AU771771B2 - Device for making a stretch cushion strap assembly - Google Patents

Description

AUSTRALIA

Patents Act COMPLETE SPECIFICATION

(ORIGINAL)

Class Int. Class Application Number: Lodged: Complete Specification Lodged: Accepted: Published: Priority Related Art: Name of Applicant: Playtex Apparel, Inc.

Actual Inventor(s): Anthony J Tedeschi, Falla P Benjamin Paschal, Joseph M Petrovich, Billy Poindexter, II, Gloria Address for Service: PHILLIPS ORMONDE FITZPATRICK Patent and Trade Mark Attorneys 367 Collins Street Melbourne 3000 AUSTRALIA Invention Title: DEVICE FOR MAKING A STRETCH CUSHION STRAP ASSEMBLY Our Ref 650379 POF Code: 269236/365997 The following statement is a full description of this invention, including the best method of performing it known to applicant(s): -1- OOeq This is a divisional application divided out of Application No. 86702/98, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

DEVICE FOR MAKING A STRETCH CUSHION STRAP ASSEMBLY BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates generally to a strap assembly and, more particularly, to a stretch cushion strap assembly for use in a shoulder strap. This stretch cushion strap assembly provides relief from the normal discomfort associated with shoulder straps, while maintaining the desired aesthetic appearance even after repeated machine washings. The strap assembly is uniquely designed to move with the wearer to support her. In addition, the present invention provides a method and device for making such a stretch cushion strap assembly. A primary use of this stretch cushion strap assembly is .in shoulder straps of a brassiere.

A problem associated with brassiere shoulder straps is the discomfort o°caused by the strap on the shoulder of the wearer. Specifically, each brassiere strap will normally cause either a depression or irritation in the shoulder and may even interfere with arterial or venous drainage. Numerous attempts have been made to relieve this discomfort. Some attempts have included use of shoulder pads of cotton or foam rubber that are interposed between the strap and the wearer's shoulder or releasably attachable to the strap.

Significantly, such pads have proven to be bulky and unsightly. Also, there are inconveniences attendant with such attachments since such pads will need to be removed, and subsequently reattached, each time the brassiere is OO.l Swashed.

Some brassiere straps have attempted to incorporate a pad structure in the strap itself. Such brassiere straps may have achieved a modicum of success in relieving discomfort. However, such brassieres have limited user life since they fail to maintain their desired appearance after several machine washings, apparently due to the effect cleaning detergents have on the construction and materials of the brassiere strap. Pads and straps made of foam have been found to yellow after a few washings. Brassieres that have incorporated a pad therein may have a knotted or bumpy appearance after X:VMegan'No delete\86702-98 Divisonal Applicationdoc 2 repeated machine washings. Moreover, none of these straps provide the comfort of a stretch shoulder strap, that can stretch longitudinally to move with the wearer.

Other attempts to relieve discomfort, yet provide a modicum of pleasing appearance, have included widening the shoulder strap in order to better distribute the weight in the shoulder area. Still other attempts have been to incorporate elastic bands with a padded cover in the strap to provide more flexibility and thus attempt to better distribute the pressure in the shoulder area.

These attempts have, heretofore, failed to achieve the desired results, namely relief of the discomfort in the shoulder area, with a smooth attractive appearance that is maintained even after repeated wear and machine washing, combined with flexibility and give to allow the strap to move with the wearer.

Thus, long wear life and comfort have evaded prior art shoulder straps.

The above discussion of background art is included to explain the 15 context of the present invention. It is not to be taken as an admission that any oO.o of the material referred to was published, known or part of the common general knowledge in Australia as at the priority date of any of the claims of this specification.

In view of the above, it would be desirable to have a device that can use 20 materials, in conjunction with suitable construction, to achieve comfort and long wear life coupled with a good appearance.

ooO SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION Broadly, the present invention provides a device for manufacturing a laminated cushion strap assembly, the device including a mold and cut station for molding and cutting the strap assembly at a single location.

