FR3070127B1 - AQUEOUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CHEMICAL OXIDIZING AGENT, A FIXING POLYMER AND MONTMORILLONITE - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising (i) one or more chemical oxidizing agents, (ii) one or more fixing polymers, (iii) montmorillonite, and (iv) water, the pH of the composition being less than or equal to 7. The subject of the present invention is also the use of the above composition for shaping and lightening keratinous fibers, especially human keratin fibers such as the hair. Finally, the subject of the present invention is a process for shaping and lightening keratinous fibers comprising a step of applying to said fibers of the above composition.

Description

AQUEOUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CHEMICAL OXIDIZING AGENT, A FIXING POLYMER AND MONTMORILLONITE

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising (i) one or more chemical oxidizing agents, (ii) one or more fixing polymers, (iii) montmorillonite, and (iv) water, the pH of the composition being less than or equal to 7.

The subject of the present invention is also the use of the above composition for shaping and lightening keratinous fibers, and especially human keratinous fibers such as the hair.

Finally, the subject of the present invention is a process for shaping and lightening keratinous fibers comprising a step of applying to said fibers of the above composition.

For a long time, many people have been trying to change the color of their hair. In cosmetics, in the areas of dyeing, bleaching and permanent deformation of keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, oxidizing compositions which contain one or more oxidants are generally used. Among these oxidizing agents, the most conventionally used are hydrogen peroxide or compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis, such as urea peroxide or persalts such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates, hydrogen peroxide and persulfates being particularly preferred.

In parallel, in the field of styling, in particular among hair products intended for shaping and / or maintaining the hairstyle, the hair compositions generally consist of a solution that is usually alcoholic or aqueous and or several fixing polymers in mixtures with various cosmetic adjuvants.

These compositions may be in the form of gels, lotions, foams or hair spray which are generally applied to wet hair before blow drying or drying.

The current trend is looking for two-in-one product. This allows the user to use a single product instead of two, which saves time and eliminates the need to use several different products.

In particular, it may be advantageous to combine a composition intended for shaping the hair and / or maintaining the hairstyle while gradually lightening the keratinous fibers during successive applications. Thus, the user can associate with a gesture for example daily, shaping the hair and / or maintaining the hairstyle, a cosmetic treatment consisting in lightening the hair.

However, the chemical oxidizing agent (s) necessary for the discoloration generally require an acidic composition (that is to say less than 7), which is not necessarily compatible with the fixing polymer (s) necessary for a composition intended for the shaping the hair and / or maintaining the hairstyle.

Thus, it has been found that compositions comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents and one or more fixing polymers, at acidic pH, have stability problems in storage time. In particular, these compositions may have a phase shift (release) after two months at 45 ° C.

Therefore, there is a need to provide a composition for shaping the hair and / or maintaining the hairstyle while progressively lightening the keratin fibers during successive applications, which is stable over time storage.

The desired composition should also provide light fixation properties, texture and volume to the hair, have a non-sticky and creamy texture and be easy to apply.

It has now been discovered that a particular clay, montmorillonite, introduced into an aqueous composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents and one or more fixing polymers and having a pH of less than or equal to 7, makes it possible to obtain a composition allowing the shaping the keratinous fibers and / or maintaining them while progressively brightening the keratinous fibers during successive applications and which makes it possible to overcome the aforementioned drawbacks.

Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising (i) one or more chemical oxidizing agents, (ii) one or more fixing polymers, (iii) montmorillonite, and (iv) water, and having a pH less than or equal to 7.

The composition according to the invention is stable in storage over time, both at ambient temperature (20 ° C.-25 ° C.) and at higher temperatures, in particular at 45 ° C.

According to the present invention, the term "storage-stable" means that the following physical characteristics of the composition vary little or no change over time: appearance, pH, rheology (viscosity, consistency), oxidizing agents.

In particular, the composition does not give rise to phenomena of phase shift (release) or exudation over time, especially after 2 months of storage, particularly at the target storage temperature, especially at 45 ° C.

In addition, the composition according to the invention has a constant content of oxidizing agents during storage time.

The composition according to the invention also provides fixing properties, texture and volume to the hair, has a non-sticky and creamy texture and is easy to apply.

Moreover, the composition according to the invention leads to a soft touch of the hair.

The present invention also relates to the use of the above composition, for shaping and / or maintaining the hairstyle of keratinous fibers, preferably human keratinous fibers such as the hair.

The subject of the present invention is also the use of the above composition for lightening keratinous fibers, preferably human keratinous fibers such as the hair.

Finally, the subject of the present invention is a process for shaping and lightening keratinous fibers, preferably human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising a step of applying to said fibers of the above composition. Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field, especially in the expressions "between" and "from ... to ...".

In addition, the expressions "at least one" and "at least" used in the present description are respectively equivalent to the terms "one or more" and "greater than or equal to".

According to the present patent application, the term "keratinous fibers" denotes mainly human keratinous fibers, and in particular the hair.

The composition according to the invention comprises (i) one or more chemical oxidizing agents.

By chemical oxidizing agent is meant an oxidizing agent different from the oxygen of the air.

Preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent (s) is (are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors, alkali metal or alkaline earth percarbonates, such as peroxygen peroxide, sodium carbonate or sodium percarbonate and peracids and their precursors; alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, solid hydrogen peroxide-generating oxidizing agents such as urea peroxide and polymeric complexes capable of releasing hydrogen peroxide, especially those comprising a vinyl heterocyclic monomer such as polyvinylpyrrolidone complexes; LbCh in particular being in the form of powders; the oxidases producing hydrogen peroxide in the presence of a suitable substrate (for example glucose in the case of glucose oxidase or uric acid with uricase).

Preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent (s) is (are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, and mixtures of these compounds,

In a particularly preferred manner, the chemical oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

Preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent or agents represent from 0.05 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, and better still from 1.5 to 30% by weight. 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more fixing polymers.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "fixing polymer" is intended to mean any polymer which, by application to the hair, is capable of conferring a shape on the hair or of allowing a shape already acquired to be maintained.

The fixing polymer (s) used are preferably chosen from anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof. As anionic fixing polymers, mention may be made of polymers containing groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acids, and having a number-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5000000.

The carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated monoacid or dicarboxylic acid monomers, such as those corresponding to the following formula (I):

in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, A denotes a methylene group, optionally linked to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom such as that oxygen or sulfur, R 1 denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group, R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or carboxyl, R 3 denotes an atom of hydrogen, an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a CH 2 -COOH group, phenyl or benzyl.

In the formula (I) above, the alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms may in particular designate the methyl and ethyl groups.

The anionic fixing polymers containing carboxylic or sulphonic groups are: A) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their salts, of which the copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide and the copolymers of methacrylic acid / acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate methyl methacrylate, in particular AMERHOLD DR 25 marketed by AMERCHOL, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids. Mention may also be made of methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers, especially in aqueous dispersion, such as the Luviflex Softs and Luvimerars sold by the company BASF. B) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol, and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent 1,222,944 and German Application No. 2,330,956, copolymers of this type.

comprising in their chain an acrylamide unit optionally N alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated such as described in particular in the Luxembourg patent applications 75370 and 75371. Mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic acid and of C1-C4 alkyl methacrylate.

As another anionic fixing polymer of this family, mention may also be made of the anionic block polymer plugged butyl acrylate / acrylic acid / methacrylic acid sold under the name Fixate G-100 L by the company LUBRIZOL (INCI name AMP-ACYLATES / ALLYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER ). C) copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as those comprising in their chain vinyl acetate or propionate units, and optionally other monomers such as the allyl or methallyl ester, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a saturated carboxylic acid, linear or branched, long hydrocarbon chain, such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers may optionally be grafted and crosslinked, or a vinyl ester, allyl or methallylique a carboxylic acid a or b cyclic. Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French patents Nos. 1,222,944, 1,580,545, 2,265,782, 2,265,781, 1,564,110 and 2,439,798. Commercial products in this class are the resins 28 29 30, 26 13 14 and 28 13 10 sold by the company NATIONAL STARCH.

Mention may also be made, as a copolymer derived from crotonic acid, of crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate terpolymers and in particular MEXOMERE PW supplied by CHIMEX. D) Polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters; these polymers can be esterified. Such polymers are described in particular in US Pat. Nos. 2,047,398, 2,723,248, 2,102,113 and GB 839,805, and in particular those sold under the names GANTREZ® AN or ES by the company ISP.

Polymers also falling into this class are copolymers of maleic anhydride, citraconic anhydride, itaconic anhydride and an allylic or methallyl ester optionally containing an acrylamide, methacrylamide, an α-olefin, acrylic or methacrylic acid, acrylic or methacrylic acid group. or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions are monoesterified or monoamidified. These polymers are for example described in French patents 2,350,384 and 2,357,241 of the applicant. E) Polyacrylamides having carboxylate groups. F) polymers comprising sulfonic groups. These polymers may be polymers comprising vinylsulphonic, styrene-sulphonic, naphthalenesulphonic, acylamido-alkylsulphonic, sulfoisophthalate units.

These polymers may be chosen in particular from: - the salts of polyvinylsulphonic acid having a molecular mass of between approximately 1000 and 100000, as well as copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids, and their esters, and also acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone; the salts of polystyrenesulfonic acid, the sodium salts, having a molecular mass of approximately 500,000 and of approximately 100,000. These compounds are described in patent FR 2198719; polyacrylamidesulfonic acid salts such as those mentioned in US Pat. No. 4,128,631; G) grafted anionic silicone polymers;

The grafted silicone polymers used are preferably chosen from polymers having a non-silicone organic skeleton grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane, polymers with a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers and mixtures thereof. H) Anionic polyurethanes, which may comprise silicone grafts and silicones with hydrocarbon grafts. As examples of fixing polyurethane, there may be mentioned the copolymer dimethylolpropionic acid / isophorone-diisocyanate / neopentylglycol / polyesterdiols (also known as polyurethane-1, INCI designation) sold under the trademark Luviset® PUR by the company BASF , the dimethylol-propionic acid / isophorone-diisocyanate / neopentylglycol / polyesterdiols / silicone diamine copolymer (also known by the name of polyurethane-6, INCI designation) sold under the trade name Luviset® Si PUR A by the company BASF.

As another anionic polyurethane, AVALURE UR 450 can also be used.

It is also possible to use polymers containing sulphoisophthalate groups, such as the polymers AQ55 and AQ48 marketed by Eastman.

According to the invention, the anionic polymers are preferably chosen from acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer sold under the name ULTRAHOLD STRONG® by the company BASF, the methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate, especially in aqueous dispersion, such as LUVIFLEX SOFT and LUVIMER MAE marketed by BASF. Copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28 2930 by the company Akzo Nobel, polymers derivatives of maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, such as the methyl vinyl ether / monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymer sold under the name GANTREZ® ES 425 by ISP, LUVISET SI PUR, MEXOMERE PW, anionic polyurethanes elastomers or not, polymers with sulfoisophthalate groups.

The cationic fixing polymers that can be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from polymers containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly connected thereto, and having a molecular weight between 500 and about 5000000 and preferably between 1000 and 3000000.

