RU2270593C2 - Method of forming clothes fitting individual's body shape - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: manufacture of clothes.

SUBSTANCE: method involves measuring individual's body shape with the use of contact-free three-dimensional measurement apparatus; transmitting measurement data to computer comprising databases on reference points of human body for clothes selected by individual for automatic separation and indication of reference points; determining some of reference points for obtaining size values from measurement data for certain reference points; indicating original of pattern corresponding to standard body shape for specific clothes; introducing body size values into pattern original and altering characteristic points positions so as to generate data on sewing model fully corresponding to individual. Method allows sewing model maximally fitting individual's body shape to be automatically produced.

EFFECT: simplified and fast forming and production of clothes fully fitting individual's body shape.

2 cl, 4 dwg, 3 tbl

Description

The present invention relates to a method of forming a garment corresponding to the shape of the body of an individual, and more particularly to the aforementioned method for preparing a fully automatically and quickly sewing model that is best adapted to the shape of the body of the individual through the use of a non-contact three-dimensional measurements of the whole body using a computer.

Garments, such as corsets, belts, bras, leotards, etc., generally come in many sizes, of which each individual, as a client, chooses and uses one that he believes is best suited to fit his body. However, the sizes of such garments are represented only by the lengths in the girth (circumference) of the limited body parts for a standard body, for example, the length in girth at the level of the bust, the length in girth under the bust, the circumference of the waist, the circumference of the hips, etc., and therefore for each individual it’s hard to get that which can be precisely fitted to his body.

Under these conditions, individual (on request) fitting of such items of clothing prevails to ensure full compliance with the body of each person wearing certain clothes, or the client, and lately, preference is given to high-quality items of clothing.

For custom tailored customization in the traditional way, as is the case with clothing (costume or dress) manufacturing (Japanese Patent Publication 4-23001B or US Patent 4,586,650), it was common practice to measure the person wearing certain clothing to compare with the sizes of the standard quality product determined in advance, and partially correct them based on the accumulated data for the points of sewing patterns that define the standard quality product.

According to the custom fit method for the order mentioned above, a garment, such as a corset, obtained in this way can be adapted to the shape of the body of a person wearing certain clothes. However, due to the diversity of body shapes, a corset tailored to the shape of the body of one subject as such will not necessarily correspond to an ideal, properly balanced body shape.

The applicant of the present invention previously proposed a manufacturing method that meets the trends in style and preference for high quality garments, such as corsets, by introducing the concept of the desired ideal body shape, as visually observed by the subject wearing certain clothes, but not satisfying a simple adaptation to the body shape, according to the method, the measurement data are compared with previously accumulated data in the computer and such corrections are performed that provide the desired ideal balanced body shape within boundaries not exceeding the limits of correction, limited by the physical nature and body shape of the subject (Japanese Patent Publication 6-2432912A, currently Japan Patent No. 2683860).

This method requires the preliminary accumulation and storage of databases in the computer for three-dimensional body shapes in each ideal state of wearing clothes, corresponding to many body shapes and dimensional data at possible body positions. As a result, inevitably requires a lot of experience, as well as complex work that requires time.

Based on the foregoing, the aim of the present invention is to provide the possibility of preparing a sewing model that is adaptable to the shape of the body of an individual completely automatically and with high speed using a computer, by creating a method according to which automatically selected reference points of the human body are obtained, the required values of body size are obtained for certain reference points and enter them into the original template (basic sewing model corresponding to a standard body) of a garment, such as a corset, and located in the computer, thereby ensuring the manufacture of a garment, such as a corset, suitable for the body shape of the individual.

To achieve the above object, the present invention comprises a method of manufacturing a garment, for example a corset, suitable for the shape of the body of an individual, according to which measure the entire surface of the body of the individual in tight underwear or without underwear using a system of non-contact three-dimensional measurements of the whole body; transmit electronic measurement data thus obtained to a computer where databases of reference points of the human body for a garment, such as corsets, are stored; display on the screen automatically selected (highlighted) reference points corresponding to the sewing model of the garment, for example a corset, selected by the individual; determining some of the reference points to automatically obtain the corresponding size values for the determined reference points from the measurement data; display the corresponding sewing model for the selected garment, for example a corset identified by the product number (garment) corresponding to the standard body shape available on the computer; the mentioned values of the individual size are automatically entered into the original of the template and the position of the characteristic points of the original of the template is changed in accordance with the reference points of the body so that the sizes of the sewing model that exactly match the individual can be obtained; then transmitting the template data thus obtained to an automatic cutter for cutting the fabric into pieces of fabric; and make a corset from them.

Further, the second means of achieving this goal is to use the adjustment table to adapt the dimension values to the fabric material and to the sewing specification for use in the product number; moreover, the adjustment table is prepared previously.

