AU2003254356B2 - Skin care cosmetic compositions containing carboxyalkylates of branched alcohols and/or alkoxylates thereof - Google Patents

Description

WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 SKIN CARE COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING CARBOXYALKYLATES OF BRANCHED ALCOHOLS AND/OR ALKOXYLATES THEREOF Cosmetic methods and compositions for conditioning human skin by topical application to the skin of cosmetic compositions which contain carboxyalkylates of branched alcohols, and/or alkoxylates thereof alone or in combination with astringent salts.

Sebum is skin oil which is produced by sebocytes (cells of the sebaceous glands in the skin) and is then secreted to the skin surface. A frequent and undesirable skin condition is "oily skin," the condition which results from the excessive amount of sebum on the skin. Oily skin is associated with a shiny, undesirable appearance and a disagreeable tactile sensation.

This condition affects various age groups. Therefore, cosmetic products which provide both sebum control and anti-aging benefits are highly desirable.

In hot and humid climates, facial sweat derived from eccrine glands can interact with sebum to amplify the perception of oily/greasy skin. Even in individuals with low-normal levels of sebum, sweat can interact with surface sebum to make an individual perceive their skin to be more oily. Therefore, cosmetic products which provide both sebum control and antiperspirant benefits are highly desirable.

The prior art discloses branched alcohols as compounds which provide skin benefits such as sebum suppression. For example, Burger et al., U.S. Patent No. 5,756,109 relates to the use of a WO 2004/006883 PCTIEP2003/007649 -2 noncyclic polyunsaturated diterpene alcohol, geranyl geraniol, in combination with a retinol as a skin conditioning composition. This patent discloses sebum suppression as one advantage of the branched alcohol in combination withretinol.

Hata et al., U.S. Patent No. 5,344,850 discloses topical compositions containing a q 8 saturated or unsaturated alcohol with four methyl branches for treating or preventing acne.

Derivatives of linear and branched alcohols have also been disclosed in the prior art for a variety of uses, ranging from industrial to personal cleansing. For example, Lynch, U.S.

Patent No. 5,328,953 relates to rubber compositions including alkoxyalkanoic acid and processes for making same; Medyna et al., "Cyanoethylation of Alcohols, Sintez PAV (Moscow, USSR 1989) relates to cyanoethylation of alcohols with acrylonitrile.

Abe et al., "Antibacterial and Fungicidal Activities of Heavy Metal Salts of Some Beta-alkyloxypropionic Acids,"A lecture delivered at the VIIIth I.S.F. Congress (Budapest 1966) relates to the growth inhibiting powers of the cupric, mercuric and silver salts of certain beta-alkoxy propionic acids.

WO 9918928, assigned to The Proctor Gamble Company, discloses personal cleansing compositions comprising branched surfactant systems having a hydrophobic group and a hydrophilic group. The hydrophobic group comprises mid-chain branched and linear surfactant compounds. The hydrophilic group is selected from the group consisting of sulfate and/or ethoxylates thereof.

Springman, U.S. Patent No. 3,992,443 discloses a process for the carboxymethylation of alcohols or ether alcohols in a single WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 3 stage, using both straight chain and branched alcohols as suitable starting alcohols.

Cripe et al., US Patent 6,020,303 discloses detergent surfactant compositions derived from mid-chain branched primary alkyl hydrophobic groups and hydrophilic groups, specifically, alkyl sulfates for application in laundry and cleaning compositions.

Birtwistle et al., US Patent No. 5,093,112 discloses topical cleansing (detergent) compositions containing an alcohol and an alkyl or alkenyl phosphate salt.

The applicants' co-pending U.S. patent application Serial No.

09/872,897, filed June 1, 2001, discloses cosmetic methods and compositions for conditioning human skin by topical application to the skin of cosmetic compositions containing carboxymethylates of branched alcohols, and/or ethoxylates thereof. While carboxymethyl iso-alcohols are effective oil control agents, a need still exists for even more effective agents, allowing the use of smaller amounts in the composition, and resulting in overall cost efficiency. A need still exists to minimize an unpleasant odour, characteristic of vinyl or a "new car smell," sometimes associated with carboxymethylates of branched alcohols, thereby making application in cosmetic skin conditioning compositions more suitable. Moreover, a need still exists for an agent with better colour which, again, is more suitable for cosmetic applications.

The prior art cited above does not seem to suggest or disclose cosmetic compositions or methods for skin conditioning which avoid the shortcomings of branched alcohols and WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 4 carboxymethylates thereof. Therefore, a need remains for novel compounds and cosmetic compositions that retain or enhance the beneficial effects of branched alcohols and carboxymethylates thereof in relation to sebum suppression and skin conditioning, while avoiding the unpleasant odour and water-insolubility associated with such alcohols.

Not suggested or disclosed are cosmetic compositions or methods for skin conditioning which further improve the effects and perceived effects of branched alcohols and carboxyalkylates of branched alcohols.

Cosmetic make-up compositions containing antiperspirants to improve the staying power of the colour are disclosed in L'Oreal's Bazin et al., U.S. Patent No. 6,251,412. Use of antiperspirant active ingredients for the manufacture of preparations for removal of sebum from the skin, in particular for the removal and clearing of comedones, for avoiding comedone formation, for the prophylaxis and treatment of mild forms of acne, and for the prophylaxis and control of seborrhea, is disclosed in Herpens et al., U.S. Published Patent Application 2002/0119109.

A combination of astringent salts and carboxyalkylates of branched alcohols has not been previously used for improving skin feel through a combined synergistic effect of sebum suppression and sweat suppression. Therefore, a need remains for novel cosmetic compositions that retain or enhance the beneficial effects of carboxyalkylates of branched alcohols in relation to sebum suppression and skin conditioning, while WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 5 providing improved perception of reduced shine or oily/greasy skin.

Thus, according to a first aspect of the invention, there is provided a compound and compositions including a compound of the formula A: R-O-M (A) wherein: R is a branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having at least 7 carbon atoms, and at least two branches; 0 is an oxygen atom; and M is (-(CH 2 )pO)n- (CH2)mC02X where n is 0 or an integer between 1 and 7, m is an integer between 2 and 4, p is an integer between 2 and 4; and X is hydrogen, a methyl group, an ethyl group, or a cation.

The cation is preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium, lithium, potassium, calcium, copper, magnesium, manganese, strontium, sulfur, zinc, and amines. Preferably, X is hydrogen or a cation.