Among these polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the following cationic polymers: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the following units of formulas:

in which: R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group; A is a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R4, R5, R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group;

R 1 and R 2, which are identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

X denotes a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of the family (1) additionally contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones-acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups. groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

Thus, among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of: copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC® by the company HERCULES, copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyl-trimethyl-ammonium chloride described for example in the patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY , the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyl-trimethyl-ammonium methosulphate such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules, the vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate quaternized or non-quaternized copolymers, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT®" by ISP, such as "GAFQUAT® 734" or "GAFQUAT® 755", or the products referred to as "COPOLYMER®" 845, 958 and 937 ". These polymers are described in detail in French Pat. Nos. 2,077,143 and 2,393,573, the polymers with a fatty chain and with a vinylpyrrolidone unit, such as the products sold under the name Stylèze W20 and Stylèze W10 by ISP, and terpolymers. dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl-capro-lactam / vinylpyrrolidone, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP, and - and the quaternized dimethylamino-propyl vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide copolymers such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT® HS 100" by ISP. (2) cationic, preferably quaternary ammonium guar gums such as those described in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307 such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 by MEYHALL. (3) quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole; (4) chitosans or their salts; the salts which can be used are, in particular, chitosan acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrolidone carboxylate.

Among these compounds, mention may be made of chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of 90.5% by weight sold under the name KYTAN BRUT STANDARD by ABER TECHNOLOGIES, the pyrrolidone carboxylate of chitosan sold under the name KYTAMER® PC by the company Amerchol. (5) cationic cellulose derivatives such as copolymers of cellulose or of cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer comprising a quaternary ammonium, and described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl- hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl cellulose grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium.

The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "CELQUAT L 200" and "CELQUAT H 100" by the company National Starch.

The amphoteric fixing polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention may be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C statistically distributed in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acidic monomer having one or more carboxylic or sulphonic groups or else B and C may denote groups derived from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or of sulphobetaines; B and C may also designate a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulphonic group connected via a hydrocarbon group, or Well B and C are part of a chain of an ethylene-dicarboxylic-containing polymer having one of the carboxylic groups reacted with a polyamine having one or more primary or secondary amine groups.

The amphoteric polymers as defined above, which are more particularly preferred, are chosen from the following polymers: 1) the polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound carrying a carboxylic group such as more particularly acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylate and acrylate , dialkylaminoalkyl-methacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in U.S. Patent No. 3,836,537.

The vinyl compound may also be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as diethyldiallyl ammonium chloride. 2) polymers comprising units derived from: a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with an alkyl group; b) with at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups and c) at least one basic comonomer such as primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituent esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.

The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are the groups in which the alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide and N-octylacrylamide. . N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.

The acidic comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic and fumaric acids as well as alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides. Preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, Ν, Ν'-dimethylaminoethyl, N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates. The copolymers whose CTFA (4th Ed., 1991) name is octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER® or LOVOCRYL® 47 by the company National Starch, are particularly used. 3) polyamino amides crosslinked and partially or completely alkylated derived from polyaminoamides of general formula (II):

wherein R4 represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, an ethylenically double bonded mono or dicarboxylic acid, an ester of an alcohol

having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or a group deriving from the addition of any of said acids with a primary bis or bis secondary amine, and Z denotes a group of a primary polyalkylene bis-polyamine , mono or bis secondary and preferably represents: a) in the proportions of 60 to 100 mol%, the group

where x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or x = 3 and p = 2 this group derived from diethylene triamine, triethylene tetraamine or dipropylene triamine; b) in the proportions of 0 to 40 mol%, the group (III) above, in which x = 2 and p = 1 and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or the group derived from piperazine

c) in the proportions of 0 to 20 mol%, the group -NH- (CÜ2) 6-NH- derived from hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamines being crosslinked by addition of a bifunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides , dianhydrides, bis unsaturated derivatives, by means of 0.025 to 0.35 mole of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide and alkylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane-sultone or their salts.

The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid and 2,4,4-trimethyladipic acid, terephthalic acid, ethylenically double-bonded acids such as for example, acrylic, methacrylic, itaconic acids. The alkane sultones used in the alkylation are preferably propane- or

butane-sultone, the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts. 4) polymers comprising zwitterionic units of formula (IV):

in which Rs denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z each represent an integer from 1 to 3, R 6 and R 7 represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl or propyl, Rs and R9 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sum of the carbon atoms in Rs and R9 does not exceed 10.

Polymers comprising such units may also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers, such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate, or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl acetate. . 5) polymers derived from chitosan having monomeric units corresponding to the following formulas:

the unit (V) being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the unit (VI) in proportions of between 5 and 50% and the unit (VII) in proportions of between 30 and 90%, it being understood that in this unit (VII), Rio represents a group of formula:

in which if q = 0, Ru, R12 and R13, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue optionally interrupted by one or more carbon atoms. nitrogen and / or optionally substituted by one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio, sulphonic groups, an alkylthio residue whose alkyl group carries an amino residue NR17R18R19, at least one of the groups R17, Ris and R19 being in this group. case a hydrogen atom; or if q = 1, R 11, R 12 and R 13 each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids.

6) The polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan. 7) The polymers of units corresponding to the general formula (IX) described for example in the French patent 1,400,366:

wherein R14 represents a hydrogen atom, a CH3O group, CH3CH2O, phenyl, R15 denotes hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl group such as methyl and ethyl, R16 denotes hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl group; such as methyl and ethyl, R17 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl group such as methyl and ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -Ri8-N (Ri6) 2, Ris representing a group -CH2-CH2-, -CH2- CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH (CH3) -, Rie having the meanings mentioned above, as well as the higher homologues of these groups and containing up to 6 carbon atoms. 8) amphoteric polymers of the type -D-X-D-X- selected from: a) the polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds comprising at least one unit of formula:

where D is a group

and X denotes the symbol E or E ', E or E', which may be identical or different, denote a bivalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group having up to 7 carbon atoms in the unsubstituted or substituted primary chain. hydroxyl groups, and which may further comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulphoxide, sulphone, sulphonium, alkylamine, alkenylamine, hydroxyl groups, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide groups, alcohol, ester and / or urethane. b) polymers of formula:

where D is a group

and X denotes the symbol E or E 'and at least once E'; E having the meaning indicated above and E 'is a bivalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, substituted or unsubstituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and having one or more a plurality of nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an optionally interrupted alkyl chain by an oxygen atom and necessarily comprising one or more carboxyl functions or one or more

several hydroxyl functions and betaineized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate. 9) (C 1 -C 5) alkyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with an N, N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semi-esterification with a Ν, Ν-dialkanolamine. These copolymers may also comprise other vinylic comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam.

