WO2019178768A1

WO2019178768A1 - A cosmetic composition comprising beads

Info

Publication number: WO2019178768A1
Application number: PCT/CN2018/079831
Authority: WO
Inventors: Dongdong SONG; Shugin XU; Tao Zhang
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Daily Chemical (Wuhan) Co. Ltd.; Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2018-03-21
Filing date: 2018-03-21
Publication date: 2019-09-26
Also published as: WO2019179775A1

Abstract

The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to visible beads to be contained in a cosmetic composition and a process of making such beads. The beads are a new kind of beads, formed of trimethylsioxyphenyl dimethione. The process is less complicated to prepare a cosmetic composition including beads dispersed in a gel structure.

Description

A cosmetic composition comprising beads

Technical field

The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to visible beads to be contained in a cosmetic composition and a process of making such beads.

Background art

A beautiful and attractive appearance is a desire for many people. One typical sign of such an appearance is a healthy and smooth looking skin. Therefore, in order to take care on the skin, it is for many people a daily routine to apply cosmetic products such as cleansing and moisturizing products.

In the development process of cosmetic compositions, cosmetic companies manly focus on the performance of the products, for example, in that the cosmetic compositions provide a specific caring effect or are efficient in cleansing the skin while being mild at the same time. However, it is well known that besides the performance of the cosmetic products their optically appearance is a decisive aspect for customers to buy the products. Therefore, it is essential for the market impact of the cosmetic products that they have unique optical appearance making them outstanding for the consumer.

One approach to provide such an optically appealing product is to disperse colored beads in the cosmetic composition. For example, the person skilled in art knows the shower product “Nivea Lemongrass &Oil” , which is disclosed under the Mintel GNPD database number 4112195. The product contains colored beads formed by microcrystalline cellulose. Beads formed by microcrystalline cellulose can commercially be purchased from companies such as J. RETTENMAIER &

GmbH + Co KG, Germany.

Furthermore, the document EP 2942045 A1 discloses cosmetic compositions comprising alginate based pearls dispersed in an outer gel-phase. Both the outer phase and the pearls are prepared in two separate steps and then, in a third step, mixed and filled into a dispenser.

The pure fact that the state of the art discloses a few technologies to provide beads or pearls to be dispersed in cosmetic compositions should not obscure the point that there is a general need for novel technologies to provide beads or pearls for cosmetic compositions.

Summary of the Invention

Therefore, a first objective of the present invention is the provision of a new kind of beads to be contained and/or dispersed in cosmetic compositions.

Another disadvantage of many beads is that due to their chemical properties or due to the manufacturing process those beads cannot contain water insoluble caring ingredients such as tocopheryl acetate. Accordingly, another objective of the present invention is the provision of beads which are capable to contain water insoluble ingredients.

As described above, it often requires also multiple steps to provide gel based cosmetic products containing beads. In particular, it is regularly the case that the beads are prepared in a separate process and later added to the remaining cosmetic composition containing a gel phase. That means the gel phase is often formed before the addition and dispersion of the beads. Dispersing beads in a gel is rather complicated as the beads may be destroyed in the mixing process. Therefore, it is also desirable to provide a less complicated manufacturing process to provide a cosmetic composition including beads dispersed in a gel structure.

The inventors have unexpectedly found a new kind of beads to be contained in cosmetic compositions. It was surprisingly noted that a novel kind of beads can be formed by trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone.

Accordingly, a first aspect of the present invention is a process of preparing beads to be contained in a cosmetic composition comprising steps of

1) providing an oil phase comprising trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone and heating the oil phase to a temperature of at least 50℃

2) providing an aqueous phase and heating the aqueous phase to a temperature of at least 50℃;

3) adding the oil phase to the aqueous phase while stirring the aqueous phase to form beads.

After cooling the mixture of the aqueous and oil phase under normal conditions the beads can either be removed from the mixture or in the case that the mixture is already the final cosmetic composition, the beads can remain in the composition.

Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were performed under “normal conditions” . The term "normal conditions" refers to 20℃, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.

According to the invention beads are understood as visible distinct, spherical particles, which are solid or semisolid at room temperature.

In the regard to the inventive process of preparing beads it is preferred if the oil phase is heated in step 1) to a temperature of at least 55℃, preferably at least 60℃ and more preferably at least 65℃.

Furthermore, it is also preferred if the oil phase is heated in step 1) to a temperature no higher than 80℃, preferably no higher than 75℃ and more preferably no higher than 70℃.

