WO2008043644A2 - Use of dandelion extract for thickening hair and stimulating hair growth - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of an agent containing active ingredients obtained from plants of the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum) for treating hair, in particular for revitalising hair, stimulating the energy metabolism in hair follicles, activating the hair follicles, promoting or strengthening hair growth, thickening the hair, treating hair loss and conditioning hair.

Description

 Use of dandelion extract to promote hair thickness and to stimulate the

hair growth

description

The present invention relates to the use of an agent containing active ingredients which are obtainable from plants of the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum) for the treatment of hair.

The human skin with its appendages is a very complex organ composed of a variety of different cell types. Every living cell of this organ is able to respond to signals of its internal and external environment. These reactions of the cells are realized by an orderly regulation on gene and protein level, so that the metabolism of skin cells and their appendages is not static but very dynamic. However, the reactions of the skin and / or its appendages to environmental changes should not be considered as reactions of isolated isolated cells. Rather, each cell is integrated into a complex communication network. This network includes e.g. the communication between cells of the epidermis and cells of the dermis. At the communication between the cells of the skin and / or their appendages, signal molecules, e.g. Interleukins, growth factors (e.g., KGF, EGF or FGF), etc. are involved.

Hair follicle cells undergo a genetically determined cycle of growth, regression, and resting phase. The hair follicle is thus the only organ that constantly renews itself and thus, depending on the respective growth phase, has a unique metabolism. Thus, the hair follicle's metabolism almost completely stops in the resting phase and is also reinitiated with each new beginning of another cycle.

This cycle is controlled by a small, highly specialized cell population in the hair bulb, the dermal papilla cells, which control hair growth through a complex set of molecular signals specific to each phase of the hair cycle (Botchkarev VA et al. (2003) J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc 8: 46-55).

The genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum) probably contains more than 500 different species, some of which are difficult to determine. Alone for the subalpine and alpine level of Austria 70 small species are indicated. The dandelion is already one of the longer known natural herbs. It is known, for example, that dandelion stimulates the digestive organs, as well as the kidneys and bladder, and therefore has a diuretic effect. Furthermore, dandelion is used in folk medicine for blood purification, rheumatic diseases, gout, eczema, liver disease and diuresis.

DE 4331252 A1 discloses the use of hair gel for external treatment in the case of hair loss and hair growth, which inter alia comprises cold pressed juice from the cell tissue root meristem of a green weed plant (eg ribwort, dandelion, nettle shrub), mixed with alcohol , contains.

DE2255341 describes a hair tonic for the promotion and revival of hair growth which, in addition to other constituents, contains the aqueous extract of dandelion (roots and stems).

It has now surprisingly been found that in the use of agents containing active ingredients which are obtainable from plants of the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum) on the hair, scalp or hairy skin hair growth is improved.

Furthermore, it has surprisingly been found that the agents containing active substances obtained from plants of the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum) are suitable for stimulating the release of growth factors and fortifying the hair by stimulating the proliferation of hair keratinocytes.

Also surprisingly, an increase in the layer thickness of the "Outer Rooth Sheath" keratinocytes could be detected, which indicates a thickening of the hair.

The present invention therefore relates to the use of an agent containing active compounds which are obtainable from plants of the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum) for the treatment of hair, in particular for stimulating hair growth and for thickening and strengthening the hair.

Dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum) is thereby particularly preferably selected from Leontodon autumnalis (autumn dandelion), Leontodon borii, Leontodon carpetanus, Leontodon cichoraceus, Leontodon crispus (curly dandelion), Leontodon croceus, Leontodon duboisii, Leontodon filii, Leontodon hellecius, Leontodon helveticus (Swiss dandelion), Leontodon hirtus, Leontodon hispidulus, Leontodon hispidus (Steep-haired dandelion or Rough dandelion), Leontodon incanus (Gray dandelion), Leontodon keretinus, Leontodon marracanus, Leontodon mbrocephalus, Leontodon montanus (Mountain dandelion), Leontodon muelleri, Leontodon pyrenaicus, Leontodon repens, Leontodon rigens, Leontodon salzmannii, Leontodon saxatilis (Rock dandelion), Leontodon schischkinii, Leontodon siculus, Leontodon taraxacoides (Nodding dandelion), Leontodon tuberosus, Taraxacum officinale (Common dandelion), Taraxacum serotinnum (Loess dandelion), Taraxacum bessarabicum (Dandelion), Taraxacum laevigatum (heather dandelion), Taraxacum aquilonare (dwarf dandelion, Taraxacum alpinum (Alpine dandelion), Taraxacum alpestre (black dandelion) or mixtures thereof.

Since the genus dandelion includes a variety of species, only a small selection of species is listed here. However, this should not be limiting for the subject of the present invention.

