US2304052A

US2304052A - Stocking and method of making the same

Info

Publication number: US2304052A
Application number: US413088A
Authority: US
Inventors: Charles A Kaufman
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1941-10-01
Filing date: 1941-10-01
Publication date: 1942-12-01
Anticipated expiration: 1959-12-01
Also published as: BE549586A; GB567362A

Description

1942- c. A. KAUFMAN 2,304,052

STOCKING AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Oct. 1, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet l ill!!! INVENTOR.

, than A-.Kawfma 'JITTORNEYS e 1, 1942- c. A. KAUFMAN 2,304,052

STOCKING AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Oct. 1, 1941 2 Sheets -Sheet 2' v MENTOR. (ha/flea. fl

HTT'ORNEYS 4 Patented Dec. 1, 1942 UNITED STATES STOCKING AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SA Charles A. Kaufm Application October 1,

12 Claims.

My present invention relates generally to a full fashioned stocking toe and the manner of its formation.

I have chosen to disclose the principles of my invention by reference to the looped toe of the well known French foot which is knitted fullfashioned as a flat fabric and is closed at its bottom by a seam which runs lengthwise centrally of the bottom thereof. This reference is for convenience of disclosure and is not intended to give rise to an implication that my invention is to be construed as limited thereby or as comprising merely improvements in this type of toe.

The full fashioned knitted toe fabric is a limp, flexible, web-like structure which is stretchable and distortable. Because of this, the finished toe will assume that collapsed condition into which it may or will normally fall or into which it is put, unless it is expanded as for example on a form or on the foot. However, when worn, the toe is forced into a three-dimensional conformation closed at the tip and comprising a top, a bottom, and an intermediate section which can be idealized as essentially a vertical wall encompassing the toe sides and front.

The toe of a French" foot has the characteristics that the flat full fashioned fabric of which it is formed ends in a relatively wide straight front edge; the front edge of the toe fabric is closed widthwise, e. g. by a looping operation which widthwise closing is in addition to the aforementioned bottom scam; the finished toe has a straight front end which is relatively blunt in the horizontal and relatively sharp in the vertical; the closing of the toe tip by looping, results in a horizontal ,widthwise seam in front of and at a level approximately midway of the thickness (vertical) of the toes; and the toe tip is formed by bringing down the front ends of the top and the bottom of the toe to the line of this widthwise seam. The probable theory underlying this toe construction is that the increased flexibility at the looped length increases the facility with which and the extent to which thelarge toe can stretch the fabric at the straight front tip into a fit.

Looping is an added operation which delays production and adds to expense. It is therefore one of the more-general objects of my invention to providea manner of'closing a full fashioned toe without the added "operation of looping.

It is a further general object of my invention that fit and comfort at the stocking toe be attained by a manner of construction that can be described as tailored," in that the conformation an, New York, N. Y.

1941, Serial No. 413,088

which my stocking toe takes when expanded on the foot is normal for the resulting toe structure. This is to be distinguished from the aforementioned known practice where fabric stretching is a calculated and necessary element of the fit.

For the attainment of these objectives, my invention contemplates that the toe fabric shall be knit and closed so as to reflect these observations I have made of the human toes; the tip of the large toe is located close to the'longitudinal central vertical plane through the ankle; since the large toe protrudes substantially forwardly beyond the other toes, its front tip can be s2 :1 to be the front of the toe assembly; this tip of the large toe tapers forwardly to ablunted rounded end; the thickness (vertical) of the tip of the large toe can be accepted as being the thickness of the toe assembly and therefore as fixing the requirement for fit and comfort with respect to the toe height. I

In order that my manner of attaining my aforementioned objectives may be understood, reference will again be made to the fact that the hitherto known full fashioned French foot type of toe has its tip or front end relatively wide and straight and therefore blunt in the horizontal. In the hitherto known French foot, this results from the fact that the toe portionof the full fashioned flat fabric from which such toe is 30 formed, ends in a relatively wide front edge and the added closing operation'such as looping. and

which in turn increases the degree to which the tip of the toe can be stretched. Such a toe is therefore characterized by a straight closing line 5 effect across and midwayof the height (thickness of the toes of a wearer) and to which line the front edges of the toe top and bottom are brought.