In one preferred embodiment, the mold and cut station includes a device having an upper cutting blade and a lower mold. Preferably, the lower mold is adapted to contact, heat and laminate the cushion strap assembly before the cutting blade contacts and cuts the cushion strap assembly.

In another preferred embodiment, a first drive and a second drive located on opposite sides of the mold and cut station. Preferably, the first drive is synchronized with the second drive to move the cushion strap assembly to and X:\Megan\No deeete86702-98 Dvisional Application.doc 3 from the mold and cut station under minimal tension.

Advantageously, the present invention provides a device for making a stretch cushion strap assembly for a shoulder strap, and a stretch cushion strap assembly that can be used in the should straps of a brassiere.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS The foregoing and still other features and advantages of the present invention will be more apparent from the following detailed explanation of the preferred embodiments of the present invention in connection with the accompanying drawings wherein: FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a brassiere having a pair of the brassiere straps each incorporating a cushion strap assembly; FIG. 2 is a top view of the cushion strap assembly of Fig. 1; 15 FIG. 3 is a cross-sectional view of the cushion strap assembly of Fig. 1; 06.0 FIG. 4 is a perspective, sectional view taken along lines 4-4 of Fig. 1 illustrating the formed bottom portion of the cushion strap assembly; o: FIG. 5 is a plurality of cushion strap assemblies during the formation process; 20 FIG. 6 is an exploded view of the components used to manufacture the .tllti plurality of cushion strap assemblies; and FIG. 7 is a diagram of an embodiment of the device of the present invention used to make a cushion strap assembly.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Referring to the figures and, in particular, Fig. 1, there is provided a brassiere generally represented by reference numeral 10. The brassiere includes a pair of shoulder straps 15. Each shoulder strap 15 has, as shown more clearly in outline form in Fig. 2, a stretch or stretchable cushion strap assembly 20 of the present invention.

Referring to Fig. 3, the cushion strap assembly 20 includes multiple layers of material and adhesive. In a preferred embodiment, the multiple layers are approximately seven layers. These multiple layers can be broken down into X:VMegan\No delete\86702-98 Divisional Application.doc 4 three portions, namely a top cover 60, a bottom cover 62, and a cushion filler 64 that is positioned between the top and bottom covers.

The top cover 60 includes an outer or top fabric layer 22, a first adhesive web layer 24 and a base layer 26. The top fabric layer 22 is a decorative layer that is the top of the brassiere strap, namely the part of the brassiere strap away from the shoulder of the brassiere wearer. The top fabric layer 22 is made of a stretch or stretchable material. Preferably, the top fabric layer 22 is made of an elastomeric fabric of nylon (such as Antron nylon) and spandex (such as Lycra spandex). It is believed that equivalent fabrics having similar properties could be used as a top fabric layer 22, instead of the preferred elastomeric fabric.

The preferred top fabric layer 22 is knitted from two bars (58% and 32%, for 90% total) trilobal Antron nylon and one bar of dull Lycra spandex. This fabric weighs approximately 275 g/m 2 and has an elongation of about 110 to about 140% in a warp direction and about 50 to about 70% in a weft direction.

The preferred top fabric layer, a raschel elastomeric fabric, is sold by Warshow.

This fabric, as all preferred fabrics selected for use herein, offers superior hand or feel, as well as superior stretch properties for the present objective.

The preferred top layer 22 was selected for its combination of aesthetics and function. This material has the appropriate surface finish to look pleasing, and also has the stretch characteristics required for the strap's function.

The first adhesive web layer 24 is not merely adhesive, but is a film or web of adhesive. This film or web of adhesive is desired since it will readily :*migrate into adjacent layers, such as the top fabric layer 22 and the base layer 26, during the laminating process. In the preferred embodiment, the first adhesive web layer 24 is made of an elastomeric polyurethane nonwoven web e adhesive. Preferably, the adhesive web layer is made of Spunfab PB7435 stretch adhesive sold by Spunfab, Ltd. This stretch adhesive has a melting point from about 228 to about 338aF, a fusing temperature from about 320 to about 340'F, and a tacking temperature from about 304 to about 312 0 F. This web must not discolor at fusing temperature, or the finished product will not have an attractive appearance. It is primarily composed of a ternary resin system polyurethane with a minor amount of additives. This material can withstand washing and dry cleaning, even when heavier amounts of adhesive are used. A typical fabric adhesive, such as a polyamide web adhesive, has a certain X:\Megan\No delete\8702-98 Divisional Application.doc amount of crosswise stretch but little or no stretch in the selvage direction.

