WO2013030253A1 - Device for treating a keratin surface, treatment kit and associated treatment method - Google Patents

Device for treating a keratin surface, treatment kit and associated treatment method Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013030253A1
WO2013030253A1 PCT/EP2012/066821 EP2012066821W WO2013030253A1 WO 2013030253 A1 WO2013030253 A1 WO 2013030253A1 EP 2012066821 W EP2012066821 W EP 2012066821W WO 2013030253 A1 WO2013030253 A1 WO 2013030253A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
particles
cosmetic
exfoliating
exfoliating particles
treatment
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2012/066821
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Dominique BORDEAU
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2013030253A1 publication Critical patent/WO2013030253A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D34/00Containers or accessories specially adapted for handling liquid toiletry or cosmetic substances, e.g. perfumes
    • A45D34/04Appliances specially adapted for applying liquid, e.g. using roller or ball
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2200/00Details not otherwise provided for in A45D
    • A45D2200/10Details of applicators
    • A45D2200/1009Applicators comprising a pad, tissue, sponge, or the like
    • A45D2200/1018Applicators comprising a pad, tissue, sponge, or the like comprising a pad, i.e. a cushion-like mass of soft material, with or without gripping means
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2200/00Details not otherwise provided for in A45D
    • A45D2200/10Details of applicators
    • A45D2200/1009Applicators comprising a pad, tissue, sponge, or the like
    • A45D2200/1036Applicators comprising a pad, tissue, sponge, or the like containing a cosmetic substance, e.g. impregnated with liquid or containing a soluble solid substance
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2200/00Details not otherwise provided for in A45D
    • A45D2200/10Details of applicators
    • A45D2200/1054Abrasive cosmetic skin peeling or scrubbing
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2200/00Details not otherwise provided for in A45D
    • A45D2200/10Details of applicators
    • A45D2200/1063Removing cosmetic substances, e.g. make-up
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2200/00Details not otherwise provided for in A45D
    • A45D2200/25Kits

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a device for treating a keratin surface, of the type including:
  • nonwoven support deformable to the touch in which the support has at least one treatment surface intended to come into contact with the keratin surface;
  • Such a device is intended in particular to peel a keratin surface of a user, and in particular peel the skin so as to remove dead skin, and/or to provide cosmetic care of the skin.
  • the device is intended to be pre-impregnated, to be used as is, or to be impregnated with a cosmetic fluid product that can be applied simultaneously to the peeling of the skin.
  • cosmetic product we mean, for example, in the sense of this invention, a product as defined in the Council Directive 93/35/EEC dated June 14, 1993.
  • the cosmetic product is, for example, a liquid, a cream, a foam, a gel or a paste.
  • exfoliating particles consist of particles dispersed in media that enable them to be kept in suspension, such as gels, emulsions, anhydrous gel oils or pasts.
  • the dispersion of exfoliating particles in the cosmetic product is not necessarily homogeneous, in particular after a long storage time.
  • the cosmetic product can therefore include areas without particles, significantly limiting its efficacy.
  • some areas of the cosmetic product may include too many exfoliating particles, causing significant irritation after contact with the skin.
  • US-2005/022351 1 describes a device of the type mentioned above, in which abrasive particles having a diameter of between 50 micrometers and 400 micrometers are attached to a surface of a nonwoven compress. These particles are attached by sintering.
  • the particles are distributed on the surface, either substantially homogeneously or in the form of strips.
  • the particles present on the surface are produced on the basis of insoluble polymers, in particular in water.
  • EP-1 961 456, EP 1 764 077, US 2006/0246027, EP 0 445 914, FR-2 860 525, FR 2 858 757, FR 2 825 246 and US 2010/0028392 also describe treatment devices comprising particles arranged on a support.
  • An objective of the invention is to obtain a device having particular exfoliating properties.
  • the invention relates to a device of the type mentioned above, characterized in that the exfoliating particles are soluble in a soaking or impregnation product intended to be applied on a keratin surface, in which the exfoliating particles comprise at least one cosmetic active agent.
  • the device according to the invention may include one or more of the following features, taken alone or in any technically possible combination:
  • the support comprises, in its thickness, an exterior region defining the treatment surface, in and on which the clusters of exfoliating particles are arranged, and a nonwoven region without clusters of exfoliating particles,
  • the average cluster size is between 10 nm and 4 mm
  • the exfoliating particles comprise at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from salts, sugars, water- and/or lipid-soluble polymers, and waxes,
  • the exfoliating particles are water-soluble
  • the exfoliating particles are attached to the support, advantageously by partial or total fusion of the exfoliating particles, by partial or total fusion of the support, or by use of a binder.
  • the invention also relates to a kit for cosmetic treatment of a keratin surface, of the type comprising a device as described above, and a soaking or impregnation product intended to be applied on a keratin surface, with the individual exfoliating particles being at least partially soluble in the soaking or impregnation product.
  • the kit according to the invention can include the following feature, taken alone or in any technically possible combination:
  • the invention also relates to a method for cosmetic treatment of a keratin surface, comprising the following steps:
  • the method according to the invention may include one or more of the following features, taken alone or in any technically possible combinations:
  • the method comprises the following steps:
  • FIG. 1 is a diagrammatic view of a first cosmetic treatment kit according to the invention, including a treatment device seen from the top view;
  • figure 2 is a partial cross-section view of the treatment device of figure 1 ;
  • figure 3 is a diagrammatic view of a cluster of exfoliating particles of the device of figure 1 ;
  • FIG. 4 shows the device according to the invention, after cosmetic treatment on the skin
  • FIG. 5 shows an alternative of the treatment device according to the invention
  • a first treatment kit 10 according to the invention is shown in figure 1 .
  • This kit 10 comprises a first cosmetic treatment device 12 according to the invention, and, advantageously, a container 14, which can be an aerosol for delivering a spray.