In a further aspect there are provided methods of using and processes for making compounds of formula In one aspect, an inventive processinvolves reacting a branched alcohol with acrylonitrile, followed by reacting the alkyl ether nitrile with aqueous solution of acid, such as hydrochloric acid or sulfuric acid, to form carboxyethyl isoalcohol. The carboxyethyl iso-alcohol may further be reacted with an alcohol or base to form compound of formula A WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 6 In another aspect, the present invention provides a process of synthesising a compound of the formula A comprising: combining a branched alcohol with a compound selected from chloroacetic acid, chloropropionic acid, chlorobutyric acid, and mixtures thereof to form a heterogeneous reaction mixture; stirring and heating said heteogeneous reaction mixture at slight reflux under nitrogen; cooling to room temperature; filtering and washing to form a paste; dissolving said paste in water; acidifying said dissolved paste with HC1; extracting said acidified paste with chloroform or hexane; and removal of chloroform to form said compound of formula A.

Advantageously, the inventive composition includes an astringent salt. Suitable astringent salts includealuminum hydroxide, aluminum halides, aluminum hydroxyhalides, zirconyl oxyhalides, zirconyl hydroxyhalides and mixtures thereof. More generally, aluminum salts have the general formula A1 2 (OH)xQy--XH20; wherein Q is chlorine, bromine or iodine; wherein x is 2 to 5, x+y=6 and x and y do not need to be integers; and wherein X is about 1 to about 6.

Preferably, the skin care cosmetic compositions include an astringent salt selected from the group consisting ofaluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrex, aluminum chlorohydrex PEG, aluminum chlorohydrex PG, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrex PEG, aluminum dichlorohydrex PG, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 7 sesquichlorohydrex PEG, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PG, aluminum sulfate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex GLY, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex GLY, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate GLY, and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate GLY, and mixtures thereof.

The present invention further includes a skin care cosmetic composition comprising compound A in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle. The cosmetic composition may further include retinoids.

The present invention also includes a cosmetic method of controlling or preventing an oily skin condition and/or perception thereof and preventing or controlling sebum secretion from sebocytes, especially in the facial area, by applying to the skin the inventive compositions.

The invention also includes a cosmetic method of reducing, preventing or controlling sebum secretion fromsebocytes by applying the in inventive composition. The inventive methods are also useful for reducing or preventing secretion from the apocrine glands.

The invention also includes a cosmetic method of stimulating collagen synthesis by fibroblasts in the skin, by applying to the skin the inventive composition.

WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 8 The inventive methods and compositions provide control of sebum secretion from sebocytes, improved oil control, improved skin feel, they prevent shine and stickiness. They also provide anti-microbial activity against bacteria associated with acne, as well as providing anti-aging benefits which result in reduced appearance of wrinkles and aged skin, improved skin colour, treatment of photoaged skin, improvement in skin's radiance and clarity and finish, and an overall healthy and youthful appearance of the skin.

Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use are to be understood as modified by the word "about." All amounts are by weight of the oil-in-water emulsion, unless otherwise specified.

As used herein, the term "comprising" means including, made up of, composed of, consisting and/or consisting essentially of.

The term "skin" as used herein includes the skin on the face, neck, chest, back, arms, hands, legs and scalp.

The term "suppression" as used herein in relation to sebum and/or sweat means the complete prevention, control of secretion, or a degree of reduction of the formation of sebum and/or sweat, respectively.

The inventive methods and compositions include a carboxyalkylate of a branched alcohol, and/or alkoxylates WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 9 thereof (hereinafter "compound and are of the general formula A: R-O-M (A) wherein: R is a branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having at least 7 carbon atoms, generally from 9 to 15 atoms, and at least two branches; 0 is an oxygen atom; and M is (-(CH 2 )pO)n-(CH2)mC02X, where n is 0 or an integer between 1 and 7, m is an integer between 2 and 4, p is an integer between 2 and 4; and X is hydrogen, a methyl group, an ethyl group, or a cation.

The cation may be selected from the group consisting of sodium, lithium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, manganese, sulfur, and amines including quartenary alkyl amines and polyhydroxy amines, but is not limited thereto.

Preferably, X is a hydrogen or a cation and M is:

-CH

2

CH

2

CO

2 X (n is 0, m is 2)

-CH

2

CH

2

CH

2

CH

2 CO2X (n is 0, m is 4) -CH2CH20-CH 2

CH

2

-C

2

CCO

2 X (n is 1, p is 2, m is or

-CH

2 CH20-CH 2

CHC

2

CH

2 2CO 2 X (n is 1, p is 2, m is 4).

More preferably, X is a hydrogen or a cation and M is:

-CH

2

CH

2

CO

2 X (n is 0, m is 2) or -CH2CH20-CH2CH2CO2X (n is 1, p is 2, m is 2).

WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 10 The branched alkyl chain of the present invention is preferably derived from a branched alcohol having 7 to carbon atoms, more preferably at least 9 carbon atoms and at least two branches, as noted above. The preferred alcohols from which the inventive compositions are derived contain a total of at least 10 carbon atoms in order to obtain maximum efficacy, with 13 carbon atoms most preferred. The preferred alcohols from which the inventive compositions are derived, contain from 2 to 5 branches, more preferably 3 to 4 branches, in order to maximize efficacy at minimum cost. The branches may be methyl branches, ethyl branches, or propyl branches.

Preferably, the branches are methyl branches or ethyl branches, most preferably methyl branches, due to reduced odour and enhanced efficacy.

The alcohol may be a mixture of various chain length alcohols.

Such mixtures are suitable in deriving the inventive compositions, as long as the predominant alcohol (at least about 70%) in the mix contains a total of at least 7, preferably at least 9, optimally 13, carbon atoms and at least two branches.

Examples of preferred compounds of formula A are carboxyethylates of branched alcohols and/or ethoxylates thereof. The most preferred compounds of formula A are carboxyethyl tridecylisoalcohols (TDCE) and salts thereof.

Carboxyethylates of branched alcohols may be synthesized by the following process.

WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 11 (branched alcohol) (acrylonitrile) R OH CH 2

CHCN

V

HCI

R O CH-CH 2 CN 30 ROCH2-CH 2 C02H (alkyl or alkenyl oxypropionitrile)(carboxyethyl iso-alcohol) Generally, carboxyethylation of the branched alcohol involves the addition of a carboxy-ethyl group to the branched alcohol.

