JPH0154448B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

[Technical Field of the Invention] The present invention relates to a slub yarn produced using a fluid entangling nozzle using a false-twisted low-crimp processed yarn made of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn. [Prior art and its problems] Many slub yarns using thermoplastic multifilament yarns and their manufacturing methods have been proposed, but with the recent diversification and individualization of fashions, they have once again been in the spotlight. ing. One method is to false-twist the two yarns by giving them a feed difference and partially forming triple windings, but the slab shape is rectangular and the thickness is uniform, resulting in an unnatural shape. . Further, the triple-wound portion also has the disadvantage that its form is unstable and its high-order processability is poor. There is also a method that uses turbulent entanglement processing technology to temporarily store excess supplied multifilament yarn in a negative pressure box, and then sends out the stored amount intermittently and turbulently entangles it to produce slub yarn. . Unlike the above technology, this method can form a soft and bulky slab part, but it is difficult to control the excess supply of filament yarn stored in the negative pressure box, and the processed yarn is unstable. It was hot. In addition, with a yarn consisting of two constituent yarns, one yarn is intermittently oversupplied and subjected to turbulent entanglement treatment with other constituent yarns, thereby forming a bulky portion partially due to a loop-like material. A method is known in which it is made into yarn, but the bulky yarn part becomes spindle-shaped, giving it the appearance of a luxurious slub yarn.
However, since the two component yarns are raw silk, the non-bulky yarn portions do not have a firm bulge and have a waxy texture with a large slimy feel. In addition, since the loop-like material in the bulky yarn portion is raw silk, it becomes fluffy and results in a decrease in the quality of the slab. In order to overcome these drawbacks, attempts have been made to use false twisted yarn as the yarn forming the loop-like material in the bulky yarn portion, as disclosed in, for example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 31032/1983. However, since ordinary false-twisted yarn is used, loops and creases occur frequently even in the non-bulky yarn part, two aligned yarns tend to separate, and furthermore, when made into a fabric, it has poor drapability. This results in a soft texture, which actually lowers the quality of the product. [Object of the present invention] The object of the present invention is to improve the shortcomings of the prior art, to stably form a spindle-shaped soft slab portion with extremely high bulkiness, and to provide appropriate bulge and drape between the slabs. It is a slub yarn that has a silk-like texture as a whole, with a straight part without crimp, and by weaving it, we can create a yarn that is extremely similar to high-quality chintane-style fabric made of real silk. To easily manufacture and provide a fabric with high commercial value at low cost. [Configuration of the present invention] The present invention has the following configuration to achieve the above object. That is, the slub yarn of the present invention is a slub yarn consisting of at least two multifilament yarns, each of which has a stretch recovery rate of 20% or less, and at least one of the The yarn is a false twisted crimped yarn, and the slub yarn is composed of a bulky yarn section and a non-bulky yarn section, and the bulky yarn section is composed of the constituent fibers of the false twisted crimped yarn. It is made up of a collection of a large number of thread-like bodies, some or all of which are twisted and protrude in the form of loops, and the non-bulky yarn portion exhibits some intertwined yarn structure, but there are almost no threads, crimps, loops, etc. The slub yarn is characterized in that the slub yarn is substantially bundled with parallel fibers, and the method for producing the slub yarn of the present invention is characterized in that at least one yarn is made of a false twisted crimped yarn. When a plurality of multifilament yarns are supplied separately and all the yarns are simultaneously entangled in a fluid entangling nozzle, the amount of the false twisted crimped yarn supplied to the fluid entangling nozzle is changed, and The amount of fluid supplied is substantially always constant, and the false-twisted crimped yarn is passed through the nozzle in a state where the crimp is extremely reduced or disappears, and when the crimp is still evident. This method of manufacturing a slub yarn is characterized in that the steps of passing the yarn through the nozzle are repeated at predetermined intervals or irregular intervals. Next, the configuration of the present invention will be explained in detail. As mentioned above, the present invention is a slub yarn, but each of the constituent fibers has a bulky, soft, spun slub-like texture made by aggregating a large number of kinks that protrude in a twisted loop shape. The jointed joints and the spaces between the joints exhibit a straight shape with almost no crimps or kinks, and are intended to be raw silk-like slub yarns. This is a new slub yarn that has a lifting effect. Moreover, it is characterized in that it can be easily manufactured using false twisted crimped yarn and regular yarn manufactured under special conditions. In the present invention, the large number of rib-shaped bodies protruding in the twisted loop shape described above are formed by part or all of the constituent fibers of the false twisted crimped yarn. The material of the constituent yarns constituting the slub yarn of the present invention is:
There are no particular limitations, and any of natural fibers, recycled fibers, and synthetic fibers may be used. Furthermore, there are no particular restrictions on the fineness, the number of filaments, etc. Further, the material of the false twisted crimped yarn used in the slub yarn of the present invention may be any thermoplastic synthetic fiber such as polyester or nylon. The slub yarn of the present invention only needs to include at least two multifilament yarns, but
All of the constituent threads must have a stretch recovery rate of 20% or less, and at least one constituent thread must have false twist crimp. This is because if the stretch recovery rate of the constituent yarns exceeds 20%, the non-bulky yarn portions will feel bulky and lose their drapability. It seems that the shrinkage has weakened, but after making it into cloth,
When heat treatment is applied, latent crimp becomes apparent and the texture deteriorates. Even in the bulky thread portion, the intertwining condition becomes poor and the shape becomes unstable. In addition, the non-bulky yarn portion in which the stretch recovery rate of all the constituent yarns is 0% tends to sag and does not have bulk, resulting in a waxy texture and a slimy feel. In addition, loop-like materials in the bulky thread portion become fluffy, which deteriorates the quality of the slab. In addition, even if the constituent yarns forming the loop-like material in the bulky thread part are crimped, if they are not false-twisted and crimped, they will not become a snal-like material, so the bulky thread part will not express suppleness. It cannot be a high quality slab. Next, in the bulky yarn portion, the length of at least one of the constituent yarns, the false twisted crimped yarn, must be at least 1.5 times the length of the bulky yarn portion, and must be intertwined. If it is less than 1.5 times, the rate of occurrence of loop-like objects is small, and the loop-like objects themselves are small, resulting in poor visual effect as a slab and making it difficult to call it a slab. Furthermore, in the non-bulky yarn portion, the length of all constituent yarns must be 1.1 times or less the length of the non-bulky yarn portion. If it is 1.1 times or more, the drawn component yarns tend to separate and the processability deteriorates, and even if they are intertwined, the slack will not be eliminated, and even smaller loops will be created, causing a snap effect and unraveling. Physical condition becomes extremely poor. Moreover, when it is made of cloth, the entire surface becomes rough and the quality deteriorates. More preferably, the single yarn fineness of the yarn having false twist crimp is 2 denier or less. This directly affects the feel of the bulky yarn portion, and if it exceeds 2 deniers, it tends to have a rough and hard feel. More preferably, the elongation of the yarn to become the core in the bulky yarn portion should be 50% or less. This is because the shape of the slab needs to be stable after processing, and if it exceeds 50%, the shape retention of the slab will deteriorate. What is more important regarding the false twisted crimped yarn used in the present invention is the crimp strength.
Specifically, when manufacturing the slub part in the process of manufacturing slub yarn, crimp exists and the torque force causes crimped snarl, and when manufacturing the straight part, crimping occurs. The crimp must disappear or be extremely reduced when subjected to stretching action. In other words, it is preferable that the material has low crimpability. In accordance with the JIS method, the yarn to be measured is wrapped in a skein wound 20 times and subjected to hot water heat treatment for 20 minutes in a relaxed state (in the case of polyethylene terephthalate).
This is the value calculated by measuring according to the JIS method after drying at room temperature (90℃ for nylon 6, 60℃ for other materials, set as appropriate). However, if it is not possible to take the skein as described above, perform the same hot water heat treatment on a length that can be sampled, and measure and calculate using the same load. There are several ways to obtain false twisted crimped yarn suitable for use in the present invention. For example, multifilament yarn processed under normal false twisting conditions is modified, Items processed to weaken the heat setting effect of twisting, items processed to significantly reduce heat setting time compared to normal false twisting, items processed to significantly reduce the number of false twists compared to normal false twisting, etc. There is. Among these, those processed at a lower false-twisting temperature than usual are particularly effective; in the case of polyethylene terephthalate yarn, false-twisted yarns processed at temperatures below 170°C and with a stretch recovery rate of 20% or less have considerable elasticity immediately after processing. However, when producing slub yarn, loops and snals are likely to occur, but in the non-bulk yarn part, it takes on a loose wave-like form.
