RU2438649C9 - High intense and long-lasting scent cosmetic agent - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: medicine.

SUBSTANCE: invention refers to cosmetic skin and/or scalp and/or hair care compositions, particularly deodorant and antiperspirant compositions. The offered cosmetic composition contains, in an acceptable cosmetic carrier, at least one hydrated silica ester selected from a group of esters of certain composition, where at least one residue R is formed of at least one alcohol, which is selected from a group consisting of (Z)-2-hexen-1-ole, (E)-2-hexen-1-ole, (Z)-3-hexen-1-ole (leaf alcohol), (E)-3-hexen-1-ole, (Z)-4-hexen-1-ole, (E)-4-hexen-1-ole and 5-hexen-1-ole, while the other residues R are hydrogen atom, and also their mixtures. The cosmetic composition involves the specified hydrated silica ester in total 0.05 to 0.1 wt % per weight of the cosmetic composition.

EFFECT: use of hydrated silica esters of such composition as a part of the cosmetic agent provides higher intensity and long-lasting scent release.

6 cl, 28 tbl

Description

The proposed invention relates to cosmetic compositions for treating the skin and / or scalp and / or hair and / or for hygiene of the oral cavity and teeth, in particular deodorant or antiperspirant compositions that contain certain esters of silicic acids.

The controlled release of components in a wide variety of formulations, readily referred to as “controlled release”, has been the subject of numerous publications and patent applications. Of outstanding importance in the field of cosmetics is the release of aromatic substances, since both the product and the substrates treated with the product, such as skin and / or hair, must be fragrant intensively and continuously. Along with methods for applying fragrant substances to carrier materials and coating a fragrant carrier or encapsulating fragrant substances or incorporating into compounds (for example, perfume complexes from cyclodexirin), it is possible to chemically bind fragrant substances to the carrier medium, while the chemical bond is slowly broken down and the fragrant is released. This principle, for example, is carried out during the esterification of aromatic alcohols, and for this group of substances the level of technology is quite wide.

There are separate proposals in the prior art regarding the binding of aromatic alcohols to non-volatile siloxanes, from which they are slowly released by hydrolysis. Despite the fact that for esters of siloxane and aromatic alcohols there is also a numerous prior art, problems arise when using these compounds in cosmetics. Thus, many known compounds are not used in water-based or water-containing cosmetics, since they are already hydrolyzed in the product and the resulting delayed release no longer occurs later.

Monomeric esters of orthosilicic acids and aromatic alcohols are described, for example, in US patent 3215719 (Dan River Mills). This document also describes the delayed release of aromatic alcohols from mixed esters, such as, for example, bis (eugenoxy) diethoxysilane or bis (cinnamoyloxy) diethoxysilane, and central silicon must be forcibly bound not only to oxygen. The oligomeric siloxane ester is not described in this document.

Liquid or paste formulations of soaps that contain “pleasant smell” silicon compounds are described in GB 2041964 (Dow Corning). Also, oligomeric silicon compounds with more than one aromatic ester group are not described herein.

Odorless non-volatile siloxanes of the general formula M _a M ' _a D' _b T _c T ' _c Q _d , where M and M' = R ¹ R ² SiO _1/2 , D and D '= R ⁴ R ⁵ SiO _2/2 , T and T '= R ⁶ SiO _3/2 and Q = SiO _4/2 , and R ¹ - R ⁶ independently from each other selected from residues of alkyl having from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, or alkoxy having from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, as well as aryl having from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, or aryloxy having from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and indices a, a 'are positive and one or more indices b, b', c, c 'and d are positive, are described in GB Patent Application GB 2319527 (General Electric). Oligomeric silicon compounds with four groups of aromatic alcohol esters formally also fall within the general formula, however, this document specifically describes only compounds in which at least two carbon atoms are directly bonded to the silicon atom. The use of odor-releasing siloxanes in cosmetics is also not mentioned in this document.

There is still a challenge to provide complex siloxane esters of aromatic alcohols, which, on the one hand, are stable upon hydrolysis, which allows them to be introduced into aqueous or water-containing cosmetics without subsequent hydrolysis already in the product, and on the other hand, are not stable upon hydrolysis that will not allow the consumer to receive any pleasure during usual time of application. In this case, the resulting substances should give both the product and the processed product to the substrates (for example, skin or hair) a pleasant and long-lasting smell. The behavior in the hydrolysis of complex siloxane esters of aromatic alcohols using the chemical structure of aromatic alcohols is generally or with great difficulty to predict. Therefore, the next objective of the proposed invention is to enrich the prior art with a wide palette of complex siloxane esters based on aromatic alcohols with behavior suitable for technical use during hydrolysis.

It was found that esters of silicic acids that contain at least one alcohol residue from aromatic alcohols are selected from the group of hexene-1-ol, cinnamol, 3-phenylpropan-1-ol (hydrocinnamic alcohol),

3R (-) - linalool, 3S (+) - linalool, (-) - menthol, (+) - neomenthol, α-terpineol, β-terpineol, γ-terpineol, δ-terpineol, (-) - borneol, (+ ) -isoborneol, (-) - lavenderulol, (Z) -4-heptene-2-ol, eugenol, 2-methoxy-4 - ((Z) -1-propenyl) phenol ((Z) -isoeuvgenol), 2- methoxy-4 - ((E) -1-propenyl) phenol ((E) -isoeuvgenol), 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone (furaneole®), 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde (vanillin), 4- (4-hydroxyphenyl) -2-butanone (raspberry ketone), (Z, Z) -3,6-nonadiene-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-7-octen-1-ol ( Rodinol) and (Z) -3-octene-1-ol, which fulfill the requirements required for technical use Bani. In studies of these substances, it was unexpectedly found that they, in combination with conventional aromatic substances, give a long-lasting effect to aromatic substances that are not esterifiable with oligosilicic acid. Regardless of the chemical composition of aromatic substances, thus, the compounds according to the invention can be used in mixtures of aromatic substances in order to give the overall perfumery composition a sustained release of aroma.

According to the invention, hexene-1-ol is understood to mean (Z) -2-hexen-1-ol, (E) -2-hexen-1-ol, (Z) -3-hexen-1-ol (leaf alcohol), ( E) -3-hexen-1-ol, (Z) -4-hexen-1-ol, (E) -4-hexen-1-ol and 5-hexen-1-ol. According to the invention, preferred hexen-1-ol are selected from (Z) -3-hexen-1-ol (leaf alcohol), (E) -2-hexen-1-ol, (Z) -2-hexen-1-ol, and (E) -3-hexen-1-ol, and mixtures thereof, particularly preferred hexen-1-ol are selected from (Z) -3-hexen-1-ol (leaf alcohol) and (E) -2-hexene- 1-ol, as well as mixtures thereof.

The object of the invention are cosmetic compositions for treating the skin and / or scalp and / or hair and / or hygiene of the oral cavity and teeth, which contain in a suitable cosmetic carrier an ester of silicic acids of the formulas I, and / or II, and / or III , and / or IV

wherein, respectively, at least one R residue is formed from at least one alcohol selected from the group consisting of (Z) -2-hexene-1-ol, (E) -2-hexene-1- ol, (Z) -3-hexene-1-ol (leaf alcohol), (E) -3-hexene-1-ol, (Z) -4-hexene-1-ol, (E) -4-hexene- 1-ol, 5-hexene-1-ol, cinnamon, 3-phenylpropan-1-ol (hydrocinnamic alcohol), 3R (-) - linalool, 3S (+) - linalool, (-) - menthol, (+) neomenthol, α-terpineol, β-terpineol, γ-terpineol, δ-terpineol, (-) - borneol, (+) - isoborneol, (-) - lavenderulol, (Z) -4-heptene-2-ol, eugenol , 2-methoxy-4 - ((Z) -1-propenyl) phenol (( Z) -iso-eugenol), 2-methoxy-4 - ((E) -1-propenyl) phenol ((E) -iso-eugenol), 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone (furaneola®) , 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde (vanillin), 4- (4-hydroxyphenyl) -2-butanone (raspberry ketone), (Z, Z) -3,6-nonadiene-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl- 7-octene-1-ol (rhodinol) and (Z) -3-octene-1-ol, and other residues are independently selected from the group consisting of one hydrogen atom, straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon residues having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and the residue of 2-phenoxyethyl, and is significant e m is in the range from 1 to 20 and n ranging from 2 to 100, and mixtures thereof.

The preparation of the compounds mentioned in claim 1 is carried out by simple esterification of esters of oligosilicic acids of lower alcohols having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, iso-propanol, n-butanol, iso-butanol and tert-butanol, with a) at least one alcohol selected from the group of hexene-1-ol, cinnamon, 3-phenylpropan-1-ol (hydrocinnamic alcohol), 3R (-) - linalool, 3S (+) - linalool, (-) - menthol, (+) - neomenthol, α-terpineol, β-terpineol, γ-terpineol, δ-terpineol, (-) - borneol, (+) - isobornoleol, (-) - lavenderulol, (Z ) -4-hept n-2-ol, eugenol, 2-methoxy-4 - ((Z) -1-propenyl) phenol ((Z) -isoeuvgenol), 2-methoxy-4 - ((E) -1-propenyl) phenol (( E) -iso-eugenol), 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone (furaneola®), 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde (vanillin), 4- (4-hydroxyphenyl) -2-butanone ( raspberry ketone), (Z, Z) -3,6-nonadiene-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-7-octene-1-ol (rhodinol) and (Z) -3-octene-1-ol, b ) mixtures of at least two of the above alcohols; or c) mixtures of at least one alcohol selected from the above group with other alcohols. As “other alcohols” that may be present in the esterifiable mixture, in particular, aromatic alcohols are used, which differ from the group of hexene-1-ol, cinnamic alcohol, 3-phenylpropan-1-ol (hydrocinnamic alcohol), 3R (-) - linaloolol, 3S (+) - linaloolol, (-) - menthol, (+) - neomenthol, α-terpineol, β-terpineol, γ-terpineol, δ-terpineol, (-) - borneol, (+) - isoborneol, ( -) - lavenderulol, (Z) -4-heptene-2-ol, eugenol, 2-methoxy-4 - ((Z) -1-propenyl) phenol ((Z) -isoeugenol), 2-methoxy-4- ( (E) -1-propenyl) phenol ((E) -iso-eugenol), 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone (furaneola®), 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde (vanillin), 4- (4-hydroxyphenyl) -2-butanone (raspberry ketone), (Z, Z) -3,6-nonadiene-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-7 -octen-1-ol (rhodinol) and (Z) -3-octen-1-ol, biocidal alcohols, it is possible to use both individual aromatic alcohols or biocidal alcohols, and mixtures of aromatic alcohols or biocidal alcohols. Depending on the time and reaction conditions, lower alcohols also separate alcohol selected from the group of hexene-1-ol, cinnamon alcohol, 3-phenylpropan-1-ol (hydrocinnamic alcohol), 3R (-) - linalool, 3S (+) - linalool , (-) - menthol, (+) - neomenthol, α-terpineol, β-terpineol, γ-terpineol, δ-terpineol, (-) - borneol, (+) - isoborneol, (-) - lavenderulol, (Z) -4-hepten-2-ol, eugenol, 2-methoxy-4 - ((Z) -1-propenyl) phenol ((Z) -isoeugenol), 2-methoxy-4 - ((E) -1-propenyl) phenol ((E) -iso-eugenol), 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone (furaneola®), 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde (vanillin), 4- (4-hydroxy enyl) -2-butanone (raspberry ketone), (Z, Z) -3,6-nonadiene-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-7-octene-1-ol (rhodinol) and (Z) -3- octen-1-ol, and if necessary bind different aromatic alcohols or biocidal alcohols, which differ from this group, and alcohols along the chains or rings of Si-O-Si exchange more easily than terminal alcohols. Such transesterifications can be carried out, for example, as described in the publication of H. Steimann, G. Tschernko, H. Hamann, Z. Chem. 3, 1977, pp. 89-92. The content of this publication is considered especially as a disclosure of the present invention for the production of silicic acid esters. As a rule, ordinary silicic acid esters are used as educts. Here, in particular, ethanol ester is called, which, for example, can be obtained from Wacker, Burghausen. Moreover, transesterification can be controlled exclusively by increasing the temperature and distillation of volatile by-products. However, it is preferred that catalysts are used for the transesterification. Moreover, as a rule, we are talking about Lewis acids, preferably aluminum tetraisopropylate, titanium tetraisopropylate, silicon tetrachloride or basic catalysts or also compositions, such as, for example, aluminum oxide with potassium fluoride. The oligomeric silicic acid esters thus formed have then, at least in part, residues of aromatic alcohols and / or residues of biocidal alcohols, or a combination of both. As a rule, the obtained esters contain, however, residues of lower alcohols having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, iso-propanol, n-butanol, iso-butanol and tert-butanol. If insignificant amounts of water or other hydrogen-acid compounds are present in the preparation of silicic acid esters, the exchange of alcohol residues to OH groups also occurs. Accordingly, the mixtures of silicic acid esters proposed according to the invention, as a rule, also contain hydrogen as the residue R.

Esters of oligosilicic acids of lower alcohols having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, iso-propanol, n-butanol, iso-butanol and tert-butanol, are commercially available, and, as a rule, methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, iso-propanol, n-butanol, iso-butanol and tert-butanol are used for esterification. The preparation of incompletely transesterified esters of oligosilicic acids leads to mixtures of silicic acid esters in which some of the R moieties are selected from the group of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl and tert-butyl. Within the scope of the invention, such compounds are preferred.

In the framework of the proposed invention, the term "aromatic alcohols" means fragrant substances that are bound by free hydroxyl groups, which are esterifiable regardless of what the molecule is built next. Thus, salicylic acid esters can also be used as aromatic alcohols. According to the invention, a fragrant substance is understood to mean such odorous substances, essences and aromatic substances that cause a pleasant sense of smell in people and therefore are used to perfume technical and sanitary products, soaps, cosmetics, body care products and similar diverse applications. By the generic term “odorous substances” according to the invention is meant standard specific chemical compounds with an odor and / or taste, that is, all substances or their mixtures that are perceived by humans and animals as odors.

In order to be able to smell, a substance must fulfill certain molecular conditions: a small molar mass (maximum 300) with a correspondingly high vapor pressure, surface activity, minimal water solubility and high lipid solubility, as well as weak polarity. A highly hydrophobic and weakly polar part of the molecule is sufficient for sensory activity to occur. In addition, stoichiometry, that is, the spatial configuration of the molecule, plays an important role for the properties of substances as odorous substances. From a large group of aromatic alcohols, preferred representatives can be mentioned, in particular, (Z) -2-hexen-1-ol, (E) -2-hexen-1-ol, (Z) -3-hexen-1-ol (alcohol leaf), (E) -3-hexen-1-ol, (Z) -4-hexen-1-ol, (E) -4-hexen-1-ol, 5-hexen-1-ol, cinnamon, 3-phenylpropan-1-ol (hydrocinnamic alcohol), 3R (-) - linalool, 3S (+) - linalool, (-) - menthol, (+) - neomenthol, α-terpineol, β-terpineol, γ-terpineol, δ-terpineol, (-) - borneol, (+) - isoborneol, (-) - lavenderulol, (Z) -4-hepten-2-ol, eugenol, 2-methoxy-4 - ((Z) -1-propenyl ) phenol ((Z) -isoevgenol), 2-methoxy-4 - ((E) -1-propenyl) phenol ((E) -isoevgenol), 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2 ) -furanone (furaneol®), 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde (vanillin), 4- (4-hydroxyphenyl) -2-butanone (raspberry ketone), (Z, Z) -3,6-nonadiene-1-ol , 3,7-dimethyl-7-octen-1-ol (rhodinol), (Z) -3-octen-1-ol, 10-undecene-1-ol, 2,6-dimethylheptan-2-ol, 2- methylbutanol, 2-methylpentanol, 2-phenoxyethanol, 2-phenyl-propan-1-ol, 2-tert-butylcyclohexanol, 3,5,5-trimethylcyclohexanol, 3-hexanol, 3-methyl-5-phenylpentanol, 3-octanol, 4-heptenol, 4-isopropylcyclohexanol, 4-tert-butyl-cyclohexanol, 6,8-dimethyl-2-nonanol, 6-nonen-1-ol, 9-decen-1-ol, α-methylbenzyl alcohol, amyl salicylate, benzyl benzyl alcohol alicylate, butyl salicylate, citronellol, cyclohexyl salicylate, decanol, dihydromyrceneol, dimethylbenzylcarbinol, dimethylheptanol, dimethyloctanol, ethylsalicylate, ethylvanilin, farnesol, geraniol-isolenol-isolenol-isolenol-isolenol-isolenol-isolenol-isolenol-alkanol para-mentan-7-ol, phenylethyl alcohol, phenol, phenyl salicylate, tetrahydroheraniol, tetrahydro-linalool, thymol, trans-2-cis-6-nonadienol, trans-2-nonen-1-ol, trans-2-octenol and undecanol.

By biocidal alcohols according to the invention is meant all compounds which have at least one alcohol moiety and at least inhibit the growth of microorganisms. Here are called, for example, alcohols, which also act as aromatic alcohols. In particular, they are citronellol, eugenol, farnesol, thymol and geraniol. The following biocidal alcohols are phenoxyethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerin, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1,2-pentanediol and 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1,6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, citric acid and its esters, lactic acid and its esters, salicylic acid and its esters, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol and 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol). According to the invention, the lower alcohols, which are already further named above as common residues of silicic acid esters, do not serve as biocidal alcohols. They are specifically methyl alcohol, ethyl alcohol, n-propyl alcohol, iso-propyl alcohol, n-butyl alcohol, iso-butyl alcohol and tert-butyl alcohol, which according to the invention are not considered as biocidal alcohols. Classical biocides with alcohol functions, on the contrary, are especially considered as biocidal alcohols, also if their action is determined by other functional groups. As an example, various bromophenols and biphenolol, triclosan, chlortimol, α- (2-ethylhexyl) glycerol ether, 2-methyl-4-phenylbutan-2-ol, as well as quaternary ammonium compounds with at least one long an alkyl radical and at least one alkyl which has a hydroxy group.

If incompletely transesterified esters of oligosilicic acids are obtained, then at least one of R residues that are different from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl is derived from an alcohol selected from the group formed from (Z) -2-hexene-1-ol, (E) -2-hexene-1-ol, (Z) -3-hexene-1-ol (leaf alcohol), (E) -3-hexene-1-ol, (Z) -4-hexene-1-ol, (E) -4-hexene-1-ol, 5-hexene-1-ol, cinnamon, 3-phenylpropane -1-ol (hydrocinnamic alcohol), 3R (-) - linalool, 3S (+) - linalool, (-) - menthol, (+) - nementhol, α-terpineol , β-terpineol, γ-terpineol, δ-terpineol, (-) - borneol, (+) - isoborneol, (-) - lavenderulol, (Z) -4-hepten-2-ol, eugenol, 2-methoxy-4 - ((Z) -1-propenyl) phenol ((Z) -iso-eugenol), 2-methoxy-4 - ((E) -1-propenyl) phenol ((E) -iso-eugenol), 4-hydroxy-2,5 -dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone (furaneola®), 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde (vanillin), 4- (4-hydroxyphenyl) -2-butanone (raspberry ketone), (Z, Z) -3,6 nonadiene-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-7-octene-1-ol (rhodinol) and (Z) -3-octene-1-ol, and, if necessary, additionally from at least one of the following alcohol and / or from at least one of the following its biocide-tion of alcohol.

Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight. and in particular preferably more than 40% of the mass. R residues come from at least one alcohol selected from the group consisting of (Z) -2-hexen-1-ol, (E) -2-hexene-1-ol, (Z) -3- hexene-1-ol (leaf alcohol), (E) -3-hexene-1-ol, (Z) -4-hexene-1-ol, (E) -4-hexene-1-ol, 5-hexene- 1-ol, cinnamon alcohol, 3-phenylpropan-1-ol (hydrocinnamic alcohol), 3R (-) - linalool, 3S (+) - linalool, (-) - menthol, (+) - neomenthol, α-terpineol, β -terpineol, γ-terpineol, δ-terpineol, (-) - borneol, (+) - isoborneol, (-) - lavenderulol, (Z) -4-hepten-2-ol, eugenol, 2-methoxy-4- ( (Z) -1-propenyl) phenol ((Z) -isoeuvgenol), 2-methoxy-4 - ((E) -1-propenyl) pheno la ((E) -iso-eugenol), 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone (furaneola®), 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde (vanillin), 4- (4-hydroxyphenyl) -2 -butanone (raspberry ketone), (Z, Z) -3,6-nonadiene-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-7-octene-1-ol (rhodinol) and (Z) -3-octene-1- ol.

Extremely preferred proposed according to the invention cosmetic compositions are characterized in that at least 10% of the mass., Preferably at least 20% of the mass. and in particular, preferably more than 40% of the mass. R residues are derived from at least one alcohol selected from (Z) -3-hexene-1-ol (leaf alcohol).

Since the starting compounds for the preparation of compounds according to the invention for economic reasons are preferably not odorous substances, but technical mixtures of esters of oligosilicic acids of lower alcohols having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, with different degrees of oligomerization, the distribution of degrees of oligomerization is also difficult esters in the agents according to the invention, which can correspond to the starting material or be modified due to the reaction new conditions.

