the case of fabricshaving the open-~esh "home spun" appearance characteristic of casement or drapery fabrics, a flexible substrate in the form of at least one layer of more or less spaced-apart textile filling yarns or elements is preferred.
'- The knitting thread used to bind together into an integrated textile fabric structure the warp elements and flexible substrate can be any thread heretofore used in stitch-through fabric construction and is applied to the fabric components by means of the mechanical stitching - elements conventionally employed, for example, on Malimo-type stitch-through machines. These elements and their mode of operation ~re well known to those sk'illed in the art and include a comb-like sinker bar and comb-like retainer pin bar, which together define an elongated space or work zone for fabric ~ormation between them. The stitching elements include additionally a row of pronged or bearde~ pointed needles and corresponding closing wires the combination of which is caused to move in a reciprocat-in~ fashion through the aforesaid work ~one in coactionwith a row of knitting threa~ guides for forming a multi-plicity of warp-wise knitting thread loop chains. In the operation of the machine, alternate loops in the half-tricot stitch portion of each chain are formed with a different knittinq thread~ Loop chains of the type ; characterist:;c of the halE-tricot stitch configuratiorl are . . . . . .
.... . . . . . .
~ ~Q ~ 3~
1 preferred for use in combination with chain stitches when the fabric includes warp elements laid in rectilinear (straight line) fashion in the warpwise direction because of the normally greater structural integrity imparted to the overall fabric by the half-tricot stitch component of the knitting thread network. In such cases the fabric components are engaged and held together by the loops of ~nittin~ thread courses on the rear side of the fabric and by the laps of the ~nitting thread courses on the front surface by which, in the half~tricot stitch regions, the diagonal segment or laps formed by the knitting thread secures the warp to the substrate. In this way the warp elements are "lapped" by the sewing thread around the substrate (e.g., textile yarn filling elements) to achieve an integrated fabric structure. In those regions of the knitting thread network which are made up of chain stitches, such stitches are forrned of a single knitting thread end which defines a single wale of the thread network.
In practisina the invention, at least two warp elements can be laid on the substrate along non-rectilinear paths in the warpwise direction thereby creating a design effect which serves to augment the aesthetically pleasin~ appearance of the fabric. More particularly, such warp "design elements" can include portions of s~bstantial lenqth ex-tending diagonally, relative to the warpwise direction, along straight lines or curvin~ substantially uniformly. The warp elements can be disposed in groups composed of at least two adjacent elements following a substantially identical pattern.
Alternatively~ adjacent warp elements can be laid on the flexible substrate to form different patterns, e.g., wherein they form the same pattern but one is reversed relative to the other. This fabric design feature and an apparatus and method ~or achieving it, which can be 1 practice~ in conjunction with the present invention, ~re described respectively in ~. ~. 3~672,187, particularly at column 1, line 31 through column 3, line ~4, and UO S.
3,677,034, particularly at column 1, line 44 through 5 colum~ 8, line 22, In another embodiment of the invention~ which can, - if desire~, be employed in combination with the embodiment 10 described in the preceding paragraph, a further aesthetically pleasina appearance can be obtained by varying a plurality o~ adjacent warp elements in their relative level positions along the length of the fabric by twistina them at spaced . : intervals along the warp direction in th~ manner disclosed 5 in the aforementioned U~ S. Pat. No. 4,144,727. In particuiar, the adjacent warp elements which are twisted at spaced intervals along the warpwise direction of the . fabric can be laid on the substrate in the in.tervals between twists in either mutually contacting relationship 20 or can be spaced apart from.one another in the weftwise direction at any pre~etermined distance. Desirably, such warp elements are substantially spaced apart in order to amplify the visual effect of the twist by contrast.
The degree of "t~ist" imparted to the warp elements 25 can be any angular amount from greater than ODC to 360 although a degree of twist of ~esirably at least 90 and preferably 180.D is preferred in order to maximize the visual effect created by the twist configuration,.and to achieve a true twistin~ or crossing over of the warp 30 elements as opposed to apparent twisting brought about by . proximation of the warp elements without an actual crossing over of such elements, which apparent twistin~ ;
obtains when the degree of twist is less than 90. In the case of a 180 twistl opposite warp elements in a group of two or more are caused to exchange places with each other ~ . .