Taraxacum officinale of the company Frutarom Switzerland Ltd. is preferred according to the invention. used. Among active ingredients obtainable from plants of the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum), according to the invention the plant itself, its plant parts, extracts and pressed juices of the dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum), in particular from the herb, as well as from these extracts to be recovered active substances understand. Particular preference is given to using extracts of Taraxacum officinale from the root of the plant.

Preferably, the pressed juices or extracts of herb (the above-ground parts of plants) and / or root, in particular the leaves, fruits, flowers, stems, roots, tubers and / or seeds of the dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum) won.

Preference is given to aqueous extracts or aqueous-alcoholic extracts or aqueous-organic extracts of the dandelion plant (Leontodon or Taraxacum) or mixtures thereof.

The extracts may be prepared with water, as well as polar or nonpolar organic solvents, as well as mixtures thereof in a manner known to those skilled in the art. Extracts which can be obtained by extraction with ethanol or water / ethanol mixtures and press juice are preferred here.

In addition to ethanol, the active ingredients of the dandelion plant (Leontodon or Taraxacum) can also be obtained by extraction with other alcohols, for example with methanol, propanol, isopropanol and / or propylene glycol.

It is possible to use both the extracts in the original extractant and extracts / compressed juice in water or other organic solvents and / or mixtures thereof, in particular ethanol, and also ethanol / water mixtures. Preferably, extracted or pressed material is used as a solid to which the solvent (in particular as gently as possible) was removed. But it can also be used those extracts / pressed juices, where the solvent was partially withdrawn, so that a thickened extract / pressed juice is used. In particular, the extracts and / or compressed juices are used in solid form.

Preferably, the ratio for aqueous-alcoholic extracts is the ratio of alcohol to water between 1: 1 to 1: 2 or 1: 3.

It has been shown that the use of agents containing active ingredients that are available

Plants of the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum), to a suggestion of

Hair growth and strengthening the biologically active part of the hair lead.

Thus, an increase in the expression of growth factors KGF (keratinocyte growth factor,

Keratinocyte Growth Factor, Example 8) and the increased release of HGF (Hepatocyte Growth

Factor, Example 9) can be detected.

The hair thickness can be strengthened and strengthened. By influencing the hair thickness already in the hair roots, the hair can regrow vigorously and healthy, without

By-effects such as the accumulation of care substances on the hair fiber.

A particular influence on the use of agents containing active ingredients which are obtainable from plants of the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum) was found on the thickening of the hair.

An increase of the layer thickness of the "Outer Rooth Sheath" keratinocytes could be found

(Example 10).

The thickening of the hair prevents effects such as "over-care" of the hair.The hair grows from the root to strengthened and with a larger diameter, so that this effect is particularly long-lasting.

Furthermore, it has been found that the hair in its structure, its growth and its metabolism are positively influenced by the inventive application of said agents. The gene expression of the important hair genes was significantly regulated by the use of the agent according to the invention.

The active compounds obtainable from plants of the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum) are preferably used in hair treatment compositions, in particular shampoos, hair conditioners, hair gels, hair lotions, hair treatments, hair tonics, hair creams, hair lotions, hair sprays and hair tinctures.

The application of these agents is usually topical, wherein the agent simply by spraying into the hair or on the scalp, massage, apply and / or kneading is applied. After the application of the agent in the form of hair gel, hair lotions, hair conditioner, hair tonic, hair cream,

Hair lotion, hair spray and hair tincture, it is usually not necessary but of course possible to rinse the hair or scalp again or treat with other additional means to achieve a positive effect of the applied agent.

For shampoo and hair conditioner, the agent can be rinsed off after a contact time.

This rinsing can be done with pure water or a commercially available shampoo.

Exposure times of 10 seconds to 15 minutes have proven sufficient in most cases.

Regardless of the exact course of the treatment, it has proven to be advantageous to apply the means at a temperature of 20 to 55 ° C, in particular from 35 to 40 ⁰ C, apply.

However, it is advantageous if agents are used, after their application, the active ingredients of the dandelion plant (Leontodon or Taraxacum) can remain in the hair and are not washed out. As a result, a temporally improved penetration of active ingredients is granted to the hair follicle.

However, there are basically no restrictions on the way in which the means can be applied to the hair.

Active ingredients obtainable from plants of the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum), preferably the pressed juices and / or extracts of dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum) are preferred in said agents in amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire preparation, included. Amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred, amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred, and amounts of 0.01 to 2 wt .-% are very particularly preferred.

Of particular interest according to the invention are Haartonics, especially as a leave on formulation. These are preferably used at room temperature, the alcoholic content is preferably in the range of about 30% to about 35% and the pH should be about pH 7. Especially in Haartonics, the use of liposome-encapsulated drugs that are available from plants of the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum) has proven to be advantageous.