It is generally particularly preferred if the oil phase is heated in step 1) to a temperature in the range from 60℃ to 70℃.

In the following description the term “oil phase” always refers to the oil phase which is heated up in step 1) of the process according to the invention.

According to the invention it is further preferred if the oil phase contains trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone in a total quantity from 5%to 40%by weight, preferably from 8%to 23%by weight and more preferably from 10%to 20%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the oil phase.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the oil phase contains at least one further silicone elastomer, preferably a dimethicone crosspolymer.

The total quantity of the further silicone elastomer, in particular of the dimethicone crosspolymer, in the oil phase is preferably in the range from 1%to 20%by weight, more preferably from 2%to 10%by weight and most preferably from 4%to 6%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the oil phase.

The oil phase preferably contains at least one further silicone oil, in particular a dimethicone and/or a cyclomethicone. In the case the oil phase contains a further silicone oil, it is further preferred if the total quantity of the further silicone oil, in particular the total quantity of the dimethicone and/or a cyclomethicone, is in the range from 10%to 50%by weight, more preferably from 15%to 40%by weight and most preferably from 20%to 35%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the oil phase.

Additionally, it is preferred, if the oil phase according to the invention contains at least one non-silicone oil.

In terms of the present invention oils are generally understood as substances which are liquid at 20℃, and which form two phases with water when being mixed in a ratio by weight of 1∶1.

One group of preferred non-silicone oils which can be contained in the oil phase according to the invention are natural oils, which are preferably selected from the group of soya oil, cotton seed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, simmondsia chinensis seed oil, calendula officinalis flower oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid fractions of coconut oil.

Another group of preferred non-silicone oils which can be contained in the oil phase according to the invention are selected from the group of hydrocarbon oils, whereby paraffinum liquidium is particularly preferred.

Still another group of preferred non-silicone oils which can be contained in the oil phase according to the invention are the essential oils with the exception of those which count to the group of natural oils and hydrocarbon oils. Typical examples of such oils are thymol, linalool, geraniol, citronellal and menthol.

Still another group of preferred non-silicone oils which can be contained in the oil phase according to the invention are selected from the group of triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C8-C30 fatty acids with the exception of those which count to the group of natural oils. Thereby, it particularly preferred if the non-silicone oil of the group of those triglycerides is caprylic/capric triglycerides.

Further non-silicone oils which can be contained in the oil phase according to the invention are chosen from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C2-C10-alkanols, in particular, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl/di-n-butyl/dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di (2-hexyldecyl) succinate.

Further non-silicone oils which can be contained in the oil phase according to the invention are chosen from the addition products from 1 to 5 propylene oxide units onto mono-or polyhydric C8-22-alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, e.g., PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether.

According to the invention it is further preferred, if the oil phase contains at least one lipid or wax component with a melting point in the range from 21℃ to 50℃. These lipid or wax components may for example be chosen from coconut fatty acid glycerol mono-, di-and triesters, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter) and esters of saturated, monohydric C8-C18-alcohols with saturated C12-C18-monocarboxylic acids.

Furthermore, the oil phase according to the invention may beneficially comprise at least one lipid or wax component with a melting point of more than 50℃. According to the invention, preferred examples of those wax and lipid components which can be contained in the oil phase are selected from natural vegetable waxes, e.g., candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, sugar cane wax, ouricoury wax, cork wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxes, such as orange waxes, lemon waxes, grapefruit wax, and animal waxes, e.g., beeswax, shellac wax and spermaceti. Other preferred lipid or wax components with a melting point of more than 50℃to be contained in the oil phase according to the invention are selected from hydrogenated or hardened waxes. Further lipid or wax component with a melting point of more than 50℃ are hydrocarbon waxes such as cera microcristallina.

The oil phase according to the invention is preferably also therein characterized that it contains at least one fatty alcohol containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms. According to the invention fatty alcohols are not considered as wax compound. Thereby, it is preferred if the total quantity of the fatty alcohols containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms in the oil phase is in the range from 10%to 55%by weight, more preferably from 20%to 45%and most preferably from 23%to 40%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the oil phase.

Additionally, it is preferred according to the invention if the oil phase contains tocopheryl acetate, ubichinone-10, retinyl palmitate and/or ascorbyl dipalmitate.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the oil phase contains at least one pigment or dye, meaning those, which are listed in the “List of Colorants allowed in cosmetic products” in Annex IV of the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, as updated on the 28 ^th of September 2017.