Particularly preferred cosmetic formulations according to the invention are characterized in that the values of n are taken from the range from 2 to 50, preferably from the range from 2 to 20 and, in particular, from the range from 3 to 10, with particular preference being given to the values 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8, and the values of m are taken from the range from 2 to 10 with particular preference for values 2 and 3.

The cosmetic formulations according to the invention comprise the silicic acid esters proposed or proposed according to the invention according to one of claims 1 to 3, preferably in total amounts from 0.000001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 0.5% of the mass. and, in particular, from 0.05 to 0.1% of the mass. based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

The following preferred cosmetic formulations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the silicic acid esters proposed or proposed according to the invention according to one of claims 1 to 3, mixed with silicic esters of the formulas I, and / or II, and / or III and / or IV, wherein, respectively, at least one R residue is derived from aromatic alcohols and / or biocidal alcohols that differ from (Z) -2-hexene-1-ol, (E) -2-hexene-1 -ol, (Z) -3-hexene-1-ol (leaf alcohol), (E) -3-hexene-1-ol, (Z) -4-hexene-1-ol, (E) -4-hexene -1-ol , 5-hexene-1-ol, cinnamon, 3-phenylpropan-1-ol (hydrocinnamic alcohol), 3R (-) - linalool, 3S (+) - linalool, (-) - menthol, (+) - nementhol, α-terpineol, β-terpineol, γ-terpineol, δ-terpineol, (-) - borneol, (+) - isobornoleol, (-) - lavenderulol, (Z) -4-hepten-2-ol, eugenol, 2- methoxy-4 - ((Z) -1-propenyl) phenol of ((Z) -iso-eugenol), 2-methoxy-4 - ((E) -1-propenyl) phenol ((E) -iso-eugenol), 4-hydroxy- 2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone (furaneola®), 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde (vanillin), 4- (4-hydroxyphenyl) -2-butanone (raspberry ketone), (Z, Z) - 3,6-nonadiene-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-7-octene-1-ol (rhodinol) and (Z) -3- octen-1-ol, in total amounts from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 1.0% by weight. and, in particular, from 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5, 0.6 0.7 or 0.8% by weight, respectively, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

In addition to the ester or esters of silicic acids, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may contain at least one of the following aromatic substances.

As aromatic oils or aromatic substances according to the invention, individual odorous compounds can be used, for example, synthetic products such as esters, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Compounds of the odor type of ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butyl cyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethyl benzyl carbinyl acetate (DMBCA), phenylethyl acetate, benzyl acetate, ethylmethyl phenylacetate cyclophenylacetate cyclophenylate ethers belong, for example, benzyl ethyl ether and ambroxan, to aldehydes, for example, linear alkanes having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citron llal, citronellyloxy-acetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, lilial and bourgeon, for ketones, for example, zhonons, alpha-isomeilionone and methylcetriketone, anethole, citronellol, eugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpeneol, mainly, limonene and pinene. However, it is preferable to use mixtures of various odorous substances which together produce the corresponding aroma note.

Such aromatic oils may also contain mixtures of odorous substances that are available from plant sources, for example pine oil, lemon oil, jasmine oil, patchouli oil, rose oil or ylang-ylang oil. Also suitable are clary sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, peppermint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden oil, juniper oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil and opium tincture oil, as well as orange flower oil, neroliol , orange peel oil and sandalwood oil.

By distributing the total perfume content in the fragrance, which is esterified esters of silicic acids, and perfume, which is unesterified, a large number of product characteristics can be realized. Thus, it is permissible and possible to distribute the total fragrance content according to the invention into two portions x and y, part x consisting of semi-solid, i.e. less volatile and part y of volatile aromatic oils.

A general description of the fragrances used (see above) represents generally different classes of odorous substances. To be perceptible, odorous substances must be volatile, and along with the nature of the functional groups and the structure of the chemical compound, the molar mass also plays an important role. Thus, most odorous substances have a molar mass of up to about 200 Daltons, while molar masses of 300 Daltons and above are more likely to be the exception. Based on the different volatilities of odorous substances, the smell of a perfume or fragrance composed of several odorous substances changes during evaporation, and the impression of smell is divided into a “top note”, “heart note or middle note” (middle note or body), and also the “main note” (end note or dry out). Since the perception of odor is also mainly based on the intensity of the odor, the top note of fragrance or fragrance is not only composed of volatile compounds, while the main note is mostly composed of less volatile, that is, semi-solid odorous substances. In the preparation of perfumes, volatile odorous substances can be bound, for example, with certain fixatives, as a result of which their rapid evaporation is prevented. In the next distribution of odorous substances into “volatile” or “semi-solid” odorous substances, nothing is said about the impression of the smell and whether the corresponding odorous substance is perceived as the top note or the note of the heart.

Semi-solid odorous substances that are used in the framework of the proposed invention are, for example, essential oils such as angelica root oil, anise oil, arnica flower oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, champaka flower oil, white fir oil, oil white fir cones, Elumi oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce oil, galbanum oil, geranium oil, gingergrass oil, guaiac oil, guryunbalzam oil, immortelle oil, Ho oil, ginger oil, iri butter, kayeput oil, chamomile oil, chamomile oil, camphor oil, kanganga oil, cardamom oil, cassia oil, pine needles oil, kopay balm oil, coriander oil, curly peppermint oil, cumin oil, cumin oil, lavender oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, tangerine oil, lemon balm oil, musk seed oil, myrrh oil, clove oil, neroli oil, niauli oil, olibanum oil, orange oil, origan oil, palmarosa oil, patchouli oil, Peruvian balm oil ama, petigren oil, pepper oil, peppermint oil, clove pepper oil, fir oil, rose oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, celery oil, spicy oil, star anise oil, turpentine oil, thuja oil, thyme oil, verbena oil , veriver oil, juniper oil, vermouth oil, wintergreen oil, ylang-ylang oil, hyssop oil, cinnamon oil, cinnamon leaf oil, citronella oil, lemon oil, and cypress oil.

In the framework of the proposed invention, it is also possible to use high-boiling or solid odorous substances of natural or synthetic origin as semi-solid odorous substances or mixtures of odorous substances, namely fragrant substances. The following compounds belong to these compounds, as well as mixtures of them: ambrettolide, α-amylcinnamic aldehyde, anethole, anisic aldehyde, anisic alcohol, anisole, anthranilic acid methyl ester, acetophenone, benzylacetone, benzaldehyde, benzoic acid ethyl ester, benzofen , benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, benzyl formate, benzyl valerianate, borneol, bornyl acetate, α-bromostyrene, n-decylaldehyde, n-dodecylaldehyde, eugenol, simple eugenolmethyl ether, eucalyptol, farnesol, fenzone, fenchone, t, geranyl acetate, geranyl formate, heliotropin, heptin carboxylic acid methyl ester, heptaldehyde, hydroquinondimethyl ether, hydroxycinnamic aldehyde, hydroxycinnamic alcohol, indole, iron, isoevgenol, isoevgenol-methyl ether, isosafrol, carmon simple, jasmin -cresolmethyl ether, coumarin, n-methoxyacetophenone, methyl-n-amylketone, methylanthranilic acid methyl ester, p-methylacetophenone, methylchavicol, p-methylquinoline, methyl-β-naphthylketone, methyl-n-nonylacetaldehyde, methyl-n-butene ilketone, muscon, β-naphthoethyl ether, β-naphthol methyl ether, nerol, nitrobenzene, n-nonylaldehyde, nonyl alcohol, n-octylaldehyde, p-hydroxy-acetophenone, pentadecanolide, β-phenylethyl ethyl acetate, phenyl acid, phenyl , bulletin, safrole, salicylic acid isoamyl ester, salicylic acid methyl ester, salicylic acid hexyl ester, salicylic acid cyclohexyl ester, santalol, scatol, terpineol, tymene, thymol, γ-undecalactone vantany, aldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, cinnamic alcohol, cinnamic acid, ethyl cinnamate, benzyl ester of cinnamic acid.

To volatile odorous substances belong, in particular, low boiling odorous substances of natural or synthetic origin, which can be used individually or in a mixture. Examples of volatile odorous substances are alkyl isothiocyanates (alkyl mustard oil), butanedione, limonene, linalool, linalyl acetate and linalyl propionate, menthol, menthol, methyl n-heptenone, fellandren, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronella.

Depending on the scope of the cosmetics, they may contain a large number of the following components. They are described below. Since the term “proposed according to the invention means” is used further, a cosmetic means is always meant in this way.

The silicic acid esters according to the invention reveal, in particular, their beneficial effects in the treatment of hair. As a rule, with personal care, the skin is cleaned more often than hair, in particular, since hair after cleaning needs expensive drying and styling. Therefore, the consumer wants a particularly long lasting care effect from the hair care product. Longer perfumes also signal to the user about the continued effect of the entire product.

Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they are a composition for the care of keratin fibers, in particular human hair. As such agents are used, in particular, shampoos, conditioners, conditioners, hair balms, hair tonics, hair fluids, hair gels, hair sprays, etc. The next important representatives of this group are hair coloring agents, in particular oxidative hair coloring agents.

Therefore, the next object of the proposed invention is the use of a cosmetic composition, which in a suitable cosmetic carrier contains an ester of silicic acids of the formulas I, and / or II, and / or III, and / or IV

wherein, respectively, at least one R residue is derived from at least one alcohol selected from the group consisting of (Z) -2-hexene-1-ol, (E) -2-hexene-1- ol, (Z) -3-hexene-1-ol (leaf alcohol), (E) -3-hexene-1-ol, (Z) -4-hexene-1-ol, (E) -4-hexene- 1-ol, 5-hexene-1-ol, cinnamon, 3-phenylpropan-1-ol (hydrocinnamic alcohol), 3R (-) - linalool, 3S (+) - linalool, (-) - menthol, (+) neomenthol, α-terpineol, β-terpineol, γ-terpineol, δ-terpineol, (-) - borneol, (+) - isoborneol, (-) - lavenderulol, (Z) -4-heptene-2-ol, eugenol , 2-methoxy-4 - ((Z) -1-propenyl) phenol (( Z) -iso-eugenol), 2-methoxy-4 - ((E) -1-propenyl) phenol ((E) -iso-eugenol), 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone (furaneola®) , 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde (vanillin), 4- (4-hydroxyphenyl) -2-butanone (raspberry ketone), (Z, Z) -3,6-nonadiene-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl- 7-octene-1-ol (rhodinol) and (Z) -3-octene-1-ol, and other R residues, are independently selected from the group consisting of one hydrogen atom, straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon residues having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and a 2-phenoxyethyl residue, and Ia m is taken from the range from 1 to 20 and n of the range from 2 to 100, and mixtures thereof, for treating keratin fibers, in particular human hair.

Hair cleansers (shampoos), as well as body cleansers (shower products, shower gels, bath preparations, liquid soaps, synthetic detergents), may contain (more or less strongly) foaming anionic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and nonionic surfactants. Hair rinsing agents, an oversized agent and a conditioning agent for cleansing the skin and body (2 in 1 shower gels) preferably contain cationic surfactants and / or water-soluble quaternary ammonium polymers to reduce static charge and to improve hair combability or improving the feeling of hair to the touch. Hair and skin cleansers differ from each other mainly only in the amount of surfactants: based on the insignificant sensitivity of hair compared to skin, shampoos and similar formulations in most cases contain more surfactants, in particular more cationic surfactants than skin cleansers. Means for cleansing the skin preferably contain from 0 to 2% of the mass., Particularly preferably from 0 to 1% of the mass. cationic surfactants. In addition, emollients, less degreasing surfactants are preferably used in skin cleansers. Other hair treatments contain essential supplements that are more likely not suitable for skin treatments. Thus, perming fixers preferably contain oxidizing agents, such as, for example, potassium bromate or hydrogen peroxide. Coloring shampoos for hair contain substantive dyes or the initial products of oxidative dyes. Hair styling fixers and hair styling products, as well as other hair styling compositions, contain, as a rule, film-forming, soluble polymers in an aqueous or hydroalcoholic medium, if necessary together with cationic surfactants or cationic polymers.

Especially preferred is the use of surfactants (E) in the products according to the invention. Therefore, in a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one surfactant. The term “surfactants” means surfactants that form adsorption layers on the surface and the boundary surface or can be aggregated in bulk phases into micellar colloids or lyotropic mesophases. There are anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants that carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants, which, along with a hydrophobic residue, have a positively charged hydrophilic group, and non-ionic surfactants that do not show any charges, and strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated mi in aqueous solution.

As the anionic surfactants (E1) in the compositions according to the invention, all suitable anionic surfactants are suitable for use on the human body. They are distinguished by a water solubility promoting anionic group, such as, for example, a carboxylate group, a sulfate group, a sulfonate group or a phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group having from about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Additionally, the molecule may contain glycol groups or polyglycol ether groups, ester groups, ethers and amides, as well as hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants, respectively, in the form of sodium, potassium and ammonium salts, as well as monoalkanolammonium, dialkanolammonium and trialkanolammonium having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group, are:

- linear and branched fatty acids having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),

- ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ —CH ₂ O) _x —CH ₂ —COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or from 1 to 16,

- acyl sarcosides having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

- acyl taurides having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

- acyl isethionates having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

- monoalkyl and dialkyl esters of sulfosuccinic acid (sulfosuccinates) having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, and monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters of sulfosuccinic acid having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and from 1 to 6 hydroxyethyl groups,

- linear alkanesulfonates having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

- linear alpha olefin sulfonates having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

- methyl esters of alpha-sulfo-fatty acids based on fatty acids having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

- alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ —CH ₂ O) _x —OSO ₃ H, in which R preferably represents a linear alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and x = 0 or from 1 to 12,

- sulfated simple hydroxyalkylpolyethylene glycol ethers and / or hydroxyalkylenepropylene glycol ethers,

- sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 6 double bonds,

esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, which are products of the addition of from about 2 to 15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

- alkyl ether phosphates and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I),

in which R ¹ preferably means an aliphatic hydrocarbon residue having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ² preferably means hydrogen, the residue (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² or X, n is equal to the numbers from 1 to 10 and X means hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ -R ⁶ independently from each other mean hydrogen or a hydrocarbon residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

- sulfated complex alkylene glycol esters of fatty acids of the formula (E1-II)

R ⁷ CO - means a linear or branched aliphatic saturated and / or unsaturated acyl residue having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk means CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n is equal to numbers from 0, 5 to 5 and M means cation,

- monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride episulfates of the formula (E1-III)

in which R ⁸ CO means a linear or branched acyl residue having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total equal to the numbers from 1 to 30, preferably from 2 to 10, and X means an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of suitable monoglyceride (ether) sulfates according to the invention are the conversion products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid mono-glyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, butyric acid monoglyceride and fatty acid monoxide and mono-glyceride fatty acids chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are used, in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl residue having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

amidethercarboxylic acids,

- condensation products from fatty alcohols having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the person skilled in the art as condensates of protein fatty acids, such as, for example, Lamepon® types, Gluadin® types or Hostapon® KCG types.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulphates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulphates and ether carboxylic acids having from 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, monoalkyl esters and dialkyl esters of sulphosuccinic acid having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, monoalkylpolyoxyethyl ester of sulfosuccinic acid having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4 hydroxyethylene groups and ethoxy leaded esters of alkyl esters of citric acid and sulfosuccinic acids having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and from 1 to 6, preferably from 3 to 5 hydroxyethylene groups, for example disodium PEG lauryl citrates sulfosuccinates sold, for example, by the company Goldschmidt under the name Rewopol SB CS 50 K, in addition, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkenyl ether phosphates, as well as protein fatty acid condensates and amino acid-fatty acid condensates, for example sodium lauroyl glutamates, for example, sold by Zschi mmer & Schwarz called Protelan AGL 95.

As zwitterionic surfactants (E2) are meant those surfactants which have in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one —COO ^(-) or

-SO ₃ ^(-) . Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocosalkyl-dimethyl-ammonium-glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocosacylaminopropyl -dimethyl-ammonium-glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imide-zolins, respectively having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocosacidaminoethyl-hydroxy-ethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is a fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are understood to mean such surfactants which, in addition to an alkyl or acyl group having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, contain in the molecule at least one free amino group and at least one group -COOH or -SO ₃ H and suitable for the formation of internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkyl propionic acids, N-alkyl aminobutyric acids, N-alkyl iminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkyl amidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkyl amino acids having respectively from about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocosalkylamino propionate, cocosacylaminoethylaminopropionate and acyl sarcosine having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain as a hydrophilic group, for example, a polyol group, a poly-alkylene glycol ether group or a combination of a polyol group and polyglycol ethers. Such compounds are, for example,

- addition products from 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkyl phenols having from 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

- the terminal groups of a methyl or alkyl residue having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, closed products of addition from 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and to alkyl phenols having from 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as, for example, types sold under the trade names Dehydol®LS, Dehydol®LT (Cognis),

- monoesters and diesters of fatty acids having from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, products of addition from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide to glycerin,

- addition products from 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide to castor oil and cured castor oil,

- esters of poly-fatty acids, such as, for example, the commercial product Hydagen® HSP (Cognis) or type Sovermol (Cognis),

- alkoxylated triglycerides,

- alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I)

in which R ¹ CO means a linear or branched saturated and / or unsaturated acyl residue having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ² means hydrogen or methyl, R ³ means linear or branched alkyl residues having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and w is equal to numbers from 1 to 20,

- amine oxides,

- simple mixed hydroxyether,

esters of sorbitan acid and products of the addition of ethylene oxide to esters of sorbate acid, such as, for example, polysorbates,

fatty acid esters of sugars and products of the addition of ethylene oxide to sugar sugars, for example, trade products Glucate SS, Glucate DO, Glucamate DOE 120 and Glucamate SSE 20,

- products of the addition of ethylene oxide to alkanolamides of fatty acids and fatty amines,

- surfactants of sugars such as alkyl oligoglycosides and alkenyl oligoglycosides according to the formula

in which R ⁴ means an alkyl or alkenyl residue having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G means a sugar residue having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and p is equal to numbers from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by appropriate preparative organic chemistry.

Alkyl oligoglycosyls and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. Preferred alkyl oligoglycosides and / or yl alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl oligoglucosides and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) gives the degree of oligomerization (DP), that is, the distribution of monoglycosides and oligoglycosides and means a number between 1 and 10. While p in an individual molecule should always be an integer, and here above all the values p can be taken = 1 to 6, the p value for a particular alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically calculated value, which in most cases is a fractional number. Alkyl oligoglucosides and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. From the point of view of technical use, such alkyl oligoglucosides and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides are preferred whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and, in particular, between 1.2 and 1.4. The residue of alkyl or alkenyl R ⁴ can be removed from primary alcohols having from 4 to 11, preferably from 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, nylon alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol, as well as their technical mixtures, such as, for example, obtained by hydrogenation of industrial methyl esters of fatty acids or during the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen oxysynthesis. Alkyl oligoglycosides with chain lengths of 8 to 10 carbon atoms (DP = 1-3) are preferred, which are obtained as a first fraction by distillation separation from industrial coconut fatty alcohol having 8 to 18 carbon atoms and may be contaminated with a portion of less than 6 % of the mass. alcohol having 12 carbon atoms, as well as alkyl oligoglucosides based on industrial oxo alcohols having from 9 to 11 carbon atoms (DP = 1-3). The residue of alkyl or alkenyl can also be removed from primary alcohols having from 12 to 22, preferably from 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petrozelinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, technical adenyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol which can be obtained as described above. Preferred are cured coconut alcohol alkyl oligoglucosides with a DP of 1 to 3.

- surfactants of sugars such as N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides of fatty acids, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (E4-III),

in which R ⁵ CO means an aliphatic acyl residue having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ⁶ means hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and [Z] means a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl residue having from 3 up to 12 carbon atoms and from 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups. Fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which are usually obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, alkylamine or alkanolamine and the following acylation with fatty acid, fatty acid alkyl ester or fatty acid chloride. Preferably, fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular glucose. Therefore, preferred fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are N-alkyl fatty acid glucamides, such as those indicated in the formula R ⁷ CO — NR ⁸ —CH ₂ - (CHOH) ₄ —CH ₂ OH (E4-IV), wherein R ⁸ is hydrogen or alkyl group and R ⁷ CO

means the residue of acyl caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, butyric acid, elaidic acid, petrozelinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachinic acid, g , behenic acid or erucanoic acid, or such technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are N-alkyl glucamides of fatty acids of the formula (E4-IV), which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or coconut fatty acid having from 12 to 14 carbon atoms, or a corresponding derivative. In addition, polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be produced from maltose and palatinose.

Preferred non-ionic surfactants are the products of the addition of alkylene oxides to saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having, respectively, from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Compositions with outstanding properties are also obtained if they contain ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters as nonionic surfactants.

These compounds differ in the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be either linear or branched. Preferred are primary linear and at position 2 methyl-branched aliphatic residues. Such alkyl residues are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using the so-called “oxo-alcohols”, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain prevail as starting materials.

Also particularly preferred are nonionic surfactants sugars. They may be present in the inventive agents preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20 wt%. per all means. Preferred are amounts from 0.5 to 15% of the mass. and completely preferred are amounts from 0.5 to 7.5% of the mass.

In the case of compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactants, we can talk respectively about standard substances. However, as a rule, it is preferable, upon receipt of these substances, to come from natural plant or animal raw materials, so that mixtures of substances are obtained with various lengths of the alkyl chains dependent on the corresponding raw materials.