The amphoteric fixing polymers that may be used in the composition according to the invention may in particular be chosen from branched block copolymers, comprising: (a) nonionic units derived from at least one monomer chosen from (meth) acrylates; C1-C20alkyl, N-mono- (C2-C12alkyl) - (meth) acrylamides and N, N-di- (C2-C12alkyl) - (meth) acrylamide, (b) anionic units derivatives of at least one monomer chosen from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and (c) polyfunctional units derived from at least one monomer comprising at least two polymerizable unsaturated functional groups, and preferably having a structure consisting of hydrophobic blocks on which are fixed, through the polyfunctional units (c), several more hydrophilic blocks.

Preferably, the amphoteric polymers have at least two glass transition temperatures (Tg) of which at least one is greater than 20 ° C and the other is less than 20 ° C.

The preferred amphoteric polymers are polymers comprising units derived from: a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with an alkyl group; b) with at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and c) at least one basic comonomer such as primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituted esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl.

Mention may be made in particular of the polymers sold under the name AMPHOMER by the company National Starch.

The fixing polymer (s) used in the composition of the invention may advantageously be chosen from nonionic fixing polymers.

The nonionic fixing polymers that can be used according to the present invention are chosen, for example, from: polyalkyloxazolines, vinyl acetate homopolymers, vinyl acetate copolymers, such as, for example, copolymers of vinyl acetate, vinyl acetate and acrylic ester, copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and maleic ester, for example, dibutyl maleate, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic esters, such as, for example, copolymers of alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, such as the products offered by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names PRIMAL® AC-261 K and EUDRAGIT® NE 30 D, by the company BASF under the name 8845, by HOECHST under the name APPRETAN® N9212, - copolymers of acrylonitrile and a non-monomer ionic chosen, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth) acrylates, such as the products sold under the name CJ 0601 B by the company ROHM & HAAS, homopolymers of styrene, styrene copolymers such as, for example, styrene and alkyl (meth) acrylate copolymers, such as the products MOWILITH® LDM 6911, MOWILITH® DM 611 and MOWILITH® LDM 6070 proposed by HOECHST, RHODOPAS® SD 215 and RHODOPAS® DS 910 products offered by the company RHONE POULENC, copolymers of styrene, of alkyl methacrylate and of alkyl acrylate, copolymers of styrene and butadiene, or copolymers of styrene, butadiene and vinylpyridine, polyamides, homopolymers of vinyllactam, such as homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, polyvinylcaprolactam sold under the name Luviskol® PLUS by the company BASF, copolymers of vinyllactam, such as poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyllactam) copolymers, such as that sold under the trade name Luvitec® VPC 55K65W by the company BASF, the poly (vinylpyrrolidone / acetate) copolymers vinyl) as those sold under the name PVPVA® S630L by ISP, Luviskol® VA 73, VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 28 by BASF, and poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate / propionate) terpolymers vinyl) as, for example, that sold under the name Luviskol® VAP 343 by BASF, and - polyvinyl alcohol, and - mixtures of these polymers.

The alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above preferably have from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the fixing polymer or polymers are chosen from nonionic fixing polymers, preferably such as those mentioned above.

Most preferably, the nonionic fixing polymer or polymers are chosen from homo or copolymers of vinyllactam, preferably vinyllactam copolymers, more preferably chosen from poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyllactam) copolymers, poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate), poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate / vinyl propionate) terpolymers and mixtures of these polymers, and even more preferentially, the fixing polymer is a nonionic fixing polymer chosen from poly (vinylpyrrolidone / acetate) copolymers. vinyl).

Preferably, the fixing polymer or polymers represent from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises montmorillonite. This can be of natural origin or synthesis.

It is thus possible to use a natural clay rich in montmorillonite such as the clays known under the name Terre de Sommières. As an example of synthetic montmorillonite, mention may be made of montmorillonite sold under the name GEL WHITE H by ROCKWOOD ADDITIVES or GEL WHITE-H XR by BYK ADDITIVES & INSTRUMENTS. We can also mention the montmorillonite marketed under the name Kunipia G4 by the company Kunimine.

Preferably, the montmorillonite represents from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 8% by weight, and better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may preferably further comprise one or more fatty substances.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty substance" is intended to mean an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (20-25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa), having a solubility in water of less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.1%. The fatty substances generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

Fatty substances are moreover generally not (poly) oxyalkylenated and not (poly) glycerolated. In other words, the fatty substances do not comprise in their structure a unit (poly) ethylene oxide or (poly) glycerol or (poly) propylene glycol.

The fatty substance (s) may be chosen from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances (also known as "oils"), and mixtures thereof.

By "oil" is meant a "fatty substance" which is liquid that is to say which is capable of flowing under the action of its own weight at ambient temperature (25 ° C.), and at atmospheric pressure ( 760 mm Hg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). Preferably, the viscosity at a temperature of 25 ° C. and at a shear rate of 1 sec -1 of the oil is between 10-3 Pa.s and 2 Pa.s. It can be measured with a Thermo Haake RS600 rheometer with plane cone geometry or equivalent device.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid fatty substance" means a non-liquid fatty substance at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa), in particular a solid compound. or a compound having a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s at a shear rate of 1 s -1 under the conditions mentioned above.

