BRPI0911613B1 - HAIR CARE COMPOSITIONS. - Google Patents

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION Field of the Invention The present invention relates generally to hair compositions. More specifically, the invention relates to cosmetic compositions for improving color retention in artificially colored hair and / or for imparting film to hair with improved shine and feel.

Background of the Invention Consumers have used numerous cosmetics and personal care compositions to improve and / or modify the appearance of keratin fibers, such as hair. A popular modification is the fitting of an artificial color to the hair using a chemical pigment. For example, hair can be treated using a direct pigment or an oxidizing pigment, which is also known as a 'permanent' hair pigment, to obtain a desired color.

[003] It is known in technology that artificial hair colors, particularly red tones, obtained by treating hair with chemical pigments, rapidly discolor with repeated shampooing and washing. The chemical pigments used to color the hair tend to increase the pores of the hair's keratin fibers. Increased porosity provides a larger surface area and allows a greater flow of fluids (eg, water) through the hair fibers and thus increases the rate at which chemical pigment molecules are leached from the hair. Artificially colored hair may show substantial discoloration after just a few washes. Specifically, it has been shown that more than 20% of artificial hair color can be lost during the first five washes.

Most hair care products today (e.g., conditioner, hair gel, hair spray) are specifically formulated as hydrophilic compositions. Such hair care products can be easily removed using water, with or without the addition of shampoo, exposing the hair fibers to direct contact with water and thereby allowing chemical pigment molecules to be leached from the hair. For example, U.S. Patent No. 6,706,674 describes a hair styling composition comprising a vinyl copolymer and a non-aqueous solvent. The non-aqueous solvent may comprise a polyhydric C 2 -C 6 alcohol. It has been established that certain embodiments of the hair styling composition may comprise Triesteeste-aryl Trilinoleate as a viscosity control agent and / or a C 2-8 alkyldimethicone fluorine as an emollient.

Recent advances to increase color retention and / or reduce discoloration of artificially colored hair have included the use of color protection agents. Typically, such color protection agents may be incorporated into hair care compositions by emulsifying, dissolving or otherwise made to be compatible with such hair care product compositions. Color protecting agents may include mild surfactants, cationic conditioning agents, aminofunctional silicones, ultraviolet absorbers, starch or sugar surfactants.

For example, U.S. Patent No. 5,922,310 describes a composition for preventing artificial hair pigment discoloration and / or decreasing hair oxidation comprising a cationic antioxidant phenol.

U.S. Patent Nos. Nos. 6,129,909 and 6,180,091 describe a hair care composition comprising a naphthylene dicarboxylic acid diester or polyester to impart shine and / or stabilization of hair color. It has been established that naphthalene dicarboxylic acid can be mixed in an aqueous phase of the hair care composition to impart better photostabilizing properties.

US Patent No. 5,045,307 describes a method of treating dyed hair to reduce color loss caused by exposure to the sun's ultraviolet rays by applying an effective amount of a hair treatment formulation comprising an effective amount of A water-insoluble benzophenone compound that easily combines with a substantive hair carrier composition.

US Patent No. 6,143,286 describes hair conditioning compositions comprising a cationic conditioning agent, a fatty alcohol, a nonionic surfactant, and a particular siloxane polymer having both difunctional and trifunctional units, in one embodiment. ratio of about 10 to 80 difunctional units for each trifunctional unit.

U.S. Patent Specification 2005/0188481 describes a composition comprising at least one amylose starch, and its use in extending or improving the durability and stability of artificially colored hair color.

[011] Numerous hair pigment manufacturers have incorporated color-protective agents in “color-fixing” conditioners to be used after the first shampooing of newly colored artificially colored hair. However, using such a conditioner cannot provide greater color retention and / or less discoloration during the first shampoo wash. During the first shampooing, freshly colored hair is not protected from water or shampoo. Therefore, a noticeable amount of the chemical pigment molecules can be leached from the hair at this time, causing artificially freshly colored hair to undergo a substantial amount of discolouration before a color protection agent is applied.

Despite advances in color protection agents, there remains a need in the art to increase color retention and / or reduce the discoloration of artificially colored hair. It is therefore an object of an invention to provide compositions and methods for imparting greater color retention and less discoloration to artificially colored hair.

Summary of the Invention In accordance with the objectives set forth, and others, the present invention provides hair care compositions that impart better color retention or less discoloration to artificially colored hair.

In one aspect of the invention, hair care compositions are provided for improving color retention in dyed hair comprising at least two and preferably all three of (i) a silicone polyurethane polymer, (s) a forming ester. and (iii) a fluorsicone, in a suitable vehicle. In various embodiments, the silicone polyurethane is a Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethic / SMDi copolymer, and / or the film-forming ester is Triisoostearyl Trilinoleate and / or the fluorsilicone is Perfluornonil Di-Methicone. The carrier is preferably one in which the silicone polyurethane polymer, film-forming ester, and fluorsilicone are dispersible but not soluble. An example of such a vehicle is an aqueous system comprising water and a thickener, such as a cationic thickener.

