FR3132217A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING HIGH QUANTITIES OF TRIFLUOROMETHYLPHENYL VALYLGLYCINE - Google Patents

Abstract

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS INCLUDING HIGH QUANTITIES OF TRIFLUOROMETHYL P HENYL VALYLGLYCINE This disclosure relates to stable cosmetic compositions containing high amounts of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine. The cosmetic compositions further include high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, taurate copolymers, fatty alcohols, fatty compounds (other than fatty alcohols), nonionic emulsifiers, and water. Methods of stabilizing cosmetic compositions containing high amounts of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine and methods of treating the skin with the cosmetic compositions are also disclosed. Figure for the abstract: none.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING HIGH QUANTITIES OF TRIFLUOROMETHYLPHENYL VALYLGLYCINE FIELD OF INVENTION

The present disclosure relates to stable cosmetic compositions that include high amounts of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine; and on methods of stabilizing cosmetic compositions containing high quantities of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine. The present disclosure also describes methods of treating the skin with the cosmetic compositions.

SUMMARY

In one aspect, the present disclosure focuses on, among other things, cosmetic compositions including a surprisingly high amount of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine. Acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine provides a myriad of cosmetic benefits to the skin but it is very difficult to incorporate high quantities of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine into cosmetic compositions and maintain their stability. The inventors of the present disclosure have developed, among other things, surprisingly stable compositions that include high amounts of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine. Due to the high amounts of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, the cosmetic compositions provide exceptional cosmetic properties to the skin, for example, improving elasticity, promoting hyaluronic acid production, collagen synthesis, component synthesis structural functions of the epidermis, regeneration of damaged tissues, and reducing the effects of aging of the skin of the face and body.

In one aspect, the present disclosure focuses on, among other things, a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes:

(a) acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine;

(b) hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(c) two or more taurate copolymers;

(d) one or more fatty alcohols;

(e) one or more fatty compounds;

(f) one or more nonionic emulsifiers; And

(g) water;

wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Non-limiting examples of taurate copolymers include acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include those selected from C ₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols, for example, decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, eicosyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, 2-dodecylhexadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-octadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-eicosanol, 2-hexadecyl-1-octadecanol, 2-hexadecyl-1-eicosanol, octyldodecanol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, and a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds include fatty esters (such as isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (such as petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene , mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, plant and/or vegetable oil, hydrocarbon-based oils (such as isohexadecane), and a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers include alkanolamides, sorbitan fatty esters (such as sorbitan isostearate and sorbitan oleate), ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters (such as polysorbate 80), esters polyol, glyceryl esters, polyglucosides (such as cetearyl glucoside), glycerol ethers, oxyethylenated ethers, oxypropylenated ethers and ethylene glycol polymers.

Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include glycerin, monoalcohols, polyols (such as polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of skin active agents include madecassoside, a moisturizing agent, a depigmentation agent, an anti-wrinkle agent, a skin active agent for oily skin, an antioxidant, a flavonoid, a vitamin, a skin conditioning agent. skin whitening, and a mixture thereof.

Silicones may optionally be included in the cosmetic compositions but preferably the compositions are free or essentially free of silicones. Silicones are synthetic polymers made up of repeating units of siloxane, silicon and elemental oxygen, combined with other elements, most commonly carbon and hydrogen. Thus, silicones are also called polysiloxanes. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions herein may be free or essentially free of dimethicones, amodimethicones, dimethiconols, cyclosiloxanes, siloxanes, etc.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions are part of a kit comprising a cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure and one or more compositions contained separately. In one embodiment, the compositions are received in a device, for example, a device that dispenses the cosmetic composition and the one or more separately contained compositions. In one embodiment, the device dispenses the cosmetic composition and the one or more compositions contained separately without mixing them together before dispensing. Even though high amounts of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine are incorporated into the cosmetic compositions, the compositions are unique in that they are compatible with other cosmetic compositions, in particular, other cosmetic compositions for the treatment of the skin.

Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to methods of stabilizing high amounts of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine in cosmetic compositions. These methods, as described throughout the disclosure, include the incorporation of high amounts of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine into the compositions of the present disclosure.

Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to methods of treating skin. The methods include applying the cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure to the skin. In one embodiment, the methods improve elasticity, promote hyaluronic acid production, collagen synthesis, synthesis of structural components of the epidermis, regeneration of damaged tissues, and reduce the effects of skin aging. skin of the face and body. In some embodiments the methods include strengthening or improving the skin's natural lipid barrier; the treatment of dry and/or aging skin; maintaining and/or improving the water balance of the skin; and/or improving the overall appearance of the skin.

Other characteristic points and iterations of the invention are described in more detail

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

A common problem associated with formulating compositions, particularly a composition comprising multiple components, is ensuring physical stability, chemical stability, solubility, and the like. Many food, cosmetic, personal care and household product additives in which they are incorporated are difficult to stabilize and solubilize, particularly when used in high quantities. The consequence of stability and solubility problems is important. For example, stability issues can cause partial, if not complete, loss of product integrity, loss of color, malodors, viscosity changes, etc. Stability and solubility issues can also cause an increase or decrease in the amount of the component in question that must be applied. When it comes to active ingredients, stability and solubility issues reduce or eliminate activity, and prevent active ingredients from reaching their intended target in the desired amount.

With aging, the outer layer of skin (epidermis) thins, even though the number of cell layers remains unchanged. The number of pigment-containing cells (melanocytes), however, decreases. As a result, the skin appears pale and translucent. Large pigmented spots (age spots, senile spots, or lentigos) may appear in areas exposed to the sun. Changes in connective tissue reduce the firmness and elasticity of the skin. This is known as elastosis. This is more marked in areas exposed to the sun (solar elastosis). Elastose produces the leathery, weathered appearance common to farmers, fishermen and others who spend a lot of time outdoors. Dehydration increases the risk of skin damage. A poor diet can also negatively influence the skin, causing dryness, breakouts and puffiness.

Human skin acts as a primary barrier between the body and its environment. Crucial for this barrier function of the skin is the lipid matrix in the outermost layer of the skin (epidermis), the stratum corneum (SC). Two of its functions are (1) to prevent excessive loss of water through the epidermis and (2) to prevent environmental compounds from penetrating the viable layers of the epidermis and dermis and thus causing an immune response. The composition of the SC lipid matrix is dominated by three classes of lipids: cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides. These lipids adopt a highly ordered three-dimensional structure of densely packed stacked lipid layers (lipid lamellae): the lateral and lamellar lipid organization. How these lipids are ordered depends on the composition of the lipids. A very common skin disease in which the SC lipid barrier is affected is atopic dermatitis (AD).

What is needed, among other things, are compositions that include high amounts of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine that strengthen or improve the skin's natural lipid barrier, treat dry and/or aging skin; maintain and/or improve the skin’s moisture balance; and/or improve the overall appearance of the skin, and others.

In one aspect, the present disclosure focuses on, among other things, a stable cosmetic composition that includes high amounts of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine and methods of stabilizing cosmetic compositions containing high amounts of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine. In one embodiment, the compositions include:

(a) about 1 to about 5% by weight of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine;

(b) about 10 to about 40 weight percent hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(c) about 2 to about 15 weight percent of two or more taurate copolymers;

(d) about 0.5 to about 10% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols;

(e) about 5 to about 25% by weight of one or more fatty compounds;

(f) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers; And

(g) water;

wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

A gel emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion, in which the water phase is a gel and the oil droplets/particles are dispersed in the gel matrix.

(a) Acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine

Although it confers a multitude of beneficial properties to the skin, acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine is difficult to solubilize and therefore difficult to formulate into stable cosmetic compositions. It tends to crystallize from formulations. The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure allow high amounts of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine to be solubilized and stabilized, for example, the compositions carry high amounts of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine and prevent acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine from crystallizing.

The amount of the acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine will vary but in various embodiments is from about 1 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the amount of the acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine is about 1.5 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 2.5 to about 5% by weight, weight, from about 1 to about 4% by weight, from about 1.5 to about 4% by weight, from about 2 to about 4% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 4% by weight, or about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic compositions. In another embodiment, the total amount of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine is about 2.6 to about 3.4% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(b) Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol

Hydroxypropyl tetrapyrantriol is a sugar-protein hybrid made from xylose and can effectively activate the synthesis of GAG (glycosaminoglycans), promote hyaluronic acid production, collagen synthesis, adhesion between dermis and epidermis , the synthesis of structural components of the epidermis, the regeneration of damaged tissues, and maintaining the elasticity of the skin.

The amount of hydroxypropyl tetrapyrantriol in cosmetic compositions will vary but in various embodiments is from about 10% by weight to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount of hydroxypropyl tetrapyrantriol in the composition is about 10 weight percent to about 35 weight percent, about 10 to about 30 weight percent, about 10 to about 25 weight percent, weight, from about 10 to about 20% by weight, from about 12 to about 35% by weight, from about 12 to about 30% by weight, from about 12 to about 25% by weight, from about 12 about 20% by weight, about 12 to about 18% by weight, about 14 to about 30% by weight, about 14 to about 25% by weight, about 14 to about 20% by weight , or from about 14 to about 18% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(c) Taurate copolymers

The cosmetic composition of the present disclosure includes two or more taurate copolymers. These copolymers can act as gelling agents, thickeners, and provide emulsification properties. In particular, the inventors have discovered that taurate copolymers are particularly effective in stabilizing the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure. Further, in some embodiments, it is preferable that at least one of the taurate copolymers functions, at least in part, as a polymer emulsifier and that at least one of the taurate copolymers functions, at least in part in part, as a viscosity increasing/gelling agent.