The encapsulation of the active compounds obtainable from extracts and / or press juices from the plant of the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum), with subsequent encapsulation in liposomes is particularly preferred. Such liposomes can be used in particular in Haartonics. In the encapsulated liposomes, in addition to the active ingredients of the dandelion plant (Leontodon or Taraxacum) further substances may be encapsulated, which are useful for the application. Although the use according to the invention of the aforementioned hair treatment compositions are preferred, the agents containing the active ingredients of the plants of the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum), particularly preferably pressed juice or extracts of Taraxacum officinale, may also be added to other hair treatment agents, such as hair dyes and waving agents become. These agents then optionally contain the known substantive dyes, precursors for oxidation dyes (developer and coupler components) and oxidizing or reducing agents.

Advantageously, the agents can thus protect the hair from the stress of dyeing and activate the hair follicles and thus promote hair thickening.

The agents used according to the invention can be used, for example, in the form of creams, lotions, solutions, waters, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (known as phase inversion emulsions, PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, gels , Sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols are present. These are usually formulated on an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic basis. As alcoholic component while lower alkanols and polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol are used. Ethanol and isopropanol are preferred alcohols. Water and alcohol may be present in the aqueous alcoholic base in a weight ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1. Water and aqueous-alcoholic mixtures which contain up to 50% by weight, in particular up to 25% by weight, of alcohol, based on the mixture of alcohol and water, can be preferred bases according to the invention. The pH of these preparations can in principle be between 2 and 11. It is preferably between 2 and 7, with values of 3 to 5 being particularly preferred. To adjust this pH, virtually any acid or base that can be used for cosmetic purposes can be used. Usually, acids are used as acids. Acid acids are understood to mean those acids which are absorbed as part of normal food intake and have positive effects on the human organism. Exotic acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. In the context of the invention, the use of citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred. Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.

The funds can be made up as a single-chamber system or as a two-chamber system.

In addition to the mandatory active ingredients of the dandelion plant (Leontodon or Taraxacum), the agents used in the invention may in principle contain all other known to those skilled in such cosmetic means components. Thus, the agents used according to the invention may preferably additionally comprise protein hydrolysates. Preferably, they are cationized protein hydrolysates, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate is derived from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives, those listed under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and cited: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiC, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl SiCl Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltr Imonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed SiCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein , Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurydimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiIk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxylpropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiIk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Sick, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

Furthermore, film-forming substances can additionally be incorporated into the formulations, which are absorbed by the hair and thus thicken directly and perceptibly. Suitable preferred film formers are known to those skilled in the art and are selected, for example, from polymers, e.g. Polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidone and copolymers thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, such an agent used according to the invention contains a hair growth stimulating agent. Particularly preferred hair growth stimulating agents are those compounds which are selected from 5-α-

Reductase inhibitors, Minoxidil (6-piperidino-2,4-pyrimidinediamine-3-oxide) and Aminexil

(Diaminopyrimidinoxid).

Particularly suitable 5-α-reductase inhibitors are functional C 2 -C 12 -carboxylic acids and their physiologically tolerable metal salts, in particular 10-hydroxydecanoic acid,

Hydroxydecenoic acid and its derivatives, derivatives of C3-C9 polyols, phenol derivatives,

Plant extracts, fragrances, flavonoids, isoflavonoids, 6,7-disubstituted

2,2-dialkylchromans or chromenes, aluminum chlorohydrate, 2-phenylethanol, etidronic acid, 7-

Acetyl-1, 1, 3,4,4,6-hexamethyltetralin, tropolone derivatives, esters of sulfuric acid with alkoxylated

C8-C18 fatty alcohols and their physiologically acceptable metal salts, esters of phosphoric acid and triphosphoric acid with monovalent to hexavalent hydroxy compounds, silicic acid esters, isolable mycosporin-like amino acids (MAA) from marine organisms and quaternary

Silicone compounds.

By derivatives are meant in particular their salts, esters and amides.

Very particular preference is given to 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 10-hydroxydecenoic acid and finasteride

(N-tert-butyl-3-oxo-4-aza-5α-androst-1-ene-17β-carboxamide) and their derivatives.

In a further preferred embodiment, the hair growth-stimulating effect of the active ingredients can be improved by their use in agents containing active ingredients which are obtainable from plants of the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum). Particular preference is given to those agents which, in addition to the active compounds obtainable from dandelion plants (Leontodon or Taraxacum), particularly preferably (aqueous) extracts or pressed juices from Taraxacum officinale, containing at least one further active ingredient selected from 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 10-hydroxydecenoic acid, minoxidil and finasteride. Most preferably, the hair growth stimulating agent is also selected in this combination from minoxidil and finasteride.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives which can preferably be used in the compositions according to the invention are, for example, nonionic surfactants such as, for example, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, in particular ethoxylated castor oil, alk (en) yloligoglucosides, fatty acid polyglycol ethers. N-alkylglucamides, polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters and polysorbates. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional or narrow homolog distribution. anionic surfactants, in particular alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, soaps and sulfosuccinic mono- and