. , .
1 and then return to their original relative Dositions along the fabric with each alternate twist. In the rcgion.s or intervals hetween the twists, the elements can be laid on the flexible substrate in a substantially rectilinear or 5 straight line fashion parallel to the warpwise directions;
alternatively, as described hereinabove, the warp elements can be caused to follow non-rectilinear paths in conjunc-tion with their t~isted confi~uration.
In connection with the embodiments desc~ibed in the fo}.egoing two paraaraphs i~.has been discovered that the lock-stitch kn~ttin~ thread network can be made u~ entirely or substan-tially entirely o~ looPs of the chain stit~h type whereby 15 the warp elements are secured .to the .substrate by the knitting thread wales at the points where the warp elements, running diagonally to the warpwise airection, intersect the knitting-thread wales. In such cases,.the aforementioned loft eLfect in the warp elements i 5 aChieVea 20 in those regions where such elements do not intersect the knitting thread wales, ~articularly where the ~7arn elements are substantially parallel to the ~nitting-thread wales, i-e-v in the longitudinal'airection At *he same time, the warp i elernents are effecti~ely secured against running or lifting 25 off by virtue o~ the exclusively chain st'itch nature of the knitting-thread wales, which are substantiall~.immune fro~
unzippering .or unravelling'in the longitudinal ~irection due .
to the absence of cross-lapning over a warp element.
In addition to the chain stitchjhalf-tricot stltch and all-chain stitch knitting thread networks des,cribed above, the scope of the ~resent invention includes fahrics in which the.lock-stitch knitting thread network'is in-the 'form of a thre'e-needle atlas stitch'confi~ur~tion whereby 35 the aforemen~.ioned desi~n and ~unctional fabric.concepts of.the present invention can also be realized, as will- be .
" , . 1 .,..... .,, ,- . ,, .. , ,, ,, 3~
more fully explained hereinbelow~
In still another embodiment of the invention, the fabric further comprises a flexible sel~1iner material disposed beneath the flexible substrate ~which in turn is laid beneath the warp elements). The knitti~g thread network having the aforementioned lock-stitch configuration, whose loops appear on the rear surface of the lining material, likewi~e bincls together into an integrated self-lined textile fabric structure the lining matexial, the flexible substrate and the warp elements and secures said com-ponents against relati~e displacement. The fabric of this embodimentachieves a further combination of ~unctional utility and decorative visual effect of aesthetically pleasing appearance through the unique placement of the functional lining of flexible material which is disposed behind or beneath the flexible substrate-(e g., of textile filling elements) and the textile warp elements. In this way, the lining material pexforms its fun~tion (e.g., thermal acoustic or optical insulation) without interfering with the unity of warp and filling or obstructing the effect of the intermediate substrate layer (e.g., of filling yarn elements) and the outer layer of warp yarn elementsO Such self-lined fabric construction provides practical as well as aesthetically useful composite fabrics in which the lining material performs a definite function (e~g., thermal insulation) either per se or through various post-treatments (e.g., resin back-coating which also provides a convenient way of achieving a "blackout" effect when desired) without interfering with the de-ccrative function of the r maining compone ts of th- ~abric ~hich 1 are positioned in front oE the lining or hackinq component.
The flexible linin~ or baclcin~ material comDonent of the foregoing embodiment is preferably a layer of 5 fibrous non-woven, pre-knitted (e.g., tricot~ or pre-woven fabric. The us~ of such lining materials is particularly advantageous because of the e~se with which, say, an applied fibrous n~n-woven linin~ can be subse~uentl~
back-coated ~ith a thin layer of polymer, e.g., acrylic or 10 urethane foa~, to impart effective thermal insula~ing or barrier pro~erties ~hile retaininq the desired casement-like "feel" and "look" of the co~posite fabric as a whole.