Even if it is heat-treated after being made into a fabric, it does not have the thick, loose feel of normal false twisted yarn, and has a soft drapey texture. Next, to explain in detail the method for manufacturing the slub yarn of the present invention, in the present invention, at least the ordinary multifilament yarn and the false twisted yarn having special conditions are separately supplied to the fluid entangling nozzle, as described above. However, when performing the entanglement process, the amount of fluid supplied to the fluid entanglement nozzle is kept substantially constant, and the false twisted crimped yarn is passed through the nozzle in a state where the crimp is extremely small or has disappeared. This method alternately repeats at regular or irregular intervals passing through a nozzle while the crimp is fully exposed, and one of the threads is basically fed constantly. It is something to do. Here, in particular, a method of supplying the false twisted crimped yarn in the above state is possible by arbitrarily changing the amount of the false twisted crimped yarn supplied to the nozzle. A tensor device or a yarn path change guide is provided on the upstream side of the nozzle on the supply path of the twisted crimped yarn, and the tensor device can be opened and closed at arbitrary intervals, or the yarn path guide can be changed at arbitrary intervals. This can be done by displacing the object over a distance of . At this time, when making the slab part, it is preferable that the amount of false twisted crimped yarn supplied has an overfeed rate of at least 50% compared to the amount of other yarns (normal multifilament yarn), and When making a straight part (non-bulky part), it is preferable that the difference in supply amount between the two is 10% or less. Further, the fluid entangling nozzle used in the present invention may be any type as long as it interlaces yarns under turbulent flow using compressed air, and particularly preferred is a fluid entangling nozzle having a yarn feeding function. Next, a specific example of the method for manufacturing slub yarn according to the present invention will be explained with reference to the drawings. FIG. 3 shows one embodiment of the multifilament yarn, in which the multifilament yarn is fed by a feed roller 3 and guided to a turbulent entangling nozzle 9. After the multifilament yarn B is false-twisted between rollers 4 and 5, it is relaxed and tensioned between rollers 5 and a tensor 8 that opens and closes intermittently, and when the tensor is closed, it is stored during this time. be done. After that, the multifilament yarn B is
It is guided to the turbulent entangling nozzle 9 and is entangled simultaneously with the multifilament yarn A to form a slub yarn. FIG. 4 shows a case where a resistance guide 11 is installed on the upstream side of the tensor, and is intended to provide passage resistance to the false twisted crimped yarn and further enhance the effects of the present invention. The above false-twisting processing conditions may be set so as to obtain the above-mentioned false-twisted yarn, and if the above-mentioned false-twisted yarn is available in advance,
The false twisting step consisting of steps 5, 6, and 7 may be omitted. The slub yarn obtained by this method has a structure as shown in FIG. 1, where 1 is a bulky yarn portion, and as shown in the enlarged view of FIG. 2, it is a loop-shaped yarn with crimps. It protrudes in a so-called snar shape and exhibits bulk. 2 is the non-bulky thread part; 2
The threads are aligned and substantially form a bundle of parallel fibers,
It has no loops, fuzz, sagging, etc. As another manufacturing method, the yarn path can also be changed by removing the tensioner 8 and vertically displacing the rod 12 at the center of the guide 11 in FIG. 4, so that the present invention can be carried out. can. The basic supply amount of yarn can be determined by the speed difference between the supply rollers 4 and 5 and the take-off roller 10. [Operations and functions of the present invention] Since the present invention uses a device having the above-described structure, first, the multifilament yarn B is
is supplied between the false twisting device and the tensor or yarn path changing guide that opens and closes intermittently, and when the tensor is closed or the yarn path changing guide is greatly displaced, the turbulent entangling nozzle has a pulling force. The pulling force is not directly transmitted upstream of the tensor, and the false-twisted yarn is pulled into the nozzle under tension and entangled with no crimp, while the yarn between the false-twisting area and the tensor, etc. It becomes an overfeed state and is stored in a relaxed state during this time. However, since the yarn develops its own crimps and contracts, it can be stored without changing the yarn path, so the yarn processability is good and there are no problems such as yarn breakage or yarn entanglement. On the other hand, when the tensor opens or the guide returns to its original position, the nozzle's take-up force is directly transmitted to the relaxed region, and the excess supply of multifilament yarn B that has been stored is rapidly transferred into the nozzle. Vacuum excess and make a slab. In this way, the length of the slabs and the length between the slabs can be controlled by operating the tensor and the yarn path changing guide. If the tensor or the like closes before the entangling nozzle has completely sucked up the excess supply of multifilament yarn B, the opening time of the tensor will correspond to the slab length. For the excess supply of the relaxed state region that the nozzle could not suction, the next time the tensor opens, the nozzle will increase the amount of excess suction of the multifilament yarn B, keeping the amount stored in the relaxed state region at an appropriate amount. self-control. In addition, if a resistance guide is placed upstream of the tensor, when the tensor opens and the nozzle excessively suctions the multifilament yarn B, it is suitable for controlling the suction speed to an appropriate level and forming a slab length corresponding to the tensor opening time. There is. [Effects of the present invention] With the above-described configuration and functions, the present invention provides a yarn having the following excellent effects. (1) This is a slub yarn that uses turbulent entanglement technology and has spindle-shaped slabs with bulk. (2) Because it utilizes false twist crimp, the constituent filaments of the slab protrude in a loop or snal shape, giving it a soft texture. (3) Even in the slab part, each yarn always becomes a core yarn, and its shape retention is high against tension. (4) The ground yarn section is a state in which the false twisted yarn whose crimp has disappeared and the raw silk are aligned, and these two yarns are hardly intertwined, or even if they are intertwined, they can be clearly distinguished from the slab section. It is a form. It also has a soft and bulky feel. (5) In the ground yarn part, the false twisted yarn has a loose wave-like form and has a silk-like luster and feel. (6) The slab part is more strongly intertwined than the ground thread part, and the slab has high morphological stability. (7) The loop-shaped material in the slab part is twisted, creating a so-called snal shape, resulting in a smooth texture.
