FR2862871A1 - The use of perfluoropolyethers in cosmetic or dermatological anti-pollution compositions to improve the effectiveness of anti-radical agents. - Google Patents

Abstract

The use of perfluoropolyethers to optimize the effects of anti-radicals and cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprising one or more anti-radical agents and one or more perfluoroethers. Independent claims are included for (1) the use of perfluoropolyethers in combination with one or more anti-radical agents to formulate a cosmetic or dermatological composition for the protection and repair of atopic skins, especially those exposed to pollution and most especially tobacco; and (2) Their use to formulate an anti-pollution composition intended for smokers.

Description

ANTI-POLLUTION COSMETIC COMPOSITION

  The present invention relates to a new cosmetic or dermatological composition, particularly intended to prevent and fight against the effects of pollution.

  Pollution is at the origin of the development of atopic symptoms of the skin. Under the effect of this aggression, the skin is hyper-sensitized and becomes particularly vulnerable which leads to a dull and gray complexion.

  The skins exposed to pollution are generally dry and irritated skin, in particular because the cells of the epidermis are weakened by a defective mechanism of water retention. Loss of moisture can eventually cause cracks, a receptacle for allergens, with possible development of atopic dermatitis. These dermatitis concern today a growing number of babies, whose fragile skin is directly affected by daily pollution.

  Micro-circulation disorders can also appear with tobacco consumption, direct pollution that causes a vasoconstrictor effect on the blood vessels. The latter contract, the blood supply is decreased, preventing adequate oxygenation of the skin.

  Pollution has the effect of weakening natural skin barriers, with an even greater effect in people whose skin is already naturally fragile, such as those of menopausal and 2862871 2 babies. In the menopausal woman, a weakening of the hormonal levels lessens the cutaneous hydrolipidic film and makes the skin more sensitive to the effects of the toxins. Redness may appear.

  Pollution also has the effect of stimulating the synthesis of free radicals, which leads to an alteration of the collagen and elastin fibers, with a definite acceleration of the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.

  Increasing the rate of free radicals is another cause of dullness. The alteration of the complexion also comes from the lack of oxygenation of the skin which leads to its asphyxiation. Thus tobacco smoke, which goes up the face during consumption, clogs the pores of the skin where comedones (blackheads) can appear. Nicotine consumption also causes the release of histamine which causes vessel vasoconstriction and the release of free radicals.

  The present invention therefore aims to prevent and reduce the harmful effects of pollution on the skin and limit the production of free radicals.

  The object of the invention is to remedy these effects related to pollution, in particular that linked to tobacco smoke, by proposing a cosmetic composition of anti-radical agents with particularly suitable effects, as they are reinforced by the combination with a perfluoropolyether.

  Perfluoropolyethers are known for their protective and emollient properties. (Cosmetic & Toiletries magazine, Vol 114 p53).

  The Applicant has sought to use the protective properties of perfluoropolyethers in cosmetics, and has observed that, surprisingly, their combination with an anti-radical has an unexpected effect on the complexion.

  From this observation, the Applicant has continued his research and the present invention shows that the action of anti-radicals commonly used in cosmetics is greatly enhanced when they are applied together with perfluoropolyethers. This combination makes it possible to optimize the effects of antiradicals, and to obtain excellent results in terms of protection and repair of atopic skin, especially skin subjected to the effects of pollution and in particular tobacco smoke.

  Advantageously ,. the antiradical active agent used for the manufacture of the composition according to the invention is superoxide dismutase (SOD), tocopherol acetate, butylhydroxytoluene (BHT) or else L-prolylhistamine hydrochloride of the type sold by the company EXSYMOL under the brand name EXSY-ARLTM. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the SOD is present in the composition in a proportion of between 0.10 and 1.00% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the L-ascorbyl-2-glucoside is also present in the composition, preferably in a proportion of between 0.10 and 1.00% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to an advantageous variant, the tocopherol acetate is present in the composition preferably in a proportion of between 0.20 and 0.60 by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. BHT may also be present in the composition in an amount of from 0.10 to 0.20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

  The perfluoropolyether used in the composition according to the invention is preferably selected from those which are hydrophobic but permeable to gases. Preferred perfluoropolyethers for the manufacture of the composition according to the invention are those which have the capacity to form a protective film of the skin, without blocking the pores of the skin. These perfluoropolyethers behave like shields of skin protection.