The closing is completed by seaming together the side or selvedge edge of the toe fabric to give the 40 bottom seam which is so characteristic of the "French" foot. This seam terminates however at one end at the aforementioned horizonta? closing which is approximately half-way up the toe height. t

A full fashionedtoe made in accordance with my invention will have its tip relatively narrower and therefore relatively sharper when measured in the horizontal. 'I'his'res'ults from .the relatively narrower front edge to the fabric from which my toe is formed and the mannerwhich I employ for closing the tip. I effect the closing ,fof the 'tip'of the toe by doubling over the front edge of the fabric section about its central-point 'and then joining or seaming the doubled 'over halvesof that edge. The finished toe when .wom,

will show as a result, a vertical seam centrally and to the front of the toes. The doubling over of the front edges can be incidental to the doubling over the toe fabric section longitudinally centrally thereof, in which event the bottom seam and aforemenioned seam closing the tip can be performed in a single operation.

It will be observed that the seam closing the tip will be of a length approximating the width of the folded front edge of the fabric. Therefore by predetermining the narrowed width of the front edge of my fiat knitted toe fabric so hereinafter.

My invention revolves about the aforementioned observations as to the dimensions and shape of the toes, and idealization of the shape and fit of the stocking toe when in encasing relation thereto, and the disadvantages incident to the added operation of looping.

, For the attainmentof these objects and such other objects as. may here or hereinafter be pointed out, I have illustrated applications of the principles of my invention, in the drawings, wherein:

Figure 1 shows the front portion of-the fullfashioned fiat knitted foot fabric, as it may appear after the completion of the knitting operation;

Figure 2 shows the fabric of Figure 1, on a somewhat enlarged scale, folded centrally of its long dimensions preparatory to seaming;

Figure 3 shows the stocking foot completed and folded fiat as it would appear after board- Figure 4 is a perspective view of the stocking toe on a form;

Figure 5 is a diagrammatic showing of a toe, viewed bottom up, made in accordance with the principles of my invention however somewhat conventionalized to assist in understanding the principles underlying my invention;

Figures 6 and 8 are showings similar to Figure l of two variations of that embodiment;

Figures "I and 9 show the fabrics of Figures 6 and 8 respectively, doubled over, preparatory to seaming; and

Figure 10 is a. view similar to Figure 1 of another embodiment.

A full-fashioned stocking fabric and the undue stretching is a minor and incidental factor in that expanded conformation.

Figure 1 shows a full-fashioned toe fabric knit in accordance with my invention to illustrate one manner whereby principles thereof may be applied to the toe of the French foot type. This toe portion can be assumed to start with the end III of the instep. The remainder of the stocking foot including as it does *the instep portion A and the reinforced sole portions B shown as widening out in the usual cradle foot formation, may be conventional.

The toe fabric is defined by the side or selvedge edges l5 and the front edge or edge x-x and in my preferred form of Figure 1 comprises the central section D, the side or selvedge sections 0 (two) and the intermediate sections E (two), all in lateral relation across the width of the fabric. The central section D and the two side or selvedge sections C each narrows progressively with the'knitting and to such degree that each of the three sections finally tapers to a point.

The central section D is defined between the v two symmetrically inclined rows of narrowing marks referred to as sutures indicated at 2|.