In yet another aspect of the invention, there is provided a method for improving color retention of artificially colored hair comprising applying to dyed hair any of the inventive compositions. The compositions may be applied to wet or dry hair, may be applied immediately after the sham, before the first shampoo, or even after the first, second, or third shampoo, yet providing a resistance measurable against discoloration.

These and other aspects of the present invention will be apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading the following detailed description of the invention, including illustrative embodiments and examples.

Detailed Description In the following description of the invention, it should be understood that the terms used have their ordinary and customary meaning in the art, unless otherwise specified. All weight percentages referred to herein are given in terms of "% by weight" of the total composition, unless otherwise indicated.

[018] The term "hair" refers to any body hair, including scalp hair, eyelashes, mustache, beard and the like. In preferred practice, the compositions are applied to scalp hair.

[019] The present invention is based in part on the discovery that the Triisoestearyl Trilinoleate film-forming ester provides robust water and surfactant resistant films, particularly in combination with a silicone and / or fluorosilicone polyurethane polymer. . The inventive combination provides effective color retention and less discoloration of artificially colored hair, particularly after repeated shampooing. Additionally, this combination gives a desirable touch to the hair.

The preferred composition generally comprises a combination of a silicone polyurethane polymer, a film formation, hydrophobic ester, and a fluorsilicone which is preferably both hydrophobic and oleophobic. This novel combination has been observed to increase color retention and / or decrease discoloration of artificially colored hair.

Without wishing to be bound by any theory, it is believed that the inventive combination forms water resistant films on keratin fibers that serve as protective barriers against water and / or shampoo and improves retention of pigment molecules in artificially colored hair. . Water-resistant films cannot easily be removed with water alone or with shampoo, thus slowing down the rate at which chemical pigment molecules are leached from the hair.

The inventive compositions are contemplated to impart improved color retention and / or less discoloration of artificially colored hair over any range of relative proportions of silicone polyurethane polymer (a) to ester (b) to fluorsilicone (c) , whose ratio is represented by a: b: c. Typically, a, b and c independently range from about 1 to about 50, more typically from about 1 to about 25, and usually from about 1 to about 10. Preferably, a, b, and c vary independently from about 1 to about 25. 1 to about 5, more preferably from about 1 to about 3, and even more preferably from about 1 to about 2, including a weight ratio of ester to fluorsilicone polyurethane polymer of about 1: 1: 1 to about 10: 1: 10, more typically from about 1: 1: 1 to about 5: 1: 5, and usually about 1: 1: 1.

The combination of the three major components is believed to achieve unseen benefits with each component individually or with otherwise identical compositions without the silicone polyurethane polymer, ester or fluorsilicone.

A first component according to some embodiments of the inventive compositions is a silicone polyurethane polymer. There is essentially no restriction on the nature of the silicone polyurethane polymer, and any polymer comprising organosiloxane units and urethane bonds is contemplated for use in the practice of the invention.

[025] In one embodiment, the silicone polyurethane polymer will be the reaction product of a hydroxyl functionalized polyorganosiloxane, preferably containing two or more hydroxyl groups, with a diisocyanate moiety. The hydroxyl functionalized polyorganosiloxane will typically have the structure of formula I: wherein R is independently selected at each occurrence of hydrogen, hydroxy, and optionally substituted hydrocarbon groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and in particular from optionally substituted alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, alkyl aryl, or aryl alkyl groups; preferably R is selected from optionally substituted straight branched chain or C1-6 cyclic alkyl or alkenyl groups including, but not limited to, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, t-butyl, amyl, hexyl, cyclohexyl xyl, vinyl, allyl, and the like or aryl, alkylaryl, or arylC 1-8 alkyl groups, including, but not limited to, phenyl, benzyl, tolyl, xylyl and the like;

Wherein each of the foregoing R groups may include optional substitution for one or more heteroatoms, including oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, and particularly fluorine halogen, as exemplified by fluoralkyl (including perfluoroalkyl) groups such as mono-, di-, and tri-fluoromethyl, perfluorphenyl, and the like, amino-substituted C1-6 alkyl groups, including those having the form - (CH2) i-6-NRn2 and - (CH2) i-6-NRn- (CH2) wherein RN is typically hydrogen, but may be methyl, ethyl, propyl, and the like; polyether groups including, but not limited to, polyethylene oxide groups of the form - (CH2CH20) n-, polypropylene oxide groups of the form - (CH (CH3) CH20) n- and combinations thereof; and amine oxide, phosphate, hydroxyl, ester, and / or carboxylate functionalities, and the like; or wherein R may comprise an additional group -L-OH;

Wherein L represents both a bond and a linker group; preferably L is a binder selected from the group of divalent hydrocarbons having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, including divalent alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, alkylaryl, or arylalkyl groups, as exemplified by C1-6 alkyl groups, including, but without limitation, divalent groups of the form - (CH 2) mo -, preferably - (CH 2) 1-6, and more preferably, L is -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -; and wherein n is an integer from 0 to 5,000, preferably from 1 to 200, more preferably from 10 to 100, and most preferably from 10 to 50. Preferably R represents methyl at least one or more occurrences, more preferably R represents methyl at all or substantially all occurrences, which means that R represents methyl at occurrences greater than 90%, 95% or 98%.