In a particularly preferred embodiment at least one of two or more taurate copolymers is selected from taurate copolymers which function as polymer emulsifiers, in particular, selected from hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer sodium, a crosslinked copolymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-25 methacrylate, a crosslinked copolymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/beheneth-25 methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of taurate copolymers include acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and a mixture thereof

Taurate copolymers may be hydrophilic and may contain an acrylate component. The at least one taurate copolymer may include, for example, an acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and/or a sodium acrylate copolymer. sodium/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate. In certain cases, at least one taurate copolymer can be obtained from ethylenically unsaturated sulfo-functional monomers and ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers, for example from crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide or methacrylamide and 2-acrylamido acid -2-methyl-propanesulfonic acid.

The total amount of the two or more taurate copolymers will vary but in various embodiments the total amount of the two or more taurate copolymers is from about 2% by weight to about 15% by weight based on the total weight of the composition cosmetic. In additional embodiments, the amount of the two or more taurate copolymers in the cosmetic composition is about 2 to about 12 weight percent, about 2 to about 10 weight percent, about 2 to about 8 % by weight, from about 2 to about 5% by weight, from about 2 to about 4% by weight, from about 2 to about 3% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 15% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 12% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 10% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 8% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 5% by weight weight, or from about 2.5 to about 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In a preferred embodiment, each of the individual taurate copolymers included in the two or more taurate copolymer cosmetic compositions is in a minimum amount of at least 0.7% by weight, preferably at least 0.8 % by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. That is, none of the individual taurate copolymers are present in an amount less than 0.7% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Therefore, in various embodiments, the total amount of the two or more taurate copolymers in the cosmetic composition is from about 2 wt% to about 15 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, provided that each individual taurate copolymer of the two or more taurate copolymers is in an amount of at least 0.7% by weight, preferably at least 0.8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition cosmetic.

In additional embodiments, the amount of the two or more taurate copolymers in the cosmetic composition is about 2 to about 12 weight percent, about 2 to about 10 weight percent, about 2 to about 8 % by weight, from about 2 to about 5% by weight, from about 2 to about 4% by weight, from about 2 to about 3% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 15% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 12% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 10% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 8% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 5% by weight weight, or about 2.5 to about 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, provided that each individual taurate copolymer of the two or more taurate copolymers is in an amount of at least 0.7% by weight, preferably at least 0.8% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In some embodiments, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition includes three or more taurate copolymers. In particular, it is useful to include three or more taurate copolymers selected from an acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, an acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer ammonium/VP, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and a mixture thereof. More preferably, it is useful to use three or more taurate copolymers including an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, an acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and an ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer. sodium hydroxyethyl/acryloyldimethyl taurate. In a particularly preferred embodiment, these three taurate copolymers are included in the following quantities, based on the total weight of the cosmetic compositions:

- 0.1 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 2% by weight of acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer,

- 0.7 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.7 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.8 to 2% by weight of acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and

- 0.1 to approximately 4% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 2% by weight of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises:

- 0.6 to 2% by weight of acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer,

- 0.8 to 2% by weight of acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and

- 0.6 to 2% by weight of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

(d) Fatty alcohols

The cosmetic composition of the present disclosure includes one or more fatty alcohols. The term “fatty alcohol” designates an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylenated (in particular neither oxyethylenated nor oxypropylenated) nor glycerol. The fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, in which R denotes a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl), linear or branched group, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms , more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

Fatty alcohol (fatty alcohols) can be liquid or solid. In certain cases, it is preferable for the cosmetic compositions to include at least one solid fatty alcohol. Solid fatty alcohols that may be used include those that are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (25°C, 780 mmHg), and are insoluble in water, i.e. they have a water solubility of less than 1 % by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm.

Solid fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, in which R denotes a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

Non-limiting examples of useful fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol or lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol); myristic or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol); cerylic alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanylic alcohol (1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol), and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the one or more fatty alcohols have 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Specific non-limiting examples include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristic or myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, or mixtures of these.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition includes one or more solid fatty alcohols, for example chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

Liquid fatty alcohols, especially those containing C10-C34, preferably have branched carbon chains and/or have one or more, preferably 1 to 3 double bonds. They are preferably branched and/or unsaturated (C=C double bond) and contain 12 to 40 carbon atoms.

Liquid fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, in which R denotes a branched C12-C24 alkyl group or an alkenyl group (comprising at least one C=C double bond in C12-C24), R being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated alcohol. Preferably, R does not contain a hydroxyl group. These include oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-1- decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-cetanol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-1-dodecanol.

In certain cases, the cosmetic compositions include one or more fatty alcohols selected from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl, myristyl, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof. In some cases, cosmetic compositions preferably include stearyl alcohol.

The total amount of the one or more fatty alcohols in the cosmetic compositions will vary but in various embodiments is from about 0.5% by weight to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount of one or more fatty alcohols is about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, 0.5 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight, d 'about 1 to about 4% by weight, from about 1% by weight to about 3% by weight, from about 1.5 to about 10% by weight, from about 1.5 to about 8% by weight, from about 1.5 to about 5% by weight, from about 1.5 to about 4% by weight, from about 1.5 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(e) Fatty compounds

The term “fatty compounds” is interchangeable with “fat”. Fatty compounds are known as compounds that are not soluble (or only poorly soluble) in water; they are hydrophilic and are often solubilized in organic solvents. They include materials such as oils, fats, waxes, hydrocarbons, fatty esters, etc. For purposes of this disclosure, "fatty compounds" do not include fatty acids, which are separately referred to above. Additionally, silicones are not considered fatty compounds under this disclosure. Non-limiting examples of useful fatty compounds include oils, waxes, alkanes (paraffins), fatty acids, fatty esters, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, hydrocarbons, derivatives thereof, and mixtures. of these. Fatty compounds are described by the International Federation Societies of Cosmetic Chemists, for example, in Cosmetic Raw Material Analysis and Quality, Volume I: Hydrocarbons, Glycerides, Waxes and Other Esters (Redwood Books, 1994), which is incorporated herein as reference in its entirety.

Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds include oils, mineral oil, alkanes (paraffins), fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, fatty alcohol esters, hydroxy fatty acids. -substituted, waxes, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, and a mixture thereof.

Fatty alcohol derivatives

The fatty compounds may include one or more fatty alcohol derivatives, which are different from fatty alcohols (component (d)). Fatty alcohol derivatives include fatty esters derived from one or more fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol derivatives also include alkoxylated fatty alcohols, for example, having from about 1 to about 100 moles of an alkylene oxide per mole of alkoxylated fatty alcohol. For example, alkoxylated fatty alcohols may be alkoxylated with from about 1 to about 80 moles, from about 2 to about 50, from about 5 to about 45 moles, from about 10 to about 40 moles, or from 15 to about approximately 35 moles, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, of an alkylene oxide per mole of alkoxylated fatty alcohol.

As examples of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, a steareth (for example, steareth-2, steareth-20 and steareth-21), a laureth (for example, laureth-4 and laureth-12), a ceteth (for example , ceteareth-10 and ceteareth-20) and a ceteareth (for example, ceteareth-2, ceteareth-10 and ceteareth-20) are mentioned. In at least one case, the one or more alkoxylated fatty alcohols include steareth-20. In some cases, the one or more alkoxylated fatty alcohols may be exclusively steareth-20.

Additional fatty alcohol derivatives which may optionally be suitable include methyl stearyl ether; 2-ethylhexyl dodecyl ether; stearyl acetate; cetyl propionate; the ceteth series of compounds, such as ceteth-1 to ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, in which the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol groups present; the series of steareth compounds such as steareth-1 to 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol, in which the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol groups present; from ceteareth 1 to ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, namely a mixture of fatty alcohols containing mainly cetyl and stearyl alcohol, in which the numerical designation indicates the number of groups ethylene glycol present; the C1-C30 alkyl ethers of the ceteth, steareth and ceteareth compounds just described; polyoxyethylene ethers of branched alcohols such as octyldodecyl alcohol, dodecylpentadecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol; polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol; PPG ethers such as PPG-9-steareth-3, PPG-11 stearyl ether, PPG8-ceteth-1 and PPG-10 cetyl ether; and a mixture of these.

Fatty acids

In certain cases, the fatty compounds may be chosen from fatty acids, fatty acid derivatives, fatty acid esters, hydroxyl-substituted fatty acids and alkoxylated fatty acids. The fatty acids may be straight or branched chain acids and/or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include diacids, triacids and other multiple acids as well as salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include or be chosen from lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the fatty acids are selected from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid, and a mixture thereof.

Non-limiting examples of polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include those of the following formula:

wherein the average value of n is approximately 3 and R ¹ , R ² and R ³ may each independently be a fatty acid group or hydrogen, provided that at least one of R ¹ , R ² and R ³ is a fatty acid group. For example, R ¹ , R ² and R ³ can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have a length of C ₁ -C ₄₀ , C ₁ -C ₃₀ , C ₁ -C ₂₅ , or C ₁ -C ₂₀ , C ₁ -C ₁₆ or C ₁ -C ₁₀ .

Fatty acid derivatives are defined here as including fatty acid esters of fatty alcohols as defined above, fatty acid esters of fatty alcohol derivatives as defined above when such derivatives of Fatty alcohols have an esterifiable hydroxyl group, fatty acid esters of alcohols other than the fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol derivatives described above, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty acid derivatives include ricinoleic acid, glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxy stearic acid, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, ether stearate polyoxyethylene cetyl, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, glyceryl polystearate, dimethyl sebacate, PEG-15 cocoate, PPG-15 stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl Trèsstearate, PEG-8 laurate , PPG-2 isostearate, PPG-9 laurate, and a mixture thereof. Preferred for use herein are glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxy stearic acid, and a mixture thereof.