  • the container contains a cosmetic product 16 for soaking or impregnation (especially with a spray or droplets) intended to impregnate the device 12.
  • the kit 10 is intended for the treatment by peeling or exfoliating a keratin surface of a user (not shown).
  • the keratin surface of the user is advantageously the skin of the user, in particular at the face or the limbs.
  • the device is intended to be applied and moved over the keratin surface so as to produce a superficial abrasion on this surface, in particular so as to remove dead skin from it.
  • the device 12 comprises a support 18 deformable to the touch with a plurality of point clusters 20 of individual exfoliating particles.
  • deformable to the touch we mean that the support 18 is deformable, in particular when it is gripped and pinched between a user's fingers.
  • the support 18 advantageously forms a compress, a wipe, a patch or another thin porous support.
  • the support 18 has a low thickness, so as to form a layer, or a sheet.
  • layer or “sheet”, we mean that the thickness of the body ranges from 3% to 99.9% of its other dimensions. This thickness is in particular less than 100 mm.
  • the support 18 is thus substantially planar.
  • the support 18 defines a treatment surface 22, at the top in Figure 2, an opposite surface 24 substantially parallel to the treatment surface 22.
  • the surfaces 22, 24 define a thickness 26 of fibers linked together according to all of the methods for obtaining a nonwoven material, of low height.
  • the treatment surface 22 has a span of less than 625 cm 2 , and, for example, between 400 cm 2 and 0.025 cm 2 .
  • the treatment surface 22 carries clusters 20 of particles.
  • the support 18 thus has, according to its peripheral surface 26, an exterior contour, for example circular, oval or polygonal, such as square or rectangular.
  • the support 18 is formed based on a nonwoven body.
  • nonwoven we mean, in the sense of this invention, a substrate including fibers in which the individual fibers or filaments are arranged in a disordered manner in a sheet-like structure and which are neither woven nor knit.
  • the fibers of the nonwoven body are generally linked to one another, under the effect of a mechanical action (for example, by needle-punching, air jet, water jet, etc.), or under the effect of a thermal action, or by adding a binder.
  • Such a nonwoven material is, for example, defined by standard ISO 9092, as a web or a sheet of fibers oriented directionally or at random, bound by friction and/or cohesion and/or adhesion, excluding paper or products obtained by weaving, knitting, tufting or stitching incorporating threads or bonding filaments.
  • a nonwoven material differs from a paper by the length of the fibers used. In paper, the fibers are shorter. However, there are nonwoven materials based on cellulose fibers that are produced by wet process and have short fibers as in paper. The difference between a nonwoven material and a paper is generally the absence of a hydrogen bond between the fibers in a nonwoven material.
  • the nonwoven body is produced based on fibers.
  • the mass percentage of hot-melt fibers contained in the nonwoven sheet is greater than 0.5% and is less than or equal to 100%, advantageously between 15% and 80%.
  • the hot-melt fibers are, for example, polyolefin fibers, such as polyethylene (PE), polypropylene (PP), polyethylene terephthalate (PET) or acrylic fibers, such as polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), polyurethane fibers or the following thermoplastic fibers: polyvinyl chloride (PVC), styrene polymers (for example polystyrene PS, expandable polystyrene EPS, acrylonitrile butadiene styrene ABS terpolymer, styrene acrylonitrile copolymer, styrene butadiene SB polymer), polyamides (PA), polycarbonates (PC), saturated polyesters (for example, polyethylene terephthalate glycol PET, polybutylene terephthalate glycol PBT), polyacetals (for example, polyoxymethylene POM, trioxane ethylene oxide copolymer), polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), or fluorinated poly
  • the other fibers constituting the body are, for example, synthetic petroleum derivative-based fibers, natural plant- or animal-based fibers, and/or modified natural fibers, for example resulting from treatment or regeneration methods for forming fibers.
  • the nonwoven body may be formed from one or more webs of consolidated fibers.
  • Point particle clusters 20 are distributed over the treatment surface 22.
  • the surface density of clusters 20 as a percentage on the treatment surface 22 ranges from 0.1 % to 99.9%, and preferably from 1 % to 50%.
  • the maximum average dimension ti of each cluster 20 is less than 4 mm.
  • the clusters 20 have substantially a point shape and a circular or oval contour.
  • the clusters 20 are advantageously separate.
  • the clusters 20 at least partially project from the support 18 beyond the surface 22 so as to form an abrasive area.
  • each cluster 20 consists of a group of at least two basic exfoliating particles 30.
  • the particles 30 of each cluster 20 are substantially in contact with one another.
  • the maximum transverse dimension t 2 of each particle 30 is less than 4 mm.
  • Each cluster 20 thus generally includes more than 2 basic exfoliating particles 30, and in particular between 2 basic exfoliating particles and 80,000 basic exfoliating particles.
  • each cluster 20 is formed by a single particle 30.
  • the exfoliating particles 30 are particles soluble in a soaking or impregnation product intended to be applied on a keratin surface, in particular soluble in the cosmetic soaking product 16 contained in the container 14.
  • particles soluble in a product we mean particles soluble in the product at a concentration of greater than 0.1 % by weight with respect to the total weight of the particles taken initially before placement in solution, in which the solubilization time given to the particles to solubilize is an hour, at ambient temperature.
  • This solubility is measured in a beaker, then the agent(s) is (are) assayed.
  • the particles 30 are soluble in water and/or in oil.
  • particles soluble in water and/or in oil are salts such as NaCI, salts, sugars, such as Xylitol, polymers such as starch, dextrins, maltodextrin, cyclodextrin, or waxes, glycols of high molecular weight, vitamins such as vitamin C, water- or lipid-soluble silicas such as Aerosils, clays, and so on.
  • the particles may also be obtained by lyophilization or atomization, as described in document FR-A-2 727 312 or based on modified starch, described in documents EP-A-0 938 892 and EP-A-0 925 777.
