RU2753515C1 - Face cream - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.SUBSTANCE: invention relates to the care of the skin of the face, neck and eye area. The face cream includes at the following ratio, wt.%: SpecKareTMEyeS 100 active complex containing coconut poria extract, dipeptide, acetyltetrapeptide - 5, cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate - 5, cyclopentasiloxane - 2, perfume composition - 0.3, phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin - 0.9, jojoba oil - 2, hydroxyethyl urea - 2, sodium polyacrylate - 0.5, butylhydroxytoluene - 0.03, purified drinking water - the rest.EFFECT: invention provides the elimination of problems of blueness and puffiness under the eyes, prevention of the aging process of the skin and the formation of wrinkles, skin hydration, antioxidant protection of the skin, anti-pigmentation.1 cl, 3 ex

Description

The invention relates to the cosmetic industry, in particular to cosmetic compositions for the care of the skin of the face, neck and around the eyes.

Known cosmetic composition for the care of the skin of the face and neck, containing as an oil phase vegetable oil, including avocado oil, as structure-forming elements cetearyl alcohol, glycerin, emollient, as biologically active additives milk component and honey extract, preservatives, perfume and water characterized in that it additionally contains olive oil, shea butter, and / or wheat germ oil, and / or macadamia oil, and / or grape seed oil, and / or jojoba oil as a vegetable oil, additionally contains Beutiderm as structural elements K10 or polyglyceryl-6-distearate, glycerin monostearate, caprylic (capric) triglyceride, guar gum, contains Coco-Caprylate as an emollient, additionally contains Glucohyal LW, Hexapeptide-11, or Seborami, or Malt secrets, or Malt secrets as an emollient. contains mare's milk powder and concentrate, respectively, as a milk component and honey extract Rirovanny extract of honey in glycerin, and as preservatives potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate and benzyl alcohol (patent No. 2591789, A61K 8/27, publ. 07/20/2016, BI No. 20).

The disadvantage of this composition is the absence of the status of "lamellar emulsion" in it, as well as the special organoleptic properties characteristic of the thickener guar gum; possible instability of microbiological purity associated with the preservative used in the composition, aggravated by the use of dry mare's milk as an active ingredient; possible manifestation of allergic reactions from the skin due to the use of a highly concentrated honey extract; the absence of silicone oil in the cream for ease of spreading the cream and the speed of its absorption; the absence of an antioxidant in the cream, which during the storage period may be the reason for the rancidity of the oils included in the cream.

There is a known rejuvenating cream for the eyelids with peptides, including poria coconut extract, dipeptide-2, acetyl tetrapeptide-5, licorice root extract, baobab seed oil, wild yam extract (dioscorea), soybean oil, pericarp extract, betaine, amino acids, ceramics a mixture of phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol and potassium sorbate is used as a preservative in the cream; cyclopentasiloxane is used as a silicone (https://www.proficosmetics.ru/catalog/230911/).

The main disadvantage of the cream is that the percentage of peptide complex input is insufficient to manifest the maximum possible effect on the transformation of the skin around the eyes, face and neck. According to the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) rules, ingredients in a cosmetic product are arranged in decreasing order of input percentage. However, the ingredients, the percentage of which has reached one or less, can be located in the ingredient row in any order. The cream uses a preservative of the Euxyl K700 brand, which is a mixture of phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol and potassium sorbate. The manufacturer of the preservative, the Schulke company, recommends using it in the range of input percentages from 0.5% to 1.5% to achieve the highest quality result in terms of the microbiological stability of the finished product with it. The peptide complex in the cream is located behind the preservative. The latter indicates that the percentage of commissioning of the complex is in the range of 1% or less.

The disadvantages of the cream include the absence of the status of "lamellar emulsion" and the fact that there is no antioxidant in the composition for the purpose of non-rancidity over time of the natural oils that make up the cream.

The closest in technical essence is a cream with peptides for the face transforming for all types of skin, including jojoba oil, poria coconut extract with dipeptide and acetyl tetrapeptide, emulsifier cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate, hydroxyethyl urea moisturizer, sodium polyacrylate thickener and water preservative methylisolone purified drinking (http: //tyumen.in diapers.rf/vse-dlja-mamy/kosmetika/uxod-za-licom/preobrazhajuschij-krem-s-peptidami-sharovapro.html).

