WO2020042138A1

WO2020042138A1 - Composition for conditioning keratin fibers

Info

Publication number: WO2020042138A1
Application number: PCT/CN2018/103478
Authority: WO
Inventors: Yizhou Wang; Xiaoyin ZHOU; Shuhong Yuan; Wi-Soon Chia
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2018-08-31
Filing date: 2018-08-31
Publication date: 2020-03-05

Abstract

A composition for conditioning keratin fibers comprises: a) a combination of i) at least one saturated fatty alcohol of formula (I) : R1-OH (I) wherein R1 is a linear or branched alkyl with at least 20 carbon atoms; ii) at least one saturated fatty alcohol of formula (II) : R2-OH (II) wherein R2 is a linear or branched alkyl with 10-18 carbon atoms; and iii) at least one unsaturated fatty alcohol of formula (III) : R3-OH (III) wherein R3 is a linear or branched alkenyl with 10-30 carbon atoms; and b) at least one oil selected from ester of C 6-C 20 fatty acid and C 6-C 20 fatty alcohol.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR CONDITIONING KERATIN FIBERS

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a composition used in cosmetic field, particularly, to a composition for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular the hair. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular the hair, using said composition.

BACKGROUND ART

Keratin fibers, in particular the hair is cleansed and treated with many cosmetic regiments to improve its look, color, style, etc. These various regiments however can remove the hair’s natural oils and impart structural damage to the hair.

For instance, shampooing is used primarily to cleanse the hair. Shampoos are often formulated with anionic surfactants since anionic surfactants are highly effective for removing dirt, pollution, build-up, etc., from the hair, but they also remove sebum, anaturally occurring oily or waxy matter that automatically lubricates hair. Shampooing can therefore leave the hair with a dry or coarse texture. Furthermore, cleansed hair can become extremely difficult to comb, in either the wet or the dry state, because the individual hair fibers tend to snarl, kink, and interlock with each other. In addition, incompletely dried hair, such as hair dried with a towel, has poor brushing properties, and after complete drying, the hair does not set well. The combing or brushing properties of dry hair remain poor, and the hair has undesirable electrostatic properties in a low humidity atmosphere that causes the hair to "fly away" thereby further reducing the brushing properties of the hair.

Chemical hair treatments can further eliminate hair’s natural oils (e.g., sebum) and alter the hair fiber’s chemical and physical properties. The process of permanently changing the color of hair can involve depositing an artificial color onto the hair which provides a different shade or color to the hair. The process of lifting the color of hair requires the use of harsh chemicals such as alkalizing chemicals. These chemicals cause the hair shaft to swell, thus allowing the small oxidative dye molecules to penetrate the cuticle and cortex before the oxidation condensation process is completed. The resulting larger-sized colored complexes from the oxidative reaction are then trapped inside the hair fiber, thereby permanently altering the color of the hair.

There are many techniques and compositions for styling or altering the shape of hair. Different types of compositions can be applied onto hair in order to change its shape and make it more manageable, such as alkaline and acidic compositions. Hair relaxers, straighteners, perms, and/or waves may either be applied in a hair salon by a professional or in the home by the individual consumer.

While chemically treating hair can impart desirable cosmetic changes to the hair (e.g., change the color, shape, etc. ) , these chemical treatments can damage the hair fibers, in some cases even more than repeated shampooing of the hair. Like shampooing, chemical treatments can leave the hair dry with a coarse texture.

Conditioning compositions are used to improve or return to the hair its natural luster, shine, smoothness, and softness, for example, after shampooing the hair and/or after subjecting the hair to a chemical treatment. Conditioning compositions are often applied as rinses, cream-like emulsions, or lotions, and typically include one or more cationic compound. This improves the wet combing properties of the hair often because the conditioner composition coats the hair shaft and causes individual hair fiber to resist tangling and matting due to the conditioner residue retained on the hair shaft.

It is known that various conditioning agents may provide different desired benefits. Conventional conditioning agents contain for example, cationic surfactants, silicones, and oils.

