BR112014024666B1 - CAPILLARY COSMETIC COMPOSITION THAT UNDERSTANDS A VEGETABLE LECITHIN - Google Patents

Abstract

capillary cosmetic composition comprising a vegetable lecithin. the present invention relates to a cosmetic capillary composition comprising at least one vegetable lecithin, at least one anionic surfactant and at least one fatty alcohol.

Description

CAPILLARY COSMETIC COMPOSITION THAT Comprises A VEGETABLE LECITHIN BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION [001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic capillary composition comprising at least one vegetable lecithin, at least one anionic surfactant and at least one fatty alcohol.

STATE OF THE TECHNIQUE [002] Hair is subject to a wide variety of strong wear, for example, as a result of environmental influences, such as ultraviolet or atmospheric irradiation, mechanical stresses, such as combing, or various hair treatments, such as such as washing, drying with hot air, lightening, coloring, perm, etc., which can lead to damage to the hair. Such damages include, for example, dryness, less elasticity, fragility, split ends, lack of liveliness, matte aspect, reduced volume, rough surface and reduced mechanical strength. This leads to compromised combability, reduced brightness, increased electrostatic charge and a tendency to break. The owner of the hair feels uncomfortable.

[003] There is, therefore, a need for cosmetic hair compositions with a complex profile of properties that neutralize the negative effects of frayed hair in several possible ways. They must be characterized by properties of good conditioning, care, protection and repair of hair damage. Also important is the good formulability of the components used, which must be characterized by a high degree of compatibility. In addition, finished products must have good application properties. These often include, for example, a good thickening effect, the intention being to use as little as possible

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2/44 additional thickeners.

[004] In addition, consumers today often prefer green products, with the largest possible number of components of natural origin being used for their manufacture, and components with an environmental impact should be dispensed with. The expectations of many consumers, especially in Europe, for a natural product, also understand that, in the case of raw materials, the use of genetically modified components should be dispensed with as far as possible.

[005] Conditioners known in the prior art often comprise cationic surfactants and / or cationic polymers for hair. They adhere to the hair and lead to an improvement in the combability and shine of the hair, the polymers, at the same time, often improve the consistency of these preparations. Although cationic surfactants, such as, for example, cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride (CTAC) or beenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride (BTAC) generally have good conditioning properties, because of their poor biodegradability, they are not consistent with the use of a natural hair conditioner. In addition, surfactants and cationic polymers, depending on the composition of the total formulation in which they are used, also have some disadvantages in certain circumstances. For example, the sensory behavior of such hair conditioners needs, in some cases, improvements, which can become visible from a slippery coating, but also, at times, a rough sensation, somewhat sticky to the touch.

[006] In addition, silicone oils and / or hair polymers containing silicone groups are often used in cosmetic hair conditioning compositions. The desired effects are, when using silicone, for example, the generation of

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3/44 shine, improved combability or the closure of split ends, or other damage to the hair (especially in repair shampoos). However, due to various properties, the use of silicones in a natural hair conditioner is undesirable. For example, hair damage is often merely hidden by conditioners containing silicone, and not permanently repaired. The actual condition of the hair under the silicone is no longer evident, and objective compensation care becomes difficult. Furthermore, water-insoluble silicones especially have a tendency to accumulate in the hair, which becomes heavy and lifeless. Under the silicone layer, hair can dry out unnoticed, which can lead to an increase in split ends and hair breakage.

[007] Cosmetic compositions for hair conditioning are therefore desired, and the use of cationic surfactants and / or silicone compounds for their manufacture can be reduced or avoided.

[008] EP 0 983 041 A1 describes an aqueous support system for water insoluble material comprising at least one phospholipid, which is capable of forming vesicles, at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one nonionic surfactant.

[009] EP 1 183 008 A1 has a disclosure content comparable to that of EP 0 983 041 A1. 0010 [010] EP 1 430 870 A2 describes a capillary cosmetic composition comprising at least one lecithin, at least one amphoteric surfactant, at least one nonionic surfactant, at least one film-forming polymer and at least one cationic polymer.

[011] EP 1 146 854 B1 describes a composition comprising at least one organic phospholipid which is capable of forming

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4/44 vesicles, at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one nonionic surfactant. It can be used as a dosage form for waxes, water-insoluble polymers, resins and latex.

[012] DE 102006035040 A1 describes combinations of active ingredients from a) one or more active ingredients from the group of ascorbic acid and ascorbyl compounds and

b) mixtures of a C12-C16 alcohol, hydrogenated lecithin and palmitic acid.

[013] WO 2007/124864 describes a dispersion comprising water, a lipophilic phase and an emulsifier, the emulsifier comprising at least one acyl glutamate. Only optionally, the dispersion may also additionally comprise a phospholipid. A use of such dispersions in a cosmetic capillary composition, specifically a hair conditioner, is not described.

[014] The object of the present invention is to provide an improved composition for treatment compositions for hair conditioning. They must be suitable to cover a complex spectrum of requirements, as described at the beginning. In particular, it should be possible to provide hair conditioners considered by the consumer to be natural, which have good conditioning properties, which are comparable with conditioners based on cationic surfactants and / or silicone compounds known in the art.

[015] Surprisingly, it has now been found that this goal is achieved by a composition comprising at least one vegetable lecithin, at least one anionic surfactant and at least one fatty alcohol.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

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5/44 [016] The invention first provides a capillary cosmetic composition comprising

a) at least one vegetable lecithin,

b) at least one anionic surfactant and

c) at least one fatty alcohol.

[017] The invention further provides the use of a composition comprising components a), b) and c) in a hair treatment composition, in particular in a conditioning composition for hair treatment.

[018] The invention further provides a solid composition consisting of components a), b) and c).

[019] A invention provides, yet, the use of a composition solid as an intermediary for the production of a composition cosmetic capillary.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [020] The cosmetic capillary composition, according to the invention, has at least one of the following advantages:

- improvement of wet and dry hair combability,

- improving the ability to detangle hair,

- good styling properties,

- improved sensation to the touch,

- improved brightness,

- reduction of electrostatic charge,

- reduced tendency to split ends,

- improving the vividness of the hair,

- protection of hair during chemical hair treatments,

- realization of a natural conditioner concept (green),

- no tendency to form discolorations and / or an unpleasant odor. [021] Surprisingly, it was also found that components a), b) and c) used according to the invention are suitable for formulating a solid composition consisting of these

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6/44 components, and which is suitable as an intermediary in the form of a formulation base simple to handle, as a final form of marketing.

Component a)

[022] The composition in a deal with The invention comprises one component a), preferably in a 4 to 60%, in weight especially in preferably, in 10 to 50 % by weight in particular from 15 to 40% , by weight, with based on total weight From

components a), b) and c).

[023] Within the context of the present invention, the term lecithin is not limited to phosphatidylcholine, but refers to a complex mixture of polar lipid substances, insoluble in acetone (main component: phospho and glycolipids), soluble in acetone, non-polar (main component: triglycerides) and other ingredients. This definition is in line with the EU description for lecithins in the food sector (E 322, see Official Journal of the European Union, L 253/39, dated 20/09/2008).