The disadvantage of the cream is the absence of an antioxidant agent in the composition of the cream, which during the storage period can cause rancidity of the natural oil included in the cream; The preservative used methylisothiazolinone is known for its skin irritating properties. There is no silicone oil in the ingredient line for easy distribution of the cream on the skin without the effects of whiteness and stickiness.

The objective of the present invention is to eliminate the problems of blue and puffiness under the eyes, prevent the aging process of the skin and the formation of wrinkles, moisturize the skin, antioxidant protection of the skin, counteract pigmentation.

The problem is solved by the fact that the face cream includes jojoba oil as an oil phase, an active complex of plant origin, coconut poria extract with a dipeptide and acetyl tetrapeptide, an emulsifier cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate, a moisturizer, hydroxyethyl urea, a sodium thickener, a polyacrylate, a preservative, and a perfume. purified, according to the invention, additionally contains the antioxidant butylhydroxytoluene, silicone oil cyclopentasiloxane, and as a preservative it contains a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerol in the following ratio, wt%:

Poria coconut extract with dipeptide and acetyl tetrapeptide 5 Cetearyl Olivate and sorbitan olivate 5 Cyclopentasiloxane 2 Perfume composition 0.3 Phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerol 0.9 Jojoba oil 2 Hydroxyethylurea 2 Sodium polyacrylate 0.5 Butylhydroxytoluene 0.03 Purified drinking water Rest

It is advisable as an extract of coconut poria with a dipeptide and acetyl tetrapeptide, an active SpecKareTMEyeS 100 complex containing an extract of coconut poria, a dipeptide, and acetyltetrapeptide.

An active herbal complex containing poria coconut extract, dipeptide, acetyl tetrapeptide (SpecKareTMEyeS 100, manufactured by Spec-Chem Industry Inc), helps to reduce bags under the eyes, relieve swelling, get rid of dark circles, reduce wrinkles. In addition, the active complex has anti-inflammatory properties, helps to resist the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation, fights unwanted pigmentation and moisturizes the skin.

The emulsifier, a mixture of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate (Olivem 1000), gives the emulsion a lamellar status. Lamellar emulsion is related to the lipid composition of the skin. It increases skin hydration, reduces dryness and irritation response to environmental factors. Such an emulsion further enhances the activity of the peptide complex in terms of its penetration and additionally protects the skin from the negative effects of the sun.

Cyclopentasiloxane silicone oil, being a volatile oil, helps the emulsion to quickly and efficiently spread over the skin. Does not leave grease, stickiness and streaks on it.

The perfume composition gives the cream a pleasant aroma.

The preservative, a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin, reliably protects the cream throughout the shelf life and guarantees its microbiological purity. The preservative is active against a wide range of pathogens. Does not irritate the skin.

Jojoba oil, a natural fatty oil, gives the cream the properties of nourishing, moisturizing and high-quality lipid protection of the skin and / or its restoration (in case of violation of the integrity of the latter).

Hydroxyethylurea moisturizer (HydroChem 50) promotes high-quality skin regeneration and hydration.

The sodium polyacrylate thickener gives the cream the necessary viscosity and keeps it stable (without being destroyed by the peptide complex) throughout the cream's shelf life.

The antioxidant butylhydroxytoluene protects the jojoba oil, which is part of the composition, from rancidity and prevents both a change in the organoleptic properties of the cream and a decrease in the sound of the perfume composition over time.

The combination of the above ingredients provides a lamellar emulsion with an extremely high input of the active ingredient at the output of the following target properties: efficiency, organoleptic convenience, a wide range of problems to be solved, the absence of any contraindications (except for individual intolerance to the components).

The cream is prepared using the following technology

The water in tank A is heated to a temperature of 70-80 ° C. The emulsifier cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate, the antioxidant butylhydroxytoluene and jojoba oil are heated in melter B to a temperature of 70-80 ° C and the complete transition of the emulsifier cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate from solid to liquid state. Liquids from tank A and melter B are simultaneously transferred to reactor C through homogenizer D. The mode of cooling the emulsion in reactor C to a temperature of 35-40 ° C is switched on. The cooling process is accompanied by the operation of a frame agitator. In container E, a dispersion of sodium polyacrylate thickener is prepared by mixing it with water in a ratio of 1:10, respectively.