Currently, consumers show an increasing interest of cosmetic products with natural origin ingredients. Thus, products free of synthetic ingredients, such as silicones, are more and more favored. Efforts have been made to formulate such products which deliver good cosmetic properties as those containing synthetic conditioning ingredients such as silicone oils. However, the products are still not satisfactory, especially in terms of conditioning effects such as smoothness, suppleness, and moist of the hair, as well as long lasting non-greasiness.

Thus, there is still a need for new product for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular the hair, which is silicone-free and can deliver good smoothness, suppleness and moist, and perform well in long lasting non-greasiness.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

An aim of the present invention is to provide a composition for conditioning keratin fibers, which can deliver good smoothness, suppleness and moist, and perform well in long lasting non-greasiness.

Another aim of the present invention is to provide a process for conditioning keratin fibers.

Thus, according to one aspect, the present invention provides a composition for conditioning keratin fibers comprising:

a) a combination of

i) at least one saturated fatty alcohol of formula (I) :

R1-OH (I)

wherein R1 is a linear or branched alkyl with at least 20 carbon atoms;

ii) at least one saturated fatty alcohol of formula (II) :

R2-OH (II)

wherein R2 is a linear or branched alkyl with 10-18 carbon atoms; and

iii) at least one unsaturated fatty alcohol of formula (III) :

R3-OH (III)

wherein R3 is a linear or branched alkenyl with 10-30 carbon atoms; and

b) at least one oil selected from ester of C ₆-C ₂₀ fatty acid and C ₆-C ₂₀ fatty alcohol.

According to another aspect, the present invention provides a process for conditioning keratin fibers, comprising application of the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers.

The composition according to the present invention can deliver good smoothness, suppleness and moist, and perform well in long lasting non-greasiness.

In addition, the composition according to the present invention can be easily spread evenly and rinsed off.

Lastly, the composition according to the present invention is stable over time.

Other characteristics and advantages of the present invention will emerge more clearly upon reading the description and the examples that follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

According to one aspect, the present invention provides a composition for conditioning keratin fibers comprising:

a) a combination of

i)at least one saturated fatty alcohol of formula (I) :

R1-OH (I)

wherein R1 is a linear or branched alkyl with at least 20 carbon atoms;

ii) at least one saturated fatty alcohol of formula (II) :

R2-OH (II)

wherein R2 is a linear or branched alkyl with 10-18 carbon atoms; and

iii) at least one unsaturated fatty alcohol of formula (III) :

R3-OH (III)

wherein R3 is a linear or branched alkenyl with 10-30 carbon atoms; and

b)at least one oil selected from ester of C ₆-C ₂₀ fatty acid and C ₆-C ₂₀ fatty alcohol.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is silicone-free.

As used herein, the term “silicone” is understood to mean any compound comprising at least one silicon atom, and preferably comprising Si-O groups.

As used herein, the term “silicone-free” means the composition of the present invention comprising no silicone or comprising silicone in an amount no more than 1%by weight of silicones relative to the total composition. Preferably, the composition may contain no more than 0.5%by weight, more preferably no more than 0.2%by weight, of silicones relative to the total weight of the composition.

Even more preferably, the composition of the present invention does not contain silicone.

In the description, the terms “at least a” or “at least one” are equivalent to “one or more” .

As used herein, “INCI” is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care ingredients.

As used herein, “keratin fibers” includes but is not limited to hair and eyelashes.

Preferably, the “keratin fibers” according to the present invention is the hair.

By “stable over time” we intend to mean a composition that does not undergo any significant change in its structure or properties for at least one month after its manufacture and especially for at least two months after its manufacture.

Fatty alcohols

The composition according to the present invention comprises a combination of

i)at least one saturated fatty alcohol of formula (I) :

R1-OH (I)

wherein R1 is a linear or branched alkyl with at least 20 carbon atoms;

ii) at least one saturated fatty alcohol of formula (II) :

R2-OH (II)

wherein R2 is a linear or branched alkyl with 10-18 carbon atoms; and

iii) at least one unsaturated fatty alcohol of formula (III) :

R3-OH (III)

wherein R3 is a linear or branched alkenyl with 10-30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, in formula (I) , R1 is a linear or branched alkyl chain with 20-40 carbon atoms, preferably 20-30 carbon atoms, more preferably 20-24 carbon atoms.