[024] Within the context of the present invention, the term lecithin also includes lecithin which has undergone at least one synthetic step. Suitable synthesis steps include removal and / or fractionation of oil. In the case of oil removal, the oil and / or free fatty acids is / are removed from the native lecithin. The removal of oil serves to produce granules or powders, the so-called pure lecithins ”. These have a concentration of phospholipids that is increased compared to native lecithins and generally have improved O / W emulsifying properties. Lecithin fractionation preferably comprises a single-stage or multi-stage extraction with an organic solvent or a mixture of solvents. For extraction, preference is given to the use of an alcohol, or hydrocarbons or mixture of hydrocarbons, in particular,

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7/44 ethanol or hexane. The fractionation of lecithin then comprises the separation of at least a fraction that is soluble in the extraction agent, and at least a fraction that is insoluble in the extraction agent. Instead of or in addition to fractionation of the extraction, it is possible to use usual chromatographic methods for fractionation.

[025] Within the context of the present invention, the term lecithin also includes lecithin that has undergone at least one chemical modification step. The modification is preferably selected from enzymatic hydrolysis, acetylation, hydroxylation, hydrogenation or a combination of at least two of the processes mentioned above. The enzymatic modification is based on the separation of a fatty acid molecule from the phospholipid molecule with the help of a phospholipase. Acetylation is a modification of the phosphatidylethanolamine present in lecithin by acylating the amino group with an acetyl radical. The hydroxylation of mono- and polyunsaturated fatty acids bound in the phospholipid molecule can occur, for example, by reaction with hydrogen peroxide. The hydrogenation of mono- and polyunsaturated fatty acids linked to the phospholipid molecule can occur, for example, by reaction with hydrogen in the presence of usual hydrogenation catalysts.

[026] Standard commercial lecithin is a composition that essentially comprises phospholipids, as well as glycolipids, triglycerides and concomitant substances (such as sterols, free fatty acids, tocopherols, phenolic acids, synapine, etc.), and also small amounts of carbohydrates.

[027] Preferably, the lecithin used according to the invention as component a) has a total phospholipid content of at least 35% by weight, particularly preferably at least 38% by weight, in particular, at least 40%, in

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8/44 weight, based on the total weight of component a).

[028] Preferably, the lecithin used according to the invention as component a) has a neutral lipid content (i.e., acetone-soluble lipids) of at least 20% by weight, particularly preferably preferably at least 25% by weight, based on the total weight of component a).

[029] Preferably, the lecithin used according to the invention as component a) has an iodine index of at least 10. The iodine index is a measure of the lecithin content of component a) of unsaturated compounds, and refers to the amount of iodine in grams, which can be formally added to 100 grams of lecithin in component a).

[030] Preferably, the lecithin used according to the invention as component a) has an oleic acid content, after cleavage, of at least 35% by weight, particularly preferably at least 40% by weight , based on the total weight of component a). The oleic acid content, after cleavage, here refers to component a) after separating a fatty acid molecule from the phospholipid molecule. This occurs, for example, through enzymatic hydrolysis, for example, with the help of phospholipase A2.

[031] Preferably, the lecithin used according to the invention as component a) has a quantitative weight ratio of phosphatidylcholine to phosphatidylethanolamine> 1.

[032] Vegetable lecithins suitable as component a) are selected from canola lecithin, soy lecithin, corn lecithin, sunflower lecithin and mixtures thereof.

[033] In a specific embodiment, component a) does not comprise genetically modified plant lecithins. This condition can be satisfied, preferably, using canola lecithin, since, at least in the EU, canola cultivars

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Genetically modified 9/44 are currently not approved for cultivation.

[034] Preferably, component a) consists of at least 30% by weight, especially preferably at least 50% by weight, in particular at least 75% by weight, especially of at least 90% by weight, based on the total weight of component a), of canola lecithin. In a specific embodiment, canola lecithin is used exclusively as component a).

[035] Compared with other vegetable lecithins, and specifically with soy lecithin, the use of canola lecithin has the following additional advantages:

- particularly advantageous rheological properties can be achieved, which means that, for the production of viscous formulations, the use of thickening agents can be reduced or avoided,

- the use of genetically modified materials can, if desired, be easily avoided (unlike, for example, in the case of soy lecithin),

- canola is a native oil plant.

[036] The term canola generally refers to oilseeds that originate from the plant genus Brassica (cruciferous vegetables). In principle, suitable for obtaining canola lecithin seeds are the various canola crops available worldwide, for example, the plant varieties Brassica carinata, Brassica juncea, Brassica rapa and Brassica napus. A canola variety grown specifically in Central Europe is winter canola (Brassica napus L.).

[037] A detailed description of the composition and functionality of canola lecithin can be found in the dissertation by Claudia Heift, Institute of Biochemistry and Food Chemistry, of

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Hamburg University, 2007.

[038] Canola lecithin suitable as component a) has, for example, the following composition:

triglycerides from 18 to 40% total phospholipids from 38 to 52% phosphatidylcholine from 13 to 17%, preferably from 14 to 16% phosphatidylethanolamine from 6 to 10% phosphatidylinositol from 9.0 to 11.5% phosphatidic acid from 2 to 6 % total glycolipids from 6 to 10% steril glycosides from 4 to 6% digalactosyl diacylglycerols from 2 to 4% cerebrosides from 0.5 to 1.5% carbohydrates from 3 to 12% total concomitant substances from 0.5 to 5% α -tocopherol from 10 to 2500 ppm sterols, phenolic acids (synapine), chlorophyll, etc. [039] The canola lecithin used according to the invention as component a) preferably has a fraction of triglycerides in the range of 32% to 42%. An essential difference between canola lecithin, on the one hand, and soy or sunflower lecithin, on the other hand, is found in the composition of fatty acids. For example, canola lecithin has a higher oleic acid content and a lower fraction of linoleic acid.

[040] The following table shows the fraction of fatty acids C16 and C18 of a suitable canola lecithin as component a), based on the total fatty acid content:

Palmitic acid 4 to 8% by weight

Stearic acid 0.5 to 3% by weight

Oleic acid from 35 to 45% by weight

Linearic acid from 12 to 22% by weight

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Linolenic acid 2 to 5% by weight [041] A commercially available canola lecithin, suitable for use as component a), is Solec RF-10 from Solae Europe S.A., Ouderkerke a.d. Ijssel, The Netherlands.

Component b)

[042] The composition of a deal with the invention comprises O component b), preferably in a quantity of 1 to 30%, in weight, in particular, of preference , from 2 to 25% , by weight, in in particular, from 3 to 20%, by weight, based on total weight From components a), b) and c). [043] Typical examples of agents surfactants anionic are

soaps, alkyl sulfonates alkylbenzene sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, methyl ester sulfonates, sulpho-fatty acids, alkyl sulphate, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulphates, fatty acid ether sulphates mixed hydroxyl sulfates, (ether) monoglyceride sulfates, (ether) fatty acid amide sulfates, mono and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, carboxylic ether acids and their salts, fatty acid isetionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acyl amino acids, such as, for example, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, oligoglycoside alkyl sulfates, glucose alkyl carboxylates, condensates of protein fatty acids and alkyl (ether) phosphates.

[044] Preferably, component b) comprises at least one acyl glutamate, at least one alkyl sulfate.

[045] Suitable soaps are, for example, alkali metals, alkaline earth metals and ammonium salts of fatty acids, such as potassium stearate.