Alternatively, the lining can be any other flexible material capable of beina stitched-through by knitting 15 thread and secured thereby to the overlying substrate (e.g., filling yarns) and warp elements. ~uch other lining materials include, without limitation, synthetic polymeric compositions such as Eoamed polyurethane, polymeric film, and fibrous batting, e.a., continuous 20 ~ilament batting, and these can also be given a polymeric back-coating, if desired. Exam~les of embodiments of the invention include Eabrics in which the self-liner is a con-tinuous sheet material in the form o~ randomly arranged highly dispersed continuous filaments, e.g., spun-bonded continuous 25 filament polyester sold by E.-I. du Pont de Nemours & Co.
under the trademark "Reemay", an~l entangled staple fiber, e.g., spun-laced polyester staple sold hy du Pont under the trade-mark "Sontara". As indicated above, these liners can be back-coated with polYmeric compo.sitions. Other materials 30 suitable for use as the self-liner of the fabric of the present invention will be apparent to those skilled in the art upon appreciation of the present disclosure. In the case where the substrate is other than a layer of textile Eilling yarns, e.g., continuous sheet material, a Eabric 1 is obtained which in effect has two linings.
The self-lined fabric embodiment of the invention can also be heat-bonded in pattern design to another fabric by use of Pinsonic-type quilting, the details of the application of which to the fabric o this invention will be apparent to those skilled in the art and having the benefit of the present disclosure before them. The self-lined fabric of such embodiment can be either foamed or unfoamed. In this manner, the back of the fabric will be quilted while the face side is unquilted.
The fabrics produced in the manner of the present invention employing knitting thread to bind the warp elements and the flexible substrate into an integrated structure have the feature in which the knitting thread pierces the individual warp elements and pierces the flexihle substrate (in the case of filling yarns~ at a substantial number of random points to further secure the substrate and warp ele~ents against relative displace-ment.
In its broad aspect, the fabrics of the present in~ention can be produced on a stitch-through machine, e.g., a Malimo-type stitch-through machine, by the steps of ~a) delivering a flexible substrate to the above-described work zone of the stitch-through type machine and (b) delivering to the work æone conjointly with and in superimposed relation to the substrate a plurality of warp elements. The superimposed warp elements and flexible substrate are bound together at the work ~one of the machine by the warpwise knitting thread network to form an integrated structure which is the fabric of the present invention in greige form, and which is ready for ~5 further processing to finished fabric according to art-, recognized procedures, e.g., dyeing, drying, resinating, etc.
The particular aspect of the foregoing procedure which makes possible the formatio of the present novel fabric construction is the use of at least one and preferably a single knitting thread needle guide bar which can be pro-grammed, in a manner which will be apparent to those skilled in the art and having the benefit of the present disclosure of the invention before them, to deliver the knitting threads of each wale to the stitching elements in one or more of the above-described stiching sequences. In one embodiment the guide bar shaft of a Malimo machine which carries the stitch-ing yarn guides is disconnected from the horizontal motion eccentric and its horizontal motion is derived from and con-trolled by a pattern chain similar to those used on tricot or raschel warp knitting machines for control of their yarn guides.
The said pattern chain could be driven from the main malimo machine shaft or other shaft by gears, sprockets or timing belts. In this way, it is possible to produce the present fabrics at a rate of speed comparable to that at which conven-tional stitch-through fabrics are produced having the normal half-tricot stitch knitting thread configuration throughout.
In addition, the use of at least one and preferably a single knitting thread needle bar to lay the wales of knitting thread results in a fabric in which the lofted and unlofted portions of the warp yarn elements extend in parallel bands transversely across the fabric, i.e., in the weftwise direction, thereby imparting a unique secondary pattern to the "loose look" of the fabric.
Brief Description Of The Drawing Further details of the present invention and the ad-vantages thereof can be had by referecne to the accompanying drawings wherein:
FIG. 1 is a plan view of the front surface of a prior art fabric of convential structure with respect to the disposition of the warp elements on the flexible substrate.