Compound of formula A, is derived from branched alcohols which are commercially available, e.g. from Exxon or Henkel.

Step 1, etherification, involves first directly adding an acrylonitrile (available, for example, from Aldrich Chemicals) to the branched alcohol to form an alkyl or alkenyl ether nitrile, also referred to as alkyl or alkenyl oxypropionitrile. The acrylonitrile may be used in a 1:1 molar ratio to the branched alcohol, or in excess in order to drive the reaction forward and enhance yield. In one preferred embodiment, the molar ratio of branched alcohol to acrylonitrile is 1:1.5.

In the following step, Step 2, the alkyl or alkenyl ether nitrile is reacted with an aqueous solution of an acid, such as hydrochloric acid or sulfuric acid, at room/ambient temperature, over potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide catalyst, to yield carboxyethyl isoalcohol.

WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 12 The carboxyethyl isoalcohol may be further reacted with an alcohol or base, such as MeOH or NaOH, to form an R-O-M structure as discussed above, such as wherein X is a methyl group or the cation sodium.

The salt forms of compound A (where M is a cation in formula A) are preferred because they are water soluble for penetration through the skin. Preferably, sodium salt is used because of commercial availability.

Tridecylcarboxyethylate, TDCE, is the most preferred carboxyalkylate of branched alcohol compound, due to water solubility and oil solubility properties which translate into effective skin activity and further to cost effectiveness due to the ability to use a smaller amount of active to gain a given degree of benefit. Additionally, TDCE has more acceptable odour and colour characteristics than other similar molecules, particularly TDCM (tridecylcarboxymethylate).

Compound A of the present invention retains or enhances the beneficial sebum suppression qualities of branched alcohols and methoxylates thereof, while eliminating the unpleasant odour and colour. Moreover, compound A is an anionic surfactant, thus providing a negative charge that aids in binding the surfactant onto the skin's surface. The water soluble characteristic effectuates delivery into the skin.

Moreover, as compared to prior art surfactants such as sulfate groups on branched alcohols, the carboxyl group in compound A is a better metal chelator and milder to the skin due to its relatively low acidity (pKa of approximately The carboxyl group has a lower molecular weight than a sulfate group, thus WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 13 lower amounts of the carboxyl group will yield more beneficial results than the sulfate group.

Compounds of formula A are employed in the inventive methods and compositions in amounts of about 0.001% to about preferably about 0.1% to about 20%, most preferably about 0.1% to about Compositions employing compounds of formula A may optionally, but preferably, include astringent salts.In the present invention, the inclusion of antiperspirant compounds, in particular astringent salts, in a topical skin cream having carboxyalkylates of branched alcohols and alkoxylates thereof, reduces the perception of oily/greasy skin in the dermal areas having eccrine glands, especially face, arms, and legs. Thus, the perception of oily/greasy skin, especially facial skin, can be indirectly controlled by reducing the amount of facial sweating and controlling sebum, i.e. through suppression of sweat and sebum secretion.

The astringent salts may be inorganic or organic salts of aluminum, zirconium, zinc and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the astringent salts are employed herein in particulate form, hydrophilic porous particles, of less than about 100 microns in size, preferably about 3 microns to about microns in size. Salts useful as astringents or as components of astringent aluminum complexes include aluminum hydroxide, aluminum halides, aluminum hydroxyhalides, zirconyl oxyhalides, zirconyl hydroxyhalides and mixtures of these salt materials.

WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 14 Aluminum salts of this type include aluminum chloride and the aluminum hydroxyhalides having the general formula Al2(OH)xQy--XH20 where Q is chlorine, bromine or iodine, where x is 2 to 5, x+y=6 and x and y do not need to be integers; and where X is about 1 to 6. For example, aluminum chlorohydrate, having the formula [A1 2

(OH)

5 C1]--

XH

2 O, is preferred, due to its ready commercial availability and relatively low cost.

Several types of complexes utilizing the above astringent salts are known in the antiperspirant art. For example, U.S.

Pat. No. 3,792,068 (Luedders et discloses complexes of aluminum, zirconium and amino acids such as glycine.

Complexes reported therein and similar structures are commonly known as ZAG. The ZAG complexes ordinarily have an Al:Zr ratio of from about 1.67 to 12.5 and a Metal:Cl ratio of from about 0.73 to 1.93. The preferred amino acid for preparing such ZAG-type complexes is glycine of the formula CW(NH 2

)COOH.

Spherical ZAG, with particle size 1 to 100 microns, is especially preferred.

More specifically, the following is a list of astringent salts which may be useful for the present invention and which have approved listings under the United States Food Drug Administration, Federal Register. They include aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrex, aluminum chlorohydrex PEG, aluminum chlorohydrex PG, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrex PEG, aluminum dichlorohydrex PG, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PEG, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PG, WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 15 aluminum sulfate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex GLY (abbreviation for glycine), aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex GLY, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate GLY, and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate GLY.

Also suitable are: potassium aluminium sulphate, also known as alum (KA (SO4) 2 12H 2 0), aluminium undecylenoyl collagen amino acid, sodium aluminium lactate+ aluminium sulphate Al2(SO 4 3 +Na 2 HAl(OOCCHOHCH 3 sodium aluminium chlorohydroxylactate, aluminium bromohydrate (Al 2 Br(OH)5nH 2 0), aluminium chloride (A1C136H 2 0), complexes of zinc salt and of sodium salt, complexes of lanthanum and cerium, and the aluminium salt of lipoamino acids OA1--(OH) 2 with R=C 6

/C

11 and R'=amino acid).

Preferably, the antiperspirant is an aluminium salt and, more preferably, it is chosen from potassium aluminium sulphate and aluminium chlorohydrate.

Amounts of the active astringent salt may range from about 0.000001% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.10% to about WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 16 18%, more preferably about 1% to about 15%, andoptimally about 2% to about 3% by weight of the composition.

Aluminum chlorohydrate, referred to herein in shortened form as ACH, is the most preferred astringent salt for the purposes of the present invention, due to its wide commercial availability and relatively low cost.

The inventive compositions may also include a retinoid.

Retinoids increase collagen synthesis by dermal fibroblasts.

This results in protection from sun damage and smoothening of wrinkled skin. Addition of retinoids to compound A provided improved inhibition of lipogenesis; as well as increased collagen synthesis in comparison to compound A alone. The term "retinoids" as used herein includes retinoic acid, retinol, retinal, and retinyl esters. Included in the term "retinoic acid" are 13-cis retinoic acid and all-trans retinoic acid.