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12/44 [046] Suitable olefin sulfonates are obtained, for example, by the reaction of adding SO3 to olefins according to the formula R ³ CH = CH-R ⁴ and subsequent hydrolysis and neutralization, where R ³ and R ⁴ , independently are H or alkyl radicals with 1 to 20 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R ³ and R ⁴ together have at least six and preferably 8 to 20, specifically 10 to 16 carbon atoms. With regard to preparation and use, reference can be made to the summary of the article “J. Am. Oil. Chem. Soc., 55, 70 (1978). The olefin sulfonates can be present as alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium salts. Preferably, the olefin sulfonates are present as sodium salts. The hydrolysed product of the alpha-olefin sulfonation, that is, the alphaolefin sulfonates are composed of about 60% by weight of alkane sulfonates and about 40% by weight of hydroxyalkane sulfonates; of these, about 80 to 85% by weight are monosulfonates, and from 15 to 20% by weight are disulfonates.

[047] Preferred methyl ester sulfonates (MES) are obtained by sulfonation of methyl esters of fatty acids from animal fats or vegetable oils. Preference is given to methyl ester sulfonates of vegetable fats and oils, for example, from canola oil, sunflower oil, soy oil, palm oil, coconut fat, etc.

[048] Preferred sarcosinates are sodium lauroyl sarcosinate or sodium stearoyl sarcosinate.

[049] Preferred protein fatty acid condensates are wheat-based vegetable products.

[050] Preferred alkyl phosphates are alkyl esters of mono and diphosphoric acid.

Acyl glutamate [051] In a first preferred embodiment, component b)

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13/44 comprises at least 30% by weight, particularly preferably at least 50% by weight, in particular at least 75% by weight, specifically at least 90% by weight of at least one acyl glutamate. In a specific embodiment, component b) is exclusively composed of at least one acyl glutamate.

[052] Acyl glutamates suitable as component b) are the compounds of formula (I)

COLOR ¹

HN

XOOC COOX (I) [053] where COR ¹ is a straight or branched chain acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal, the equivalent monovalent charge of an alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium. The preparation of acyl glutamates occurs, for example, by the Schotten-Baumann acylation reaction of glutamic acid with fatty acids, fatty acid esters or fatty acid halides. Acyl glutamates are commercially available, for example, from Clariant AG, Frankfurt, Germany or Ajinomoto Co. Inc., Tokyo, Japan. A summary of the preparation and properties of acyl glutamates can be found in M. Takehara et al. in J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc. 49 (1972) 143. Typical acyl glutamates suitable as component b) are preferably derived from fatty acids having from 6 to 22 and, particularly preferably, from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. In particular, mono or dialkali metal salts of acyl glutamate are used. These include, for example, (in parentheses, the commercial names of Ajinomoto, USA): sodium cocoyl glutamate (Amisoft

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14/44

CS-11), disodium cocoyl glutamate (Amisoft ECS-22SB), triethanolammonium cocoyl glutamate (Amisoft CT-12), triethanolammonium lauroyl glutamate (Amisoft LT-12), sodium myristoyl glutamate (Amisoft MS-11), sodium stearoil glutamate (Amisoft HS-11 P) and mixtures.

[054] Particular preference is given to acyl glutamates which are derived from fatty acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular acyl glutamates which are derived from fatty acids having 18 carbon atoms (stearoyl glutamates). Particular preference is given to sodium salts of stearoyl glutamate (INCI: sodium stearoyl glutamate), which are sold, for example, under the trade name EUMULGIN ^® SG (BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH) or Amisoft HS-11 P ^® (Ajinomoto, USA). Particular preference is also given to acyl glutamates which are derived from mixtures of fatty acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms, specifically, cocoyl glutamates. Particular preference is given to sodium salts of sodium cocoyl glutamate.

[055] In a specific embodiment, component b) consists exclusively of at least one stearoyl glutamate. In a more specific embodiment, component b) is exclusively composed of at least one cocoyl glutamate. Alkyl sulfates [056] In a second preferred embodiment, component b) comprises at least 30% by weight, particularly preferably at least 50% by weight, in particular at least 75% by weight, especially at least 90% by weight of at least one alkyl sulfate. In a specific embodiment, component b) is exclusively composed of at least one alkyl sulfate.

[057] Preference is given, as component b), to the use of at least one sulfate of a fatty alcohol of the general formula R ² -S-SO3Y, in

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15/44 that R ² is a straight or branched chain saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, which has 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and Y is an alkali metal, the monovalent charge equivalent of an alkaline earth metal, ammonium, mono, di, tri or tetraalkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium. Sulfates of suitable fatty alcohols are preferably obtained by sulfating native fatty alcohols or synthetic oxo alcohols, and subsequent neutralization. Typical examples of sulfates of fatty alcohols are sulfation products of caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, beenyl alcohol and elaeostearyl alcohol, as well as their salts and mixtures. The preferred salts of the fatty alcohol sulfates are the sodium and potassium salts, in particular, the sodium salts. The preferred mixtures of fatty alcohol sulphates are based on mixtures of technical grade alcohols, which are produced, for example, during high pressure hydrogenation of technical grade methyl esters based on fats and oils, or during the hydrogenation of aldehydes from oxo synthesis, or during the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. In order to supply the alkyl sulfates used as component b), preference is given to the use of mixtures of fatty alcohols and fatty alcohols having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms and, in particular, from 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Typical examples of these are technical grade alcohol sulfates based on vegetable raw material.

[058] Component b), particularly preferably, comprises at least one sulfate from a mixture of C16 / C18 fatty alcohol or a salt thereof. In particular, component b)

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16/44 comprises or consists of sodium cetearyl sulfate (cetearyl refers to a mixture of cetyl (hexadecyl) and stearyl (octadecyl)).

[059] Sodium cetearyl sulfate is commercially available under the name Lanette E from BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH as a 1: 1 mixture of sodium cetyl sulfate and sodium stearyl sulfate.

Component C [060] The composition according to the invention comprises component c), preferably in an amount of 10 to 95%, by weight, preferably from 20 to 90%, by weight, in particular, from 25 to 85 % by weight, based on the total weight of components a), b) and c).

[061] Fatty alcohols suitable as component c) preferably have 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular, preferably 10 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular, 12 to 20 carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon radical of fatty alcohols can, in principle, be straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Typical examples of fatty alcohols are caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol and their mixtures. Preferred mixtures of fatty alcohols are based on mixtures of technical grade alcohols which are produced, for example, during high pressure hydrogenation of technical grade methyl esters based on fats and oils, or during the hydrogenation of synthesis aldehydes oxo, or during the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols.

[062] Particularly preferably component c) comprises a mixture of C16 / C18 fatty alcohol.

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17/44 [063] Cetylstearyl alcohol is commercially available under the name of Lanette O® from BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH as a 1: 1 mixture of the two individual alcohols C16 and C18.

[064] Preferably, in the composition, according to the invention, the quantitative weight ratio of component a) (= lecithin) to component b) (= anionic surfactant) is in a range of 5: 1 to 1: 5, in particular, preferably from 4: 1 to 1: 4, in particular, from 3: 1 to 1: 1. In a specific embodiment, the quantitative weight ratio of component a) to component b) is in the range of about 2.5: 1 to 1.5: 1. Solid composition [065] Components a), b) and c) can advantageously be formulated to provide a solid composition. This comprises lecithin, together with an emulsifying agent and a component that gives consistency and is exceptionally suitable, for example, for the production of aqueous hair conditioners. Therefore, it is specifically suitable as an intermediary for the production of cosmetic hair compositions. It is also suitable as a component of a “kit of parts” composition for the formulation of a capillary cosmetic composition.