In one embodiment according to the invention, the hydroxyl functionalized polyorganosiloxane prepolymer comprises a polymethylsiloxane, and has the structure of formula Ia: wherein L and n are as previously defined. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hydroxy-functionalized pyranosoxyoxane is Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethyl-na, which comprises a polymethylsiloxane, and has the structure of formula Ib: wherein n is as defined above.

The diisocyanate will be of the form 0 = C = N-R 1 -N N = C = 0, where R 1 is a divalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, including optional substitution with one or more heteroatoms, and in particular R1 will be selected from the optionally substituted cyclic alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, alkylaryl or arylalkyl groups optionally substituted, including but not limited to: (i) a group of the form: { (ii) a group of the form: (iii) a group of the form: {ivj a group of the form: {vj a group of the form: and combinations thereof.

Suitable DHSodanates include, without limitation, cyclohexylmethoxy-4,4'-diisocyanate (SMDI); toluene diisocyanate; difensile methylene diisocyanate, including 2,2'-MDI, 2,4'-MDI and 4,4'-MDI; 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate; isophorone diisocyanate; methylene dicycloexyl diisocyanate; xylene diisocyanate; cyclohexane diisocyanate; 3,3'-di methyl-4,4'-diphenyl diisocyanate; p-phenylene diisocyanate; m-phenylene diisocyanate; 4,4'-isopropylidene dicycloexyl isocyanate; and the like. In a preferred embodiment, the diisocyanate will comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of SMDI.

The polyorganosiloxane polyurethane polymer will comprise repeated units derived from hydroxyl functionalized polyorganosiloxane and diisocyanate as an alternate copolymer AB, wherein unit A has the structure of formula II: wherein R, L and n are as defined. with respect to Formula I, Ia and Ib, and wherein unit B has the structure of formula III: wherein R1 is as previously defined, and wherein units A and B are arranged in a linear configuration, branched or cyclic.

When the polymer is a cyclic polymer, it can be represented as: where z is an integer value from 2 to 2,000. Where the polyorganosiloxane polyurethane polymer is cyclic, the propagation of the polymer is self-sustaining. However, in the case of a linear polymer, termination can be performed, for example, by allowing the polymerization reaction to run to completion, employing a stoichiometric excess of dihydrothil polyiorganosiloxane of formula I over diisocyanate, ending with the reaction with a monoalcohol or an amine, for example a dialkyl amine, including in the reaction mixture amounts of monofunctional reagents such as monohydroxylpiorganosiloxane analogs of formula I, and / or isocyanate reagents or any other suitable method to terminate the urethane polymerization reaction. Thus, polyorganosiloxane polymers may have a variety of terminating groups, including, but not limited to, hydroxyl groups, including the -L-OH group, tri-alkylsilyl groups, including trimethylsilyl, hydrocarbons such as linear, alkyl or aryl groups branched or cyclic which may be amines, cabinol, silanols and the like.

The polymer may also include branching or grafting points on the polyorganosiloxane wherein one or more R groups in Formula I or II is a group such as: wherein R is as defined by Formula I and FT may represent an -LO- group further coupling the side chain with a unit B of formula III, which may in turn be additionally coupled to unit A of formula II, and so on, or R * may represent -L-OH, a group R, as previously defined, or a terminating group. When the polyorganosiloxane comprises branched or graft points of this type, it may be present as T-type or Q-type branches or grafts, wherein T denotes that only one R group on an Si atom is a polyorganosiloxane chain in the manner shown above and Q denotes whereas both G-R groups are polyorganosiloxanes. These types of polyorganosiloxane compounds are referred to as T-resin or Q-resin, branched or grafted polyurethane polyorganosiloxane copolymer.

Polyorganosiloxane polyurethane polymers may also be prepared from functionalized isocyanate prepolymers. For example, a prepolymer isocyanate may be a disorganized polyorganosiloxane isocyanate. or multifunctional, such as the polyorganosiloxane diisocyanate shown below in Formula IV: wherein R, R 1 and L are as previously defined and wherein x is an integer from 0 to 5,000, preferably from 1 to 200, more preferably from 10 to 100, and even more preferably from 10 to 50. The prepolymer may be multifunctional by also introducing groups with additional isocyanate into one or more R groups. The isocyanate-functionalized polyorganosiloxane prepolymer reacts with a prepolymer of Formula I or a multifunctional analog thereof. The prepolymer according to Formula IV will typically have a molecular weight ranging from about 4,000 to about 15,000 Daltons. The prepolymer according to Formulas I, Ia and Ib will typically have a molecular weight ranging from about 250 to about 15,000 Daltons.