In accordance with the aforementioned means of achieving the object of the invention, characteristic points of respective garments such as corsets, belts, bras, leotards, etc .; automatically obtain the values of the body size of the individual at these characteristic points; display the original template (basic sewing model corresponding to the body shape with standard sizes) of the corresponding product number available on the computer; values of the body size of the individual are automatically entered into the original of the template and the characteristic points of the original of the template are changed in such a way as to adapt it to the individual; and as a result receive the template data (models) inherent in the individual himself.

It can often happen that simply introducing body size values into the original of the template as a result does not provide adaptation to the material used for a given product number or in the sewing specification. Therefore, preliminary preparation of the adjustment table is preferable in order to avoid such cases and adjust the values of body sizes in accordance with this table.

The model data obtained in this way are transmitted through a local computer network to an automatic cutter for fabric cutting, while the required item of clothing, for example, a corset, precisely tailored to the individual, can be made.

The manufacturing method corresponding to this invention can provide a garment, such as a corset, best suited to the individual wearing it, because the individual body dimensions at certain reference points are entered in the original data of the template of the corresponding garment, such as a corset, and in the original image the position of the mentioned reference points are displayed and changed so that it is possible to obtain the template data best suited for indie widum. Therefore, it is possible to make such a garment, for example a corset, which is not only adapted to the individual, but can also be worn comfortably, displaying a precisely balanced body shape and without causing any unnatural compression.

It is also possible to carry out more effective adaptation to the body shape of the individual by using the adjustment table when entering the values of the body size in the original template.

The invention is explained below in more detail with reference to the drawings.

FIG. 1 is a perspective view showing an example of a non-contact whole body measurement device used in the body size measuring step of the invention.

Figure 2 shows an example of the manufacture of the belt, illustrating the step of displaying the characteristic points of the front and rear sides of the lower body.

Figure 3 shows another example of the manufacture of a bra, illustrating the step of displaying the characteristic points of the front and rear sides of the upper body.

Figure 4 shows an example of a pattern obtained by the method according to the invention.

A method of manufacturing a garment, such as a corset, in accordance with the present invention begins with measuring the body of an individual wishing to wear such a garment, such as a corset, in tight underwear or without underwear using a known whole body non-contact measurement device, as shown in FIG. .one.

As shown in FIG. 1, the entire body non-contact measurement device comprises a remote sensing ring 2 comprising a light source and a diode location detector arranged in a horizontal plane (XY plane) perpendicular to the lead screws (Z axis); a plurality of detector heads 1 located on the inner side of the ring 2 in a mutually equidistant ratio relative to the lead screws; a guide rod 3 for orienting the distance measuring ring 2 in the axial direction of the lead screws; a drive mechanism (not shown) for moving the ring 2 along the guide rods 3; and measuring means (not shown) for calculating the corresponding distances to the surfaces of the person’s body M, for which measurements are made, based on the detected signals of the detection heads 1, thereby measuring (determining) the three-dimensional configuration of the person M.

Detecting heads 1, made inside the ring 2 remote measurements, give the corresponding detected signals corresponding to the distances to the person M, for which the measurements are made. Moreover, since the detection heads 1 move together with the ring 2 along the guide rod 3, it is possible to obtain detection signals corresponding to the three-dimensional configuration of the body of the person M, and therefore the three-dimensional configuration of the body, including the surfaces of the whole body and all the measurements in girth, can be measured based on detected signals.

Thus obtained three-dimensional configuration of the body of the person M in the form of coordinate values X, Y, Z is transmitted via a communication network, such as the Internet, to a computer belonging to the unit for the preparation of the sewing model.

On the computer in the specified unit, reference points are displayed on the body (upper and / or lower parts, depending on the type of garment, for example a corset) by automatically highlighting (selecting) characteristic body points corresponding to the sewing model for a particular garment, for example a corset, selected by person.

Figures 2 and 3 show examples of reference points of the body in the case of a belt and a bra, respectively, which form characteristic points when they are used (worn). Figure 2 shows the characteristic points of the belt LG01-LG18 (see Table 1), and figure 3 shows the characteristic points of the bra BR01-BR15 (see Table 2).

Table 1
Anchor points for the belt Lg01 Front waist Lg10 Posterior bulge at abdominal level LG02 Waist side Lg11 Back at abdominal level (LG08) LG03 Waist back Lg12 Front crotch LG04 In front of the hips (LG07) LG13 Side at the perineum LG05 Hip side Lg14 Perineal posterior bulge LG06 Thigh bulge Lg15 Rear crotch LG07 Hip Lg16 Hip front LG08 Lower abdominal region LG17 Hip back LG09 Side of the abdominal region Lg18 Hip lower front

table 2
Anchor points for bra BR01 Front point of the throat BR09 Back center line BR02 Shoulder edge BR10 Front center line BR03 Armpit in front BR11 Under the bust BR04 Bust center BR12 Side edges under the bust BR05 Nipple (top of bust) BR13 Side point near BR12 BR06 Side edges at the top of the bust BR14 The lower point of the humerus (borderline with part of the bra) BR07 Side point near BR06 BR08 The upper point of the humerus (borderline with part of the bra) BR15 The back center line at BR12

On a computer screen displaying the reference points of a particular garment, such as a corset, when the required reference points for a garment, such as a corset, are determined, the values of the body dimensions are automatically displayed based on the above measurement data. For example, in the case of a belt, the following reference points are determined and the values of the dimensions of the body at various positions of the body are automatically displayed:

a) LG02: waist belt length;

b) LG06: hip belt length;

c) LG02 - LG09: mid-length in front;

d) LG16: hips;

e) LG12-LG18: the length of the leg part from the inside;

f) LG01, LG02: waist / width ratio;

g) LG04, LG05: thigh width / thickness ratio;

h) LG06 (left and right): distance between the bulge points at the back.