  • the exfoliating particles 30 and the particle clusters are soluble in water, in particular when the cosmetic soaking and impregnation product 16 is water- based.
  • the exfoliating particles 30 and particle clusters 20 are soluble in oil, in particular when the cosmetic soaking and impregnation product 16 is oil-based.
  • the clusters 20 are arranged on the treatment surface, or are partially inserted in the support 18, while projecting beyond the surface 22.
  • the clusters 20 define, in the thickness of the support 18, a first exterior region 32 of the support 18, including at least particle clusters 20 and a second central region 34 without exfoliating particle clusters 20.
  • the clusters 20 are attached to the support 18.
  • the support 18 comprises fibers
  • the support 18 includes, for example, hot-melt fibers that enable attachment by partial or total fusion of the hot-melt fibers so as to adhere to the clusters 20.
  • the attachment of the particles 30 can also be performed by partial or total fusion of the particles 30 contained in the clusters 20 so that these particles 30 bind to the support 18.
  • the fusion may be simultaneous between the particles forming the clusters 20 and the hot-melt fibers of the support 18 when they are present.
  • a binder such as a polymer binder such as starch, acrylate, methacrylate, waxes and all constituents enabling the particles to adhere on the support 18 is used to attach the particles 30 to the support 18.
  • the attachment of the particles 30 on the support 18 is strong. To this end, less than 5% by mass, preferably less than 1 % by mass of the particles 30 attached on the support 18 become detached from the support 18 when the device 10 is shaken by the method described below.
  • a falling test is used by taking the article with the particles attached and dropping it 50 times on a glass support over a height of 1 meter, without giving it any momentum.
  • the amount of powder that becomes detached is quantified.
  • the particles 30 may contain one or more additives, in particular those that are anhydrous and in solid form (powder), chosen from those generally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields.
  • the additives may be chosen in particular from keratolytic agents, hydrating agents, antimicrobial agents, vitamins, anti-dandruff agents or anti- seborrheic agents, hair growing agents, sequestering agents, antioxidants, active agents, preservatives, dyes (such as pigments and hydrophilic dyes) and inorganic fillers and/or organic fillers such as modified starch.
  • keratolytic agents it is possible to cite ⁇ - hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and derivatives thereof.
  • the exfoliating particles 30 include or consist of cosmetic active agents.
  • the active agents can be chosen in particular from keratolytic agents, hydrating agents, antimicrobial agents, vitamins, anti-dandruff or anti-seborrheic agents and hair growing agents.
  • active agents that can be used in the composition of the invention, it is possible to cite, for example, enzymes (for example, lactoperoxidase, lipase, protease, phospholipase and cellulases); flavonoids; hydrating agents such as protein hydrolysates; sodium hyaluronate; polyols such as glycerin, glycols such as polyethylene glycols, and sugar derivatives; anti-inflammatories; procyanidolic oligomers; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and derivatives thereof;
  • the cosmetic soaking and/or impregnation product 16 is, for example, a water- or oil-based rinsing product.
  • the clusters 20 of particles 30 are advantageously soluble in this product.
  • the method for producing the device 12 is as follows. Initially, a nonwoven body is formed by conventional nonwoven formation techniques, such as dry methods, in particular napping or aerodynamic deposition.
  • the particles 30 are dispersed on the surface 22 and are attached on this surface 22 by forming clusters 20.
  • the particles 30 are, for example, water- or oil- soluble particles.
  • the device 12 initially comprises a nonwoven support 18 that is dry and non-impregnated with liquid.
  • the user wants to perform a cosmetic treatment on a keratin surface, for example to clean said surface, he or she takes a device 12 and impregnates this device 12 with the soaking or impregnation product 16, for example the product 16 contained in a container 14.
  • the product 16 is distributed from a source of this product.
  • the particles 30 are soluble in the soaking or impregnation product 16.
  • the user applies the treatment surface 22 against the keratin surface to be treated. Because of the presence of clusters 20 of particles 30 on this surface 22, a peeling of the keratin surface occurs, which removes dead cells and produces a superficial abrasion of the keratin surface.
  • the exfoliating particles 30 become progressively dissolved during the use of the device 12. This dissolution progressively reduces the exfoliating effect during use, preventing the keratin surface of the user from becoming damaged.
  • the use of the device 12 produces a homogeneous exfoliation effect on the keratin surface and prevents the exfoliating powder from leaking into the eyes, the hair or the corners of the mouth.
  • the progressive solubility of the particles 30 contained in the clusters 20 produces a decreasing abrasion of the keratin surface as it is used, contributing to the active cosmetic effect of the soaking product 16.
  • the presence of soluble particles prevents insoluble residues from being produced in the wastewater.
  • exfoliating particles 30 contain or consist of cosmetic active agents, their dissolution enables the peeling method to be implemented with natural compounds, and produces a synergy of association between the nonwoven material and the particles. It is thus possible to produce an abrasive action, while releasing active agents on the skin.
  • the particle clusters 20 may have disappeared partially or entirely, thereby reducing the abrasiveness of the surface 22.
  • the nonwoven support 18 is impregnated with the cosmetic water- or oil-based soaking or impregnation product 16, which solubilizes the active agents contained or forming the particles 30, which are respectively water- or lipid- soluble.
  • the particles 30 are water-soluble.
  • the nonwoven support is pre- impregnated with a lipophilic cosmetic care product 1 14, either by the user or during production of the device 1 12, as seen in figure 5.
  • the liquid product 1 14 is incapable of solubilizing the exfoliating particles 30 of the clusters 20.
  • solubility of the particles 30 in the cosmetic care product 1 14 is null, as measured by the method described above, followed by an active agent assay.
  • the product 1 14 is intended to be applied on the keratin surface simultaneously with the peeling treatment performed by the device 1 12.
  • the soaking or impregnation product 16 is added to the support 18, as described above.