The term "retinol" as used herein includes the following isomers of retinol: all-trans-retinol, 13-cis-retinol, 11cis-retinol, 9-cis-retinol and 3,4-didehydro-retinol.

Preferred isomers are all-trans-retinol, 13-cis-retinol, 3,4didehydro-retinol, and 9-cis-retinol. Most preferred is alltrans-retinol, due to its wide commercial availability.

Retinyl ester is an ester of retinol. The term "retinol' has been defined above. Retinyl esters suitable for use in the present invention are q-C 30 esters of retinol, preferably Q- WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 17

C

20 esters, and most preferably Q, C 3 and C 16 esters because they are more commonly available.

Examples of suitable retinyl esters include but are not limited to: retinyl palmitate, retinyl formate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinyl butyrate, retinyl valerate, retinyl isovalerate, retinyl hexanoate, retinyl heptanoate, retinyl octanoate, retinyl nonanoate, retinyl decanoate, retinyl undecanoate, retinyl laurate, retinyl tridecanoate, retinyl myristate, retinyl pentadecanoate, retinyl heptadecanoate, retinyl stearate, retinyl isostearate, retinyl nonadecanoate, retinyl arachidonate, retinyl behenate, retinyl linoleate, retinyl oleate, retinyl lactate, retinyl glycolate, retinyl hydroxy caprylate, retinyl hydroxy laurate, retinyl tartarate.

The retinoids in the present invention are typically present in an amount of from 0.001% to 10%, preferably from 0.01% to and most preferably from 0.01% to 0.05% by weight of the composition.

Compounds of formula A employed in the inventive methods and compositions are liquid, and thus the invention is effective even in the absence of the carrier. However, the compositions according to the invention comprise a cosmetically acceptable vehicle to act as a diluant, dispersant or carrier of compound A, so as to facilitate their distribution when the composition is applied to the skin.

The vehicle may be aqueous, anhydrous or an emulsion.

Preferably, the compositions are aqueous or an emulsion, especially water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion. Water when WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 18 present will be in amounts which may range from 5% to 99%, preferably from 40% to 90%, optimally between 60% and 90% by weight.

Besides water, relatively volatile solvents may also serve as carriers within compositions of the present invention. Most preferred are monohydric Q-C 3 alkanols. These include ethyl alcohol, methyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol. The amount of monohydric alkanol may range from 1% to 70%, preferably from 10% to 50%, optimally between 15% and 40% by weight.

Emollient materials may also serve as cosmetically acceptable carriers. These may be in the form of silicone oils and synthetic esters. Amounts of the emollients may range anywhere from 0.1% to 50%, preferably between 1% and 20% by weight.

Silicone oils may be divided into the volatile and nonvolatile variety. The term "volatile" as used herein refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature. Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. Linear volatile silicone materials generally have viscosities less than about 5 centistokes at 25CC while cyclic materials typically have viscosities of less than about 10 centistokes.

Non-volatile silicone oils useful as an emollient material include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers. The essentially non-volatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes with viscosities of from about 5 to WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 19 about 25 million centistokes at 25°C. Among the preferred non-volatile emollients useful in the present compositions are the polydimethyl siloxanes having viscosities from about 10 to about 400 centistokes at 25 0

C.

Among the suitable ester emollients are: (1)Alkenyl or alkyl esters of fatty acids having 10 carbon atoms. Examples thereof include isoarachidyl neopentanoate, isononyl isonanonoate, oleyl myristate, oleyl stearate, and oleyl oleate.

(2)Ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols.

(3)Polyhydric alcohol esters. Ethylene glycol mono and difatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol 2000 monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerol polyfatty esters, ethoxylated glyceryl monstearate, 1,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyox ethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters are satisfactory polyhydric alcohol esters.

(4)Wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti, myristyl myristate, stearyl stearate and arachidyl behenate.

WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 20 esters, of which cholesterol fatty acid esters are examples.

Fatty acids having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms may also be included as cosmetically acceptable carriers for compositions of this invention. Illustrative of this category are pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, hydroxystearic, oleic, linoleic, ricinoleic, arachidic, behenic and erucic acids.

Humectants of the polyhydric alcohol type may also be employed as cosmetically acceptable carriers in compositions of this invention. The humectant aids in increasing the effectiveness of the emollient, reduces scaling, stimulates removal of builtup scale and improves skin feel. Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerol, polyalkylene glycols and more preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2,6hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof. For best results the humectant is preferably propylene glycol or sodium hyaluronate. The amount of humectant may range anywhere from 0.5% to 30%, preferably between 1% and 15% by weight of the composition.

Thickeners may also be utilized as part of the cosmetically acceptable carrier of compositions according to the present invention. Typical thickeners include crosslinked acrylates Carbopol 982), hydrophobically-modified acrylates (e.g.

Carbopol 1382), cellulosic derivatives and natural gums. Among WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 21 useful cellulosic derivatives are sodium carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and hydroxymethyl cellulose. Natural gums suitable for the present invention include guar, xanthan, sclerotium, carrageenan, pectin and combinations of these gums. Amounts of the thickener may range from 0.0001% to usually from 0.001% to optimally from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight.

Collectively, the water, solvents, silicones, esters, fatty acids, humectants and/or thickeners will constitute the cosmetically acceptable carrier in amounts from 1% to 99.9%, preferably from 80% to 99% by weight.

An oil or oily material may be present, together with an emulsifier to provide either a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion, depending largely on the average hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of the emulsifier employed.

Various types of additional active ingredients may be present in cosmetic compositions of the present invention. Actives are defined as skin benefit agents other than emollients and other than ingredients that merely improve the physical characteristics of the composition. Although not limited to this category, general examples include additional anti-sebum ingredients such as talcs and silicas, as well as alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, poly-hydroxy acids, benzoyl peroxide, zinc salts, and sunscreens.

WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 22 Beta-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid, for example. Zinc pyrithione is an example of zinc salts useful in the compositions of the present invention.

Sunscreens include those materials commonly employed to block ultraviolet light. Illustrative compounds are the derivatives of PABA, cinnamate and salicylate. For example, avobenzophenone (Parsol 1784~), octyl methoxycinnamate and 2hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone (also known as oxybenzone) can be used. Octyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone are commercially available under the trademarks, Parsol MCX and Benzophenone-3, respectively. The exact amount of sunscreen employed in the compositions can vary depending upon the degree of protection desired from the sun's UV radiation.