The solid fatty substances that may be used in the composition according to the invention generally have a melting temperature greater than ambient temperature, preferably a melting point greater than or equal to 40 ° C., preferably ranging from 46 to 95 ° C.

In particular, the one or more fatty substances may be chosen from hydrocarbonaceous fatty substances, silicone fatty substances, fluorinated fatty substances, and mixtures of these compounds.

The term "silicone fatty substance" means a fatty substance containing at least one silicon atom. By "non-silicone fatty substance" is meant a fatty substance that does not contain a silicon atom (Si).

According to one embodiment, the silicone fatty substances may be a liquid silicone oil (also called silicone oil or liquid silicone). By "liquid silicone" is meant an organopolysiloxane liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa).

Preferably, the liquid silicone (s) are chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

The polydialkylsiloxanes are chosen in particular from polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups, and polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA). Polyorganosiloxanes containing aryl groups, especially chosen from polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes.

By "fluorinated fatty substance" is meant a fatty substance containing at least one fluorine atom.

In particular, fluorinated oils that may be mentioned include fluorinated oils such as perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl®" by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M.

By "hydrocarbonaceous fatty substance" is meant a fatty substance formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing silicon atom atoms. or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

In particular, preferably, the hydrocarbon fats or oils are selected from hydrocarbon oils and hydrocarbon solids, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the hydrocarbonaceous fatty substance or fuels are advantageously chosen from hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms, C6-C10 alkanes, vegetable oils or triglycerides, liquid synthetic triglycerides, fatty alcohols, esters and the like. fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol different from triglycerides and non-silicone waxes, or mixtures thereof.

As indicated above, the hydrocarbonaceous fatty substance (s) may be hydrocarbon oils.

In a preferred manner, the hydrocarbon-based oils are chosen from: linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, halogenated or non-halogenated, of less than 16 carbon atoms, such as hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, or more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid petrolatum, paraffin oil, polydecenes of formula CionH [(2On) +2] in which n varies from 3 at 9 and preferably from 3 to 7, and mixtures thereof. unsaturated or branched liquid fatty alcohols having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as those of formula CnfBn + iOH with n an integer between 6 and 20 inclusive. Oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol may be mentioned in particular , linoleic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and octyldodecanol. triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides as sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names

Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; and the different liquid esters of the triglycerides.

These esters are preferably the liquid esters of linear or branched C 1 -C 26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of linear or branched C 1 -C 26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, sodium isononanoate and the like. 2-ethylhexyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

It is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar alcohols di-, tri- , tetra or pentahydroxyl C4-C26.

These include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristates of alkyls such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate.

The composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars and of C6-C30 fatty acids, preferably of C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that "sugar" is understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

The hydrocarbon-based oils are preferably chosen from polydecenes of formula CionH [(2On) + 2] in which n varies from 3 to 9 and preferably from 3 to 7, fatty alcohols, esters and in particular alcohol esters. fatty or fatty acids, esters or diesters of C12-C24 fatty acid sugars, or cyclic esters, cyclic ethers, mineral oils, vegetable oils or animal oils, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the liquid fatty substance or fats are chosen from polydecenes of formula CionH [(2On) + 2] in which n varies from 3 to 9 and preferably from 3 to 7, fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol or isostearyl alcohol, esters of fatty alcohols or fatty acids, liquid petrolatum, paraffin oil, and mixtures thereof.

When the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty substances, the body or bodies that are liquid at room temperature are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a second preferred variant of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty substance, preferably hydrocarbon. The composition according to the invention thus comprises one or more solid hydrocarbonaceous fatty substances.

Preferably, the solid fatty substance or fats are chosen from fatty alcohols and fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, and / or waxes and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from waxes and / or solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the solid fatty substance or fats are hydrocarbon fats, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or solid fatty alcohol esters, waxes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the solid hydrocarbonaceous fatty substances are chosen from waxes and / or solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, solid fatty alcohols having from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and / or solid esters derived from C 9 -C 26 fatty acids and fatty alcohols. in C9-C26.

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, having from 14 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol (s) are chosen from saturated and linear fatty alcohols having from 14 to 30 and preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

In addition, it is understood that the fatty alcohols do not comprise (s) (poly) oxyalkylene C2-C3 unit (s) nor pattern (s) (poly) glycerol (s).

Preferably, the solid fatty substance or fats are chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. Stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol and / or cetylstearyl alcohol may be preferably used.

According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the hydrocarbon solid fatty substance or fats may also be chosen from fatty acid esters and / or solid fatty alcohol esters, which may be mentioned especially solid esters derived from C9-C26 fatty acids and C9-C26 fatty alcohols.

Preferably, these esters may be chosen from octyldodecyl behenate, isoketyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl, mirystyl or stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate, preferably preferably selected from myristyl stearate and / or myristyl palmitate, such as for example the mixture of myristyl stearate and myristyl palmitate marketed under the reference Crodamol Ms-PA (SG) by the Croda company.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" is intended to mean a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30 ° C. go up to 120 ° C.

The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER.

In a preferred manner, the measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C. to 100 ° C., at the heating rate of 10 ° C./min, and is then cooled from 100 ° C. to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The wax may especially have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa, and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive force measured at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2® by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm. moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

The waxes may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based or fluorinated and may be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin. In particular, the waxes have a melting point greater than 25 ° C. and better still greater than 45 ° C.

The wax or waxes that can be used according to the invention may be chosen from apolar waxes.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar wax" is intended to mean a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C as defined below, δa is equal to 0 (J / cm 3) 1 /

The apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.

In particular, apolar wax means a wax which consists solely of apolar wax and not a mixture which also includes other types of waxes which are not apolar waxes. As examples of apolar waxes that are suitable for the invention, there may be mentioned hydrocarbon-based waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes and polyethylene waxes.

As polyethylene wax, there may be mentioned PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE and PERFORMALENE 400 POLYETHYLENE marketed by New Phase Technologies.

As polymethylene wax, mention may be made CIREBELLE108 marketed by Cirebelle.

As ozokerite mention may be made OZOKERITE WAX SP 1020 P.

As microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of MULTIWAX W 445® marketed by the company SONNEBORN and MICROWAX HW® and BASE WAX 30540® marketed by PARAMELT.

As microwaxes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention as apolar wax, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene microwires such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO Powders.

The wax or waxes that can be used according to the invention may be chosen by polar waxes.

By "polar" wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C δa is different from 0 (J / cm3) '/ 2.

In particular, "polar" wax is understood to mean a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen atom. , nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space: - δd characterizes the LONDON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; - δρ characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; hh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.) type; - δa is determined by the equation: δa = (δp2 + δh2) / 2.

The parameters δρ, ôh, ôd and ôa are expressed in (J / cm3) 1 /

The polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon, fluorinated or silicone.

By "silicone wax" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

By "hydrocarbon wax" is meant a wax formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

According to a first preferred embodiment, the polar wax is a hydrocarbon wax. As hydrocarbon polar wax, a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is particularly preferred.

By "ester wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

Ester waxes may be used as ester waxes, such as those chosen from: i) waxes of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 and R 2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 at 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and whose melting point temperature varies from 25 to 120 ° C. In particular, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate, may be used as ester wax. Such waxes are sold, for example, under the names "Rester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®", "Stay Wax K 80 P®" or "Rester WAX K82H" by the company Koster Keunen.

It is also possible to use a montanate (octacosanoate) of glycol and butylene glycol, such as the wax LICOWAX KPS FLAKES (INCI name: montanate glycol) marketed by Clariant. ii) di- (trimethylol-1,1,1-propane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE, iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R 3 - (- OCO-R4-COO-Rs), wherein R3 and R5 are the same or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents an aliphatic group of C4-C30 (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) linear branched which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations, and preferably linear and unsaturated, iv) We may also mention the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal oils or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, for example hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and the like. waxes obtained by hydrogenation castor oil ion esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190 and the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol such as that sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57" or else; (vi) beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylene lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax , Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax; sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax. As alcohol wax, there may be mentioned, for example, the Performacol 550-L Alcohol wax from New Phase Technologie, stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol.

The wax or waxes may be more particularly chosen from beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylene lanolin wax, wax of rice, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax; sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax.

More preferably still the wax or waxes may be chosen from beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, and mixtures thereof, and in particular beeswax.

When it is present, the wax generally represents from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, and better still from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. .

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty substance that is solid at ambient temperature, in particular chosen from those as described above.

When the composition comprises one or more solid fatty substances, they represent a total content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight and more preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition.

When the composition comprises one or more fatty substances, they represent a total content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight and more preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight. composition

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances, preferably one or more hydrocarbonaceous fatty substances, more preferably one or more solid hydrocarbonaceous fatty substances, in particular chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters. and / or solid fatty alcohols, waxes, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from waxes and / or solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more surfactants, more particularly chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

In a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more nonionic surfactants.

The nonionic surfactant (s) that can be used according to the invention are described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. PORTER, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols, (C 1 -C 20) alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. carbon, the number of ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide may range from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups may range from 2 to 30.

Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, esters of polyoxyalkylenated fatty acids, alkylpolyglycosides, optionally oxyalkylenated, esters of alkylglucosides, derivatives of N-alkylglucamine and N-acyl-methylglucamine, aldobionamides and amine oxides.

Unless stated otherwise, for these surfactants, the term "fatty" compound (for example a fatty acid) denotes a compound comprising in its main chain at least one saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2 ', SO3H, SO3', OSO3H, OSO3; O2PO2H, O2PO2H-, O2PO22 ·.

The anionic surfactant (s) that can be used according to the invention are chosen from alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkyl aryl sulphonates and alpha olefins. sulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether carboxylic acid salts ; or the non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.

Some of these compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C 6 -C 24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and polyglycoside-sulphosuccinates. C6-C24 alkyl.

When the anionic surfactant (s) are in salt form, they are not in the form of zinc salts, and they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine and especially aminoalcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt. By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino- 2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.

The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

Alkyl (C6-C24) sulphates, alkyl (C6-C24) ether sulphates, optionally oxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form of alkali metal salts, are preferably used. alkaline earth, ammonium, aminoalcohol. More preferably, the anionic surfactant (s) are chosen from (C 10 -C 20) alkyl ether sulphates, and in particular sodium lauryl ether sulphate containing 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide.

The term "cationic surfactant" means a surfactant positively charged when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or contain one or more cationizable functions within the composition according to the invention.

The cationic surfactant (s) are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain. As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may be made, for example: - those corresponding to the following general formula (XII):

in which the groups R 1 to R 4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R 1 to R4 designating a

linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from C1-C30alkyl, C1-C30alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30alkylamide, (C2-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkyl, ( C12-C22) acetate, and hydroxyalkyl C1-C30; X 'is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulfates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylarylsulfonates.

Of the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (XII), tetraalkylammonium salts, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group has from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred. carbon, in particular the salts of behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium or, on the other hand, the salts of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, of stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium, the salts of stearamidopropyldimethylcétéaryl ammonium, or the salts of stearamidopropyldimethyl- (myristylacetate) ammonium. sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by VAN DYK. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of its compounds. the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of formula (XIII) below:

in which FU represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, Rs represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X 'is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates alkyl, sulphates, alkyl or alkylaryl sulphonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably comprise 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively. Preferably, R 5 and R 6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 7 denotes a methyl group, R x denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO; the di or quaternary triammonium salts, in particular of formula (XIV):

in which R 9 denotes an alkyl radical comprising from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R 10 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R9a) (R10a) (Riia) N- (CH2) 3, R9a, R10a, Rua, R11, R12, R13 and R14, which may be identical or different, are chosen from

hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X "is an anion chosen from the group of the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates Such compounds are for example the Finquat CT-P proposed by the company FINETEX

(Quaternium 89), the Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75), - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (XV) below:

in which :

Ris is selected from C 1 -C 6 alkyl groups and C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

Riô is chosen from: - the group

the groups R20 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups, - the hydrogen atom,

Ris is chosen from: - the group

the groups R22 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based groups, R 17, R 19 and R 21, which are identical or different, are chosen from C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X "is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic;

with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R6 is R20 and that when z is 0 then R1 is R22.

The alkyl groups R15 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R15 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When RiO is a hydrocarbon R20 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When Ris is a hydrocarbon R22 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R17, R19 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or saturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. or unsaturated.

Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2. The anion X "is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate, more particularly methyl sulphate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. is still more particularly chloride or methylsulfate.

In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (XV) may be used more particularly in which: R 15 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is 0 or 1; r, s and t are 2;

Riô is chosen from: - the group

- methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, - the hydrogen atom;

Ris is chosen from: - the group

- the hydrogen atom; R17, R19 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups; .

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

There may be mentioned for example the compounds of formula (XV) such as the salts (especially chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, with C10-C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids. plant or animal origin, or by

transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methanesulfonate. methyl, para-toluenesulfonate methyl, chlorohydrin glycol or glycerol.

Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

The behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride proposed by KAO can be used under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.

Preferably the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that can be used, it is preferred to use dipalmethylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium salts.

The cationic surfactants are preferably chosen from those of formula (XII) and those of formula (XV), and even more preferably from those of formula (XII).

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) that may be used according to the invention may be in particular derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may in particular be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 3 -C 8) alkylbetaines or (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 6 -C 8) alkylsulfobetaines. .

Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which may be used, as defined above, there may also be mentioned the following compounds of structures (B1) and (B2):

Formula (B1) in which:

Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an RaCOOH acid, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and

Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and X "represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, preferably chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methylsulphate and ethylsulphate, or else M + and X "are absent;

Wherein B is -CH2-CH2-O-X '; B 'represents the group - (CFhjzY', with z = 1 or 2; X 'represents the group -CH2-C (O) OH, -CH2-C (O) OZ', -CH2-CH2-C (O) OH, -CH2-CH2-C (O) OZ ', or a hydrogen atom; Y' represents the group -C (O) OH, -C (O) OZ ', -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3H or the group -CH 2 -CH (OH) -SO 3 -Z ';

Z 'represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

Ra 'represents a C10-C30 alkyl or C10-C30 alkenyl group of a Ra'-COOH acid, preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 group, and its iso form, an unsaturated C17 group.

Compounds of this type are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, capryloamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

It is also possible to use compounds of formula (B'2);

Wherein Y "is -C (O) OH, -C (O) OZ", -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3H or -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3-Z ";

Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; Z "represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

Ra "represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra" -C (O) OH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil;

n and η ', independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds of formula (B'2), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by Chimex under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 2 -C 8) alkylbetaines, such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and their mixtures.

More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) are chosen from cocoylamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine.

When present, the surfactant or surfactants preferably represent from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

The composition according to the invention comprises water.

Preferably, the water represents from 50 to 95% by weight, preferably from 60 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent to solubilize compounds that are not sufficiently soluble in water.

More particularly, the organic solvents are chosen from monoalcohols or diols, linear or branched, preferably saturated, comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2- methyl 2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol; glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol; and the alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, especially C1-C4, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture.

The usual solvents described above, if they are present, usually represent from 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention has a pH of less than or equal to 7.

Preferably, the pH of the composition is between 2 and 7, preferably between 2 and 6, more preferably between 2 and 5.

The pH of the composition according to the invention can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used in cosmetic compositions or else using conventional buffer systems.

Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, for example, of mineral acids such as, for example, hydrochloric acid, (ortho) phosphoric acid, boric acid, nitric acid, sulfuric acid or organic acids such as for example compounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid function such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, a sulphonic acid function, a phosphonic acid function or a phosphoric acid function.

Preferably, phosphoric acid is used as the acidifying agent.

The basifying agent (s) may be inorganic, organic or hybrid.

The inorganic alkaline agent (s) is (are) preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates, such as sodium or potassium carbonates or bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, or mixtures thereof.

The organic alkaline agent (s) is (are) preferably chosen from organic amines whose pKb at 25 ° C. is less than 12, and preferably less than 10, still more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is pKb corresponding to the highest basicity function. In addition, the organic amines do not comprise a fatty chain, alkyl or alkenyl, comprising more than ten carbon atoms.

The organic alkaline agent (s) are, for example, chosen from alkanolamines, ethoxylated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and compounds of formula (XVI) below:

wherein, W is a divalent C1 to C6 alkylene radical optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups or a C1 to C6 alkyl radical, and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as O, or NRU; Rx, Ry, Rz, Rt, Ru and the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl radical or C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, C1-C6 aminoalkyl.

Examples of amines of formula (XVI) include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additives. As an additive that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of anti-dandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, anti-hair loss and / or hair regrowth agents, vitamins and provitamines, including panthenol, sunscreens and inorganic or organic pigments. , sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives and pigments. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additives and their quantity so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the composition according to the invention.

These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention is generally in the form of a cream.

Thus, the composition according to the invention generally has, at ambient temperature, a viscosity at 25 ° C. of greater than 50 cps, preferably of between 200 and 100000 cps, more preferably between 500 and 50,000 cps, even more preferentially between 800 and 10,000 cps, and better still between 1000 and 8000 cps, the viscosity being preferably measured at a speed of rotation of 200 rpm with the aid of a rheometer such as rheomat RM 180 equipped with a mobile No. 3 or 4, the measurement being preferably performed after 30 seconds of rotation of the mobile (time after which there is a stabilization of the viscosity and the rotational speed of the mobile.

The composition according to the invention preferably has a viscosity at 25 ° C of between 0.2 and 100 Pa.s, preferably between 0.5 and 50 Pa.s., more preferably between 0.8 and 10 Pa.s. .

In a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity at 25 ° C. of between 1 and 8 Pa.s.

Preferably the viscosity is measured at a rotational speed of 200 rpm using a Rheomat® RM 180.

The present invention also relates to the use of the composition as defined above, for shaping and / or maintaining the hairstyle of keratinous fibers, preferably human keratin fibers such as the hair.

The subject of the present invention is also the use of the composition as defined above for the lightening of keratinous fibers, preferably human keratinous fibers such as the hair.

Finally, another object of the present invention is a process for shaping and lightening keratinous fibers, preferably human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising a step of applying to said fibers the composition as defined herein. -above.

In the process according to the invention, the composition may be applied to dry or moist keratinous fibers, and in particular to wet keratinous fibers.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is not rinsed after application to the keratinous fibers.

In a preferred manner, the process according to the invention is repeated several times. This makes it possible to obtain a gradual lightening of the keratinous fibers.

The following examples illustrate the present invention and should not be considered in any way as limiting the invention.

EXAMPLES I Preparation of the compositions

Compositions A to C were prepared according to Table 1 below by mixing the ingredients at the levels indicated in grams of active material.

Table 1

(1) Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate II Tests and Results

The viscosity measurements are carried out using a Rheomat RM180 at 25 ° C., at a rotation speed of 200 rpm, with a mobile 3 (or mobile 4 in case of very thick composition) (measured at 30 ° C.). s). The values are indicated in centipoises.

The average viscosities obtained at the laboratory at 10 ° C. and at room temperature averaged 55 UD M3 with Rheomat® RM 180 (mini 45 UD M3 = 2110cps). The formula then evolves to 2M45 to reach 30 UD M4 = 7370cps.

The stability results of compositions A to C are summarized in Table 2 below.

Table 2

(1) Increase in the volume of the composition and degradation of hydrogen peroxide (2) Instability of the formula: presence of release

The composition (A) comprising laponite exhibits an increase in the volume of the composition (due to the degradation of hydrogen peroxide) already after 10 days of storage at 45 ° C., unlike the composition (B) according to the invention including montmorillonite which remains stable in terms of appearance, viscosity, pH and H 2 O 2 titer after 2 months of storage at 45 ° C.

After a storage of 1 month at 4 ° C, the composition (A) has a particular increase in pH and viscosity, unlike the composition (B) where the variations are lower.

Montmorillonite thus contributes to improving the stability of the hydrogen peroxide but also to stabilizing the texture of the composition.

The composition (C) which comprises no clay shows in particular a sharp increase in viscosity after 1 month of storage at 4 ° C and a drop in pH. After 2 months of storage at room temperature, there is a drop in viscosity and pH and the appearance of a salting out after 2 months of storage at 45 ° C.

Claims (16)

A cosmetic composition comprising (i) one or more chemical oxidizing agents, (ii) one or more fixing polymers, (iii) montmorillonite, and (iv) water, and having a pH of less than or equal to 7. 2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the chemical oxidizing agent (s) is (are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, and mixtures of these. compounds, and more preferably the chemical oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the chemical oxidizing agent or agents represent from 0.05 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight. by weight, and more preferably from 1.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fixing polymer or polymers are chosen from anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic fixing polymers, preferably from nonionic fixing polymers. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fixing polymer (s) are nonionic fixing polymers chosen from: polyalkyloxazolines, homopolymers of vinyl acetate, copolymers of vinyl acetate homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic esters, copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer, homopolymers of styrene, copolymers of styrene, polyamides, homopolymers of vinyllactam, copolymers of vinyllactam, polyvinyl alcohol, and mixtures of these polymers, preferably chosen from homo or copolymers of vinyllactam, preferably the nonionic fixing polymer or polymers, are chosen from vinyllactam copolymers, more preferably chosen from among the poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyllactam) copolymers, the poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate) copolymers, the terpolymers poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate / vinyl propionate) and mixtures of these polymers, and even more preferably from poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate) copolymers. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fixing polymer or polymers represent a total content of 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular of 0.5 to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the montmorillonite represents from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 8% by weight. by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that its pH is between 2 and 7, preferably between 2 and 6, more preferably between 2 and 5. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a viscosity at 25 ° C greater than 50 cps, preferably between 200 and 100000 cps, more preferably between 500 and 50,000 cps, more preferably between 800 to 10,000 cps, and better between 1000 to 8000 cps. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more fatty substances, preferably at least one solid fatty substance, preferably chosen from waxes and / or solid fatty alcohols, and their mixtures. 11. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the fatty substance or fats are chosen from hydrocarbon fats, more preferably solid hydrocarbon fats, in particular chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or solid fatty alcohols, waxes, and mixtures thereof, and better selected from waxes and / or solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more surfactants, preferably nonionic surfactants. 13. Use of the composition according to any one of the preceding claims, for shaping and / or maintaining the hairstyle of keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers such as the hair. 14. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 for the lightening of keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers such as hair. 15. A process for shaping and lightening keratinous fibers, preferably human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising a step of applying to said fibers the composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 12. 16. The method of claim 15, characterized in that it is repeated several times.