CA1150153A - Skin conditioning compositions - Google Patents

Abstract

SKIN CONDITIONING COMPOSITIONS

Carol N. Tollett ABSTRACT

Skin conditioning compositions, especially compo-sitions for the care of the face, comprising an emulsion which is about 8 to 25% of skin moisturizing ingredients of which about 2.5 to 8% is a sterol, about 10 to 35%
is a sugar or a polyhydroxy alcohol, and 5 to 15% is lanolin fatty acids. An emulsifier is also present as a skin moisturizing ingredient. Other oily, moisturizing mater-ials may make up the remainder of the moisturizing fraction.

Description

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~ ~ SKIN CONDITIONING COMP05ITIONS
.' ~ , J'i ' Carol N. Tollett . : . ' ` :
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~ Technical Field : ~ `
,, `~ The present invention is related to skin condition-ing compositions which possess a unique combination of moisturizing materials. The moisturizing combination ~` 10 provides excellent skin condltioning benefits while also being very easy to rub in (i.e. very spreadable and quick to rub in) and not leaving an undesirable greasy residue on the skin.
The treatment of human skin with various agents has been undertaken for many years with the goal being to - keep the skin in a s oth and supple condition.~ Skin ~has the tendency to dry out when extended periods of ` ~ e~posure to the elements and cleaning~solutions are en-countered. From a biochemical standpoint, dryness is a -measure of the water content of the skin. Under nor-mal conditions, the water content and vapor pressure of the epidermls are hi~her than those of the surrounding ' air with consequent evaporation of water from the skin surface. Skin becomes dry because of excessive loss of water from the surface and the subsequent loss of water from the stratum corneum.
The facial areas present special problems in addition to those present with, for instance, the hands.
50me facial areas, due to high concentrations of seba-ceous and sweat glands, often feel greasy to a pèrson.
- Other facial areas do not feel this way and may feel overly dry~
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The facial areas are also subject to wrinkling which causes dificulty in achieving good distribution of facial compositions. All of these problems require ;~ that special care be taken in formulating a product 5 which is to be used on the face as well as other body . areas. ' Back~round Art To alle~iate the aforementioned conditions, emol-~ lient creams as described in Sagarin, Cosmetics -`'" 10 Science and Technolo y~ 2nd Edition, Vol. 1, Wiley Interscience (1972) have been recommended for applica-tion to the skin. The emollient materials probably in~
crease the state of hydration of the corneous layer ' of the skin by altering the rate of dif'fusion of water 15 from the lower epidermal and dermal layers, the rate ?
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' of evaporation of water from the skin's surface, and , :~ , ,.
the ability of the corneous layer to hold moisture.
The use of three of tie essential moisturizing com-ponents of the present~compositions, lanolin~fatty acids, ' ~ 20 sterols and a polyhydroxy àlcohol or a sug~r, has been disclosed in the art but not in the critical amounts ~ found to be essential in the present invention. U.S. Patent -~ 3,957,971, May 18, 1976 to Oleniac~ discloses liposomes comprising lecithin, dicetyl phosphate, a sterol and an ~'~ 25 aqueous solution of a humectant. ~.S. Patent 3,818,105, June 18, 1974 to Coopersmith et al discloses compositions ~ containing isoparafinic hydrocarbons and other cosme-'~ tic addi.i~ies such as lanolin and a humectant such as . .
propylene glycol. U.S. Patent Re. 29,814, October 24, 1978 30 to W. E. Snyder discloses compositions containing lano- '~
lin fatty acids, silicone, lanolin derivatives and '~ sorbitol. Cholesterol in a variety of compositions is disclosed in Dru~ and Cosmetic Industry, Vol. 74, pp.
52, 53, 1~7 - 13~ (1954).

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.; .i .~ , Disclosure of the Invention The present invention relates to superior skin con-ditioning compositions comprising an emulsion which contains from about 8 to about 25%, preferably from 5 about 12 to about 15%, of skin moisturizing materials ::.
of which about 205 to about 8~ is a sterol, about 10 to 35% is a suqar, a pentitol or a hexitol~ and about 5 ~` to about 15~ is lanolin fatty acids. An emulsifier is also present as a skin moisturizing ingredient.

~`~ 10 It has been discovered that the above-described components provide skin conditioning lotions which are easily rubbed into the skin and do not leave a greasy, undesirable residue.
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Detailed Description of the Invention As discussed above r the present compositions com-prise a moisturizing fraction having certain critical components. In addition, the compositions may contain additional oil soluble, skin conditioning materials to 20 work in cooperation with the critical moisturizing com-ponents. Furthermore, the present emulsion compositions may also contain additional water soluble materials to improve the overall acceptability of the compositions.
Each of the various components is discussed in detail 25 below.