  • This soaking product 16 is hydrophilic. It progressively dissolves the particles 30 of the clusters 20 so as to reduce the abrasiveness of these particles 30.
  • the cosmetic care product 1 14 impregnated in the support 12 is applied on the keratin surface synergistically with the peeling performed earlier.
  • the cosmetic active agents present in the particles 30 are then released on the keratin surface.
  • the nonwoven support 18 is impregnated with the water-based cosmetic soaking or impregnation product 16, which solubilizes the active agents contained or forming the water-soluble particles 30.
  • the lipophilic care product 1 14 is also present in the support 18. It advantageously forms an emulsion with the hydrophilic soaking or impregnation product 16 containing the active agents.
  • the particles 30 are lipid-soluble and are not water-soluble, as shown in figure 8.
  • the nonwoven support is pre- impregnated with a hydrophilic cosmetic care product 1 14, either by the user or during production of the device 1 12 as seen in figure 5.
  • the liquid product 1 14 is incapable of solubilizing the exfoliating particles 30 of the clusters 20.
  • solubility of the particles 30 in the cosmetic care product 1 14 is null, as measured by the method described above followed by an active agent assay.
  • the product 1 14 is intended to be applied on the keratin surface simultaneously with the peeling treatment performed by the device 1 12.
  • This soaking product 16 is lipophilic. It progressively dissolves the particles 30 of the clusters 20 so as to reduce the abrasiveness of these particles 30.
  • the cosmetic care product 1 14 impregnated in the support 12 is applied on the keratin surface synergistically with the peeling performed earlier.
  • the cosmetic active agents present in the particles 30 are then released on the keratin surface.
  • the nonwoven support 18 is impregnated with the oil-based cosmetic soaking or impregnation product 16, which solubilizes the active agents contained or forming the water-soluble particles 30.
  • the hydrophilic care product 1 14 is also present in the support 18. It advantageously forms an emulsion with the lipophilic soaking or impregnation product 16 solubilizing the active agents.
  • Two supports 18 based on a nonwoven viscose material, with a weight of 50 g/m 2 , are used in the form of sheets of A4 format.
  • a binding polymer for example a starch, is used to attach the Xylitol particles.
  • the Xylitol particles are used as such.
  • sample B these particles have a smaller diameter.
  • the samples are cut in the form of circular compresses with a diameter of 57 mm, using a laboratory press.
  • the samples are then soaked in an oil-based makeup removal oil for several days, until saturation.
  • a first test is performed by producing a compress with a diameter of 57 mm, using a laboratory press. This compress is soaked in 200 milliliters of static water at ambient temperature. The dissolution of the clusters 20 is then evaluated. For sample A, this dissolution occurs in a time of between 60 seconds and 75 seconds. The residual mass of clusters 20 is less than 1 % of the mass of clusters 20 present before soaking in water.
  • the dissolution occurs in between 30 and 40 seconds.
  • the care composition is of the emulsion or aqueous lotion type.

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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

This device comprises a support (18) made of a nonwoven material deformable to the touch, in which the support (18) has at least one treatment surface (22) intended to come into contact with the keratin surface. It comprises a plurality of exfoliating particles (30) attached on the treatment surface (22), in which the exfoliating particles (30) project with respect to the treatment surface (22). The exfoliating particles (30) are soluble in a soaking or impregnation product (16) intended to be applied on a keratin surface, and the exfoliating particles (30) comprise at least one cosmetic active agent.

Description

Device for treating a keratin surface, treatment kit and associated treatment method
This invention relates to a device for treating a keratin surface, of the type including:
- a nonwoven support deformable to the touch, in which the support has at least one treatment surface intended to come into contact with the keratin surface;
- a plurality of exfoliating particles attached to the treatment surface, in which the exfoliating particles project with respect to the treatment surface.
Such a device is intended in particular to peel a keratin surface of a user, and in particular peel the skin so as to remove dead skin, and/or to provide cosmetic care of the skin.
The device is intended to be pre-impregnated, to be used as is, or to be impregnated with a cosmetic fluid product that can be applied simultaneously to the peeling of the skin. By "cosmetic product", we mean, for example, in the sense of this invention, a product as defined in the Council Directive 93/35/EEC dated June 14, 1993.
The cosmetic product is, for example, a liquid, a cream, a foam, a gel or a paste.
Numerous cosmetic products containing exfoliating particles are available on the market. They consist of particles dispersed in media that enable them to be kept in suspension, such as gels, emulsions, anhydrous gel oils or pasts.
These products make it possible to perform a cosmetic treatment including peeling. They are not, however, entirely satisfactory.
In particular, the dispersion of exfoliating particles in the cosmetic product is not necessarily homogeneous, in particular after a long storage time. The cosmetic product can therefore include areas without particles, significantly limiting its efficacy. By contrast, some areas of the cosmetic product may include too many exfoliating particles, causing significant irritation after contact with the skin.
To overcome this problem, US-2005/022351 1 describes a device of the type mentioned above, in which abrasive particles having a diameter of between 50 micrometers and 400 micrometers are attached to a surface of a nonwoven compress. These particles are attached by sintering.
The particles are distributed on the surface, either substantially homogeneously or in the form of strips.
The particles present on the surface are produced on the basis of insoluble polymers, in particular in water.
EP-1 961 456, EP 1 764 077, US 2006/0246027, EP 0 445 914, FR-2 860 525, FR 2 858 757, FR 2 825 246 and US 2010/0028392 also describe treatment devices comprising particles arranged on a support. An objective of the invention is to obtain a device having particular exfoliating properties.
To this end, the invention relates to a device of the type mentioned above, characterized in that the exfoliating particles are soluble in a soaking or impregnation product intended to be applied on a keratin surface, in which the exfoliating particles comprise at least one cosmetic active agent.