[066] Therefore, the invention further provides a composition

solid what It consists of a) at least an lecithin vegetable, b) by any less one anionic surfactant and c) by one less alcohol fatty, in that components a), b) and ç) They are like defined above. [067] An preferred embodiment refers to a composition solid what consisting of from 4 to 60% by weight of component a) , from 1 to 30% by weight of component b) and - from 10 to 95% by weight of the component ç), on what the total weight of components a), b) and c) sum up to 1 00%, in

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18/44 weight.

[068] Solid compositions according to the invention can be produced, for example, by melt granulation or melt pelletization. Here, a mixture of components a), b) and

c) is heated with stirring in a mixer, for example. Heating can take place in the usual way, for example, by means of a heating blanket, with microwave, radiation energy or other energy input pathway of the mixer. If the melting temperature of the mixture used in each case is obtained or its surface softens or begins to melt, granulation begins. Then, the hot molten granules are either discharged from the mixer and cooled in thin layers at room temperature, or else they are cooled with appropriate cooling (for example, cooling mat) in the mixer, possibly with stirring. To produce pellets, the molten material can be discharged from the mixer onto a refrigerated roller or refrigerated conveyor belt. Alternatively, for the production of granules or pellets, an extruder can be used. The constituents of the composition can, in whole or in part, be premixed in a container. The mixture of all components, the individual components and the previously unmixed components are fed to the extruder and brought to the desired consistency. To produce pellets, the extrusion product can be converted into a rounded shape, for example, in a spheronizer. To produce granules, the extrusion product can be further transported, for example, to a fluidized bed.

Capillary cosmetic composition [069] The capillary cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises component a), preferably in an amount of 0.2 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.4 to 10%, in

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19/44 weight, in particular, from 0.6 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[070] The cosmetic hair composition according to the invention comprises component b), preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, in particular , from 0.3 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[071] The capillary cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises component c), preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 50%, by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 25%, by weight, in particular, of 1.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[072] The cosmetic hair compositions according to the invention preferably comprise at least one other component which is selected from:

d) surfactants other than components a) to c),

e) cosmetically acceptable active ingredients,

f) cosmetically acceptable auxiliaries other than components a) to e),

g) water

Other surfactants d) [073] In a suitable embodiment, the capillary cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one other surfactant d). Preferably, the capillary cosmetic composition comprises at least one other surfactant d) in an amount of 0.05 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, in particular , from 0.2 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[074] The total amount of at least one anionic surfactant b) and at least one other surfactant d) is preferably in a range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly

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Preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.3 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[075] In a specific embodiment, the capillary cosmetic composition according to the invention does not comprise another surfactant d).

[076] Other suitable surfactants d) are preferably selected from phospholipids other than lecithin, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[077] Phospholipids are amphiphilic lipids that contain phosphorus. They are suitable phospholipids as component d), which occur in lecithin only in a smaller amount, if there are, for example, phosphatidylserines, sphingomyelin and plasmalogens. Sphingomyelin is derived from sphingosine as a basic skeleton, and plasmalogens differ from phosphoglycerides only in that they have an unsaturated alcohol (for example, -OCH = CH- (CH2) n-CH3), connected via an ether bridge on the glycerol C1 atom, instead of a fatty acid. Also suitable are the so-called lysophospholipids, in which a fatty acid radical has been separated from the phospholipid molecule to result in an OH group, for example, with the help of a phospholipase.

[078] Nonionic surfactants include, for example:

- polyoxyalkylene fatty alcohol esters, for example, lauryl acetate polyoxyethylene alcohol,

- polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, which are derived from low molecular weight C1-C6 alcohols or C7-C30 fatty alcohols. Here, the ether component can be derived from ethylene oxide units, propylene oxide units, 1,2-butylene oxide units, 1,4-butylene oxide units and random copolymers and block copolymers of the same . These include, specifically, alkoxylates of fatty alcohols and alkoxylates of

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21/44 oxo alcohols, in particular of the type RO- (RisO) r (Ri9O) sR20 where Ris and Ri9, independently of each other, = C2H4, C3H6, C4H8 and R20 = H, or C1-C12 alkyl, R = alkyl C3-C30 or C6-C30 alkenyl, res, independently of each other, are from 0 to 50, where both cannot be 0, such as isotridecyl alcohol and polyoxyethylene oleyl alcohol ethers,

- polyoxyethylene alkylaryl ethers, eg polyoxyethylene octylphenol ethers,

- alkoxylated animal and / or vegetable fats and / or oils, for example, corn oil ethoxylates, castor oil ethoxylates, tallow fat ethoxylates,

- glycerol esters, such as, for example, glycerol monostearate,

- alkylphenol alkoxylates, such as, for example, isooctyl, octyl or ethoxylated nonylphenol, tributylphenol polyoxyethylene ether,

- grease amine alkoxylates, fatty acid amide and fatty acid diethanolamide alkoxylates, in particular, ethoxylates thereof,

- sugar surfactants, sorbitol esters, such as, for example, sorbitan fatty acid esters (sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan tristearate), polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters, alkyl polyglycosides, Nalkylglycolamides,

- alkyl methyl sulfoxides

- alkyl dimethyl phosphine oxides, such as, for example, tetradecyl dimethyl phosphine oxide.

[079] Suitable amphoteric surfactants are, for example, alkyl betaines, alkylamidopropyl betaines, alkylsulfo betaines, alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphacetates or propionates, alkyl amphodiacetates or dipropionates. Per

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22/44 example, it is possible to use cocodimethylsulfopropyl betaine, laurylbetaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium cocamphopropionate or tetradecyldimethylamine oxide.

[080] Cationic surfactants include, for example, quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular, alkyl trimethylammonium and dialkyldimethylammonium halides and sulfates and pyridine and imidazoline derivatives, in particular alkylpyridinium halides. For example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or beenylla may be used.

[081] In a preferred embodiment, the capillary cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise any cationic surfactant.

Active ingredients e) [082] Active ingredients e) cosmetically and / or dermatologically indicated are, for example, anti-dandruff active ingredients, proteins and protein derivatives, cosmetically active polymers, hair pigment agents, bleaches, keratin curing substances, active ingredients antimicrobials, light filter active ingredients, repellent active ingredients, hyperemic substances, antiphlogistic, keratinizing substances, antioxidant active ingredients and / or free radical active ingredients, sebostatic active ingredients, plant extracts, anti-erythematous or antiallergic active ingredients and their mixtures.

[083] The cosmetic hair compositions according to the invention may comprise as active ingredient e) (and, optionally, also, as auxiliary f)) at least one anti-dandruff active ingredient.

[084] Suitable anti-dandruff active ingredients are pyroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimethylpentyl) -2 (1H) petition 870190077829, of 12/08/2019, page 33 / 61

23/44 pyridinonamonoethanolamine), crinipan AD (climbazol), ketoconazole, (4-acetyl-1 {4 [2 (2,4-dichlorophenyl) r-2 (1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1,3dioxolan-c- 4-ylmethoxyphenyl} piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, colloidal sulfur, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monoolea, sulfin polyethoxylate ricinol, sulfur tar distillates, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorene hydrochloride, monohydrochloride), Na salt sulfosuccinate, Uame lamepon (protein condensate of undecylenic acid), zinc pyrithione, aluminum pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione sulfate / magnesium dipyrithione.