  According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the perfluoropolyether used in the composition is FOMBLIN, preferably FOMBLIN HC / 04 or HC / R. FOMBLIN is preferably present in the composition in a proportion of between 0.10 and 6.00% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic or dermatological anti-pollution composition having a reinforced antiradical activity, which protects the skin while allowing its oxygenation.

  The composition according to the invention also has the advantage of being devoid of comedogenic activity.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises a sunscreen. It has been shown that combined exposure to tobacco smoke or pollution and ultraviolet rays results in accelerated destruction of dermal proteins. This embodiment is particularly recommended for skin frequently exposed to the action of ultraviolet.

  In a particular embodiment of the invention, the sunscreen is microtitanium, green mica or a mixture of these two components.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition also comprises an anti-inflammatory, which reduces the redness caused by a hyper sensitization of the skin to polluting toxins. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, this anti-inflammatory agent is chosen from the natural licorice extract Glycyrrhiza glabra, the 18-P-glycyrrhetinic acid, the allantoin, the aloe vera, the chamomile, the enoxolone, L-ascorbic-2-glucoside.

  The subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of skin exposed to pollution and to tobacco smoke or the skin of smokers, characterized in that a composition comprising a mixture of a perfluoropolyether and an antiradical agent.

  Another subject of the invention is the use of perfluoropolyether, preferably in combination with an antiradical, for the manufacture of a cosmetic or dermatological composition intended for the prevention and / or treatment of the areas of the skin exposed to pollution. , and in particular pollution caused by tobacco consumption or smoke. The use of the composition according to the invention is therefore particularly intended for smokers.

  The composition according to the invention may be in the form of powder, cream, lotion milk, O / W or W / O emulsion, gel or in any other form that can be used in cosmetics. It may for example, but not necessarily, be incorporated into products intended for babies, in sunscreens, in powders or body sticks, in soaps or in make-up products.