According to the invention it is further preferred if the total quantity of the substances which have a melting of more than 70℃ in the oil phase is less than 5%by weight, more preferably less than 2%by weight, still more preferably less 1%by weight, still more preferably less than 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the oil phase, or the oil phase does not contain a substance having a melting point of more than 70℃.

In the regard to the inventive process of preparing beads it is also preferred if the aqueous phase is heated in step 2) to a temperature of at least 55℃, more preferably at least 60℃and most preferably at least 65℃.

Furthermore, it is also preferred if the aqueous phase is heated in step 2) to a temperature no higher than 80℃, more preferably no higher than 75℃ and most preferably no higher than 70℃.

It is generally particularly preferred if the aqueous phase is heated in step 2) to a temperature in the range from 60℃ to 70℃.

According to the invention it is preferred if the aqueous phase used in the process of preparing beads comprises 80%to 99.5%by weight, more preferably 90%to 99%by weight and most preferably 92%by weight to 98%by weight of aqua, calculate to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

Additionally, it is preferred, if the aqueous phase used in the process of preparing beads contains at least one thickening agent. Generally, all thickening agents known by the person skilled in art can be contained in the aqueous phase used in the process of preparing beads according to the invention. Nevertheless, it was found out that it is preferred according to the invention if the thickening agent is selected from the group of polysaccharides, such as xanthan gum, chemically modified polysaccharides, such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, and polymers polymerized from the acrylic acid or a mixture comprising acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid. According to the invention more preferred thickening agents are selected from the group of xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl cellulose, carbomer and/or acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, whereby the carbomer and/or the acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer are most preferred.

Additionally, it is preferred according to the invention if the total quantity of the thickening agent in the aqueous phase used in the process of preparing beads is in the range from 0.05%to 1.0%by weight and more preferably in the range from 0.1%to 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the aqueous phase. It is further preferred, if the total quantity of the thickening agent selected from the group of polysaccharides, chemically modified polysaccharides and polymers polymerized from the acrylic acid or a mixture comprising acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid in the aqueous phase used in the process of preparing beads is in the range from 0.05%to 1.0%by weight and more preferably in the range from 0.1%to 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the aqueous phase. It is even more preferred, if the total quantity of the thickening agent selected from the group of xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl cellulose, carbomer and/or acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer in the aqueous phase used in the process of preparing beads is in the range from 0.05%to 1.0%by weight and more preferably in the range from 0.1%to 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the aqueous phase. Following this, it is most preferred, if the total quantity of the thickening agent selected from the group of carbomer and/or acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer in the aqueous phase used in the process of preparing beads is in the range from 0.05%to 1.0%by weight and more preferably in the range from 0.1%to 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

It was additionally surprisingly noted by the applicant that if the beads are formed in a process wherein the aqueous phase contains carbomer and/or acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, the beads look generally more spherical than if another thickening agent is used. For example, if hydroxypropyl cellulose and/or xantham gum are used as thickening agent it can be noted by looking at the overall distribution of beads that the number of beads, which look less spherical, is higher than for the cases where the beads were formed in the presence of carbomer and/or acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.

Hence, in a preferred embodiment of the invention the aqueous phase used in the process of forming the beads contains carbomer and/or acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and no further polymeric thickening agents. In this embodiment it is also further preferred, if the total quantity of carbomer and/or acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer in the aqueous phase used in the process of making the beads is in the range from 0.05%to 1.0%by weight and more preferably in the range from 0.1%to 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

Furthermore, it is also preferred according to the invention if the aqueous phase used in the process of preparing beads comprises at least one antimicrobial agent selected from the group of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylhexlglycerin, 1, 2-decandiol, 1, 2-hexandiol, piroctone olamine, ethylhexylglycerin, methylpropanediol, pentylene glycol and/or ethanol.

In the case the aqueous phase used in the process of preparing beads contains phenoxyethanol, it is preferred if the total quantity of phenoxyethanol is in the range from 0.1%to 0.6%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

In the case the aqueous phase used in the process of preparing beads contains methylparaben, it is preferred if the total quantity of methylparaben is in the range from 0.05%to 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

In the case the aqueous phase used in the process of preparing beads contains ethylhexlglycerin, it is preferred if the total quantity of ethylhexlglycerin is in the range from 0.05%to 0.6%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

In the case the aqueous phase used in the process of preparing beads contains 1, 2-decandiol, it is preferred if the total quantity of 1, 2-decandiol is in the range from 0.05%to 0.6%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the aqueous phase used in the process of preparing beads contains butylene glycol, propylene glycol, methylpropanediol and/or glycerol.