Raincoats

The fatty compounds may, in certain cases, include or be chosen from one or more waxes. Non-limiting examples of waxes in this category include, for example, synthetic wax, ceresin, paraffin, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, illipe butter, beeswax, carnauba, microcrystalline, lanolin , lanolin derivatives, candelilla, cocoa butter, shellac wax, spermaceti, furfural, capok wax, sugar cane wax, lignite wax, whale wax, Pennsylvania wax tree wax, Acacia decurrens flower wax, vegetable waxes (such as sunflower (helianthus annuus), carnauba, candelilla, ouricury or Japanese seed wax or fiber waxes from cork or sugar cane), or a mixture of these.

Oils

In some cases, the fatty compounds may include or be selected from one or more oils. Suitable oils include, but are not limited to, natural oils, such as coconut oil; hydrocarbons, such as mineral oil and hydrogenated polyisobutene; fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol; esters, such as C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate; diesters, such as propylene dipelarganate; and triesters, such as glyceryl trioctanoate. Non-limiting examples of oils that may optionally be included in cosmetic compositions include isotridecyl isononanoate, PEG-4 diheptanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate, cetyl stearate, cetyl myristate, coco-dicaprylate/caprate, decyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, isodecyl neopentanoate, cetyl neopentanoate isohexyl, octyl palmitate, dioctyl malate, tridecyl octanoate, myristyl myristate, octododecanol, or combinations of octyldodecanol, acetylated lanolin alcohol, cetyl acetate, isododecanol, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, castor oil, lanolin and lanolin derivatives, triisocetyl citrate, sorbitan sesquioleate, C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ triglycerides, caprylic/capric triglycerides, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, glyceryl triacetyl hydroxystearate, glyceryl triacetyl ricinoleate, glyceryl trioctanoate, hydrogenated castor oil, flaxseed oil, l mink oil, olive oil, palm oil, illipé butter, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, tallow, tricaprine, trihydroxystearin, triisostearin, trilaurin, trilinolein, trimyristin, triolein, tripalmitin, tristearin, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, cholesterol, or combinations thereof.

In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include one or more fatty compounds chosen from fatty esters (such as isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (such as petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, plant and/or vegetable oil, hydrocarbon-based oils (such as isohexadecane), or a mixture thereof.

The amount of the one or more fatty compounds in the cosmetic compositions will vary but in various embodiments is from about 2% by weight to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the amount of the one or more fatty compounds is about 2 to about 20 weight percent, about 2 to about 15 weight percent, about 2 to about 12 weight percent, about 3 to about 20% by weight, about 3 to about 15% by weight, about 3 to about 12% by weight, about 5 to about 20% by weight, about 5 to about 15% by weight, from about 5 to about 12% by weight, from about 6 to about 15% by weight, or from about 6 to about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(f) Non-ionic emulsifiers

The cosmetic composition of the present disclosure comprises one or more nonionic emulsifiers. Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers include ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters (such as polysorbate 80), polyol esters, glyceryl esters, alkyl polyglucosides (such as cetearyl glucoside), glycerol ethers, oxyethylene, oxypropylenated ethers and ethylene glycol polymers. In addition, the nonionic emulsifiers can be chosen from alkyl polyglucosides; alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated (polyglyceryl-2 isostearate); ethoxylated fatty esters; glyceryl esters of fatty acids; fatty alcohol ethoxylates; alkyl phenol ethoxylates; fatty acid alkoxylates; and mixtures thereof.

The nonionic emulsifiers can be chosen from alcohols and alpha-diols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly being in a range of 2 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

We can also mention polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol ethylene oxide, such as oxyethylenated oils of vegetable origin.

Useful nonionic surfactants include those of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, in particular represented by the following general formula: R ₁ O-(R ₂ O) _t -(G) _v in which: R ₁ represents an alkyl or alkenyl substituent linear or branched comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl substituent whose linear or branched alkyl substituent comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; R ₂ represents an alkylene substituent comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms; G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; t designates a value lying in a range of 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4; and v denotes a value lying in a range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4. Preferably, the alkyl (poly) glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which: R ₁ denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl substituent, comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms; R ₂ represents an alkylene substituent comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms; t designates a value lying in a range of 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0; and G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; the degree of polymerization, namely the value of v, possibly lying in a range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2. The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of the 1-4 type. In particular, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant may be a C ₈ /C ₁₆ alkyl(poly)glucoside 1,4 alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant, and in particular decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides.

The useful nonionic surfactants may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters of sorbitan, polyethoxylated C8-C30 (preferably C12-18) fatty alcohols, esters of C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) polyglycerolated fatty acids, the polyoxyethylenated compounds preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, the polyglycerolated compounds preferably having from 2 to 16 moles of glycerol; and mixtures thereof.

The C8-C30 polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols can be chosen from C12-C18 fatty alcohols, in particular lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol having from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, such as: polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 6 EO (Ceteth-6) (HLB 11.1), polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 10 EO (Ceteth-10) (HLB 12.9), polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 20 EO (Ceteth-20) (HLB 15.7), polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 24 EO (Ceteth-24) (HLB 16.3), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 4 EO (Laureth-4 ) (HLB 9.4), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 7 EO (Laureth-7) (HLB 12.3), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 9 EO (Laureth-9) (HLB 13.6), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 10 EO (Laureth-10) (HLB 13.9), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 12 EO (Laureth-12) (HLB 14.6), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 21 EO (Laureth-21) ) (HLB 15.5), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 23 EO (Laureth-23) (HLB 16.3), polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 2 EO (Steareth-2) (HLB 4.9), polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 10 EO (Steareth-10) (HLB 12.4), polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 20 EO (Steareth-20) (HLB 15.2), polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 21 EO (Steareth-21 ) (HLB 15.5)

The polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters of sorbitan can be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl or stearic acids, of sorbitan containing in particular from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, such as: polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (Polysorbate-21) (HLB 13.3), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-20) (HLB 16.7), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-40) (HLB 15.6), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-60) (HLB 14 .9), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (Polysorbate-61) (HLB 9.6), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-80) (HLB 15).

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters in C12-C18.

The C8-C30 polyglycerolated fatty acid esters, which are particularly preferred, can be chosen from polyglycerolated esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular of lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic or isostearic acid, having 2 to 16 moles of glycerol, such as: polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-laurate 10; polyglyceryl-2 myristate, polyglyceryl-3 myristate, polyglyceryl-4 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-6 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate; polyglyceryl-2 palmitate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-6 palmitate, polyglyceryl-10 palmitate; polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-5 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate; polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 stearate, polyglyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-8 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, and mixtures of these.

In certain embodiments, the nonionic surfactant can be selected from esters of polyols with fatty acids having a saturated or unsaturated chain containing for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably having an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of a fatty acid or acids in C ₈ -C ₂₄ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably having a number of alkylene oxides from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of a C ₈ -C ₂₄ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , fatty acid or acids, and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably having a number of alkylene oxides from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; sorbitol esters of a C ₈ -C ₂₄ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , fatty acid or acids, and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably having a number of alkylene oxides of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; sugar esters (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) of a C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acid or acids, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably having a number alkylene oxides from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; fatty alcohol ethers; ethers of sugar and of an alcohol or fatty alcohols of C ₈ -C ₂₄ , preferably of C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ; and mixtures thereof.

Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters which may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof , in particular those containing 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (according to the CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (according to the CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (according to the CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); palmitostearate from PEG-9 to PEG-50; behenate from PEG-9 to PEG-50 (according to the CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.

As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, mention may be made of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or Trèsstearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof. .

As glyceryl esters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ alkoxylated fatty acids, polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or Trèsstearate) such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate can for example be quoted.

Mixtures of these surfactants, such as for example the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEG1N by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE), can also be used.

Alkyl polyglucosides are a class of useful nonionic surfactants. Non-limiting examples of alkyl polyglucosides include alkyl polyglucosides having the following formula:

R1-O-(R2O)n-Z(x)

in which R ¹ is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

R ² is an ethylene or propylene group;

Z is a saccharide group having 5 to 6 carbon atoms;

n is an integer from 0 to 10; And

x is an integer from 1 to 5.

Useful alkyl poly glucosides include lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coca glucoside, sucrose laurate, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, and mixtures thereof . Typically, the at least one alkyl poly glucoside compound is selected from the group consisting of lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside and coca glucoside, and more typically lauryl glucoside. In certain cases, decyl glucoside is particularly preferred.

Polyglycerol-based emulsifiers

Polyglycerol-based emulsifiers are a useful type of nonionic emulsifiers. Non-limiting examples include polyglyceryl 10-stearate, polyglyceryl-3-caprate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, or a mixture thereof. More generally, polyglycerol-based emulsifiers may be polyglycerol esters of fatty acids having a structure conforming to the following formula:

in which n is from 2 to 20 or from 2 to 10 or from 2 to 5, or is 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, and R ¹ , R ² and R ³ can each independently be a fatty acid group or a hydrogen, provided that at least one of R ¹ , R ² and R ³ is a fatty acid group. For example, R ¹ , R ² and R ³ can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have a length of C ₁ -C ₄₀ , C ₁ -C ₃₀ , C ₁ -C ₂₅ , or C ₁ -C ₂₀ , C ₁ -C ₁₆ or C ₁ -C ₁₀ . Additionally, non-limiting examples of nonionic polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include polyglyceryl-4 caprylate/caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate/caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate , polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 cocoate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate , polyglyceryl-10 stearate, and mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the polyglycerol-based emulsifier may be chosen from polyglyceryl esters of saturated, unsaturated and branched chain C12-22 fatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, oleate polyglyceryl-3, polyglyceryl-2-sesquioleate, triglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of glyceryl esters may include glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl laurate, and combinations thereof.