Thus, the elongation of the stretchable fabric layers would cause shear stress at the glue line, causing the layers to pull apart and delaminate over time in a flexible, stretch strap.

The base layer 26 is a moldable raschel elastomeric fabric made of nylon and spandex, preferably a Superlook fabric sold by Liberty Fabrics under the Style No. 7130. This fabric is made from about 85% nylon and about spandex, namely a front bar of 40/13 denier S.D. Antron nylon, a middle bar of 40/13 denier S.D. Antron nylon, and a back bar of 140 denier Lycra spandex.

This fabric, as the base layer 26, has been found to have the desired stability during the lamination process, while still providing lengthwise stretch and flexibility to the strap assembly. Basically, it can withstand shrinkage during heating and has a higher melting point than various other synthetic fabrics. The preferred base layer 26 was selected for its combination of cost and function.

15 this material does not require a surface finish because it is enclosed in the .oo.

layered package. This allows a less expensive material to be used. This material does, however, have stretch characteristics that permit the strap to function well.

SeThe bottom cover 62 includes a bottom fabric layer 28. The bottom fabric layer 28 forms the outer or bottom part of the strap that contacts the skin of the brassiere weaier. The bottom fabric layer 28 is preferably made of the same material used for the base layer 26 of the top cover 60, namely a moldable raschel elastomeric fabric, such as Superlook.

The cushion filler 64 preferably consists of a single cushion layer 32.

The cushion layer 32 is preferably made of a nylon/spandex stretch fabric that is known as Duplex fabric F28-279, sold by Milliken Company. This new Duplex fabric is a modified version of a non-stretch Duplex fabric, which is the subject of U.S. Patent No. 4,601,940, to AW Fischer, which 12 issued on July 22, 1986.

The text of that patent is incorporated herein by reference.

This stretch Duplex fabric is preferred since it has a unique construction that provides both the best performance and profile. Specifically, the yarns in this fabric have been found to stand erect and maintain much of their resiliency even after compression. For this reason, this fabric is preferred over other fabrics.

X:AMeganNo delete\86702-98 Divisional Application.doc 6 The thickness of the layer of this fabric should be such that it is not too thick, since the yarns in this fabric have a tendency to lean from their vertical position and, thus, some resiliency may be lost during compression.

Conversely, if each layer of this fabric is too thin, it will not have enough fluff to provide optimal cushioning. Accordingly, the layer of this stretch Duplex fabric in the present cushion strap assembly should preferably be about 0.140 to about 0.170 inches in thickness.

The use of only one layer of Duplex fabric is preferred in the present cushion strap assembly since more than one layer did not perform as well as one layer, partly due to the thicker and perhaps bulky appearance provided by more than one layer. Two or more layers can be used, preferably adhered together by an elastomeric copolymeric nonwoven web adhesive such as Spunfab PB7435 stretch adhesive. However, the use of a single layer is preferred.

The preferred stretch Duplex fabric is knitted in a five bar knitting construction, including a first bar of DuPont filament nylon, a second bar of DuPont Lycra spandex, a third bar of monofilament nylon, a fourth bar of DuPont Lycra spandex and a fifth bar of DuPont filament nylon. This results in a fabric of about 89% nylon and about 11% spandex. This fabric has an 20 elongation of about 148 to about 180% in a warp direction, and of about 50 to ooo o about 65% in a weft direction. It has also been discovered that the Duplex cushion is preferably cut at about 90o to the selvage of the fabric to prevent the finished cushion from rolling up.