Many cosmetic compositions, especially those containing water, must be protected against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Anti-microbial compounds, such as triclosan, and preservatives are, therefore, necessary. Suitable preservatives include alkyl esters of phydroxybenzoic acid, hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds. Particularly preferred preservatives of this invention are methyl paraben, propyl paraben, phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol. Preservatives will usually be employed in amounts ranging from about 0.1% to 2% by weight of the composition.

The compounds and compositions according to the invention are intended primarily as a product for topical application to human skin, especially as an agent for controlling or WO 2004/006883 PCTIEP2003/007649 23 preventing excessive sebum secretion. Suppression of sebum provides multiple benefits, including: improved skin condition; reduction of an unpleasant appearance and feel of greasy skin; reduction and/or prevention of acne, rosacea, seborrhea, oily scalp, oily/greasy hair, and dandruff. Suppression of sweat provides multiple benefits, including improved skin condition and reduction of an unpleasant appearance and feel of shiny skin. Suppression of both sebum and sweat enhances the multiple benefits of suppression of sebum and suppression of sweat, to the point of improving the perception of oily or greasy or shiny skin.

In use, a quantity of the composition, for example from 1 to 100 ml, is applied to exposed areas of the skin, from a suitable container or applicator and, if necessary, it is then spread over and/or rubbed into the skin using the hand or fingers or a suitable device.

The present invention also includes a cosmetic method of controlling or preventing an oily skin condition, especially in the facial area, by applying to the skin the inventive composition. In another aspect, the present invention includes a cosmetic method of controlling, preventing, or treating oily or greasy hair.

The invention also includes a cosmetic method of reducing, preventing or controlling sebum secretion from sebocytes by applying the inventive composition.

WO 2004/006883 PCTiEP2003/007649 24 The invention also includes a cosmetic method of reducing or controlling the perception of oily or greasy skin by applying to the skin the inventive composition.

The invention also includes a cosmetic method of stimulating collagen synthesis by fibroblasts in the skin, by applying to the skin the inventive composition.

The inventive methods and compositions provide control of sebum secretion from sebocytes, improved oil control and improved skin feel, and prevent shine and stickiness, while also providing anti-microbial activity against bacteria associated with acne and, generally, controlling microbial activity of bacteria on the skin surface, as well as providing anti-aging benefits which result in reduced appearance of wrinkles and aged skin, improved skin colour, treatment of photoaged skin, improvement in skin's radiance and clarity and finish, and an overall healthy and youthful appearance of the skin. Additionally, the compositions of the present invention reduce or prevent secretion from the apocrine glands.

The cosmetic skin composition of the invention can be in any form, e.g. formulated as a toner, gel, lotion, a fluid cream, or a cream. The composition can be packaged in a suitable container to suit its viscosity and intended use by the consumer. For example, a lotion or fluid cream can be packaged in a bottle or a roll-ball applicator or a propellant-driven aerosol device or a container fitted with a pump suitable for finger operation. When the composition is a cream, it can simply be stored in a non-deformable bottle or squeeze container, such as a tube or a lidded jar. The invention WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 25 accordingly also provides a closed container containing a cosmetically acceptable composition as herein defined.

The composition may also be included in capsules such as those described in U.S. Patent No. 5,063,057, incorporated by reference herein.

EXAMPLES

The following specific examples invention, but the invention is The branched alcohols listed in were used in the Examples, were further illustrate the not limited thereto.

the Table below, some of which obtained from Exxon: TABLE 1 Trade Name Exxal 7 Branching Mixture of branched and straight chain isomers, about 40% dimethyl pentanols.

Exxal 8 Methyl branching only, at least about 38% dimethyl hexanols.

Exxal 9 Exxal 10 Exxal 11 About 33% dimethyl heptanol Trimethyl heptanols and dimethyl octanols About 36% dimethyl nonanol Exxal 12 Exxal 13 Trimethyl nonanols Tetramethyl nonanols and trimethyl decanols Nonanol About 80% 3,5,5-trimethylhexanol Acropol 35~ About 70% C 1 3 about 63% dimethyl branching WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 26 Exxal®13 and Acropol 35 are preferred alcohols, and Exxal13 is the more preferred alcohol.

EXAMPLE 1 This example provided carboxymethylation of an alcohol, which yields carboxymethylates of isoalcohols with a purity of about to about Potassium tertiary-butoxide (9.42g, 0.084mole) was weighed out into a small round bottom flask under moisture free atmosphere (N 2 dry box). To this was then added 25ml dry pdioxane and while stirring, a mixture of Exxal® 13 alcohol (4.0g, 0.02mole) and chloroacetic acid (1.89g, 0.02mole) in dry p-dioxane was added. The heterogeneous reaction mixture was then stirred and heated at slight reflux overnight under N 2 The overnight heating caused a slight colouration to the mixture.

Heating was stopped, and after cooling to room temperature the solids were filtered and washed with p-dioxane and suction dried to give 6.70g lightly coloured paste. The paste was dissolved in water and acidified with HC1 and extracted with chloroform (separatory funnel). The chloroform was dried (MgSO 4 and after filtration, removal of chloroform (Rotavap) yielded about 0.90g of light brown oily liquid product.

WO 2004/006883 PCTIEP2003/007649 27 H and 1C NMR's of the liquid product indicated desired carboxymethylated product (acid form) H singlet at 4.11 ppm for R-O-CH 2

CO

2 and multiplet at 3.56ppm for R-CH 2 (13C peaks at 60.34 and 67.88 ppm for the -CH 2

-O-CH

2 This was further supported by GC analysis of the liquid product (silylated) versus starting Exxal® 13 alcohol and chloroacetic acid. The carboxymethylated product had retention times of about 2 minutes and about 6 minutes longer than the alcohol and chloroacetic acid respectively. Half of the carboxymethylated product in acid form was converted to the sodium salt in water and recovery of the sodium salt form was recovered via freeze-drying. Both the acid form and the salt form of the carboxymethylated product were used in the examples that follow.

EXAMPLE 2 This example provided carboxyethylation of a branched alcohol, which yields carboxyethylates of iso-alcohols (iso-tridecyloxy propionic acid) with a purity of about 98% to about 99%.