In the case of surfactants that represent the products of the addition of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols or derivatives of such addition products, both products with a “normal” homolog distribution and products with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. In this case, the “normal” distribution of homologs is understood to mean mixtures of homologs, which are obtained by the interaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. A narrow distribution of homologues, in contrast, is obtained if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts based on ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides or alkaline earth metal alcoholates are used as catalysts. It may be preferable to use products with a narrow distribution of homologues.

According to the invention, cationic surfactants such as quaternary ammonium compounds, ester quarters and amido amines are used. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tritsetilmetilammony chloride, and the imidazolium compounds known under the names according to INCI Quaternion-27 and Quaternion-83. The long alkyl chains of the above surfactants preferably have from 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Preferred are the inventive QAVs with behenyl residues, in particular substances known as begentrimonium chloride or begentrimonium bromide (docosa-nyltrimethylammonium chloride or docosanyltrimethylammonium bromide). Other preferred QAVs have at least two behenyl residues, with QAVs that have two imidazolinium-based behenyl residues are particularly preferred. These substances are commercially available, for example, under the names Genamin® KDMP (Clariant) and Crodazosoft® DBO (Crodauza).

In the case of quaternary esters, we are talking about known substances that contain at least one ether function, and at least one ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred quaternary esters are quaternary fatty acid ester salts with triethanolamine, quaternary fatty acid ester salts with diethanolalkylamines and quaternary fatty acid ester salts with 1,2-dihydroxypropyl dialkylamines. Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks of Stepantex®, Dehy-quart® and Armocare®. Examples of such quaternary esters are Armocare® VGH-70, N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) -dimethylammonium chloride products, as well as Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® C-4046, Dehyquart® L80 and Dehyquart® AU- 35.

Alkylamidoamines are obtained, as a rule, by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and derivatives of fatty acids with dialkylaminoamines. A particularly preferred compound of this group of substances according to the invention is stearamidopropyl-dimethylamine, sold under the trade name Tegoamid® S 18.

Proposed according to the invention, the means contain cationic surfactants, preferably in amounts from 0.05 to 10% of the mass. per all means. Especially preferred are amounts from 0.1 to 5% of the mass.

Surfactants (E) are preferably used in amounts of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight. and extremely preferably from 1.0 to 15% of the mass. accordingly, based on all proposed according to the invention tool.

According to the invention, anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, as well as mixtures thereof, may be preferred.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention, in particular compositions for cleansing hair and / or skin, are characterized in that they contain a combination of at least one anionic surfactant, particularly preferably an alkyl ether sulfate, and at least one zwitterionic surfactant, particularly preferably cocamidopropyl betaine, as well as at least one silicic acid ester of the formulas I, and / or II, and / or III, and / or IV,

wherein, respectively, at least one R residue is derived from at least one alcohol selected from the group consisting of (Z) -2-hexene-1-ol, (E) -2-hexene-1- ol, (Z) -3-hexene-1-ol (leaf alcohol), (E) -3-hexene-1-ol, (Z) -4-hexene-1-ol, (E) -4-hexene- 1-ol, 5-hexene-1-ol, cinnamon, 3-phenylpropan-1-ol (hydrocinnamic alcohol), 3R (-) - linalool, 3S (+) - linalool, (-) - menthol, (+) neomenthol, α-terpineol, β-terpineol, γ-terpineol, δ-terpineol, (-) - borneol, (+) - isoborneol, (-) - lavenderulol, (Z) -4-heptene-2-ol, eugenol , 2-methoxy-4 - ((Z) -1-propenyl) phenol (( Z) -iso-eugenol), 2-methoxy-4 - ((E) -1-propenyl) phenol ((E) -iso-eugenol), 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone (furaneola®) , 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde (vanillin), 4- (4-hydroxyphenyl) -2-butanone (raspberry ketone), (Z, Z) -3,6-nonadiene-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl- 7-octene-1-ol (rhodinol) and (Z) -3-octene-1-ol, and other R residues, are independently selected from the group consisting of one hydrogen atom, straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon residues having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and the residue of 2-phenoxyethyl, and n m are taken from the region from 1 to 20 and n from the region from 2 to 100.

The following particularly preferred compositions according to the invention, in particular compositions for cleansing hair and / or skin, are characterized in that they contain a combination of at least one anionic surfactant, particularly preferably alkyl ether sulfate, and at least one an ampholytic surfactant, particularly preferably amphoacetate or amphodiacetate, as well as at least one silicic acid ester of formulas I, and / or II, and / or III, and / or IV,

wherein, respectively, at least one R residue is derived from at least one alcohol selected from the group consisting of (Z) -2-hexene-1-ol, (E) -2-hexene-1- ol, (Z) -3-hexene-1-ol (leaf alcohol), (E) -3-hexene-1-ol, (Z) -4-hexene-1-ol, (E) -4-hexene- 1-ol, 5-hexene-1-ol, cinnamon, 3-phenylpropan-1-ol (hydrocinnamic alcohol), 3R (-) - linalool, 3S (+) - linalool, (-) - menthol, (+) neomenthol, α-terpineol, β-terpineol, γ-terpineol, δ-terpineol, (-) - borneol, (+) - isoborneol, (-) - lavenderulol, (Z) -4-heptene-2-ol, eugenol , 2-methoxy-4 - ((Z) -1-propenyl) phenol (( Z) -iso-eugenol), 2-methoxy-4 - ((E) -1-propenyl) phenol ((E) -iso-eugenol), 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone (furaneola®) , 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde (vanillin), 4- (4-hydroxyphenyl) -2-butanone (raspberry ketone), (Z, Z) -3,6-nonadiene-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl- 7-octene-1-ol (rhodinol) and (Z) -3-octene-1-ol, and other R residues, are independently selected from the group consisting of one hydrogen atom, straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon residues having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and a 2-phenoxyethyl residue, and Ia m is taken from the range from 1 to 20 and n of the range from 2 to 100.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F). Emulsifiers promote the formation of adsorption layers stable in water or oil on the interface, which protect the dispersed droplets from sticking together and thus stabilize the emulsion. Therefore, emulsifiers, such as surfactants, are composed of hydrophobic and hydrophilic parts of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers form preferably M / B emulsions and hydrophobic emulsions form preferably B / M emulsions. An emulsion is understood to mean the distribution in the form of droplets (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid at an energy expenditure for establishing a stabilized interphase surface using surfactants. The choice of such emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers is guided by dispersants and, accordingly, the external phase, as well as the fineness of the emulsion. According to the invention, emulsifiers used are, for example,

- addition products from 1 to 100, preferably from 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and to alkyl phenols having from 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

- monoesters and diesters of fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, based on the products of addition of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide to polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular glycerol,

- products of the addition of ethylene oxide and polyglycerol to esters of methyl glucoside fatty acids, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

- alkyl monoglycosides and alkyl oligoglycosides having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethoxylated analogues, with the degree of oligomerization from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as sugar components being preferred,

- mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example, commercially available products Montanov®L and Montanov®202,

- addition products from 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide to castor oil and cured castor oil,

- partial esters of polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, with saturated fatty acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

- sterols. As sterols, a group of steroids is understood, which on the carbon atom 3 of the steroid skeleton carry a hydroxyl group and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Suitable phytosterols are, for example, ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Sterols are also isolated from fungi and yeast - the so-called mycosterols.

- phospholipids. First of all, they are understood as glucose phospholipids, which are obtained, for example, in the form of lecithin or phosphatidylcholine from, for example, egg yolk or seeds of plants (for example, soybeans).

fatty acid esters of sugars or sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol, and products of the addition of ethylene oxide to sugar fatty acid esters, for example, trade products Glucate SS, Glucate DO, Glucate DOE 120 and Glucate SSE 20,

- polyglycerols and derivatives of polyglycerols, such as, for example, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (a commercial product of Dehymuls ® PGPH),

- linear and branched fatty acids having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and their sodium, potassium, ammonium, calcium, magnesium and zinc salts.

The compositions according to the invention contain emulsifiers, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight. and extremely preferably from 1 to 5% of the mass. accordingly, based on the entire composition.

Preferably, the compositions of the invention may contain at least one nonionic emulsifier with a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) value of 8 to 18. According to the invention, nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10 to 15 are particularly preferred.

In addition, it may be preferable to use the above nonionic emulsifiers as skin care substances or skin and hair conditioning agents. Particularly preferred emulsifiers of this type are PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate (for example, sold as cetiol® HE) or the commercial product Lamesoft® PO 65, which is an aqueous composition of cocoglucoside and glyceryl monooleate.

As, in addition, it is preferable if proposed according to the invention the means contain polymers (G). In a preferred embodiment, the agents used according to the invention, which contain at least one ester of silicic acids of the formulas I, and / or II, and / or III, and / or IV,

wherein, respectively, at least one R residue is derived from at least one alcohol selected from the group consisting of (Z) -2-hexene-1-ol, (E) -2-hexene-1- ol, (Z) -3-hexene-1-ol (leaf alcohol), (E) -3-hexene-1-ol, (Z) -4-hexene-1-ol, (E) -4-hexene- 1-ol, 5-hexene-1-ol, cinnamon, 3-phenylpropan-1-ol (hydrocinnamic alcohol), 3R (-) - linalool, 3S (+) - linalool, (-) - menthol, (+) neomenthol, α-terpineol, β-terpineol, γ-terpineol, δ-terpineol, (-) - borneol, (+) - isoborneol, (-) - lavenderulol, (Z) -4-heptene-2-ol, eugenol , 2-methoxy-4 - ((Z) -1-propenyl) phenol (( Z) -iso-eugenol), 2-methoxy-4 - ((E) -1-propenyl) phenol ((E) -iso-eugenol), 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone (furaneola®) , 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde (vanillin), 4- (4-hydroxyphenyl) -2-butanone (raspberry ketone), (Z, Z) -3,6-nonadiene-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl- 7-octene-1-ol (rhodinol) and (Z) -3-octene-1-ol, and other R residues, are independently selected from the group consisting of one hydrogen atom, straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon residues having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and a 2-phenoxyethyl residue, and Ia m is taken from the range from 1 to 20 and n of the range from 2 to 100, and mixtures thereof, is added so at least one polymer which are effective as cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers. Without reference to this theory, it is believed that the presence of a polymer further improves the adhesion of silicic acid esters to the treated surface or positively affects the release of aroma according to another mechanism.

By cationic or amphoteric polymers is meant polymers that have a group in the main and / or side chain that can be “temporarily” or “permanently” cationic. According to the invention, “polymers which are permanently cationic” are those polymers which, regardless of the pH of the product, have a cationic group. These are usually polymers that contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example, in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. Particularly suitable are those polymers in which quaternary ammonium groups are linked through a hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms to a main polymer chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their derivatives.

Homopolymers of the general formula (G1-I),

in which R ¹ = —H or —CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4 , n means a natural number, and X ^- is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting mainly of their monomer elements shown in formula (G1-I), as well as nonionic monomer elements, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. Within the framework of these polymers, those according to the invention are preferred for which at least one of the following conditions is important:

- R ¹ means methyl group

- R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ mean methyl groups

- m has a value of 2.

As physiologically acceptable counterions X ', for example, halide ions, sulfathions, phosphations, metosulfations, as well as organic ions, such as lactations, citrations, tartrations and acetations, are used. Halogenidions, in particular chloride, are preferred.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, a crosslinked poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride), named according to lNCl polyquaternium-37. Such products are commercially available, for example, under the names Rheocare® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® CR (Ethnichem). Crosslinking can occur, if desired, with multiply olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallyl polyglyceryl ether or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, erythritol, erythritol, erythritol glucose. A preferred crosslinking agent is methylene bisacrylamide.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion, which should have a polymer part of not more than 30% of the mass. Such polymer dispersions are commercially available under the names Salcare® SC 95 (about 50% of the polymer, the following components: mineral oil (INCI name: mineral oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-tridet- 6)) and Salcare® SC 96 (about 50% of the polymer part, the following components: a mixture of propylene glycol diesters with a mixture of caprylic and capric acids (INCI name: propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (name according to INCI: PPG-1-tridetet-6)).

The copolymers with monomer elements according to the formula (G1-I) preferably contain acrylamide, methacrylamide, an alkyl ester having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, acrylic acid and an alkyl ester having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, as methionic as non-ionic monomer elements acids. Also, these copolymers, as described in the case of homopolymers, can be crosslinked. According to the invention, the preferred copolymer is a crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer, such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as about 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare® SC 92.

The following preferred cationic polymers are, for example,

- quaternary cellulose derivatives, such as those commercially available under the names Celquat® and Polymer JR®. Commercial products Celquat® H 100, Celquat® L 200 and Polymer JR® 400 or compounds under the INCI names polyquaternium-10 or polyquaternium-24 are preferred quaternary cellulose derivatives,

- cationic alkylpolyglycosides according to German patent application DE-PS 4413686,

- canonized honey, for example, the commercial product Honeyquat® 50,

cationic guar derivatives, such as, in particular, products sold under the trade names Cosmedia® Guar and Jaquar®,

- polymer salts of dimethyldiallylammonium and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Examples of such preferred cationic polymers are INCI-named polyquaternium-7, commercially available under the names Merquat®100 (poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat®550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer).

copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with quaternary derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, such as, for example, diethyl sulfate quaternary copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate. Such compounds are commercially available under the names Gafquat®734 and Gafquat®755,

copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride, such as those offered under the names Luviquat® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,

- quaternary polyvinyl alcohol,

- as well as polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer backbone, known as polyquaternium 2, polyquaternium 17, polyquaternium 18 and polyquaternium 27.

Polymers known as polyquaternium-24 (a commercial product, for example, Quatrisoft® LM 200) can also be used as cationic polymers. Vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as those sold as commercial products copolymer 845 (manufacturer: ISP), Gaffix® VC 713 (manufacturer: ISP), Gafquat®ASCP 1011, Gafquat®HS 110, Luviquat®8155 and Luviquat® MS 370

The next preferred cationic polymers in the compositions according to the invention are the so-called “permanently cationic” polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group, which at certain pH values is presented as a quaternary ammonium group and, therefore, cationic. Preferred are, for example, chitosan and its derivatives, such as, for example, commercially available under the trade names Hydagen® CMF, Hydagen® HCMF, Kytamer® PC and Chitolam® NB / 101.

Preferred cationic polymers according to the invention are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular, Polymer JR® 400, Hydagen® HCMF and Kytamer® PC products, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular Honeyquat® 50 product, cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to US patent 5773595 and polymers type polyquaternium-37.

In addition, cationic polymers should be considered cationic protein hydrolysates, and the underlying protein hydrolyzate can be derived from animals, for example, from collagen, milk or keratin, from plants, such as wheat, corn, rice, potato, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from collagen of fish or algae, or protein hydrolysates obtained by biotechnological methods. The protein hydrolysates underlying the cationic derivatives according to the invention can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid, hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. Protein hydrolysis typically results in a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution of from about 100 Daltons to several thousand Daltons. Preferred are cationic protein hydrolysates in which the underlying protein portion has a molecular weight of from 100 to 25,000 Daltons, preferably from 250 to 5000 Daltons. In addition, cationic protein hydrolysates are understood to mean quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Quaternization of protein or amino acid hydrolysates is often carried out using quaternized ammonium salts, such as, for example, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) -ammonium halides . In addition, cationic protein hydrolysates can also be further derivatized. Typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives of protein hydrolysates according to the invention are those named under the INCI names in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Washington, DC) and commercially available products are called: cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed hair keratin, cocode Imon hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed rice protein Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, hydroxypropyl arginine lauryl / myristyl simple HCl ether, hydroxypropyltrimonium gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed konhiolinovy protein Hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed keratin hydr oksipropiltrimony hydrolyzed protein brown rice, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed vegetable protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein Hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein / siloksisilikat, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / siloksisilikat, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, laurildimony gidrksipropil hydrolyzed collagen, laurildimony hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, laurildimony hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, steardimonium hydrolysed casein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed rice protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed vegetable protein , teardimony hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, steartrimony hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-76 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed keratin, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed milk protein, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed soy protein, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed wheat protein.

Highly preferred are, where appropriate, cationic protein hydrolysates and plant-based protein hydrolyzate derivatives.

In addition to or in place of cationic polymers, the agents according to the invention may also contain amorphous polymers. They additionally have at least one negatively charged group in the molecule and are also referred to as zwitterionic polymers. In the framework of the proposed invention, preferably used zwitterionic polymers are mainly together composed of

A) monomers with Quaternary ammonium groups of the General formula (Z-I),

in which R ¹ and R ² independently from each other mean hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ ,

R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently from each other mean methyl groups having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z means an NH group or an oxygen atom,

n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A ^(-) means an anion of organic

or inorganic acid

and

B) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (Z-II),

in which R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently from each other mean hydrogen or a methyl group.

Suitable starting monomers are, for example, dimethylaminoethylacrylamide, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and diethylaminoethylacrylamide, if Z is an NH group, or dimethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylaminoethylamine

Then the monomers containing tertiary amino groups are quaternized in a known manner, with methyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate being particularly suitable as alkylation reagents. The quaternion reaction may occur in an aqueous solution or in a solvent.

Preferably, such monomers of the formula (ZI), derivatives of acrylamide or methacrylamide are used. In addition, those monomers which contain ions of halides, methoxysulfates or ethoxysulfates as counterions are preferred. Also preferred are those monomers of formula (ZI) in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ are methyl groups.

A highly preferred monomer of formula (Z-I) is acrylamidopropyl-trimethylammonium chloride.

Suitable monomeric carboxylic acids of the formula (Z-II) are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methyl crotonic acid. Acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, in particular acrylic acid, is preferably used.

The zwitterionic polymers used according to the invention are obtained from monomers of the formulas (Z-I) and (Z-II) according to known polymerization methods. The polymerization can be carried out either in aqueous or in aqueous-alcoholic solution. Alcohols used are alcohols having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably isopropanol, which simultaneously serve as a polymerization regulator. Other components can also be added to the monomer solution as a regulator, for example formic acid or mercaptans such as thioethanol and thioglycolic acid. The initiation of polymerization occurs with the help of substances that form radicals. For this, redox systems and / or thermally degradable radicals can be used, such as azo compounds, such as, for example, nitrile of azoisobutyric acid, azo bis (cyanopentanoic acid) or azo bis (amidinopropane) dihydrochloride. Suitable redox systems are, for example, combinations of hydrogen peroxide, potassium or ammonium peroxodisulfate, and tertiary butyl hydroperoxide with sodium sulfite, sodium dithionite or hydroxyamine hydrochloride as reducing components.

Particularly effective are those polymers in which the monomers of the formula (Z-I) are present in excess compared to the monomers of the formula (Z-II). Therefore, according to the invention, it is preferable to use such polymers which consist of monomers of the formula (Z-I) and monomers of the formula (Z-II) in a molar ratio of from 60:40 to 95: 5, in particular from 75:25 to 95: 5.

Proposed according to the invention means contain cationic or amphoteric polymers, preferably in amounts from 0.05 to 10% of the mass. per all means. Especially preferred are amounts from 0.1 to 5% of the mass.

Anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers that have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers that such polymers can consist of are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. In this case, the acid groups can be fully or partially represented in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid. Anionic polymers that contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or comonomer, the sulfonic acid group can be fully or partially in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium salts, are found to be extremely effective.

Particularly preferred is a homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which is commercially available, for example, under the name Rheothik® 11-80 or (non-crosslinked) under the name Hostacerin.

Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. Relatively anionic monomers refer to the above substances. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic ester, methacrylic ester, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ether and vinyl ester.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers, as well as, in particular, polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of from 70 to 55% of the mass. acrylamide and from 30 to 45% of the mass. 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is partially or fully represented as sodium, potassium, ammonium, monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium salt. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, and polyolefin-unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allyl sucrose, allyl pentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide are preferably used as crosslinking agents. Such a polymer contains the commercial product Sepigel® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this composition, which along with the polymer components contains a mixture of a hydrocarbon (iso-paraffin having from 13 to 14 carbon atoms) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), is particularly preferred in the framework of the proposed invention.

Also according to the invention are particularly effective sold under the names Simulgel®600, Simulgel® NS, Simulgel® EG and Simulgel® EPG as a composition with oil components selected from isohexadecane, polyisobutane and squalane, and with an M / B emulsifier selected from polysorbate- 80 and capryl / caprylglucoside copolymers of sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate with a comonomer selected from acrylamide, hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium acrylate.

Also preferred anionic homopolymers are crosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Preferred crosslinking agents may be pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene allyl ether. Such compounds are commercially available, for example, under the trademarks carbopol®.

Also preferred polymers are copolymers of maleic acid anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, in particular copolymers with crosslinkers. Commercially available is a 1.9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid copolymer of methyl vinyl ether called Stanbileze® QM.

The following preferred formulations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amphoteric polymer (G3). The term amphoteric polymers is understood as such polymers that contain both free amino groups and free groups —COOH or —SO ₃ H in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers that contain quaternary ammonium groups and —COOH in the molecule or —SO ₃ H and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example for the amphopolymer used according to the invention is an acrylic resin sold under the name Amphomer®, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) acrylamide, as well as two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acids and their simple esters.