In a presently preferred embodiment, the polyorganosiloxane polyurethane polymer for use in the hair care compositions of the invention is a copolymer comprising the reaction product of formula Ib with a saturated methylene diphenyl diisocyanate (SMDI). An exemplary silicone polyurethane polymer is Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone / SMDI (INCI) copolymer.

A second component according to some embodiments of the inventive compositions is a high molecular weight hydrophobic ester which can form a water resistant hydrophobic film on the hair. The hydrophobic ester may be saturated or unsaturated and may include, without limitation, fatty acid monoesters, diacid diesters, triacid diesters and triacid triesters. Monoesters include straight-chain, branched or cyclic C4-C24 esterifications, preferably C8-C24, and more preferably straight-chain, C4-C36 straight, branched or cyclic, preferably C8-C36 monocarboxylic acids C 24, and more preferably C 12 -C 18 alcohols. Diesters include esterification products of straight-chain, branched C4-C48 dicarboxylic acids or typically C8-C44 dicarboxylic acids, and more typically C12-C36, straight-chain, branched, or C4-C36 cyclic dicarboxylic acids, preferably C 8 -C 24, and more preferably C 12 -C 28 alcohols. Dicarboxylic acid may be, for example, a dimer acid formed by dimerizing an unsaturated fatty alcohol, for example linoleic acid. Triacid diesters and triesters include the esterification products of C6-C72 tricarboxylic acids, typically C12-C66 tricarboxylic acids, with C4-C36, preferably C8-C24, and most preferably C12-C18 alcohols. Tricarboxylic acid may be, for example, a trimer acid formed by the trimerization of an unsaturated fatty alcohol, for example linoleic acid.

The esters are preferably high molecular weight esters which means that the molecular weight is at least 500. In some embodiments, the molecular weight of the ester will be at least 750, at least 1,000, or at least 1,200. The esters are preferably hydrophobic. In the practice of the preferred invention, the ester will disperse but will not solubilize in the vehicle.

A suitable hydrophobic ester is Triisoostearyl Trilinoleate (INCI) (CAS Registry No. 103213-22-5), which is from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. Under the trademark SCHERCEMOL ™ TIST Ester.

A third component according to some embodiments of the inventive compositions is a fluorsilicone, which can impart excellent spreading properties. Fluorsilicone is preferably hydrophobic and oleophobic and is also preferably insoluble but dispersible in the carrier. There is essentially no restriction on the nature of fluorsilicone. In one embodiment, the fluorsilicone will comprise a fluorine substituted polyorganosiloxane. The fluorsilicone will typically comprise repeated units of the form - [Si (R2) (R3) -0] - wherein R2 and / or R3 are independently alkyl, aryl, or alkylaryl (e.g. benzyl) radicals, with at least one of R2 and R3 being substituted with one or more fluorine atoms. Preferably at least one of Rs or R3 will be a C1.30 alkyl group comprising one or more fluorine atoms, and preferably comprising a perfluoride segment, which means a segment of the form - (CF ') * - wherein x is an integer from 1 to 29 and / or a trifluoromethyl group.

A preferred fluorsilicone has the following general structure of formula V: wherein m is an integer from 1 to 5,000, preferably from 1 to 200, more preferably from 10 to 100, and even more preferred from 10 to 50; wherein n is an integer from 0 to 4,999, preferably from 1 to 200, more preferably from 10 to 100, and even more preferably from 10 to 50; and where x is an integer from 0 to 12. A suitable fluorsilicone is Perfluornonil Dimethicone sold under the trademarks PECOSIL® FSL-150, FSL-300, FSH-150, FSH-300, FSU-150 and FSU-300 by Phoenix Chemical, Inc. all have chemical abstract numbers CAS 259725-95-6.

[G50] The inventive hair care compositions will comprise a cosmetically acceptable carrier. “Cosmetically acceptable means that the vehicle is safe to contact with a human casing. It is contemplated that any cosmetically acceptable vehicle known in the art will be used. The carrier may comprise water or hydrophobic or hydrophilic organic solvents. Suitable hydrophilic solvents include, but are not limited to, alcohols (e.g., ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol, etc.), propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerine, carbitol, glycol ethers. such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol and diethylene glycol alkyl ethers such as, for example, diethylene glycol or monobutyl ether and / or any combination thereof. Water is a preferred vehicle component. Typically, the amount of water in the vehicle is from about 20% to about 99%, more typically from about 60% to about 95% by weight.

Suitable hydrophobic carriers include hydrocarbon oils which may be saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic in character and straight or branched chain or contain alicyclic or aromatic rings. Essentially, any oil is contemplated for use, although highly hydrophobic oils are preferred. Suitable non-limiting examples include vegetable oils; esters such as octyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate and isopropyl palmitate; ethers such as dicaprylic ether; fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and beenyl alcohol; isoparaffins such as that-octane, isododecane and isoexadecane; silicone oils such as dimethicones, cyclic silicones and polysiloxanes; hydrocarbon oils such as mineral oil, petrolatum, isoeicosane and polyisobutene; natural or synthetic waxes; and the like.