To iso-tridecanol, Exxal 13 alcohol (4.0g, 0.02mole), in a small 3-neck round bottom flask fitted with a condenser and stirrer, was added a catalytic amount of pulverized potassium hydroxide (32 milli-grams). While stirring well, acrylonitrile (0.93 g, 0.02 mole) was added dropwise via a syringe. The reaction mixture was then stirred at room/ambient temperature for two hours. During the stirring, the mixture turned warm. The mixture was then heated at 60 0

C

WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 28 -1 for two hours. GC and IR (band at 2257 cm- for CN) analyses of the reaction mixture showed the main reaction product was iso-tridecyloxypropionitrile, as well as absence of isotridecanol.

The iso-tridecyloxypropionitrile (2 g) and 8 ml concentrated hydrochloric acid were charged into a small 3-neck roundbottom flask fitted with a mechanical stirrer and condenser and heated at 75-80 0 C (water bath) for one hour and then at reflux for 3 hours.

After allowing the reaction mixture to cool to room/ambient temperature, the aqueous layer was extracted with 20 ml chloroform and dried. Note, hexane extraction may also be used.

The chloroform was completely removed (Rotavap), yielding about 2.0 g clear colourless liquid product. This was analyzed by gas chromatography (GC) and infrared spectroscopy (IR: strong carbonyl band at 1722 cm to be the carboxyethyl iso-tridecanol product. Advantageously, the purity of the carboxyethyl iso-tridecanol product is at least about 98%. Potential by products are: ammonium chloride, dimer of TDCE, ester of TDCE.

Half of the carboxyethylated product in acid form was converted to the sodium salt in water and recovery of the sodium salt form was recovered via freeze-drying.

WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 29 EXAMPLE 3 This example provided comparative data on inhibition of sebocyte lipogenesis by the carboxymethylated and the carboxyethylated products of Examples 1 and 2, respectively.

The iso-tridecyl carboxymethylated product and the isotridecyl carboxyethylated products (hereinafter "TDCM" and "TDCE", respectively) and sodium salts thereof were obtained from Examples 1 and 2, respectively.

Secondary cultures of human sebocytes obtained from an adult male were grown in 96-well tissue culture plates (Packard Co.; Meriden, CT) until confluent. Sebocyte growth medium consisted of Clonetics Keratinocyte Basal Medium (KBM) supplemented with 14 pg/ml bovine pituitary extract, 0.4 pg/ml hydrocortisone, 5 jig/ml insulin, 10 ng/ml epidermal growth factor, 1.2 x 10 10 M cholera toxin, 100 units/ml penicillin, and 100 g/ml streptomycin. All cultures were incubated at 37 0 C in the presence of 7.5% CO 2 Medium was changed three times per week.

On the day of experimentation, the growth medium was removed and the sebocytes washed three times with sterile Dulbecco's Modified Eagle Medium (DMEM; phenol red free). Fresh DMEM was added to each sample (duplicates, triplicates, or quadruplicates depending on the experiment) with 5 pL of test agent solubilized in ethanol or sterile, distilled water.

Controls consisted of addition of ethanol alone or phenol WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 30 red. Phenol Red, a known sebum suppressive agent, was employed as a positive control.

Each plate was returned to the incubator for 20 hours followed by the addition of 1C-acetate buffer (5 mM final concentration, 56 mCi/mmol specific activity). Sebocytes were returned to the incubator for four hours after which each culture was rinsed three times with phosphate buffered saline to remove unbound label. Radioactive label remaining in the sebocytes was harvested and counted using a TopCount- NXT brand scintillation counter (Packard Co., Meriden, Connecticut).

The results that were obtained, expressed in terms of amount of radioactive label remaining in the sebocytes as a percent of control, are summarized in Table 2. A lower radioactive label, i.e. a lower of control, indicates a greater inhibition of sebocyte lipogenesis.

TABLE 2 hour Incubation; 96 well plate Treatment of Control Control 100.0 100M Phenol Red 46.3* 1 iM Iso-tridecyl carboxymethylate 84.8* pM Iso-tridecyl carboxymethylate 43.4* 100 pM Iso-tridecyl carboxymethylate 22.8* 1 pM Iso-tridecyl carboxyethylate 48.7* jM Iso-tridecyl carboxyethylate 34.6* 100 gM Iso-tridecyl carboxyethylate 11.9* *statistically significant at p 0.01 WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 31 Statistical significance (p value) was calculated using student's t-test.

As shown in Table 2, both iso-tridecyl carboxymethylate (TDCM) and iso-tridecyl carboxyethylate (TDCE) enhanced inhibition of lipogenesis at all tested concentrations. As can be seen from a comparison of the data in Table 2, TDCE performed significantly better than TDCM, TDCE was almost twice as effective as TDCM.

EXAMPLE 4 This example provides carboxypropylation of an alcohol, which yields the corresponding alkyl oxy butyric acid with a purity of about 50% to about Potassium tertiary-butoxide (9.42g, 0.084mole) was weighed out into a small round bottom flask under moisture free atmosphere (N 2 dry box). To this was then added 25ml dry pdioxane or THF and while stirring, a mixture of Exxal® 13 alcohol (Branched alcohol with 13 carbons; 4.0g, 0.02mole) and 4- chlorobutyric acid (Aldrich Chemicals, 0.02mole) in dry THF was added. The heterogeneous reaction mixture was then stirred and heated at slight reflux overnight under

N

2 Heating was stopped and after cooling to room temperature the solids were filtered and washed with THF and suction dried to give 6.70g lightly coloured paste. The paste was dissolved in water and acidified with HC1 and extracted with chloroform (3x100 ml in a separatory funnel). The chloroform was dried (MgSO 4 and after filtration, removal of chloroform WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 32 (rotavap) yielded about 1.0 g of an oily liquid product. H and C NMR's of the liquid product confirmed the structure of the desired C 13

H

27 0CH 2

CH

2

CH

2

CO

2 H product (acid form) The same or similar process is applicable for carboxyethylation, carboxybutylation, carboxypentylation, carboxyhexylation, and higher methylene groups, where, in the compound of formula A, m is an integer greater than or equal to 2. For example, for carboxyethylation, chloroacetic acid would be used with the branched alcohol.

EXAMPLE This example provides a comparison of the relative activity of carboxyakylates of the present invention with other derivatives of alcohols, as well as the branched alcohols from which the carboxyalkylates of the present invention are derived.

The experiments were conducted using the procedure set forth in the Example 3 above, with the concentrations of the compounds varied, in order to determine the concentration for each compound tested which provide a 50% sebum suppression.