[085] Active ingredients e) that can also be used are proteins and protein derivatives, such as, for example, protein condensates or protein hydrolysates. The compositions according to the invention can comprise at least one polymer as a cosmetic active ingredient e) (and, optionally, also, as auxiliary f)). These very generally include neutral, anionic, cationic and amphoteric polymers.

[086] Examples of anionic polymers are copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide and their salts; sodium salts of poly-idroxycarboxylic acids, water-soluble or water-dispersible polyesters, for example, BASF Luviset PUR ^® polyurethanes, and polyureas. Particularly suitable polymers are copolymers of t-butyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, methacrylic acid (eg, Luvimer ^® 100P), ethyl acrylate copolymers and methacrylic acid (eg, Luvimer ^® MAE), N-acrylamide copolymers -tert-butyl, ethyl acrylate, acrylic acid (Ultrahold ^® 8, forte), vinyl acetate copolymers, crotonic acid and, optionally, other vinyl esters (eg Luviset ^® grades), maleic anhydride copolymers, optionally reacted with alcohol, anionic polysiloxanes,

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24/44 eg functional carboxy, t-butyl acrylate, methacrylic acid (eg Luviskol® VBM), acrylic acid and methacrylic acid copolymers with hydrophobic monomers, such as, for example, C4-C30 alkyl esters (meth) acrylic acid, C4-C30 alkyl vinyl esters, C4C30 alkyl vinyl ether and hyaluronic acid. An example of an anionic polymer is also methyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid / acrylic acid / urethane acrylate copolymer available under the name Luviset ^® Shape (INCI: Polyacrylate-22). Examples of anionic polymers are also vinyl acetate copolymers / crotonic acid copolymers, commercially available, for example, under the names RESYN ^® (National Starch) and Gafset ^® (GAF), and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, which can be obtained, for example, under the trade name Luviflex ^® (BASF). Other suitable polymers are vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate terpolymer, available under the name Luviflex® VBM-35 (BASF) and sodium polyamides containing sulfonate or sodium polyesters containing sulfonate. Also suitable are vinylpyrrolidone / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid copolymers, which are marketed by Stepan under the name Stepanhold-Extra and Stepanhold -R1, and the CARBOSET® grades from BF Goodrich.

[087] Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic polymers with the INCI polyquaternary name, for example, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers / N-vinylimidazole salts (Luviquat ^® FC, Luviquat ^® HM, Luviquat ^® MS, Luviset Clear ^® , Luviquat Supreme ^® , Luviquat ^® Care), N-vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (Luviquat ^® PQ 11), N-vinylcaprolactam / Nvinylpyrrolidone / N-vinylimidazole (Luviquat ^® ) salt copolymers; derivatives of cationic cellulose (polyquaternium-4 and polyquaternium-10), copolymers of acrylamide (polyquaternium-7) and chitosan. Polymers

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Suitable cationic (quaternized) 25/44 are also Merquat® (polymer based on dimethyldialylammonium chloride), Gafquat® (quaternary polymers that are formed by the reaction of polyvinylpyrrolidone with quaternary ammonium compounds), polymer JR (hydroxyethylcellulose with cationic groups) and vegetable-based cationic polymers, for example, guar polymers, such as Rhodia's Jaguar® grades.

[088] Very particularly suitable polymers are neutral polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of Nvinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate and / or vinyl propionate, polysiloxanes, polyvinylcaprolactam and other copolymers with Nvinylpyrrolidone, polyethylamine and their derivatives, their polyethylamine and their compounds, and their polyethylene and its derivatives and their compounds. cellulose, salts of polyaspartic acid and their derivatives. These include, for example, Luviflex® Swing (partially saponified polyvinyl acetate copolymer and polyethylene glycol, BASF).

[089] Suitable polymers are also non-ionic, water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers, or oligomers, such as polyvinylcaprolactam, for example, Luviskol ^® Plus (BASF SE), or polyvinylpyrrolidone and its copolymers, in particular, with esters of vinyl, such as vinyl acetate, for example, Luviskol ^® VA 37, VA 55, VA 64, VA 73 (BASF SE); polyamides, for example, based on itaconic acid and aliphatic diamines, which are described, for example, in document DE-A-43 33 238.

[090] Suitable polymers are also amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, such as octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers available under the names Amphomer ^® (National Starch) and also polymers which are described by zitteri for example. , in German patent applications DE 39 29 973, DE 21 50 557, DE 28 17 369 and DE 37 08 451.

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26/44 acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and alkali metal and ammonium salts are preferred zwitterionic polymers. Furthermore, suitable zwitterionic polymers are copolymers of metacroiletil / betaine methacrylate, which are commercially available under the name Amersette® (Amerchol) and copolymers of hydroxyethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, N, N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and acrylic acid (Jordapon ^®).

[091] Suitable polymers are also non-ionic, water-soluble or dispersible polymers containing siloxane, for example, polyethersiloxanes, such as Tegopren ^® (Goldschmidt) or Belsil ^® (Wacker).

[092] In a specific embodiment, the capillary cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise polymers that do not contain siloxane.

[093] Suitable antiflogistics, which neutralize skin irritations, for example, are allantoin, bisabolol, dragosantol, chamomile extract, panthenol, etc. Suitable plant antiflogistics are, for example, bromelain, willow bark, chamomile flowers, marigold flowers, arnica flowers, devil's claw root, ash bark, poplar bark, solidago, horse chestnut and incense.

[094] Suitable hardening keratin substances are generally active ingredients that are also used in antiperspirants, such as aluminum potassium sulphate, aluminum hydroxychloride, aluminum lactate, etc.

[095] Suitable photo-filter active ingredients are substances that absorb UV rays in the UV-B and / or UV-A region, in order to prevent damage to the hair. Suitable UV filters are those mentioned above. Also suitable are paminobenzoic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, benzophenones, derivatives

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27/44 camphor and also pigments that block UV rays, such as titanium dioxide, talc and zinc oxide.

[096] Suitable repellent active ingredients are compounds that are able to keep or scare off certain animals, in particular insects, (to) away from a person. These include, for example, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, etc.

[097] Suitable hyperemic substances, which stimulate circulation in the skin, are, for example, essential oils, such as dwarf pine needle, lavender, rosemary, juniper berry, horse chestnut extract, birch leaf extract, hay flower, ethyl acetate, camphor, menthol, mint oil, rosemary extract, eucalyptus oil, etc.

Cosmetically acceptable auxiliaries f) [098] These preparations according to the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetically acceptable auxiliary f). Auxiliary f) is preferably selected from oily bodies, fats, waxes, pearlescent waxes, propellants, consistency regulators, over-greasy thickeners, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, UV stabilizers, antioxidants, film, swelling agents, hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes, etc. and their mixtures.

[099] Oily components and / or cosmetically compatible fat especially suitable are described in Karl-Heinz Schrader, Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika [fundamentals and formulations of cosmetics], 2nd edition, Hüthig Verlag, Heidelberg, pp. 319 to 355, to which reference is made here.