As examples of saturated fatty alcohol of formula (I) , arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and lignoceryl alcohol can be mentioned.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of saturated fatty alcohols of formula (I) with 20-22 carbon atoms.

As an example of saturated fatty alcohol of formula (I) useful in the composition according to the present invention, the commercial product, Nafol 1822 C from Condea, can be cited. Nafol 1822 C is referenced as behenyl alcohol in the Seventh Edition of the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Volume 1, page 123 and is defined to be a mixture of fatty alcohols containing chiefly n-docosanol, a C ₂₂ alcohol. Another commercial product that can be used in the composition of the present invention is Lannet 22 from COGNIS (BASF) that contains behenyl alcohol. Another representative mixture of fatty alcohols is the product sold under the name Nafol 2298 by the company Condea, which contains 98%C ₂₂ alcohol.

The at least one saturated fatty alcohol of formula (I) is present in amount ranging from 0.1%to 10.0%, more preferable from 0.3%to 5.0%by weight, most preferably from 1.0%to 3.0%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, in formula (II) , R2 is a linear or branched alkyl chain with 12-18 carbon atoms, preferably 14-18 carbon atoms, more preferably 16-18 carbon atoms.

As examples of saturated fatty alcohol of formula (II) , cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol can be mentioned.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises cetearyl alcohol.

The at least one saturated fatty alcohol of formula (II) is present in amount ranging from 1.0%to 10.0%, more preferable from 2.0%to 8.0%by weight, most preferably from 4.0%to 7.0%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, in formula (III) , R3 is a linear or branched alkenyl with 12-24 carbon atoms, preferably 14-20 carbon atoms, more preferably 16-18 carbon atoms.

As examples of unsaturated fatty alcohol of formula (III) , tetradecen-1-ol, hexadecen-1-ol and oleyl alcohol can be mentioned.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises oleyl alcohol.

The at least one unsaturated fatty alcohol of formula (III) is present in amount ranging from 0.1%to 10.0%, more preferable from 0.2%to 5.0%by weight, most preferably from 0.3%to 2.0%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The combination of i) at least one saturated fatty alcohol of formula (I) , ii) at least one saturated fatty alcohol of formula (II) and iii) at least one unsaturated fatty alcohol of formula (III) is present in amount ranging from 1.5%to 20%, more preferable from 3%to 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oil (s) selected from ester of C ₆-C ₂₀ fatty acid and C ₆-C ₂₀ fatty alcohol The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil selected from ester of C ₆-C ₂₀ fatty acid and C ₆-C ₂₀ fatty alcohol.

By “oil” it differs from the fatty substances such as pasty compounds or waxes in that the oils insoluble in water and are liquid at room temperature (25℃) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013.105 Pa) .

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-insoluble" refers to a compound whose solubility at spontaneous pH in water at 25℃ and at atmospheric pressure is less than 1%and preferably less than 0.5%.

According to the embodiment of the present invention, the oils used in the composition are esters of C ₆-C ₂₀ fatty acid and C ₆-C ₂₀ fatty alcohol.

More particularly, the oils are of plant origin. For example, the plant oils that comprise esters of fatty acid and fatty alcohol, or esters of fatty acid and fatty alcohol obtained from the plant oils.

According to an embodiment, the oil is a compound of formula (IV) :

R’-C (O) -OR” (IV)

wherein:

R’and R”, same or different, represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆-C ₂₀ carbon chain.

Preferably, the fatty acid that is suitable for the present invention includes caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, maleic acid, oleic acid, linoeic acid, etc.

The fatty alcohol that is suitable for the present invention includes 3-methyl-3-pentanol, ethchlorvynol, capryl alcohol, pelargonic alcohol, decyl alcohol, capric alcohol, undecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, heptadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, nonadecyl alcohol, or arachidyl alcohol.

Preferably in the formula (IV) , R’and R”, same or different, represents a linear and saturated or unsaturated C ₆-C ₁₈ carbon chain.