The device according to the invention may include one or more of the following features, taken alone or in any technically possible combination:
- it comprises point clusters of individual exfoliating particles, with the size of the individual exfoliating particles in each cluster being less than 2 mm, and the size of each cluster being less than 4 mm,
- the support comprises, in its thickness, an exterior region defining the treatment surface, in and on which the clusters of exfoliating particles are arranged, and a nonwoven region without clusters of exfoliating particles,
- the average cluster size is between 10 nm and 4 mm,
- it carries a cosmetic care product, with the individual exfoliating particles being insoluble in the cosmetic care product,
- the exfoliating particles comprise at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from salts, sugars, water- and/or lipid-soluble polymers, and waxes,
- the exfoliating particles are water-soluble, and
- the exfoliating particles are attached to the support, advantageously by partial or total fusion of the exfoliating particles, by partial or total fusion of the support, or by use of a binder.
The invention also relates to a kit for cosmetic treatment of a keratin surface, of the type comprising a device as described above, and a soaking or impregnation product intended to be applied on a keratin surface, with the individual exfoliating particles being at least partially soluble in the soaking or impregnation product.
The kit according to the invention can include the following feature, taken alone or in any technically possible combination:
- it comprises a cosmetic care product impregnating the support or intended to impregnate the support, with the exfoliating particles being insoluble in the cosmetic care product.
The invention also relates to a method for cosmetic treatment of a keratin surface, comprising the following steps:
- providing a device as described above;
- applying the treatment surface on a keratin surface of a user; - peeling the keratin surface by means of clusters of exfoliating particles.
The method according to the invention may include one or more of the following features, taken alone or in any technically possible combinations:
- optionally, wetting the treatment surface with a soaking or impregnation product; - progressively dissolving the exfoliating particles on the treatment surface in the soaking or impregnation product so as to release the cosmetic active agents;
- before the step of wetting the treatment surface with a soaking or impregnation product, the method comprises the following steps:
- providing a cosmetic care product on the treatment surface, with the exfoliating particles being insoluble in the cosmetic care product;
- applying the cosmetic care product on the keratin surface.
The invention will be easier to understand in view of the following description, provided solely by way of example, and in reference to the appended drawings, in which:
- figure 1 is a diagrammatic view of a first cosmetic treatment kit according to the invention, including a treatment device seen from the top view;
- figure 2 is a partial cross-section view of the treatment device of figure 1 ;
- figure 3 is a diagrammatic view of a cluster of exfoliating particles of the device of figure 1 ;
- figure 4 shows the device according to the invention, after cosmetic treatment on the skin; and
- figure 5 shows an alternative of the treatment device according to the invention;
- figures 6 to 8 describe three embodiments of a treatment device according to the invention.
A first treatment kit 10 according to the invention is shown in figure 1 . This kit 10 comprises a first cosmetic treatment device 12 according to the invention, and, advantageously, a container 14, which can be an aerosol for delivering a spray. The container contains a cosmetic product 16 for soaking or impregnation (especially with a spray or droplets) intended to impregnate the device 12.
The kit 10 is intended for the treatment by peeling or exfoliating a keratin surface of a user (not shown). The keratin surface of the user is advantageously the skin of the user, in particular at the face or the limbs. The device is intended to be applied and moved over the keratin surface so as to produce a superficial abrasion on this surface, in particular so as to remove dead skin from it.
The device 12 comprises a support 18 deformable to the touch with a plurality of point clusters 20 of individual exfoliating particles. By "deformable to the touch", we mean that the support 18 is deformable, in particular when it is gripped and pinched between a user's fingers.
The support 18 advantageously forms a compress, a wipe, a patch or another thin porous support.
Advantageously, the support 18 has a low thickness, so as to form a layer, or a sheet. By "layer" or "sheet", we mean that the thickness of the body ranges from 3% to 99.9% of its other dimensions. This thickness is in particular less than 100 mm. The support 18 is thus substantially planar.
The support 18 defines a treatment surface 22, at the top in Figure 2, an opposite surface 24 substantially parallel to the treatment surface 22. The surfaces 22, 24 define a thickness 26 of fibers linked together according to all of the methods for obtaining a nonwoven material, of low height.
The treatment surface 22 has a span of less than 625 cm2, and, for example, between 400 cm2 and 0.025 cm2.
The treatment surface 22 carries clusters 20 of particles.
The support 18 thus has, according to its peripheral surface 26, an exterior contour, for example circular, oval or polygonal, such as square or rectangular.
The support 18 is formed based on a nonwoven body.
By "nonwoven", we mean, in the sense of this invention, a substrate including fibers in which the individual fibers or filaments are arranged in a disordered manner in a sheet-like structure and which are neither woven nor knit. The fibers of the nonwoven body are generally linked to one another, under the effect of a mechanical action (for example, by needle-punching, air jet, water jet, etc.), or under the effect of a thermal action, or by adding a binder.
Such a nonwoven material is, for example, defined by standard ISO 9092, as a web or a sheet of fibers oriented directionally or at random, bound by friction and/or cohesion and/or adhesion, excluding paper or products obtained by weaving, knitting, tufting or stitching incorporating threads or bonding filaments.
A nonwoven material differs from a paper by the length of the fibers used. In paper, the fibers are shorter. However, there are nonwoven materials based on cellulose fibers that are produced by wet process and have short fibers as in paper. The difference between a nonwoven material and a paper is generally the absence of a hydrogen bond between the fibers in a nonwoven material.
The nonwoven body is produced based on fibers. Advantageously, the mass percentage of hot-melt fibers contained in the nonwoven sheet is greater than 0.5% and is less than or equal to 100%, advantageously between 15% and 80%.