Oily bodies [100] Oily bodies are preferably selected from:

- Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols containing 6 to 18,

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28/44 preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms,

- esters of straight or branched chain C6-C22 fatty acids with straight or branched chain C6-C22 fatty alcohols. These include, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl beenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl beenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl beate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearate palmitate, isostearate palmitate isostearyl, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl beenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl hematoate, oleyl hematoate, oleyl hematoate, oleylate wasate beenila palmitate, beenila stearate, beenila isostearate, beenila oleate, beenila beenate, beenila erucate, eruci myristate la, erucila palmitate, erucila stearate, erucila isostearate, erucila oleate, erucila beenate and erucila erucate. These also specifically include esters of straight chain C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol esters,

- esters of C8-C30 alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with straight or branched chain C6-C22 fatty alcohols, in particular dioctyl malate,

- esters of straight-chain and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as for example propylene glycol, dimerdiol or trimertriol) or Guerbet alcohols,

- liquid mono, di and triglycerides based on C6-C22 fatty acids

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29/44 and mixtures thereof,

- esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid,

- esters of C2-C12 dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or polyols containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups,

- vegetable oils, such as palm oil, canola oil, castor oil, coconut oil, evening primrose oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, linseed oil, olive oil, peanut oil, safflower, sesame seed oil, grapefruit oil, basil oil, apricot oil, ginger oil, geranium oil, orange oil, rosemary oil, macadamia oil, onion oil, tangerine oil, pine, sunflower oil,

- oxidized vegetable oils,

- hydrogenated vegetable oils such as hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated canola seed oil or hydrogenated soybean oil,

- oils of animal origin, such as pig fat oil, fish oils,

- medium to long chain fatty acid dialkylamides, eg Hallcomids,

- vegetable oil esters, such as canola oil methyl ester,

- straight and branched chain C6-C22 fatty alcohol carbonates, such as, for example, Dicaprilil Carbonate (Cetiol CC),

- Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols containing 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms,

- benzoic acid esters with straight and / or branched C6-C22 alcohols (eg Finsolv TN),

- linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetric dialkyl ethers containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms per group

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30/44 alkyl, such as tipprilyl ether (Cetiol OE),

- ring-opening products from esters of epoxidized fatty acids with polyols,

- silicone oils (cyclomethicone, methicone silicon grades, etc.),

- aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes, under consideration.

- paraffin oils, aromatic hydrocarbons and mixtures of aromatic hydrocarbons, for example, xylenes, Solvesso 100, 150 or 200 and the like,

- esters of carboxylic acids, for example dialkyl esters of adipic acid, such as bis (2-ethylexyl) adipate,

- dialkyl esters of phthalic acid, such as bis (2-ethylexyl) phthalate.

Fats and waxes [101] Typical examples of fats are glycerides, that is, vegetable or animal products, solid or liquid, which essentially consist of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids, suitable waxes are, inter alia, natural waxes, such as , for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricuri wax, lignite wax, wax bees, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), uropigial wax, ceresin, ozocerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, microceras; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as lignite ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and also synthetic waxes, such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes.

Pearlescent waxes [102] Suitable pearlescent waxes are, for example: esters of

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31/44 alkylene glycol, especially ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, specifically stearic acid monoglyceride; esters of polyhydric carboxylic acids, optionally substituted by hydroxy fatty alcohols containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, specifically, long chain esters of tartaric acid; fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially laurone and distearyl ether; fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, olefin epoxide ring opening products containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols containing 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and their mixtures.

Propellants [103] Propellants are the propellants commonly used in hair sprays or aerosol foams. Preference is given to mixtures of propane / butane, pentane, dimethyl ether, 1,1difluoroethane (HFC-152a), carbon dioxide, nitrogen or compressed air.

Consistency regulators and thickeners [104] Suitable consistency regulators are mainly fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids. Preference is given to a combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglycosides and / or fatty acids N-methylglucamides of identical chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12 hydroxystearates. Suitable thickeners are, for example, grades

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32/44

Aerosil (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular, xanthan gum, guar gum, agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethylcellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropylcellulose, also mono and diesters of relatively high molecular weight polyethylene glycol fatty acids (for example, polyacrylates , Carbopoles and Pemulen degrees by Noveon; Synthalens by Sigma; Keltrol degrees by Kelco; Sepigel degrees by Seppic; Salcare degrees by Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone. Bentonites have also proven to be particularly effective, such as, for example, Bentone Gel VS5PC (Rheox), which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate. Other suitable surfactants, such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, fatty acid esters with polyols, such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylalpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homologous or alkyl oligoglycoside distribution, and also electrolytes, such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride. In addition, sodium polynaphthalenesulfates, acrylate / aminoacrylate / copolymers PEG-20 C10-30 alkyl itaconate and polyacrylamide methyl propanesulfonic acid can also be mentioned.

[105] Suitable polymeric thickeners are, for example, optionally modified natural polymeric substances (carboxymethylcellulose and other cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propylcellulose and the like), and also synthetic polymeric thickeners (polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids polyethers, polyimines, polyamides). These include polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds which have already been partly indicated, for example, homopolymers of high molecular weight cross-linked acrylic acid with a polyalkenyl polyether, in particular a

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33/44 allyl ether of sucrose, pentaerythritol or propylene, (INCI name: Carbomer). Such polyacrylic acids are available, inter alia, from BF Goodrich under the trademark Carbopol®, for example, Carbopol 940 (molecular weight of about 4,000,000), Carbopol 941 (molecular weight of about 1,250,000) or Carbopol 934 (molecular weight of about 3,000,000). Also included are acrylic acid copolymers such as those available from Rohm & Haas under the trademarks Aculyn ^® and Acusol ^® , for example, the non-associative anionic polymers Aculyn 22, Aculyn 28, Aculyn 33 (crosslinked), Acusol 810 , Acusol 823 and Acusol 830 (CAS 25852-37-3). Also of specific suitability are associative thickeners, for example, based on modified polyurethanes (HEUR) or hydrophobically modified acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers (HASE thickeners, Hydrophobically Modified Alkaline Soluble Emulsion).

[106] The amount of use of the additional thickeners is preferably in the range of 0.001 to 5%, by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Over-greasing agents [107] Over-greasing agents that can be used are substances, such as, for example, lanolin, and also polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the latter serving simultaneously as foam stabilizers.

Stabilizers [108] Stabilizers that can be used are metal salts of fatty acids, such as, for example, magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate.

Film makers [109] Usual film makers are, for example, chitosan,

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34/44 microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone vinyl acetate copolymers, acrylic acid series polymers, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.

Swelling agents [110] The swelling agents for aqueous phases that can be used are montmorillonites, clay mineral substances, Pemulen and also modified Carbopol alkyl grades (Noveon). Hydrotopes [111] Hydrotropes, such as, for example, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols, can also be used to improve flow behavior. The polyols that are contemplated here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Polyols can also contain additional functional groups, in particular amino groups, and / or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are glycerol; alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and also polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons; mixtures of technical grade oligoglycerol, with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as, for example, mixtures of technical grade diglycerol with a content of diglycerol of 40 to 50% by weight; methylol compounds, such as, in particular, trimethylolethane, trimethylalpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol; lower alkyl glycosides, especially those containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical, such as, for example, methyl and butyl glycosides; sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as, for example, sorbitol or mannitol, sugar containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as, for example, sucrose or

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Glucose 35/44; amino sugars, such as, for example, glucamine; dialcoolamines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1,3propanediol.

Preservatives [112] Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, and also silver complexes known under the name Surfacine.