1 FIG. 2 is a schematic representation of the movement of the knitting-needle g~ide bar for producing a segment of a stitch-through fabric of the invention;
FIG. 3 is a schematic representation of the rnovement of the knitting-needle guide bar for producing a segment of another type of stitch-through fahric of the inventlon;
FIG. 4A is a plan view of the front surface of a first embodiment of the fabric of the invention;
FIG. 4B is an enlarged front view of a portion of the fabric of FIG. 4A showing the relationship 5 between the elements thereof;
FIG. 4C is a further enlarged front view of a portion of the fabric of FIG. 4A showing the relatio~ship between the flexible substrate and knitting thread;
.
FIG. 4D is an enlarged plan view ~f the rear surface of a portion:of the fabric of FIG. 4A;
.
FIG. 5A is a plan view of the front surface of a 25 second embodiment of the fabric of the invention;
, FIG. 5B is an enlarged front view of a portion of the fabric of FIG. 5A showing the relationship between the elements thereof;
FIG. 5C is a plan vi.ew of the rear surface of the fabric of FIG. 5A; and FIG. 5D is an enlarged view of the rear surface 35 of a portion of the fabric of FIG~ 5A.
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3~
_ -16-1 ~IG. 6~ is a plan view of the front surface of a third em~odiment of the fabric of the invention;
FIG~ 6B is an enlarged front view of a portion of the fabric of FIG. 6A showing the relationship between the elements thereof;
FIG. 6C is a further enlarged front view of a portion of the fabric of ~IG. 6A showing the relationship between the elements thereo;
FIG. 6D is a plan view of the rear surface of the fabric of FIG. 6A;
FIG. 7~ is a plan view of the front surface of a fourth embodiment of the fabric of the invention;
FIG. 7B is an enlarged front view of a portion of the fabric of FIG. 7A showing the relationship between the elements thereof;
FIG. 7C ls a further enlarged front view of a portion of the fabric of FIG. 7A showing ~he relationship . between the elements thereof;
FIG. 7D is a plan view of the rear surface of the fabric of FIG. 7A.
Description of the Preferred Embodiments - In the following description, the corresponding elements as shown in each figure of the drawings are given the same reference number, and letter suffixes are added to designate specific ones of these elements where necessary.
-3Ç!~
1 ~eferring to FIG. 1, there is shown a conventional stitch-through fabric composed of warp yarn elements I, textile yarn filling elements 3, and knitting thread 5 applied in a half-tricot stitch configuration network 5 throughout. ~f particular interest is the appearance of the warp yarn elements L which are uniformly secured to the flexible substrate of textile filling elements 3 by virtue of the half-tricot stitch configuration of the knitting thread network. As a r~sult, the fabric l~cks the three 10 dimensional appearance of the fabrics of the present inven-tion since the warp yarn elements are prevented from loft-ing or blooming by the uni:Eormly lapping or binding effect of the half-tricot stitches of the knitting thread.
Referring to FIGS. 2 and 3, the horizontal and vertical rows of equally spaced dots 7 represent the kni.tting needles of the stitch~thxough machine, and the vertical solid lines 9 re~resen~ the placement of the warp elements relative to the knitti.ng.thread 11 Each 20 horizontal row of dots can ~e visualized as the plan of the needle bar, each dot representing one needle head.
The bottom row of points indicates the needle bar at the first course, the second row indicates the needle bar at the second course, and so on. Thus each vertical column 25 of dots represents the same needies at successive courses, or alternatively, can be taken to represent one wale 'n the fabric. Since all the knitting thread guides on the single bar are rigidly mounted therein, they all make exactly the same movements at each course, 30 as can be seen in FIG. 2, which depicts the formation of a knitting thread lock-stitch configuration com~
prising eight consecutive chain stitch courses fol-lowed by three consecutive half-tricot stitch courses, or in FIG. 3, which depicts the formation of a knitting 35 thread lock-stitch configuration comprising a three-~ J~3 1 needle atlas stitch network.
