US2073543A - Shoe construction - Google Patents

Description

March 9, 1937.- c. e. WERNMARK 2,073,543

SHOE CONSTRUCTION Filed llay 12, 1934 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 11v VENTOR 012A VVEF/VMAEIK B Y A TTORNE y March 1937- c. e. WERNMARK 2,073,543

SHOE CONSTRUCTION Filed Kay 12, 1934 2 Shoots-Sheet 2 IN VENTOR A? 2/ 6/124 '6 l Vie/v/me/ A TTORNEY Patented Mar. 9, 1937 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 2,073,543 SHOE CONSTRUCTION Calif.

Application May 12, 1934, Serial No. 725,373

11 Claims.

This invention relates to shoe construction and particularly pertains to the construction of sport shoes and sandals.

In the manufacture of shoes, and particularly sport shoes and sandals, it is desirable to construct the shoes of a few relatively simple parts and to assemble them in a manner to be workmanlike in appearance, comfortable to the wearer, and durable, and it is the principal object of the present invention to provide a shoe con struction for shoes of ordinary type, such as oxfords and for sandals, which structure makes it possible to form the shoe without making it over a last and to assemble the shoe in a cheap and convenient manner without sacrificing the appearance or durability of the product.

The present invention contemplates the provision of a shoe sole of peculiar construction and upon which shoe uppers or sandal parts may be stitched by a new and novel type of stitching which does not require that the shoe upper be formed over a last and which insures that the upper will be held in proper position to be shaped by the foot of the wearer as the shoe is worn,

the heel portion of the upper being constructed to readily conform to the heel without the use of a counter and the heel embodying novel cushion means.

The invention is illustrated by way of example in the accompanying drawings in which:

Figure 1 is a view in side elevation showing one form of the present invention embodied in an oxford type of sport shoe.

Fig. 2 is an enlarged fragmentary view in plan showing the toe portion of a shoe with parts broken away to disclose the manner in which the upper is stitched to the sole.

Fig. 3 is an enlarged view in transverse section seen on the line 3-3 of Fig. 2 and as showing the channeled portion of the sole and the manner in which the upper is secured thereto.

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary view in plan showin the manner in which the edge of the upper leather is formed.

Fig. 5 is a view in plan showing the sole blank used in connection with the type ofshoe shown in Fig. 1.

Fig. 6 is a view in plan showing a sandal embodying the present construction and the novel features of applicants invention.

Fig. 7 is a view in transverse section through the toe portion of the sandal as seen on the line 1-1 of Fig. 6.

Fig. 8 is a view in vertical section throu h the heel portion of the sandal as seen on the line 8-8 of Fig. 6.

Referring more particularly to Fig. 5 of the drawings, l0 indicates a sole blank which may be of any size and last desired. This sole blank is 5 flat throughout and constitutes a full. sole. Formed on the upper face of the blank is a marginal rib H, separated from the sole surface by the usual channel II. The outer edge of the sole blank as occurring between the outer edge of the 0 rib II and the edge of the sole is relieved and lies below the plane of the upper surface of the sole and has an upper face l2 which preferably inclines outwardly and downwardly for a purpose to be hereinafter described. Formed through the rib at equal spaced intervals is a series of punched openings l3. These openings are made by an awl and are preferably produced by a multiple awl machine so that the punched openings l3 will be accurately .and mechanically 20 formed and spaced. In order that a stitching needle may be conveniently threaded through the openings l3 these openings incline'downwardly and outwardly through the rib II and are disposed at an angle substantially agreeing with 25 that of the upper face l2 of the outer edge of the sole and parallel to the plane thereof. The upper portions l4, whether they be of a design to form a sandal or an oxford, are formed along their outer marginal edges with scallops l5 and perforations l6. The perforations are disposed in equally spaced relation to each other and in equal distance from the edge of the leather. The scallops or indentations are formed in the marginal edge of the leather in equally spaced relation to each other and at points midway of the distance between the perforations I6. The line of spacing of the perforations IS with relation to the edge of the upper leather I4 is such as to permit a stitching thread I! to pass through the perforations Hi from the perforations l3 in the rib when the outer marginal edge of the leather I4 is in register with the outer edge of the rib II. The longitudinal spacing of the per- 45 forations IS with relation to each other is in exact agreement with the spacing of the passageways l3 through the rib ll so that the passageways i3 and the perforations will register and make it possible to produce a uniform and sym- 5 metrical stitching along the edge of the upper. The stitching is a crisscross stitching as particularly shown in Fig. 2 of the drawings. Here it will be seen. that two stitching threads are used,

Ha and I"). These threads pass in opposite di- 55 rection through the same passageways I 3 in the rib II of the sole and through the same perforations l6 of the upper. This in effect stitches the marginal edge of the upper down flat upon the upper flat face of the rib H and maintains the upper in a desired shape. The threads of the stitching cross each other between each pair of perforations l6 and the passageways l3. It will be evident that at the point of crossing there are two thicknesses of thread and that as the shoe is used this projecting portion of the thread might be scuffed and rapidly cut through, In order to avoid this the scallops I 5 have been formed in the marginal edge of the pieces of upper leather l4 and accommodate the two threads at their point of crossing. This permits the crisscross stitching to be drawn down fiat across the leather to produce a smooth seam.