  EXAMPLE 1 Composition Formulas for the Day Cream, "Shield Day Cream": Composition 1: Demineralized Water: 43.72% Uniphen P23: 0.60% Xylitol: 4.00% Triethanolamine 99%: 0.10% Brij 72: 2.00% Brij 721: 4.00% Miglyol 818: 1.00% Salacos 99: 0.00% Biosynth TIO: 4.50% Tocopherol acetate: 0.20% BHT: 0.10% NACOL 16-18: 2.00% DC 200/350: 2.00% Aristoflex AVC: 2.50% Demineralised water: 18.00% Dipropylene glycol: 6.00% Glycerin: 6.00% MT 100 TV: 0, 00% DC 344: 0.00% Ronosphere LDP: 0.10% Timiron Splendid Green: 0.10% Fomblin HC04: 1.00% Sodium Hyaluronate: 0.00% Demineralized Water: 0.00% Demineralized Water: 1 , 00% SOD Plant: 0, 50% Gingko biloba HS: 0.20% L-ascorbic 2 glucoside: 0.10% Exsy-ARL: 0.10% Ethyl alcohol 96: 0.00% Enoxolone: 0.00% Lactic acid: 0.0471% Demineralized water: 0.1286% Total: 100% Composition 2: Demineralized water: 40, 02% Uniphen P23: 0.60% Xylitol: 1.00% Triethanolamine 99%: 0.10% Brij 72: 2.00% Brij 721: 3.00% Miglyol 818 : 6,00% Salacos 99: 4,00% Biosynth TIO: 4,50% Tocopherol acetate: 0,20% BHT: 0,10% NACOL 16-18: 0,00% DC 200/350: 0,00 % Aristoflex AVC: 0.50% Demineralized water: 18.00% Dipropylene glycol: 3.00% Glycerin: 3.00% MT 100 TV: 1.00% DC 344: 4.00% Ronasphère LDP: 0.10% Timiron Splendid Green: 0.10% Fomblin HC04: 4.00% Sodium hyaluronate: 0.01% Demineralized water: 0.99% Demineralized water: 1.00% SOD Plant: 0.10% Gingko biloba HS: 0, 20% L-ascorbic 2 glucoside: 0.10% Exsy-ARL: 0.10% Ethyl alcohol 96: 2.00% Enoxolone: 0.10% Lactic acid: 0.0471% Demineralized water: 0.1286% Total: 100% Composition 3: Demineralized water: 32.62% Uniphen P23: 0.60% Xylitol: 1.00% Triethanolamine 99%: 0.10% Brij 72: 2.00% Brij 721: 3.00% Miglyol 818: 6, 00% Salacos 99: 4.00% Biosynth TIO: 4.50% Tocopherol acetate: 0.20% BHT: 0.10% NACOL 16-18: 2.00% DC 200/350: 2.00% Aristoflex AVC: 0.80% Demineralized water: 18.00% Dipropylene glycol: 3.00% Glycerin: 3.00% MT 100 TV: 1.00% DC 344: 4.00% Ronasphère LDP: 0.80% Timiron Splendid Green: 0, 50% Fomblin HC04: 6.00% Sodium hyaluronate: 0.01% Demineralized water: 0, 99% Demineralized water: 1.00 % SOD Plant: 0.10% Gingko biloba HS: 0.20% Lascorbic 2 glucoside: 0.10% Exsy-ARL: 0.10% Ethyl alcohol 96: 2.00% Enoxolone: 0.10% Lactic acid: 0 , 0471% Demineralized water: 0.1286% Total: 100% Composition 4: Demineralized water: 36.42% Uniphen P23: 0.60% Xylitol: 1.00% Triethanolamine 99%: 0.10% Brij 72: 2, 00% Brij 721: 3,00% Miglyol 818: 6,00% Salacos 99: 4,00% Biosynth TIO: 4,50% Tocopherol acetate: 0,60% BHT: 0,20% NACOL 16-18: 2 , 00% DC 200/350: 2.00% Aristoflex AVC: 1.20% Demineralized water: 18.00% Dipropylene glycol: 3.00% Glycerin: 3.00% MT 100 TV: 1.00% DC 344: 4.00% Ronasphère LDP: 0.10% Timiron Splendid Green: 0.10% Fomblin HC04: 0.10% Sodium hyaluronate: 0.01% Demineralized water: 0.99% Demineralised water: 1.00% SOD Vegetal : 1.00% Gingko biloba HS: 0.20% L-ascorbic 2 gluco side: 0.60% Exsy-ARL: 1.00% Ethyl alcohol 96: 2.00% Enoxolone: 0.10% Lactic acid: 0.0471% Demineralized water: 0.1286% Total: 100% Composition 5: Phase A: demineralized water: 38.32% Uniphen P23: 0.60% Xylitol: 1.00% Triethanolamine 99%: 0.10% Phase B: Brij 72: 2.00% Brij 721: 3.00% Miglyol 818: 6.00% Salacos 99: 4.00% Biosynth TIO: 4.50% Tocopherol acetate: 0.20% BHT: 0, 10% NACOL 16-18: 2.00% DC 200/350: 2.00% 2862871 11 Phase C: Aristoflex AVC: 1.20% Demineralized water: 18.00% Phase D: Dipropylene glycol: 3.00% Glycerin: 3.00% MT 100 TV: 1.00% E phase: DC 344: 4 , 00% Phase F: Ronasphere LDP: 0.10% Timiron Splendid Green: 0.10% Fomblin HC04: 1.00% G phase: Sodium hyaluronate: 0.01% Demineralized water: 1.99% SOD Plant: 0 , 10% Gingko biloba HS: 0.20% L-ascorbic 2 glucoside: 0.10% ExsyARLTM: 0.10% Phase H: Ethyl alcohol 96: 2.00% Enoxolone: 0.10% Phase I: Lactic acid: 0.0471% Demineralized water: 0.1286% Total: 100%

Example 2

  A usage test of composition 5 of Example 1, and a night cream comprising the same active ingredients, was carried out over a period of 28 days in volunteers according to the following protocols.

  The day cream is applied every morning for 28 days on volunteers exposed to tobacco pollution. After the application, volunteers feel that their skin is more supple. After 28 days of use, the skin is perfectly hydrated all day and looks rejuvenated and radiant. The gray effect mine is visibly lessened. The number of rednesses and their intensity seems diminished.

  2862871 12 The night cream is applied at night in a rather thick layer. In the morning, volunteers feel that their skin is more supple, hydrated, and they seem more relaxed because their skin is relaxed. After 28 days of use, the product "Night Cream" leaves the skin of the volunteers softer and hydrated. The skin is less sensitive, it appears rejuvenated because it has regained its flexibility. The product "Night Cream" has had a restructuring effect on the skin of volunteers by revitalizing it over the days, and repairing the damage it has suffered and accelerating its regeneration. So it helps to reduce the effect "cardboard skin" and the gray complexion.