Preferred amphoteric polymers used are those that are mainly composed of

(a) monomers with quaternary ammonium groups of ammonium of General formula (G3-I),

in which R ¹ and R ² independently from each other mean hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently from each other mean methyl groups having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z means an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A ^(-) means the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and

(b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (G3-II),

in which R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently from each other mean hydrogen or a methyl group.

These compounds according to the invention can be used both directly and in the form of salts, which are obtained by neutralizing the polymers, for example, with alkali hydroxide. Highly preferred are those polymers in which type (a) monomers are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ are methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^(-) is a halide, methoxy sulfate or ethoxysulfate ion; a particularly preferred monomer (a) is acrylamidopropyl-trimethyl-ammonium chloride. As the monomer (b) for these polymers, preferably acrylic acid is used.

Proposed according to the invention, the means may contain in the following embodiment, nonionic polymers (G4).

Preferred nonionic polymers are, for example:

- vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, such as, for example, are sold under the trademarks Luviskol® (BASF). Also preferred nonionic polymers are Luviskol® VA 64 and Luviskol® VA 73, respectively vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers;

cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose, such as, for example, are sold under the trademarks Culminal® and Benecel® (AQUALON) and types Natrosol® (Hercules);

- starches and their derivatives, in particular starch ether, for example Structure® XL (National Starch), multifunctional, salt tolerant starches;

- shellac;

- polyvinylpyrrolidones, such as, for example, are sold under the name Luviskol® (BASF);

- siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water soluble and water insoluble. Both volatile and non-volatile siloxanes are suitable, and non-volatile siloxanes are understood to be those compounds whose boiling point at normal pressure is above 200 ° C. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes, as well as polydialkylsiloxanes, which contain amine and / or hydroxy groups;

- silicones substituted by glycosides.

According to the invention, it is also possible that the compositions used contain several, in particular two, different polymers with the same charge and / or respectively one ionic and one amphoteric and / or non-ionic polymer.

Proposed according to the invention, the means contain polymers (G), preferably in amounts from 0.05 to 10% of the mass. per all means. Especially preferred are amounts from 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3% of the mass.

The following preferred formulations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one UV filter substance. Preferred UV filters according to the invention are not subject to any basic restrictions on their structure and their physical characteristics. On the contrary, all UV filters used in the field of cosmetics are suitable, whose absorption maximum is in the UVA (315-400 nm), UVB (280-315 nm) or UVS (<280 nm) regions. Particularly preferred are filters with a maximum absorption in the UVB region, in particular in the region of from about 280 to about 300 nm.

In the case of UV filtering substances, we are talking about substances that are at room temperature liquid or crystalline, which primarily absorb ultraviolet radiation and again give off the absorbed energy in the form of long-wave radiation, for example heat. There are UVA filters and UVB filters. UVA filters and UVB filters can be used both individually and in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.

According to the invention, the organic UV filters used are selected from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, cinnamic esters, diphenylacrylic esters, benzophenone esters, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazole, symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, monomeric and oligomeric esters of 4,4-diarylbutadienecarboxylic acid and amides of 4,4-diarylbutadienecarboxylic acid, ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, complex x benzalmalonovoy acid esters, benzoxazole, and any mixtures of these components. Organic UV filters can be oil soluble or water soluble. The benzoxazole derivatives are preferably in dissolved form in the cosmetic compositions of the invention. However, if necessary, it can also be preferable if the benzoxazole derivatives are in a pigmented, i.e. insoluble form, for example, with particle sizes from 10 nm to 300 nm. Particularly preferred oil soluble UV filters according to the invention are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propan-1,3-dione (Parsol® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'- isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) 2-octyl ester -benzoic acid, 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid amyl ester, 4-methoxy cinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxy cinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-me isopentyl ester toxicoric acid, 2-cyano-3,3-phenyl-cinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homo-methyl ester (3,3,5-trimethyl -cyclohexyl salicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'- hexyl ester hydroxybenzene) -benzoic acid (also: amino-benzophenone sold under the name Uvinul A Plus from BASF), complex 2- 4-methoxybenzemalonic acid tilhexyl ester bonded to polymers UV filters, for example 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxy siloxane / dimethyl siloxane copolymer with INCI name dimethicodiethylbenzal malonate (CAS No. 207574- 74-1, Parsol® SLX), triazine derivatives such as, for example, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, sold under the name Tinosorb S by CIBA), dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: diethylhexyl butamido triazone, sold called Uvasorb® HEB by Sigma 3V), 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine (ethylhexyltriazone, Uvinul® T 150), 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3,5-triazin-2-yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No. 2725-22-6), 2, 4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine (CAS No. 288254-16- 0, Uvasorb® K2A from 3V Sigma), benzotriazole derivatives 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol [ Tinosorb M (Ciba)], 2,2'-methyl-bis- [6 (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (methyl) -phenol] (MIXXIM BB / 200 from Fairmount Chemical), 2- (2 '-hydroxy-3', 5'-di-tert-amylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No. 02597 3-551), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-octylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No. 003147-75-9), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No. 2440-22 -4), 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- (trimethylsilyl) -oxy] disiloxanyl) propyl] -phenol (CAS No. 155633-54-8) with the name according to INCI drometrizol trisiloxane, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4 -methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine or also aniso-triazine sold as CIBA Tinosorb® S), 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2 -hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazin-on Riya salt, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5 triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine , 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (ethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1,3 5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (1-methylpyrrol-2-yl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2 , 4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-tr azine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2-methylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6 - (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, as well as mixtures of these components.

Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1,4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium, in particular sulfonic acid with INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which is sold, for example, under the trade names Eusolex 232 by Merck or under the name Neo Heliopan Hydro by Symrise, and bis-sodium salt of phenylene-1,4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) - 3.3 ' -5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid with an INCI name disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate (CAS No. 180898-37-7), which is sold, for example, under the trade names Neo Heliopan AR by Symrise, benzophenone-based sulfonic acid derivatives, preferably 2- hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives based on 3-benzylidene camphor, such as, for example, 4- (2-oxo-3-boronylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2- oxo-3-boronilidene) sulfonic acid and its salts with the name according to INCI tereft alidene dicamphora sulfonic acid (CAS No. 90457-82-2 sold under the trade names Mexoryl SX by Chimex).

Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can be used as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. Thus, it is possible to obtain, for example, solutions of the UV-A filter 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propan-1,3-dione (for example, Parsol® 1789) in various UV-B -filters. Therefore, the compositions according to the invention comprise, in various preferred embodiments, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propan-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter selected from 4-methoxy cinnamic acid 2-ethyl-hexyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenyl-cinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexyl salicylate. In these combinations, the mass ratio of the UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2: 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is respectively between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.

In the case of the preferred inorganic light-shielding pigments according to the invention, it is a fine or colloidal metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicon (talc) and barium sulfate. In this case, the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm, and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, the so-called nanopigments. They can be spherical in shape, but particles that have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from a spherical shape can also be used. The pigments can also be surface-treated, i.e. hydrophilized or hydrophobic. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxide, such as, for example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Moreover, silicones are used as a hydrophobic coating agent, especially tri-alkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

Then, the preparations according to the invention also contain plant extracts (L). Typically, these extracts are obtained by extracting the entire plant. However, in some cases, it is also preferable to obtain extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of plants.

According to the invention, especially preferred are extracts from green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hop, henna, chamomile, burdock, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needles, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper , coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadow core, thyme, yarrow, lemon balm, stalnik, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Water, alcohols, and also mixtures thereof can be used as an extracting agent to obtain the named plant extracts. Among the alcohols, lower alcohols are preferred, such as ethanol and isopropanol, in particular, however, polyhydric alcohols, such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both in the form of a single extracting agent and in a mixture with water. Especially suitable are plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1: 10-10: 1. Further particularly preferred extracting agents are cosmetic oils, in particular esters of linear or branched fatty acids having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, with linear or branched fatty alcohols having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, isopropyl palmitate, except hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters and dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate or propylene glycol di (2-these lhexanoate).

According to the invention, plant extracts can be used both in pure form or in dilute form. Since they are used in diluted form, they contain, as a rule, about 2-80% of the mass. active substance and, as a solvent, an extracting agent or a mixture of extracting agents used in their preparation. In addition, it may be preferable to use mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts in the preparations according to the invention.

The following particularly preferred formulations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one penetrating excipient and / or at least one swelling agent (M). These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxy-ethylurea), guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ether, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ether, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols and, in particular, 1,2-diols and 1, omega-diols, such as e.g. 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecandiol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol and 1,4-butanediol.

Preferably according to the invention, additionally short-chain carboxylic acids (N) can contribute to a complex of active substances (A) from at least one apolar component and at least one protein-complex microelement from the group Zn, Mg, Cu, Mn, Si, K, Fe. Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives according to the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids, which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight or branched, or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750. According to the invention, saturated may be preferred or straight chain unsaturated or branched carboxylic acids with chain lengths from 1 to 16 carbon atoms in the chain, highly preferably those with chain lengths from 1 to 12 carbon atoms in a chain.

According to the invention, short chain carboxylic acids can have one, three or more carboxy groups. According to the invention, carboxylic acids with several carboxy groups, in particular dicarboxylic acids and tricarboxylic acids, are preferred. Carboxy groups may be fully or partially present in the form of esters, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazine, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxim, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate esters. The carboxylic acids of the invention can, of course, be substituted along the carbon chain or ring skeleton. The substituents of the carboxylic acids proposed according to the invention include, for example, alkyl groups having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, alkenyl having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyalkyl having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, hydroxyalkenyl having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, aminomethyl, aminoalkyl having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino. Preferred substituents are alkyl groups having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, amino and carboxyl. Particularly preferred are substituents at position α. Highly preferred substituents are hydroxy, alkoxy and amino groups, the amino function optionally being substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals. In addition, phosphonic or phosphate esters are also preferred carboxylic acid derivatives.

Examples of carboxylic acids according to the invention are formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valerianic acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyceric acid , adipic acid, pimelic acid, cork acid, azelaic acid, sebazinic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid, elai other acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o, m, p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, toluic acid, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid , nicotinic acid, biocarbamic acid, 4,4'-dicyano-6,6'-binicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1,2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrole carboxylic acid, 1,2,4,6,7 naphthalene pentaacetic acid, malondaldehyde acid, 4-g hydroxyphthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propantricarboxylic acid, dicarboxylic acid selected from the group which is formed due to compounds of the general formula (N-I)

in which Z is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having from 4 to 12 carbon atoms, n is a number from 4 to 12, and one of both X and Y is a COOH group and the other is hydrogen or a methyl or ethyl residue, dicarboxylic acids of general formula (NI), which additionally have 1 to 3 more methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring, as well as dicarboxylic acids, which arise from dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI) formally by attaching a water molecule to a double bond in cyclohexenes m ring. Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) are known in the literature. Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) can be obtained, for example, by reacting multiply unsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids by Diels-Alder cyclization. As a rule, multiply unsaturated fatty acids are used as components of dicarboxylic acids. Linoleic acid, available from natural fats and oils, is preferred. As components of monocarboxylic acids, in particular, acrylic acid is preferred, but also, for example, methacrylic acid and crotonic acid. As a rule, Diels-Alder reactions produce isomeric mixtures in which the components are in excess. According to the invention, these isomeric mixtures can also be used as pure compounds.

According to the invention, used along with the preferred dicarboxylic acids according to the formula (NI) are also those dicarboxylic acids which differ from compounds of the formula (NI) from 1 to 3 by methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or are formed from these compounds formally by attaching one water molecule to double bond ring cyclohexene.

According to the invention, a mixture of dicarboxylic acids, which arises by converting linoleic acid with acrylic acid, is particularly effective. This is a mixture of 5-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid. Such compounds are commercially available under the names Westvaco Diacid® 1550 and Westvaco Diacid® 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).

Along with the previously, for example, short-chain carboxylic acids given according to the invention, their physiologically acceptable salts can also be used. Examples of such salts are salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, zinc salts, and also ammonium salts, which in the framework of the proposed invention also include salts of monoethylammonium, diethylammonium and triethylammonium, monohydroxyethylammonium, dihydroxyethylammonium and trihydroxyethylammonium. Highly preferred in the framework of this invention are, however, acids that are neutralized with alkali-interacting amino acids, such as, for example, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine. In addition, from the bases of the formulation, it may be preferable if the carboxylic acids are selected from water soluble representatives, in particular water soluble salts.

Furthermore, according to the invention is preferably used gidroksiarbonovye acid and thus again, in particular, dihydroxycarboxylic acid trigidroksikarbonovye acids and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids and digidroksidikarbonovye acid trigidroksidikarbonovye acid poligidroksidikarbonovye acid digidroksitrikarbonovye acid trigidroksitrikarbonovye acid poligidroksitrikarbonovye acid digidroksipolikarbonovye acid trigidroksipolikarbonovye acids and polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids in place with the active substance (A). It turns out that, along with hydroxycarboxylic acids, esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids, both mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters, and polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can also be highly preferred. Preferred esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids are, for example, a complete ester of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. The following, in principle, suitable esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucus acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, namely, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. Moreover, esters of fatty alcohols having from 12 to 15 carbon atoms are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, for example, under the trademarks Cosmacol® from EniChem, Augusta Industriale. Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polyvinic acid, as well as their esters.

In addition, it turns out that the effect of the agents according to the invention can be enhanced if they contain esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids. Preferred esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids are the full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Furthermore, in principle, suitable esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucous acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, namely, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. Moreover, esters of fatty alcohols having from 12 to 15 carbon atoms are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, for example, under the trademarks Cosmacol® from EniChem, Augusta Industriale.

The applied amount of esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids is from 0.1 to 15% of the mass. calculated on the tool, preferably from 0.1 to 10% of the mass. and highly preferably from 0.1 to 5% of the mass.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention further comprise at least one solid, in particular at least one solid in nanoparticulate form. Such a nanoparticle solid is, for example, nanoparticle hydrogenated castor oil. Meanwhile, the average nanoparticle size is at about 100 nm or less per particle diameter.

According to the invention, particularly preferred cosmetic compositions further comprise silicone (s). Here, the particularly preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain silicone (s), preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 50% by weight (primarily, but not exclusively in deodorant or antiperspirant formulations), particularly preferably from 0 , 2 to 10 wt. -%, preferably from 0.25 to 7% of the mass. and, in particular, from 0.5 to 5% of the mass. accordingly, based on all means.

In particular, cosmetic compositions according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone which is selected from:

(i) polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylacrylosiloxanes that are volatile or non-volatile, straight, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or non-crosslinked;

(ii) polysiloxanes, which in their general structure contain one or more organofunctional groups, which are selected from

a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups;

b) (per) fluorinated groups;

c) thiol groups;

d) carboxylate groups;

e) hydroxylated groups;

f) alkoxylated groups;

g) acyloxyalkyl groups;

h) amphoteric groups;

i) bisulfite groups;

j) hydroxyacylamino groups;

k) carboxy groups;

l) sulfonic acid groups; and

m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups;

(iii) a block copolymer of linear polysiloxane of (A) -polyoxyalkylene (B) type (A-B) _n , where n>3;

(iv) grafted silicone polymers with silicone, an organic skeleton, which consists of an organic backbone, which is formed from organic monomers that do not contain silicone, on which in the chain, and, if necessary, at least one end chains inoculate at least one polysiloxane macromer;

(v) grafted silicone polymers with a polysiloxane backbone onto which silicone-free organic monomers are grafted, which have a polysiloxane backbone onto which at least one of its ends is grafted at least one organic macromer that does not contain silicone;

(vi) or mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of formula 1

,

,

in which x means a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, further preferably from 0 to 20 and, in particular, from 0 to 10.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain silicone of the above formula I. These silicones are designated according to INCI nomenclature as dimethicones. In the framework of the invention, the compounds of:

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₃ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₄ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₅ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₇ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₈ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₉ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₀ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₁ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₃ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₄ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₅ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₇ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₈ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₉ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂₀ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

particularly preferred are (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ and / or (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ .

Of course, the agents according to the invention may also contain mixtures of the above silicones.

The preferred silicones used according to the invention have viscosities from 0.2 to 2 mm ² s ^-1 at a temperature of 20 ° C, and silicones with viscosities from 0.5 to 1 mm ² s ^-1 are particularly preferred.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention comprise one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones can be described, for example, through the formula

M (R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2) x} (R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2) y} M,

Moreover, in the above formula, R means a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon residue having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q means a polar residue of the general formula —R ¹ HZ, R ¹ means a diatomic bonded group that is bonded to a hydrogen atom and the Z moiety is composed of atoms carbon and hydrogen, carbon atoms, hydrogen and oxygen, or carbon atoms, hydrogen and nitrogen, and Z means an organic amino-functional residue that contains at least one amino-functional group; “A” takes values in the range from about 0 to about 2, “b” takes values in the range from about 1 to about 3, “a” + “b” is less than or equal to 3, and “c” means a number in the range from from about 1 to about 3, and x means a number in the range from 1 to about 2000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y means a number in the range from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1000, and M means suitable ends w silicone group such as is known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of residues represented by R include alkyl residues such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl residues such as vinyl, halogenvinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, halogenallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl residues such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl residues, benzyl residues, halocarbon residues such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorphenyl and the like, as well as sulfur-containing residues such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptohexyl like; preferably R is an alkyl residue which contains from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, —CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ , phenylene, naphthylene, —CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ , —CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ -, —OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C ₆ N ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ - and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ .

Z is an organic amino functional residue containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _z NH ₂ in which z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _zz NH, in which both z and zz are independently 1 or more, the structure including a diamino ring structure such as piperazinyl. Most preferably, Z is the residue —NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ . The following possible formula for Z is —NH (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NX ₂ or —NX ₂ in which each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups having from 1 to 12 atoms carbon, and zz is 0.

Q most preferably means a polar amino functional residue of the formula —CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ . In the formulas, “a” takes values in the range from about 0 to about 2, “b” takes values in the range from about 2 to about 3, “a” + “b” is less than or equal to 3, and “c” means a number in ranges from about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of the elements R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2} to the elements is in the range from about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. if one or more silicones of the above formula are used, then various variable substituents in the above formula may be distinguished for the various silicone components that are present in the silicone mixture.

Preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise an amino functional silicone of formula (II)

,

,

wherein

G is hydrogen, a phenyl group, —OH, —O — CH ₃ , —CH ₃ , —O — CH ₂ CH ₃ , —CH ₂ CH ₃ , —O — CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , —CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ ;

- a means a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;

- b means a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,

- m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, and n preferably takes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000 in particular from 1 to 10,

- R 'is a monovalent residue selected from

- -QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R") ₂

- -QN (R ") ₂

- -QN ⁺ (R ”) ₃ A ^-

- -QN ⁺ H (R ”) ₂ A ^-

- -QN ⁺ H ₂ (R ”) ₂ A ^-

- -QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R" H ₂ A ^- .

wherein each Q means a chemical bond, —CH ₂ -, —CH ₂ —CH ₂ -, —CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, —C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, —CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, - CH ₂ C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, —CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₂ -, R ″ means the same or different residues from the group of hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, —CH ₂ —CH ₂ (CH ₃ ) Ph, alkyl radicals having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably —CH ₃ , —CH ₂ CH ₃ , —CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , —CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , —CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , —CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , —CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , —C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , and A is an anion which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino functional silicone of the formula (IIa)

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, and n preferably takes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10. These silicones are designated as trimethylsilylamidimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Especially preferred are cosmetic compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino functional silicone of formula (IIb)

in which R is —OH, —O — CH ₃ , or a —CH ₃ group, and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, wherein the sum (n1 + n2) preferably takes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10. These silicones are designated as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are used, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are preferred which contain an amino-functional silicone, whose amines are higher than 0.25 meq / g, preferably higher than 0.2 meq / g and in particular higher than 0.4 meq / g The number of amines means milli-equivalent of amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. They can be determined by titration and also indicated in the element mg KOH / g.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.25 to 7.5% by weight. and in particular from 0.5 to 5% of the mass. amino functional silicone (s).

Also preferred according to the invention are cyclic dimethicones, designated according to INCI as cyclomethicones. Here preferred are cosmetic compositions according to the invention which contain at least one silicone of formula III

in which x means a number from 4 to 200, preferably from 5 to 10, further preferably from 6 to 7 and, in particular, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9.

The silicones described above have a base which is constructed of -Si-O-Si elements. Of course, these -Si-O-Si elements can also be interrupted through the carbon chain. Appropriate molecules are available through chain extension reactions and are preferably used in the form of emulsions of silicone in water. The data used according to the invention for the use of silicone in water emulsions can be obtained in a known manner, as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,998,537. Summarizing, this preparation method comprises an emulsifying mixture of components, which one contains at least one polysiloxane, which the other contains at least at least one organosilicon material that interacts with polysiloxane in a chain extension reaction, wherein at least one catalyst containing a metal ion is added to the chain extension reaction of at least about but the surfactant, and water.

Chain extension reactions with polysiloxanes are known and may include, for example, a hydrosilylation reaction in which one Si-H group reacts with an aliphatic unsaturated group in the presence of a platinum / rhodium catalyst to form polysiloxanes with individual Si- (C) _p- Si bonds, with polysiloxanes also referred to as polysiloxane-polysilalkylene copolymers.

The chain extension reaction may also include the reaction of a Si — OH group (e.g., polysiloxane, terminated hydroxy) with an alkoxy group (e.g., alkoxysilanes, silicates or alkoxysiloxanes) in the presence of a metal-containing catalyst to form polysiloxanes.