Suitable hydrophobic hydrocarbon oils may be saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic in character and straight or branched chain or contain alicyclic or aromatic rings. Hydrocarbon oils include those having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 16 carbon atoms. Representative hydrocarbons include decane, dodecane, tetradecane, tridecane and Ce-2o isoparaffins. Paraffin hydrocarbons are available from Exxon under the trademark ISOPARS and from Permetil Corporation. In addition, Cs-20 paraffinic hydrocarbons such as C12 isoparaffin (isododecane) manufactured by Permetil Corporation having the Permetil 99A ™ trademark are also contemplated as suitable. Various commercially available C16 isoparaffins, such as isoexadecane (bearing the Permetil R ™ trademark) are also suitable. Examples of preferred volatile hydrocarbons include polydecanes such as isododecane and isodane, including, for example, Permethyl-99A (Presperse Inc.) and C7-C8 through C12-C15 isoparaffins such as Isopar Series available from Exxon Chemicals. A representative hydrocarbon solvent is isododecane.

[053] The vehicle may comprise a silicone oil phase which may include volatile silicone oils, non-volatile silicone oils and combinations thereof. Volatile silicone oil means that the oil evaporates easily at ambient temperatures. Typically, volatile silicone oils will have a vapor pressure ranging from about 1 Pa to about 2 kPa at 25 ° C; preferably have a viscosity of from about 0.1 to about 10 centistokes, preferably about 5 centistokes or less, more preferably about 2 centistokes or less at 25 ° C; and will boil at atmospheric pressure at from about 35 ° C to about 250 ° C.

Volatile silicones include linear and cyclic volatile dimethylsiloxane silicones.

In one embodiment, volatile silicones may include cyclodimethicones, including tetramer (D4), pentamer (D5) and hexamer (D6) cyclome-ticones, or mixtures thereof. Particular mention may be made of volatile cyclomethicone-hexamethyl cyclotrisiloxane, octamethyl-cyclotetrasiloxane and decamethyl-cyclopentasiloxane. Suitable dimethicone polymers are available from Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 200® Fluid and have viscosities ranging from 0.65 to 600,000 centistokes or greater. Suitable nonpolar volatile liquid silicone oils are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 4,781,917, incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Additional volatile silicone materials are described in Todd et al., "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics", Cosmetics and Toiletries, 91: 27-32 (1976), incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Linear volatile silicones generally have a viscosity of less than about 5 centistokes at 25 ° C, whereas cyclic silicones have viscosities of less than about 10 centistokes at 25 ° C. Examples of volatile silicones of varying viscosities include Dow Corning 200, Dow Corning 244, Dow Corning 245, Dow Corning 344, and Dow Corning 345, (Dow Corning Corp.); SF-1204 and SF-1202 Silicone Fluids (G.E. Silicones), GE 7207 and 7158 (General Electric Co.); and SWS-03314 (SWS Silicones Corp.). Linear volatile silicones include low molecular weight polydimethylsiloxane compounds such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and do-decamethylpentasiloxane to name a few.

Non-volatile silicone oils will typically comprise polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsyloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, or mixtures thereof. Polydimethylsiloxanes are preferred nonvolatile silicone oils. Nonvolatile silicone oils will typically have a viscosity of from about 10 to about 60,000 centistokes at 25 ° C, preferably from about 10 to about 10,000 centistokes, and even more preferably from about 10 to about 500 centistokes; and a boiling point greater than 250 ° C at atmospheric pressure. Non-limiting examples include dimethyl polysiloxane (dimethicone), phenyl trimethicone and diphenyldimethicone.

[056] The vehicle may comprise a single phase, a double phase system, or an emulsion. Emulsions include oil in water, silicone in water, water in oil, water in silicone and the like. When formulated as an emulsion, an emulsifier is typically included. Where the product should be as a spray, it may be desirable to employ a single phase vehicle, or a dual phase vehicle comprising an aqueous phase and an oil phase, the oil phase comprising a silicone oil. Alternatively, it is contemplated that the carrier may be anhydrous. The anhydrous carrier preferably comprises a silicone oil. It should be understood that the term "anhydrous" as used herein typically refers to a composition comprising at most 5% water, more typically to a composition comprising at most 1% water, and usually a composition comprising an amount of water absorbed from ambient conditions.

[057] In one embodiment, the inventive combination of a silicone polyurethane polymer, film-forming ester and fluorsilicone is dispersible but not soluble in the vehicle. It has been unexpectedly observed that hair color discoloration is noticeably retarded when the combination is formulated in an incompatible vehicle as compared to an otherwise identical vehicle in which the combination is more compatible. Without being bound by any theory, it is believed that phase separation provides better deposition of the inventive combination on hair keratin fibers and thereby improves the coverage of water-resistant films formed thereafter that serve as protective barriers against water and water. / or shampoo.