More preferably, in the formula (IV) , R’and R”are different from each other, wherein R’represents a linear and saturated or unsaturated C ₆-C ₁₈ carbon chain, and R”represents a linear and saturated C ₆-C ₁₈ fatty chain.

Mentions of oils that are suitable for the composition of the present invention can be made of dicaprylyl maleate, hydrogenated olive oil stearyl esters, caprylic/capric triglyceride, or a mixture thereof.

According to an embodiment, the oil selected from ester of C ₆-C ₂₀ fatty acid and C ₆-C ₂₀ fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 10.0%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 5.0%by weight, more preferably from 0.5%to 3.0%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-ionic polymer

The inventors found that when the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic polymer, the texture of the composition is unique, as compared to the conventional conditioning products. In particular, upon application onto the keratin fibers, the composition is elastic and soft.

Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one non-ionic polymer.

The non-ionic polymer used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably selected from polysaccharides.

Among the polysaccharides, mention may be made of heterogeneous polysaccharides.

The expression "heterogeneous polysaccharide" is understood according to the present invention to mean polymers consisting of the combination of different monosaccharides or of monosaccharides having the same empirical chemical formula but with a different geometric configuration (for example D and L isomers) .

These polymers differ both from polyheterosides, which consist of one or more monosaccharides and of a non-carbohydrate part, and homogeneous polysaccharides, which result from the combination of the same monosaccharide.

Thus, the heterogeneous polysaccharide according to the invention consists solely of monosaccharides and results from the combination of at least two different monosaccharides.

The polysaccharides according to the invention may be consisted of 2 to 10 monosaccharides, compounds commonly referred to as oligosaccharides, or of more than 10 monosaccharides, compounds commonly referred to as polysaccharides.

The monosaccharides present in the polysaccharide according to the present invention may be selected from any monosaccharide of natural or synthetic origin that can be envisaged, and in particular such as:

-aldoses, for instance

--pentoses: ribose, arabinose, xylose or apiose, for example,

--hexoses: glucose, fucose, mannose or galactose, for example,

-ketoses such as fructose,

-deoxymonosaccharides, such as rhamnose, digitoxose, cymarose or oleandrose,

-monosaccharide derivatives such as uronic acids, for instance mannuronic acid, guluronic acid, galacturonic acid or glycuronic acid, or else itols, for instance mannitol or sorbitol.

The polysaccharide according to the invention may be branched or linear. It may also be substituted, for example with fatty chains, especially comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

Moreover, the polysaccharide according to the invention may be an alginate (polymannuronate and polyguluronate) such as a sodium alginate, apropylene glycol alginate, a calcium alginate or a glyceryl alginate.

However, the heterogeneous polysaccharide preferably comprises at least one fucose unit, which may be present in an amount of 10-90%by weight and preferably 15-35%by weight relative to the weight of polysaccharide solids.

Among the polysaccharides, mention may also be made of the polysaccharides such as:

-algal extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans and agar-agar, and mixtures thereof. Examples of carrageenans that may be mentioned include Satiagum

and

from the company Degussa; an alginate that may be mentioned is the sodium alginate sold under the name

by the company ISP;

-gums, such as xanthan gum, guar gum and nonionic derivatives thereof (e.g. hydroxypropyl guar) , gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, gum tragacanth, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum; examples that may be mentioned include the guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP

by the company Rhodia; mannan gum and konjac

(1%glucomannan) sold by the company GfN;

-modified or unmodified starches, such as those obtained, for example, from cereals, for instance wheat, maize or rice, from legumes, for instance yellow pea, from tubers, for instance potatoes or cassava, and tapioca starches; dextrins, such as maize dextrins; examples that may especially be mentioned include the rice starch Remy DR

sold by the company Remy; the maize starch

from the company Roquette; the potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide, sold under the name Structure

by the company National Starch; the native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca

by the company National Starch;

-dextrins, such as dextrin extracted from maize under the name

from the company National Starch;

-celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl or hydroxyalkyl celluloses; mention may especially be made of methyl celluloses, hydroxyalkyl celluloses, ethyl hydroxyethyl celluloses and carboxymethyl celluloses. Examples that may be mentioned include the cetyl hydroxyethyl celluloses sold under the names Polysurf

and Natrosol Plus

from Aqualon; and

-mixtures thereof.