In the case the aqueous phase used in the process of preparing beads contains at least one substance selected from the group of butylene glycol, propylene glycol, methylpropanediol and/or glycerol it is preferred if the total quantity of those substances is in the range from 0.1%to 5%by weight, more preferably 0.5%to 3%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

Within the process of preparing beads the aqueous phase is preferably stirred while the oil phase is added to the aqueous phase. Depending on the speed of stirring, the size of the beads can be adjusted. Thereby, it was generally observed that the higher the speed of stirring the smaller are the beads formed in the process. For the cases, where a bead size in diameter of 1000 μm to 3000 μm is desired, it is preferred if the aqueous phase is stirred at a speed of 10 to 300 rpm, more preferably 50 to 200 rpm and most preferably 120 to 180 rpm.

According to the invention it is preferred if the ratio by weight between the oil phase and the aqueous phase used in the process of preparing beads is in the range from 1∶5 to 1∶300, more preferably from 1∶15 to 1∶200 and most preferably 1∶25 to 1∶100.

Once both phases are added together it is preferred if the resulting mixture is stirred while cooling down under normal conditions until the mixture reaches the ambient temperature. Afterwards the beads can be removed from the mixture by filtering or stored in the mixture for later use.

The beads according to the invention may be contained in any form of cosmetic composition, for example, a gel, an emulsion or an aqueous solution.

Accordingly, still another aspect of the present invention is a first cosmetic composition comprising the beads prepared according to the process of the present invention. It is in particular preferred, if the beads are contained in the first cosmetic composition according to the invention in a total quantity from 0.01%to 10%by weight, more preferably from 0.1%to 5%by weight and most preferably from 0.5%to 3.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the first cosmetic composition according to the invention.

One further surprising aspect of the present invention is that beads and a gel phase can be prepared in a single pot approach.

In this case it is preferred if the aqueous phase used in the process according to the invention contains as thickening agent at least one agent which is capable of forming a gel depending on the pH-value of the aqueous phase. Preferred examples of such thickening agents are known under the CTFA declaration carbomer and acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.

If it is desirable to form beads and a gel phase in a single pot approach it is further advantageous, if the total quantity of the thickening agent, which is capable of forming a gel depending on the pH-value, in particular the total quantity of carbomer and/or acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, is in the range from 0.05%to 1.0%by weight and preferably in the range from 0.1%to 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the aqueous phase. In this case it is further preferred if the aqueous phase does not contain any further polymeric thickening agent, meaning that the total quantity of any further polymeric thickening agent is 0%by weight of the aqueous phase.

Regarding the inventive process of forming beads and a gel-phase in a one pot approach, it is preferred if the pH value of the aqueous phase is chosen such that the thickening agent, which is capable of forming a gel depending on the pH-value, does not form a gel while the beads are formed in process comprising the steps 1) to 3) according to the invention.

After performing the steps 1) to 3) as disclosed above a mixture of beads dispersed in a liquid is obtained. Afterwards, the pH-value of the mixture can preferably be adjusted such that the thickening agent, which is cable of forming a gel depending on the pH-value, forms a gel network. Within this process it is further preferred if the mixture is stirred while adjusting the pH value. In this way, it is ensured that the beads are evenly dispersed in the formed gel.

In the case the mixture obtained after performing the steps 1) to 3) contains a carbomer as gel forming agent the pH-value needs to be adjusted to a pH value of above 5 to form a gel in the mixture.

in the case the mixture obtained after performing the steps 1) to 3) contains an acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer as gel forming agent the pH-value needs to be adjusted to a pH value of above 5 to form a gel in the mixture.

Another aspect of the present invention is beads to be contained in a cosmetic composition wherein the beads contain trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone. According to the invention it is preferred if the total quantity by weight of trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone in the beads is in the range from 5%to 40%by weight, more preferably from 8%to 23%by weight and most preferably from 10%to 20%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the beads.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the beads contain at least one further silicone elastomer, preferably a dimethicone crosspolymer.

The total quantity of the further silicone elastomer, in particular of the dimethicone crosspolymer, in the beads according to the invention is preferably in the range from 1%to 20%by weight, more preferably from 2%to 10%by weight and most preferably from 4%to 6%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the beads.