-dialkylester having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl ester having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, zwitterionic surfactants, in particular the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N , N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example, the cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example Kokosacylaminopropyl- dimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazoline with in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate, ampholytic surfactants such as, for example, N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N Alkyl taurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group, nonionic polymers w For example, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes, thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose gum. Derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. As polyvinyl alcohol, structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, such as soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils, Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and

Diethylene glycol, symmetrical and unsymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers with a total of between

12 to 36 C atoms, in particular 12 to 24 C atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl -n-octyl ether, n-

Octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert. Butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl n-octyl ether,

Fatty alcohols, in particular linear and / or saturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 C atoms, and

Monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 6 to 24 carbon atoms,

Fatty acid fiber structure-improving agents, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose, conditioning agents such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, eg. Sunflower oil, orange oil,

Almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach kernel oil as well as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg

Lecithin and cephaline, quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,

Defoamers like silicones,

Dyes for staining the agent,

Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,

Light stabilizers, in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines, other substances for adjusting the pH, such as α- and ß-

hydroxy

Active ingredients such as allantoin and bisabolol,

Cholesterol,

Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,

Fats and natural or synthetic waxes,

fatty acid,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates,

Hydrogencarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers

Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,

pigments

Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine,

Thiomalic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid, Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air, antioxidants.

Preferred fatty alcohols are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 -C 30, preferably C 10 -C 22 and very particularly preferably C 12 -C 22, carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are known, for example, under the names Stenol®, e.g. Stenol® 1618 or Lanette®, e.g. Lanette® O or Lorol®, e.g. Lorol® C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, e.g. Crodacol® CS, Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16 or Isocarb® 24 to be purchased. Of course, according to the invention, wool wax alcohols, such as are commercially available under the names Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet® or Fluilan®, can also be used. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight.

The fatty acids used may preferably be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. These include, for example, the isostearic acids, such as the commercial products Emersol® 871 and Emersol® 875, and isopalmic acids, such as the commercial product Edenor® IP 95, as well as all other fatty acids sold under the trade names Edenor® (Cognis). Other typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsatisfactory incurred fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuts, which consist of

Coconut oil or palm oil are available; In particular, the use of is usually preferred

Stearic acid.

The amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. The amount is preferably 0.1-10% by weight, with amounts of 0.1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.

As natural or synthetic waxes, solid paraffins or isoparaffins, montan wax, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP may preferably be used according to the invention. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies which can advantageously be used according to the invention include, for example: vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils. liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n - undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The commercially available compounds 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol® S) and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol® OE) may be preferred.

Esteröle. Ester oils are the esters of C6-C30 fatty acids with C2-C30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are Isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassiyl alcohol. dyl alcohol and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. Particularly preferred according to the invention are isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® IPM), isononanoate C16-18-alkyl ester (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol® B) , Myristyl myristate (Cetiol® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2) ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonat, butanediol di-isostearate, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat, symmetrical, asymmetric or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC),

Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,

Fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides.

The amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions used according to the invention is usually 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular 0.1 to 15% by weight. -%.

The agents used in the invention may also contain surfactants. These may be anionic, ampholytic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants as well as cationic surfactants.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, for example in a shampoo, a combination of anionic and nonionic surfactants or a combination of anionic and amphoteric surfactants used. However, in a hair tonic, the skilled person can also largely or completely dispense with the use of surfactants.

It has proven advantageous in individual cases to select the surfactants from amphoteric or nonionic surfactants.

Suitable anionic surfactants in the agents used according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.

Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 ° C Atoms (soaps),

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula R-O- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x-CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and

Sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, - alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x-OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030, sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene-propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37

23,354,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to

DE-A-39 26 344, Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates, amide ether carboxylic acids as described in US Pat EP 0 690 044, condensation products of C8 - C30 fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and derivatives thereof which are known to the person skilled in the art as protein fatty acid condensates, for example the Lamepon® types, Gluadin® types, Hostapon® KCG or the Amisoft® types.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having from 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and protein fatty acid condensates.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear

Fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide

glycerin,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -Alkylmono- and -oligoglycoside and their ethoxylated analogs and addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, with a methyl or C 2 -C 6 -alkyl radical endgruppenverschlossene addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those under the sales name Dehydol® LS , Dehydol® LT (Cognis) available types,

Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercial product Hydagen® HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis), alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters,

Amine oxides,

Hydro xymischether, as described for example in DE-OS 19738866,

Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,

Addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type.

The preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.

Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R ¹ O- (Z) _x . These connections are identified by the following parameters.

The alkyl radical R ¹ contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When so-called "oxo-alcohols" are used as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only one particular alkyl radical R ¹ . Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.

Particular preference is given to those alkyl polyglycosides in which R ¹ consists essentially of C ₈ and C ₁₀ alkyl groups, essentially of C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ alkyl groups, essentially of C ₈ to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or essentially of C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups. As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 4.