These rows meet approximately centrally 'of the front edge X-X. The two side or selvedge sections C are each defined on the outside by one stocking toe formed therefrom is aweb-like structure which is stretchable, distortable, limp and not form sustaining. I will therefore premise that the showings in the various figures of the drawings are somewhat diagrammatic, are not intended to be realistic or precise as to the conformation which the'toe or its parts will take under any particular circumstances, and are primarily to assist in an understanding of the principles of my invention. j

The disclosure of my invention assumes that the knitted fabric of the embodiment of Figure 1 looks about as shown in that figure when it has been removed from the machine and before closing, and that when the toe is worn (see Figure 4) the conformation to which it is expanded isof the selvedge edges l5 and on the inside by another row of narrowing marks indicated by 2| The intermediate sections E are each defined by sutures 20 and the adjacent sutures 2i These two rows of narrowings are parallel throughout their length and therefore the sections E will each be of uniform width throughout it entire length and will incline toward the other with the inclination of the sutures. It will be observed that in Figure 1 the front edge of X-X of the toe fabric is comprised of the combined widths of the two intermediate sections E, and that neither the central section D nor the side sections C, present a substantial component in the width of that front edge x-x. This results from the fact that the knitting is controlled so that the three sections 0 and D all taper to points at the same moment in the knitting operation.

My invention contemplates that the area of the toe fabric be sufficient to encase the toes without undue stretching and that its dimensions and shape be such as to give the desired character of fit. It also contemplates that the dimensions and shape of the sections be such that each assumes its intended and predetermined position with relation: to the toes of the wearer. For example: the section D is intended to approximate the top of the human toes and the two selvedge sections C seamed at 40' to approximate the bottom-0f the human toes; and the sections E seamed at 40 centrally, vertically of the tip of the toe (when on the foot of the wearer) forms what has been referred to broadly as in effect a normal for the toe structure in that temporary vertical wall 35 at thesides and front of the toes as shown in Figure 4.

It is a feature of the preferred embodiment of Figures 1 to 4 that the width of each section E be made' approximately equal to the height (thickness) of the tip of the large toe. :This is subject to variationasdesired and will for the purposes of this disclosure be assumed to be approximately 1; to /2 inch.. The two sections E in this preferred embodiment provide a height for the stocking toe when expanded on the foot of phwetgrer which is that required by the height of In the drawings I have attempted to differentiate between the manner in which the respective sections are knit by showing the wales thereof. The wales 25 of the section D run parallel to the long dimension of the'fabric and decrease in number as the section tapers; the wales 26 of the sections E (to be hereinafter referred to as gores) run parallel to its sutures; and the wales 21 of the sections C run parallel to the selvedges l5. V

The fabric of Figure 1 may be knitted on a full fashioned hosiery machine of the Cotton type, such as the Reading machine, by using the ordinary two sets of narrow and wide narrowing fingers with which these machines are customarily equipped. These narrow and wide narrowing fingers are spaced during operation usually relatively one needles distance apart and by the customary action of the machine, shift inwardly spaced knitted loops with untransferred loops, causing narrowing marks indicated as sutures 20 and 2| to be produced, the lateral separation of which is based on the number of needles used in the narrow fingers. The traverses of the yarn carriers conform with the action of the wide fingers thereby causing the fabric to narrow in width. Y r

The fabric transferred inwardly by the narrow fingers is shown at E, whereas the fabric transferred by the wide fingers is shown at C. The inward transferring of E and C causes the parallel sutures 20 and 2| to be formed. This action causes section D to narrow while the usual trans ferring action of the wide fingers causes the width of sections C and the width of the entire fabric likewise to diminish proportionately.

If desired, a small additional bit of fabric F, for example two or more courses, may be knitted beyond the line XX to prevent back ravelling from the toe tip before seaming. This' added section F can be disposed of in any convenient manner. I prefer to seam it in during the seaming operation. Its depth is governed by that preference. This extra fabric F is of the width and no wider than the front edge x x of the toe fabric. I have found that if this added section F is knitted of a material such as cotton, and particularly if it is knit tight, the likelihood of runs at this point is minimized.

The knitting and narrowing of the toe is continued until the inner edges of the narrow fingers approximately meet at the center of the line X-X. This will cause the sutures 20 likewise approximately to meet and the section D will have tapered to a point. The normal action of the machine will have caused section C likewise to have narrowed proportionately with D and therefore each section will have tapered to an approximate point, suture 2| being formed during the process. The narrowing action of the machine will then cease and the section F is knitted as previously mentioned.