Non-limiting examples of polyglycero fatty acid esters include polyglyceryl-10 laurate; polyglyceryl-10 myristate; polyglyceryl-2 palmitate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-6 palmitate, polyglyceryl-10 palmitate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-isostearate 4, polyglyceryl-5 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate; polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 stearate, polyglyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-8 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, and mixtures of these. In some cases, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate is particularly useful.

In a preferred embodiment, the one or more nonionic emulsifiers are chosen from sorbitan fatty esters (for example, sorbitan isostearate and sorbitan oleate), ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters (for example, polysorbate-80), polyol esters, glyceryl esters, polyglucosides (e.g. cetearyl glucoside), and mixtures thereof

The total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers in the cosmetic compositions will vary but in various embodiments is from about 0.1% by weight to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In additional embodiments, the total amount of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers in the cosmetic composition is about 0.1 to about 8 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.2 to about 10% by weight, about 0.2 to about 8% by weight, about 0.2 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.2 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.3 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.3 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.3 to about 5% by weight weight, or from about 0.3 to about 3% by weight, from 0.5 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, from 1.0 to about 10% by weight, from about 1.0 to about 8% by weight, from about 1.0 to about 5 % by weight, or from about 1.0 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(g) Water

The quantity of water in cosmetic compositions can and will vary depending on the quantity of other components in the cosmetic compositions. However, in various embodiments, the amount of water is from about 35% by weight to about 85% by weight. In additional embodiments, the amount of the water is about 35 to about 80 weight percent, about 35 to about 75 weight percent, about 35 to about 70 weight percent, about 40 to about 85% by weight, about 40 to about 80% by weight, about 40 to about 75% by weight, about 40 to about 70% by weight, about 50 to about 85% by weight weight, from about 50 to about 80% by weight, from about 50 to about 75% by weight, from about 50 to about 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(h) Water-soluble solvents

The cosmetic composition of the present disclosure may include one or more water-soluble solvents. The term "water-soluble solvent" is interchangeable with the term "water-miscible solvent" and refers to a compound that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and it has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, water-soluble solvents have a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90%. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerin, alcohols (e.g. C _1-10 or C _1-4 alcohols), organic solvents, polyols, glycols, and a mixture of these.

Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, ether monomethyl propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol. Other suitable examples are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol and glycerin. Organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.

Additional non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (the caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene monomethyl ether glycol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ether ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene monomethyl ether glycol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-ethyl ether, monomethyl ether of dipropylene glycol, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane, and a mixture thereof.

Polyhydric alcohols are also useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and a mixture thereof. Polyol compounds can also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3- propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1, 2-diol and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, and a mixture thereof.

In some cases, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure include one or more glycols and/or one or more alcohols, for example, one or more water-soluble solvents selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, capryloyl glycol, propanediol, glycerin, and a mixture thereof.

The total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents will vary but in various embodiments is from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In additional embodiments, the total amount of the one or more water-soluble solvents is about 0.1 to about 15 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent, about 0.5 to about 20% by weight, about 0.5 to about 15% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 20% by weight, about 1 to about 15% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(i) Thickening polymers

In some embodiments, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may optionally include one or more thickening polymers, which are different from the two or more taurate copolymers (c). Non-limiting examples of various types of thickening polymers include polyacrylate, polymethacrylate, polyethylacrylate, polyacrylamide, C10-30 alkyl poly acrylate, acrylic acid/acrylonitrogens copolymer, acrylates/itaconate copolymer of steareth-20, an acrylates/ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, an acrylates/aminoacrylates/C10-30 alkyl itaconate copolymer PEG-20, an acrylates/aminoacrylates copolymer, an acrylates copolymer /steareth-20 methacrylate, a copolymer of acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate, a cross-linked copolymer of acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate, a cross-linked copolymer of acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate/HEMA, a cross-linked copolymer acrylates/vinyl neodecanoate, a cross-linked acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate copolymer, an acrylates/palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer, an acrylic acid/acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid copolymer, and a cross-linked acrylates copolymer /C10-C30 alkyl acrylate, carbomers, hydrophobically modified polypolyacrylates; hydrophobically modified polyacrylic acids, hydrophobically modified polyacrylamides; hydrophobically modified polyethers in which these materials may have a hydrophobic group which may be selected from cetyl, stearyl, oleayl, and combinations thereof, an acrylamide/ammonium acrylate copolymer, a copolymer of acrylates, a 4-crosslinked copolymer of acrylates, a 3-crosslinked copolymer of acrylates, a copolymer of acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate, a crosslinked copolymer of acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate, a steareth-20 acrylates/itaconate copolymer, ammonium polyacrylate/isohexadecane/PEG-40 castor oil; a sodium carbomer, a cross-linked polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), a polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7, a polyacrylate 13/polyisobutene/polysorbate 20, a cross-linked polyacrylate copolymer-6, a polyamide-3, a polyquaternium- 37, a sodium polyacrylate, and a mixture thereof.

Among the nonionic thickening polymers that can be mentioned are:

(1) Celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain; examples which may be mentioned include: hydroxyethyl celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably in C8-C22, for example the product NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (C ₁₆ alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon, or the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company Berol Nobel; and hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol nonylphenyl ether (15)) sold by the company Amerchol,

(2) Hydroxypropyl guars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (C ₂₂ alkyl chain) sold by the Lamberti company, and the RE210-18 products (C ₁₄ alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C ₂₀ alkyl chain) sold by the Rhone-Poulenc company,

(3) Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic fatty chain monomers; examples that may be mentioned include: ANTARON V216 or GANEX V216 products (vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.P., products ANTARON V220 or GANEX V220 (vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.P.,

(4) Copolymers of C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for example the methyl acrylate/oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the Goldschmidt company under the name ANTIL 208,

(5) Copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for example the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer,

(6) Polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of a polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which can be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the one or more thickening polymers include a polymer of the acrylic acid ester of a C10-30 alcohol, for example, a C10-30 alkyl poly acrylate.

The amount of the one or more thickening polymers, if any, will vary but in various embodiments is from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In additional embodiments, the total amount of the one or more thickening polymers is about 0.01 to about 4 weight percent, about 0.01 to about 3 weight percent, about 0.1 to about 3 weight percent, about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0, 5 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(j) Miscellaneous ingredients

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may optionally include one or more various ingredients. Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with the cosmetic compositions and do not disrupt or materially affect the basic and novel properties of the cosmetic compositions. The various ingredients commonly used in cosmetic products are known in the art. Non-limiting examples include various emulsifiers/surfactants other than nonionic emulsifiers of (f), preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusting agents, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescent agents, fillers, dyes, mattifying agents, additional skin active agents, depigmentation agents, anti-wrinkle agents, etc. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure include one or more active agents for the skin, in particular, a madecassoside. Non-limiting examples of various miscellaneous ingredients that may optionally be included in (or excluded from) cosmetic compositions are provided below.

Various emulsifiers/surfactants

Various emulsifiers/surfactants can optionally be included in the cosmetic compositions. Miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants are those that are not the nonionic emulsifiers of (f). Various emulsifiers/surfactants may be nonionic, anionic, cationic and/or amphoteric/zwitterionic.

Antioxidants

Examples of antioxidants include tocopherols (e.g. d-α-tocopherol, d-β-tocopherol, d-γ-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol), tocotrienols (e.g. d-α-tocotrienol, d-β -tocotrienol, d-γ-tocotrienol, d-delta-tocotrienol) and vitamin E (α-tocopherol acetate). These compounds can be isolated from natural sources, prepared by synthetic means, or mixtures thereof. Vitamin E preparations enriched with tocotrienol can be obtained by fractionating vitamin E preparations to remove a portion of tocopherols and recover a preparation more highly concentrated in tocotrienol. Useful tocotrienols are natural products isolated, for example, from wheat germ oil, seed, or palm oil using high performance liquid chromatography, or isolated by alcohol extraction and/or molecular distillation from barley, spent grain or oats. As used herein, the term “tocotrienols” includes the tocotrienol-rich fractions obtained from these natural products as well as the pure compounds. Increased glutathione peroxidase activity protects the skin from oxidative stress.

Vitamin C and its derivatives may be used, including ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, and the fat-soluble esters tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and ascorbyl palmitate, phosphated magnesium ascorbyl, ascorbyl-glucoside, glucosamine ascorbate, ascorbyl acetate, etc. In addition, plant extracts containing a high amount of vitamin C such as camu berry (Myrciaria dubia), acerola, emblica officinalis, and rosehip and citrus bioflavonoids can be used including water-soluble bioflavonoids. Water such as hesperidin methyl chalcone can also be used.

Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesame lignan can also be added. Sesame and its lignans (the fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans significantly increase the activity of vitamin E.

Additionally, carotenoids, particularly of the xanthophyll type, are also useful antioxidants that can be used. Xanthophyll-type carotenoids include molecules such as lutein, canthaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, and astaxanthin. Xanthophylls protect compounds such as vitamin A, vitamin E and other carotenoids.