In addition to their surfactant action, the alkyl glycosides can also serve to improve the fixation of fragrance components on the hair. The person skilled in the art will therefore prefer to use this substance class as a further constituent of the preparations according to the invention in the event that an effect of the perfume oil on the hair which exceeds the duration of the hair treatment is desired.

The alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologs may contain on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

Furthermore, zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as cosurfactants. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁽⁾ or -SO ₃ ⁽⁾ group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropyldimetic acid thylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylgly- cinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Also particularly suitable as co-surfactants are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ₈ alkyl- -C ₈ -alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or - contain SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming inner salts , Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C - Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkyl aminopropionate the, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C ₂ -i ₈ acyl sarcosine.

According to the invention, the cationic surfactants used are, in particular, those of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines.

Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkyl methylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.

The compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.

In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs which obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alkoxides as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

Also advantageous has proved the use of vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives.

According to the invention, such vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a. Vitamin B1 (thiamine)

- Vitamin B2 (riboflavin)

Vitamin B3. Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The said compounds of the vitamin B5 type are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal). Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent ,

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

The preparations used according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Of course, several vitamins and vitamin precursors may also be present at the same time.

Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

The amount of vitamins and vitamin precursors used in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.0001-10% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.0001-5% by weight, and in particular 0.0001-3% by weight. %.

Finally, other plant extracts can be used in the agents used according to the invention.

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant. With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, particular reference is made to the extracts listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the ingredient declaration of cosmetic products, issued by the Industrieverband Körperpflege- und Waschmittel eV (IKW), Frankfurt.

The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

One or more of these plant extracts may be used in the agents used, the active compounds which are obtainable from plants of the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum).

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

With regard to further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, eg. B. Kh. Schrader, bases and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book publisher, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced.

Accordingly, an object of the present invention is the use of an agent containing active ingredients which are obtainable from plants of the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum), which agent may contain additional ingredients selected from protein hydrolysates, film-forming substances, other hair growth stimulating agents, nonionic surfactants , anionic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, ampholytic surfactants, nonionic polymers, thickeners, perfume oils, dyes, light stabilizers, antioxidants, anti-dandruff agents, blowing agents and / or reducing agents.

Another object of the present invention is the use, in particular the cosmetic use for vitalization of hair, stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of hair growth, hair thickening, treatment of hair loss and hair conditioning. Very particular preference is given to the use of an agent containing active compounds which are obtainable from plants of the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum) for the treatment of hair.

It is preferred that the active substances are obtained from compressed juices and / or extracts of the plants of the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum).

A further subject matter of the present invention is a process, in particular a cosmetic process, for revitalizing hair, stimulating energy metabolism in hair follicles, activating hair follicles, promoting or enhancing hair growth, hair thickening, treatment of hair loss and for hair conditioning. containing active ingredients obtainable from plants of the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum), applied to the hair or the hairy skin

The following examples illustrate the invention without, however, limiting it to:

All figures are in weight percent (w%).

Information on the substances used in the examples:

Extract from dandelion Frutarom Switzerland Ltd. Taraxaci Hba. C. Rad. Ext. A sicc.

Carbopol ETD2020

Noveon (Quimidroga)

Acrylic acid copolymer

ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSPOLYMER

Protein extract from soy

Cosmetochem

PROPYLENE GLYCOL, AQUA, GLYCINE SOY SEED EXTRACT

Tea extract

Cosmetochem

CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACT Octopirox®

Clariant

Hydroxy-4-methyl-6 (2,4,4-trimethylpentyl) -2-pyridone-monoethanolamine salt

PIROCTONE OLAMINE

Rovisome CT

Rovi pH 5.5-6.5 MD 200-500nm

AQUA (WATER), ALCOHOL DENAT., LECITHIN, CARNITINE TARTRATE

Cremophor A25

Cremophor O (formerly)

BASF

Fatty alcohols, C16-18, ethoxylated (25 EO)

CETEARETH-25

FAEOS-Na C12-14 2 EO 70% Cognis Deutschland GmbH SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE

Antil 141 L

Goldschmidt (Degussa)

Polyethoxypropylene glycoldioleate

PROPYLENE GLYCOL, PEG-55 PROPYLENE GLYCOL OLEATE

C * Pharm 02010 Cerestar (Inter-Harz GmbH) Glucose H2_0 * D (+) - Grape sugar H2_0 GLUCOSE

PEG-40 hvdroαenated Castor OiI 455

Cognis Germany GmbH

PEG-40 HYDOGENATED CASTOR OIL, PROPYLENE GLYCOL

Euperlan PK 3000 AM Cognis Germany GmbH

AQUA (WATER), GLYCOL DISARTARATE, GLYCERINE, LAURETH-4, COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE,

FORMIC ACID

Timiron Supersheen MP-1001

Iriodin Ti 100 FK (formerly)