Where the stockings are to have looped heels,

the knitted fabric may b brought to the loopers to close the heel before the footis seamed. For seaming, the toe of the stocking is folded on the line YY (Figure 1) with the selvedges l5 held together. seaming may be started at either end and continued along I5 to unite these selvedges. It will be observed that thus the two sections E joined together at 40, will form a smooth segmentary portion of the toe, well adapted to fit the contours of the human foot and without the necessity of a looping operation or the presence of a line of looping.

Figure 5 is intended to demonstrate some of the broad principles underlying my invention and to that end the expanded toe is shown'somewhat conventionalized. The bottom (shown flat and as comprised of the two selvedge sections C seamed at 40 tapers relatively sharply to its tip end; this is also true of the toe top (not shown in this figure). The toe structure is shown in this figure as completed by a vertical wall comprised of the gores E joined centrally of the tipby the vertical continuation of the bottom seam 40 As the width of these gores in the preferred form of Figures 1 to 4 is predetermined to approximate the height of the toes as hereinabove defined, this vertical wall will consequently also be of this height and thereby when expanded as when worn, will give a fit without requiring undue stretching of the fabric.

In the fabric of Figure l the sections C and D are shown as tapering to points, leaving the front edge of the fabric comprised entirely of the front edges of the gores E. I can attain the broader objects of my invention without following this practice. fabric of Figure 6 wherein the section C6 and D6 are left with front edges of measurable width when the knitting ceases and the front edge of the fabric. is comprised not only of the front edges of the two gores but also of the front edges of the two selvedge sections C6 (measured on each side from X6 to M6) and also of the front edge of the central section D6 (measured from N6 on one side of the central point Z6 to N6 on the other side). It will be observed here that the front edges of the two selvedge sections C are of the same width and together equal the width of the front edge of the central section D6.

The fabric of Figure 6 may if desired be knitted as by the apparatus suggested hereinabove for the making of the fabric of Figure 1, except that the narrow fingers have fewer points. This will reduce the number of the wales 266 in the gores E6, narrow the spacing of. the two parallel inclined rows of sutures 256 and 266, and thereby narrow the width of these gores so that when the knitting operation ceases the sections C and D will not have tapered to points as is the case in the fabric of Figure 1. This will leave untransferred, and terminating in open loops at the front edge of the fabric, those wales 216 of the sections C6 which end between X6 and-M6 and those wales 256 of the section D6 which end between the points N6 and N6.

Figure 8 is another exemplification of the practice of Figure 6, wherein however, gores E6 are shown each as tapered at its front end to a diamond point P located midway between the central point Z6 of the front edge of the toe fabric "and one or the other of the outer end points X6 thereof. As a. result, the front edge of the fabric of Figure 8 is comprised one-half of the front edges of the. two selvedge sections G6 which again are of equal width and onehalf of the front edge of the central section D6. The knitting of the diamond points can be effected in the well known manner now in use or in any other preferred or desired manner. As the fabric of this Figure 8 differs from-that of Figure 6 only in these aforementioned respects, the same reference characters, however primed, have been applied to the parts in Figure 8 as to the corresponding parts in Figure 6 and the disclosure as to details made of Figure 6 will otherwise applyalso to Figure 8. w

The embodiments thus far described exemplify This I will exemplify by the applications of the broad principles of my invention. Each discloses; (a) a toe fabric section,'wherein the rows of sutures incident to full fashioning, terminate in the front edge of the fabric section; and a .width to the front edge which is predeterminedly reduced as aforementioned; (b) a manner of closing the tip of the toe which comprises doubling over the front edge about its central point andfthen joining its two halves. This may be done by seaming and in one practice by a seam which is continuous with the bottom seam; (c) a finished toe which, when expanded on the foot of the wearer, has its tip end, when measured in the horizontal, relatively narrower, i. e., less blunt and when measured in the vertical, relatively more blunt; and has its corresponding rows of sutures in end to end alignment and extending continuously around the tip of the toe, to which therefore the fashioning is extended; and has its gores and their wales joined in 'end to end alignment and runcidental factor, undue stretching and distortion.

of the fabric.