After reaching the temperature in the reactor C 35-40 ° C, the dispersion of the thickener sodium polyacrylate is fed into the reactor on an operating frame mixer. The thickened emulsion passes through the homogenizer C.

After homogenization, the emulsion through the upper hatch of the reactor (with a time range of 15 minutes) is fed in turn with a humectant hydroxyethyl urea, an active complex of plant origin, coconut poria extract with a dipeptide and acetyl tetrapeptide, cyclopentasiloxane silicone oil, phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl as a preservative, and parfilphexyl. Stirring of the finished product takes place within 30 minutes on a frame mixer after adding the last ingredient.

Vacuum is turned on, evacuation takes place within 60 minutes.

The evacuated cream is transferred for packaging.

Technical indicators of the cream.

Mass fraction of water and volatile substances (according to GOST 29188.4): 85%

Hydrogen index (according to GOST 29188.2): 6.0

Colloidal stability (according to GOST 29188.3): stable

Thermal stability (according to GOST 29188.3): stable

The composition of the cream for several examples.

Example 1

Poria coconut extract
with dipeptide and acetyl tetrapeptide 5.00 Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate 5.00 Cyclopentasiloxane 2.00 Perfume composition 0.30 Phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin 0.90 Jojoba oil 2.00 Hydroxyethylurea 2.00 Sodium polyacrylate 0.50 Butylhydroxytoluene 0.03 Purified drinking water Up to 100

This cream can be recommended as a product for the area around the eyes, neck and décolleté for consumers with pronounced problems in these areas, accompanied by severe swelling, blue and visible skin aging processes.

Example 2

Poria coconut extract
with dipeptide and acetyl tetrapeptide 2.00 Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate 5.00 Cyclopentasiloxane 1.00 Perfume composition 0.30 Phenoxyethanol plus ethylhexylglycerin 0.90 Jojoba oil 1.00 Hydroxyethylurea 1.00 Sodium polyacrylate 0.50 Butylhydroxytoluene 0.03 Purified drinking water Up to 100

This cream can be recommended as a product for the area around the eyes, neck and décolleté for consumers with less pronounced problems of these areas, accompanied by less severe swelling, blue and aging processes of the skin.

Example 3

Poria coconut extract
with dipeptide and acetyl tetrapeptide 5.00 Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate 5.00 Cyclopentasiloxane 2.00 Perfume composition 0.30 Phenoxyethanol plus Tylhexylglycerin 0.90 Jojoba oil 3.00 Hydroxyethylurea 3.00 Sodium polyacrylate 0.50 Butylhydroxytoluene 0.03 Purified drinking water Up to 100

This cream can be recommended as a product for the area around the eyes, neck and décolleté for consumers with pronounced problems in these areas, accompanied by severe swelling, blue and visible skin aging processes. The cream will be especially active when the problems described above are aggravated by conditions of dryness or dehydration of the skin.

Toxicological studies have shown that the cream is safe and does not have a general toxic effect.

Clinical trials have shown that the cream is safe and does not cause irritation or sensitization.

The proposed cream allows you to prevent glycation of collagen and elastin fibers, stimulate their production, prevent tissue retention of water, improve microcirculation, lymph outflow. Also, prevent the negative effects of the sun as a catalyst for aging and a provocateur of pigmentation, maintain the level of skin moisture.

Claims (3)

Face cream containing jojoba oil as an oil phase, an active complex of plant origin, coconut poria extract with a dipeptide and acetyl tetrapeptide, an emulsifier cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate, a hydroxyethyl urea moisturizer, a sodium polyacrylate thickener, a preservative, a dark perfume composition and a purified water which additionally contains the antioxidant butylhydroxytoluene, silicone oil cyclopentasiloxane, and as a preservative contains a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerol in the following ratio, wt%: Poria coconut extract with dipeptide and acetyl tetrapeptide 5 Cetearyl Olivate and sorbitan olivate 5 Cyclopentasiloxane 2 Perfume composition 0.3 Phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerol 0.9 Jojoba oil 2 Hydroxyethylurea 2 Sodium polyacrylic 0.5 Butylhydroxytoluene 0.03 Purified drinking water Rest, At the same time, the active complex SpecKareTMEyeS 100 is used as an extract of coconut poria with a dipeptide and acetyl tetrapeptide, containing an extract of coconut poria, a dipeptide, and acetyl tetrapeptide.