It has been found that fiberfill cannot be used as effectively as a cushion layer since fiberfill is not as stable. Also, foam is not desired as a cushion layer since it would decompose during the heating needed in the process of making the cushion strap assembly. Further, as stated above, foam has poor wear life.

This is exacerbated in a stretch strap assembly, as the fiberfill or foam would break down even more quickly when subjected to repeated stretch and release cycles.

A second adhesive web layer 30 is positioned between the top cover or binder layer and the cushion filler 64. Specifically, it is positioned between the base layer 26 and the first cushion layer 32 to secure the top cover 60 and cushion filler 64 together during lamination. The second adhesive layer 30 is X:\Megan\No delete\86702-98 Divisional Application.doc 7 preferably made of Sharnet SH2410-.06 web. Sharnet is a substantially nonstretch adhesive web formed of one hundred percent polyamide adhesive. This is the only layer of the shoulder strap construction that is not designed to stretch substantially in a lengthwise direction. However, when the components of the cushion assembly are heated during lamination, the Sharnet adhesive web layer migrates into the adjacent layers to form the laminate, and will not impede the stretching of those layers. This layer is designed primarily to hold the cushion material in place during processing, and may delaminate substantially during use without compromising the performance of the strap assembly.

A third adhesive web layer 38 is positioned between the cushion filler 64 and the bottom fabric layer 28 to secure them together during lamination.

Specifically, the third adhesive web layer 38 is positioned between the cushion layer 32 and the bottom fabric layer 28. It is preferably made of the same stretch adhesive as first adhesive web layer 24, most preferably Spunfab 15 PB7435 stretch adhesive.

Thus, the cushion strap assembly includes the following layers in sequential order from the top of the brassiere strap: the top fabric layer 22, the first adhesive web layer 24, the base layer 26, the second adhesive web layer the cushion layer 32, the third adhesive web layer 38, and the bottom fabric layer 28.

The top fabric layer 22, the first adhesive web layer 24 and the base layer 26 form the top cover 60 of the strap, and the bottom fabric layer 28 and adhesive layer 38 form the bottom cover 62 of the strap. These top and bottom covers form an enclosure or enclosed sheath that receives the cushion filler 64.

As shown in Figs. 3 and 4, the bottom fabric layer 28 forms the depth of the enclosure. As shown in Fig. 3, the cushion filler 64 does not contact the ends of the enclosure, but instead there is a space 40 at each end. Thus, the cushion filler 64 would move within the enclosure if it were not for the second and third adhesive web layers 30 and 38 (primarily the latter) that secure the cushion filler 64 into position between the top and bottom covers. The space accommodates some of the stretching of the cushion filler 64 that occurs during the lamination process, as well as during wearing and washing of the shoulder strap. Also, the construction of the cushion filler 64 and the assembly, and the nature of the materials, permits the stretching and twisting that normally occurs X:MeganNo deeete\86702-98 Divisional Application.doc 8 during both washing and wearing.

The formed cushion strap assembly provides a sleek strap having a pleasing aesthetic appearance. It has been found through preliminary tests that this appearance remains after repeated washings. This is apparently due to the materials used and the construction of the cushion strap assembly.

Referring to Figs. 5 and 6, this cushion strap lends itself to the making of several cushion strap assemblies and resultant straps at the same time. First, the top cover 60 is laminated into a binder layer. Specifically, the top fabric layer 22, the first adhesive web layer 24 and the base layer 26 are laminated together to form a binder layer. The components of the cushion filler 64 can optionally separately laminated together.

The cushion filler 64 is then cut to the desired shape, preferably an elongate oval or biscuit-shaped cushion. Multiple cushions are then placed in trays, and fed to an alignment station. The laminated cushions are positioned on the laminated binder layer and second adhesive web layer 30. Third adhesive layer 38 and bottom fabric layer 28 are then placed on top of the cushions, to form the layer structure of the strap. Individual strap assemblies are then molded and laminated together, and cut out, around the cushions.

The cushion filler 64 and the top cover 60 and bottom are not compressed beyond the normal compression associated with lamination.