Merck

MICA, Cl 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)

Cutina CP

Cutina CP V (formerly) Cutina CP PF (formerly) Cognis Germany GmbH Cetyl palmitate (vegetable base) CETYL PALMITATE

Eumulqin B2

Disponil B 3

Cognis Germany GmbH

Fatty alcohols, C16-18, ethoxylated (30 EO)

CETEARETH-30

Genamine KDMP

Clariant

Trimethyl-N (C20-22-alkyl) ammonium chlorides * N, N, N-BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE

Structure XL (28-030A)

National Starch

HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE

Wacker-Belsil ADM 8020 VP

brave

AMODIMETHICONE, TRIDECETH-5, GLYCERINE, TRIDECETH-10

Gluadin WQ

Cognis Germany GmbH, AQUA (WATER), LAU RD I MON IUM HYDROXYPROPYL HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN, ETHYLPARABEN, METHYLPARABEN

Protein hydrolyzates, wheat germ, (3- (dodecyldimethylammonio) -2-hydroxypropyl), chlorides about 30-35% content

Gluadin WLM

Cognis Germany GmbH

Wheat protein hydrolyzate in H2O

INCI declaration [INCI] HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN

Salary about 20-24%

Cetiol HE

Cognis Germany GmbH

Coconut monoglyceride ethoxylated (7 EO)

INCI declaration [INCI] PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE

Aiidew NL 50

Ajinomoto

Pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid sodium salt

Na-PCA

SODIUM PCA

Arlypon F

Cognis Germany GmbH

Lauromacrogol JP 12 (Pharmacopoeia of Japan)

* NLP

C12-14 fatty alcohols ethoxylated (2.5 EO)

LAURETH-2

Synthal K Synthal KD (old) 3V Sigma polyacrylic acid CARBOMER

Neutrol TE BASF Tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine * N, N, N ', N', - Edetol TETRAHYDROXYPROPYL ETHYLENEDIAMINE

Formulierunqsbeispiele

Example 1: Hair Tonic

Water ad 100

Carbopol ETD 2020 0.1

D-biotin 0.01

Allantoin 0.5

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI 0.15

D-panthenol 0.1

Ethanol denatures 40

Protein extract from soybean 0.3

Glycerol 0.2

Extract tea 0.2

Dandelion extract 0.01

Example 2: Hair Tonic

Water, fully desalinated ad 100

D-panthenol 75% 0.2

Allantoin 0.2

Benzophenone-4 0.05

Synth K 0.3

Neutral TE 0.25

Ethanol 96% DEP denatures 40

Octopirox 0.2

Menthol, of course, 0.03

Perfume Donna E-0103703 0.3

Dandelion extract 0.01

Example 3: Hair Tonic

D-panthenol 75% 0.2

Allantoin 0.1

Water, fully desalinated ad 100

Rovisome CT 40

Ethanol 96% DEP denatured 35

Cremophor A25 0.2

Caffeine 0.1

Dandelion extract 0.01 Example 4: Shampoo

FAEOS-Na C12-14 2EO 70% 15,4

Caustic soda 50% standard 0.2

City water U-K ad 100

Citric acid monohydrate standard 0.6

Antil 141 L 0.5

Arlypone F 0.6

Glycine 0.3

C * Pharm 02010 1

Caffeine anhydrous 0.1 alpha-bisabolol, of course 0.1

Magnesium chloride dandruff 0.02

D-panthenol 75% 0.4

Nicotinic acid amide 0.2

Salicylic acid 0.2

Disodium cocoamphodiacetate 7.5

Na benzoate 0.5

POLYQUATERNIUM 10 0.3

Perfume 0,7

CetioI HE 1, 5

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI 455 0.4

Sodium chloride fine-medium 0.1

Dandelion extract 0.1

Example 5: Care shampoo

FAEOS-Na C12-14 2EO 70% 15,4

Caustic soda 50% standard 0.15

City water U-K ad 100

Citric acid monohydrate standard 0.7

Antil 141 L 0.3

Arlypon F 0.2

Gluadin WQ 0.1

Euperlan PK 3000 AM 5

Pantolactone, dandruff 0.2

Timiron Supersheen MP-1001 0.14

Salicylic acid 0.2

Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate 8

Na benzoate 0.5

Gluadin WLM 0.5

Hydrogenated Castor OiI 0.2

Cetiol HE 0.5

Sodium chloride fine medium 0.3

POLYQUATERNIUM 10 0,8 Dandelion extract 0.1

Example 6: Care rinse

Cutina CP 0.6

Eumulgin B 2 0.4

Cetearyl alcohol 5

Genamine KDMP 4

Propylparaben 0.2

Benzophenone-4 0,4

Structure XL (28-030A) 0, 8

City water U-K ad 100

Methylparaben 0.2

Phenoxyethanol, pure 0.4

Wacker-Belsil ADM 8020 VP 2

Ajidew NL 50 0.5

Glycine 0.4

Dandelion extract 0.2

Example 7: Determination of cell vitality of cultured fibroblasts after treatment with dandelion extract

The determination of the vitality of cultured cells provides information about the status of the cells. With this analysis, both cell-damaging substance concentrations can be defined, as well as cell-activating drug effects can be determined.