Referring to FIG. 4A, which i5 a plan view of the front surface of a first embodiment of the fabric construction of the invention, the warp elements 13 impart a three-dimensional effect or appearance of depth to the fabric by virtue of the loft created in those lengths where the warp elements pass over the chain stitch segment of each knitting thread wale 15 of the 3-chain/1-half-tricot stitch c:onfiguration as depicted in FIG. 4B. ~IG. 4C shows in detail the aforementioned configuration of -the knitting threads 17 in relation to the textile yarn Eilling elements 19.
Referring to FIG. 4D, the loops 21 of the knitting thread courses of each wale 15 on the rear side of the fabric of FIG. 4A can be readily seen. These loops bind the non-woven fibrous batting 23 of the self-liner to the textile filling yarn substrate 19 and to 20 the warp elements (not shown).
Referring to FIG. 5A, which is a plan vi-ew of the front surface of a second embodiment of the fabric construction of the invention, the lofting of the warp elements 25 can be seen over the chain stitch portion of the 8-chainj4-half-tricot stitch knitting thread network sho~n in greater detail in FIG. 5B. Since the number ~of chain stitches 27 to half-tricot stitches 29 is greater in the fabric of FIG. 5A than in the fabric of FIG. 4A
(both fabrics having the same number o knitting thread courses per unit length), the loft imparted to the warp elements of the former is correspondingly greater.
As seen in FIG. 5C and in greater detail in FIG. 5D, the loops 31 o the knitting thread courses 32 on the rear side of the fabric of E`IG. 5A bind the fibrous __ . , r~
_ -l9 1 non-woven batting of the self liner (barely visible in the photographs) to the textile yarn filling elements 33 of the flexible substrate and to the warp elements (not shown).
Referring to FIG. 6A which is a plan view of a portion of the front surface of a third embodiment of the fabric construction of the invention, there are de-picted warp elements 35 in the form of multifilament 10 figure yarns in combination with warp elements 37 in the form of felt-like ribbons, both being joined, as shown in FIGS. 6B and 6C,to the textile filling yarns 39 of the flexible substrate by the diagonal laps .40 of the half-tricot stitch courses 41 of the 8-chain/~.-half-tricot stitçh ~nitting thread configuration, and, as shown in FIG. 6D, to.the fibrous non-woven batting of the flex-ible self-liner by the loops of the knitting thread courses of the wales 43 on the rear surface of the fabric.
FI~. 6C illustrates the dramatic effect of loft and 20 bloom 45 of the warp elements 35 and 37 in the region 45 where these elements pass over and in non-secured relation to the chain stitch courses (not shown~ of the knitting thread wales, as contrasted to the fettered appearance 49 of the.warp elements where they.are 25 secured to the textile filling elements 51 by the diagonal laps 53 of the hal.f-tricot stitch courses 41 of the knitting thread. FIG. 6A also demonstrates the decorati.ve transverse band-like arrangement of the lofted warp element segments created by the alternating chain 30 stitch and half-tricot segments of the knitting thread wales which is inherent in the use of a single needle guide ~ar as discussed above in connection with E'IGS. 2 and 3.
. .
Referring to FIG. 7~, which is a plan view of a portion o~ the front surface of a fourth embodiment of _ tl1e fabric construction of the invention, substantial 3~
_ -20-1 lengths of warp elements 55 are disposcd in a non-rectilinear rashion in the general warpwise direction of the fabric and the knitting thread wales 57 consist essentially of chai~ stitches which bind the warp elements 5 to the texti.le filling elements at the points 61 where such warp elements intersect the knittiny thread wales 63 as shown in greater detail in FIGS. 7B and 7C. The loops of the knitting thread courses of each wale G3 also bind the fibrous, gossamer-like non-woven batting of the self-10 liner on the rear surface of the fabric as shown in FIG. 7D. -The foregoing examples are presented for thepurpose of illustrating, without limitation, the novel single needle bar lock-stitch lofted fabric construction of the present invention. It is understood, of course, that changes and variations therein can be made without departing from the scope of the invention as defined in the following claims.