The hot-melt fibers are, for example, polyolefin fibers, such as polyethylene (PE), polypropylene (PP), polyethylene terephthalate (PET) or acrylic fibers, such as polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), polyurethane fibers or the following thermoplastic fibers: polyvinyl chloride (PVC), styrene polymers (for example polystyrene PS, expandable polystyrene EPS, acrylonitrile butadiene styrene ABS terpolymer, styrene acrylonitrile copolymer, styrene butadiene SB polymer), polyamides (PA), polycarbonates (PC), saturated polyesters (for example, polyethylene terephthalate glycol PET, polybutylene terephthalate glycol PBT), polyacetals (for example, polyoxymethylene POM, trioxane ethylene oxide copolymer), polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), or fluorinated polymers (for example polytetrafluoroethylene PTFE, polyvinylidene fluoride PVDF, and polychlorotrifluoroethylene PCTFE) fibers.
The other fibers constituting the body are, for example, synthetic petroleum derivative-based fibers, natural plant- or animal-based fibers, and/or modified natural fibers, for example resulting from treatment or regeneration methods for forming fibers.
The nonwoven body may be formed from one or more webs of consolidated fibers.
Point particle clusters 20 are distributed over the treatment surface 22. In the example shown in figure 1 , the surface density of clusters 20 as a percentage on the treatment surface 22 ranges from 0.1 % to 99.9%, and preferably from 1 % to 50%.
The maximum average dimension ti of each cluster 20 is less than 4 mm.
This size is, however, greater than 50 nm. The clusters 20 have substantially a point shape and a circular or oval contour.
The clusters 20 are advantageously separate.
In the example shown in figure 2, the clusters 20 at least partially project from the support 18 beyond the surface 22 so as to form an abrasive area.
As shown in figure 3, each cluster 20 consists of a group of at least two basic exfoliating particles 30. The particles 30 of each cluster 20 are substantially in contact with one another.
Thus, the maximum transverse dimension t2 of each particle 30 is less than 4 mm.
Each cluster 20 thus generally includes more than 2 basic exfoliating particles 30, and in particular between 2 basic exfoliating particles and 80,000 basic exfoliating particles.
By "exfoliating particles", we mean, in the sense of this invention, particles capable of causing wear by friction. Alternatively, each cluster 20 is formed by a single particle 30.
The exfoliating particles 30 are particles soluble in a soaking or impregnation product intended to be applied on a keratin surface, in particular soluble in the cosmetic soaking product 16 contained in the container 14.
By "particles soluble in a product", we mean particles soluble in the product at a concentration of greater than 0.1 % by weight with respect to the total weight of the particles taken initially before placement in solution, in which the solubilization time given to the particles to solubilize is an hour, at ambient temperature.
This solubility is measured in a beaker, then the agent(s) is (are) assayed.
The particles 30 are soluble in water and/or in oil. Examples of particles soluble in water and/or in oil are salts such as NaCI, salts, sugars, such as Xylitol, polymers such as starch, dextrins, maltodextrin, cyclodextrin, or waxes, glycols of high molecular weight, vitamins such as vitamin C, water- or lipid-soluble silicas such as Aerosils, clays, and so on.
The particles may also be obtained by lyophilization or atomization, as described in document FR-A-2 727 312 or based on modified starch, described in documents EP-A-0 938 892 and EP-A-0 925 777.
In one embodiment, the exfoliating particles 30 and the particle clusters are soluble in water, in particular when the cosmetic soaking and impregnation product 16 is water- based.
Alternatively, the exfoliating particles 30 and particle clusters 20 are soluble in oil, in particular when the cosmetic soaking and impregnation product 16 is oil-based.
This solubility is measured by the method described above.
The clusters 20 are arranged on the treatment surface, or are partially inserted in the support 18, while projecting beyond the surface 22.
Thus, the clusters 20 define, in the thickness of the support 18, a first exterior region 32 of the support 18, including at least particle clusters 20 and a second central region 34 without exfoliating particle clusters 20.
The clusters 20 are attached to the support 18. To this end, when the support 18 comprises fibers, for example when the support 18 is a nonwoven body, the support includes, for example, hot-melt fibers that enable attachment by partial or total fusion of the hot-melt fibers so as to adhere to the clusters 20.
The attachment of the particles 30 can also be performed by partial or total fusion of the particles 30 contained in the clusters 20 so that these particles 30 bind to the support 18. The fusion may be simultaneous between the particles forming the clusters 20 and the hot-melt fibers of the support 18 when they are present. In an alternative, a binder, such as a polymer binder such as starch, acrylate, methacrylate, waxes and all constituents enabling the particles to adhere on the support 18 is used to attach the particles 30 to the support 18.
The attachment of the particles 30 on the support 18 is strong. To this end, less than 5% by mass, preferably less than 1 % by mass of the particles 30 attached on the support 18 become detached from the support 18 when the device 10 is shaken by the method described below.
A falling test is used by taking the article with the particles attached and dropping it 50 times on a glass support over a height of 1 meter, without giving it any momentum. The amount of powder that becomes detached is quantified.
The particles 30 may contain one or more additives, in particular those that are anhydrous and in solid form (powder), chosen from those generally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields. The additives may be chosen in particular from keratolytic agents, hydrating agents, antimicrobial agents, vitamins, anti-dandruff agents or anti- seborrheic agents, hair growing agents, sequestering agents, antioxidants, active agents, preservatives, dyes (such as pigments and hydrophilic dyes) and inorganic fillers and/or organic fillers such as modified starch. As keratolytic agents, it is possible to cite β- hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and derivatives thereof.
In particular, the exfoliating particles 30 include or consist of cosmetic active agents.
The active agents can be chosen in particular from keratolytic agents, hydrating agents, antimicrobial agents, vitamins, anti-dandruff or anti-seborrheic agents and hair growing agents.