In a preferred embodiment, the vehicle is a thick aqueous system comprising water and a thickener. The thickener may be nonionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric. Preferably, the thickener is a cationic thickener, including, but not limited to, cationic conditioning polymers. Suitable cationic polymers include, but are not limited to, cationized cellulose, cationized guar gum, diallyl salt / acrylamide quaternary ammonium copolymers, polyquaternium-37 and mixtures thereof. Among the various cationic thickeners, special mention may be made of polyquaternium-37 (INCI).

Other suitable thickeners may include, for example, acrylic acid homopolymers (sold under the trademark CARBOPOL® by Lubrizol Corp.), C10-30 alkyl acrylate / acrylate cross-linked polymer (available under the trademarks CARBOPOL® 1342 and 1382; and PEMULINS® TR-1 and TR-2 by BF Goodrich), Itaconate Steareth-20 acrylates / copolymer (available under the trademark STRUCTURE® 2001 by National Amido), Itaconate Ceteth-20 acrylates / copolymer (available under the trademark STRUCTURE® 3001 by National Amido), bentonite, Decadiene PVM / MA crosslinked polymer, which is a crosslinked methylvinylether / maleic anhydride copolymer with 1,9 decadiene (commercially available under the trademark STABILEZE® QM by International Specialties Products), steareth-20 acrylate / methacrylate copolymer (sold under the trademark ACRYSOL ™ ICS-1 by Rohm and Haas Co.), acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer ( sold under the trademark HOSTACERIN® PN 73 by Hoecsht AG), acrylate copolymer (sold under the ANTIL 208 trademark by Goldschmidt), acrylic acid / acrylonitrogen copolymer (sold under the trademarks HYPAN® SA-100H, SR-150H supplied by Lipo), acrylic acid / acrylate copolymer (sold under the trademarks CARBOSET® 5,514, 515, 525, XL-19, XL-19X2, X1-28, XL-40, 526 by BF Goodrich), copolymer of Ammonium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens (sold under the trademark HYPAN® SS-201 by Lipo), Quater-nium-18 Bentonite, which is a cross-linked poly (acrylic acid) sodium salt (sold under the trademarks PNC 430 , PNC 410, PNC 400 by 3V), Stearalquonium Bentonite (sold under the trademark CLAYTON® by Southern Clay Products), Quaternium-18 Hecto-rite (Bentone 38), Stearalquonium Hectorite (Bentone 27), Poly (Acrylic Acid) ( sold under the trademarks CARBOPOL® 400 by BF and AQUATREAT® by Alco), tri-idroxies loomin (commercially available under the trademark TIXICIN® by Rheox and FLOWTONE ™ by Southern Clay Products), methacrylamide and acrylamide dimethylaminoethyl copolymer (SALCARE® SC63 by Ciba Specialties), anionic or cationic acrylic polymer thickening agents (sold under the brand name) registered by SYNTHALEN ™ by 3V), cross-linked Polyacrylate-1 (INCI) (sold under the trademark CARBOPOL® Aqua CC by Lubrizol Corp.), sodium acrylate copolymer (sold under the trademark TINOVIS® ADM by Ciba) and acid Polyacriaidomethylpropane Sulfonic (sold under the trademark Cosmedia HSP-1180 by Cognis Care Chemicals).

The thickener preferably comprises from about 0.001 to about 25%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%, and even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight. vehicle.

The silicone polyurethane polymer, film-forming ester, and fluorsilicone will collectively comprise from about 1% to about 50% by weight of the total composition including the carrier. More typically, silicone polyurethane polymer, film-forming ester, and fluorosilicone will collectively comprise from about 1% to about 25% by weight, or from about 1% to about 10% by weight of the total composition including the carrier. .

The compositions of the invention may optionally comprise other active and inactive ingredients typically associated with care of hair products. The nature of these other ingredients and their amounts should preferably be suitable for formulating a stable hair care product which forms a hydrophobic film on the keratin fibers. Preferably, these other ingredients include at least one bioactive ingredient for improving keratin fiber. Those skilled in the art should choose additional active and / or inactive ingredients for a hair care product. Other suitable ingredients include, but are not limited to, amino acids, antioxidants, chelating agents, colorants, emollients, emulsifiers, excipients, fillers, fragrances, gelling agents, humectants, minerals, humectants, photostabilizing agents (e.g. UV absorbers), preservatives, stabilizers , staining agents, surface active agents, viscosity and / or rheology modifiers, vitamins, waxes and mixtures thereof. It is contemplated that the inventive hair care product of the present invention may also include anti-dandruff, sunscreen and / or antiperspirant ingredients.

The compositions may be in any suitable manner, including, but not limited to, gels, creams, liquids, emulsions, sprays and the like.

[064] The present invention provides a method for improving color retention and / or reducing discoloration of artificially colored hair comprising applying to a keratin fiber a hair care composition having a combination of a silicone polyurethane polymer, a film-forming ester, and a fluorsilicone in a suitable vehicle. However, the invention is not limited to application to artificially colored hair. The methods and composition may be applied to any hair (whether dyed or not) to impart a water resistant film on the keratin fiber.