The beads of the present invention preferably contain at least one further silicone oil, in particular a dimethicone and/or a cyclomethicone. In the case the beads according to the invention contain a further silicone oil, it is further preferred if the total quantity of the further silicone oil, in particular the total quantity of the dimethicone and/or a cyclomethicone, is in the range from 10%to 50%by weight, more preferably from 15%to 40%by weight and most preferably from 20%to 35%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the beads.

Mixtures of silicone elastomers and silicone oils are commercially available. A typical mixture containing dimethicone crosspolymer and dimethicone is sold by the Fa. Dow Corning Corporation under the trade name Dowsil 9041Silicone Elastomer Blend. The Blend contains 85%by weight of Dimethicone and 15%by weight of Dimethicone Crosspolymer, calculated to the total weight of the blend.

Additionally, it is preferred, if the beads according to the invention contain at least one non-silicone oil.

One group of preferred non-silicone oils which can be contained in the beads according to the invention are natural oils, which are preferably selected from the group of soya oil, cotton seed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, simmondsia chinensis seed oil, calendula officinalis flower oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid fractions of coconut oil.

Another group of preferred non-silicone oils which can be contained in the beads according to the invention are selected from the group of hydrocarbon oils, whereby paraffinum liquidium is particularly preferred.

Still another group of preferred non-silicone oils which can be contained in the beads according to the invention are the essential oils with the exception of those which count to the group of natural oils and hydrocarbon oils. Typical examples of such oils are thymol, linalool, geraniol, citronellal and menthol.

Still another group of preferred non-silicone oils which can be contained in the beads according to the invention are selected from the group of triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C8-C30 fatty acids with the exception of those which count to the group of natural oils. Thereby, it particularly preferred if the non-silicone oil of the group of those triglycerides is caprylic/capric triglycerides.

Still another group of preferred non-silicone oils which can be contained in the beads according to the invention are selected from the group of oils chosen from the esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 8-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 8-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, with the restriction that those esters are liquid at 20℃.

Further non-silicone oils which can be contained in the beads according to the invention are chosen from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C2-C10-alkanols, in particular, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl/di-n-butyl/dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di (2-hexyldecyl) succinate.

Further non-silicone oils which can be contained in the beads according to the invention are chosen from the addition products from 1 to 5 propylene oxide units onto mono-or polyhydric C8-22-alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, e.g., PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether.

According to the invention it is further preferred, if the beads contain at least one lipid or wax component with a melting point in the range from 21℃ to 50℃. These lipid or wax components may for example be chosen from coconut fatty acid glycerol mono-, di-and triesters, butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter) and esters of saturated, monohydric C ₈-C ₁₈-alcohols with saturated C ₁₂-C ₁₈-monocarboxylic acids.

Furthermore, the beads according to the invention may beneficially comprise at least one lipid or wax component with a melting point of more than 50℃. According to the invention, preferred examples of those wax and lipid components which can be contained in the beads are selected from natural vegetable waxes, e.g., candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, sugar cane wax, ouricoury wax, cork wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxes, such as orange waxes, lemon waxes, grapefruit wax, and animal waxes, e.g., beeswax, shellac wax and spermaceti. Other preferred lipid or wax components with a melting point of more than 50℃ to be contained in the beads according to the invention are selected from hydrogenated or hardened waxes. Further lipid or wax component with a melting point of more than 50℃ are hydrocarbon waxes such as cera microcristallina.

The beads according to the invention are preferably also therein characterized that they contain at least one fatty alcohol containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms. According to the invention fatty alcohols are not considered as wax compound. Thereby it is preferred if the total quantity of the fatty alcohols containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms in the beads is in the range from 10%to 55%by weight, more preferably from 20%to 45%and most preferably from 23%to 40%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the beads.

Additionally, it is preferred according to the invention if the beads contain tocopheryl acetate, ubichinone-10, retinyl palmitate and/or ascorbyl dipalmitate.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the beads contain at least one pigment or dye, meaning those, which are listed in the “List of Colorants allowed in cosmetic products” in Annex IV of the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, as updated on the 28 ^th of September 2017.

According to the invention it is further preferred if the total quantity of the substances which have a melting of more than 70℃ in the beads is less than 5%by weight, more preferably less than 2%by weight, still more preferably less 1%by weight, still more preferably less than 0.5%by weight and most preferably 0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the beads.