Among the active agents that can be used in the composition of the invention, it is possible to cite, for example, enzymes (for example, lactoperoxidase, lipase, protease, phospholipase and cellulases); flavonoids; hydrating agents such as protein hydrolysates; sodium hyaluronate; polyols such as glycerin, glycols such as polyethylene glycols, and sugar derivatives; anti-inflammatories; procyanidolic oligomers; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and derivatives thereof; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeast, bacteria; steroids such as dehydroepiandrosterone (or DHEA), as well as precursors and biological or chemical derivatives thereof, and natural extracts containing it and in particular Dioscorea extracts, such as wild yam; antibacterial agents such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban) and the acids indicated above and in particular salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; toning agents; ceramides; essential oils; and mixtures thereof.
The cosmetic soaking and/or impregnation product 16 is, for example, a water- or oil-based rinsing product. The clusters 20 of particles 30 are advantageously soluble in this product.
The method for producing the device 12 is as follows. Initially, a nonwoven body is formed by conventional nonwoven formation techniques, such as dry methods, in particular napping or aerodynamic deposition.
Then, the particles 30 are dispersed on the surface 22 and are attached on this surface 22 by forming clusters 20.
The use of the device 12 will now be described, according to three cases described in reference to Figures 6 to 8.
In a first case shown in Figure 6, the particles 30 are, for example, water- or oil- soluble particles. The device 12 initially comprises a nonwoven support 18 that is dry and non-impregnated with liquid.
When the user wants to perform a cosmetic treatment on a keratin surface, for example to clean said surface, he or she takes a device 12 and impregnates this device 12 with the soaking or impregnation product 16, for example the product 16 contained in a container 14. Alternatively, the product 16 is distributed from a source of this product.
The particles 30 are soluble in the soaking or impregnation product 16.
Then, the user applies the treatment surface 22 against the keratin surface to be treated. Because of the presence of clusters 20 of particles 30 on this surface 22, a peeling of the keratin surface occurs, which removes dead cells and produces a superficial abrasion of the keratin surface.
As the particles 30 of the clusters 20 are soluble in the soaking or impregnation product 16, the exfoliating particles 30 become progressively dissolved during the use of the device 12. This dissolution progressively reduces the exfoliating effect during use, preventing the keratin surface of the user from becoming damaged.
The use of the device 12 produces a homogeneous exfoliation effect on the keratin surface and prevents the exfoliating powder from leaking into the eyes, the hair or the corners of the mouth.
The progressive solubility of the particles 30 contained in the clusters 20 produces a decreasing abrasion of the keratin surface as it is used, contributing to the active cosmetic effect of the soaking product 16. In addition, the presence of soluble particles prevents insoluble residues from being produced in the wastewater.
As the exfoliating particles 30 contain or consist of cosmetic active agents, their dissolution enables the peeling method to be implemented with natural compounds, and produces a synergy of association between the nonwoven material and the particles. It is thus possible to produce an abrasive action, while releasing active agents on the skin.
As shown in figure 4, after a given time, the particle clusters 20 may have disappeared partially or entirely, thereby reducing the abrasiveness of the surface 22.
To summarize this first case, the nonwoven support 18 is impregnated with the cosmetic water- or oil-based soaking or impregnation product 16, which solubilizes the active agents contained or forming the particles 30, which are respectively water- or lipid- soluble.
In a second case, shown in figures 5 and 7, the particles 30 are water-soluble. The nonwoven support is pre- impregnated with a lipophilic cosmetic care product 1 14, either by the user or during production of the device 1 12, as seen in figure 5. The liquid product 1 14 is incapable of solubilizing the exfoliating particles 30 of the clusters 20.
Thus, the solubility of the particles 30 in the cosmetic care product 1 14 is null, as measured by the method described above, followed by an active agent assay.
The product 1 14 is intended to be applied on the keratin surface simultaneously with the peeling treatment performed by the device 1 12.
To this end, the soaking or impregnation product 16 is added to the support 18, as described above.
This soaking product 16 is hydrophilic. It progressively dissolves the particles 30 of the clusters 20 so as to reduce the abrasiveness of these particles 30.
Simultaneously, when the user applies the device 1 12 on a keratin surface, the cosmetic care product 1 14 impregnated in the support 12 is applied on the keratin surface synergistically with the peeling performed earlier.
The cosmetic active agents present in the particles 30 are then released on the keratin surface.
To summarize this second case, the nonwoven support 18 is impregnated with the water-based cosmetic soaking or impregnation product 16, which solubilizes the active agents contained or forming the water-soluble particles 30. The lipophilic care product 1 14 is also present in the support 18. It advantageously forms an emulsion with the hydrophilic soaking or impregnation product 16 containing the active agents.
In a third case, similar to the second case, the particles 30 are lipid-soluble and are not water-soluble, as shown in figure 8. The nonwoven support is pre- impregnated with a hydrophilic cosmetic care product 1 14, either by the user or during production of the device 1 12 as seen in figure 5. The liquid product 1 14 is incapable of solubilizing the exfoliating particles 30 of the clusters 20.
Thus, the solubility of the particles 30 in the cosmetic care product 1 14 is null, as measured by the method described above followed by an active agent assay.
The product 1 14 is intended to be applied on the keratin surface simultaneously with the peeling treatment performed by the device 1 12.
To this end, soaking or impregnation product 16 is added to the support 18, as described above.
This soaking product 16 is lipophilic. It progressively dissolves the particles 30 of the clusters 20 so as to reduce the abrasiveness of these particles 30.
Simultaneously, when the user applies the device 1 12 on a keratin surface, the cosmetic care product 1 14 impregnated in the support 12 is applied on the keratin surface synergistically with the peeling performed earlier.
The cosmetic active agents present in the particles 30 are then released on the keratin surface.
To summarize this third case, the nonwoven support 18 is impregnated with the oil-based cosmetic soaking or impregnation product 16, which solubilizes the active agents contained or forming the water-soluble particles 30. The hydrophilic care product 1 14 is also present in the support 18. It advantageously forms an emulsion with the lipophilic soaking or impregnation product 16 solubilizing the active agents.