Then, from the template originals prepared according to the body shape with standard body sizes and available on the computer in the model training unit, the original template for the garment under consideration is displayed, for example, a belt (identified by the product number). In the original of the template, the corresponding values of the dimensions of the body at certain reference points are entered, and in order to obtain model data that is exactly suitable for person M, the positions of the reference points on this original of the template are changed.

At the moment, when entering body size values, the positions of reference points can be changed in accordance with the adjustment table previously prepared so as to optimize additional variables, such as fabric and sewing specifications, for use with respect to the garment.

The model data obtained in this way are then transmitted over the local network to the automatic cutter, where the fabric is cut and then sewn to obtain the desired product.

The above example is described based on the reference points of the belt shown in figure 2, however, these models can be similarly prepared for other items of clothing. For example, in the case of the bra shown in FIG. 3, reference points are used (BR01-BR15), and necessary reference points are determined to obtain model data.

An example implementation of the manufacturing method corresponding to the present invention is described below for the belt.

First, the body size of a client wearing tight-fitting underwear was measured using a non-contact whole-body measurement device ("Cousette C192" manufactured by Hokuriku STR Cooperative) to obtain the measured values.

On the computer in the training department of the sewing model, reference points characteristic of the body, respectively, of the sewing model for the belt (see Table 1) were automatically allocated, and their images were displayed on the screen, as shown in figure 2. The obtained measurement data was transmitted over the Internet to the specified computer. Some of the reference points were determined and the measured values of the body dimensions at certain reference points were displayed, as shown in Table 3.

Then, the original of the belt template, identified by the product number, was displayed from the product numbers available on the computer, and the measured values of body sizes were automatically entered into the original of the template. On the computer, the positions of the reference points of the original template were changed according to the corresponding ratios of the sizes of the original template to the body sizes of the individual (client). As a result, a sewing model data set was obtained that was adapted (fitted) to the individual, as shown in Table 3.

Table 3
Sample sewing model data for an individual Name Reference points Template Original Data Measured data Body size Template size Body size Template size Waist circumference LG02 70.00 cm 30.08 cm 63.08 cm 27.13 cm Hips LG06 90.00 cm 40.69 cm 89.15 cm 40.32 cm Mid Length Front LG02-LG09 25.00 cm 23.27 cm 23.55 cm 22.14 cm Hips Lg16 50.00 cm 44.35 cm 50.65 cm 44.94 cm Leg Length Top LG12-LG18 15.00 cm 13.00 cm 15.00 cm 13.00 cm Width / Thickness Ratio at Waist LG01, LG02 1.28 18.2 gr 1.39 23.9 gr Side Width / Thickness Ratio LG04, LG05 1,02 1.37 Back convex distance LG06 (left and right) 8.40 cm 8.30 cm 8.30 cm 8.26 cm

The sewing model data obtained in this way for the individual were transmitted via a local network to the automatic cutter, where the fabric was cut in accordance with the data obtained into pieces of fabric, followed by the manufacture of the required belt.

The product in the form of a belt, made in this way, was precisely tailored to the individual and provided high wearing comfort for this person.

Claims (2)

1. A method of manufacturing a garment suitable for the shape of the body of an individual, according to which measure the entire surface of the body of the individual in tight underwear or without underwear using a system of non-contact three-dimensional measurements of the whole body; preparing sewing model data from the obtained electronic measurement data; then transmit the data of the sewing model to the automatic cutter for cutting the fabric into pieces of fabric and making an article of clothing, characterized in that the preparation of the data of the sewing model is carried out by transmitting measurement data to a computer that stores databases of reference points characteristic of the human body, in relation to this item of clothing; display on the screen automatically selected reference points corresponding to the sewing model of the garment selected by the individual; determining some of the reference points to automatically obtain the corresponding size values for certain reference points from the measurement data; displaying the sewing model for the product number of the selected garment corresponding to the standard body shape available on the computer and indicating standard body sizes; automatically entering the values of the individual’s sizes in the original of the template and changing the positions of the characteristic points on the original of the template in accordance with the reference points of the body to generate sizes of the sewing model that exactly matches the individual, with the preparation of data of the sewing model. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that when entering the dimension values into the original template, an adjustment table is used to adapt the dimension values to the fabric material and to the sewing specification for use in the product number, the adjustment table being prepared in advance.

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