As previously stated the upper may be of any particular design, although two forms have been shown in the present invention, a conventional type of oxford in Fig. 1, and a sandal in Fig. 6.

The heel portion of the various types of shoes is preferably of the general construction indicated in Fig. 8. In this figure it will be seen that a heel I8 is suitably secured to the bottom of the sole lfland that an indentation I9 is formed in it. This indentation is preferably circular as indicated by a dotted line in Fig. 6. A similar indentation 2D is formed in the meeting face of the sole. The opposing indentations thus provide a space to receive a rubber cushion 2|. This rubber cushion is preferably made of rubber having considerable resiliency and since it occurs directly beneath the ball of the heel will cushion the foot during walking, irrespective of whether or not the heel I8 is made of leather, rubber, or some suitable composition. The heel portion of the upper, as indicated at 22 in Figs. 1 and 8, is constructed without the use of any counter to stiffen it and to give it shape. This is accomplished by forming vertical slashes in the leather as indicated at 23 and which slashes make it possible for the leather of the heel portion to spread out and properly fit around the contour of the heel. In the sandal shown in Fig. 6, the foot embracing portions are cross member 24, an instep portion 25, and a heel portion 22. The edges of these members which are to be stitched to the sole are perforated and scalloped, as shown in Fig. 4 of the drawings, to be secured to ribs H formed along the sole at appropriate locations. The forward end or toe of the sole is upturned as indicated at 21 in Fig. '7 of the drawings. This provides a protection for the ends of the toes of the foot without requiring any cap for the toe portion of the shoe. In this construction the instep portion of the upper extends forwardly and overlaps the upper end of the upturned portion 21 of the sole and is stitched as indicated at 28.

In the manufacture of shoes of the type with which the present invention is concerned the upper leather is properly cut from patterns and is perforated and scalloped along its edges as indicated at l5 and IS in Fig. 4 of the drawings. The upper may then be stitched to the sole by causing one thread lla to be threaded through the passageways l3 and the perforations l 6. The thread I 1b is threaded through these passageways and perforations in an opposite direction to produce the crisscross stitching particularly shown in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings. This stitching will draw the marginal portion of the upper leather down tightly upon the horizontal face of the ribs II and will hold the same in this p sition. It will also be evident that the stitching threads will not pass through the bottom of the sole of the shoe and will not therefore be subjected to the wear incident to treading on the pavement or the like. Attention is also directed to the fact that the seam between the shoe upper and the sole does not occur beneath the foot of the wearer, thus making it unnecessary to provide insoles for the shoes. In the drawings the rib to which the upper is stitched is shown as being in uniformly spaced relationship to the marginal edge of the sole. It will be understood, of course, that the stitching rib may be in any desired spaced relationship to the marginal edge of the sole as style and the judgment of the designer of shoes embodying the present invention might dictate.

It will thus be seen that the shoe structure here disclosed is decidedly simple, provides a shoe which is inexpensive as to labor cost and material, and in addition a shoe is made which affords considerable comfort to the wearer.

While I have shown the preferred form of my invention, as now known to me, it will be understood that various changes may be made in the combination, construction, and arrangement of parts by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit of the invention as claimed.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:-

1. A shoe construction comprising a sole formed with a rib on the upper face thereof and spaced a uniform distance from the marginal edge thereof and therealong, a shoe upper having a marginal portion lying fiat upon the portion of the upper face of the rib, and stitching passing laterally through the rib and then up through and over the marginal edge of the upper to hold the same.

-2. A shoe construction comprising a sole, a channel formed in the upper face of the marginal edge of said sole, a shoe upper, a portion of the leather of the upper adjacent the margin thereof lying flat upon the upper face of the sole outwardly of said channel, and stitching passing into the channel without passingthrough the bottom of the sole and passing through openings in the leather of the upper and being led over and around the marginal edge of the upper to fasten the same down upon the upper face of the sole.