The vitality of cultured cells is determined by redox dyes. These dyes penetrate into the cell and are reduced by electron uptake on the outer mitochondrial membrane. This reduction requires a dye change, which is determined photometrically below. To quantify vitality, the untreated control is set equal to 100% and the readings of the substance-treated samples are referenced thereto. At a relative vitality of less than 80% one speaks of cell-damaging, with greater / equal to 120% of cell-activating substance effects.

Table 1: Relative vigor after treatment of fibroblasts with dandelion extract of different concentrations

In a concentration range of 62.5 μg / ml to 500 μg / ml, treatment with dandelion extract in the investigated fibroblasts does not lead to cell-damaging effects.

Example 8: Determination of the proliferation of fibroblasts after treatment with dandelion extract

The determination of the proliferation of cultured cells provides information about the status of the cell division of the treated cells. With this analysis, both cell division stimulating and inhibiting substances can be defined. An outstanding feature during cell division is the doubling of the DNA. During the new synthesis, nucleotides are incorporated into the newly formed DNA strand. The proliferation can be measured by offering a non-natural nucleotide derivative (Bromo deoxy uridine, BrdU) to the cells for re-synthesis, which can subsequently be detected with specific antibodies. The amount of newly synthesized DNA can now be fluorometrically guantified and provides proportional information about the degree of cell division processes.

To determine proliferation, the untreated control is set equal to 100% and the measurements of the substance-treated samples are referenced thereto. At a relative proliferation of less than 80% one speaks of inhibitory, with greater / equal to 120% of stimulating substance effects.

Table 2: Relative proliferation after treatment of fibroblasts with dandelion extract of different concentrations [mean (SD)]

Test concentration (μg / ml) 0 62.5 125 250 500

Proliferation [%] 100 (11) 79 (22) 68 (17) 51 (16) 36 (14)

In a concentration range from 125 μg / ml to 500 μg / ml, treatment with dandelion extract in the fibroblasts tested leads to proliferation-inhibiting effects. From this result it can be deduced that negative toxicological effects, such as tumor promotion in fibroblasts, are excluded by treatment with dandelion extract.

Example 8: Detection of Differential Expression of Hair-Relevant Genes Hepatocyte Growth Factor (HGF) and Keratinocyte Growth Factor (KGF) are important growth factors synthesized by the dermal papilla cells. Specifically, HGF stimulates follicular growth and KGF stimulates keratinocyte proliferation. Accordingly, HGF and KGF are increasingly expressed in the growth phase. These properties are contrasted with the expression of TGF-2 and IGFBP-3. These gene products shift the cycle from the growth to the regression phase. After application of substances that cause effects on the biologically active part of the hair, the determination of changes in the expression of these genes could provide information about hair growth stimulants or inhibitors.

The differential gene expression of the target genes was determined by means of quantitative reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction (QRT-PCR) -PCR. After culturing the dermal papilla cells, they were incubated with dandelion extract at concentrations of 0.1 and 0.01% for 6 to 72 hours. To carry out the PCR, the RNA is first isolated from the dermal papilla cells using the RNeasy Mini Kit from Qiagen and transcribed into cDNA by means of reverse transcription. In the subsequent PCR reaction, which is carried out with the aid of gene-specific primers for the respective hair-relevant genes and which serves to amplify the gene sections sought, the formation of the PCR products is detected online via a fluorescence signal. The fluorescence signal is proportional to the amount of the PCR product formed. The stronger the expression of a particular gene, the greater the amount of PCR product produced and the higher the fluorescence signal.

To quantify gene expression, the untreated control is set equal to 1 and the expression of the genes to be determined referred to (x-fold expression). In this case, values which are greater than or equal to twice the expression or less than or equal to the O.δfachen expression of the untreated control are classified as significantly differentially expressed.

Table 3: Influence of dandelion extract 0.01% on the expression of hair-relevant genes

Average

KGF 5.08 (1, 45)

TGF 2 0.91 (0.14)

IGFBP3 0.77 (0.20)

Treatment with dandelion extract results in significant induction of KGF gene expression. Based on this expression profile, induction of keratinocyte proliferation and thus hair thickening can be inferred. The tendency for reduced expression of IGF BP3, however, indicates a better stimulation of hair growth.

Example 9: Detection of the release of growth factors

The two growth factors Hepatocyte Growth Factor (HGF) and Keratinocyte Growth Factor (KGF) are important regulators of hair growth. In a potentially growth-enhancing and hair-strengthening substance may be due to an increase in the factors released into the medium be assumed. The secretion of HGF and KGF can be quantified using commercially available ELISA kits.