- -21~-1 Industrial Applicahility - The present invention introduces a novel concept in decorative and functionally ùseful fabrics using a stitch-through type machine equipped with a single knitting thread guide bar for feeding the knitting thread to the work zone of the machine so that the other components of the fa~ric, i.e., the substrate and warp elements, are held together by the knitting thread in a lock-stitch configura-tion. In this way the warp elements are secured in such a way as to have increased resistance to running which otherwise could occur, particularly at the cut ends of the fabric. The fabric also has imparted to it a decorative lofted appearance in the warp elements which creates the illusion of depth and the appearance of a three-dimensional fabric structure.
Fabrics produced according to the present inven-tion are useful in many decorative and functional applica-tions, includlng draperies, tablecloths and bedspreads.
.
!
Claims (11)
1. A fabric made on a stitch-through type machine, comprising:
a flexible substrate;
a plurality of warp elements laid on the substrate in the general warpwise direction wherein at least two warp elements are disposed along non-rectilinear paths in the warpwise direction, each said warp element including portions of substantial length extending non-parallel to the warpwise direction; and knitting thread wales extending in the warpwise direction and containing a multiplicity of warpwise stitches in a lock-stitch configuration consisting essentially of chain stitch courses on a given knitting thread wale to bind together into an integrated structure the substrate and warp elements, to secure the substrate and warp elements against relative displacement, and to stabilize the fabric against lifting off of the warp elements, said fabric having an aesthetically pleasing appearance corresponding to the loft imparted to the warp elements by the intermittent non-binding effect of the chain stitch courses of the lock-stitch knitting thread configuration.
a flexible substrate;
a plurality of warp elements laid on the substrate in the general warpwise direction wherein at least two warp elements are disposed along non-rectilinear paths in the warpwise direction, each said warp element including portions of substantial length extending non-parallel to the warpwise direction; and knitting thread wales extending in the warpwise direction and containing a multiplicity of warpwise stitches in a lock-stitch configuration consisting essentially of chain stitch courses on a given knitting thread wale to bind together into an integrated structure the substrate and warp elements, to secure the substrate and warp elements against relative displacement, and to stabilize the fabric against lifting off of the warp elements, said fabric having an aesthetically pleasing appearance corresponding to the loft imparted to the warp elements by the intermittent non-binding effect of the chain stitch courses of the lock-stitch knitting thread configuration.
2. A fabric made on a stitch-through type machine, comprising:
a flexible substrate;
a plurality of warp elements laid on the substrate in the general warpwise direction wherein one or more of said warp elements are disposed along non-rectilinear paths in the warpwise direction and in one position cross over on top of one or more adjacent warp elements and, in a second position, cross back under said one or more adjacent warp elements; and knitting thread wales extending in the warpwise direction and containing a multiplicity of warpwise stitches in a lock-stitch configuration consisting essentially of chain stitch courses on a given knitting thread wale to bind together into an integrated structure the substrate and warp elements, to secure the substrate and warp elements against relative displacement, and to stabilize the fabric against lifting off of the warp elements, said fabric having an aesthetically pleasing appearance corresponding to the loft imparted to the warp elements by the intermittent non-binding effect of the chain stitch courses of the lock-stitch knitting-thread configuration.
a flexible substrate;
a plurality of warp elements laid on the substrate in the general warpwise direction wherein one or more of said warp elements are disposed along non-rectilinear paths in the warpwise direction and in one position cross over on top of one or more adjacent warp elements and, in a second position, cross back under said one or more adjacent warp elements; and knitting thread wales extending in the warpwise direction and containing a multiplicity of warpwise stitches in a lock-stitch configuration consisting essentially of chain stitch courses on a given knitting thread wale to bind together into an integrated structure the substrate and warp elements, to secure the substrate and warp elements against relative displacement, and to stabilize the fabric against lifting off of the warp elements, said fabric having an aesthetically pleasing appearance corresponding to the loft imparted to the warp elements by the intermittent non-binding effect of the chain stitch courses of the lock-stitch knitting-thread configuration.