Sterol The sterol component used in the present composi-tions may be selected from an~of the available animal or plant sterols. Preferably, the sterol is selected ; 30 from the group consisting of cholesterol, phytosterol, sitosterol, sitosterol pyroglutamate, 7-dehydrocholes-terol, lanosterol and mixtures thereof. The preferred sterol is cholesterol. The sterol is present at a level of from about 2.5 to about 8%, preferably from about 4 35 to 8~, by welght of the skin moisturizing fraction~
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Su~ar or Polyhydroxy Alcohol The sugar or polyhydroxy alcohol useful in the present compositions is selected from the ~roup cons~sting of C5 or C6 monosaccharides, C5 or C6 disaccharides, pentahy-5 droxy alcohols, he~ahydroxy alcohols and mixtures thereof.
Examples of suitable monosaccharides include arabinoses r ` xyloses, ribose, glucose, galactose! mannose and ~ructose. Suitable disaccharides include lactose, mal tose, gentiobiose, cellobiose and sucrose. Suitable 10 polyhydroxy alcohols include arabitol, xylitol, adonitol, -~ manni~ol, sorbitol and dulcitol. The sugar or polyhydroxy alcohol is present a~ a level of from about 10 to 35~, n,- a~erably from about 10 to 25%, by weight of the mois-Illrizing fraction. Sorbitol is the preferred sugar or 15 polyhydroxy alcohol.
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I,anolin Fatty Acids Lanolin fatty acids also, re~erred to as wool w~x ; acids, include a variety of different acids. ~. Motiuk, in the Journal Gf The American Oil Chemists' Society, ~0 Vol. 56, No. 2, Pages 91 - 97 (1979), reviewed the analyses which have been per-formed on lanolin fatty acids and developed an average composition. The acids, their chain lenyths and percent in the average composition are shown below.
Ac1ds C ain length Qo of lanolin Normal acids C -C 10 Iso acids 8 40 ~ 22 Anteiso acids C -C~ 28 Normal (~-hydroxy acids C10-C32 17 30 Iso ~ ydroxy acids C12 C34 9 Anteiso (~-hydroxy acics Cll-C33 3 - Normal ~.~-h~droxy acids C2 -C 3 Iso ~ hydroxy acids C222-C336 0.5 Anteiso ~\-hydroxy acids C -C
35 Polyhydroxy acids 23 35 4.5 Vnsatur;~ted acids 2 Total 100%
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' It should be recognized that the composition is an "average" composition and that the ac.ids as well as the amount of any particular type of acid in a particular batch may vary somewhat from the average. It should also be recognized that commercial lanol:in fatty acids may contain esters of the acids which are formed in the separation process infra. The percentages for the lanolin fatty acid component of the present compositions : include such esters.
Lanolin fatLy acids can be separated from lanolin .~ by saponification as described in Amerchol ~anolin De_ivatives Vol. II (1971) Amerchol a unit of CPC
;~ International Inc.
i;` Amerchol mar~ets lanolin faity acids under the names 'I~merlate LFA"and'~merlate WF'~." The lanolin fatty acids are present at a level of from about 5 to about 15%
preferably from about 8 to 12% by weight of the moisturiz-ing fraction~ `
~ ~ddi_ional Oil Soluble Moisturizin~ Components : ~ 20 The skin conditioning emulsion compositions of ~:~ the present invention may also contain emollient materials :. which help serve to moisturi~e the skin. Included in the list of acceptable ingredients are emollient/humec-tant ~gents such as hydrocarbon oils and waxes mono-gl~ceride esters triglyceride esters ac:etoglyceride esters ethox~lated gl~cerides alkyl esters alkenyl esters fatty alcohols f~tty acids other than the lanolin fattv acids fatt~ alcohol etherc fatty acid esters of ethox~lated fatt\~ alcoilols lanolin alcohols lanolin esters hydrox~lated lanolin deri.vatives poly-~ eth~r derivatives t pol~h~dric alcohol esters wax esters beeswax derivatives vegetable waxes phospholipids and : amides. Preferred types of emollient mat.erials are fatty alcohols containing from about 1~ to about 18 carbon ~ .
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'~ ' ` atoms such as lauryl, myristyl, cetyl and stearyl and the comparable acids, and fatty acid esters of aliphatic alcohols where said esters contain from about 10 to about 31 carbon atoms such as ethyl laurate, isopropyl 5 rry~istate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl behenate, isopropyl esters of lanolin ~atty acids and hexadecyl ` acetate.