The polysiloxanes that are used in the chain extension reaction include an essential linear polymer of the following structure:

R-Si (R ₂ ) - [- O-Si (R ₂ ) -] _n -O-SiR ₃

In this structure, each R independently of one another means a hydrocarbon residue having up to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as, for example, an alkyl group (e.g. methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl), an aryl group (e.g. , phenyl), or groups necessary for a chain extension reaction (“reactive groups”, for example, hydrogen atoms, Si bonded, aliphatic unsaturated groups, such as vinyl, allyl or hexenyl, hydroxy, alkoxy, such as methoxy, ethoxy or propoxy, alkoxy alkoxy, acetoxy, amino, etc.), provided that on average one to two reactive groups per polymer are represented, n means a positive number> 1. Preferred is the plurality of reactive groups, particularly preferably> 90%, and in particular> 98% of reactive groups on which the terminal Si atoms are bonded in siloxane. Preferably, n is a number that describes polysiloxanes that have viscosities between 1 and 1,000,000 mm ² / s, particularly preferably viscosities between 1,000 and 100,000 mm ² / s.

Polysiloxanes can be branched to an insignificant degree (for example, <2% by weight of siloxane elements), however polymers are preferred however substantially linear, particularly preferably completely linear. In addition, the substituents R can be substituted, for example, with N-containing groups (for example, amino groups), epoxy groups, S-containing groups, Si-containing groups, O-containing groups, etc. Preferably, at least 80% of the R moieties are alkyl moieties, particularly preferably methyl groups.

The organosilicon material that interacts with polysiloxane in a chain extension reaction may be either a second polysiloxane or a molecule that interacts as a chain extender. If the organosilicon material is polysiloxane, then it has the above basic structure. In these cases, the polysiloxane occupies in the reaction (at least) one reactive group and the second polysiloxane occupies (at least) the second reactive group, which interacts with the first.

If the organosilicon material includes a chain extender, the material may be, for example, silane, siloxane (e.g. disiloxane or trisiloxane) or silazane. Thus, it is possible to carry out a chain extension reaction, for example of a composition that includes polysiloxane according to the above basic structure, which has at least one Si-OH group, by reacting with alkoxysilane (for example, dialkoxysilane or trialkoxysilane) in the presence of tin-containing or titanium-containing catalysts.

Metal-containing catalysts in chain extension reactions are predominantly specific for a particular reaction. Such catalysts are known in the art and contain, for example, metals such as platinum, rhodium, tin, titanium, copper, lead, etc. In a preferred chain extension reaction, a polysiloxane with at least one aliphatic unsaturated group, preferably an end group, is converted to an organosilicon material in the presence of a hydrosilylation catalyst, which is a siloxane or polysiloxane with at least one (preferably end) Si group -H. Polysiloxane has at least one aliphatic unsaturated group and satisfies the general formula above, in which R and n are as defined above, with an average of between 1 and 2 R groups having one aliphatic group per polymer. Represented aliphatic unsaturated groups are, for example, vinyl, allyl, hexenyl and cyclohexenyl or the group R ² CH = CHR ³ , in which R ² is a divalent aliphatic chain bonded on silicon and R ³ is a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group. The organosilicon material with at least one Si-H group preferably has the above structure, in which R and n are as defined above, and on average, between 1 and 2 R groups represent a hydrogen atom and n is 0 or a positive integer . This material may be a polymer or a low molecular weight material such as siloxane (e.g., disiloxane or trisiloxane).

A polysiloxane with at least one aliphatic unsaturated group and an organosilicon material with at least one Si — H group are converted in the presence of hydrosilylation catalysts. Such catalysts are known in the art and include, for example, materials containing platinum and rhodium. The catalysts can take every known form, for example platinum or rhodium, supported on carriers (such as, for example, silica gel or activated carbon) or other suitable formulations, such as platinum chloride, platinum or chloroplatinic acid salts. The preferred catalyst due to good dispersibility in organosilicon systems and slight color changes is chloroplatinic acid, either as a commercially available hexahydrate or in anhydrous form.

In the following preferred chain expansion reaction, the polysiloxane is reacted with at least one Si — OH group, preferably an end group, with an organosilicon material that has at least one alkoxy group, preferably a siloxane with at least one Si-OR group, or alkoxysilane with at least two alkoxy groups. In this case, a metal-containing catalyst is used as a catalyst.

In addition, silicone in water emulsions preferably contain at least one surfactant.

Preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are also characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of formula IV

in which R means the same or different residues from the group of hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, —CH ₂ —CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, alkyl radicals having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably —CH ₃ , —CH ₂ CH ₃ , - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , —CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , —CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , —CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , —CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , —C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , and x or y means a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, further preferably from 0 to 7 and, in particular, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n means a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8, and in particular 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

Preferably, the silicones are soluble in water. According to the invention, preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that they further comprise a water-soluble silicone.

The cosmetics according to the invention can also be formulated as hair dyes. The term “dyeing process” includes all methods known to the person skilled in the art, in which dye is applied to moistened hair if necessary and left on the hair or for a period of time between several minutes and about 45 and then washed off with water or with a surfactant-containing agent or completely left on the hair.

As already mentioned above in the framework of the proposed invention, it is possible to introduce esters of silicic acids based on hexenyl or cinnamic alcohol directly into a dye or tinting agent. The composition of the dye or tinting agent is not subject to any fundamental restrictions.

As dyes (starting products), you can apply

- starting products of oxidative dyes such as developing components and color-forming components,

- natural or synthetic substantive dyes and

- primary stages similar to natural dyes, such as derivatives of indole and indoline,

as well as mixtures of representatives of one or more of such groups.

Conventional hair dyeing agents typically consist of at least one developing component and at least one color-forming substance and, if necessary, also contain substantial dyes (= hair dye) as tinting agents. Developing components and color-forming components are also referred to as starting products of oxidative dyes.

As developing components, as a rule, primary aromatic amines are used with the following free or substituted hydroxy or amino groups, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazone derivatives of 4-aminopyrazolone, and 2,4,5 6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives.

Special representatives are, for example, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluene diamine, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, p-aminophenol, N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5 -diaminophenyl) ethanol, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1-phenyl-3-carboxyamido-4-amino-pyrazol-5-one, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4- aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triamino-4-hydroxypyrimidine.

As color-forming components, m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones, m-aminophenols and substituted pyridine derivatives are generally used. Suitable color-forming substances are, in particular, α-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthaline, 2-amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether , m-phenylenediamine, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -anisole (Lehmanns Blau), 1-phenyl-3-methyl-pyrazol-5-one, 2,4-dichloro-3 -aminophenol, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methyl-resorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 3 amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine n

As already mentioned, the agents according to the invention may contain one or more dye starting materials. Preferred are the agents according to the invention which contain at least one starting material of oxidizing dyes of the type of developing components and, if necessary, at least one starting material of oxidizing dyes of the type of color-forming components.

The proposed invention is not subject to any restrictions on the starting products of dyes used in the proposed according to the invention means. Proposed according to the invention means may contain as the following starting products of dyes

- starting products of oxidative dyes such as developing components and / or color-forming components and

- primary stages similar to natural dyes, such as

- derivatives of indole and indoline,

as well as mixtures of representatives of these groups.

In a first preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention comprise at least one developing component. Primary aromatic amines with one of the following free or substituted hydroxy or amino groups, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives, as well as 2,4,5, are usually used as developing components, as a rule. 6-tetraaminopyridine and its derivatives.

According to the invention, a p-phenylenediamine derivative or physiologically acceptable salts thereof may be preferably used as developing components. Particularly preferred are a p-phenylenediamine derivative of the formula (E1)

moreover

- G ¹ means a hydrogen atom, an alkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a monohydroxyalkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a polyhydroxyalkyl residue having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an alkoxyalkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the part of alkoxy and alkyl, a 4'-aminophenyl residue or an alkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms which is substituted with a nitrogen-containing group, a phenyl or 4'-aminophenyl residue;

- G ² means a hydrogen atom, an alkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a monohydroxyalkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a polyhydroxyalkyl residue having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an alkoxyalkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the part of alkoxy and alkyl, or an alkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which is substituted by a nitrogen-containing group;

- G ³ means a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as a chlorine, bromine, iodine or fluorine atom, an alkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a monohydroxyalkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a polyhydroxyalkyl residue having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkoxy residue having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, an acetylaminoalkoxy residue having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a mesylaminoalkoxy residue having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a carbamoylaminoalkoxy residue having 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

- G ⁴ means a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom or an alkyl atom having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or

- if G ³ and G ⁴ are in the ortho position to each other, they can together form a linked α, -alkylene dioxo group, such as, for example, an ethylenedioxy group.

Examples of alkyl radicals having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms designated as substituents in the compounds of the invention are methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl and butyl groups. Ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals. According to the invention, preferred alkoxy residues having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms are, for example, a methoxy or ethoxy group. In addition, hydroxymethyl, 2-hydroxyethyl, 3-hydroxypropyl or 4-hydroxybutyl groups may be mentioned as preferred examples of hydroxyalkyl groups having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred. A particularly preferred group of polyhydroxyalkyl having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms is the 1,2-dihydroxyethyl group. Examples of halogen atoms are, according to the invention, fluorine, chlorine or bromine atoms, chlorine atoms are highly preferred. Further, the applicable concepts according to the invention are diverted from the definitions indicated here. Examples of nitrogen-containing groups of the formula (E1) are, in particular, amino groups, monoalkylamino groups having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, dialkylamino groups having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, trialkylammonium groups having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, monohydroxyalkylamino groups, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, imidazolinium and ammonium.

Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamines of formula (E1) are selected from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluene diamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6 -diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-N-dipropyl-p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino -3-methyl- (N, N-diethyl) -aniline, N, N-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-chloroaniline, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenyldiamine, 2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -p-p nylenediamine, 2-fluoro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (β-hydroxypropyl) p-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3-methyl-p- phenylenediamine, N, N- (ethyl, β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (β, γ-dihydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p -phenylenediamine, 2- (β-hydroxyethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (β-acetylamino-ethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (β-methoxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine and 5,8-diaminobenzo-1,4-dioxane , as well as their physiologically acceptable salts.

According to the invention, highly preferred derivatives of p-phenylenediamine of formula (E1) are p-toluylene diamine, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine and N, N-bis - (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine.

In addition, according to the invention, it may be preferable to use, as developing components, compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups.

Under the binuclear developing components, which according to the invention can be used in the proposed according to the invention means, we can name, in particular, compounds that correspond to the following formula (E2), as well as their physiologically acceptable salts:

moreover:

- Z ¹ and Z ² independently from each other mean a hydroxyl or NH ₂ residue, which is optionally substituted with an alkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a hydroxy alkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and / or a compound Y or, which, if necessary, is part of a connected ring system;

- compound Y means an alkylene group having from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a linear or branched alkylene chain or an alkylene ring that may be interrupted or terminated by one or more nitrogen-containing groups and / or one or more heteroatoms, such as atoms oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen and can be arbitrarily substituted by one or more hydroxyl or alkoxy residues having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, or a direct bond,

- G ⁵ and G ⁶ independently from each other mean a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a monohydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a polyhydroxyalkyl radical having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an aminoalkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a direct bond for compound Y,

- G ⁷ , G ⁸ , G ⁹ , G ¹⁰ , G ¹¹ and G ¹² independently of each other mean a hydrogen atom, a direct bond for compound Y or the remainder of the alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

provided that

- compounds of formula (E2) contain only one compound Y per molecule and

- compounds of formula (E2) contain at least one amino group which carries at least one hydrogen atom.

The substituents used in the formula (E2) according to the invention are determined similarly to the above-described implementations.

Preferred binuclear developing components of the formula (E2) are, in particular: N, N'-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2- ol, N, N'-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N ' -bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) -tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- (4-methylaminophenyl) -tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-diethyl-N, N ' bis- (4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, bis- (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) propan-2-ol , N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane, N, N'-bis- (2-hydro xi-5-aminobenzyl) piperazine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine and 1,10-bis- (2 ', 5'-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Highly preferred binuclear developing components of formula (E2) are N, N'-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol , bis- (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) -1 , 4-diazacycloheptane and 1,10-bis- (2 ', 5'-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane or their physiologically acceptable salts.

Furthermore, according to the invention, a p-aminophenol derivative or physiologically acceptable salts thereof may be preferably used as developing components. Particularly preferred are p-aminophenol derivatives of formula (E3)

moreover:

- G ¹³ means a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, an alkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a monohydroxyalkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a polyhydroxyalkyl residue having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an alkoxyalkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the part of alkoxy and alkyl, an aminoalkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkylamino residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkylamino part, a hydroxyalkoxy residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkylaminoalkyl residue having from 1 up to 4 carbon atoms per parts of hydroxyalkyl and aminoalkyl or a dialkylaminoalkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms in parts of alkylamino and alkyl,

- G ¹⁴ means a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom, an alkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a monohydroxyalkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a polyhydroxyalkyl residue having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an alkoxyalkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the part of alkoxy and alkyl, an aminoalkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a cyanoalkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

- G ¹⁵ means a hydrogen atom, an alkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a monohydroxyalkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a polyhydroxyalkyl residue having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, a phenyl residue or a benzyl residue, and

- G ¹⁶ means a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom.

The substituents used in the formula (E3) according to the invention are determined similarly to the above-described implementations.

Preferred p-aminophenols of the formula (E3) are, in particular, p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methyl-phenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (☐-hydroxyethoxy) phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino -2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (β-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) -phenol, 4-amino-2- (a, β-dihydroxyethyl) -phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, 4-amino-2-chlorophenol , 4-amino-2,6-dichlorophenol, 4-amino-2- (diethyl-aminomethyl) -phenol, as well as their physiological mlemye salt.

Particularly preferred compounds of formula (E3) are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino 2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol.

In addition, the developing components are selected from heterocyclic developing components, such as, for example, derivatives of pyridine, pyrimidine, pyrazole, pyrazole-pyrimidine and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Preferred pyridine derivatives are, in particular, compounds 2,5-diamino-pyridine, 2- (4'-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-amino-pyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2- (β- methoxyethyl) amino-3-amino-6-methoxy-pyridine and 3,4-diamino-pyridine.

Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are, in particular, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5, 6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.

Preferred pyrazole derivatives are, in particular, 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) -pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (4 '-chlorobenzyl) -pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino -1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert -butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) -3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3 - (4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diam o-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1- isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5- (☐-aminoethyl) amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl -4-methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-1-methylpyrazole.

Preferred pyrazole-pyrimidine derivatives are, in particular, pyrazole- [1,5-a] pyrimidine derivatives of the following formula (E4) and its tautomeric forms, since there is a tautomeric equilibrium:

moreover:

- G ¹⁷ , G ¹⁸ , G ¹⁹ and G ²⁰ independently represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, an aryl residue, a hydroxyalkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a polyhydroxyalkyl residue having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an alkoxyalkyl residue having 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkoxy and alkyl part, an aminoalkyl residue having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which, if necessary, can be protected by an acetylureide or sulfonyl residue, an alkylaminoalkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms in part alkylamino and alkyl, di-alkyl-aminoalkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the part of alkyl and aminoalkyl, and the dialkyl residues, if necessary, form a carbon cycle or heterocycle having 5 or 6 chain members, a hydroxyalkyl residue having from 1 to 4 atoms carbon, or a residue of di-hydroxyalkylaminoalkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms in part of hydroxyalkyl and aminoalkyl,

- X residues independently of one another mean a hydrogen atom, an alkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, an aryl residue, a hydroxyalkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a polyhydroxyalkyl residue having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an aminoalkyl residue, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, an alkylaminoalkyl residue having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the part of alkylamino and alkyl, di-alkyl-aminoalkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the part of alkyl and aminoalkyl, and the dialkyl radicals optionally form carbon cycle or hetero an ikl having 5 or 6 chain members, a hydroxyalkyl residue having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a di-hydroxyalkyl-aminoalkyl residue having 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the part of hydroxyalkyl and aminoalkyl, a halogen atom, a carboxylic acid group or a sulfonic group acids

- i has the value 0, 1, 2 or 3,

- p has a value of 0 or 1,

- q is 0 or 1 and

- n is 0 or 1,

provided that

- the sum of p + q is not equal to 0,

- if p + q is 2, n has the value 0 and the groups NG ¹⁷ G ¹⁸ and NG ¹⁹ G ²⁰ occupy positions (2,3); (5.6); (6.7); (3.5) or (3.7);

- if p + q is 1, n has the value 1 and the groups NG ¹⁷ G ¹⁸ (or NG ¹⁹ G ²⁰ ) and the OH group occupy positions (2,3); (5.6); (6.7); (3.5) or (3.7).

The substituents used in the formula (E4) according to the invention are determined similarly to the above-described implementations.

If the pyrazole- [1,5-a] pyrimidine of the above formula (E4) contains a hydroxy group at position 2, 5 or 7 of the ring system, a tautomeric equilibrium arises, which is represented, for example, by the following scheme:

Of the pyrazole- [1,5-a] pyrimidines of the above formula (E4), it is possible to name, in particular:

- pyrazole- [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3,7-diamine;

- 2,5-dimethyl-pyrazole- [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3,7-diamine;

- pyrazole- [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine;

- 2,7-dimethyl-pyrazole- [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3,5-diamine;

- 3-aminopyrazole- [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ol;

- 3-aminopyrazole- [1,5-a] pyrimidin-5-ol;

- 2- (3-aminopyrazole- [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ylamino) ethanol;

- 2- (7-aminopyrazole- [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-ylamino) ethanol;

- 2 - [(3-aminopyrazol- [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol;

- 2 - [(7-aminopyrazol- [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol;

5,6-dimethylpyrazole- [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3,7-diamine;

- 2,6-dimethylpyrazole- [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3,7-diamine;

- 3-amino-7-dimethylamino-2,5-dimethylpyrazole- [1,5-a] pyrimidine;

as well as their physiologically acceptable salts and their tautomeric forms, if tautomeric equilibrium exists.

Pyrazole- [1,5-a] pyrimidines of the above formula (E4) can be prepared starting from aminopyrazole or hydrazine by cyclization as described in the literature.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention comprise at least one color-forming component.

As color-forming components, m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are generally used. Suitable color-forming components are, in particular, 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, simple resorcinol-methyl ether, m-phenylenediamine, 1-phenyl-3-methyl-pyrazolone-5,2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 1,3-bis- (2 ', 4'-diaminophenoxy) propane, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol and 2-methyl-4-chloro-5-aminophenol.

According to the invention, preferred color-forming components are

m-aminophenol and its derivatives, such as, for example, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2, 6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'- hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) benzene, 3-ethylamino-4-methylphenol and 2,4- dichloro-3-aminophenol,

- o-aminophenol and its derivatives,

- m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives, such as, for example, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 1,3-bis- (2 ', 4'-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2' -hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1,3-bis- (2 ', 4'-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene and 1-amino-3-bis- (2 '-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene,

- o-diaminobenzene and its derivatives, such as, for example, 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-1-methylbenzene,

derivatives of dihydroxybenzene or trihydroxybenzene, such as, for example, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene,

pyridine derivatives, such as, for example, 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2.6 -dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine,

naphthalene derivatives, such as, for example, 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1 7-dihydroxy-naphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxy-naphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxy-naphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxy-naphthalene,

derivatives of morpholine, such as, for example, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-amino-benzomorpholine,

quinoxaline derivatives, such as, for example, 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline,

pyrazole derivatives, such as, for example, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,

derivatives of indole, such as, for example, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole,

pyrimidine derivatives, such as, for example, 4,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidine, 2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-amino-4-methylpyrimidine , 2-amino-4-hydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine and 4,6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidine or

derivatives of methylenedioxybenzene, such as, for example, 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene.

Particularly preferred color-forming components according to the invention are 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol , 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.

Indols and indolines which have at least one hydroxyamino group, preferably as a substituent at the sixth ring, are preferably used as the primary stages of analogous to natural dyes. These groups may have the following substituents, for example, in the form of esterification or transesterification of hydroxy groups or alkylation of an amino group. In a second preferred embodiment, the agents comprise at least one derivative of indole and / or indoline.

Derivatives of 5,6-dihydroxyindoline of the formula (IIIa) are particularly well suited for the primary stages of similar to natural hair dyes.

in which independently of each other

- R ¹ means hydrogen, an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

- R ² means hydrogen or a group-COOH, and the group-COOH may also be present in the form of a salt with a physiologically acceptable cation,

- R ³ means hydrogen, an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

- R ⁴ means hydrogen, an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a —CO-R ⁶ group in which R ⁶ means an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and

- R ⁵ means a group named under R ⁴ ,

as well as physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.

Particularly preferred indoline derivatives are 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline , 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, as well as 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline.

Especially noted within this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and, in particular, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline.

In addition, derivatives of 5,6-dihydroxyindole of the formula (IIIb) are extremely suitable as the primary stages of analogous to natural hair dyes.

in which independently of each other

- R ¹ means hydrogen, an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

- R ² means hydrogen or a group-COOH, and the group-COOH may also be present in the form of a salt with a physiologically acceptable cation,

- R ³ means hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

- R ⁴ means hydrogen, an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a —CO — R ⁶ group in which R ⁶ means an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

- R ⁵ means a group named under R ⁴ ,

as well as physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.