Mentions may particularly be made of guar and non-ionic derivatives thereof. The non-ionic derivatives of guar can be guar modified with C ₁-C ₆ hydroxyalkyl groups. Exemplary hydroxyalkyl groups may include hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

Preferably, the non-ionic polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 10.0%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 5.0%by weight, more preferably from 0.1%to 3.0%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional Components

The composition of the present invention optionally comprises additional components which are conventionally used in conditioning the keratin fibers to provide various benefits. The additional components may be selected from additional oils, surfactants, and other additives.

Additional oils

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one additional oil, which is different from the ester oil as defined above.

The additional oils that can be used in the present invention are preferably hydrocarbon-based oils.

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” is understood to mean oil essentially formed and even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms which does not comprise a silicone or fluorine atom; it can comprise ester, ether, amine and amide groups.

The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

The term "non-volatile" means an oil of which the vapor pressure at 25℃ and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .

The term “volatile oil” means an oil of which the vapor pressure at 25℃ and atmospheric pressure is from 0, 13 Pa to 40.000 Pa (0,001 to 300 mmHg) and preferably from 1, 3 to 1300 Pa (0, 01 to 10 mm Hg) .

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one oil selected from the group consisting of plant oil, fatty alcohols, or a mixture thereof.

In particular, the term "plant oil" means an oil as defined above, obtained from a species belonging to the plant kingdom.

As examples of plant oils that are suitable for the present invention, mentions maybe made of:

-sweet almond oil,

-argan oil,

-avocado oil,

-peanut oil,

-camellia oil,

-safflower oil,

-calophyllum oil,

-coconut oil,

-colza oil,

-copra oil,

-coriander oil,

-cucurbit oil,

-wheatgerm oil,

-jojoba oil orjojoba liquid wax,

-linseed oil,

-macadamia oil,

-maize germ oil,

-hazelnut oil,

-walnut oil,

-vernonia oil,

-apricot kernel oil,

-olive oil,

-evening primrose oil,

-palm oil,

-passionflower oil,

-grapeseed oil,

-rose oil,

-castor oil,

-rye oil,

-sesame oil,

-rice bran oil,

-soya oil, or soybean oil, and

-sunflower seed oil.

Preferably, the composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one plant oil selected from sunflower seed oil.

The amount of additional oil (s) , when they are present in the composition, preferably ranges from 0.01%to 20%by weight, better still from 0.05%to 10%by weight and more particularly from 0.1%to 5%by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

The composition of the present invention may comprise water, for example in amount ranging from 40%to 99.0%by weight, preferably from 50%to 98%by weight, most preferably from 55%to 95%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Surfactants

According to some embodiments, the composition of the present invention further comprise at least one surfactant selected from cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one cationic surfactant.

In one embodiment, the cationic surfactant is chosen from dimethylamine derivatives.

In one embodiment, the dimethylamine derivative is chosen from stearyl dimethyl amine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cationic surfactant is stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

Preferably, the cationic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 6%by weight, preferably from 0.5%to 4%by weight and better still from 0.5%to 3%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additive (s) other than the components mentioned above.

As additives that may be used in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made of additional fatty substances, anionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, opacifiers, pearlescent or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxyacids, fragrances and preserving agents.

The other additives may be selected conventionally by a person skilled in the art according to the practical demand.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select these additional components such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition (s) .

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for conditioning keratin fibers, which is silicone-free, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) a combination of

i)from 1.0%to 3.0%by weight of at least one saturated fatty alcohol of formula (I) :

R1-OH (I)

wherein R1 is a linear or branched alkyl with 20-24 carbon atoms;

ii) from 4.0%to 7.0%by weight of at least one saturated fatty alcohol of formula (II) :

R2-OH (II)

wherein R2 is a linear or branched alkyl with 16-18 carbon atoms; and

iii) from 0.3%to 2.0%by weight of at least one unsaturated fatty alcohol of formula (III) :

R3-OH (III)

wherein R3 is a linear or branched alkenyl with 16-18 carbon atoms; and

b)from 0.5%to 3.0%by weight of at least one oil selected from the groups consisting of dicaprylyl maleate, hydrogenated olive oil stearyl esters, capylic/capric triglylyceride, or a mixture thereof.