The broad objects of my invention can be attained equally *wellby a toe fabric which .is knitted without gores and therefore with but the two rows of sutures which define the central section. Such fabric can be knitted in any preferred manner as by use of the'single narrowing fingers with which knitting machines are or may be equipped. Figure of the drawings is an example of such a fabric wherein the two rows of narrowing marks which define the central section Dlil inclined to meet at ZN centrally of the front edge of the toe fabric to leave selvedge section EIO whose width has been increased so that the front edge of the toe fabric (measured from X"! to XIO) is comprised entirely of the front edges of these two widened selvedge sections. It is the omission of the gores and the correspondingly increased width of the selvedge sections which differentiates the fabric of Figure 10 from that of Figure 1.

Increasing the width of the central section so that the front edge of the fabric is comprised entirely of the front edge of the central section is another example. Between the extreme of these two examples is a range of variations wherein the central and selvedge sections will both have been increased and wherein the front edge of the fabric section will be comprised of the front edges of all three sections, however, in proportions that are dependent upon the spacing of the rows of sutures.

These embodiments wherein the toe fabric is knitted without gores are examples of applications of my invention wherein the toe fabric sections. a manner of closing, and stocking toes have the same characteristics as those set forth hereinabove of the other embodiments, except as to those which depend upon and result from the presence of gores.

In the exempliflcations of Figures 1 and 10, the central section is shown as tapering at a uniform rate throughout its length and as termi- 75 hating in an and illustrated as relatively sharp. In actual practice, it will be found desirable to round or broaden this end to conform-it to the general contours of the human foot. This can be effected without departing from the principles of my invention, as for example bychanging the rate of narrowing.

In the disclosure of the embodiment of Figure 1, reference is made to the extra section F knitted 10 to prevent back ravelling and which isfllustrated also in the other embodiments- To avoid needless repetition, the disclosure thereof made as to Figure 1 is availed of for these other embodiments. i

The reference made herein to sections of the toe fabric tapering to a point" is not to be construed laterally in a mathematical sense. From the standpoint of my invention, a width, even though measurable, can be considered'apoint where it is so small that it does not affect my invention as herein disclosed.

Wherever reference is made herein to a row of sutures, it is understood that the reference is to a row of narrowing marks incident to full fash 5 ioning.

It will be understood that illustrated embodiments are merely exemplary and that my invention is susceptible of practical application in other ways than those herein disclosed.

Having thus described my invention and illustrated its use, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. A full fashioned flat knitted toe forming fabric section which narrows in the direction of 5 its front edge and comprising a central section,

two selvedge sections and a gore between the central section and each of the selvedge sections, and inclined rows of sutures which delimit these sections and define the gores, said rows of sutures 40 being parallel throughout their length and being continued to this front edge, and the front edge of the fabric section being comprised entirely of the front edges of the gores.

2. The process of forming a full fashioned toe,

4 said process comprising knitting a fiat selvedged fabric full fashioned and narrowing in the direction of its front edge with inclined rows of sutures incident to the fashioning, said rows extending to and meeting at the central point of the front edge; doubling over the fabric lengthwise through the aforementioned central point and then closing the tip of the toe by joining the doubled over halves of the front edge with the rows of sutures in extended end to end alignment whereby when the toe is expanded as on the foot of a wearer, the said rows of sutures will run continuously around the toe tip.