As an illustration, examples of embodiments of the invention will now be described. Two supports 18 based on a nonwoven viscose material, with a weight of 50 g/m2, are used in the form of sheets of A4 format.
A binding polymer, for example a starch, is used to attach the Xylitol particles. In a first sample A, the Xylitol particles are used as such. In sample B, these particles have a smaller diameter.
The samples are cut in the form of circular compresses with a diameter of 57 mm, using a laboratory press. The samples are then soaked in an oil-based makeup removal oil for several days, until saturation.
No solubility of the clusters 20 is observed in the oil after two months, and no detachment of particles 30 is observed after two months by the test described above.
Then, a particle cluster 20 solubility test is performed.
A first test is performed by producing a compress with a diameter of 57 mm, using a laboratory press. This compress is soaked in 200 milliliters of static water at ambient temperature. The dissolution of the clusters 20 is then evaluated. For sample A, this dissolution occurs in a time of between 60 seconds and 75 seconds. The residual mass of clusters 20 is less than 1 % of the mass of clusters 20 present before soaking in water.
For sample B, the dissolution occurs in between 30 and 40 seconds.
Two other samples A and B are produced with compresses impregnated with a care composition. The care composition is of the emulsion or aqueous lotion type.
These results show that it is possible to produce a very solid attachment of the clusters 20 of exfoliating particles 30 on a support 18, while providing a progressive dissolution of these clusters 20 during their use.
The term "one" should generally be understood as meaning "at least one" unless otherwise indicated.

Claims

1 . - Device (12; 1 12) for cosmetic treatment of a keratin surface, including:
- a support (18) made of a nonwoven material deformable to the touch, in which the support (18) has at least one treatment surface (22) intended to come into contact with the keratin surface;
- a plurality of exfoliating particles (30) attached on the treatment surface (22), in which the exfoliating particles (30) project with respect to the treatment surface (22);
characterized in that the exfoliating particles (30) are soluble in a soaking or impregnation product (16) intended to be applied on a keratin surface, in which the exfoliating particles (30) comprise at least one cosmetic active agent.
2. - Device (12; 1 12) according to claim 1 , characterized in that it comprises point clusters (20) of individual exfoliating particles (30) in which the size of the individual exfoliating particles (30) in each cluster (20) is less than 2 mm, and the size of each cluster (20) is less than 4 mm.
3.- Device (12; 1 12) according to claim 2, characterized in that le support (18) comprises, in its thickness, an exterior region (32) defining the treatment surface (22), in and on which the exfoliating particle clusters (20) are arranged, and a nonwoven material region (34) without exfoliating particle clusters (20).
4. - Device (12; 1 12) according to any one of the previous claims, characterized in that the average size of the clusters (20) is between 10 nm and 4 mm.
5. - Device (1 12) according to any one of the previous claims, characterized in that it carries a cosmetic care product (1 14), in which the individual exfoliating particles (30) are insoluble in the cosmetic care product (1 14).
6. - Device (12; 1 12) according to any one of the previous claims, characterized in that the exfoliating particles (30) comprise at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from salts, sugars, water- and/or lipid-soluble polymers, and waxes.
7. - Device (12; 1 12) according to any one of the previous claims, characterized in that the exfoliating particles (30) are water-soluble.
8. - Device (12; 1 12) according to any one of the previous claims, characterized in that the exfoliating particles (30) are attached to the support (18), advantageously by partial or total fusion of the exfoliating particles (30), by partial or total fusion of the support (18) or by use of a binder.
9. - Kit (10) for cosmetic treatment of a keratin surface, of the type comprising a device (12; 1 12) according to any one of the previous claims, and a soaking or impregnation product (16) intended to be applied on a keratin surface, in which the individual exfoliating particles (30) are at least partially soluble in the soaking or impregnation product (16).
10. - Method for cosmetic treatment of a keratin surface, characterized in that it comprises the following steps:
- providing a device (12; 1 12) according to any one of the claims 1 to 10;
- applying the treatment surface (22) on a keratin surface of a user;
- peeling the keratin surface using clusters (20) of exfoliating particles.
1 1 . - Method according to claim 10, characterized in that it comprises the following steps:
- optionally, wetting the treatment surface (22) with a soaking or impregnation product (16);
- progressive dissolution of the exfoliating particles (30) on the treatment surface (22) in a soaking or impregnation product (16) so as to release the cosmetic active agents.
12. - Method according to claim 1 1 , characterized in that, before the step of wetting the treatment surface (22) with a soaking or impregnation product (16), the method comprises the following steps:
- providing a cosmetic care product (1 16) on the treatment surface (22), in which the exfoliating particles (30) are insoluble in the cosmetic care product;
- application of the cosmetic care product (1 16) on the keratin surface.
PCT/EP2012/066821 2011-08-31 2012-08-30 Device for treating a keratin surface, treatment kit and associated treatment method WO2013030253A1 (en)

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FR1157678 2011-08-31
FR1157678A FR2979208B1 (en) 2011-08-31 2011-08-31 DEVICE FOR TREATING A KERATINIC SURFACE, NECESSARY FOR TREATMENT AND PROCESSING METHOD THEREOF

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EP0445914A1 (en) 1990-02-02 1991-09-11 Hercules Incorporated Carrier composition and method
FR2727312A1 (en) 1994-11-24 1996-05-31 Oreal COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF COMPACT POWDER AND PREPARATION METHOD
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FR2825246A1 (en) 2001-06-05 2002-12-06 Oreal CONDITIONING AND / OR APPLICATION DEVICE CONTAINING FIBERS CONTAINING PARTICLES CAPABLE OF ABSORBING A LIQUID OR A COMPOUND IN SOLUTION IN THIS LIQUID OR OF DISSOLVING IN A LIQUID
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FR2979208A1 (en) 2013-03-01

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