RU2639985C1 - Method of manufacturing felony with embroidered shoulder for priests of russian orthodox church - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: human vital needs satisfaction.

SUBSTANCE: method is designed for making ceremonial clothes with an embroidered shoulder for priests of the Russian Orthodox Church, in particular for making felony. The essence of the method consists in the manufacture of embroidered shoulder with a rigid gasket removable, detachable from the mill (the main item of the felony without a shoulder) of the felony by unzipping detachable zippers placed at the junction of the shoulder parts and the mill.

EFFECT: manufacturing a felony with a removable embroidered shoulder will ensure ease of operation and save the form of products with repeated washing or dry-cleaning during the long-term operation of the vestments.

13 dwg

Description

The invention relates to the clothing industry, in particular to the manufacture of clothing for clergy, and more particularly to the manufacture of felony.

) - верхнее богослужебное облачение православного священника (Приложение 1).Felon - (from Greek

) - the upper liturgical vestments of an Orthodox priest (Appendix 1).

The cut of liturgical vestments is canonized by the Orthodox Church. The felogon is a long, wide, sleeveless shoulder product with a deep neckline at the front. According to the requirements of the canon, the mantle of the felon, unlike other types of the upper liturgical vestments - cows and sakkos - has a rigid shape and rises behind the shoulders in the form of a trapezoid. Feloni mantles are often decorated with embroidery. The peculiarity of liturgical vestments is the use of special finishing braid called galloon. On felony, galloons are located on the outer edges of the mantle and on the lower edges of the product (Appendix 1).

Currently, felony makes the embroidered mantle non-removable, which greatly complicates regular care of the product, resulting in reduced product life.

The closest analogue of the proposed solution is a method of manufacturing a removable rigid strip of the mantle of a felon (Zolotseva L.V., Stepanchenko L.V., Kholodnova E.V. A method of manufacturing a felon for clergy of the Russian Orthodox Church. Patent No. 2466664). The method consists in the following: a rigid laying of the mantle is made removable, consisting of two parts of the lining material and a rigid frame made of a package of cushioning materials, while the details of the lining material form a “pocket” as a result of fastening (line 1, Appendix 2), into which the rigid frame and secure it with the stitches of a single-strand chain stitch (line 2, Appendix 2), the removable rigid mantle pad is attached to the trimmer (line 3, Appendix 2), previously connected to areas of the neck of the felony due to the line of tuning the finishing tape (line 4, Appendix 2). In the region of the lower edge, a rigid gasket is connected to the felon’s arm with the help of a Velcro tape (5, Appendix 2). The disadvantage of this method is the difficulty of regular cleaning of the felon in the case of decorating the mantle with manual embroidery, since with the described method the mantle is made whole-cut with the camp (the main part of the felon without the mantle) felon, and only a rigid pad is removable. Gold (gilded) threads and pearls, traditionally used in the manual embroidery of vestments, cannot be washed or dry cleaned, as this worsens their properties and can lead to irreversible consequences. To ensure regular care of the product in this case, it is necessary that the mantle, including a rigid gasket, is completely temporarily disconnected from the feloni mill. Replacing machine manual embroidery is not a solution to the problem, because synthetic threads used for machine embroidery are of comparatively lower quality and less durable than the gold-plated threads traditionally used for hand embroidery.

The technical task is to create a processing technology for the embroidered mantle of felony, providing high performance properties, which are determined by such characteristics as the persistence of the appearance of the product during operation.

To solve the problem in a method of manufacturing a felony with an embroidered mantle for clergy, including preparing the details of the cut of the felon, mantle and camp, lining and hard laying of the mantle, adjusting the finishing elements (galloons), fastening the main material of the mantle and a rigid strip around the neck, according to the invention the embroidered mantle is made removable, consisting of a part of the main material, fastened with the help of edge trim with a rigid gasket, consisting of two parts of the lining material, while the details of the lining material during bonding form a "pocket" in which a rigid frame made of a package of cushioning materials is placed and fixed with a single-strand chain stitch, the removable mantle is connected to the feloni end-to-end with two detachable zippers, the rigid mantle lining is fixed along the bottom edge with buttons located on the lining of the feloni mill.

The proposed method of manufacturing felony ensures that the performance requirements of the product are met, maintaining its appearance due to the possibility of regular washing or dry cleaning of the product, without exposing the mantle decorated with gold embroidery and a rigid frame, which significantly extends the life of the felon.

The proposed method is illustrated by the following drawings.

In FIG. 1 - detail of the cut of the mantle.

In FIG. 2 - arrangement of buttons on the lining details of the feloni mill.

In FIG. 3 - the location of the slotted loops on the details of the lining 4.

In FIG. 4-10 - the sequence of the method.

In FIG. 13 is a general view of the finished feloni.

The proposed method is implemented as follows.

The manufacture of the product begins with the preparation of the details of the cut of the feloni camp, the lining for it and the details of the removable mantle.

The inventive method of technological processing of church vestments - felony - ensures that the performance requirements, i.e. maintaining the appearance of the product during dry cleaning and washing.

The felon made by the proposed method is depicted in FIG. 13.

Implement the proposed method as follows.