[065] The hair care composition of the present invention may be applied to wet or dry hair at any time after artificially coloring the hair using chemical pigments. Preferably, the hair care composition is applied to the hair after it has been artificially colored, but before the first wash. More preferably, the hair care composition is applied to the hair immediately after artificially coloring the hair with chemical pigments. However, significant benefits will be obtained even if the composition is applied to the hair after the first shampoo, or even after the second or third shampoo. What's more, the hair care makeup can be re-applied at any time as the consumer wishes. In one embodiment, the hair care composition may be re-applied to the hair prior to each wash.

Although the presently preferred embodiments of the inventive formulations comprise all three components (silicone polyurethane, ester and fluorsilicone), the invention is not limited thereto. In some embodiments the inventive compositions will comprise two of these three components. Thus, the following combinations are considered within the scope of the invention: hydrophobic silicone polyurethane ester; silicone and fluorosilicone polyurethane; and hydrophobic and fluorsilicone ester. These compositions may comprise the two components in weight ratios of from about 10: 1 to about 1:10, or from about 5: 1 to about 1: 5, or from about 2: 1 to about 1: 2, or about 1: 1. In some embodiments, it is believed that the two component combinations will confer at least one improvement in the color retention additive, and preferably a synergistic improvement.

Example I

Compositions comprising a high molecular weight, silicone ester polyurethane polymer and fluorsilicone in a 1: 1: 1 weight ratio were prepared according to Table 1 wherein the vehicle was both (i) and the system oil in water emulsion as (ii) and the aqueous system comprising polyquaternium-37 thickened water.

Table 1 Color retention of artificially colored hair treated with the hair care compositions comprised each vehicle. Hair samples were treated with a chemical pigment having red hues to give an artificial hair color and then treated with the inventive composition. The hair samples were then washed with a commercial shampoo product sold under the name ADVANCED TECHNIQUES ™ (Avon Products, Inc.) and rinsed with water. The treatment, wash and rinse cycles were repeated fifteen (15) times. Color retention was notably better for hair samples treated with the thickened cationic aqueous based composition compared to oil-in-water emulsion.

Example II

[069] The effect of adding Triestearyl Trilinoleate (INCI), a high molecular weight hydrophobic ester, in combination with a silicone polyurethane / or a fluorosilicon in a hair care composition has been investigated for hair color retention. dyed treated with the hair care composition. Compositions were prepared according to Table 2 wherein the vehicle was either (i) a conventional hair conditioner composition (Vehicle A); (ii) an aqueous system comprising water thickened with a cationic compound (Vehicle B), while (iii) a biphasic system comprising water and a silicone oil (Vehicle C), Table 2. hair were prepared according to Table 3 below.

Table 3 The color retention of artificially treated colored hair with the hair care compositions comprising each vehicle was examined using the test protocol described below. Color Retention Test Method [072] Hair samples were treated with a commercial chemical CLAIROL HYDRIENCE ™, Ruby Twilight 3RR (Procter & Gamble) or LOREAL PREFERENCE Medium Brown (LOreal) pigment according to the manufacturer's instructions. Each hair sample was rinsed under running hot water for 5 minutes. Each hair sample was wiped dry to remove most of the moisture retained. Using a pieta, 0.5 mL of a hair care composition was placed in the hair sample and fully distributed by hand by repeated downward movements. The hair sample was naturally air dried at room temperature for 72 hours. Each hair sample was then washed, rinsed, treated and dried a total of fifteen (15) times.

Each time, the hair sample is first rinsed in running hot water at a temperature between 100 to 110 $ F (38 to 43 ° C) for 30 seconds. Excess water from the hair samples was manually removed by squeezing the hair samples between the middle and index fingers.

To wash each hair sample 0.5 ml of a commercial shampoo is applied to the hair sample using a pipette. The shampoo is manually distributed throughout the hair sample by applying repeated downward movements for 30 seconds. The shampooed hair sample is placed in running hot water at a temperature of 100 to 11 ° F (38 to 43 ° C) and rinsed for 30 seconds. Excess water from the hair sample was manually removed by squeezing the hair samples between the middle and index fingers. Using a pipette, 0.5 mL of a hair care composition was placed into the hair sample and fully distributed manually by repeated downward movements.

[075] The hair sample treated with the hair care composition was allowed to air dry in an oven at an elevated temperature of 120SF (49 ° C) until all residual moisture in the hair sample was evaporated. Once the hair sample has been dried, the hair sample is repeatedly subjected to rinsing, washing, rinsing, treatment and drying for an additional fourteen (14) times.

[076] The color retention of each hair sample is visually assessed by comparison with a control hair sample, which is an artificially colored hair sample with the same commercial chemical pigment as per manufacturer's instruction, not treated with any other hair care compositions, not subjected to repeated washing and drying. The results are shown below in Table 4. Hair samples treated with hair care compositions that clearly provide color retention of dyed hair are represented in Table 4 with two asterisks ("" "), whereas hair samples treated with hair care compositions that provide some color retention are represented with an asterisk (“*”).