Emulsifier An emulsifier is included as a part of the skin - 10 moisturizing fraction of -the pxesent compositions to emulsify the oil soluble components. Preferably, the emulsifier is present in an amount of from about 0.4~
to about 68~ by weight of the skin moisturizing frac-tion, more preferably from about 2 to about 22%.
15 The emulsifier may be any agent which will form an emul-sion with adequate stability The proper emulsifier can be easily selected by the skilled person by utilizing the information he would have about the oily materials pre-~- sent in the particular composition selected.
The preEerred emulsifiers useful in the present compositions are alkali metal or ethanolamine salts of fatty acids having from l~ to about 22 carbon atoms, alkali metal salts of sulfated fatt~ alcohols having from 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, glycerol esters, poly-25 oxyethylene ethers and esters, polyethoxylated fatty acids, sugar esters, polyoxyethylene fatty ether phos-phates, fatty acid amides, phospholipids, acyl lactylates and mixtures thereof. The most preferred emulsifiers include the alkali metal and ethanolamine soaps, the alkali metal salts of sulfated fatty alcohols, glycerol esters and polyoxethylene ethers arld esters.

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; .. ~ Examples of suitable emulsifiers include sodillm ~- ~ stearate, potassium stearate, glycerol monostearate, : sodium alkyl (C12) ether sulfate, polyoxyethylene (8) .~ stearate, polyoxyethylene (100) stearate, poly-5 oxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaura~.e, polyoxyethylene (2~ oleyl ether, sucrose distearate, sucrose laurate, . ~
t` lauric diethanolamide, lecithin, polyoxyethylene (10~
oleyl ether phosphate and ~alcium stearoyl-2-lactylate.
~ Water : : 10 Distilled water is preferably used in the compo-sitions of the present invention.
:~ Water Phase Components - _ ~
Many different water soluble materials may be present . in the compositions of this invention. For example:
~':".'1 a) Additional humectants, such as glycerine, propylene glycol, alkoxyl.ated glucose and - hexanetriol at a level of from about 1% to , about 20~ of the total compos-ition (the fol-` lowing percentages being on the same basis);
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b) Thickening agents such as carboxyvinyl polymers~ ethyl cellulose, polyvinyl alcohol, carboxymethyl cellulose, vegetable gums and clays such as Veegum ~3 (mag~.esium aluminum silicate, R.
; T. Vanderbilt, Inc.) at a level of from about ~5 0.0l~ to about 6%;
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; c) Proteins and polypeptides at a level of from about 0.1~ to about 3~; .
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d) Preservatives such as the methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl esters of hydroxybenzoic acid ~Parabens*- Mallinckrodt Chemical Corporati~) EDTA and imidazolidinyl ureas ~Germall 11~ -Sutton Laboratories) at a level of from about 0.~ to about 2.5~; and :' e~ An alkaline agent such as sodi~n~hydroxide or an amine to neutralize, if desired, part of the fatty acids or thickener which may be present.
' The present compositions may also contain agents ; suitable for aesthetic purposes such as perfumes and dyes. These ag~nts may be used in amounts sufficient to achieve the desired fragrance and color (e.g. from about 0.~5~ to about 1%).
The pH of the present compositions is preferably - in the range of about 4.5 - 9~0.

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Method of Man~facture .
The compositions of the present invention generally have a lotion consistency and may be in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions with the former being 5 preferred because of their more pleasing cosmetic pro-perties.
The compositions of the present invention are pre-ferably made by:
(A) preparing the oil phase;
(Bl preparing the water phase; and (C~ adding the oil phase to the water phase.
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Step (A) is carried out by heating the oil phase ma-teriaIs to a temperature of about 75C. to about 100C. Step (~) is carried out by heating the water 15 phase materials to a temperature about the same as that ~ of the oil phase. The emulsion is formed by slowly ,~ adding the oil phase prepared in step (A) to the water phase prepared in step (B) ~ith stirring. Other ingre-dients may be added to the phase in which they are solu-20 ble prior to the mixing of the ~wo phases or added ~-;v directly to the mixed water and oil phases.

Industrial Applicability -`~`;' The compositions of the present invention are useful in the skin care field generally but particularly in the area ; 25 of facial care.
' .. -~ The following examples further describe and demon-- strate the preferred embodiments within the scope of the present invention. Said examples are given solely for the purpose of illustration and are not to be construed 30 as limitations of the present invention, as many varia-tions thereof are possible without departing from the spirit and scope thereof. Unless otherwise indicated, all percentages herein are by weight.