Still, a further aspect of the present invention is a second cosmetic composition comprising beads, which contain trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, preferably beads as described above. It is in particular preferred, if these beads are contained in the second cosmetic composition according to the invention in a total quantity from 0.01%to 10%by weight, more preferably from 0.1%to 5%by weight and most preferably 0.5%to 3.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the second cosmetic composition according to the invention.

Examples:

The following examples should illustrate the present invention, without intending to limit the invention to these examples. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The following phases were prepared:

Table 1:

²Dowsil 9041Silicone Elastomer Blend from the Fa. Dow Corning containing 85%by weight of Dimethicone and 15 %by weight Dimethicone Crosspolymer

³Carbopol ETD 2020 from the Fa. Lubrizol

Table 2:

³Carbopol ETD 2020 from the Fa. Lubrizol

In order to produce the beads of the present invention, the oil phase of the individual examples Ex. 1 to Ex. 10 were heated to a temperature of 70℃ such that all ingredients melted. Additionally, the aqueous phases of the individuals Ex. 1 to Ex. 10 were also heated to a temperature of 70℃. Afterwards the heated oil phased was added to the aqueous phase. While adding the oil phase the aqueous phase was stirred at a speed of 150 rpm using anchor stirrer matching the size of the beaker containing the aqueous solution. The beads appeared immediately. The mixture was then stirred at 150 rpm until it reached ambient temperature (20℃) .

The obtained beads had a size (Diameter) of 3000-5000 μm.

To obtain a gel comprising dispersed beads, the examples Ex. 1, Ex. 2, Ex. 3, Ex. 4, Ex. 6, Ex. 7 and Ex. 8 were further stirred at 20℃ and while stirring Sodium Hydroxide was slowly added until the Examples reached a pH value above 5 and a gel structure started to build. In the end, beads dispersed in a gel network were obtained.

It was further noted that the spherical shape of the beads formed in the examples Ex. 9 and Ex. 10 was less regular than the shape of the other examples. The beads of Ex. 9 and Ex. 10 looked less spherical.

The beads obtained from the example formulations Ex. 1 and Ex. 5 were removed from the composition and added to the following compositions as indicated in the following example formulations Com. 1, Com. 2 and Com. 3.

INCl	Com. 1	Com. 2	Com. 3
Beads of Ex. 1	1	3
Beads of Ex. 5	2		2.5
GIyceryl Stearate Citrate	1.5	1.5	1.5
Cetyl Alcohol	1.0	0.5	0.5
Paraffinum Liquidum	2.0	2.0	2.0
Phenoxyethanol	0.5	0.5	0.5
Carbomer	0.3	0.2	0.2
Aqua	Ad 100	Ad 100	Ad 100

Claims

A process of preparing beads to be contained in a cosmetic composition, comprising steps of

1) providing an oil phase comprising trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone and heating the oil phase to a temperature of at least 50℃

2) providing an aqueous phase and heating the aqueous phase to a temperature of at least 50℃;