Particularly preferred indole derivatives are 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole , 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, as well as 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.

Derivatives of indoline and indole can be used in the methods used according to the invention both in the form of free bases and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts with inorganic or organic acids, for example hydrochlorides, sulfates and hydrobromides. Proposed according to the invention, the means contain derivatives of indole or indoline, as a rule, in amounts from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight.

In a further embodiment according to the invention, it may be preferable to use an indoline or indole derivative in hair coloring agents in combination with at least one amino acid or one oligopeptide. The amino acid is preferably an o-amino acid; highly preferred amino acids are arginine, ornithine, lysine, series and histidine, in particular arginine.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one dye precursor from the group of aromatic and heteroaromatic diamines, aminophenols, naphthols, polyphenols, CH-acid color-forming components and their derivatives in amounts from 0.01 to 25% by weight ., preferably from 0.5 to 10% of the mass., in particular from 1 to 5% of the mass. accordingly, based on all means.

In addition to the primary product (s) of oxidative dyes, the tint composition (A) may contain one or more substantial dyes. Substantive dyes are, as a rule, nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Preferred substantive dyes are compounds known by international designation or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, Acid Orange 7, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1 and Acid Black 52, as well as 1 , 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (β-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2 - (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro -2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3 , 4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picraminic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino 1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.

Corresponding to the proposed according to the invention means, which are characterized in that they contain at least one substantive dye from the group of cationic (basic) dyes, preferably Basic Blue 6, C.I. No. 51175; Basic Blue 7, C.I. No. 42595; Basic Blue 9, C.I. No. 52015; Basic Blue 26, C.I. No. 4,4455; Basic Blue 41, C.I. No. 11154; Basic Blue 99, C.I. No. 56059; Basic Brown 4, C.I. No. 21010; Basic Brown 16, C.I. No. 12250; Basic Brown 17, C.I. No. 122510; Basic Green 1, C.I. No. 42040; Basic Orange 31; Basic Red 2, C.I. No. 50240; Basic Red 22, C.I. No. 11055; Basic Red 46; Basic Red 51; Basic Red 76, C.I. No. 12245; Basic Violet 1, C.I. No. 42535; Basic Violet 2; Basic Violet 3, C.I. No. 42555; Basic Violet 10, C.I. No. 45170; Basic Violet 14, C.I. No. 42510; Basic Yellow 57, C.I. No. 12719; Basic Yellow 87 and / or anionic (acidic) dyes and / or nonionic dyes, preferably Acid Black 1, C.I. No. 20470; Acid Black 52; Acid Blue 7; Acid Blue 7; Acid Blue 9, C.I. No. 42090; Acid Blue 74, C.I. No. 73015; Acid Red 18, C.I. No. 16255; Acid Red 23; Acid Red 27, C.I. No. 16185; Acid Red 33; Acid Red 52; Acid Red 87, C.I. No. 45380; Acid Red 92, C.I. No. 45410; Acid Orange 3; Acid Orange 7; Acid Violet 43, C.I. No. 60730; Acid Yellow 1, C.I. No. 10316; Acid Yellow 10; Acid Yellow 23, C.I. No. 19140; Acid Yellow 3, C.I. No. 47005; Acid Yellow 36; D & C Brown No. 1, C.I. No. 2017 (Acid Orange 24); D & C Green No. 5, C.I. No. 61570 (Acid Green G); D & C Orange No. 4, C.I. No. 15510 (Acid Orange II); D & C Orange No. 10, C.I. No. 45425: 1 (Solvent Red 73); D & C Orange No. 11, C.I. No. 45425 (Acid Red 95); D & C Red No. 21, C.I. No. 45380: 2 (Solvent Red 43); D & C Red No. 27, C.I. No. 45410: 1 (Solvent Red 48); D & C Red No. 33, C.I. No. 17200 (Acid Red 2A, Acid Red B); D & C Yellow No. 7, C.I. No. 45350: 1 (Solvent Yellow 94); D & C Yellow No. 8, C.I. No. 45350 (Acid Yellow 73); FD & C Red No. 4, C.I. No. 14,700 (Food Red 4); FD & C Yellow No. 6, C.I. No. 15985 (Food Yellow 3); Food Green 3; pigment Red 57-1; Disperse Black 9, Disperse Blue 1; Disperse Blue 3; Disperse Violet 1; Disperse Violet 4; HC Orange 1; NS Red 1; NS Red 3; NS Red 13; NS Yellow 2; NS Yellow 4; sodium picramate; 1,4-bis- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine; HC Yellow 5; HC Blue 2; HC Blue 12; 4-amino-3-nitrophenol; HC Yellow 6; NA Yellow 12; 2-nitro-1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4-methylbenzene; 2-nitro-4-amino-diphenylamine-2-carboxylic acid; 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol; NS Red BN; 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetranitroquinoxaline; o-nitro-p-phenylenediamine; p-nitro-m-phenylenediamine; NS Red In 54; NS Red 10; NS Red 11; NS Red 13; 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-1-hydroxy-4,6-dinitrobenzene; 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid; 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol; 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone; 1-propene- (4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) amine; isatin; N-methylyl isatin; HC Violet 1; HC Violet 2; 4-nitrophenyl-aminoethylurea in amounts of from 0.01 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 5% by weight. accordingly, based on all means, are preferred embodiments of the proposed invention.

Among the above dyes, individual representatives are particularly preferred, which is why the further preferred agents according to the invention, which are characterized in that they contain at least one substantial dye, are selected from Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 99, Basic Violet 14, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 46, Basic Red 51, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Acid Black 1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Violet 43, Acid Red 23, Acid Red 52, Acid Orange 7, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 36, Food Green 3, pigment Red 57-1, Disperse Black 9, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, HC Orange 1; NS Red 1; NS Red 3; NS Red 13; NS Yellow 2; NS Yellow 4; sodium picramate; 1,4-bis- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine; HC Yellow 5; HC Blue 2; HC Blue 12; 4-amino-3-nitrophenol; HC Yellow 6; NA Yellow 12; 2-nitro-1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4-methylbenzene; 2-nitro-4-amino-diphenylamine-2-carboxylic acid; 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol; NS Red BN; 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetranitroquinoxaline; o-nitro-p-phenylenediamine; p-nitro-m-phenylenediamine; NS Red In 54; NS Red 10; NS Red 11; NS Red 13; 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-1-hydroxy-4,6-dinitrobenzene; 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid; 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol; 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone; 1-propene- (4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) amine; isatin; N-methylyl isatin; HC Violet 1; HC Violet 2; 4-nitrophenyl-aminoethylurea in amounts of from 0.01 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 5% by weight. respectively, based on all means, are preferred.

Furthermore, the agents according to the invention may contain cationic substantive dyes. Especially preferred are

(a) cationic triphenylmethane dyes, such as, for example, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14,

(b) aromatic systems that are substituted with quaternary nitrogen groups, such as, for example, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, and

(c) substantial dyes that contain a heterocycle that has at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, such as, for example, referred to in European patent application EP-A 2998908, at this point a specific reference, in paragraphs 6-11 .

Preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c) are, in particular, the following compounds:

Compounds of formulas (DZ1), (DZ3) and (DZ5), which are also known as Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51, are highly preferred substantive dyes of group (c).

Cationic substantive dyes, which are sold under the trademarks Arianor®, according to the invention are also particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes.

Preferred according to the invention preferred means according to this variant implementation contain substantial dyes, preferably in an amount of from 0.01 to 20% of the mass. per all means.

In addition, the compositions proposed according to the invention may also contain dyes of natural origin, which are found, for example, in red henna, neutral henna, black henna, chamomile flowers, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, blue sandalwood, madder root, catechu , Sedra and Root Alcanna.

It is not necessary that the starting products of oxidative dyes or substantive dyes are suitably standard compounds. In most cases, the agents proposed according to the invention, due to the preparation methods for individual dyes, contain the following components in subordinate quantities, so far as this does not adversely affect the staining result or should be excluded for other reasons, for example, toxicological.

Regarding the dyes used, formulated in the proposed according to the invention means for coloring and tinting, in addition, a mandatory reference to the monograph Ch. Zviak, The Science of Hair Care, Kapitel 7 (pages 248-250; substantive dyes), as well as Kapitel 8, pages 264-267; oxidative dye starting materials), which appeared as Band 7 of the Dermatology series (manufacturer: Ch., Culnan und H. Maibach), Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, Basel, 1986.

According to the invention, however, oxidative dyeing agents can also be applied to the hair together with catalysts that activate the oxidation of the dye starting products, for example, due to air oxygen. Such catalysts are, for example, metal ions, iodides, quinones or certain enzymes.

Suitable metal ions are, for example, Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ Fe ²⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Mn ²⁺ , Mn ⁴⁺ , Li ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ and Al ³⁺ . Moreover, Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ and Mn ²⁺ are particularly suitable. Metal ions can, in principle, be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salts or in the form of complex compounds. Preferred salts are acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates. Thanks to the use of such metal salts, it is possible to both accelerate the formation of staining and purposefully influence color shades.

Suitable enzymes are, for example, peroxidases, which can obviously enhance the action of minor amounts of hydrogen peroxide. In addition, enzymes suitable according to the invention are those which directly oxidize oxidative dye starting materials, such as, for example, laccases, or, in situ, produce small amounts of hydrogen peroxide and thereby biocatalytically activate dye starting products. Particularly suitable catalysts for the oxidation of dye precursors are the so-called 2-electron-oxidoreductases in combination with specific substrates, for example:

- pyranose oxidase and, for example, D-glucose or galactose,

- glucose oxidase and D-glucose,

- glycerol oxidase and glycerin,

pyruvate oxidase and benzoic acid or its salts,

- alcohol oxidase and alcohol (MeOH, EtO),

- lactate oxidase and lactic acid and its salts,

- tyrosinase oxidase and tyrosine,

- uricase and urea acid or its salts,

- choline oxidase and choline,

- amino acid oxidase and amino acids.

Typically, a coloring agent is offered in the form of containers of a multilayer packaging material that contains a coloring cream and a separately packaged oxidizing solution. Before use, both components are quickly mixed with each other and the prepared mixture is applied to the dyed hair. The mixture ratio of both components can be freely selected. Then, it is advisable to mix the composition of the oxidizing agent immediately before dyeing the hair with a composition containing the original dye products. The resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should have a pH value preferably in the range of 6 to 10. It is especially preferred to use the hair dye in a slightly alkaline environment. The temperature of use may be between 15 and 40 ° C., preferably at the temperature of the scalp. After an exposure time of from about 5 to 45, in particular from 15 to 30 minutes, the hair dye is removed by rinsing from the dyed hair. Additional rinsing with shampoo is excluded if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, such as a coloring shampoo, is used.

In particular, with difficult to dye hair, a composition with the starting products of dyes can be applied to the hair without prior mixing with oxidizing components. After an action time of 20 to 30 minutes, then, if necessary, after additional washing, oxidizing components are applied. After the next exposure time, from 10 to 20 minutes, then rinse and optionally washed with shampoo. In this embodiment, according to the first embodiment, the previous application of the starting products of the carriers should provide better penetration into the hair of the appropriate agent at a pH of from about 4 to 7. According to the second embodiment, first oxidation is achieved by air, and the applied agent preferably has a pH of 7 to 10. Subsequently activated additional oxidation, it may be preferable to use acid-controlled solutions of peroxydisulfate as an oxidizing agent.

The following optional proposed according to the invention means are

non-ionic polymers, such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers,

- anionic polymers such as polyacrylic acids and polymethacrylic acids in the form of their copolymers with esters of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, polyoxycarboxylic acids such as polyketocarboxylic acids and polyaldehyde carboxylic acids and their salts,

as well as polymers and copolymers of crotonic acid with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, such as copolymers of vinyl acetate-crotonic acid and vinyl acetate-vinyl propionate-crotonic acid,

- structuring agents, such as glucose and maleic acid,

hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,

perfume oils, in particular with a fragrant note of fruit, such as, for example, apple, pear, strawberry, peach, apricot, pineapple, banana, cherry, kiwi, mango, coconut, almond, grapefruit, passion fruit, mandarin and melon, or a fragrant note of flavors such as, for example, tobacco, cola, chewing gum, guarana, chocolate, cocoa, vanilla, sarsaparilla, peppermint and rum.

dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,

a dissolution aid such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin, diethylene glycol and ethoxylated triglycerides,

- dyes,

- active anti-dandruff agents, such as Climbazole, Pyrocton olamine and zinc omadin,

- active substances, such as bisabolol, allantoin, panthenol, niacinmide, tocopherol and plant extracts,

- light protection means,

consistency sensors such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyolalkyl ethers,

- fats and waxes, such as valrat, beeswax, mountain wax, paraffins, esters, glycerides and fatty alcohols,

- fatty acid alkanolamides,

- complexing agents, such as EDTA, NTA, β-alanine diacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

- means for swelling and penetration, such as PCA, glycerin, simple propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, urea, as well as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

opacifying agents such as latex or styrene / acrylamide copolymer,

- gloss products such as ethylene glycol monostearate and ethylene glycol distearate or PEG-3-distearate,

- white pigment,

- reducing agents, such as, for example, thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, histamine, thiol malic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,

- oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate and sodium bromate,

blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air, and

- antioxidants

- bitter substances, such as, for example, denatonium benzoate,

- preservatives.

Regarding the type of the active substance used according to the invention or the combinations of active substances according to the invention for applying to the hair and / or skin, there are no fundamental restrictions. For packaging these compositions are suitable, for example, creams, lotions, solutions, water, emulsions, such as emulsions B / M, M / B, PIT (emulsions are called PIT according to the phase inversion solution), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, nanoemulsions, coarse-grained unstable single-phase or multiphase mixtures with agitation, gels, sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols. As a rule, they are formed on a water or water-alcohol basis. Moreover, lower alkanols as well as polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol are used as alcohol components. Preferred alcohols are ethanol and isopropanol. Water and alcohol can be in a water-alcohol basis in a mass ratio of from 1:10 to 10: 1. Water, as well as water-alcohol mixtures that contain up to 50 wt%, in particular up to 25 wt%. alcohol per alcohol / water mixture may be preferred bases according to the invention. The pH of these compositions may be in principle at values of 2-11. it is preferably between 2 and 7, with 3 to 6 being particularly preferred. To establish these pH values, virtually every acid or base used for cosmetic purposes can be used. As a rule, food acids are used as acids. Food acids are those acids that are perceived as part of normal food intake and have positive effects on the human body. Food acids are, in particular, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. In the framework of the invention, the use of citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred. Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, as well as N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis- (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.

Cosmetics for treating the skin can also be formed from the preparations according to the invention. Here, for example, body cleansing products, such as soap, synthetic detergents, shower gels, bath foams, etc., are used. also without problems, it is possible to formulate the products proposed according to the invention, which remain on the skin, such as creams, lotions, sunscreens, ointments, gels, etc.

Particularly preferably, the agents according to the invention are packaged in such a way that they can be used in the form of deodorants or antiperspirants. These compositions are also indicated below, summarizing, in the form of compositions to reduce body odor on the skin. Here, the cosmetic formulations according to the invention are preferred, in which case it is a means for influencing body odor or hair odor, in particular a deodorant.

Cosmetic formulations of deodorants or antiperspirants can be in powder form, in the form of sticks, in the form of spray sprays, pump sprays, liquid and gel-like rollers, creams, gels and as an impregnated flexible substrate.

Deodorants and antiperspirants in the form of sticks can be in gel form, on an anhydrous wax basis and on the basis of B / M and M / B emulsions. Helium sticks can be obtained on the basis of soaps from fatty acids, dibenzylidene sorbitol, amides of N-acylamino acids, 12-hydroxystearic acid and other gelling agents.

Aerosol sprays, pump sprays, rollers and creams can be in the form of an emulsion water in oil, emulsion oil in water, emulsion silicone oil in water, microemulsions water in oil, microemulsions oil in water, microemulsions silicone oil in water, anhydrous suspensions, alcohol and hydroalcoholic solutions, water gel and in the form of oil. All of these compositions can be condensed, for example, based on soaps from fatty acids, dibenzylidene sorbitol, amides of N-acylamino acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, polyacrylates such as carbomer and carbopol, polyacrylamides and polysaccharides, which can be chemically and / or physically modified.

Emulsions and microemulsions can be transparent, translucent or opaque.

Preferred deodorant or antiperspirant formulations according to the invention may also contain fatty substances. Fatty substances are understood to mean fatty acids, fatty alcohols, waxes, which can be either in solid form or liquid in an aqueous or oily dispersion.

As fatty acids, linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms can be used. Preferred are fatty acids having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Examples are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, butyric acid, elaidic acid, petrozelinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, linolenic acid acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidonic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucanoic acid, as well as their technical mixtures. Especially preferred is the use of stearic acid. The fatty acids used may have one or more hydroxy groups. Preferred examples for this are α-hydroxycarboxylic acids having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in part of the carboxylic acid, as well as 12-hydroxystearic acid. The amount used is from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight. respectively, for the entire composition.

As fatty alcohols, saturated, single or multiple unsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having from 6 to 30, preferably from 10 to 22 and highly preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms can be used. According to the invention, useful are, for example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucane alcohol, ricinole alcohol, stearic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myuryl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myuryl alcohol, lauryl alcohol caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, as well as their Gerbe alcohols.

To make sticks, waxes are often used. As natural or synthetic waxes, solid paraffins or isoparaffins, plant waxes such as candle wax, carnauba wax, esparto wax, Japanese wax, cork wax, sugarcane wax, uricuri wax, mountain wax, sunflower wax, fruit wax can be used according to the invention and animal waxes, such as, for example, beeswax and other Chinese waxes, valrat, shellac wax, wool wax and bird tail wax, in addition, mineral waxes, such as, for example, ceresin and ozokerite, or petrochemical wax Such as, e.g., petrolatum, paraffin waxes, microwaxes, polyethylene or polypropylene, and polyethylene glycol waxes. It may be preferable to use hydrogenated or hardened waxes. In addition, chemically modified waxes are also used, in particular hard waxes, for example, mountain ether wax, Sasol wax and hydrogenated jojoba waxes.

In addition, triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated fatty acids having from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, triglyceride fats (hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl tribeneate or glyceryl tri-12-hydroxystearate, are suitable. in addition, synthetic whole esters of fatty acids and glycols (e.g. Syncrowachs®) or polyols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, monoalkanolamides of fatty acids with an acyl residue having from 12 to 22 atoms at carbon and an alkanol ostate having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with chain lengths from 1 to 80 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with chain lengths from 1 to 80 carbon atoms, among them, for example, synthetic esters of fatty acids - fatty alcohols such as stearyl stearate or cetyl palmitate, esters of aromatic carboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic x acids (e.g. 12-hydroxystearic acid) and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with chain lengths from 1 to 80 carbon atoms, lactides of long chain hydroxycarboxylic acids and whole esters of fatty alcohols and dicarboxylic acids and tricarboxylic acids, for example, dicetyl succinate or dicetyl- / stearyl adipate, as well as mixtures of these substances, since the individual wax components or their mixture are solid at room temperature.

Particularly preferably, the wax components are selected from the group of esters of saturated unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 14 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 14 to 44 carbon atoms, since the wax components or the combination of wax components are solid at room temperature. Particularly preferably, the wax components can be selected from the group of alkyl stearates having from 16 to 36 carbon atoms, alkyl stearates having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, alkyl isostearates having from 20 to 40 carbon atoms based on dimeric acids, alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearates having from 18 to 38 carbon atoms, alkyl erucates having from 20 to 40 carbon atoms, in addition, alkyl beeswax having from 30 to 50 carbon atoms, as well as cetearyl behenate, are used. If necessary, silicone waxes, for example stearyl trimethylsilane / stearyl alcohol, are also preferred. Particularly preferred wax components are complex waxes from saturated monohydric alcohols having from 20 to 60 carbon atoms and saturated monocarboxylic acids having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular alkyl stearate having from 20 to 40 carbon atoms, which is sold under the name Kesterwachs® K82H by Koster Keunen Inc. Wax or wax components must be solid at 25 ° C, however melting in the region of 35 to 95 ° C, with a region of 45 to 85 ° C being preferred.

Natural, chemically modified and synthetic waxes can be used alone or in combination. Wax components are preferably contained in an amount of from 0.1 to 40% by weight. calculated on the entire composition, preferably from 1 to 30% of the mass. and, in particular, from 5 to 15% of the mass. The compositions according to the invention may also contain at least one non-polar or polar liquid oil, which may be natural or synthetic.

Polar oil components can be selected from vegetable oils, for example sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil and liquid parts of coconut oil, as well as synthetic triglyceride oils, from essential oils, i.e. fatty acid esters, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, with fatty alcohols having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, from dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate and di- (2-ethylhexyl ) -succinate, as well as complex diol e esters, such as ethylene glycol dioleate and propylene glycol di (2-ethylene hexanoate), from symmetric, asymmetric or cyclic esters of carbonic acids with fatty alcohols, for example, described in German patent application DE 19756454, glycerol carbonate or dicapryl carbonate (cetiol® CC, mono-fatty acids, fatty acids and fatty acids, saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, for example Cutina® MD, from branched alkanols, for example, separate branched Gerbeh alcohols at the carbon atom 2, such as 2-hexyldecanol, 2-octyldodecanol, isotridecanol and isohexadecanol, from alkanoids, for example, from epoxyalkanes having from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, through ring opening with water of obtained official diols, from ethers, for example ethers monoalkyl ethers of glycerol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol or 1,2-butanediol from dialkyl ethers having from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, respectively, for example, alkyl methyl ethers or di-n-alkyl ethers having respectively the whole from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular di-n-octyl ethers (cetiol® OE from Cognis), as well as from the products of the addition of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to monoatomic or polyatomic alkanols having from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, such as butanol and glycerol, for example, simple PPG-3-myristyl ether (Witconol® APM), simple PPG-17-butyl ether (Ucon Fluid® AP), simple PPG-15-stearyl ether (Arlamol® E), simple PPG-9- butyl ether (Breox® B25) and BCP-10-butanediol (Macol® 57).