Moreover, the snal-like material becomes rounded and soft due to the false twist crimp. (8) If the single yarn fineness of the false twisted crimped yarn is 2 denier or less, a softer slab will be obtained, and if the fineness is the same, the number of constituent fibers will increase, resulting in a dense slab. (9) The fabric has a silk-like texture with rich drapability, making it a luxurious slab fabric. [Example] Specific examples of the present invention will be explained below using Examples. Example 1 Using the apparatus shown in FIG. 3, polyethylene terephthalate yarn (50d-24f) was used as yarn A,
Using the same yarn (58d-48f) as yarn B, slab processing was performed under the following conditions. Surface speed of supply roller 3 153 m/min Surface speed of roller 4 163 m/min Surface speed of roller 5 159 m/min Surface speed of take-up roller 10 150 m/min Number of false twists 2200 T/m False twist temperature 160°C Turbulent entangling nozzle pressure 4.0Kg/cm ² G Tensor opening time 0.04sec Tensor closing time 0.6~0.8sec The produced slub yarn has an average fineness of 102 denier,
The slab portion had an average slab fineness of 145 denier and was soft and bulky in the shape of a spindle. Fabrics made using this slub yarn have a rich variety of slanted textures, and are soft and elegant. Example 2 Using the same equipment, yarn, and processing conditions as in Example 1, the opening time and closing time of the tensor were set at 0.02 to 0.06 sec, respectively.
0.8 to 1.0 sec, and a slub yarn was produced. The manufactured slub yarn has an average fineness of 102 denier.
The slab portion had an average slab fineness of 160 denier, and could be stably manufactured as in Example 1. Example 3 Using the apparatus shown in FIG. 4, polyethylene terephthalate 50d-24f was used as multifilament yarn A.
Slab yarn was produced using polyethylene terephthalate 100d-48f as multifilament yarn B under the following conditions. Surface speed of supply roller 3 142 m/min Surface speed of roller 4 147 m/min Surface speed of roller 5 145 m/min Surface speed of take-up roller 10 140 m/min Number of false twists 1800 T/m False twist temperature 160°C Turbulent entangling nozzle pressure 4.0Kg/cm ² G Tensor opening time 0.01 to 0.04sec Tensor closing time 1.3 to 2.1sec The produced slub yarn has an average fineness of 153 denier,
The slab part has an average slab fineness of 400 denier, making it very bulky yet soft, and the ground yarn part also has a refreshing texture. Examples 4 to 7 In FIG. 4, the tensioner 8 is removed and the guide 1
The bar 12 of No. 1 was moved up and down and used as a feed amount changing device. In Example 4, with this device, polyethylene terephthalate yarn (50d-48f) was used as filament B, and the same yarn (50d-24f) was used as filament A.