For the manufacture of felon, details of the cut material of the upper mill 1, the lining material of the mill 2, the removable embroidered mantle, made as an independent part, consisting of the main material 3, two lining parts 4 and 5, forming a “pocket”, in which a rigid frame is inserted, are used. 6, galloons 7 and 8, details of trim edges 9 and 11, two parts of detachable zipper 10, four buttons 12, oblique collar 13. The allowances for the middle seam on parts 1-5 are 1.5 cm. The allowance for hem on the lower edge of the part lining 4 is 5 5 cm

The removable mantle of the felony consists of a material detail of the upper part of the mantle with galunas sewn along the neck and lower edge, two lining parts, when fastening forming a pocket, a rigid frame made of a package of cushioning materials and a trim edge connecting the main embroidered part of the mantle with a hard gasket.

The manufacture of felon with a removable embroidered mantle begins with the manufacture of the lower part of the felon — a mill consisting of parts of the main and cushioning material. In the traditional way, finishing elements and a wide galun are adjusted on the bottom material part on the base material part, as well as middle seams are made on the parts of the main material 1 and lining 2, the seams are ironed (lines "a", "b", Fig. 4). Further along the upper edge, in the area of connection with the braid, the parts of the main material 1 and the linings 2 are fastened together with the simultaneous stitching of two detachable zippers 10, with runners inside the product (line “c” of Fig. 5), so that the ends of the zippers dock in the area of the shoulder folds of the feloni camp (Fig. 4). Four buttons 12 are attached to the lining 2 in the area of the shoulder folds at a distance of 1 cm from the upper edge of the mill lining for subsequent fastening of the rigid mantle pad (Fig. 4-5). The locations of the buttons 12 on the lining of the mill 2 are shown in FIG. 2. Next, the main part of the feloni mill 1 is finished with lining 2 along the lower edge, in the traditional way with tuning galun 14 (lines "d", "f", Fig. 5).

Next, a removable mantle is made.

First, the middle seams are made on the parts of the base material 3 and two parts of the lining 4 and 5 in the traditional way, the seams are ironed. On the embroidered part of the base material 3, the neck 7 is tuned along the neck with simultaneous processing of the cut with an oblique inlay 13 (lines “e”, “h”, Fig. 6). Slices of a slanting inlay are pre-treated with an overlock. Next, on the part of the main material 3, from the wrong side, adjacent parts of detachable zippers are tuned along the lower edge with simultaneous fastening of the edge trim 11 (lines "g", "j" of Fig. 7). The zippers are adjusted at such a distance from the lower edge of the part 3 that, upon subsequent fastening of the zippers, the zippers are not visible on the front side of the product. Slices of the edge trim 11 are pre-treated with an overlock. Just as in the camp of feloni, on the mantle the ends of the zippers dock in the area of the shoulder folds. A free cut of the edge trim 11 is turned on the front side of the part 3 and fixed while tuning the galun 8 (lines "k", "n" of Fig. 8). Then 3.5 cm from the bottom allowance, the details of the lining 4 are folded up and fixed with a straight line at a distance of 2 cm from the fold (line “s”, Fig. 9). On the resulting bend, four welt loops 15 are swept out for subsequent fastening of the rigid mantle pad along the lower edge using buttons 12 located on the lining of the felon mill. The loop locations are shown in FIG. 3. Next, a “pocket” is made from the details of the lining 4 and 5 with the simultaneous stitching of the edge trim 9 along the neck (line “m”, Fig. 10). The edge trim 9 is attached to the neck of the main part 3 by a straight line (line "r", Fig. 11). The rigid frame 6 is inserted into the “pocket” and secured along the bottom edge with a single-thread chain stitch line, and a 2 cm wide edging is formed from the lining part 4 (line “t”, Fig. 12).

The developed method for connecting a removable embroidered mantle with the product allows you to easily temporarily disconnect the part of the embroidered mantle from the feloni mill by unfastening detachable zippers in case of cleaning and repair (Fig. 13). If necessary, it is possible to disconnect the embroidered part of the mantle from the rigid frame by opening the stitch of a single-thread chain stitch along the lower edge of the "pocket". The proposed method for processing the neck and lower edge of the embroidered part of the mantle of the felony allows you to leave the wrong side of the embroidery readily available for performing restoration cleaning, without additional disassembly of the product. The use of edge trim on the bottom edge eliminates the appearance of excessive thickness of the package of materials in the area of the joint of the felon mill and removable mantle, making the connection as invisible as possible from the front of the product. The proposed sequence of operations for assembling felony with a removable embroidered shoulder strap allows you to manufacture the product in an industrial way, without the use of hand stitches.

Claims (1)

A method of manufacturing a felony with an embroidered mantle for clergy, including preparing the details of the cut of the felon camp, the lining and the mantle, fastening the main and lining materials of the details of the felon camp along the upper edge with the simultaneous stitching of detachable zippers, fastening the main material of the mantle with a rigid lining around the neck and in the region the location of the finishing elements, the final finish of the product with a seam with a piping made of lining material, bracing on the front side, characterized in that the embroidered The flap is made removable, consisting of a part of the main material with detachable zippers sewn along the lower edge and fastened with a trim to a rigid gasket, consisting of two parts of the lining material, when fastening to form a "pocket" in which a rigid frame made of a cushioning bag is placed materials and fastened in a "pocket" along the bottom edge with a single-thread chain stitch stitch, a removable mantle is connected to the feloni mill by fastening detachable zippers, a rigid gasket is fixed along the lower edge with buttons pre-attached to the upper edge of the lining of the feloni mill.

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