Flavonoids can also function as antioxidants. In some cases, the flavonoid is a flavanone (derived from 2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavones include: butin, eriodictyol, hesperetin, hesperidin, homoeriodictyol, isosakuranetin, naringenin, naringin, pinocembrin, poncirin, sakuranetin, sakuranin, and sterubin. The flavonoid may be a flavanonol (3-hydroxy-2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one derivative). Flavanols include: taxifolin, aromadedrine, chrysandroside A, chrysandroside B, xeractinol, astilbin and fustin. The flavonoid may be a flavone (2-phenylchromen-4-one derivative). Flavones include: apigenin, luteolin, tangeritin, chrysin, baicalein, scutellarein, wogonin, synthetic flavones: diosmin and flavoxate. The flavonoid may be a flavonol (3-hydroxy-2-phenylchromen-4-one derivative). Flavonols include: 3-hydroxyflavone, azaleatin, fisetin, galangin, gossypetin, kaempferide, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, morin, myricetin, natsudaidain, pachypodol, quercetin, rhamnazine, rhamnetin, azalein, hyperoside, isoquercitin, kaempferitrin, myricitrin, quercitrin, robinin, rutin, spiraeoside, xanthorhamnine, amurensin, icariin and troxerutin. The flavonoid may be a flavan-3-ol (2-phenyl-3,4-dihydro-2H-chromen-3-ol derivatives). Flavan-3-ols include: catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, epiafzelechin, fisetinidol, guibourtinidol, mesquitol and robinetinidol. The flavonoid may be a flavan-4-ol (derived from 2-phenylchroman-4-ol). Flavan-4-ols include: apiforol and luteoforol. The flavonoid may be an isoflavone (3-phenylchromen-4-one derivative). Isoflavones include: genistein, daidzein, biochanin A, formononetin, and the daidzein metabolite equol.

The antioxidant may be an anthocyanidin (derived from the 2-phenylchromenylium cation). Anthocyanidins include: aurantinidin, cyanidin, delphinidin, europinidin, luteolinidin, pelargonidin, malvidin, peonidin, petunidin, rosinidin and xanthone.

The antioxidant may be a dihydrochalcone (derived from 1,3-diphenyl-1-propanone). Dihydrochalcones include: phloretin, phloretin phloridzin dihydrochalcone, aspalathin, naringin dihydrochalcone, neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, and nothofagin. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, dihydrochalcones can exert an antioxidant effect by reducing reactive free radicals, such as reactive oxygen and reactive nitrogen species.

The antioxidant may be an anthocyanin. Anthocyanins and their derivatives are antioxidants. Anthocyanins encompass a class of flavonoid compounds that are natural, water-soluble compounds responsible for the red, purple, and blue colors of many fruits, vegetables, grains, and flowers. Additionally, anthocyanins are collagenase inhibitors. Collagenase inhibition facilitates the prevention and reduction of wrinkles, increased skin elasticity, etc., which are caused by a reduction in skin collagen. Anthocyanins can be obtained from any part of various plant sources, such as the fruit, flower, stem, flowers, root, bark or seeds. Those skilled in the art will understand that certain parts of the plant may contain higher natural levels of anthocyanins, and, therefore, these parts are used to obtain the desired anthocyanins. In some cases, antioxidants may include one or more betacyanins. Betacyanins, like anthocyanins, can be obtained from natural sources and are antioxidants.

The antioxidant may be a phenylpropanoid (cinnamic acid derivatives). Phenylpropanoids include: cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, trans-ferulic acid (including its pharmacore antioxidant 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenome), 5-hydroxyferulic acid, sinapic acid, coumaryl alcohol, coniferyl alcohol, sinapyl alcohol, eugenol, chavicol, safrole, P-coumaric acid and sinapinic acid. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, phenylpropanoids can neutralize free radicals.

The antioxidant may be a chalcone (1,3-diphenyl-2-propen-1-one derivative). Chalcones include: butein, okanin, carthamine, marein, sophoradine, xanthohumol, flavokavain A, flavokavain B, flavokavain C and synthetic safalcone.

The antioxidant may be a curcuminoid. Curcuminoids include: curcumin, desmethoxycurcumin, bis-desmethoxycurcumin, tetrahydrocurcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids. Curcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids can be derived from rhizomes of Curcuma longa. Tetrahydrocurcumin, a metabolite of curcumin, has been shown to be a more powerful and stable antioxidant compared to curcumin.

The antioxidant may be a tannin. Tannins include: tannin, terflavin B, glucogallin, D-gallic acid and quercitannic acid.

The antioxidant may be a stilbenoid. Stilbenoids include: Resveratrol, pterostilbene and piceatannol. Resveratrol may include, but is not limited to, 3,5,4'-trihydroxystilbene, 3,4,3',5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (piceatannol), 2,3',4,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (oxyresveratrol), 4,4'-dihydroxystilbene, and the alpha and beta glucoside, galactoside and mannoside derivatives thereof.

The antioxidant may be a coumarin (2H-chromen-2-one derivatives). Coumarins include: 4-hydroxycoumarin, umbelliferone, esculetin, herniarin, auraptene and dicoumarol.

The antioxidant may be a carotenoid. Carotenoids include: beta-carotene, alpha-carotene, gamma-carotene, beta-cryptoxanthin, lycopene, lutein and idebenone. Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesame lignan can also be added. Sesame and its lignans (the fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans significantly increase the activity of vitamin E.

The antioxidant can be: xanthone, butylated hydroxytoluene, 2,6-di-tert-butylphenol, 2,4-dimethyl-6-tert-butylphenol, gallic acid, eugenol, uric acid, alpha-lipoic acid, ellagic acid, chicoric acid, chlorogenic acid, rosmarinic acid, salicylic acid, acetylcysteine, S-allyl cysteine, barbigerone, chebulagic acid, edaravone, ethoxyquin, glutathione, hydroxytyrosol, idebenone, melatonin, N-acetylserotonin, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, oleocanthal, oleuropein, paradol, piceatannol, probucol, propyl gallate, protocatechuic acid, pyritinol, rutin, secoisolariciresinol diglucoside, sesamin , sesamol, silibinin, silymarin, theaflavin, theaflavin digallate, thymoquinone, trolox, tyrosol, polyunsaturated fatty acids and sulfur-based antioxidants such as methionine or lipoic acid .

Active agents for the skin

Non-limiting examples of skin active agents include madecassoside, retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 chloride (or pyridoxine), selenium, samphire--extract mixtures cinnamon, tea and octanoylglycine such as--Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic--the mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine marketed in particular by Seppic under the brand name Sepicontrol A5--zinc salts such as gluconate zinc, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate;--derivatives in particular of copper and copper pidolate such as Cuivridone Solabia--plant extracts of Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha pipenta Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia officinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all marketed for example by Maruzen--the extracts of meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria), such as that sold under the name Sebonormine by Silab--extracts of the algae Laminaria saccharina, such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by Biotechmarine--extracts of root of blends of Burnet (Sanguisorba officinalis/Poterium officinale), ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as that sold under the name Sebustop by Solabia--flaxseed extracts such as that sold under the name Linumine by Lucas Meyer--phellodendron extracts such as those sold under the name Phellodendron extract BG by Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by Ichimaru Pharcos--mixtures of argan oil extract, from Serenoa serrulata (cabbage) and sesame seeds such as that sold under the name Regu SEB by Pentapharm--blends of extracts of willowherb, Terminalia chebula, nasturtium and bioavailable zinc (microalgae), such as that sold under the name Seborilys Green Tech;--extracts of Pygeum afrianum such as that sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by Euromed--extracts of Serenoa serrulata such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by Actives International, and those sold by the company Euromed--mixtures of plantain extracts, Berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate such as that sold under the name Seboclear Rahn--clove extract such as that sold under the name Clove extract powder by Maruzen--argan oil such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl Laboratories Serobiologique; --lactic protein filtrates, such as that sold under the name Normaseb by Sederma--extracts of kelp algae, such as that sold under the name Laminarghane by Biotechmarine--oligosaccharides from Laminaria digitata algae, such as that sold under the name Phycosaccharide AC by the Codif company--sugar cane extracts such as that sold under the name Policosanol by the Sabinsa company, sulfonated shale oil, such as that sold under the name Ichtyol Pale by Ichthyol- - extracts of meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria) such as that sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by the company Libiol - sebacic acid, in particular sold in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Sederma--glucomannans extracted from konjac tuber and modified with alkylsulfonate chains such as that sold under the name Biopol Beta by Arch Chemical--extracts of Sophora angustifolia, such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by Bioland--extracts of cinchona succirubra bark such as that sold under the name Red Bark HS by Alban Muller--extracts of Quillaja saponaria such as that sold under the name Panama wood HS by Alban Muller--glycine grafted onto an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by SEPPIC--the mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold in the form of a gel under the name AC.Net by Sederma; --phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid--tri citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL.RTM ECI by Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL.RTM. ECL by Sasol--10-hydroxydecanoic acid, including mixtures of hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid and 1,10-decandiol such as that sold as Acnacidol BG by Vincience and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure include one or more skin active agents, for example madecassoside. Likewise, in some embodiments, the cosmetic compositions include madecassoside and optionally one or more additional skin active agents.

Depigmentation agents

Non-limiting examples of depigmentation agents include alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and derivatives thereof, tranexamic acid and derivatives thereof, gentisic acid, homogentisic acid, gentisate or methyl homogentisate, dioic acid, D panthetein calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, certain compounds derived from plants such as chamomile, bearberry, asphodelaceae (vera, ferox, bardensis), blackberry, skullcap, kiwi (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, a root extract of Paeonia suffruticosa, such as that sold by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Liquid Botanpi Be, an extract of brown sugar (Saccharum officinarum) such as an extract of molasses marketed by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Liquid Molasses, without this list is exhaustive. Specific depigmentation agents include alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, D panthetein calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, a kiwi (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, a root extract of Paeonia suffruticosa, such as that sold by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B.