The results indicate that Triisoostearyl Trilinoleate in combination with a fluorsilicone, specifically Perfluornonil Dimethicone, in a conventional hair conditioner composition acts synergistically to increase the color retention of dyed hair treated with said hair conditioner composition. As shown in Table 4, the combination of 2% by weight of Triisoostearyl Trilinoleate and Perfluornonil Dimethicone (e.g., Sample 9) in Vehicle A provides superior color retention than the addition of Triisoestearyl Trilinoleate, in the absence of a fluorosilicone. and the addition of Perfluoronyl Dimethicone in the absence of a high molecular weight hydrophobic ester. As can be seen from the results in Table 4, the addition of up to 5% by weight of Triisoostearyl Trilinoleate to Vehicle A in the absence of a fluorsilicone (Samples 1 and 4) does not provide any noticeable improvements in hair color retention. artificial. Similarly, the addition of up to 5% by weight Perfluornonil Dimethicone to Vehicle A in the absence of a high molecular weight hydrophobic ester (Samples 3 and 6) also provides no visible improvement in artificial hair color retention.

[078] A lower threshold value of Triisoostearyl Trilinoleate may be required when the combination of Triisoestearyl Trilinoleate and a fluorsilicone is used with an aqueous system comprising water thickened with a cationic compound. The results show that addition as low as 1% by weight of Triisoostearyl Trilinoleate in combination with Perfluornonil Dimethicone (Samples 8 and 9) in an aqueous system comprising thickened water with a cationic compound (Vehicle B) provided visible improvements in color retention. of artificial hair colors. In contrast, the addition of up to 5% by weight of Triisostearyl Trilinoleate in Vehicle B in the absence of a fluorsilicone (Samples 1 and 4) does not provide any noticeable improvements in artificial hair color retention. The addition of Perfluornonil Dimethicone to Vehicle B, in the absence of a high molecular weight hydrophobic ester, provided visible improvements for color retention only when the amount of Perfluornonil Dimethicone was increased to 5%. Therefore, the results show that in Vehicle B, the combination of Triisoostearyl Trilinoleate and a Fluorsilicone is at least additive, if not synergistic, and that there is a low threshold value of Triisoestearyl Trilinoleate required for a visible color retention effect. .

Claims (13)

1. A method for improving color retention of artificially colored hair. A method comprising improving the application to hair, after being artificially colored, but prior to a first shampooing, of a composition comprising: (i) a polymer of silicone polyurethane comprising bis-hydroxypropyl di-methicone / dicyclohexyl methane -4,4'-diicitrate SMDI (INCI) copolymer, (ii) a film-forming ester comprising a tri-ester of a C 6 -C 12 tricarboxylic acid with a C 8 -C 12 branched alcohol; (iii) fluorsilicone, and (iv) a vehicle; wherein said silicone polyurethane polymer, said film-forming ester and said fluorsilicone are dispersible but not soluble in said carrier; and wherein said vehicle comprises water and a cationic thickener. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that said composition comprises 1 to 5 parts of said silicone polyurethane polymer, 1 to 5 parts of said film-forming ester and 1 to 5 parts of said said fluorsilicone, on a weight basis. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the weight ratio of silicone polyurethane polymer to film-forming ester to fluorsilicone is 1: 1: 1, Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the molecular weight of said film-forming ester is greater than 1,000. A method according to claim 4, characterized in that said film-forming ester is Triisoostearyl Trilinoleate (INCI). A method according to claim 1, wherein said fluorosilicone has the structure: wherein m is an integer from 1 to 5,000, where n is an integer from 0 to 4,999, and wherein x is an integer from 0 to 12. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the fluor silicone comprises Perfluornonyl Dimethicone (INCI). Method according to claim 1, characterized in that said cationic thickener is Polyquaternium-37 (INCI). A method according to claim 1, characterized in that said silicone polyurethane polymer, said film-forming ester and said fluorine cone collectively comprise from 1% to 20% by weight of the composition. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that said silicone polyurethane polymer, said film-forming ester and said fluorine cone collectively comprise from 1% to 10% by weight of the composition. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that said composition is reapplied to the hair after the first shampooing, but before a second shampooing. A method for improving the color retention of artificially colored hair. A composition comprising applying to hair after it has been artificially colored but prior to a first shampooing of a composition comprising: (i) Bis-Copolymer Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone / SMDI; (ii) Triisotearyl Trilinoleate; (iii) Perfluornonyl Dimethicone; and (iv) a vehicle; wherein at least one of said Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethyl-na / SMDI copolymer, said Triisotearyl Trilinoleate and said Perfluornonyl Dimethicone is dispersible but not soluble in said carrier; and wherein said vehicle comprises water and a cationic thickener. A method according to claim 12, wherein each of said Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone / SMDI copolymer, Triisotearyl Trilinoleate and Perfluornonyl Dimethicone is dispersible but not soluble in said vehicle.