More preferably, the composition further comprises from 0.1%to 3.0%by weight of at least one-ionic polymer selected from guar and guar modified with C ₁-C ₆ hydroxyalkyl groups, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the present invention can be used in the form of rinse-off products or leave-on products, and can be formulated in a wide variety of product forms, including but not limited to creams, gels, emulsions, mousses and sprays. The composition of the present invention is especially suitable for being used as after-shampoo conditioner.

According to another aspect, the present invention provides a process for conditioning keratin fibers, comprising application of the composition according to the present invention.

The composition as described above may be used to condition the keratin fibers such as hair through conventional methods, depending on the application form of the composition.

For example, when used as an after-shampoo conditioner, the composition of the present invention may be applied through a method comprising following steps:

(i) after shampooing hair, applying to the hair an effective amount of said composition for conditioning the hair, preferably in a wet state; and

(ii) optionally rinsing the hair with water after an optional leave-on time.

The leave-on time of the composition on hair may range from a few seconds to 15 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 10 minutes and even better still from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.

Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about" .

All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise indicated.

As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1 to 5 includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 as well as 1-4, 2-4, 1-3, etc.

The present invention will be further illustrated by the following examples, which set forth particularly advantageous embodiments. While the Examples are provided to illustrate the present invention, they are not intended to limit it.

Examples

Preparation example

The following cosmetic formulas were prepared, using the conventional preparation methods known in the cosmetic field, wherein the amounts are given as%by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the formulas.

Table 1

Table 2

The comparative formulas A, B and C are in comparison with the invention formula. Among them, comparative formula A contains only oleyl alcohol and C20-22 alcohol to replace the combination (a) according to the present invention; comparative formula B contains only oleyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol to replace the combination (a) according to the present invention; comparative formula C contains only C20-22 alcohol and cetearyl alcohol to replace the combination (a) according to the present invention.

Evaluation Example

The cosmetic effects such as smoothness, suppleness, moist, long lasting non-greasiness of the hair conditioned with the invention formula and comparative formulas are evaluated by 6 trained hair dressers as follows:

1. applying the invention formula and the comparative formulas on 6 gram of hair respectively, then rinsing off with water and blow-drying the hair;

2. sorting the smoothness, suppleness, moist, long lasting non-greasiness of the hair conditioned with the invention formula and comparative formulas by 5 levels, from 0 to 5. Among which:

0 represents not smooth, supple or moist at all, or very greasy;

1 represents rarely smooth, supple or moist, or fairly greasy;

2 represents somewhat smooth, supple or moist, or greasy;

3 represents smooth, supple or moist, or somewhat greasy;

4 represents fairly smooth, supple or moist, or rarely greasy; and

5 represents very smooth, supple or moist, or not greasy.

Score of 3-5 (including 3) is considered good performance, meanwhile score of less than 3 is considered not acceptable.

During the test, the texture of the composition upon application onto the keratin was observed.

During the test, it was observed that the invention formula can be easily spread on the hair and be easily rinsed off.

The results are as follows:

Table 3: Test result of compositions of Invention formulas and Comparative formulas

As shown in table 3, the invention formulas 1-4 can deliver good smoothness, suppleness and moist, and at the same time perform well in long lasting non-greasing. Invention formulas 1 and 3 even demonstrated very good texture upon application onto the keratin fibers.

The invention formula is stable over 2 months’storage, under different temperatures (4 ℃, 25 ℃, 40℃) . The stability is determined by no change in property of the formula; if the property changes, the formula is considered to be unstable.