Anti-wrinkle agent

The term "anti-wrinkle agent" refers to a natural or synthetic compound that produces a biological effect, such as the synthesis and/or increased activity of certain enzymes, when brought into contact with an area of wrinkled skin, this has for the effect of reducing the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines. Non-limiting examples of anti-wrinkle agents include: desquamation agents, anti-glycation agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or preventing their degradation, agents for stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts and/or keratinocytes, or to stimulate agents reducing the differentiation of keratinocytes; muscle relaxants and/or dermo-relaxants, anti-free radical agents and mixtures thereof. Examples of such compounds are: adenosine and its derivatives and retinoids other than retinol (as noted above, such as retinol palmitate), ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as ascorbyl phosphated magnesium and ascorbyl glucoside; nicotinic acid and its precursors such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and precursors thereof such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid, C-glycoside compounds and their derivatives as described in particular in EP-1345919, in particular C-beta -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane as described in particular in EP-1345919, plant extracts including marine fennel and olive leaf extracts, as well as a plant and hydrolysates thereof these such as rice protein hydrolysates or soy proteins; algal extracts and in particular of kelp, bacterial extracts, sapogenins such as diosgenin and extracts of Dioscorea plants, in particular of hairy yam, comprising: α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and acyl derivatives thereof, in particular {2-[acetyl-(3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl)-amino]-3-methyl} acid -acetic and lipopeptides marketed by the company under the brand names SEDERMA Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000; lycopene, manganese salts and magnesium salts, in particular gluconates, and mixtures thereof. In at least one case, the skin tightening composition includes adenosine derivatives, such as non-phosphated adenosine derivatives, particularly such as 2'-deoxyadenosine, 2',3'-adenosine isopropylidene; toyocamycin, 1-methyladenosine, N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside and 6-chloropurine riboside. Other derivatives include adenosine receptor agonists such as phenylisopropyl adenosine (“PIA”), 1-methylisoguanosine, N6-cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro- N6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxy-ethyl)phenethyl-amino-5'-N-ethylcarboxamido adenosine (CGS-21680), N-ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (NECA), 5'(N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, DPMA (PD 129.944) and metrifudil.

The miscellaneous ingredients may be included in the cosmetic composition, for example, in an amount of about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The total amount of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients may be from about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight, or from about 1 to about 3% by weight, based of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

As already noted, skin active agents may be included as one or more of the miscellaneous ingredients. With respect to the total amount of skin active agents in the cosmetic compositions, if applicable, the total amount of skin active agents may be from more than zero to about 9% by weight, more than zero to about 8% by weight, from more than zero to about 7% by weight, from more than zero to about 6% by weight, from more than zero to about 5% by weight, from more than zero to about 4% by weight , from more than zero to about 3% by weight, from more than zero to about 2% by weight; from about 10 ppm to about 10 wt% (100,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 5 wt% (50,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 2.5 wt% (25,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 1 wt% (10,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.5 wt% (5000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.3% by weight (3000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.2 wt% (2000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.1 wt% (1000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to 500 ppm; from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 2.5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 1 % by weight, from about 0.1 to about 0.5% by weight; from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 6% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight, from about 1 to about 4% by weight, from about 1 to about 3% by weight; from about 2 to about 10% by weight, from about 2 to about 8% by weight, from about 2 to about 6% by weight, from about 2 to about 5% by weight, from about 2 to about 4% by weight; from about 3 to about 10% by weight, from about 3 to about 8% by weight, from about 3 to about 6% by weight, from about 3 to about 5% by weight; from about 4 to about 10% by weight, from about 4 to about 8% by weight, or from about 4 to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

pH

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure typically have a pH of about 5.5 to about 8. In various embodiments, the pH of the cosmetic compositions is from about 5.5 to about 7, from about 5.5 to about 6 .5, from about 5.5 to about 6 to about 8, or from about 6 to about 7. In various embodiments, the pH of the cosmetic compositions does not change by more than ±1 pH unit, ±0 .5 pH unit, ±0.3 pH unit or ±0.2 pH unit, for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks in storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

Stability

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are stable. For example, the cosmetic compositions do not visually phase separate or form visible particles for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks in storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

In various embodiments, the cosmetic compositions do not visually phase separate or form visible particles during at least 10 freeze-thaw test cycles, wherein the freeze-thaw tests include placing the cosmetic composition in a stability chamber and subjecting it to a temperature fluctuation at 12 hour intervals, for a first interval of 12 hours at -20°C followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25°C.

In various embodiments, the viscosity of the cosmetic compositions does not change by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5%, for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks in storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

Viscosity

In general, the cosmetic compositions herein have a viscosity of about 5,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25°C. However, the cosmetic compositions may have a viscosity of approximately 10,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, of approximately 10,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, of approximately 10,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, of approximately 10,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 10,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, from approximately 10,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s. s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, from approximately 30,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 30,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 30,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, from approximately 30,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 30,000 at approximately 100,000 Pa.s, from approximately 30,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, d 'approximately 40,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 40,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 40,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, from approximately 40,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s , from about 40,000 to about 100,000 Pa.s, from about 40,000 to about 80,000 Pa.s at 25 °C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25 °C.

Viscosity measurements can be made, for example, using a Brookfield viscometer/rheometer using a T-bar spindle at a speed of 5, 10, 15 and/or 20 rpm. An RVDV-II+Pro viscometer with RheocalcT software can be used for automatic instrument control and data acquisition. The test temperature was maintained at 25°C using a Brookfield TC-502P programmable refrigerated bath. From its original container, a sample is transferred to a 120 ml glass carboy and then tested.

Processes

The present disclosure also relates to methods of treating skin. The methods include applying the cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure. Cosmetic compositions are typically applied directly to the skin by hand or using a wipe. The skin can optionally be washed or rinsed before application. The skin treatment process can be carried out once a day or can be carried out several times. For example, the skin treatment method can be carried out once a day, twice a day, once a week, twice a week for an extended period of time for 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 month. The methods may be methods for strengthening or improving the natural lipid barrier of the skin; methods for treating dry and/or aging skin; processes for maintaining and/or improving the water balance of the skin; and/or processes to improve the appearance of the skin.

In some embodiments, the method further comprises mixing a cosmetic composition of the present disclosure with one or more additional cosmetic compositions before application to the skin. For example, the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure may be mixed with one or more additional cosmetic compositions immediately prior to application to the skin, e.g., mixing may occur within 1 minute, 2 minutes, 5 minutes, 10 minutes, 15 minutes or 30 minutes before application to the skin. In some embodiments, the cosmetic compositions may be mixed in the hands of an individual before applying the mixture to the skin, for example, facial skin.

The present disclosure also relates to methods of stabilizing a cosmetic composition containing high amounts of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine. This process includes incorporating acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine into the compositions of the present disclosure. The quantities of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine which may be incorporated are the quantities indicated throughout this disclosure.

Kits

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may be provided in a kit, for example, a kit comprising an individually contained cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure and one or more additional separately contained cosmetic compositions. In one embodiment, the one or more separately contained compositions may be an additional composition according to the present disclosure or may be a different composition. The cosmetic compositions may be contained separately in different cartridges, which are included in a dispensing apparatus/device. In other words, the kit may be a dispensing apparatus/device comprising a plurality of cartridges in which the compositions are contained. The kit (or apparatus/device) may optionally dispense the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure and separately dispense the one or more separately contained compositions. In various embodiments, the compositions may be dispensed individually or simultaneously, and may optionally be mixed (or unmixed) with each other before being dispensed. In one embodiment, the various compositions are not mixed with each other before being distributed. Useful delivery systems, cartridges and apparatus/devices are disclosed in U.S. Patent Nos. 9,968,177 and 9,808,071; U.S. Patent Application Publication Nos. 2021/0236390, 2021/0235849 and 2021/0236863; and in U.S. Series No. 17/162,555, all of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Embodiments

In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises or consists of:

(a) about 1 to about 5 weight percent, preferably about 2 to about 4 weight percent, more preferably about 2 to about 4 weight percent of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine;

(b) about 10 to about 40 weight percent, more preferably about 10 to about 20 weight percent, and more preferably about 12 to about 18 weight percent of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(c) about 2 to about 15 weight percent, preferably about 2 to about 8 weight percent, more preferably about 2 to about 5 weight percent of two or more, preferably three or more taurate copolymers, per example, chosen from an acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, a sodium acrylate copolymer sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and a mixture thereof, preferably all three of acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer;

(d) about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols, preferably having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl, myristyl, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof;

(e) about 5 to about 25% by weight, preferably about 5 to about 20% by weight, more preferably about 5 to about 15% by weight of one or more fatty compounds, e.g., one or more compounds fats chosen from fatty esters (such as isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (such as petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, a plant and/or vegetable oil, hydrocarbon-based oils (such as isohexadecane), and a mixture thereof, more preferably chosen from isohexadecane, isononanoate isononyl, squalene, soybean oil, and a mixture thereof;

(f) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5, even more preferably about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers, e.g. , chosen from alkanolamides, sorbitan fatty esters (for example, sorbitan isostearate and sorbitan oleate), ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters (for example, polysorbate-80), polyol esters, glyceryl esters, polyglucosides (for example, cetearyl glucoside), glycerol ethers, oxyethylenated ethers, oxypropylenated ethers and ethylene glycol polymers, preferably chosen from polysorbate 80, cetearyl glucoside, sorbitan isostearate, oleate of sorbitan, mixtures thereof;

(g) about 40 to about 80% by weight, preferably about 40 to about 70% by weight, more preferably about 45 to about 65% by weight water;

(h) optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents, for example, one or more water-soluble solvents chosen from glycerin, alcohols (for example, C1-30, C1-15, C1-10 or C1-4), organic solvents, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols (e.g., propylene glycol, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.), and a mixture thereof, preferably one or more glycols, in particular propylene glycol, wherein, where appropriate, the one or more water-soluble solvents comprise about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 15% by weight of the cosmetic composition;

(i) optionally, one or more thickening polymers which are different from one or more taurate copolymers of (c), for example, chosen from a polyacrylate, a polymethacrylate, a polyethylacrylate, a polyacrylamide, a poly C10 alkyl acrylate -30, and mixtures thereof, preferably a C10-30 alkyl poly acrylate, wherein, where appropriate, the one or more thickening polymers comprise from about 0.01 to about 5 wt. , preferably from about 0.05 to about 4% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of the cosmetic composition;

(j) optionally, one or more miscellaneous ingredients, for example, one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants other than the nonionic emulsifiers of (f), preservatives, fragrances, adjusting agents pH, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearling agents, fillers, colorants, mattifying agents, additional skin active agents, depigmentation agents, anti-wrinkle agents, preferably wherein at least one of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients is an additional skin active agent such as madecassoside, wherein, where applicable, the one or more miscellaneous ingredients comprise about 0.01 to about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to approximately 8% by weight of the cosmetic composition;

wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

As noted above, in some embodiments, it is preferable to include three or more taurate copolymers in the cosmetic composition. The three or more taurate copolymers may be ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, preferably in the following quantities, based on the total weight of the cosmetic compositions:

- 0.1 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 2% by weight of acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer,

- 0.7 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.7 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.8 to 2% by weight of acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and

- 0.1 to approximately 4% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 2% by weight of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises:

- 0.6 to 2% by weight of acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer,

- 0.8 to 2% by weight of acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and

- 0.6 to 2% by weight of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

The composition preferably has a pH of about 5.5 to about 8, preferably about 5.5 to about 7.5, more preferably about 5.5 to about 7.