3. A shoe construction comprising a shoe sole having a marginal rib formed on the upper face of said sole, a shoe upper therefor, said upper being formed of flexible leather the outer edge of which is provided with a marginal portion lying flat upon the upper face of the marginal rib of the sole, said marginal portion being defined by a row of perforations spaced from the edge of the upper and stitching passing laterally through the marginal rib and upwardly through the perforations in the upper, and then across the marginal portion of the upper and downwardly through the edge of the upper, through the marginal rib of the sole, and through the next succeeding perforation in the upper, said stitching being formed by one continuous thread passing in a single direction around the marginal rib of the sole.

4. A shoe construction comprising a shoe sole having a marginal rib formed on the upper face of said sole, 3, shoe upper therefor, said upper being formed of flexible leather the outer edge of which is provided with a marginal portion lying flat upon the upper face of the marginal rib of a row of perforations spaced from the edge ofthe upper and stitching passing laterally through the marginal rib and upwardly through the perforations in the upper, and then across the marginal portion of the upper and downwardly through the edge of the upper, through the marginal rib of the sole, and through; the next succeeding perforation in the upper, said stitching being formed by one continuous thread passing in a single direction around the marginal rib of the sole, and a second stitching passing in the opposite direction through the marginal rib of the sole and the perforations in the upper, the 1 thread of said second stitching crossing the thread of the first stitching as it is led over the marginal portion of the upper whereby a"crisscross stitching will be formed/ 5. A shoe construction comprising a shoe sole having a marginal rib formed on the upper face of said sole, a shoe upper therefor, said upper being formed of flexible leather the outer edge of which is provided with a marginal portion lying flat upon the upper face of the marginal rib of the sole, said marginal portion being defined by a row of perforations spaced from the edge of the upper and stitching passing laterally through the marginal rib and upwardly through the perforations in the upper, and then across the marginal portion of the upper and downwardly through the edge of the upper, through the marginal rib of the sole, and through the next succeeding perforation in the upper, said stitching being formed by one continuous thread passing in a single direction aroundtlna marginal rib of the sole, and a second stitching passing in opposite direction through the marginal rib of the sole and the perforations in the upper, the thread ofsaid second stitching crossing the thread of portion of the upper whereby a crisscross stitching will be formed, and scallops formed in the edge of the'marginal portion of the upper at points equidistant between the perforations and in which the two threads of the stitching lie at their points of intersection.

6. A shoe construction comprising a sole, a rib formed along the upper face thereof, thread openings formed laterally through said rib at spaced intervals therealong, a shoe upper, the outer edge portion of which is provided with a margin lying fiat across the upper face of said rib, the width of said edge portion being defined by a row of per forations agreeing with and registering with said thread openings, and a stitching thread successively passed through a thread opening in the rib and a perforation in the upper and then drawn across the marginal portion of the upper and passed through the next succeeding thread opening of the rib whereby the upper is stitched to'the upper face of the rib.

'1. A shoe construction comprising a sole, a rib formed along the upper face thereof, thread openthe first stitching as it is led over the marginal ings formedlaterally through said rib at equal spaced intervals therealong, a shoeupper, the outer edge portion of which is provided with a margin lying flat across the upper face of said rib, the perimeter of said margin agreeing in contour with the outer edge of the rib, the width of said margin being defined by a row of perforations agreeing with and registering with said thread openings, and a stitching thread successively passed through a thread opening in the rib and a perforation in the upper and then drawn across the marginal portion of the upper and passed through the next succeeding thread opening of the rib whereby the upper is stitched to the upper face of the rib, and a second thread led oppositely through the thread opening of the rib and the perforations in the upper whereby the two threads cross each other upon the margin of the upper to hold said portion of the upper in a permanent and tightly disposed position against the upper face' of the rib.

8. In a shoe construction, a sole, a marginal rib lying fiat thereon, and an upper and stitching I therefor comprising two threads successively led upper in which the crossing threads hold saidarea of upper fiat .upon the face of the sole, said upper being cut away at suitable intervals at which points the two threads cross whereby, the crossing portions of the thread occur in the cutaway portion of the upper.

10. A shoe construction comprising a sole formed with a rib on its upper face, said rib substantially conforming to the contour of the foot of the wearer, a shoe upper havinga marginal portion lying against an upwardly presented face of said rib, and stitching successively passing laterally through the rib, through the shoe upper and across the marginal portion thereof lying against the rib.

11. A shoe construction comprising a sole formed witha ribon its upper face, said rib substantially conforming to the contour of the foot of the wearer, a shoe upper having a marginal portion lying against an upwardly presented face of said rib, and'stitching successively passing laterally through the rib, through the shoe upper and across the marginal portion thereof lying against the rib, said rib and upper being prepared with openings through which the stitching passes and which openings bear a definite relation to each other to control the arrangement of the stitching.

cam. G.

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