Claims

A composition for conditioning keratin fibers comprising:

a) a combination of

i) at least one saturated fatty alcohol of formula (I) :

R1-OH (I)

wherein R1 is a linear or branched alkyl with at least 20 carbon atoms;

ii) at least one saturated fatty alcohol of formula (II) :

R2-OH (II)

wherein R2 is a linear or branched alkyl with 10-18 carbon atoms; and

iii) at least one unsaturated fatty alcohol of formula (III) :

R3-OH (III)

wherein R3 is a linear or branched alkenyl with 10-30 carbon atoms; and

b) at least one oil selected from ester of C ₆-C ₂₀ fatty acid and C ₆-C ₂₀ fatty alcohol.
The composition according to claim 1, which is silicone-free.
The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein in formula (I) , R1 is a linear or branched alkyl chain with 20-40 carbon atoms, preferably 20-30 carbon atoms, more preferably 20-24 carbon atoms.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the ester of C ₆-C ₂₀ fatty acid and C ₆-C ₂₀ fatty alcohol is of formula (IV) ,

R’-C (O) -OR” formula (IV)

wherein:

R’ and R”, same or different, represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆-C ₂₀ carbon chain; preferably in the formula (IV) , R’ and R”, same or different, represents a linear, saturated or unsaturated C ₆-C ₁₈ carbon chain; more preferably, in the formula (IV) , R’ and R” are different from each other, wherein R’ represents a linear, saturated or unsaturated C ₆-C ₁₈ carbon chain, and R” represents a linear and saturated C ₆-C ₁₈ fatty chain.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, wherein at least one oil is selected from the groups consisting of dicaprylyl maleate, hydrogenated olive oil stearyl esters, capylic/capric triglylyceride, or a mixture thereof.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 5, wherein the at least one saturated fatty alcohol of formula (I) is present in amount ranging from 0.1%to 10.0%, more preferable from 0.3%to 5.0%by weight, most preferably from 1.0%to 3.0%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 6, wherein the at least one saturated fatty alcohol of formula (II) is present in amount ranging from 1.0%to 10.0%, more preferable from 2.0%to 8.0%by weight, most preferably from 4.0%to 7.0%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 7, wherein the at least one saturated fatty alcohol of formula (III) is present in amount ranging from 0.1%to 10.0%, more preferable from 0.2%to 5.0%by weight, most preferably from 0.3%to 2.0%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 8, wherein the at least one oil selected from ester of C ₆-C ₂₀ fatty acid and C ₆-C ₂₀ fatty alcohol is present in amount ranging from 0.1%to 10.0%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 5.0%by weight, more preferably from 0.5%to 3.0%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 9, wherein the composition further comprises at least one non-ionic polymer selected from polysaccharides, for example algal extracts, gums, modified or unmodified starches, dextrins, celluloses and derivatives thereof, preferably, guar and guar modified with C ₁-C ₆ hydroxyalkyl groups.
The composition according to claim 10, wherein the at least one non-ionic polymer is present in amount ranging from 0.1%to 10.0%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 5.0%by weight, more preferably from 0.1%to 3.0%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
A composition for conditioning keratin fibers, which is silicone-free, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) a combination of

i) from 1.0%to 3.0%by weight of at least one saturated fatty alcohol of formula (I) :

R1-OH  (I)

wherein R1 is a linear or branched alkyl with 20-24 carbon atoms;

ii) from 4.0%to 7.0%by weight of at least one saturated fatty alcohol of formula (II) :

R2-OH  (II)

wherein R2 is a linear or branched alkyl with 16-18 carbon atoms; and

iii) from 0.3%to 2.0%by weight of at least one unsaturated fatty alcohol of formula (III) :

R3-OH  (III)

wherein R3 is a linear or branched alkenyl with 16-18 carbon atoms; and

b) from 0.5%to 3.0%by weight of at least one oil selected from the groups consisting of dicaprylyl maleate, hydrogenated olive oil stearyl esters, capylic/capric triglylyceride, or a mixture thereof.
The composition according to claim 12, wherein the composition further comprises from 0.1%to 3.0%by weight of at least one-ionic polymer selected from guar and guar modified with C ₁-C ₆ hydroxyalkyl groups, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Process for conditioning keratin fibers, comprising application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 to the keratin fibers.