For this purpose, the organotypic hair follicle model was incubated with dandelion extract for 72 h and the concentration of growth factors in the medium was quantified in the manner described.

Table 4: Increase in KGF and HGF release in [%] after treatment of the organotypic hair follicle model compared to untreated controls with dandelion extract 0.1%

Average

KGF 5 (10)

HGF 142 (21)

The treatment with dandelion extract (0.1%) after treatment of the hair follicle model leads to a significant increase of HGF protein release by 142% compared to the untreated control. The growth factor KGF was not affected. The difference to the results of the differential gene expression shown in example 3 lies in the fact that here an end point of the accumulated growth factors is determined over the entire period of the experiment. In contrast, in the case of differential gene expression, the degree of expression of particular genes is detected at the respective time.

HGF is secreted by the dermal papilla, the control center of the hair follicle, to control cell proliferation in the hair matrix. Increased proliferation can thicken the hair matrix and potentially affect the volume of the hair fiber.

Example 10: Detection of the Increase of the Layer Thickness

Physiological effects of treatment with potential agents for hair thickening can be determined by increasing the Outer Root Sheath Keratinocyte layer thickness in the hair follicle model by histologically analyzing three hair follicle models after 72 hours of incubation with drug or reference medium: fixation in 4 % Paraformaldehyde, staining with propidium iodide and microscopic analysis In the following, the thickness of the ORS keratinocyte layer of the hair follicle model is randomly measured and the results are presented in relation to the untreated control.

Table 5: Increase in the layer thickness after treatment of the hair follicle model with dandelion extract (0.1%) compared to the untreated control

Layer thickness of the ORS keratinocytes Average dandelion extract 0.1% 20 (1 1)

After treatment with dandelion extract an increase of the ORS keratinocyte layer thickness by 20% could be determined.

Claims

claims

1. Use of an agent containing active ingredients which are obtainable from plants of the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum) for the treatment of hair.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the active substances are obtained from compressed juices and / or extracts of the plants of the genus dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum).

3. Use according to claim 2, characterized in that the extracts are aqueous extracts or aqueous-alcoholic extracts or aqueous-organic extracts or mixtures thereof.

4. Use according to claim 3, characterized in that in aqueous-alcoholic extracts of the alcohol is selected from the group consisting of methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol.

5. Use according to claim 4, characterized in that in aqueous-alcoholic extracts, the ratio of alcohol to water between 1: 1 to 1: 2 or 1: 3.

6. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 5 for vitalizing hair, promoting or enhancing the hair growth, hair thickening, treatment of hair loss and hair conditioning.

7. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum) is selected from Leontodon autumnalis (autumn dandelion), Leontodon borii, Leontodon carpetanus, Leontodon cichoraceus, Leontodon crispus (curly dandelion) , Leontodon croceus, Leontodon duboisii, Leontodon filii, Leontodon hellecius, Leontodon helveticus (Swiss dandelion), Leontodon hirtus, Leontodon hispidulus, Leontodon hispidus (Steep haired dandelion or Rough dandelion), Leontodon incanus (Gray dandelion), Leontodon keretinus, Leontodon marracanus, Leontodon mbrocephalus, Leontodon montanus (mountain dandelion), Leontodon muelleri, Leontodon pyrenaicus, Leontodon repens, Leontodon rigens, Leontodon salzmannii, Leontodon saxatilis (rock dandelion), Leontodon schischkinii, Leontodon siculus, Leontodon taraxacoides (Nodding dandelion), Leontodon tuberosus, Taraxacum officinale (Common Dandelion), Taraxacum serotinnum (Lö Taraxacum bessarabicum (salt dandelion), Taraxacum laevigatum (heather dandelion), Taraxacum aquilonare (fumitory) Dandelion, Taraxacum alpinum (Alpine dandelion), Taraxacum alpestre (Black dandelion) or mixtures thereof.

8. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the active ingredients, from the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, tubers and / or seeds of the dandelion plant (Leontodon or Taraxacum) are obtained.

9. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the proportion of active ingredients from the dandelion plant (Leontodon or Taraxacum) of 0.001 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.01 to 5% by weight in the total composition.

10. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the agent contains additional ingredients selected from protein hydrolysates, film-forming substances, other hair growth stimulating agents, nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, ampholytic surfactants, nonionic polymers, thickeners, Perfume oils, dyes, sunscreens, antioxidants, anti-dandruff agents, propellants, reducing agents.

11. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the agent is a hair treatment agent, in particular shampoo, hair conditioner, hair gel, hair tonic, hair tonic, hair conditioner, hair cream, hair lotion, hair spray and hair tincture.

12. A method for activating hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of hair growth, hair thickening, treatment of hair loss and hair conditioning, characterized in that one applies according to one of claims 1 to 11 to be used means on the hair or the hairy skin.