3. The fabric according to claim 1 or claim 2 wherein:
said fabric has from 3 to 22 knitting thread wales per linear inch in the weftwise direction; and each knitting thread wale has from 3 to 32 courses per linear inch in the warpwise direction.
said fabric has from 3 to 22 knitting thread wales per linear inch in the weftwise direction; and each knitting thread wale has from 3 to 32 courses per linear inch in the warpwise direction.
4. The fabric according to claim 1 or claim 2 wherein:
said fabric has from 4 to 18 knitting thread wales per linear inch in the weftwise direction; and each knitting thread wale has from 6 to 16 courses per linear inch in the warpwise direction.
said fabric has from 4 to 18 knitting thread wales per linear inch in the weftwise direction; and each knitting thread wale has from 6 to 16 courses per linear inch in the warpwise direction.
5. The fabric according to claim 1 or claim 2 wherein:
said fabric has from 7 to 10 knitting thread wales per linear inch in the weftwise direction; and each knitting thread wale has from 6 to 12 courses per linear inch in the warpwise direction.
said fabric has from 7 to 10 knitting thread wales per linear inch in the weftwise direction; and each knitting thread wale has from 6 to 12 courses per linear inch in the warpwise direction.
6. The fabric according to claim 1 or 2 wherein:
the flexible substrate comprises a layer of textile yarn filling elements; and the warp elements are selected from the group consisting of yarns and ribbons.
the flexible substrate comprises a layer of textile yarn filling elements; and the warp elements are selected from the group consisting of yarns and ribbons.
7. The fabric according to claim 1 wherein one or more warp elements in one position cross over on top of one or more adjacent warp elements and, in a second position, cross back under said one or more adjacent warp elements for providing a further aesthetically pleasing appearance corresponding to a twisted configuration of warp elements at spaced intervals in combination with the non-rectilinear disposition of warp elements.
8. The fabric according to claim 1, comprising addition-ally a flexible lining material underlying the flexible substrate and warp elements such that the substrate is disposed between the lining and warp elements, and wherein the knitting thread engages and holds together the lining material, substrate and warp elements by loops of knitting thread courses on the rear surface of the fabric and by laps of knitting thread courses on the front surface of the fabric.
9. The fabric according to claim 7 wherein said fabric is further characterized in having a flexible back-coating of polymeric material.
10. The fabric according to claim 2 comprising addition-ally a flexible lining material underlying the flexible substrate and warp elements such that the substrate is disposed between the lining and warp elements, and wherein the knitting thread engages and holds together the lining material, substrate and warp elements by loops of knitting thread courses on the rear surface of the fab-ric and by laps of knitting thread courses on the front surface of the fabric.
11. The fabric according to claim 10 wherein said fabric is further characterized in having a flexible back-coating of polymeric material.
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| US06/033,181 US4285216A (en) | 1979-04-26 | 1979-04-26 | Single bar, warp lift-off-resistant, lofted fabric construction |
| US033,181 | 1979-04-26 | ||
| CA000347825A CA1150961A (en) | 1979-04-26 | 1980-03-17 | Single bar lock-stitch lofted fabric construction |
Related Parent Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CA000347825A Division CA1150961A (en) | 1979-04-26 | 1980-03-17 | Single bar lock-stitch lofted fabric construction |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CA1194330A true CA1194330A (en) | 1985-10-01 |
Family
ID=25669054
Family Applications (2)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CA000432045A Expired CA1194330A (en) | 1979-04-26 | 1983-07-07 | Single bar lock-stitch lofted fabric construction |
| CA000432046A Expired CA1194331A (en) | 1979-04-26 | 1983-07-07 | Single bar lock-stitch lofted fabric construction |
Family Applications After (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CA000432046A Expired CA1194331A (en) | 1979-04-26 | 1983-07-07 | Single bar lock-stitch lofted fabric construction |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| CA (2) | CA1194330A (en) |
-
1983
- 1983-07-07 CA CA000432045A patent/CA1194330A/en not_active Expired
- 1983-07-07 CA CA000432046A patent/CA1194331A/en not_active Expired
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CA1194331A (en) | 1985-10-01 |
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| Date | Code | Title | Description |
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| MKEX | Expiry |