The concentration which provides a 50% sebum suppression relative to the control is referred to in the Table below as The chemical structures of compounds tested, referred to by number in the Table below, are as follows.

WO 2004/006883 WO 204/06883PCTIEP2003/007649 :33 Compound #1: Compound ff2: Compound ff3: Compound #f4: CI{2CH2C021{ (TDCE) CH2 CR2CN CH-2CH2 CH2MHI2 H (EXXAL 13)

RO

HH

2 Compound Compound #6

OCH

2

CH

2

CO

2

H

Compound 7 R Isotridecyl branched WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 34 TABLE 3 hour Incubation; 96 well plate Compound Chemicals IC (micro molar) 1 C13 isoalcohol carboxyethylate (TDCE) 2 C13 isoalcohol propionitrile >>100 3 C 13 isoalcohol oxypropyl amine -100 4 C13 isoalcohol (Exxal 13) 100 C13 isoalcohol glycerol >>100 6 3,7,11-trimethyl 1-dodecanol >100 7 3,7,11-trimethyl 1-dodecanol carboxyethylate The data in this Example demonstrates the importance of the carboxyl group to the activity of the compounds as sebum suppressants. For example, the data shows that TDCE (compound 1) is about 20 times as active is the branched alcohol (compound 4) from which it is derived. Compound 7 is at least about 10 times as active as the Compound 6 branched alcohol from which it is derived.

EXAMPLE 6 This example compares the colour of TDCM and TDCE, showing that TDCE has better colour characteristics.

The light absorbency of the TDCM and TDCE compounds was determined at wavelengths of 340-500 nm using a Molecular Devices Spectramax 340 spectrophotometer. The data is shown in the Table below.

WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 35 TABLE 4 Wavelength TDCM TDCE Blank 340 1.459 0.131 0.093 350 1.014 0.106 0.073 360 0.692 0.09 0.06 370 0.482 0.08 0.053 380 0.336 0.07 0.045 390 0.251 0.062 0.039 400 0.197 0.058 0.037 410 0.161 0.055 0.037 420 0.138 0.054 0.036 430 0.124 0.052 0.036 440 0.097 0.051 0.035 450 0.078 0.05 0.035 460 0.069 0.049 0.035 470 0.064 0.049 0.036 480 0.058 0.048 0.035 490 0.054 0.046 0.034 500 0.051 0.046 0.035 The higher the number, the more light the compound absorbs at a specific wavelength, which is characteristic of a darker colour. The data shows that the absorbency values for TDCM are higher than those for TDCE, indicating that TDCE is lighter in colour, which is more appealing to the consumer.

EXAMPLE 7 Synthesis of ethoxylated C13 iso alcohol carboxyethylate R (OCH2CH2) 3

CH

2

CH

2

CO

2 H where R= C 13 branched C13 iso-alcohol (22.00 g, Exxal 13) was first reacted with Thionyl chloride (excess) to form the corresponding C13 isoalcohol chloride, C13 H27 Cl, in 88% yield after WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 36 distilation (according to procedure outlined in Org. Syn.

Coll. Vol. 4, 333, 1963).

To a reaction flask under nitrogen atmosphere containing 52.86 g (0.35moles) of dried H(OCH2CH2)30H (triethylene glycol, Aldrich) is added slowly 3.42 g of potasium metal.

The reaction was heated at 100 0 C for 5 hrs. The temperature of the reaction was increased to 150 0 C and then the C13 H27 Cl (0.073 moles) was added over 5 hrs. The reaction was cooled to room temperature and 500 ml of toluene was, added. This mixture was then washed with water (3x100 ml) to remove unreacted triethylene glycol. Gas chromatography showed some formation of C13 olefin (less than The solvent was removed on a Rotavap and the mixture was distilled (200-2200C) to form the ethoxylated (3EO) C13 iso alcohol carboxyethylate in 55% isolated yield.

The same procedure is applicable to iso-alcohols of varying carbon chain lengths according to the present invention, and to alkoxylates of varying carbon chain lengths according to the present invention as disclosed above.

The 3-ethoxylated isoalcohol will be reacted with acrylonitril, followed by HC1, to form the corresponding carboxy-alkyl 3ethoxylated isoalcohol, according to Examples 2 and 4.

It should be understood that the specific forms of the invention herein illustrated and described are intended to be representative only. Changes, including but not limited to those suggested in this specification, may be made in the illustrated embodiments without departing from the clear P:\WPDOCS\TO\Spc\ 1251094 Idc-14/01/05 -37teachings of the disclosure. Accordingly, reference should be made to the following appended claims in determining the full scope of the invention.

Throughout this specification and the claims which follow, unless the context requires otherwise, the word "comprise", and variations such as "comprises" or "comprising", will be understood to imply the inclusion of a stated integer or step or group of integers or steps but not the exclusion of any other integer or step or group of integers or steps.

The reference to any prior art in this specification is not, and should not be taken as, an acknowledgement or any form of suggestion that that prior art forms part of the common general knowledge in Australia.

Claims (23)

1. A compound of the formula A: R-O-M (A) wherein: R is a branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having at least 7 carbon atoms, and at least two branches; O is an oxygen atom; M is (-(CH 2 )pO)n- (CH2)mCO 2 X, where n is 0 or an integer between 1 and 7, m is an integer between 2 and 4, p is an integer between 2 and 4; and X is hydrogen, a methyl group, an ethyl group, or a cation.

2. The compound of claim 1, wherein the cation is selected from sodium, lithium, potassium, calcium, copper, magnesium, manganese, strontium, sulfur, zinc, and amines, or mixtures thereof.

3. The compound of claim 1 or claim 2, wherein R is a branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having 13 carbon atoms and at least two branches.

4. The compound of any of claims 1 to 3, wherein X is a hydrogen or a cation and M is selected from -CH 2 CH 2 CO 2 X (n is 0, m is 2), -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CO 2 X (n is 0, m is 4), -CH 2 CH 2 0-CH 2 CH 2 CO 2 X (n is 1, p is 2, m is and WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 39 -CH2CH 2 0-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CO 2 X (n is 1, p is 2, m is 4), or mixtures thereof. A skin care cosmetic composition comprising: about 0.001% to about 50% of a compound of the formula A: R-O-M (A) wherein: R is a branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having at least 7 carbon atoms, and at least two branches; 0 is an oxygen atom; M is (-(CH 2 )pO)n- (CH2)mCO2X, where n is 0 or an integer between 1 and 7, m is an integer between 2 and 4, p is an integer between 2 and 4; X is hydrogen, a methyl group, an ethyl group, or a cation; and (ii) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

6. The skin care cosmetic composition of claim 5 wherein the cation is selected from sodium, lithium, potassium, calcium, copper, magnesium, manganese, strontium, sulfur, zinc, and amines, or mixtures thereof.