Non-polar oil components are selected from liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, for example isohexadecane and isoeicosan, from synthetic hydrocarbons, for example 1,3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) cyclohexane (cetiol® S), as well as from volatile and non-volatile silicone oils, which may be cyclic, such as, for example, decamethyl-cyclopentasiloxane, are commercially available, for example, under the name Dow Corning® 190, 200, 244, 245, 344 or 345, and Baysilon® 350 M.

Compositions according to the invention for reducing body odor on the skin may contain, in addition, at least one water-soluble alcohol. According to the invention, water solubility is understood to mean that at least 5% of the mass. alcohol at a temperature of 20 ° C dissolve to transparency or, however, in the case of long-chain sludge polymer alcohols by heating the solution to a temperature of from 50 to 60 ° C can dissolve. Monohydric alcohols, such as, for example, ethanol, propanol or isopropanol, are suitable depending on the form of use.

The following preferred formulations according to the invention are characterized in that they also contain at least one water-soluble polyhydric alcohol having from 2 to 9 carbon atoms, with 2-6 hydroxy groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol, consisting of 3-20 elements of ethylene oxide, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, these components are selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butanediols such as 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol and 1,4-butanediol, pentanediols, such as 1,2-pentanediol and 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1,6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,8-octanediol, di-propylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerin, erythritol, sorbitol, as well as mixtures of the above substances. Suitable water-soluble polyethylene glycols are selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12 PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG- 20, as well as mixtures thereof, with PEG-3 to PEG-8 being preferred. Sugar and certain sugar derivatives such as fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, inositol, sucrose, trelose and xylose may also be preferred according to the invention.

The compositions according to the invention contain a water-soluble polyhydric alkanol having from 2 to 9 carbon atoms, with 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or a water-soluble polyethylene glycol consisting of 3-20 elements, in total in amounts from 3 to 25% by weight, preferably from 8 to 18% of the mass. based on the entire composition.

The amount of alcohol or alcohol mixture in the compositions according to the invention for reducing body odor on the skin is from 1 to 50% by weight. and preferably from 5 to 40% of the mass. based on the entire composition. According to the invention, both alcohol and a mixture of several alcohols can be used.

The compositions according to the invention for reducing body odor on the skin can be substantially anhydrous, that is, contain a maximum of 5% by weight, preferably a maximum of 1% by weight. water. In aqueous applications, the water content is from 5 to 98% by weight, preferably from 10 to 90% by weight. and particularly preferably from 15 to 85% of the mass. based on the entire composition.

Compositions according to the invention for reducing body odor on the skin may contain, in addition, at least one hydrophilic modified silicone. Silicones contribute to the formation of highly transparent compounds, reduce stickiness and leave a feeling of freshness on the skin. Hydrophilic modified silicones according to the invention are understood to mean polyorganosiloxanes with hydrophilic substituents, which determine the water solubility of silicones. According to the invention, water solubility is understood to mean that at least 2% of the mass. silicone modified with hydrophilic groups dissolves in water at a temperature of 20 ° C. Suitable hydrophilic substituents are hydroxy, polyethylene glycol or polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol side chains, as well as ethoxylated ester chains. Hydrophilic modified silicone copolyols, in particular dimethicone copolyols, which are commercially available, for example, under the name Belsil® DMC 6031, Belsil® DMC 6032, Belsil® DMC 6038 or Belsil® DMC 3071 VP from Wacker-Chemie or under DC 2501 by Dow Corning. Particularly preferred is the use of Belsil® DMC 6038, as this contributes to the formation of highly transparent compositions that are highly recognized by the consumer. Any mixture of these silicones can also be used according to the invention.

The amount of hydrophilic modified silicone or alcohol mixture in the compositions according to the invention is from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8% by weight. and particularly preferably from 2 to 6% of the mass. based on the total weight of the composition.

Compositions according to the invention for reducing body odor on the skin may contain, in addition, at least one water-soluble surfactant. As a water-soluble surfactant, in principle, all surfactants that are soluble in this system up to 1% of the mass are suitable. at a temperature of 20 ° C and in water at a temperature of 20 ° C to at least 1% of the mass. Despite the fact that the structure and ionicity are insignificant, nonionic surfactants, in particular products of the addition of ethylene oxide to a molecule of a fatty substance with at least one alkoxylated group, are solid which are solid at normal temperature (20 ° C). Such suitable surfactants are, for example, the products of the addition of 10-40 ethylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, to alkanolamides of fatty acids, to monoglycerides of fatty acids , to sorbitan fatty acid monoesters, to fatty acid alkanolamides, to fatty acid glycerides, for example to solidified castor oil, to methyl glucoside fatty acid ester, and mixtures thereof.

The compositions according to the invention for reducing body odor on the skin contain in a preferred embodiment at least one active substance of an antiperspirant. Suitable active substances of antiperspirants are water-soluble astringent metal salts, in particular inorganic and organic salts of aluminum, zirconium and zinc, or any mixture of these salts. According to the invention, water solubility is understood to mean the solubility of at least 5 g of the active substance per 100 g of solution at a temperature of 20 ° C. According to the invention, the following are used, for example, alaun (KAl (SO ₂ ) ₂ · 12 H ₂ O), aluminum sulfate, aluminum lactate, sodium aluminum hydrochloride hydroxyl lactate, aluminum hydrochloride hydroxyl lanthate, aluminum hydrochloride, aluminum sulfocarbolate, aluminum zirconium hydrochloride, zinc chloride, zinc sulfocarbolate, zinc sulfate, zirconium chlorohydrate and aluminum-zirconium-chlorohydrate-glycine complexes. Preferably, the compositions comprise an astringent aluminum salt, in particular aluminum hydrochloride, and / or an aluminum-zirconium compound. Antitranspirant substances are used in aqueous applications in the form of aqueous solutions. Proposed according to the invention, the compositions contain antiperspirant substances in an amount of from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 5 to 30% by weight. and, in particular, from 10 to 25% of the mass. (based on the amount of active substance in the whole composition). Aluminum chlorohydrates are sold, for example, in powder form like Reheis Micro Dry® Ultrafine, as Chlorhydrol®, in activated form as Reheis Reach® 501, and also in aqueous solution as Clariant Locron® L. Reheis aluminum sesquichlorohydrate is available under the name Reach®301. The use of aluminum-zirconium-chlorohydrate-glycine complexes, which are commercially available, for example, under the name of Reheis Resal® 36G, is also particularly preferred according to the invention.

According to the invention, preferred deodorizing cosmetic formulations are characterized in that they contain astringent inhibiting sweating salts in an amount of from 1 to 40% of the mass. per composition.

Compositions according to the invention for reducing body odor on the skin may also contain inhibitory microorganisms or deodorizing active substances. Suitable are, in particular, organohalogen compounds, as well as organohalogenides, quaternary ammonium compounds, a number of plant extracts and zinc compounds. Preferred are chlorhexidine and chlorhexidine gluconate, benzalkonium halides and cetyl pyridinium chloride. Further, sodium bicarbonate, sodium phenolsulfonate and zinc phenolsulfonate are used, as well as, for example, constituent linden-colored oils.

The following antibacterial deodorizing agents are lantibiotics, glycoglycerolipids, sphingolipids (ceramides), sterols and other active substances that inhibit the adherence of bacteria to the skin, for example, glycosidases, lipases, proteases, carbohydrates, disaccharidic acid esters and oligosaccharidylated acids, and also alkyl oligosaccharides.

Liquid and gel forms of use may contain thickeners, for example cellulose ether, such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose, thickening polyacrylate-based polymers, which can be crosslinked if desired, for example carbopol or Pemulen® products or based on polyacrylamides sulfonic acid polyacrylates, for example Sepigel® 305 or Simulgel® EG, in addition, inorganic thickeners, for example bentonites and hectorites (Laponite®).

Compositions according to the invention for reducing body odor on the skin may contain the following cosmetic and dermatological active substances, such as, for example, anti-inflammatory substances, solids selected from silicic acids, for example aerosil®, silica gel, silicon dioxide, clays, for example bentonites or kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicates, for example talc, boron nitride, titanium dioxide, which, if desired, can be coated with, if necessary, modified starches and starch derivatives, cellulose nye powders and polymer powders, more plant extracts, protein hydrolysates, vitamins, aromatic oils, sebostatiki, anti-acne actives, keratolytics as well.

Cosmetic compositions of deodorants or antiperspirants, since they are liquid, can be applied to a flexible and absorbent carrier, and are offered in the form of wipes soaked in a deodorant or antiperspirant, or sponges. Suitable flexible and absorbent carriers according to the invention are, for example, carriers of textile fibers, collagen or polymer foams. As textile fibers, woven or non-woven fibers such as natural fibers, such as cellulose (cotton, linen), silk, wool, regenerated cellulose (viscose, rayon), cellulose derivatives, and synthetic fibers, for example polyester, polyacrylonitrile, polyamide or polyolefin fibers or mixtures of these fibers. These fibers can be processed into absorbent cotton pads, non-woven materials, or into fabrics or knitted fabrics. Also suitable substrates are flexible and absorbent polymer foams, for example polyurethane foams and polyamide foams. The substrate may have one, two, three, as well as more than three layers, and the individual layers may consist of the same or different materials. Each substrate layer may have a uniform or inhomogeneous structure with, for example, different zones of different thicknesses.

According to the invention, such substrates are those absorbent which, at a temperature of 20 ° C, at least 10% of the mass. based on dry weight, water can be adsorbed or capillary bound. Preferredly suitable, however, are those carriers that can at least 100% of the mass. water adsorption or capillary binding.

The sizing of the substrates takes place in a way that absorbent, flexible carriers, preferably of textile fibers, collagen or polymer foams, are processed or saponified with the compositions according to the invention and, if necessary, dried. In this case, the processing (sizing) of the substrates can occur in any way, for example by spraying, dipping and squeezing, impregnating, or simply by injecting the composition according to the invention into carriers.

In addition, according to the invention, preferably an aerosol is a form of application, wherein the cosmetic composition contains a blowing agent selected from propane, butane, isobutane, pentane, isopentane, dimethyl ether, fluorocarbons and fluorocarbons, as well as mixtures thereof.

The next object of the proposed invention is the use of at least one ester of silicic acids of the formulas I, and / or II, and / or III, and / or IV

in which, respectively, at least one residue R is selected from - (CH ₂ ) ₂ —CH═CH — CH ₂ —CH ₃ (hexenyl residue) or —CH ₂ —CH = CH — C ₆ H ₅ (cinnamon residue ) and other R residues, respectively, independently from each other, are selected from the group which contains a hydrogen atom, straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon residues having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and a 2-phenoxyethyl residue, and the value m taken from the region from 1 to 20 and n from the region from 2 to 100, as well as mixtures thereof, in cosmetics.

Moreover, the use according to the invention in deodorants or antiperspirants is particularly preferred.

Due to the use of hexenyl and / or cinnamic acid silicic esters, both aromatic substances that esterify with oligosilicon esters and aromatic substances that esterify with simple oligosilicon esters can give a long-lasting effect. So, regardless of the chemical composition of aromatic substances, the compounds proposed according to the invention can be used in mixtures of aromatic substances in order to give the entire aromatic composition a longer release of odor.

Therefore, the use according to one of claims 9 or 10 according to the invention is especially preferred for increasing the intensity of the odor and / or prolonging the stability and / or smell of the cosmetic, in particular deodorants or antiperspirants.

With respect to the preferred applications proposed according to the invention, the situation is the same for all of the compositions proposed according to the invention, with all the factors remaining constant.

The next object of the proposed invention is a method of reducing body odor on the skin, in which the cosmetic composition of a deodorant or antiperspirant containing at least one ester of silicic acids of the formulas I, and / or II, and / or III, and / or IV

in which, respectively, at least one residue R is selected from - (CH ₂ ) ₂ —CH═CH — CH ₂ —CH ₃ (hexenyl residue) or —CH ₂ —CH = CH — C ₆ H ₅ (cinnamon residue ) and other R residues, respectively, independently from each other, are selected from the group which contains a hydrogen atom, straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon residues having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and a 2-phenoxyethyl residue, and the value m taken from the region of 1 to 20 and n from the region of 2 to 100, applied to the skin, in particular to the skin of the armpits.

Also, with respect to the preferred method according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention are relevant, with corresponding changes.

Receive the following compositions of perfumes (data in g)

Fragrance 1:

Bergamot oil 62.0 Lemon butter messina 40,0 Tangerine oil 45.0 Sweet orange oil 30,0 Complex 3-hexenylsilicic acid 20,0 Pure lavender oil 13.0 Eucalyptus oil 5,0 Clary sage oil 5,0 Tetrahydrolinalool 13.0 Citronellyl silicic acid ester 45.0 Gedion 250,0 Dihydro beta jon 12.0 Methylonctincarb. 10% in DPG 2.0 Patchouli 2.0 East Indian Sandalwood Oil 3.0 Vertofix coeur 60.0 Boisambrene forte 12.0 Iso e super 170.0 Heliotropin 1,0 Ethylene brassilate 170.0 Dipropylene glycol 40,0 DPG = dipropylene glycol

Fragrance 2:

Dihydromyrceneol 70.0 Lemon butter messina 32,0 Grapefruit oil 20,0 Cyclohalbanate 3.0 Hexenyl silicic acid ester 10.0 Ethyllinalool 28.0 Geranilosilicon ester 30,0 Citronellyl silicic acid ester 24.0 Damaskon alpha 3.0 Hedion 80.0 Cedar oil 30,0 Cedrenyl acetate 50,0 Iso e super 300,0 Boisambrene forte 24.0 Ambroxan 12.0 Gabanolide 22.0 Ethylene brassilate 170.0 Dipropylene glycol 92.0

These aromatic oils are included in cosmetic formulations:

All data in% of the mass.

1. emulsion oil in water

2. skin creams

one 2 3 four Thistle oil 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Miritol 318 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Novata AB 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Behenyl alcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Kutina MD 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Cetearyl alcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Isopropyl stearate 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 Shea Butter 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Dimethicone 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Hydrogenated Palm Glyceride Citrate 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Propylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Dow Corning 1403 Fluid 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Aluminum starch octenyl succinate 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 TiO ₂ 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Hexanediol 6.00 3.00 - - Propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Glycerol 5.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Sodium Carbomer 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 Algae extract 1.00 - - - Kaomint 1.00 0.50 2.00 - Calmosensin 1.00 2.00 - 2.00 Symdiol 68 0.30 0.50 - - DSH-CN 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea 4.30 2,50 8.60 10.00 Fragrance 1 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Water 100 each 100 each 100 each 100 each

2. Skin creams:

one 2 3 Cetearyl Isononanoates 4.00 4.00 4.00 Mineral oil 6.00 6.00 6.00 Kutina CBS 2.00 2.00 2.00 Palmitic Acid / Stearic Acid 1,50 1,50 1,50 Ceteareth-30 1.00 1.00 1.00 Dimethicone 1.00 1.00 1.00 Tocopheryl acetate 0.50 0.50 0.50 Propylparaben 0.30 0.30 0.30 Acrylate / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-polymer 0.27 0.27 0.27 Glycerol 5.00 3.00 3.00 Lactic acid 0.26 0.26 0.26 Propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 Methylparaben 0.30 0.30 0.30 Phenoxyethanol 0.90 0.90 0.90 Panthenol 0.50 - - Digital Kelp Extract 1.00 - - Sodium chloride 0.05 0.05 0.05 Sepigel 305 0.50 0.50 0.50 Silk protein 0.25 0.25 0.25 Kaomint 1.00 - 2.00 Calmosensin 1.00 2.00 - Xanthan gum 0.20 0.20 0.20 Bis-N, N '- (2- 4.30 2,50 8.60 hydroxyethyl) urea Fragrance 2 0.30 0.30 0.30 Water By By By one hundred one hundred one hundred

3. Day cream

one 2 3 four 5 Hydrogenated lecithin 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Isopropyl stearate 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 Dibutyl adipate 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Tocopherol acetate 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Kutina MD 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Behenyl alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Dimethicone 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Propylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Dow corning 9040 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Glycerol 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Hexanediol 6.00 - - - 4.00 Methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Sodium Carbomer 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 Seaweed extract 1.00 - - - - Photosomes 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Dimethylmethoxy chromanol 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 Propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5,0 Kaomint 1.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Calmosensin 1.00 - - 1.00 1.00 Matrixinil 3.00 - - - - Palmitoyl Oligopeptides - 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-1 - 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Simugel ns 1,50 1,50 1,50 1,50 1,50 Sodium Benzoate - 0.50 0.50 - - Phenoxyethanol 0.50 - - - - Symdiol 68 0.30 0.30 0.30 - - TiO ₂ 0.50 - - - - Bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea 2,50 8.60 8.60 8.60 8.60 Silumarin 0.30 - - - 0.50 Ectoin 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Vitamin B6 - 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 Fragrance 2 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 Water 100 each 100 each 100 each 100 each 100 each

5. Day cream:

one 2 3 four 5 6 Montanov L 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Dibutyl adipate 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 Miritol 318 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Cetearyl alcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Glyceryl stearate 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Dimethicone 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Propylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Cyclopentasiloxane 1,50 1,50 1,50 1,50 1,50 1,50 Glycerol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Sorbitol 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Dry flo plus 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Sodium Carbomer 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Kaomint 1.00 - 2.00 1.00 - 2.00 Calmosensin 1.00 2.00 - 1.00 2.00 - Di Laminate Extract 0.50 - - - - - Bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea 2,50 4.30 8.60 2,50 4.30 - Matrixil 3000 1.00 1.00 0.30 1.00 1.00 - Photosomes 3.00 - - 3.00 - - Vegetal filling spheres 1.00 2.00 - 1.00 2.00 - Betaine - - 0.50 - - - Fragrance 2 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Retinyl Palmitate 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 - Pantolactone - 0.50 - - 0.50 - Ascorbyl palmitate - - - - - 1.00 Bisabolol 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 - - Water 100 each 100 each 100 each 100 each 100 each 100 each

Lipoprotein Cream Skin Cream

one 2 3 four 5 6 Miritol®318 3,5 3,5 3,5 3,5 3,5 3,5 Lanette®22 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Kutina® GMS-V 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Stenol®16 / 18 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Thistle oil 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Controx® KS 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Baysilon® M350 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 Isopropyl stearate 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 Propylparaben 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Kaomint 1.00 - 2.00 1.00 - 2.00 Calmosensin 1.00 2.00 - 1.00 2.00 - Glycerol 5,0 5,0 5,0 5,0 5,0 5,0 Ethoxyglycol 5,0 5,0 5,0 5,0 5,0 5,0 Methylparaben 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Hibiscin®HPLS9198 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Lemon acid 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Dihydroxyacetone 0.5 - - - - Fucogel 1000 2.0 1,0 1,0 1,0 - 1,0 Sepigel® 305 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Sopoliol Sodium Chloride 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Sodium Benzoate 0.20 0.20 Flavoring agent 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 Methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 Propylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 Symdiol 68 0.30 0.50 0.30 Phenoxyethanol 0.50 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 Glycerol 5.00 2,50 5.00 5.00 2,50 5.00 Kaomint 1.00 - 2.00 1.00 - 2.00 Calmosensin 1.00 2.00 - 1.00 2.00 - Naringin - - - 0.02 - - Soy Protein Isolate - - - - 1.00 1.00 Ederline l 3.00 1.00 - - - - Sepivinol R - - 1.00 - 1.00 - Coenzyme Q 10 0.01 - - - 0.02 - Fragrance 1 0.2 0.1 0.3 0.1 0.2 0.1

3. Cleansing composition

1. Water compositions for cleansing the skin

one 2 3 Dipropylene glycol 10.00 10.00 10.00 Chlorhexidine Digluconate 1.00 1.00 1.00 Poloxamer-184 3.00 3.00 3.00 Panthenol 0.50 0.50 0.50 Hydagen CMF 3.00 3.00 3.00 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil / tridecet 9 / propylene glycol 0.50 0.50 0.50 Chlorella Vulgaris Extract 0.50 0.50 0.50 Kaomint 1.00 - 2.00 Calmosensin 1.00 2.00 - Fragrance 1 0.20 0.20 0.20 Water 100 each 100 each 100 each

2. Cleansing gel:

one 2 3 Carbomer 1.40 1.40 1.40 Sorbitol 2.10 2.10 2.10 Sodium Benzoate 0.40 0.40 0.40 Plantaren® 1200 7.50 7.50 7.50 Dehyton® K 3.40 3.40 3.40 Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate 5.00 5.00 5.00 Cetiol® NOT 0.50 0.50 0.50 Lamesoft® PO 65 5.00 5.00 5.00 Controx KS 0.05 0.05 0.05 Sodium PCA 1,60 1,60 Pantolactone 1.00 1.00 Tetrasodium EDTU 0.25 0.25 0.25 Sodium Lactate 1.80 Panthenol 0.50 0.50 0.50 Kaomint 1.00 - 2.00 Calmosensin 1.00 2.00 - Acnacidol PG 0.10 0.50 - Microscrub 50 PC - 1.00 2.00 Fragrance 1 0.40 0.40 0.40 Water 100 each 100 each 100 each

Cleansing gels No. 2 and 3 contain a peeling body:

Sprayable transparent microemulsions of an antiperspirant or deodorant (data in% wt.)