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are stable. For example, the cosmetic compositions do not visually phase separate or form visible particles for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks in storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

In various embodiments, the cosmetic compositions do not visually phase separate or form visible particles during at least 10 freeze-thaw test cycles, wherein the freeze-thaw tests include placing the cosmetic composition in a stability chamber and subjecting it to a temperature fluctuation at 12 hour intervals, for a first interval of 12 hours at -20°C followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25°C.

In various embodiments, the viscosity of the cosmetic compositions does not change by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5%, for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks in storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

The cosmetic compositions preferably have a viscosity of about 5,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25°C. However, the cosmetic compositions may have a viscosity of approximately 10,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, of approximately 10,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, of approximately 10,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, of approximately 10,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 10,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, from approximately 10,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s. s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, from approximately 30,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 30,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 30,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, from approximately 30,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 30,000 at approximately 100,000 Pa.s, from approximately 30,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, d 'approximately 40,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 40,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 40,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, from approximately 40,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s , from about 40,000 to about 100,000 Pa.s, from about 40,000 to about 80,000 Pa.s at 25 °C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25 °C.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises or consists of:

(a) about 1 to about 5 weight percent, preferably about 2 to about 4 weight percent, more preferably about 2 to about 4 weight percent of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine;

(b) about 10 to about 40 weight percent, more preferably about 10 to about 20 weight percent, and more preferably about 12 to about 18 weight percent of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;

(c) about 2 to about 15 weight percent, preferably about 2 to about 8 weight percent, more preferably about 2 to about 5 weight percent of two or more, preferably three or more taurate copolymers, per example, chosen from an acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, a sodium acrylate copolymer /sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and a mixture thereof, preferably an acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, an acrylate copolymer sodium hydroxyethyl/acryloyl dimethyl taurate, and a copolymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP;

(d) about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, one or more fatty alcohols chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl, myristyl, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof, preferably comprising behenyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol;

(e) about 5 to about 25% by weight, preferably about 5 to about 20% by weight, more preferably about 5 to about 15% by weight of one or more fatty compounds, e.g., one or more compounds fats chosen from fatty esters (such as isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (such as petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, a plant and/or vegetable oil, hydrocarbon-based oils (such as isohexadecane), and a mixture thereof, more preferably chosen from isohexadecane, isononanoate isononyl, squalene, soybean oil, and a mixture thereof;

(f) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5, even more preferably about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers, e.g. , chosen from sorbitan fatty esters (for example, sorbitan isostearate and sorbitan oleate), ethoxylated sorbitan fatty esters (for example, polysorbate-80), polyol esters, glyceryl esters, polyglucosides (for example example, cetearyl glucoside), preferably chosen from polysorbate 80, cetearyl glucoside, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan oleate, mixtures thereof;

(g) about 40 to about 80% by weight, preferably about 40 to about 70% by weight, more preferably about 45 to about 65% by weight water;

(h) about 0.1 to about 20 weight percent, preferably about 0.1 to about 15 weight percent, more preferably about 1 to about 15 weight percent of one or more water-soluble solvents , for example, one or more water-soluble solvents chosen from glycerin, alcohols (for example, C1-30, C1-15, C1-10 or C1-4 alcohols), organic solvents, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols (e.g., propylene glycol, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.), and a mixture thereof, preferably one or more glycols, preferably propylene glycol;

(i) optionally, one or more thickening polymers which are different from one or more taurate copolymers of (c), for example, chosen from a polyacrylate, a polymethacrylate, a polyethylacrylate, a polyacrylamide, a poly C10 alkyl acrylate -30, and mixtures thereof, preferably a C10-30 alkyl poly acrylate, wherein, where appropriate, the one or more thickening polymers comprise from about 0.01 to about 5 wt. , preferably from about 0.05 to about 4% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of the cosmetic composition;

(j) about 0.01 to about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight of one or more ingredients miscellaneous, for example, one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from miscellaneous emulsifiers/surfactants other than the nonionic emulsifiers of (f), preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusting agents, salts, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and/or isolates, hydrotropes, pearlizing agents, fillers, dyes, mattifying agents, agents additional skin active agents, depigmentation agents, anti-wrinkle agents, preferably wherein at least one of the one or more miscellaneous ingredients is an additional skin active agent, which is preferably madecassoside;

wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

As noted above, in some cases three or more taurate copolymers may be included in the cosmetic composition. The three or more taurate copolymers may be ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, preferably in the following quantities, based on the total weight of the cosmetic compositions:

- 0.1 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 2% by weight of acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer,

- 0.7 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.7 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.8 to 2% by weight of acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and

- 0.1 to approximately 4% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 2% by weight of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises:

- 0.6 to 2% by weight of acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer,

- 0.8 to 2% by weight of acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and

- 0.6 to 2% by weight of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

The composition preferably has a pH of about 5.5 to about 8, preferably about 5.5 to about 7.5, more preferably about 5.5 to about 7.

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are stable. For example, the cosmetic compositions do not visually phase separate or form visible particles for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks in storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

In various embodiments, the cosmetic compositions do not visually phase separate or form visible particles during at least 10 freeze-thaw test cycles, wherein the freeze-thaw tests include placing the cosmetic composition in a stability chamber and subjecting it to a temperature fluctuation at 12 hour intervals, for a first interval of 12 hours at -20°C followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25°C.

In various embodiments, the viscosity of the cosmetic compositions does not change by more than 20%, 15%, 10% or 5%, for at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks and/or 8 weeks in storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and/or 45°C.

The cosmetic compositions preferably have a viscosity of about 5,000 to about 200,000 Pa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25°C. However, the cosmetic compositions may have a viscosity of approximately 10,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, of approximately 10,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, of approximately 10,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, of approximately 10,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 10,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, from approximately 10,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s. s, from approximately 15,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, from approximately 20,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, from approximately 30,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 30,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 30,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, from approximately 30,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 30,000 at approximately 100,000 Pa.s, from approximately 30,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 100,000 Pa.s, from approximately 35,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s, d 'approximately 40,000 to approximately 200,000 Pa.s, from approximately 40,000 to approximately 180,000 Pa.s, from approximately 40,000 to approximately 150,000 Pa.s, from approximately 40,000 to approximately 120,000 Pa.s , from about 40,000 to about 100,000 Pa.s, from about 40,000 to about 80,000 Pa.s at 25 °C, and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 at 25 °C.

EXAMPLES

Since various changes may be made in the methods described above without departing from the scope of the invention, it is intended that the entire contents of the above description and the examples given below should be interpreted in an illustrative and not limiting sense.

The following Examples are intended to be non-restrictive and explanatory only. The amounts of ingredients in the compositions/formulas described below are expressed in % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Example 1

Invented we Comparison f HAS B VS D E F C-1 C-2 C-3 (has) Active ingredient ACETYL TRIFLUOROMETHYLPHENYL VALYLGLYCINE 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 (b) Active ingredient HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 (j) Active ingredient (various) MADECASSOSIDE 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 (vs) Taurate copolymer AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER/ VP 1.2 0.7 0.7 1.0 1.2 0.7 1.2 0.7 0.7 ACRYLAMIDE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER 1.0 1.0 0.8 1.0 1.0 1.0 0.5 1.0 0.6 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 - 0.7 (d) Fatty alcohol BEHENYL ALCOHOL AND CETEARYL ALCOHOL 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 (i) Thickening polymer C10-30 POLY ALKYL ACRYLATE 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - (e) Fatty compound ISOHEXADECAN, ISONONYL ISONONANOATE, SQUALANE AND/OR GLYCINE SOYBEAN OIL (SOYBEANS) 9.5 9.5 9.5 9.5 9.5 9.5 9.5 9.5 9.5 (f) Emulsifier
Non-ionic POLYSORBATE 80, CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE,
SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE AND/OR SORBITAN OLEATE 0.5 0.5 0.4 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.4 0.5 0.4 (h) Solvent PROPYLENE GLYCOL 10.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 10.7 1.7 (j) Various emulsifiers/surfactants, salts, preservatives, pH adjusting agents, fragrances, colorants, chelants and/or extracts, etc. ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 (g) Water WATER 54.0 63.6 64.3 63.2 63.0 63.4 55.0 64.4 64.6 Stable O O O O O O NOT NOT NOT

Example 2 (Comparative compositions)