Perfume oils and scents [113] Perfume oils that can be mentioned are mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts from flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, cumin, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon , oranges), roots (apple, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, açoro), wood (pine, sandalwood, rosewood, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, dwarf pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, frankincense, opopanax). Raw materials of animal origin are also suitable, such as, for example, civet and castoreal. Typical synthetic fragrances are products of the types ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbons. Ester-type fragrance compounds are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butyl cyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzyl carbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, glycinate phenyl ethylmethyl, cyclohexyl allyl propionate, stiralyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether; aldehydes include, for example, linear alkanes containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronelal, citroneliloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitonelal,

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36/44 lilial and bourgeonal, ketones include, for example, ionones, isomethionone and methyl cedril ketone, alcohols include anethole, citronelol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpenine, hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to the use of mixtures of different fragrances which together produce a pleasant note of perfume. Essential oils of relatively low volatility, which are mainly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, for example, sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, leaf oil cinnamon oil, linden flower oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, frankincense, galbanum oil, labolane oil and lavender oil. Preferably, bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, liral, citronelol, phenylethyl alcohol, hexyl cinnamic aldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, strong boisambrene, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, oil are used tangerine, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavender oil, sage oil, damask, bourbon geranium oil, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernil, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romylate, irotil and floramat, alone or in mixtures.

[114] Suitable flavors are, for example, peppermint oil, green peppermint oil, anise oil, star anise oil, cumin oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, birch, clove oil, menthol and the like.

Dyes [115] Dyes that can be used are substances approved and suitable for cosmetic purposes. Examples are Ponceau 4R (CI 16255), patent blue V (CI42051), indigotine (CI73015),

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37/44 chlorophyllin (CI75810), quinoline yellow (CI47005), titanium dioxide (CI77891), alizarin blue (CI 69800) and alizarin P.A. (CI58000). Luminol can also be present as a luminescent dye. These dyes are normally used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1%, by weight, based on the total mixture.

[116] Preferably, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are in the form of a hair rinse, hair mask, shampoo, hair spray, hair foam, hair mousse, hair gel, fixative foam, tonic capillary, hair fixing composition, final fluid, neutralizer for permanent waves, hair dye and hair bleach or "hot treatment oil". Hair sprays can be in the form of aerosols or sprays without propellant gas. Hair foams can be present as aerosol foams or foams without propellant gas.

[117] Depending on the field of application, cosmetic hair preparations can be applied as a spray (aerosol), foam (aerosol), gel, spray gel, cream, lotion or wax. Hair sprays and foams preferably comprise components predominantly or exclusively soluble in water or dispersible in water. If the compounds used in hair sprays and hair foams according to the invention are dispersible in water, they can be used in the form of aqueous microdispersions, with particle diameters usually from 1 to 350 nm, preferably from 1 to 350 nm. 250 nm. The solids contents of these preparations are generally here in a range from about 0.5 to 20% by weight.

[118] Preferably, the capillary cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable vehicle. Preferably, the vehicle is selected from

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38/44

i) water, ii) water-miscible organic solvents, preferably C2-C4 alkanols, in particular ethanol, iii) oils, fats, waxes, iv) esters of C6-C30 monocarboxylic acids with mono, di or trihydric alcohols that are different iii),

v) saturated acyclic and cyclic hydrocarbons, vi) fatty acids, vii) fatty alcohols, viii) propellant gases and mixtures thereof.

[119] Suitable vehicles are the respective auxiliaries mentioned above.

[120] The cosmetic hair formulations according to the invention comprise, in a preferred embodiment,

A) from 0.05 to 20% by weight of at least one lecithin, component

The),

B) from 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant, component b),

C) from 0.5 to 50%, in weight of fur less a fatty alcohol, component c), D) 20 to 99.95%, in weight, in at least one vehicle cosmetically acceptable , E) from 0 to 50%, in weight, at least one propellant gas,

F) 0 to 25% by weight of at least one cosmetically acceptable active ingredient,

G) from 0 to 25%, by weight, of at least one cosmetically acceptable auxiliary other than components from A) to F), with the proviso that components A) to G) add up to 100% by weight.

[121] The preparation of cosmetic capillary compositions according to the invention is carried out by standard procedures known to the

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39/44 expert in the art.

[122] The following paragraphs are a list of embodiments of the present invention.

[123] Embodiment 1 is a capillary cosmetic composition that comprises

a) at least one vegetable lecithin,

b) at least one anionic surfactant and

c) at least one fatty alcohol.

[124] Embodiment 2 is the composition according to Embodiment 1, which comprises

- in 4 a 60% by weight of component The), - in 1 to 30% by weight of component b) and - in 10 to 95% by weight of component ç),

based on the total weight of components a), b) and c).

[125] Embodiment 3 is the composition according to Embodiment 1, wherein component a) consists of at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight, in particular at least 75% , by weight, specifically, at least 90% by weight, based on the total weight of component a), canola lecithin.

[126] Embodiment 4 is the composition according to any of the previous embodiments, where component a) consists exclusively of canola lecithin.

[127] Embodiment 5 is the composition according to any of embodiments 1 to 4, where the anionic surfactant b) comprises at least one acyl glutamate or consists of at least one acyl glutamate.

[128] Embodiment 6 is the composition according to embodiment 5, where the anionic surfactant b) comprises sodium stearoyl glutamate and / or cocoyl glutamate or consists of sodium stearoyl glutamate and / or sodium cocoyl glutamate.

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40/44 [129] Embodiment 7 is the composition according to any of embodiments 1 to 4, wherein the anionic surfactant b) comprises at least one alkyl sulfate or consists of at least one alkyl sulfate.

[130] Embodiment 8 is the composition according to embodiment 7, where the anionic surfactant b) comprises sodium cetearyl sulfate or consists of sodium cetearyl sulfate.

[131] Embodiment 9 is the composition according to any of the previous embodiments, where the fatty alcohol c) comprises stearyl cetyl alcohol or consists of stearyl cetyl alcohol.

[132] Embodiment 10 is the composition according to any of the previous embodiments, wherein the quantitative weight ratio of component a) to component b) is in a range of 5: 1 to 1: 5, preferably , from 4: 1 to 1: 4, particularly preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 1.

[133] Embodiment 11 is the composition according to any of the previous embodiments which, in addition, comprises at least one other component which is selected from:

d) surfactants other than components a) to c),

e) cosmetically acceptable active ingredients,

f) cosmetically acceptable auxiliaries other than components a) to e),

g) water.

[134] Embodiment 12 represents the use of a composition that comprises

a) at least one vegetable lecithin,

b) at least one anionic surfactant and

c) at least one fatty alcohol, where components a), b) and c) are as defined in

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41/44 any of embodiments 3 to 10, in a hair treatment composition.

[135] Embodiment 13 represents the use according to Embodiment 12 of hair treatment compositions as a conditioner.

[136] Embodiment 14 represents the use according to Embodiment 12 or 13, wherein the composition is in the form of a hair rinse, hair mask, shampoo, hair spray, hair foam, hair mousse, hair gel hair, fixing foam, hair tonic, hair fixing composition, final fluid, neutralizer for permanent waves, hair dye and hair bleach or "hot treatment oil".

[137] Embodiment 15 is a solid composition consisting of

a) at least one vegetable lecithin,

b) at least one anionic surfactant and

c) at least one fatty alcohol, wherein components a), b) and c) are as defined in any of embodiments 3 to 10.