3) adding the oil phase to the aqueous phase while stirring the aqueous phase, to form beads.
The process according to claim 1 characterized in that the oil phase is heated in step 1) to a temperature of at least 55℃, preferably at least 60℃ and more preferably at least 65℃.
The process according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase is heated in step 1) to a temperature no higher than 80℃, preferably no higher than 75℃ and more preferably no higher than 70℃.
The process according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase contains trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone in a total quantity from 5%to 40%by weight, preferably from 8%to 23%by weight and more preferably from 10%to 20%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the oil phase.
The process according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase contains at least one further silicone elastomer, preferably a dimethicone crosspolymer.
The process according to claim 5 characterized in that the total quantity of the further silicone elastomer, in particular of the dimethicone crosspolymer, in the oil phase is in the range from 1%to 20%by weight, preferably from 2%to 10%by weight and more preferably from 4%to 6%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the oil phase.
The process according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase contains at least one further silicone oil, in particular a dimethicone and/or a cyclomethicone.
The process according to claim 7 characterized in that the total quantity of the dimethicone and/or a cyclomethicone is in the range from 10%to 50%by weight, preferably from 15%to 40%by weight and more preferably 20%to 35%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the oil phase.
The process according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase contains at least one non-silicone oil.
The process according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase contains at least one lipid or wax component with a melting point in the range from 21℃ to 50℃.
The process according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase comprises at least one lipid or wax component with a melting point of more than 50℃.
The process according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the oil phase contains at least one fatty alcohol containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms in a range from 10%to 55%by weight, preferably from 20%to 45%by weight and more preferably from 23%to 40%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the oil phase.
The process according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the total quantity of the substances which have a melting of more than 70℃ in the oil phase is less than 5%by weight, preferably less than 2%by weight, more preferably less 1%by weight, still more preferably less than 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the oil phase, or the oil phase does not contain a substance having a melting point of more than 70℃.
The process according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the aqueous phase is heated in step 2) to a temperature of at least 55℃, preferably at least 60℃ and more preferably at least 65℃.
The process according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the aqueous phase is heated in step 2) to a temperature no higher than 80℃, preferably no higher than 75℃ and more preferably no higher than 70℃.
The process according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises 80%to 99.5%by weight, preferably 90%to 99%by weight and more preferably 92%to 98%by weight of aqua, calculate to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
The process according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the aqueous phase contains at least one thickening agent selected from the group of polysaccharides, chemically modified polysaccharides and polymers, which are polymerized from the acrylic acid or a mixture comprising acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid, whereby the thickening agents selected from the group of xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl cellulose, carbomer and/or acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer are preferred.
The process according to claim 17 characterized in that the total quantity of the thickening agent in the aqueous phase is in the range from 0.05%to 1.0%by weight and preferably in the range from 0.1%to 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
The process according to any of claims 1 to 16 characterized in that the aqueous phase contains at least one thickening agent which is capable of forming a gel depending on the pH-value of the aqueous phase.
The process according to claim 19 characterized in that the aqueous phase contains carbomer and/or acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer as a gel forming agent in the range from 0.05%to 1.0%by weight and preferably from 0.1%to 0.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
The process according to claim 19 or 20 characterized in that after performing the steps 1) to 3) the pH-value of the mixture is adjusted to form a gel network.
The process according to any of claims 1 to 20 characterized in that ratio by weight between the oil phase and the aqueous phase is in the range from 1∶5 to 1∶300, preferably from 1∶15 to 1∶200 and more preferably from 1∶25 to 1∶100.
Beads to be contained in a cosmetic composition wherein the beads contain trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone.
The beads according to claim 23 characterized in that the beads contain trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone in a total quantity in the range from 5%to 40%by weight, preferably from 8%to 23%by weight and more preferably from 10%to 20%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the beads.
The beads according to claim 23 or 24 characterized in that the beads contain at least one further silicone elastomer, preferably a dimethicone crosspolymer.
The beads according to claim 23 characterized in that the beads contain dimethicone crosspolymer in a total quantity in the range from 1%to 20%by weight, preferably from 2%to 10%by weight and more preferably from 4%to 6%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the beads.
The beads according to any of claims 23 to 26 characterized in that the beads contain at least one further silicone oil, in particular a dimethicone and/or a cyclomethicone.
The beads according to claim 27 characterized in that the beads contain dimethicone and/or a cyclomethicone in a total quantity from 10 %to 50 %by weight, preferably from 15%to 40%by weight and more preferably from 20%to 35%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the beads.
The beads according to any of claims 23 to 28 characterized in that the beads contain at least one non-silicone oil.
The beads according to any of claims 23 to 29 characterized in that the beads contain at least one lipid or wax component with a melting point in the range from 21℃ to 50℃.
The beads according to any of claims 23 to 30 characterized in that the beads comprise at least one lipid or wax component with a melting point of more than 50℃.
The beads according to any of claims 23 to 31 characterized in that the beads contain at least one fatty alcohol containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms in a total quantity from 10%to 55%by weight, preferably from 20%to 45%by weight and more preferably from 23%to 40%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the beads.
The beads according to any of claims 23 to 32 characterized in that the beads contain tocopheryl acetate, ubichinone-10, retinyl palmitate and/or ascorbyl dipalmitate.
The beads according to any of claims 23 to 33 characterized in that the total quantity of the substances which have a melting of more than 70℃ in the beads is less than 5%by weight, preferably less than 2%by weight, more preferably less 1%by weight, still more preferably less than 0.5%by weight and most preferably 0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the beads.
A cosmetic composition comprising either the beads prepared according to the process of any of claims 1 to 22 and/or the beads according to any of claims 23 to 34.
The cosmetic composition according to claim 35 characterized in that the total quantity of the beads in the composition is in the range from 0.01%to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 5%by weight and more preferably from 0.5%to 3.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.