7. The skin care cosmetic composition of claim 5 or claim 6 wherein M is (-C1CH 2 CO 2 X) or (-CH 2 CH 2 0-CH 2 CH 2 CO 2 X) and X is hydrogen or a cation. WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 40

8. The skin care cosmetic composition of any of claims 5 to 7 additionally comprising a retinoid.

9. The composition of any of claims 5 to 8, further comprising an astringent salt. The skin care composition of claim 9, wherein the astringent salt is selected fromaluminum hydroxides, aluminum halides, aluminum hydroxyhalides, zirconyl oxyhalides, zirconyl hydroxyhalides and mixtures thereof.

11. The skin care cosmetic composition of claim 9 or claim wherein the astringent salt is selected from of analuminum salt having the general formula A12(OH)xQy--XH20; wherein Q is chlorine, bromine or iodine; wherein x is 2 to 5 and x+y=6 and x and y do not need to be integers; and wherein X is about 1 to about 6.

12. The skin care cosmetic composition of any of claims 9 to 11 wherein the astringent salt is selected fromaluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrex, aluminum chlorohydrex PEG, aluminum chlorohydrex PG, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrex PEG, aluminum dichlorohydrex PG, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PEG, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PG, aluminum sulfate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex GLY, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex GLY, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate GLY, WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 41 and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate GLY, and mixtures thereof.

13. The skin care cosmetic composition of any of claims 9 to 12, wherein the astringent salt is aluminum chlorohydrate.

14. A cosmetic method of reducing or controlling the perception of oily or greasy skin by applying to the skin a composition according to any of claims 1 to 13. A cosmetic method of providing a skin benefit, the method comprising applying to the skin a composition comprising: about 0.001% to about 50% of a compound of the formula A: R-O-M (A) wherein: R is a branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having at least 7 carbon atoms, and at least two branches 0 is an oxygen atom; and M is (-(CH2)pO)n- (CH2)mC02X, where n is 0 or an integer between 1 and 7, m is an integer between 2 and 4, p is an integer between 2 and 4; X is hydrogen, a methyl group, an ethyl group, or a cation; and (ii) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle; the benefit selected from the group consisting of: reducing or preventing oily skin conditions; WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 42 reducing or preventing sebum secretion from sebocytes; stimulating collagen synthesis by fibroblasts in the skin; and controlling microbial activity of bacteria associated with acne.

16. The cosmetic method of claim 5, further including the skin benefit of controlling, preventing, or treating oily or greasy hair.

17. A cosmetic method of providing a skin benefit, the method comprising applying to the skin a compound of the formula A: R-O-M (A) wherein: R is a branched alkyl oralkenyl chain having at least 7 carbon atoms, and at least two branches 0 is an oxygen atom; and M is (-(CH 2 )pO)n- (CH2)mCO2X, where n is 0 or an integer between 1 and 7, m is an integer between 2 and 4, p is an integer between 2 and 4; and X is hydrogen, a methyl group, an ethyl group, or a cation; the benefit selected from: reducing or preventing oily skin conditions; reducing or preventing sebum secretion from sebocytes; WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 43 stimulating collagen synthesis by fibroblasts in the skin; and controlling microbial activity of bacteria associated with acne.

18. The cosmetic method of claim 17, further including the skin benefit of controlling, preventing, or treating oily or greasy hair.

19. A process of synthesizing a compound of the formula A: R-O-M (A) wherein: R is a branched alkyl oralkenyl chain having at least 7 carbon atoms, and at least two branches 0 is an oxygen atom; M is (-(CH2)pO)n- (CH2)mCO 2 X, where n is 0 or an integer between 1 and 7, m is an integer between 2 and 4, p is an integer between 2 and 4; comprising: combining a branched alcohol withacrylonitrile to form alkyl or alkenyl oxypropionitrile; reacting said alkyl oralkenyl oxypropionitrile nitrile with aqueous solution of acid to form carboxyethyl iso-alcohol. The process of claim 19, further comprising reacting the carboxyethyl alcohol with an alcohol or base to form compound A wherein the cation is selected from sodium, WO 2004/006883 PCT/EP2003/007649 44 lithium, potassium, calcium, copper, magnesium, manganese, strontium, sulfur, zinc, and amines.

21. The process of claim 19 or claim 20, wherein R is a branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having 13 carbon atoms and at least two branches.

22. The process of any of claims 19 to 21 wherein the purity of compound A is at least about 98%.

23. The process of any of claims 19 to 22, wherein the reaction in step is carried out over potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide catalyst.

24. The process of any of claims 19 to 23, wherein the acrylonitrile is used in excess relative to the branched alcohol. The process of any of claims 19 to 24, wherein the molar ratio of the acrylonitrile to the branched alcohol is about 1:1 to about 1.5:1.

26. A process of synthesizing a compound of the formula A: R-O-M (A) wherein: R is a branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having at least 7 carbon atoms, and at least two branches O is an oxygen atom; P:\WPDOCS\TO\Spo\ 1251094 od- 14/01/05 M is (-(CH 2 )pO)n- (CH 2 )mC02X, where n is 0 or an integer between 1 and 7, m is an integer between 2 and 4, p is an integer between 2 and 4; comprising combining a branched alcohol with a compound selected from chloroacetic acid, chloropripionic acid, chlorobutyric acid, and mixtures thereof to form a heterogeneous reaction mixture; stirring and heating the heterogeneous reaction mixture at slight reflux under nitrogen; cooling to room temperature; filtering and washing to form a paste; dissolving the paste in water; acidifying the dissolved paste with HC1; extracting the acidified paste with chloroform or hexane; removal of chloroform to form the compound of formula A.

27. A compound of the Formula A, a skin care composition comprising same, or a process for synthesising same substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to the examples.

28. A cosmetic method of providing a skin benefit substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to the examples. DATED this 14th day of January, 2005 UNILEVER PLC By Their Patent Attorneys DAVIES COLLISON CAVE