Each component's compression, if any, is the same as that of the other components so that each component is of the same density, thus providing a good profile and appearance.

The preferred device and method for forming these shoulder straps can be understood with reference to the preferred device depicted in Fig. 7. The laminated binder layer (the top fabric layer 22, the first adhesive web layer 24 and the base layer 26, laminated together), slit to the proper width, is fed from roll 102. The bottom fabric layer 28 and the third adhesive layer 38 are fed as a web from roll 104. Preferably, a paper web is fed from roll 106. Each layer is automatically unwound with core drive motors within a loop deadband to minimize tension in the webs in subsequent processing. These layers are fed first to cushion loading station 110.

At cushion loading station 110, cushion feeder and ejector 108 places cushions 111 (cushions 111 preferably include second adhesive layer X:\Megan\No delete\86702-98 Divisional Application.doc 9 between binder layer (22,24,26) on one side, and third adhesive layer 38 and bottom fabric layer 28, on the other side. The cushions have preferably been loaded into cushion feeder and ejector 108 by hand. Contemporaneously, binder layer (22,24,26) is heated to process temperature (preferably about 370 0 F) by heated platen 113. This causes the cushions 111 to attach to the binder layer. The resulting fabric sandwich is fed to a mold and cut station 112.

The mold and cut station 112 is able to mold, laminate, and cut out multiple finished shoulder strap assemblies in a single processing station.

The mold and cut station 112 includes a two-level device 114 mounted on a hydraulically operated ram 115. Two-level device 114 includes outer, upper cutting forged steel die 116 (or dies) and inner, lower aluminum springloaded mold (or molds) 118. As device 114 is lowered toward the fabric sandwich, mold 118 contacts the fabric sandwich first. The mold or molds 118 (preferably six or eight) are brought into contact with the fabric sandwich to a 15 precisely-controlled height to provide a' process mold pressure of approximately 8 psi by compression of two springs under each mold. Device 114 is stopped for a short period of time (preferably about fifteen seconds), while mold 118 shapes and heats the fabric to laminate the layers and form the strap shape about the cushions. Mold 118 preferably has a cavity therein that is complementary to the shape of the cushion, while the other mating surfaces of this station are flat. A standard cartridge resistance heater is preferably adjoined to the cavity to heat it to molding temperature (preferably about 3600F). In addition, mold and cut station 112 preferably includes a heated cutting plate 119 (preferably about 290OF).

After a short delay, die or dies 116 lowers about mold 118 until it contacts and perforates the fabric sandwich. The ram 115 is moved to an adjustable hard limit which allows the strap assembly to be cut from the web by the dies 116. Preferably, die 116 is dulled at two or more places, such as at two opposing ends, to leave two points of attachment between the shoulder strap assembly and the scrap fabric. This allows the sandwich to be drawn downstream to a subsequent station, where the strap assemblies can be removed from the scrap fabric with light pressure, preferably by hand. The kraft paper web from roll 106 is provided to compensate for uneven cutting height of the dies 118.

X:Wegan\No delete\80702-98 Divisonal Applictiondoc This mold and cut station 112, being a single station, provides enhanced fabric alignment and processing in less space. In a machine having separate molding and cutting stations, the heat of molding can cause the materials to shrink. Different materials shrink differently when exposed to heat, and even different lots or batches of the same type of material can respond differently to high temperatures. Thus, the heat of the molding process can cause misalignment between the layers, rendering the finished product commercially unacceptable. The additional step of transferring the molded fabric to the cutting station increases the opportunity for misalignment and inaccurate molding, and subsequent cutting, of the cushion. The present invention addresses these problems, by consolidating the molding and cutting operations into a single station.

The preferred temperature for use in the molding operation of the mold and cut station 112 is about 340°F to about 380 0 F. Most preferred is a 15 temperature of about 360 0 F. Heated cutting plate 119 is preferably operated at about 280 0 F. In addition, at these preferred conditions, the cushions are ideally molded for a dwell time from about 12 to about 18 seconds, with about seconds being most preferred.