[138] A concretization 16 is the composition solid according with the concreti organization 15, which consists of - from 4 to 60% by weight of component a), - from 1 to 30% by weight component b) and - of 10 95% by weight component c), wherein total weight of components a), b) and c) adds up to 100% in Weight. [139] A concretization 17 is the composition solid in according to any of the embodiments 15 and 16, defined under the

in the form of granules or in the form of pellets.

[140] Embodiment 18 represents the use of a solid composition, as defined in any of embodiments 15 and 17, as an intermediary for the production of a capillary cosmetic composition.

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42/44 [141] The invention is illustrated in more detail by reference to the following, non-limiting examples.

Examples [142] Example 1: Viscosity and stability depending on the emulsifier used [143] Preparation of test formulations according to Table 1:

2% by weight of canola lecithin (Solec RF-10 from Solae), 4% by weight of cetearyl alcohol (Lanette O® = 1: 1 mixture of C16 and C18 alcohol), 1% by weight, of emulsifier according to Table 1, and a corresponding amount of water ad 100%, by weight, were introduced as an initial load in a 1 liter container and homogenized using a paddle stirrer, from 70 to 80 ° C, and stirred until cool. Viscosity was measured using a Brookfield viscometer with spindle 4, at 20 ° C, and at 10 rpm.

Table 1

Emulsifier First name INCI Appearance Viscosity [mPas] Anionic Lanette E Sodium cetearyl sulfate homogeneous 7,000 Emulgin SG Sodium stearoyl glutamate homogeneous 5,000 Plantapon ACG Cocoil sodium glutamate homogeneous 5,700 Plantapon SUS Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate homogeneous 4,000 Eumulgin Prisma Disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate homogeneous 1,400 Arlatone SCI Cocoil isethionate homogeneous 5,600 Texapon N 70 Sodium lauryl sulfate homogeneous 5,000 Non-ionic Plantacare 1200 Glycoside Lauryl heterogeneous unstable Plantacare 810 Caprylil / capryl glycoside heterogeneous unstable Emulgade PL 68/50 Cetearyl glycoside and cetearyl alcohol heterogeneous unstable

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Eumulgin B 2 Ceteareto 20 heterogeneous unstable Amphoteric Dehyton PK 45 Cocoamidopropyl betaine homogeneous Unstable Amphosol CDB Cetyl betaine homogeneous unstable Cationic Dehyquart A Cetrimonium chloride homogeneous 3,000 Dehyquart S 18 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine heterogeneous unstable (144] Example 2 : Viscosity and stability age in function of

emulsifier used [145] In accordance with the procedure of example 1, test formulations were prepared comprising 2% by weight of lecithin, according to Table 2, 4% by weight of cetearyl alcohol (Lanette O® = 1: 1 mixture of C16 and C18 alcohol) and 1% by weight of Lanette E (sodium cetearyl sulfate).

Table 2

Phospholipid Solec RF-10 [%] Soy lecithin (India) [%] Phosphatidylcholine (FC) 15.49 15.08 Phosphatidylinisitol 10.25 12.08 Phosphatidylethanolamine (FE) 7.84 11.3 N-acylphosphatidylethanolamine 0.60 1.53 Phosphatidic acid 4.28 6.16 Total phospholipid 42.93 48.79 Total match 1.79 1.99 Iodine index 83.7 FC ratio: FE 1.98 1.33 Viscosity [mPas] 7,200 Conditioner appearance homogeneous heterogeneous

[146] Example 3: Measurement of zeta potential [147] In accordance with the procedure of example 1, test formulations were prepared comprising 2% by weight of lecithin from

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44/44

canola (Solec RF-10 from Solae) , 4%, in Weight, in Lanette O®, 1%, in weight, emulsifier, in wake up with The Table 3, and The corresponding quantity in Water ad 100%, in Weight. THE measurement of

zeta potential was performed using a Coulter DELSA 440 SX.

Table 3

Emulsifier pH Zeta potential [mV] Lanette E 3.5 - 80 Dehyquart A 3.8 + 80

[148] Example 4: Simultaneous washing tests [149] 2% by weight of canola lecithin (Solec RF-10, from Solae), 4% by weight of cetearyl alcohol (Lanette O ^® ), 1% by weight of Lanette E® (sodium cetearyl sulfate), 2% by weight of Myritol 312 (caprylic / capric triglyceride) and the corresponding amount of water ad 100% by weight to prepare a formulation of testing a natural conditioner according to the invention. The pH was 3 to 4. The Logona Bio Daily Care hair rinse was used as a comparative conditioner. Simultaneous hair washing experiments were carried out on 19 subjects, in each case treating one half of the head with the composition according to the invention and the other half with the comparative composition. The evaluation was carried out through classification, by qualified people. The difference in sensory evaluation was given on a scale from -3 (big difference, better comparative product) to +3 (big difference, better product according to the invention). The product according to the invention was better by +1 (slightly improved) on the rating scale, in the case of tactile sensation after washing, wet hair detangling ability, wet hair combability and wet hair feel. This is a significant improvement compared to the comparative product.

Claims (10)

1. Capillary cosmetic composition characterized by understanding a) vegetable lecithin, b) at least one anionic surfactant b) at least one anionic surfactant selected from the group of soaps, alkyl sulfonates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, methyl ester sulfonates, sulfur fatty acids, alkyl sulfate , fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, mixed hydroxyl ether sulfates, (ether) monoglyceride sulfates, (ether) fatty acid amide sulfates, mono and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono and dialkyl sulfosuccinates , sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, carboxylic ether acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acyl amino acids, such as, for example, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, glutamates acyl and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglycoside sulfates, glucose alkyl carboxylates, protein fatty acid condensates and the alkyl (ether) phosphates, and c) at least one fatty alcohol selected from caprylic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol , elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeosearearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol and their mixtures, and in which the quantitative weight ratio of component a) to component b) is in the range of 3: 1 to 1 : 1, and where component a) has a total phospholipid content of at least 35% by weight. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized by comprising - from 4 to 60% by weight of component (a), -from 1 to 30% by weight of component b), and - 10 to 95% by weight of component c), based on the total weight of components a), b) and c). Composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the anionic surfactant b) comprises at least one acyl glutamate or consists of at least one acyl glutamate. 4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized by the anionic surfactant b) comprising stearoyl glutamate and / or sodium cocoyl glutamate or consisting Petition 870190140329, of 12/27/2019, p. 14/15 2/2 in stearoyl glutamate and / or sodium cocoyl glutamate. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the anionic surfactant b) comprises at least one alkyl sulfate or consists of at least one alkyl sulfate. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the anionic surfactant b) comprises sodium cetearyl sulfate or consists of sodium cetearyl sulfate. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the fatty alcohol c) comprises cetylstearyl alcohol or cetylstearyl alcohol compound. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it additionally comprises at least one other component which is selected from: d) surfactants other than components a) to c), e) cosmetically acceptable active ingredients, f) cosmetically acceptable auxiliaries other than components a) to e), g) water. 9. Use of a cosmetic composition for hair, according to claim 1, characterized in that it is intended for hair treatment. 10. Use according to claim 9, characterized by the fact that hair treatment compositions are conditioning. Use according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that the hair treatment compositions are in the form of a hair rinse, hair mask, shampoo, hair spray, hair foam, hair mousse, hair gel the hair, hair tonic, hair composition, final fluid neutralizing permanent waves, hair dye and bleach or hot treatment oil.