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The following composition representative of the compositions of the present invention was prepared:
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Component %
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5 Isopropyl palmitate 2.87 Mineral Oil 2.00 Amerlate WFA~ (lanolin fatty acids) 1.92 OH Lan~ (hydroxylated l~nolin derivative 1.29 - high OH value) 10 Stearic Acid 1.00 - Cetyl Alcohol 1.72 Arlacel 165~ (glycerol monostearate and2 1.00 polyoxyethylene stearate) . ~ .
Oleyl Oleate 1.72 15 Cholesterol 1.00 Carbopol 934~ (polyvinyl polymer)3 0.20 Fructose 3.60 Triethanolamine 0.40 Methyl Paraben 0.20 -~ 20 Propyl Paraben 0.10 ~`; Titanium Dioxide 0.20 Perfume 0~03 Distilled Water 80.75 : 100.00%
25 1. Supplied by Amerchol, a u~ït of CPC International, Inc.

2. Supplied by ~tlas Chemicals, a division of ICI
.~merica, Inc.

3. Supplied by the B. F. Goodrich Company.

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EX~IPLE II
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: The following composition representative of the ~:: compositions of the present invention was prepared:
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Component %

~ :~ 5 Isopropyl palmitate 2.87 :~ Cetyl Alcohol 5.44 Stearic Acid 1.00 : O~ Lan~ 1.29 Arlacel 16 ~ 1.00 : 10 Amerlate WFA~ 1.92 :- Cholesterol 1.00 - : Carbopol 934~ 0.20 Sorbitol (70% aqueous solution) 5.14 :~,. Triethanolamine 0.40 : 15 Methyl Paraben 0.20 : Propyl Paraben 0.10 Titanium Dioxide 0.20 Perfume 0 03 Distilled Water 79.21 ~ 20 100.00%

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EXA~PLE III

The following composition representative of the ; compositions of the present invention was prepared:

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5 Isopropyl Palmitate 2.87 . ~ Mineral Oil5.01 Stearic Acid1.00 - Arlacel 16 ~1.00 Oleyl Oleate1.72 10 Amerlate ~FA~ 1.92 ~: Cholesterol 1.00 Carbopol 934~ 0.20 Sorbitol ~70% aqueous solution3 5.14 Triethanolamine ~ 0.40 ~ 15 Methyl Paraben : 0.20 : Propyl Paraben 0.10 Titanium`Dioxide 0.20 .: , Perfume 0:.03 ~: ~ Distilled Water ?3 - 2l . 20 100.00%

AIl of the compositîons delivered desirable skin conditioning while being easy to rub in and not leaving an undesirable greasy residue.

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Claims (10)

WHAT IS CLAIMED IS:

1. A skin conditioning composition comprising, by weight:

(A) from about 8 to about 25% of skin moisturiz-ing materials comprising (1) from about 0.4% to about 68% of an emulsifier;
(2) from about 2.5 to about: 8% of a sterol or mixture of sterols;
(3) from about 10 to about 35% of a sugar or polyhydroxy alcohol selected from the group consisting of C5 and C6 monosac-charides, C5 and C6 disaccharides, pentahydroxy alcohols, hexahydroxy alco-hols and mixtures thereof; and (4) from about 5 to about 15% of lanolin fatty acids; and (B) the remainder, water.

2. A skin conditioning composition according to Claim 1 in which additional oil soluble, skin moisturiz-ing materials are present as a part of the 8 to about 25% of skin moisturizing materials.

3. A skin conditioning composition according to Claim 1 in which the emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of alkali metal soaps, ethanolamine soaps, alkali metal salts of sulfated fatty alcohols having from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, glycerol esters,polyoxyethylene ethers and polyoxyethylene esters.

4. A skin conditioning composition according to Claim 3 in which the sterol is selected from the group consisting of cholesterol, phytosterol, sitosterol, sitostexol.pyroglutamate, 7-dehydrocholesterol lanosterol, and mixtures thereof.

5. A skin conditioning composition according to Claim 4 in which the sugar or polyhydroxy alcohol is selected from the group consisting of arabinose, xylose, ribose, glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose, lactose, maltose, gentiobiose, cellobiose, sucrose, arabitol, xylitol, adonitol, mannitol, sorbitol dulcitol, and mixtures thereof.

6. A skin conditioning composition according to Claim 5 in which the sterol is cholesterol.

7. A skin conditioning composition according to Claim 6 in which the sugar or polyhydroxy alcohol is sorbitol.

8. A skin conditioning composition according to Claim 7 which in addition contains from about 0.01 to about 6% of a thickening agent.

9. A skin conditioning composition according to Claim 8 in which the amount of emulsifier is from about 2 to about 22% of the amount of skin moisturizing materials.

10. A skin conditioning composition according to Claim 9 in which the amount of skin moisturizing materials is from about 12 to about 15% of which about 2.5 to about 4% is cholesterol, about 10 to about 25 is sorbitol, and about 8 to about 12% is lanolin fatty acids.