3. The process of forming a full fashioned toe. said process comprising knitting the fabric fiat and full fashioned and with selvedges with the fabric narrowing in the direction of its front edge and with the rows of sutures incident to the fashioning extending to the front edge, and terminating therein at spaced apart points.

doubling over. the fabric centrally of its length through the central point of the front edge and then closing the tip of the toe by joining the doubled over halves of the front edge with the rows of sutures in extended end to end alignment when the'toe is expanded as on the foot of the wearer, the rows of sutures will extend continuously around the tip thereof. I Y,

4. The process of forming a full fashioned toe which comprises the stepor steps of knitting a selvedged fabric full fashioned andnarrowing in the direction of its front edge, the knitting being such as to cause the fabric to comprise a central section two selvedge sections and two gores with the gores positioned respectively between the central section and one or the other of the selvedge sections, and the rows of sutures which delimit these gores being continued to the front edge of the fabric section and of then said process comprising knitting a flat selvedged fabric which narrows in the direction of its front fabric'lengthwise through the central point of doubling over the fabric section lengthwise 5. The process of forming a full fashioned toe which comprises the step or steps of knitting a selvedge fabric full fashioned and narrowing in the direction of its front edge, the knitting being such as to cause the fabric to comprise a central section two selvedge sections and two gores positioned respectively between the central section and one or the other of the selvedge sections, the rows of sutures which delimit the gores being continued to the front edges of the fabric section and being so spaced from each other that the front edge of the fabric section is comprised entirely of the front edges of said gores and then doubling over the fabric section lengthwise through the central point of'said front edge and then closing the tip of the toe by joining the doubled over halves of the front edge whereby the two gores and the corresponding rows of sutures are brought into end to end extended relation so as to cause them to run continuously around the tip of the toe.

6. The process of forming a full fashioned toe which comprises the step or steps of knitting a selvedged fabric full fashioned and narrowing in the direction of its front edge, the knitting being such as to cause the fabric to comprise a central section,,two selvedge sections and two gores positioned respectively between the central section and one or the other of the selvedge sections, and the rows of sutures which delimit the gores being continued to the front edge of the fabric section and being .so spaced from each other that the front edge of the fabric section is comprised of the front edges of all five sections and then doubling over the fabric section lengthwise through the central point of said front edge and.

then closing the tip of the toe by joining the doubled over halves of the front edge whereby the two gores and the corresponding rows of sutures are brought into end to end extended relation so as to cause them to run continuously around the tip of the toe.

7. The process of forming a full toe.

saidfront edge and then closing the tip of the toe by joining the doubled over halves of the front edge whereby the rows of sutures will be in extended end to end alignment and will run continuously around the tip of the toe when expanded as on the foot of a wearer.

8. A full fashioned stocking toe formed from a flat knitted fabric, the toe being closed at its tip and bottom entirely by a single continuous seam.

9. A full fashioned stocking toe formed from a flat knitted fabric section, said toe being closed at its tip end by a seam running from the central point of the front edge of the fabric section and connecting the doubled over halves of that edge and running relatively vertically centrally of the tip of the 'toe when the stocking is expanded on the foot of the wearer, the rows of sutures incident to fashioning being connected in end to end extended relation so as to run continuously'around the tip of the toe.

10. A full fashioned stocking toe formed from a flat knitted fabric, said toe when expanded on the foot of a wearer having a top and a bottom and a wall which extends about its tip and connects the top and bottom, said wall comprising two gores each of uniform width throughout its length with the gores joined in extended end to end relation by a seam which runs vertically centrally of the tip.

11. A full-fashioned stocking toe formed from a flat knitted fabric, said toe when expanded on the foot of a. wearer having atop and a bottom and a wall which extends about its tip and connects the top and the bottom, said wall comprising two gores each of uniform width throughout its length with the gores joined in extended end to end relation by a seam which runs vertically centrally of the tip, the width of the gores being approximately equal to the length of said seam.

12. A full fashioned stocking toe formed from a flat knitted fabric, said toe when expanded on the foot of a wearer having a top and a bottom and a wall which extends about its tip and connects the top and the bottom, said wall comprising two gores each of uniform width throughout its length with the gores joined in extended end to end relation by a seam which runs vertically centrally of the tip, the width of said gores being less than the length of said seam.

CHARLES A. KAUFMAN.