  In conclusion, the volunteers found a visible effectiveness from the first applications with a skin smoother, re-energized and with less redness. The wrinkles are faded, and the complexion becomes more regular.

  Example 3: Evaluation of the antipollution effect of a product; studied product: carbon microparticle.

Claims (3)

SUMMARY OF THE PROTOCOL: recruitment, selection and compensation of 4 volunteers. At t = 0: the volunteers come to the laboratory without applying any product on the forearms; the technician responsible for the study defines two zones on the forearms. a product-treated area and an untreated area; the product is applied in standardized quantity (2 l / cm2) on the treated area. At t = 20 min: the technician applies a suspension of carbon (2 l / cm2) on the zones studied and let dry in the air.   2862871 13 At t = 1h: the technician rinses the zones with water and then dries them in a standardized way.   At t = 1:10: visualization and acquisition of video microscope images of the studied areas (on three different fields for each zone); the image analysis makes it possible to measure the quantity of carbon particles present on each zone. RESULTS   In order to express the decrease of pollution observed on the skin of the treated zone, compared to the untreated zone, the result is given in percentage of Protection (P%) compared to the untreated zone and is calculated according to the formula next: P% = ZNT-ZT) / ZNT) x 100 with: ZNT = amount of carbon particles measured on the untreated zone ZT = amount of carbon particles measured over the treated area For P% = 100%, the protection against pollution is total, the surface of the skin no longer shows any trace of carbon particles.   The table below presents the results obtained for each study area (average of the three fields studied) for the four volunteers as well as the mean * (n = 4), median, minimum, maximum, standard deviation on average ( SEM) and 95% confidence intervals (95% I.0) of these results. It also shows the percentage of protection (P%).   2862871 14 Voluntary Treated Area Untreated Area a (ZTr-ZNT) 1 4785 39799 -35015 2 1130 20315 -19185 3 5292 14520 -9229 4 6498 38964 -32466 Average 4426 28400 -23974 Median 5038 29640 -25825 Minimum 1130 14520 -35015 Maximum 6498 39799 -9229 SEM 1156 6452 6016 95% CI 3678 20530 19144 P% = 84 Compared with the untreated zone, the amount of carbon particles on the treated area is smaller for 100 of the volunteers studied.   On average (n = 4), the product "Day cream (composition 5 of Example 1)" allows a very good protection of the skin surface vis-à-vis pollution (statistically significant, p <0 , 05) its protective effect is 84%.   1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition, characterized in that it comprises a perfluoropolyether and an anti-radical agent.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said perfluoropolyether is FOMBLIN, preferably present in a proportion of between 0.10 and 6.00% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that said antiradical of superoxide dismutase (SOD), tocopherol acetate and / or butylhydroxytoluene (BHT).   4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it also comprises an anti-inflammatory, selected from the natural licorice extract Glycyrrhiza glabra, 10 glycyrrhetinic acid, allantoin, aloe vera, chamomile, enoxolone, L-ascorbic-2-glucoside.   5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises 0.10 to 1.00 by weight of SOD; 0.10 to 1.00 wt. L-ascorbyl-2-glucoside; 0.20 to 0.60% by weight of the tocopherol acetate; 0, 10 to 0.20% by weight of BHT, relative to the total weight of the composition.   6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it further comprises a solar filter.   7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that said sunscreen is microtitanium, green mica or a mixture of these two components.   8. Process for the cosmetic treatment of the skin exposed to pollution and tobacco smoke, characterized in that a composition comprising a mixture of a perfluoropolyether and a polyurethane is applied to the area of the skin thus exposed. anti-radical agent.   9. Use of perfluoropolyethers in combination with at least one antiradical, for the manufacture of a cosmetic or dermatological composition for the protection and repair of atopic skin, especially those exposed to pollution, and more particularly to tobacco smoke.   10. Use of perfluoropolyethers in combination with at least one antiradicalaire for the manufacture of a cosmetic or dermatological composition for the prevention and / or treatment of areas of the skin exposed to pollution.   11. Use according to any one of claims 9 or 10 for the manufacture of an anti-pollution composition particularly intended for smokers.   12. Use of perfluoropolyethers to optimize the effects of antiradicals.