It was used. The processing conditions are as follows. Surface speed of roller 4 148 m/min Surface speed of roller 3 142 m/min Surface speed of roller 10 140 m/min Air pressure of turbulent entangling nozzle 9 4.0 Kg/cm ² G False twist number 2500 T/m, false twist temperature 160°C A false twisted yarn with a stretch recovery rate of 3.0% was obtained. bar 12
The vertical movement distance is 6 to 10 cm, and when rising is 2.5 m/
I set it to a speed of 1 minute and to return instantly when descending. The bulk yarn part of the manufactured slub yarn has snal-like objects that protrude, forming a voluminous and supple slub part, while the non-bulk yarn part has silk-like luster, drapability, and a moderate sense of fullness, and the overall texture is Created a luxurious slub yarn. Next, a slub yarn produced by changing the supply system will be described. As Example 5, the number of false twists of supplied yarn B was changed to 1500T/m under the conditions of Example 4, and the expansion and contraction recovery rate was
Manufactured using 6.0% false twisted yarn. In the bulky part, the loop-like material resembles the texture of processed raw silk, but due to the torque due to false twisting, the loop-like material tends to become twisted and soft, and both have bulky properties. The non-bulk portions were all supple silk-like lustrous slub yarns. In addition, as Example 6, the same false twisted yarn as B was used as the supply yarn A, and as Example 7, the number of filaments of the supply yarn B was changed to 18, and slub yarn was used in accordance with Example 4. was manufactured. As a comparative example for this, in Example 4, raw silk (yarn without false twisting) was used for both supply yarns A and B (no false twisting process was used) (Comparative Example 1), and in Example 4, the false twisting temperature was set at 200°C. ℃ (Comparative Example 2). In Example 4, the surface speed of roller 4 was set to 155.
m/min (comparative example 3) and the same
The speed was changed to 144 m/min (Comparative Example 4) and the results are shown below. () Expansion and contraction recovery rate of false twisted crimped yarn of supplied yarn B The following results were obtained.

【table】 () Characteristics of the bulky thread part Shown in the table below.

【table】 () Characteristics of the non-bulk thread part Shown in the table below.

【table】

【table】 [Brief explanation of drawings]

Fig. 1 is a diagram showing the appearance of the slub yarn obtained by the present invention, Fig. 2 is an enlarged view of the bulky yarn portion in Fig. 1, and Figs. 3 and 4 are schematic diagrams showing an example of an apparatus for carrying out the present invention. It is a diagram. 1...Bulk thread part, 2...Non-bulk thread part,
3, 4... Supply roller, 6... Heater, 7... False twisting device, 8... Tenser, 9... Turbulent entangling nozzle,
10... Take-up roller, 11... Resistance guide, 12
...Movable rod.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A slub yarn consisting of at least two multifilament yarns as constituent yarns, each of which has an elastic recovery rate of 20% or less, and at least one of the yarns has an elastic recovery rate of 20% or less. is a false twisted crimped yarn,
The slub yarn is composed of a bulky yarn portion and a non-bulky yarn portion, and in the bulky yarn portion, some or all of the constituent fibers of the false twisted crimped yarn are twisted and protrude in a loop shape. It is made up of a large number of filth-like bodies gathered together, and the non-bulky yarn portion exhibits a somewhat entangled structure, but there are almost no burrs, crimps, loops, etc., and it is essentially a parallel fiber bundle. A slub yarn characterized by its shape. 2. Claim No. 2, characterized in that the false twisted crimped yarn is contained in a bulky yarn portion with a yarn length that is at least 1.5 times the length of the bulky yarn portion. The slub yarn described in item 1. 3. When a component yarn other than the false-twisted crimped yarn is used, at least one component yarn other than the false-twisted crimped yarn is characterized by having an elongation of 50% or less. A slub yarn according to claim 1. 4. When simultaneously supplying a plurality of multifilament yarns, at least one of which is a false twisted crimped yarn, to the fluid entangling nozzle to simultaneously entangle all the yarns, the false twisted crimped yarn is fed to the fluid entangling nozzle. and the amount of fluid supplied to the fluid entangling nozzle is substantially always constant, and the false twisted crimped yarn is passed through the nozzle in a state where the crimp is extremely reduced or has disappeared. A method for producing a slub yarn, which comprises repeating at predetermined or irregular intervals a case where the slub yarn is crimped, and a case where the slub yarn is allowed to pass through the nozzle while the crimping remains apparent. 5. When changing the feed rate of the false twisted crimped yarn to the fluid entanglement nozzle, the feed rate is repeatedly increased by 50% or more and 10% or less than the feed rate of the yarn other than the false twisted crimped yarn. Claim 4 characterized in that the change is made by
Method for producing slub yarn as described in Section 1. 6. Yarn feeding means is provided before and after the fluid entangling nozzle,
A tensor or a yarn path changing device is provided between the yarn feeding means on the upstream side of the nozzle and the nozzle, and these devices are operated intermittently to change the amount of false twisted crimped yarn supplied to the fluid entanglement nozzle. The method for producing a slub yarn according to claim 4 or 5, characterized in that the method comprises: