FR2953133B1 - SYSTEM FOR CONDITIONING AND DISPENSING A COSMETIC PRODUCT AND PROCESS FOR PREPARING THE PRODUCT - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of human keratin materials, from a starting composition comprising an active agent, the activity of which can be modified by exposure to a stimulus, the process comprising the steps of: - choosing a variation of the product from at least two product combinations corresponding to different degrees of exposure to the stimulus or determining a declination of the product other than based on information from a sensor of a physical parameter of the environment of the product. user, a clock signal or data from an external transmitter, - if necessary to expose the stimulus to the starting composition to obtain the declination thus selected or determined, - to apply the composition as such on keratin materials , after possible exposure to the stimulus.

Description

The present invention relates to systems and methods for applying a product to human keratin materials, including skin, lips and other mucous membranes, and integuments, for example hair or eyelashes.

It may be a fluid product, for example in the form of liquid, cream, gel or loose powder, makeup or care, cosmetic or dermatological.

Background

Cosmetic products, also called cosmetic compositions, are often declined in many variants and this to adapt to different situations.

Thus, solar protection products are produced in several strengths, to adapt to different sunlight conditions. This is also the case of skincare products, the power of which can be provided for different levels of sensitization of the hair or different states of the skin.

There are also important ranges of colored products, for example for hair coloring or makeup, to adapt to the desires of users.

In addition, different users will not have, with the same product, the same result according to their original color of hair or skin.

In the case of coloring, we use to help consumers in their choice of products, images reproducing and illustrating the desired end effect for a given product, according to several cases of initial colors. This solution has important limitations because if it gives the expected result for each product, it does not solve the question of identifying the product to be used for a given desired result.

Experts such as hairdressers and beauticians, often have the necessary experience to deduce the product to use from a given initial color. The solution of consulting an expert is not always appropriate. It may be for coloring, but less for other services, such as hygiene and cleaning products, for example, because the expert should be aware of parameters such as the water hardness of the water. home for example, which may depend on the effectiveness of these products. Even in the case of coloring, the solution of consulting an expert every time one wants to change color and / or whenever the original color has changed is not practical and moreover turns out expensive.

In addition, manufacturers are confronted with the management of the manufacturing of products divided into several variations, whereas the distributors are confronted with the storage of these products, because some declensions are more bought than others.

Although producers and distributors try to rely on rules that can help them to optimize their production or orders, it is often difficult to determine in advance the declensions that will be the most purchased, as well as for recent products in the market than the products sold for years. Indeed, the commercial positioning of a new product makes purchasing decisions between the different variations more difficult to predict and the purchasing practices of cosmetic products remain influenced by the modes or the climate, the evolution of which is difficult to predict. For example, in the case of solar products, productions are made before the summer. If the sunshine is not as strong as usual, the products of stronger protection may be abandoned. It is also the case of the hydration of the skin or the conditioning of the hair, which depend on the level of sensitization of each one, the depilatories, the result of which will depend on parameters of hardness and abundance of the hairs, peculiar to each one, or cleaning products whose effectiveness may depend on the hardness of the water, that is to say parameters specific to the home of each.

In any case, the management of production and storage remains difficult. Some products are manufactured or stored while they can not find buyers immediately, which causes capital costs. In addition, sometimes limited shelf life of products compound the problem, since they can make products unmarketable. Other products are missing. This results in stock-outs and the need to restart expensive additional manufacturing.

Finally, the user is often faced with a problem of choice when he is ready to purchase a product. He hesitates to choose one force over another, because he does not necessarily see clearly the result he wants to get.

Remote sales, made possible through catalogs, or via the Internet, make it difficult to see the end result of the products. The user has difficulty figuring out the proposed result, since the often small size of the images, as well as the color rendition of the photos, can be approximate.

It can certainly acquire several products with different characteristics but this solution is not practical, if only in view of the size and cost that this solution imposes.

There are also instances where product manufacturers offer only one force. This is often the case with shampoos, makeup removers, antiperspirants, shaving foams ...

However, it could be interesting to achieve several product strengths because the needs are not identical.

The reason why manufacturers are hesitant to. to decline several strengths in the case of these products is that there are no practical means on which the future user can rely to make his choice. For example, in the case of shampoos, while it is known that some need stronger washing forces than others, there is no practical way to tell the user how to make a choice. Indeed, the user should rely on notions such as the amount of relubrication or the hardness of his domestic water, which can be difficult to grasp.

There are also situations where. the same product must be supplied to several persons and / or it is not possible to choose one force in advance rather than another. This is typically the case of hotel rooms and other collective places. It is then that we often choose the most common product possible, with the idea that it will please the greatest number. In fact, the result of satisfaction is rather weak, illustrating once again that the aspirations are diverse.

There is also the case of families. Indeed, it is common that a family person is responsible for making purchases for the whole family. Thus, this delegate takes the risk of being mistaken by acquiring one product force over another. It is often back home that we realize that the product was poorly chosen. SUMMARY Accordingly, there is a need for a technical solution to minimize the problems involved in the manufacture and storage of cosmetic or dermatological products made in several forms. The object of the invention is to respond to this need and, according to one of its aspects, aims at a cosmetic treatment process, starting from a starting composition comprising an active whose activity is modifiable by exposure to a stimulus. , the method comprising the steps of: choosing a variation of the product from at least two variations of the product corresponding to different degrees of exposure to the stimulus or determining a declination of the product, in particular other than on the basis of information coming from a sensor of a physical parameter of the user's environment, of a clock signal or of data coming from an external transmitter, to expose, if necessary, to the stimulus the starting composition for obtaining the declination as well as chosen or determined, apply, in particular as such, the composition, after possible exposure to the stimulus.

The declination can be chosen by the user. Alternatively, the declination can be determined from at least one measure of a user's physical parameter or otherwise, as described below. This determination can be done automatically. One of the variations can correspond to the starting composition without any exposure to the stimulus. In a variant, the starting composition is always exposed to the stimulus to obtain all the possible variations that can be used.

The amount of composition exposed to the stimulus at one time may be greater than 1 g. The user can adjust an energy source producing the stimulus, based on at least one information contained in a packaging of the composition or transmitted to the user by a network, including the Internet. The setting information is for example read on an abacus or a table.

The method may include automatically determining the setting of an energy source producing the stimulus. The automatic determination can be carried out for example on the basis at least of the acquisition of information relating to the use of the product and / or a result to be achieved with the product. The invention further relates, in another of its aspects, an assembly comprising: - the starting composition, - means allowing the user to know the setting to be made according to the desired declination, for example the table or abacus above, these means being able to be packaged with the starting composition.

The table or. The abacus can be packaged with the starting composition in the same package, under 1a. form of an impression for example. The abacus or the table may be integrated into a packaging of the product or contained with the product in the same package, for example in the form of a user manual. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a system for applying a cosmetic or dermatological product, comprising: a reservoir containing a starting composition, in particular at least 1 g, better still at least 10 g or 20 g of such a composition, comprising an active agent, the activity of the starting composition being modifiable by exposure to a stimulus, at least two different degrees of activation of the starting composition leading respectively to two variations of the product. , these variations being for example applicable as such on keratin materials, a first means, for example comprising a user interface, allowing the user to enter at least one information related to the use of the product, and a second means for generate, especially automatically, based at least on the information entered by the user at least one adjustment data of a source of en ergie allowing to modify, by exposure to the stimulus of a quantity of product, for example at least 1 g of product, the activity of the latter, in order to obtain a declination corresponding to the information entered by the user.

The tank may be provided with a removable closure means, in particular a hinged, screwed or snapped capsule, a valve, in particular molded or with a resilient return member distinct from the closure member, of a distribution system , operable by the user, and / or a dosing system, including pump. The reservoir may have flexible or deformable walls. The distribution of the product can be done with or without air intake. The largest transverse dimension of the reservoir, when it is held with its vertical axis, is for example greater than 1 cm.

By "applicable as is" it should be understood that the product variations do not require an additional operation modifying their formulation to be used, for example, there is no extraction or dilution by percolation. product may be related to the use of a deactivated reactivatable active, as defined below The variable activity of the composition according to the variations may result in a variable concentration in the product of at least one active agent in a form active against human keratin materials.

The energy source may be external to the system or alternatively may be part of it.

The system may optionally comprise a means of automatic or semi-automatic control of the energy source depending on the declination to be achieved.

Thanks to the invention, the power of the product can be adjusted before application.

The adjustment can be made by the user, for example according to a target result, which is particularly interesting for coloring products, stain or solar, among others. The invention also allows consumers to be more satisfied with their purchases remotely, for example over the Internet, and provides a more flexible management of manufacturing and storage, including reducing the number of declensions manufactured in the factory. The invention may also allow users to selectively target on certain parts of the body the effectiveness of the product, for example for the production of locks or the treatment of moles. Thus, in an exemplary implementation of the invention, it relates to a method in which the user processes a first zone and then modifies the activity of the product by exposing the starting composition to the stimulus to treat a second, different zone. from the first.

In a non-exhaustive manner, the invention applies to products for photoprotection, protection against drying out of the skin, protection against frost, coloring products, hair bleaching, makeup products, such as lipsticks, foundations, varnishes, glosses, skin dyes, self-tanners, skin lighteners, peelers, hair care products, hair styling products, hair care products permanent form of the hair, such as perming, straightening, straightening, washing of the skin or hair, depilatory, chemical or pulling products, mouth and teeth treatment products, care of the. oily or dry skin, moisturizers, antiperspirants, bactericidal products. The different variations may correspond to at least two properties of the product other than the color.

Another advantage of the invention is to make possible the production of products that can offer additional options. For example, the invention makes it possible to produce a hair washing product by granting it an additional coloring function. In this example, the coloring function is adjustable, depending on the degree of exposure to the stimulus.

The stimulus may comprise a light stimulus, thermal, mechanical, including vibration, and / or radiofrequency.

The system can be configured to expose the stimulus to a low dose of product before dispensing or being dispensed, for example between 0.3 and 10 g of product. This can make it possible to modify the variation of the product from one application to another.

The system may include an activation chamber, where only 1a. quantity of product to be dispensed can be exposed to the stimulus, this quantity being separated from the reservoir containing the rest of the product. The volume of this activation chamber is for example between 0.25 cm -1 and 10 cm 3.

Alternatively, all the product initially proposed to the user is exposed to the stimulus at once, to achieve the desired declination, and the product retains this declination until it is exhausted. The product may be exposed to the stimulus while it is in the same packaging that was used to present it for sale to the consumer. Such packaging may comprise a printed decoration and / or present on an adhesive label. This packaging may comprise a closure member such as a cap or an articulated lid or flap flap opening under the pressure of the product. The packaging may further comprise a dispensing means such as a pump. The packaging may be provided, where appropriate, with a safety preventing excessive overpressure in the tank during exposure to the stimulus.

The starting composition can be exposed to the stimulus with its original packaging. The duration of exposure to the stimulus may be greater than 0.5 s.

The first aforementioned means may include a user interface, allowing the user to enter data. The first means may comprise a sensor capable of measuring a characteristic of the user, for example a phototype, or the environment of the user, for example the hardness of the water.

In the case of an automated system configuration, the system can be equipped with the interface and the power source. The user may have to insert in the energy source the starting composition, to fill in his wish, to respond to requests for information from the system. The other operations do not require intervention of the user, it is finally offered the product ready to be used.

In the case of a little automated configuration, the starting composition is associated with an abacus or a table on which the user reads the adjustment information, setting the desired end result and possibly at least one other parameter. The user then uses a source of energy, for example of power greater than or equal to 5 W, 10 W, 25 W, 40 W, 60 W, 75 W, 100 W or 500 W, for example a lamp or oven to Microwave for, following the setting information, prepare the product.

The system may comprise a packaging and dispensing device, for example comprising the aforementioned tank. This device is for example portable and fits in the hand. At least one of the energy source, the interface and the control means can be integrated in this device.

The system may also comprise a device for packaging and distribution, portable and handheld, and a base for receiving this device in the absence of use, this base comprising for example at least one of the source of energy, interface and control means. The tank may belong to the packaging and dispensing device. The base can possibly recharge the tank. It may be advantageous for the base to contain the energy source in order to lighten the packaging and dispensing device when it is handled by the user. In this case, product may possibly flow between the base and the conditioning device. For example, a quantity of starting composition is exposed to the stimulus in the base and then transferred to the portable conditioning device, and dispensed from that device for use by the user.

Alternatively, the starting composition passes from the portable device into the base, is exposed to the stimulus, and then returns to the portable device. The circulation can take place by means of a pump, manual or electric. All or part of the starting composition can thus flow through the base. The interface may include a signaling means for transmitting information to the user, in particular on the setting to be made. Thus, when the energy source is external to the system, the user can have at least one adjustment information transmitted by the signaling means and make himself the adjustment of the energy source, this setting comprising by for example, the choice of a heating intensity and / or a heating time, or even the choice of the energy source among several.

In the presence of the control means, the system can be adjusted automatically, without requiring the intervention of the user. The source is then controlled so as to expose the product to the stimulus suitable for obtaining the desired declination. The setting can be semi-automatic, that is, the user retains the ability to change a setting proposed by the system and / or is prompted to confirm it before the power source is activated.

The system can be realized, in exemplary embodiments of the invention, so as to offer the. ability to select a mode of automatic or manual operation of the system. In the manual operation mode, the user can, by informing the interface, determine itself the degree of activity of the composition he is looking for. In the automatic operation mode, the setting can be done on the basis of user entered data and / or measurements, and the degree of activity to be achieved is determined by application of predefined rules by the system, depending on those data. In the automatic operating mode, setting information can be output or the system can control the power source itself.

The system may be configured to transmit at least one information informing the user on at least one property of the declination obtained after exposure to the stimulus. For example, the system has an indicator that is exposed to the stimulus in. same time as the product and that informs the user on the resulting declination. It may be for example a color indicator incorporated in the composition or in the packaging device and whose color changes according to the declination obtained.

The reservoir can be made of any suitable material, for example a thermoplastic material, glass, a ceramic. The tank can be at constant or variable volume. The product can be taken from the tank by gravity, pumping, reducing the internal volume of the tank or using an applicator. The energy source can be separated from the reservoir during application of the product. The power source may be powered by the mains or by batteries or accumulators.

Whatever the way a declination is obtained, the user can perform an action to signal the declination of the product obtained. For example, the user may write an inscription on the packaging of the product or affix a label indicating the strength of the product. The packaging can be initially proposed with several labels within the same packaging and the user affixes that which corresponds to the declination obtained after exposure to the stimulus. The subject of the invention is also a process for preparing a cosmetic product, starting from a starting composition, comprising an active agent, the activity of the starting composition being modifiable by exposure to a stimulus, at least two degrees different activation of the active corresponding to two respective product combinations, which may be applicable as such to keratin materials, the method comprising the steps of: acquiring at least one information relating to the use of the product, for example the desired declination and / or a result to be achieved with the product, generating, in particular automatically, according to at least this information at least one adjustment information of an energy source for exposing the product to the stimulus for obtain the corresponding declination sought. The starting composition may be exposed to the stimulus according to this setting of the energy source. The amount of composition exposed at one time to the stimulus may be greater than 1 g.

After exposure to the stimulus, the product can be directly applied to keratin materials. The amount of product exposed to the stimulus may correspond to that contained in the original packaging, as explained above. The setting information can be issued in a form directly apprehensible to the user.

This method can be implemented using the above system. The adjustment information may be generated by a calculation means, which may include any electronic means, or even computer, and which may be the second aforementioned means. The acquisition of information relating to the use of the product can be done through an interface that can have any of the characteristics defined above. The setting information can be generated in exemplary embodiments of the invention, independently of a clock information relating to the absolute time or elapsed since the last use, independently of a signal coming from a sensor of the invention. environment, for example UV, and / or independently of data received from a remote data transmitter.

In an exemplary implementation of the invention, the user informs the system on the final result he wants. The system derives the level of adjustment and generates the control information of the energy source. It can communicate it either to the user so that he himself regulates the source of energy according to this information, or to one. control means that controls the power source to activate the product at the right level. In the case where the user himself makes the adjustment of the energy source, the user can activate the product at a level corresponding to the proposed setting.

The system can be configured to allow selection among different potential results offered by the system. For example, the system proposes with the interface several results, for example illustrated by diagrams, drawings, images and / or simulations, and the user can choose one of these results.

The system can still be configured to translate a wish expressed by the user. For example, the user describes the desired result in terms of color, describing either the color he wants or the color he wants from his original color. The interface may then include a screen assisting this communication.

The system can also refer to stored results. The system can be provided with an internal or external memory or provided via a link to a network, for example the Internet. Thus, the user can indicate that he desires the same result as before. The system can still be configured to memorize the desired end result of several people and prompt the user to indicate the target person for the same setting. In a particular case, it is not the user who informs the system, but another person, for example a member of 1a. family, an expert, for example a hairdresser ...

In one. example of implementation, the system invites the user to respond to a questionnaire, which can be illustrated by diagrams, photographs or images. For example, the system prompts to inform the system about the quality of the hair. Thus, he can ask for the color (by presenting typical colors for example), the. shape (by presenting typical forms for example), the length (by presenting lengths for example). The interface can also inform the system on the porosity of the hair by asking questions about the behavior of the hair, for example ask if the hair dry quickly, if the coloring takes a long time and / or if the tips are faded ...

In the case of the skin, the system may ask for its color and / or heterogeneity. The interface may also allow, in examples of implementation, to enter data, relating to the sensitive and / or irritated nature of the skin, the possibility of a past experience, the possibility of a past problem , the possibility of an allergy problem in the case of a cosmetic application, or another situation such as food.

The data entered in the interface may still relate to the behavior or environment of the user, the system asking for example the frequency of washing and / or the place where he lives ...

The system can be configured to illustrate all potentially accessible end results in order to open the user to possibilities he may not have in mind.

The generation of adjustment data as well as the management of the interface may be provided by on-board electronics, such as an on-board computer, or by remote means. At least part of the data processing can be provided by a server, for example in a wired connection, or through a server connected via the Internet.

The invention relates to various assemblies comprising a system as defined above, without the energy source. The invention also relates to assemblies comprising the energy source, which may or may not be integrated in a packaging and dispensing device, as indicated above. The invention also relates to a system without the product reservoir, the latter being for example in the form of removable refill. The system can also be proposed to the user having the tank but without the product, the latter being for example introduced by the user into the tank. This can make it possible to use the system in combination with several different products. This may also allow, for example, to reuse the interface, the control means as well as the. source of energy, with different products.

Conditioning device Another subject of the invention, according to another of its aspects, is a device for packaging a product to be applied to human keratin materials, this packaging device containing a starting composition containing at least one active ingredient, the starting composition having an activity sensitive to an energy stimulus, so that at least two variations of the product can be obtained depending on the degree of exposure of the starting composition to the stimulus. The device and / or the starting composition may comprise a color indicator sensitive to the stimulus, making it possible to inform the user on the declination obtained after exposure to the stimulus.

For example, a colored compound sensitive to free active concentration is present in the product so as to color the product differently depending on its declination. Thus, the user can know the strength of the product before use and it reduces the risk that the resulting declination does not match the result sought by the user. The colored compound serving as indicator may be different from a compound intended to achieve a permanent coloration of the keratin materials. For example, it is a colored compound weakly covering and which can easily remove washing.

Interface The interface can make it possible to inform the system about what the user wants and / or to allow the user to inform the system about at least one characteristic of the user or of his environment. The interface may comprise a selector, for example a cursor, a wheel, a davit, keys or sensitive, a touch screen, a sliding switch, rotation, tilt or repeated pressure, and more generally any means allowing the user to select a variation of the product among at least two possible variations. The selector can operate in conjunction with a display or screen indicating the selection made. The interface may belong to a packaging or dispensing device, comprising the reservoir containing the product. Alternatively, the interface belongs to a. terminal such as a personal computer, a personal digital assistant or a mobile phone, separate from the packaging and distribution device. The interface can still belong to a base to which can be temporarily coupled the packaging and distribution device. The base may include the energy source, possibly. The energy source can still be realized in the form of a device comprising the interface.

The terminal comprising the interface may be used, if necessary, to generate the adjustment information. The interface can be made not only to allow the input of information but also to broadcast the setting information. The interface may also include a signaling means for broadcasting information to the user, for example displaying information relating to the declination selected by the user or decided by the system, for example in the form of one or more alphanumeric characters, a bargraph, a pictogram and / or disseminate the information by voice synthesis or ignition of one or more lights. The display can be done for example on the packaging device and distribution, on the base or the terminal above. The interface may include any type of screen or display, for example LCD, plasma, LED, OLED ... The interface may be configured to allow continuous or incremental adjustment of at least one characteristic of the product.

The system may be configured to broadcast, for example visually, audibly and / or tactile, for example by display, at least one information informing the user on at least one property of the declination selected or obtained.

Other data

The system can be configured to receive, in addition to data entered by the user through the user interface, other data from, for example, a clock, an external data transmitter, for example meteorological data and / or from at least one sensor sensitive to the environment of the system, for example a sensor of UV radiation, humidity, atmospheric pressure, wind, air pollution, precipitation, hardness or pH of the water.

The system can also be configured to receive data from a sensor able to measure the user, for example on his skin, for example a pH, color sensor, skin microrelief, sebum or hydration.

These other data may be involved in the calculation of the stimulus to be exerted on the starting composition in order to meet the. user request.

Means of calculation The invention can implement a calculation means capable of determining a level of adjustment of the energy source necessary to obtain a desired final result and translate the level of adjustment into control information of the energy source. The calculation means can be separated from the interface or present within the same device with the interface.

The calculating means may comprise any processor making it possible to calculate from the available information a level of adjustment of the energy source. The term "processor" must be understood to mean any electronic or even computer means capable of performing calculations and / or comparisons, for example any microprocessor, microcontroller, microcomputer or other components and programmable devices.

Means of command

The system can control the energetic activation. For example, the user is provided with a custom system including the interface and the power source. This system can be in two parts or integrated.

The system may comprise a control means capable of transmitting to the energy source data that can be interpreted by it, or even to directly control the energy source. It may be for example a specialized electronic circuit comprising components capable of driving a radiofrequency transmitter or a light source or a standard computer interface, for example home automation, capable of communicating with the energy source using a predefined protocol.

The system can be configured to have the energy delivered back and use it for better energy control.

Diagnostic

The starting composition may be associated with a means of establishing a diagnosis to facilitate data entry. This is for example a kit proposed to the user with the composition and / or with the system, for example initially contained in the same package.

A test can be performed, for example with such a diagnostic kit. This test can be a measure of color (skin, hair), a measure of the heterogeneity of the color (of the skin, of the hair), a measurement of the state of sensitization (of the skin, of the hair ), a measure of the porosity, the level of hydration, the. sweating, hairiness, a measurement of hardness of the water ... This test can make it possible to inform the system, in particular with a view to its parameterization.

Measuring device

The system may comprise a device for electronically measuring a characteristic of the user or his environment, color, humidity, microrelief, pH and / or sebum content, for example a device that communicates directly with the user. its results by means of the above calculation. The setting information can take into account the result of this measurement. Generation of adjustment data

The system can be arranged to, based on the data entered and / or measured, determine an asset level necessary to obtain the desired result. The data entered are for example those entered by the user through the interface, as explained above.

The system expresses, for example, the deactivated asset level to be released. If the product naturally contains free assets, the setting level A, equal to: Active- A]

Aactive is the amount of assets that one seeks to obtain.

Preferably, this calculation does not require any intervention of the user.

The system can then, from the setting level, deduce the energy that must be produced to obtain this release and can be based on the deactivated amount of asset, the reactivated asset amount referred to Ar / .giagc and the energy required to reactivate a unit (1% for example) of active deactivated.

For example, if you want to release a deactivated asset amount Argbige, and the energy to release 1% deactivated asset is Eumté, then the energy E to produce is: E-E uiiîle X dk setting

However, it is understood that the calculation can be based on a more complex function, especially when Anig] age, is quite important, and approaches the total deactivated deactivated active amount contained in the product. In this case, the unit is not a constant but a function, in particular of A-bonding, to involve the quantity of the present activator. The energy to be produced can also be deduced from the use of a conversion table, for example prerecorded or consulted by the system through a connection with a remote server through a network.

The stimulation energy setting of the product can take into account various parameters. The parameters are typically, for a coloring product, the original coloration of the hair, the homogeneity of the color, or the ability of the hair to color. It is also possible to integrate other parameters such as ambient data, for example the outside temperature, secondary data, for example the fineness of the hair, history data, for example the products already used.

The determination of the setting can also involve at least one criterion desired by the user. Thus, the user can specify the maximum time that will last the treatment. These data will allow the system to calculate the release of the asset or assets accordingly, for example at least one dye, it being understood that the setting will not be the same depending on whether the treatment will last, according to the wishes of the user, 10 or 30 minutes, for example.

Similarly, the user can inform whether or not he has such an instrument. For example, it may be specified that it has such means of heating or not, it being understood that the setting may be different depending on whether or not one or other source of energy is being used.

The system can be arranged to determine whether the desired result by the user is accessible. This may depend on the desired result, settings, and product that the user has.

The system can have information on the nature of the product that one wants to direct the setting. In a variant of the invention, the system automatically inquires about the nature of the product that we want it directs adjustment.

In another variant, the system can direct the adjustment of several types of products. The system can be configured to acquire the information it needs to make these settings, fl can be connected to at least one remote database, for example via the internet.

The system can be provided with a means to warn the user that his choice is or is not accessible and / or that his choice would be better ensured by or requires another starting composition. Optionally, the system is configured to achieve, find or control said starting composition.

At least part of the system may be accessible before the acquisition of the product by the future purchaser, for example at the place of purchase, or through a website. Thus, the user can use the system to get a first idea of the suitability of the product in relation to the desired result. The system will warn the future buyer that the product may or may not produce the desired result. The system can eventually direct the future buyer to another product, if needed.

If the system has a power source, it is preferably arranged to automatically translate the calculated adjustment energy into adjustment information. If the system uses a power source that is not specific to itself, it may require information on the energy source that will be used. The system can be configured to inquire about the. or the energy sources available to the user to better derive the adjustment information.

The system can be arranged to have in its internal memory information on energy sources found on the market. It can be automatically contacted, for example automatically, with suppliers of energy sources, for example to better know the powers and / or safety rules to be respected.

The system may have means for translating tuning information calculated for one energy source to another type of power source. The system may include a table of equivalences between energy sources or access to such a table.

The system can express the energy information in different ways, such as duration and intensity. For a microwave oven, this amounts to the heating time and the setting level. It can also dispense information in temperature, for example.

The system can also inform the user of the mode of application, the maximum recommended duration of use, the minimum rest period before use.

When the system does not control the energetic activation, the user may have a source recognized by the system. In this case, the system provides adjustment energy information and the user uses this information to adjust the power source. Optionally, the user can use a device for measuring the energy dispensed. This measuring device informs the user and / or the system of the energy dispensed, or the completion of the adjustment. For example, this measuring device comprises a colored indicator, for example present on the packaging of the product or within the product.

The system may not control the energetic activation and the user may have a power source that is not recognized by the system. In this case, the system can be configured to ensure the adequacy of the energy source with obtaining the desired declination. The system may comprise a device for measuring the energy dispensed, and use it for this purpose.

The system can be provided with a means of feedback, either on the end result, or on the actual asset release level, to adjust itself and refine its calculations for subsequent uses. In particular, if the actual result is different from the desired result, the system can determine the setting for approaching the desired result with a second application.

The system can optionally be arranged to warn the user of the need to reapply the product or to review the activation, if it detects for example that the release of the deactivated asset does not correspond to the set point.

Energy source

As mentioned above, the invention uses a supply of energy by a source of energy, also called energy dispenser, the energy being for example a heat, a radiation of light, visible or not, by example of UV or IR, radiofrequency, for example of microwaves, or ultrasound. The energy supply can be carried out without percolation of a gas or hot liquid through the starting composition.

The energy power consumed by the source of energy producing the stimulus, particularly in the case of a thermal or light stimulus, may be greater than 5 W, 10 W, 25 W, 40 W, 60 W, 75 W, 100 W , 500 W, 750 W or 1000 W. The power can be greater than 3000 W.

The energy delivery conditions can be predetermined, including the power and the duration of delivery. This information can be stored in a memory associated with the energy source, for example in the form of a conversion table between energy conditions and results.

The energy source may be system specific or not.

This may be for example a power source currently available in a dwelling, such as a microwave oven, a hot plate or an incandescent lamp. It may still be a specific energy source.

The system can either control the power source or communicate to the user the conditions of use of the source. Preferably, when the source is specific, the system controls the source, without user intervention. The setting information is for example expressed in the language of use of the source. The setting information may mention several potentially usable sources and for each of them the setting to be made. For example, the usage time (in seconds, minutes), energy (in joules). It can be expressed in many ways. For example :

• 10 seconds of heating for a 900W microwave oven • 7 seconds of heating for a 1300W microwave oven ... The user will then choose the right heating time according to the device at his disposal .

The system may be provided with a means for transcribing the adjustment energy into adjustment energy information, given to the user for setting the product, when the information is not used by the user. system for controlling the realization of a setting automatically. The setting information can be transmitted to the user via the aforementioned interface. For example, the adjustment energy information is a couple of information: information on a device, for example a 1000W lamp, a microwave of 1000W, information on the use of this device, for example a exposure time at a given distance, a given heating time.

In exemplary embodiments of the invention, the same energy source is used to exert a stimulus on different starting compositions.

The energy source can then be provided with a recognition device for recognizing the composition that will receive the stimulus. Thus, depending on the composition that it will treat, the energy source can be based on a conversion table or a calculation function.

The recognition device can read information on a packaging device associated with the composition to be subjected to the stimulus, for example by means of an electronic device, comprising for example a mechanical or electrical sensor, a bar code reader, an electrical contactor or an RFID chip reader. An identifier can provide information on the declination of the product that will be subject to the stimulus. The reactivation energy can be linear depending on the amount of asset to be reactivated, and this at least on a part. The calculation can also be based on a more complex function, especially when the quantity to be reactivated is quite important, and approaches for example the total deactivated deactivated active amount contained in the product.

As mentioned above, the energy source may possibly have the energy supply back and use it for better energy control.

The energy source may not be in contact with the starting composition, which may remain in its original packaging upon exposure to the stimulus.

Active The active ingredient may be contained inactive or weakly active in the reservoir and exposure to the stimulus may increase its activity. Alternatively, the active may be contained in the active state in the reservoir and exposure to the stimulus may decrease its activity. The active agent may comprise in the starting composition a grafted photolabile function rendering it inactive. The starting composition may comprise an encapsulated ingredient, the stimulus breaking the encapsulation to release the active ingredient.

Active deactivated and reactivable

The starting composition may comprise a deactivated and reactivatable active. The term "deactivated active and reactivable" means two possibilities: - It can be firstly a non-active or very little active compound, capable of being transformed chemically under the effect of an energy, to give an active compound . The compound undergoes, for example, a break in a bond which releases the asset. Thus, the compound may be a molecule with little or no color, giving, under the effect of an energy, in particular light, a colored compound.

The reactive compound may for example be a molecule without reducing activity, giving, under the effect of an energy, especially light, a reducing compound. The latter can then react to produce a coloration, for example with a coloring oxidant.

It is also possible that the breaking of the bond releases an intermediate compound capable of becoming active, either naturally or through a reaction with a compound third. Thus, the reactive compound may be a compound with little or no color, giving under the effect of an energy, especially light, a colorless compound which will, under the action of oxygen for example, turn into a colored compound. - It may be secondly a non-active or very little active compound, capable of transforming under the effect of an energy, to give an active compound. The compound may for example comprise a material that degrades under the action of the incident energy, for example light or thermal, to release the asset.

Thus, the compound may comprise a fusible shell containing an active agent, for example a coloring agent, for example a dye. The compound is not active until the shell has melted.

In exemplary embodiments of the invention, without the application of energy, the deactivated deactivatable active does not exhibit any significant activity or has a weak activity, for example less than or equal to 20% of the nominal activity. .

It is possible, in certain exemplary embodiments of the invention, for the reactivation transformation of the active to continue once. power source off.

The method according to the invention may comprise one or more steps aimed at limiting the reactivation of the deactivated reactivatable asset, for example by means of the intervention of a cooling system.

Before exposure to the stimulus, the active agent can be deactivated and inactive, either because it is in conditions such that it is inaccessible to the treated surface, for example the skin or the hair, or because it is endowed with a function that prevents it from being active

In the first case, the asset may include a means that prevents it from being able to come into contact with the treated surface, or more specifically, come into contact with the areas of the skin or the hair necessary for its action. This means can be an encapsulation or a function.

In the second case, the active agent may come into contact with keratin materials, in particular the skin or the hair, but its action is inhibited by the function. The asset may also have a function that prevents it from coming into contact with the skin or hair in addition to a function that prevents it from being active.

To prevent the asset from being available by coating it or encapsulating it, it is possible to use coating or encapsulation systems made of temperature fusible material or encapsulation or encapsulation systems made of degradable material. by the effect of light radiation, in particular by applying the technology described in the article Photocleavable Microcapsules Built from Photoreactive Nanospheres Xiaofeng Yuan, Karl Fischer, and Wolfgang Schältl pp 9374-9380.

In particular, the encapsulating material may comprise nanoparticles specific to. undergo inter particle photochemical crosslinking. It is for example nanoparticles of chlorobenzyl-functionalized poly- (organosiloxane) of 20 nm in size and polydispersity less than 15% as described in the article Photocleavable Microcapsules Built from Photoreactive Nanospheres supra.

Encapsulation systems can be used in friable material and can be fractured by mechanical energy such as acoustic, ultrasound for example.

The application US 2009/0180967 describes particles that can be dispersed in an aqueous solution and encapsulating a composition capable of being released by being exposed to ultrasound. The teaching of this application can be applied to the encapsulation of the asset.

It is also possible to use a compound which is introduced in an insoluble form and which, under the action of an energy, for example thermal, melts and / or solubilises in the composition, can act as a stimulus sensitive compound. treated surface. Particularly preferred are the fusible assets in the 40 ° C-150 ° C zone, and initially presented as particles. The fusion brought by the temperature has the effect of melting the particles, which can then be incorporated into the rest of the composition. Thus, the starting composition can comprise a compound which, under the action of a thermal stimulus, can pass more or less in solution. In an exemplary implementation of the invention, the starting composition comprises a solid compound not completely dissolved in the product, because introduced for example in particulate form in the cold composition. To achieve several variations of the product, it is heated more or less, which allows more or less solubilize said compound. Once in solution, the compound can remain there.

It is also possible to use other systems to prevent the asset from being available for keratin materials, especially for the skin or hair. For example, a composition containing the active agent and a solvent rendering the active ingredient insoluble in the composition are used. If the solvent is volatile, it is possible by a supply of heat to evaporate the solvent and make the asset soluble. In this case, depending on the heat input, we obtain several variations of the product.

The active agent may also be provided with a function which prevents it from diffusing into keratin materials, in particular the skin or the hair, for example a function rendering the hydrophilicity or hydrophobicity of the active agent incompatible with its diffusion. .

For example, at least one photosensitive or thermosensitive polymer capable of binding to the active agent is used, for example by ionic bonding, this polymer having a mass that is not very compatible with diffusion in the skin, the mucous membranes or the hair, which forces the asset not to diffuse, for example a mass greater than 1000 g / mol. The destruction or modification of the polymer, for example chosen from polyesters, by a supply of energy releases the asset, which can then penetrate the keratin materials, especially in the hair or skin. The active ingredient may also have a rather heavy function, for example a mass greater than 1000 g / mol, such as a sugar, for example, or a hydrocarbon chain. The deactivated deactivated asset present in the starting composition may be provided with a function which removes its asset power. For example, a dye can be provided with a function that removes its color. The extraction of the function by energetic way allows him then to find his color.

A peeling active can be provided with a function that removes its acidic power. The supply of heat or light removes this function, and allows it to regain its acid power.

Among the functions that can be withdrawn by a supply of energy and useful for limiting the function of the asset or withdrawing its active power, mention may be made of:

Thermolabile functions i. sugars that are grafted to the active if it has an aldehyde function. The sugar may form a cyclic acetal function, thermolibrable, especially at around 50-100 ° C. ii. an acid or a carbonate that is grafted to the active if it has an amine or alcohol function. The acid forms an ester or amide, thermoliberable.

Photolabile functions

Those carrying a nitro group can be used, such as the orthonitrosobenzyl functions. By reacting by photoisomerization, they release the asset leaving after reaction a carboxylic acid or ketone function.

It is also possible to use the photolabile functions without a nitro group, such as, for example, 3 ', 5' dimetoxybenzoine (DMB), capable of forming a photolabile carbamate. The active is released leaving him after reaction, an amine function. Reference may be made to the article Photochemical Protection of 3 ', 5' - Dimethoxy benzoim (DMB) carbamates derived from Secondary Amines, M. C. Pirrung et al, Tetrahedron Letters, Vol 36, No 33; pp 5883-5884, 1995 Elsevier Science, Ltd., Pergamon.

Use of inhibitors

In exemplary embodiments of the invention, the starting composition comprises an inhibitor of an active agent, an inhibitor which is destroyed by the action of the stimulus. The destruction of the inhibitor is then exploited to change the activity of the composition. In other exemplary embodiments of the invention, the starting composition contains the active agent, an inhibitor of the active agent and an antagonist of the inhibitor, which constitutes the stimulus-sensitive compound. The release of the antagonist is exploited under the effect of the stimulus to enable the active to exert its action. The invention will be better understood on reading the following detailed description, non-limiting examples of implementation thereof, and on examining the appended drawing, in which: FIGS. 1 to 3 are block diagrams illustrating steps of implementation of methods according to the invention, - Figure 4 is an example of an abacus, - Figure 5 is an example of a table, - Figures 6 to 8 represent, so schematic, examples of systems, - Figure 9 illustrates the possibility for the system to exchange data with a server st stant, and - Figures 10 to 13 illustrate different configurations of systems according to the invention, - Figures 14 to 16 illustrate overall examples for the implementation of the invention.

In the example of FIG. 1, the user uses a table 5 or an abacus 6 to determine the adjustment to be made. The user reads in step 11 on the chart, for example as shown in Figure 4, the setting to perform. The chart may comprise several curves C1, C2 ... giving the setting to be made according to the respective source used SI, S 2, .. After reading the chart or table in step 11, the user can proceed to the eventual adjustment of the energy source in step 30 and then after exposure to the stimulus in step 40, the product can be used in step 50.

In the example of FIG. 5, the abacus relates to the environment of the user, for example the hardness of the water. The reading of the table gives the adjustment to be made to obtain a declination of the product suitable for the hardness encountered.

In a variant, the starting composition is proposed with an explanatory note indicating an action to be performed to change declination. The composition may be provided with an explanation 600 on a label affixed to a bottle 601; as illustrated in Figure 14, shown on a box 603, as shown in Figure 15, or on a record 605, as shown in Figure 15.

For example, the explanation 600 may include the indication that the composition can be used without prior heating in the case of low-limestone water and must be heated in a water bath for a given time to change its properties when using composition with; hard water, strongly calcareous.

In this case, steps 10, 20 and 30 may be replaced by a single step 10 'of choosing the declination.

The packaging may comprise, where appropriate, a diagnostic test 608 as described above, as illustrated in FIG. 15.

The packaging may include, where appropriate, a conversion table allowing, on the basis of one or more inputs, to determine the processing conditions. For example, the conversion table has two entries such as the cleanliness of the hair and the state of hardness of the water and allows to deduce the treatment conditions so that the cleaner the hair, the less the product must be. made concentrated in washing agent and the greater the hardness of the water, the more the product must be made concentrated in washing agent.

The system 1 may be more complex and comprise an interface 100 and a computer 200, as illustrated in FIG.

The computer and the interface may belong to an apparatus that can be used for other functions, such as a laptop, or be specific to the invention.

In the example of FIG. 6, the user enters data in the interface and can implement the method illustrated in FIG. 2. The data input corresponding to step 10 may take several forms, for example example answers a questionnaire, positioning a system of sliders or wheels. Data entry can be done by performing one or more diagnostic tests. For example, the user may put his hair in contact with a test product or a measuring device to deduce the color, fineness, or use a device for measuring the hardness of the water.

The system delivers back to step 20 adjustment indications of the energy source, and then the user performs in step 30 the adjustment and exposes the starting composition to the stimulus in step 40. After exposure to stimulus, rutilizer can apply the product that corresponds to the desired declination, in step 50.

Where appropriate, the system 1 may include or receive data from a sensor 110, for example a sensor for measuring the user or his environment.

System 1 illustrated in Figure 7 incorporates a. control means 300 of the energy source 400, which is however external to the system 1. H may be for example a furnace used elsewhere for cooking, However, the. energy source 400 may receive information from the control means 300, for example the energy level and the operating time. Thus, the user only has to confirm the start of the. energy source, preset by the system.

The system of FIG. 7 can be used to implement the procedure of FIG. 3. After the input of the data to the stage 10, the system determines the setting in step 21, then commands to step 31 the source of energy. The product obtained can be used in step 50.

In the example of FIG. 8, the energy source 400 is specific to the system 1 and integrated therewith.

The system 1 can be of autonomous operation or call, as illustrated in FIG. 9, to a remote server 500. The communication can be done for example by intranet, Internet or by a telephony network.

In Figure 10, there is shown. possibility of using a terminal 1 such as a computer, to determine setting data concerning a product, which is for example proposed to the consumer in a packaging 2 compatible with its passage in a microwave oven.

The product can be further conditioned, as illustrated in FIG. 11, in a packaging and dispensing device 2 which integrates a first part 1a of the system 1, the latter being able to exchange information with a second part 1b of the system, for example through a wireless link. The first part includes for example the source of energy. The second part may comprise the interface and the calculation means.

FIG. 12 represents a configuration similar to that of FIG. 11, the second part lb of the system being able to exchange information with a remote server 500.

FIG. 14 illustrates the possibility of producing the energy source in an integrated form to a specific apparatus 4 which may also comprise the interface and the calculation means. The starting composition is for example contained in a package 2 which can be separated from this apparatus.

Example 1

A shampoo formula containing an emulsion base is produced.