C-4 C-5 C-6 (has) Active ingredient ACETYL TRIFLUOROMETHYLPHENYL VALYLGLYCINE 3.0 3.0 3.0 (b) Active ingredient HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL 15.0 15.0 (vs) Taurate copolymer AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER / VP 1.5 (d) Fatty alcohol BEHENYL ALCOHOL AND CETEARYL ALCOHOL 0.8 Thickening agent SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 1.3 0.4 0.4 (e) Fatty compound ISONONYL ISONONANOATE,
CETEARYL ETHYLHEXANOATE AND/OR CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 3 2.7 2.7
2.7 Silicone DIMETHICONE 0.5 0.5 (f) Emulsifier
Non-ionic CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 0.2 (h) Solvent SE PROPYLENE GLYCOL AND/OR
GLYCERIN 8 10.7 10.7 (j) Various emulsifiers/surfactants, emollients, salts, preservatives, pH adjusting agents, fragrances, colorants, chelants and/or extracts, etc. ≤ 4 ≤ 4 ≤ 4 (g) Water 77 57 58 Stable NOT NOT NOT

Example 3 (Stability tests)

The compositions of Example 1 and Example 2 were subjected to stability studies and assessed visually for phase separation and examined microscopically for particle formation. The compositions were examined during the initial manufacture of the composition (T ₀ ). The compositions were evaluated again after 10 days of freeze-thaw tests. The compositions were placed in a stability chamber and subjected to temperature fluctuation at 12 hour intervals. For 12 hours, the compositions were maintained at -20°C. For the next 12 hours, the compositions were maintained at 25°C. The cycle was repeated 10 times (for 10 days). Separately, the compositions of Example 1 and Example 2 were evaluated after 2 weeks in storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and 45°C, 4 weeks (1 month) in storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and 45°C, and again after 8 weeks (2 months) in storage at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and 45°C and evaluated visually for phase separation and examined microscopically for particle formation.

The compositions of the invention were judged to be stable (“O”) (yes) since they did not visually separate into phases and did not form particles. Comparative Compositions (C-1 to C-6), however, underwent phase separation and formed particles. Therefore, the comparative compositions were judged to be non-stable (“N”) (no).

The data shows, among other things, the importance of including at least two taurate copolymers in an amount of at least 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The preceding description illustrates and describes the invention. The disclosure shows and describes only the preferred embodiments but it is understood that the invention may be used in various other combinations, modifications and environments and may be subject to changes or modifications in the scope of the concepts of the invention as expressed herein, in relation to the above teachings and/or skills or knowledge of the related art. The embodiments described above are further intended to explain the best modes known to applicant and to enable others skilled in the art to use the disclosure in such embodiments, or other embodiments, and with the various modifications required by particular applications or uses thereof. Accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein.

DEFINITIONS

As used herein, a "gel emulsion" is also referred to in the art as an "emulsion gel." A gel emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion, which is a composite structure of oil droplets inside a gel matrix. They can be classified into emulsion-filled gels and particulate emulsion gels.

As used herein, the terms “comprising”, “having” and “including” (or “understand”, “have” and “include”) are used in their open, non-limiting sense. The term “essentially consisting of” limits the scope of a claim to specified materials or steps and those which do not affect the basic and novel features of the claimed invention.

The terms “un”, “une”, “le” and “la” are understood to include the plural as well as the singular.

Thus, the term “a mixture thereof” also refers to “mixtures thereof”. Throughout the disclosure, if the term "a mixture thereof" is used, after a list of elements as shown in the following example where the letters A through F represent the elements: "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, or mixtures thereof. The term "a mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E and F may be included). Instead, it states that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the expression "one or more elements chosen from A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F" .

Likewise, the term “a salt thereof” also includes “salts thereof”. Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or mixtures thereof", it indicates that a or more of A, B, C, D and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included.

Salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal or an ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is non-limiting. Suitable counterions for the components described herein are known in the art.

The expression “one or more” means “at least one” and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

The term “plurality” means “more than one” or “two or more.”

An “alkyl radical” is a group based on saturated hydrocarbon, linear or branched, in particular C ₁ -C ₈ , more particularly C ₁ -C ₆ , preferably C ₁ -C ₄ , such as an methyl, ethyl, isopropyl and tert-butyl;

An “alkoxy radical” is an alkyl-oxy in which the alkyl is as described above;

An “alkenyl radical” is a linear or branched unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group, in particular C ₂ -C ₈ , more particularly C ₂ -C ₆ , preferably C ₂ -C ₄ , such as an ethylenyl, propylenyl;

An “alkylene radical” is a group based on a divalent saturated hydrocarbon, linear or branched, in C ₁ -C ₈ , in particular in C ₁ -C ₆ , preferably in C ₁ -C ₄ , such as methylene , ethylene or propylene

Some of the various categories of components identified for cosmetic compositions may overlap. In cases where overlap may exist and the composition/product includes two overlapping components (or more than two overlapping components), an overlapping component does not represent more than one component. As an example, a fatty acid can be considered both a “non-triglyceride, non-aromatic fatty emollient” and a “surfactant/emulsifier”. If a particular composition/product includes both a non-triglyceride, non-aromatic fatty emollient component and a surfactant/emulsifier component, a single type of fatty acid may serve solely as a non-triglyceride, non-aromatic fatty emollient or surfactant/emulsifier (a single fatty acid does not serve as both a non-triglyceride, non-aromatic fatty emollient component and a surfactant/emulsifier component).

All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention unless otherwise noted.

All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and suitable for combination. For example, any value or point described here that falls within a range described here may serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a subrange, etc. Additionally, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within, and combination of subranges between, the given ranges. So, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes points 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as subranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, from 1 to 4, etc. ; and points 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 include ranges and subranges 1 to 5, 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4 , etc.

Except in operational examples, or if otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions may be modified by the term "approximately", whether expressly stated or not.

Furthermore, all numbers are intended to represent exact values as additional embodiments, whether or not modified by the term "approximately". For example, “an amount of approximately 1%” can be modified to refer to exactly 1%. As an additional example, "an amount of 1%" can be modified to refer to "approximately 1%." Unless otherwise stated, the term “approximately” is understood to encompass a range of +/- 10% of the number stated. However, in some embodiments, the term may be defined to encompass narrower ranges, for example, +/- 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9% and 10% of the number indicated.

The terms “surfactants” and “emulsifiers” include salts of surfactants and emulsifiers even if not explicitly stated. That is, whenever the disclosure refers to a surfactant or emulsifier, it is intended that salts are also encompassed to the extent that such salts exist, even though the specification may not specifically refer to a salt ( or may not refer to a salt in each occurrence of the disclosure), for example, by using a phrase such as "a salt thereof" or "salts thereof". Sodium and potassium are common cations that form salts with surfactants and emulsifiers. However, additional cations such as ammonium ions, or alkanolammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions, can also form surfactant salts.

The term "substantially free" or "substantially free" as used herein indicates that the specific material may be present in small quantities that do not materially affect the basic and novel features of the claimed invention. For example, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the composition (provided that less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the basic and new characteristics of the claimed invention). Likewise, a composition "substantially free" or "substantially free" from a listed material may include less than 1.5% by weight, less than 1% by weight, less than 0.5% by weight, less than 0, 1% by weight, less than 0.05% by weight, or less than 0.01% by weight, or zero quantity of the specified material. The term "substantially free" or "substantially free" as used herein may also mean that the specific material is not added to the composition but may still be present in a raw material that is included in the composition.

Furthermore, any components that are positively stated in the present disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, for example, a claimed composition may be "free", "essentially free" (or "substantially free") of one or more components. which are positively stated in this disclosure. For example, silicones may optionally be included in the cosmetic compositions but preferably the compositions are free or essentially free of silicones. Silicones are synthetic polymers made up of repeating units of siloxane, silicon and elemental oxygen, combined with other elements, most commonly carbon and hydrogen. Thus, silicones are also called polysiloxanes. In some cases, the cosmetic compositions herein may be free or essentially free of dimethicones, amodimethicones, dimethiconols, cyclosiloxanes, siloxanes, etc.

All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are hereby incorporated by reference, and for all purposes, as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated as being incorporated by reference. In the event of any inconsistency between this disclosure and any publication or patent application incorporated herein by reference, this disclosure takes precedence.

Claims (10)

Cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) about 1 to about 5 weight percent acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine;
(b) about 10 to about 40 weight percent hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol;
(c) about 2 to about 15 weight percent of two or more taurate copolymers;
(d) about 0.5 to about 10% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols;
(e) about 5 to about 25% by weight of one or more fatty compounds;
(f) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers; And
(g) water;
wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably a gel emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the two or more taurate copolymers are selected from an acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, an acryloyl dimethyl copolymer ammonium taurate/VP, a sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and a mixture thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the one or more fatty alcohols are chosen from C ₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the one or more fatty compounds are chosen from fatty esters (isononyl isononanoate), polyolefins (petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, plant and/or vegetable oil, hydrocarbon-based oils (isohexadecane), and a mixture thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising from approximately 35 to approximately 85% by weight of water. Composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition does not visually phase separate or form particles for at least 2 weeks when stored at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and/or 45 °C; and/or the composition does not visually phase separate or form particles during at least 10 freeze-thaw test cycles, wherein the freeze-thaw tests include placing the cosmetic composition in a stability chamber and subjecting it to a temperature fluctuation at 12 hour intervals, for a first interval of 12 hours at -20°C followed by a second interval of 12 hours at 25°C. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims having a pH of about 5.5 to about 7.5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims having a viscosity of approximately 20,000 to approximately 80,000 Pa.s at 25°C, and a shear rate of 1 s^-1 at 25°C. Kit comprising the cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims and one or more additional skin treatment compositions, wherein the cosmetic composition and each of the one or more skin treatment compositions are contained separately. Method of treating the skin comprising the application of the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the skin.