A fabric sandwich is typically fed through a machine such as, for 20 example, by a single set of clamps at the downstream end of the material.

ooooo S* These clamps are typically part of an automatic feed station at which the proper length of material will be pulled through the machine at each stage. This station S"draws the strap material a preset distance at each machine cycle to maintain the proper component alignment.

However, when using fabrics that stretch in the machine direction, like those of the present invention, a single set of clamps at the downstream end of the fabric pathway is not effective. These clamps would cause the fabric to stretch, and the alignment of the layers would fail. Accordingly, the present invention includes an improved drive system to move the fabric sandwich of the present invention through the processing stations.

This drive system, a geared dual roller arrangement, is used to eliminate shear in the fabric sandwich by driving top and bottom rollers at the same speed and distance. The web is accelerated, driven at constant velocity, and decelerated by a move command generated by the programmable logic X:WeganXo delete\M702-98 DMskinai Applicabon.doc 11 controller 142. This trapezoidal move profile minimizes "shock" (affecting stretch) to the web, and is adjustable to compensate for variation in material, especially elongation in a warp direction. The preferred ratio of output feed length to input feed length is about 1 to about 1.05, depending on the controlled amount of tension required to process the web. The trapezoidal move profile is also scaled accordingly.

As shown in Figure 7, drive system 130 includes first drive 132, located upstream of mold and cut station 112, and second drive 134, located downstream of mold and cut station 112. First drive 132 and second drive 134 both include a servo motor 136 belt driving a geared knurled nip roller 138 seated above the fabric sandwich. Another driven nip roller 140 is mounted directly below and synchronized with each driven nip roller 138, and the fabric sandwich passes between pair of nip rollers. The upper and lower nip rollers have a slight knurl to drive materials without slippage, but to avoid 'picking' the 15 materials with an overly aggressive knurled surface.

Servo motors 136 are synchronized together so that driven nip rollers 138, 140 on infeed and outfeed are rotated equally and at the same time. This moves the fabric sandwich evenly, without stretching or with a small, controlled se 6amount of tension, through mold and cut station 112. This drive system ensures optimal results and a minimum number of rejects due to misalignment, stretching or buckling of layers in the finished strap assembly. The preferred nip roll force is about 55 pounds, or about 7 psi, over the typical eight inch width of *"the fabric sandwich. In addition, it is preferred that guides 117 are located around the mold and cut station 112 to keep the cushions 111 centered with respect to die 116.

Furthermore, drive system 130 can be designed to allow automatic adjustment of web feed length on each cycle to compensate for material shrinkage or elongation. This active positioning reduces material-related defects, and is preferably accomplished by the addition of photoelectric sensors (not shown) within drive system 130 to detect reference marks on the web.

Programmable logic controller 142 can use the detected information to adjust drive feed length while maintaining the preferred output feed length/input feed length ratios.

Having thus described the present invention with particular references to X:UAegan\No delete\8670298 Divisional Applicationdoc 12 the preferred forms thereof, it will be obvious that various changes and modifications may be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention as defined by the appended claims.

9* 4 0400: X:\M~egan\No delete\86702-g8 DivslonaI Appiacation.doc

Claims (4)

1. 2. The device according to claim 1, wherein the mold and cut station includes a device having an upper cutting blade and a lower mold.
2. 3. The device according to claim 2, wherein the lower mold is adapted to contact, heat and laminate the cushion strap assembly before the cutting blade contacts and cuts the cushion strap assembly.
3. 4. The device according to any one of the preceeding claims, including a first drive and a second drive located on opposite sides of the mold and cut station. Soo:% Oe 5. The device according to claim 4, wherein the first drive is synchronized with the second drive to move the cushion strap assembly to and from the mold and cut station under minimal tension.
4. 6. A device for manufacturing a laminated cushion strap assembly, substantially as herein described with reference to any one of the embodiments in the accompanying drawings. Dated: 15 August 2001 PHILLIPS ORMONDE FITZPATRICK Attorneys for: PLAYTEX APPAREL, INC. XAMegan\No delete\86702-96 Divisional Applicallon.doc