1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 Plantaren® 1200 1.71 1.71 - 1.71 Plantaren®2000 1.14 1.39 2.40 1.14 Glycerol monooleate 0.71 0.71 - 0.71 Dioctyl ether 4.00 4.00 0.09 4.00 Octyldodecanol 1.00 1.00 0.02 1.00 Aromatic oil 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Aluminum Hydrochloride 8.00 5.00 5.00 - 1,2-propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 - 5.00 Glycerol - - 5.00 Phenoxyethanol 1,0 0.5 0.5 1,0 Sensiva® SC 50 0.3 0.6 0.5 0.2 Tocopheryl acetate - 0.6 - - Hinokitiol - - 0.01 - Manganese Gluconate - - - 0.1 Rosmarinic acid 0.01 - 0.05 - Phytic acid - - - 0.01 Coamine 1,0 2.0 1,0 - Calmosensin - - - 1,0 Fragrance 1 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Water 100 each 100 each 100 each 100 each

Hair Rinse:

Eumulgin® B2 0.3 Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 3.3 Isopropyl myristate 0.5 White oil perliquidum 15 cSt. Dab 9 0.3 Dehyquart®L 80 0.4 Lamesoft® PO 65 1,5 Cosmedia Guar® C 261 1,5 Promois® Milk-CAQ 3.0 Lemon acid 0.4 Potassius coiled hydrolyzed silk 2.0 Kaomint 2.0 Hexapeptide-2 0.3 Poly-L-Serine 0.5 Phenonip® 0.8 Fragrance 1 0.15 Water 100 each

Hair Balm:

Dehyquart® F75 4.0 Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 4.0 White oil perliquidum 15 cSt. Dab 9 1,5 Dehyquart®L 80 4.0 Lamesoft® PO 65 1,0 Salcare® SC 96 1,5 Kaomint 2.0 Sericin 0.1 D / L-isoleucine 2.5 Glyoxylic acid 0.5 Amisafe-LMA-60® 1,0 Gluadin®W 20 3.0 Germall® 115 1,0 Lemon acid 0.15 Phenonip® 0.8 Fragrance 1 0.15 Water 100 each

Hair Balm:

Dehyquart® L80 2.0 Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 6.0 White oil perliquidum 15 cSt. Dab 9 2.0 Rewquat® W 75 2.0 Cosmedia Guar® C 261 0.5 Lamesoft® PO 65 0.5 Sepigel®305 3,5 Honeyquat® 50 1,0 Gluadin®W 20 3.0 Calmosensin 2.0 Hydrolyzed Sericin 0.8 L-glycine 0.4 L-Alanyl-L-Proline 1,0 L-tyrosine 0.2 Lemon acid 0.15 Phenonip® 0.8 Fragrance 2 0.15 Water 100 each

Hair Balm:

Dehyquart® F75 0.3 Salcare®SC 96 5,0 Gluadin®WQ 1,5 Lamesoft® PO 65 0.5 Dow Corning®200 Fluid, 5 cSt. 1,5 Gafquat®755N 1,5 Poly-0 / L-Alanine 1,5 Calmosensin 2.0 Kaomint 1,0 Serine 0.1 Glycine methyl ester 0.5 Tyrosine methyl ester 0.2 Sericin 0.2 Biocarb® 0.02 Fragrance 2 0.25 Water 100 each

Shampoo:

Texapon® NSO 40,0 Dehyton® 6.0 Polymer JR 400® 0.5 Cetiol® NOT 0.5 Ajidew® NL 50 1,0 Lamesoft® PO 65 3.0 Sericin 0.8 Kaomint 1,0 Gluadin® WQT 2.5 Gluadin® W20 0.5 Panthenol (50%) 0.3 Casein 2.0 Vitamin E 0.1 Vitamin H 0.1 Glutamic acid 0.2 Lemon acid 0.5 Sodium benzoate 0.5 Fragrance 2 0.4 NaCl 0.5 Water 100 each

Shampoo:

Texapon® NSO 43.0 Dehyton® 10.0 Plantacare® 1200 UP 4.0 Lamesoft® PO 65 2.5 Euperlan®PK 3000 1,6 Arquad®316 0.8 Polymer JR 400® 0.3 Kaomint 1,0 Calmosensin 1,0 Gluadin® WQ 4.0 Sodium Lauroil Hydrolyzed Silk 3.0 Sericin 10.0 Lactic acid 0.5 Apple acid 0.5 Glutamate® DOE 120 0.5 Sodium chloride 0.2 Fragrance 1 0.2 Water 100 each

Anti-hair loss fluid for men:

Carbopol ETD 2020 0.1 D-Biotin 0.001 Kaomint 1,0 Allantoin 0.1 Perfume 0.15 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.15 D-panthenol 75% 0.1 Ethanol 96% DEP Denatured 40,0 Neutrol TE 0.1 Phytodermine 0.1 Green tea extract 0.5 Ginseng extract 0.1 Fragrance 1 0.2 Desalinated water 100.0 each

Water for hair:

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0,300000 0,300000 Octopyrox 0,050000 0,050000 D-panthenol 75% 0,100000 0,100000 Ethanol 96% DEP Denatured 50,000000 50,000000 Kaomint 1.000000 - Calmosensin - 1.000000 Ginger extract 0.400000 0.400000 Citric Acid Anhydrous 0.015000 0.015000 Fragrance 2 0,500,000 0,500,000 Desalinated water 100,000000 each 100,000000 each

Two-phase regenerating massage fluid for the body and scalp

Allantoin 0,100000 0,100000 D&C Green No. 5 0,000800 0,000800 Kaomint 1.000000 - Calmosensin - 1.000000 Lactic Acid 80% DAB 0,100000 0,100000 Disodium Phosphate Anhydrous 0,100000 0,100000 D-panthenol 0,100000 0,100000 Brij 30 0,500,000 0,500,000 Trisiloxane Liquid 1 cs 20,000000 20,000000 D, L-alpha-bisabolol 0,100000 0,100000 Ethanol 96% DEP Denatured 25,000000 25,000000 Fragrance 2 0,500,000 0,500,000 Desalinated water 100,000000 each 100,000000 each

Massage fluid for sensitive scalp

Allantoin 0.1 0.1 D-panthenol 75% 0.2 0.2 Kaomint 1,0 0.5 Calmosensin - 0.5 DERMOSOFT OCTIOL 1,0 1,0 Glycerin 86%, vegetable 1,0 1,0 Benzophenone-4 0,03 0,03 Jaguar HP 105 0.5 0.5 Ajidew nl 50 0.5 0.5 HYDAGEN CMF 10.0 10.0 Lactic Acid 80% DAB 0.02 0.02 Sodium Lactate 60% 0.5 0.5 D, L-alpha-bisabolol 0.2 0.2 Eumulgin In 2 0.25 0.25 Fragrance 2 0.25 0.25 Desalinated water 100.0 each 100.0 each

All quantitative data, unless otherwise noted, mean mass parts.

Compact hairspray normal fixation:

Ultrahold 8 6.0 Amphomer LV-71 4.0 Aminomethylpropanol 1.3 Pantolactone 0.3 Uvinul MS 40 0.3 Kaomint 1,0 Ethanol 40,0 Fragrance 1 0.5 Water 60.0 each Dimethyl ether 40,0

Compact strong hold hair spray (wet look)

Gantrez es-425 10.0 Eumulgin 05 0.5 Triisopropanolamine 1,0 Dow Corning (0.65 cSt) 0.3 Kaomint 1,0 Surfadone LP 300 0.4 Fragrance 2 0.5 Water 7.5 Ethanol 60.0 each Propane / Butane (60/40) 40,0

After Shave Cream

Component EMULGADE® SE 4.0 4.0 LANETTE® 0 1,0 1,0 MYRITOL®312 3.0 3.0 CETIOL® PGL 7.0 7.0 DC® 190 0.5 0.5 GLUADIN®AGP 0.5 0.5 Kaomint 2.0 - Calmosensin - 1,0 Panthenol (50%) 0.5 0.5 Silymarin 0.3 0.3 CETIOL® PGL 1,0 1,0 KOH, 20% 0.5 0.5 Bisabolol 0.2 0.2 Ethanol 10.0 10.0 Fragrance 1 0.2 0.2 Water 100 each 100 each

Shower gel:

TEXAPON® NSO 10.0 10.0 10.0 PLANTACARE®818UP 4.0 4.0 4.0 DEHYTON® K 5,0 5,0 5,0 LAMESOFT® PO 65 1,5 1,5 1,5 EUPERLAN® PK 3000 AM 1,0 1,0 1,0 Kaomint 2.0 - 1,0 Calmosensin - 1,0 1,0 Niacinamide 0.5 0.5 - Microscrub 50 PC - - 2.0 Vitamin B6 0.1 0.05 - Polymer JR® 400 0.3 0.3 0.3 Sodium chloride 1,5 1,5 1,5 Fragrance 2 0.25 0.25 0.3 Water 100 each 100 each 100 each

Anhydrous AT-Stick Surfactants (Bulk Data)

1.1 1.2 Silicone oils DC® 245 28 28 Eutanol®G 16 10 - Cetiol® OE - 10 Ucon Fluid® AP 5 5 Kutina® HR 6 6 Lorol @ C 18 twenty twenty Eumulgin® B 3 3 3 Aluminum Chlorohydrate twenty twenty Talc 8 8 Fragrance 1 0.5 - Fragrance 2 - 0.7 Zinc Lactate 0.1 - Ascorbyl glucoside - 1,0 2-ethylhexylglycerol ether 1,5 -

Sprayable transparent microemulsions of antiperspirant (data in% wt.)

2.1 2.2 Plantaren® 1200 1.71 1.71 Plantaren® 2000 1.14 1.39 Glycerol monooleate 0.71 0.71 Dioctyl ether 4.00 4.00 Octyldodecanol 1.00 1.00 Aluminum Hydrochloride 8.00 5.00 1,2-propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 Glycerol - - Phenoxyethanol 1,0 - Tocopheryl acetate - 0.6 Hinokitiol 0.01 - Aluminum gluconate - - Manganese Gluconate - 1,2 Magnesium Glucoheptonate 1.7 - Cibafast ™ H 1,0 - Fragrance 1 1,0 - Fragrance 2 - 1,0 Water 100 each 100 each

Sticks containing soap (data in% wt.)

3.1 3.2 Ethanol 22.5 22.5 Kutina ® FS 45 4.4 4.4 1,3-butanediol 31.7 31.7 1,2-propylene glycol 21.0 21.0 Eutanol® g 2.0 2.0 Aethoxal® B 3.0 3.0 Cremophor®RH 455 0.05 0.05 NaOH 45% 1.44 1.44 Phenoxyethanol 1,0 1,0 Sensiva®SC 50 0.3 0.3 Emblica ^tm 1,0 - Oleanoline ^tm DPG - 1,0 Vitamin C 0.2 - Yuzu Oil - 0.05 Fragrance 1 1,0 - Fragrance 2 - 1,0 Distilled water 100 each 100 each

Roller antiperspirant (data in% wt.)

4.1 4.2 Ethanol 96% DEP Denatured 30,0 30,0 Mergital® CS 11 2.0 2.0 Eumulgin® B 3 2.0 2.0 Aluminum Chlorohydrate 20,0 20,0 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.5 0.5 Fixolide® NP 0.01 - Lauroyl glutamate - 2.0 Salicylic acid 0.4 - Crodafos® SG - 0.7 Fragrance 1 - 0.8 Fragrance 2 0.8 - Water 100 each 100 each

Antiperspirant aerosol suspension type (data in% wt.)

5.1 5.2 DC-245 10.0 10.0 Isopropyl myristate 5,0 5,0 Aluminum Hydrochloride Powder 5,0 5,0 Aerosil® R 972 2.0 2.0 Fragrance 1 1,0 - Fragrance 2 - 0.7 n-butane 77 77.3

Clear soap

Components % of the mass. Sodium Tallowat 67.0 Sodium Cocoat 18.0 Glycerol 7.0 Sorbitol 2.0 Propylene glycol 2.0 Fragrance 1 1,0 Sodium Chloride 0.3 Sodium hydroxide 0.05 Tetrasodium EDTU 0.02 Tetrasodium ethidronate 0.02 Water 100 each

Soap

Raw materials % of the mass. Sodium Tallowat 40-45 Sodium palm kernel 20-27 Talc 10-15 Coconut Acid 3-4 Sodium Miret Sulfate 1-2 Decyl glucoside 1-2 Glycerol 1-2 Prunus dulcis 0.5-1 Tetrasodium EDTU 0.02-0.05 Tetrasodium ethidronate 0.02-0.05 VNT 0.02-0.05 CL77891 0.3-0.5 Perfume 1,0 Water 100 each

Examples of compositions for the impregnation of napkins

Components one 2 3 four Phase 1 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.1 0.1 0.1 - Tridecet-9 0.1 0.1 0.1 - Perfume 0.3 0.1 0.1 0.1 Phase 2 Hexillaurate 2.0 - - - Dicapryl carbonate - - 2.0 - 1 - (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propan-1,3-dione (Parsol® 1789) - - 1,0 - 3- (4'-methoxybenzylidene) -D, L-camphor - - 1,5 - Dipropylene glycol - 2.0 - - Dihydroxyacetone - 1,0 - - Phase 3 Panthenol 0.5 - - - Citric Acid (Monohydrate) 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 Trisodium citrate (dihydrate) 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Sodium salicylate 0.45 - - - Decyl glucoside - - - 2.0 Kaomint 2.0 1,0 1,0 2.0 Calmosensin 0.5 1,0 0.5 - C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymer - - - 0.2 Microscrub PC 50 - - - 1,0 Fragrance 2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Water 100 each 100 each 100 each 100 each

With these impregnating compositions, various non-woven viscose fabrics are applied. Performed perforated, non-perforated, single layer, two-layer and three-layer non-woven materials. Wipes use both wet wipes and dry wipes (that is, after sizing, the wipes are dried to a residual water content of less than 10 wt%, preferably less than 5 wt%).

Example 1 is an impregnating composition for a lotion wipe and makeup remover.

Example 2 is an impregnating composition for napkins with means for tanning.

Example 3 presents an impregnating composition for napkins with sunscreen.

Example 4 presents an impregnating composition for napkins with a cleaning agent and peeling.

Odor test

To confirm the effectiveness of the obtained aromatic composition P3E, which along with aromatic substances contains 1% of the mass. ester of (Z) -3-hexenylsilicic acid according to claim 1. Similarly, the comparative aromatic composition of P3V is made up; however, instead of the (Z) -3-hexenylsilicic acid ester according to claim 1, it contains dipropylene glycol in an amount of 1% by weight.

Imitation of harassment of odor in a humid and warm environment (similar conditions in the forearm)

From aromatic compositions P3E and P3V, respectively, the same amounts are given on filter paper. Then the filter paper is placed in a Petri dish, approximately half filled with water. At the same time, attention is drawn to the fact that the filter paper does not sag or come into contact with the liquid in the Petri dish. The Petri dish is covered with a glass funnel, the pipe of which rose up and closes. Then the test design is placed at a temperature of 37 ° C. After 0, 2, 4, 6, and 24 hours, respectively, the locking element is quickly removed from the funnel pipe and the smell is analyzed.

By points 2, 4, 6, and 24 hours, a higher odor intensity is shown for P3E than for P3V.

Consumer Demand Estimation

In addition, receive a deodorant spray, which contains 1% of the mass. the composition of the aroma P3E or P3V and examined for 14 days on 50 probands.

Test composition of anhydrous deodorant spray (data in% wt.)

According to the invention Comparative test Isopropyl myristate 5,0 5,0 Triethyl citrate 2.9 2.9 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 Simple α- (ethylhexyl) glycerol ether 0.3 0.3 Diglycerin monocaprinate 0.2 0.2 Fragrance P3E 1,0 - Fragrance P3V - 1,0 n-butane 100 each 100 each

The following table presents the final analysis of the deodorant spray in general according to 5 criteria:

Same P3V Deodorant Spray Best The best deodorant spray with P3E Body odor protection 26 10 fourteen The pleasure of aroma 24 9 17 Freshness through the gap 28 7 fifteen time Perception duration 25 10 fifteen Preferences twenty 12 eighteen

In addition, probands are tested with hair shampoo. To do this, obtain aromatic compositions P4E, P4V, P5E and P5V: P4E and P4V represent an aromatic composition with a citrus-green aromatic profile. In addition, P4E contains an ester of (Z) -hexenylsilicic acid and, in addition, an ester of citronellylsilicic acids and an ester of geranylsilicic acids. P4V contains, instead of the silicic acid ester, an appropriate amount of dipropylene glycol. P5E and P5V represent an aromatic composition with a citrus-cosmetic aromatic profile. In addition, P5E contains an ester of (Z) -hexenylsilicic acid and, in addition, an ester of citronellylsilicic acids and an ester of geranylsilicic acids. P5V contains, instead of the silicic acid ester, an appropriate amount of dipropylene glycol. Then get a shampoo with 0.74% of the mass. P4E or 0.74% of the mass. P4V, in addition, shampoo with 0.5% of the mass. P5E or 0.5% of the mass. P5V who experience 30 probands. For this, the hair of the probands according to the standardized method in a one-way method is treated with a test shampoo. For this, the hair of 30 probands is moistened with water and combed hair parted on two sides. The formulation proposed according to the invention (shampoo with 0.74% wt. P4E or shampoo with 0.5% wt. P5E) is applied on the first side and the comparative formulation (shampoo with 0.74% wt. P4V or shampoo with 0 is applied on the other side 5% by weight of P5V). Otherwise, the hair of the test persons is treated identically, that is, the shampoo is injected into the hair for 1 minute. Then the hair is thoroughly rinsed with water and dried. The analysis is carried out respectively independently from each other on 3 persons from special personnel.

The composition of the test shampoo (data in% mass. Such as is):

Texapon® NSO 40,0 40,0 Dehyton®G 6.0 6.0 Polymer JR 400® 0.5 0.5 Cetiol® NOT 0.5 0.5 Ajidew® NL 50 1,0 1,0 Lamesoft® PO 65 3.0 3.0 Gluadin® WQT 2.5 2.5 Lemon acid 0.5 0.5 Sodium benzoate 0.5 0.5 Fragrance P4E or P4V 0.74 - Fragrance P5E or P5V - 0.5 NaCl 0.5 0.5 Water 100 each 100 each

On the one hand, they smell the proposed comparative products according to the invention, in addition, the pleasure of smell (for the test staff) and the intensity of the smell of hair within 24 or 48 hours after treatment with shampoo. Moreover, for pleasure from the odor and the intensity of the odor of hair within 24 and 48 hours after treatment with shampoo, there is a significant preference for the products proposed according to the invention in comparison with comparative products.

Claims (6)

1. A cosmetic composition for treating the skin and / or scalp and / or hair, containing in a suitable cosmetic carrier, at least one silicic acid ester of the formulas I, and / or II, and / or III, and / or IV

characterized in that, respectively, at least one residue R is formed from at least one alcohol, which is selected from the group consisting of (Z) -2-hexene-1-ol, (E) -2-hexene- 1-ol, (Z) -3-hexene-1-ol (leaf alcohol), (E) -3-hexene-1-ol, (Z) -4-hexene-1-ol, (E) -4- hexene-1-ol and 5-hexene-1-ol, and other R residues are a hydrogen atom, and m is taken from the region from 2 to 10 and n is taken from the region from 2 to 10, as well as mixtures thereof, in total from 0.001 to 5 wt.% based on the weight of the cosmetic composition. 2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that at least 10 wt.%, Preferably at least 20 wt.% And in particular preferably more than 40 wt.% Of the residues R is formed from at least at least one alcohol selected from the group consisting of (Z) -2-hexene-1-ol, (E) -2-hexene-1-ol, (Z) -3-hexene-1-ol (leaf alcohol ), (E) -3-hexene-1-ol, (Z) -4-hexene-1-ol, (E) -4-hexene-1-ol and 5-hexene-1-ol, and other R residues are a hydrogen atom, and the value of m is taken from the region from 2 to 10 and n, from the region from 2 to 10, as well as mixtures thereof. 3. The cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that at least 10 wt.%, Preferably at least 20 wt.% And in particular preferably more than 40 wt.% R residues are formed from at least one alcohol selected from (Z) -3-hexene-1-ol (leaf alcohol). 4. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it contains astringents that inhibit the perspiration of salt, in an amount of from 1 to 40 wt.% Per composition. 5. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it contains at least one surfactant. 6. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, especially a composition for cleansing hair and / or skin, characterized in that it contains a combination of at least one anionic surfactant, particularly preferably alkyl ether sulfate, and at least at least one zwitterionic surfactant, particularly preferably cocamidopropyl betaine.