Silicones:

Poloxamer 407 (Dow Corning) 0.25 g

Trideceth -10 (Wacker) 4 g

Cationic surfactants

Genamin KDMP (Clariant) 1.5 g

Hydrotriticum WQ (Croda) 0.2 g

Demineralized water qs 89,75g

A powder formed of cationic surfactant and granular fatty alcohol is added thereto. Its composition:

Fat Alcohol

Myristic Alcohol (Lanette 14 of Cognis) 3,5g

Cationic surfactant

Genamin KDMP (Clariant) 4.5 g

Once manufactured, the product is packaged in bottles of 200 ml capacity.

There is provided a system comprising a user interface for inquiring about the level of care required C, for example over 100, the state of the hair E (100 for example for a very healthy hair and 0 for a very damaged hair).

The asset level is extracted according to the formula Arégiage = 8/100 * (C-E), with

Arégiage taken zero if the calculation gives a negative value.

Then the adjustment energy information is calculated, for example for a 900W power microwave oven, the operating time being given by T = A setting x 4 (in seconds).

The system informs the user of the setting to be made on the microwave oven. The user enters the system, places the product in the microwave and sets it according to the time T given by the system. Then, the user lets cool his product, and can use for several weeks as after shampoo.

Example 2

A coloring product is produced.

Silicones:

Poloxamer 407 (Dow Corning) 0.25 g

Trideceth -10 (Wacker) 4 g

Cationic surfactants

Genamin KDMP (Gleanant) 1.5 g

Hydrotriticum WQ (Croda) 0.2 g

Oxidation Staining Coupler: Resorcinol 0.8g

Demineralized water qs 89,75g

A mixture of cationic surfactant, fatty alcohol and an oxidation dye base is produced. After mixing at 50 ° C., the granular material of about 0.5 to 2 mm in diameter is allowed to cool and grind.

Its composition;

Fat Alcohol

Myristic Alcohol (Lanette 14 of Cognis) 3g

Cationic surfactant

Genamin KDMP (Clariant) 4 g

Oxidation coloring base:

Paraphenylene diamine lg

Once manufactured, the product is packaged under inert gas in bottles of 200 ml capacity.

A system is developed comprising a user interface making it possible to obtain information on the required level of coloration C, for example over 100, on the initial shade of hair N (100 for example for a white hair and 0 for a dark hair).

The asset level is extracted according to the formula A-bonding-8/100 * (C-N), with Α, -generally zero if the calculation gives a negative value.

Then the adjustment energy information is calculated, for example for a 900W power microwave oven, the operating time being given by T-A setting x 5 (in seconds).

The system informs the user of the setting to be made on the microwave oven. The user enters the system, places the product in the microwave and sets it according to the time T given by the system. Then the user lets the product sit for 2 minutes.

Then, afterwards, it mixes the product formed with 30 volumes hydrogen peroxide. He then uses the product by applying it on his hair. The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The phrase "with one" should be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one".

Claims (20)

1. A process for the cosmetic treatment of human keratin materials, from a starting composition comprising an active agent, the activity of which can be modified by exposure to a stimulus, the process comprising the steps of: choosing a variation of the product from among at least two product combinations corresponding to different degrees of exposure to the stimulus or determining a declination of the product other than on the basis of information from a sensor of a physical parameter of the user's environment; a clock signal or data from an external transmitter, exposing the stimulus to the starting composition to obtain the declination thus chosen or determined, apply as such the composition on keratin materials, after exposure to the stimulus. 2. Method according to claim 1, the declination being chosen by the user. 3. Method according to claim 1, the declination being determined from at least one measurement of a physical parameter of the user. The method of any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the amount of composition exposed to the one-time stimulus is greater than 1 g. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the user performs an adjustment of an energy source producing the stimulus on the basis of at least one information contained in a package of the composition or transmitted by a network, including the Internet. 6. Method according to claim 5, the setting information being read on an abacus or a table. 7. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising automatically determining the setting of a source of energy producing the stimulus. 8. The method of claim 7, the automatic determination being based on at least the acquisition of information relating to the use of the product and / or a result to achieve with the product. 9. System for the application of a cosmetic or dermatological product, comprising: a reservoir containing a starting composition, comprising an active agent, and whose activity is modifiable by exposure to a stimulus, at least two different degrees of activation of the starting composition leading respectively to two variations of the product, these variations being applicable as such to keratin materials, a first means comprising a user interface (100) allowing the user to enter at least one information related to the use of the product, and a second means for generating, as a function of at least one of the information entered by the user, at least one adjustment data of a source of energy making it possible to modify the activity of a quantity of product, in particular greater than 1g, to obtain a declination corresponding to said at least one information entered by the user. 10. System according to claim 9, the tank being provided with a removable closure means, in particular a hinged capsule, screwed or latched, a valve, in particular overmolded or elastic return member separate from the closure member. , a dispensing system operable by the user, and / or a dosing system including pump. 11. System according to claim 9 or 10, the first means comprising a sensor (150) of at least one physical characteristic of the user or the environment of the user. 12. System according to any one of claims 9 to 11, the interface comprising a signaling means for indicating to the user a setting to be made on the energy source to expose said quantity of product stimulus and change its activity . 13. System according to any one of claims 9 to 12, comprising a control means (300) of the energy source (400) according to the declination to achieve. 14. System according to any one of claims 9 to 13, the asset being contained in the inactive or weakly active state in the reservoir and the exposure to the stimulus increasing its activity. 15. System according to any one of claims 9 to 13, the active being contained in the active state in the reservoir and the exposure to the stimulus reducing its activity. 16. System according to any one of claims 9 to 15, at least one of the energy source, the interface and the control means being integrated with a device (2) portable packaging and distribution of the product, holding in hand. 17. System according to any one of claims 9 to 16, the stimulus comprising a light stimulus or microwave, thermal or mechanical. 18. System according to any one of claims 9 to 17, the interface being configured to allow the user to select a declination among at least two possible variations. 19. System according to any one of claims 9 to 18, the active agent comprising in the starting composition a grafted labile function rendering it inactive, in particular a photolabile function. 20. System according to any one of claims 9 to 19, the starting composition comprising an encapsulated active, the stimulus breaking the encapsulation to release the asset.