EP1448157A1

EP1448157A1 - Cosmetic and/or dermatological preparation containing octadecene dicarboxylic acid and uv filtering substances

Info

Publication number: EP1448157A1
Application number: EP02802642A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Anja Göppel; Claudia Mundt; Jens Schulz; Rainer Wolber; Thomas Blatt; Reza Keyhani; Christoph Smuda; Franz STÄB
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2001-11-09
Filing date: 2002-11-04
Publication date: 2004-08-25
Also published as: US20050019279A1; JP2005507946A; KR20050043781A; WO2003039502A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing UV filtering substances combined with 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid.

Description

COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL PREPARATION CONTAINING OCTADECENE DICARBONIC ACID AND UV FILTER SUBSTANCES

The present invention relates to the use of active ingredients known per se for cosmetic and topical dermatological skin lightening or for preventing skin tanning, in particular skin tanning caused by UV radiation, and for lightening the natural hair color.

In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as e.g. unwanted pigmentation, e.g. local hyper- and deficient pigmentation (e.g. liver spots, freckles), inhibition of natural pigmentation, but also for purely cosmetic lightening of larger areas of the skin, which are pigmented to suit the individual skin type.

Melanocytes are responsible for the pigmentation of the skin. They are found in the lowest layer of the epidermis, the stratum basale, next to the basal cells as - depending on the skin type, either isolated or more or less frequently occurring pigment-forming cells. As characteristic cell organelles, melanocytes contain melanosomes, in which the melanin is formed. When stimulated by UV radiation, among other things, melanin is increasingly formed. This is ultimately transported via the living layers of the epidermis (keratinocytes) into the horny layer (comeocytes) and causes a more or less pronounced brown to brown-black skin color. Melanin is formed as the final stage of an oxidative process in which tyrosine, with the help of the enzyme tyrosinase, is converted into brown to brown-black eumelanins (DHICA and DHI melanin) over several intermediates or with the participation of sulfur-containing compounds to reddish pheomelanin. DHICA and DHI melanin are produced via the common intermediate stages dopaquinone and dopachrome. The latter will, partly with participation further enzymes, either in indole-5,6-quinone carboxylic acid or in indole-5,6-quinone, from which the two eumelanins mentioned arise. The formation of phaeomelanin occurs, among other things, via the intermediates dopaquinone and cysteinyldopa.

Similar to the pigmentation of the skin, melanin-producing melanocytes are also responsible for the hair color (pigmentation of the hair). The amount and composition of ^" melanin in the hair determines the natural hair color, which is genetically determined.

Problems with hyperpigmentation of the skin have a variety of causes or are associated with many biological processes, e.g. UV radiation (e.g. freckles, ephelides), genetic disposition, incorrect pigmentation of the skin during wound healing or scarring or skin aging (e.g. Lentigines seniles).

Active substances and preparations are known which counteract skin pigmentation. In practice, preparations based on hydroquinone are essentially used, but some of them only show their effect after several weeks of use, the excessive use of which is also of concern for toxicological reasons. The inhibition of tyrosinase with substances such as kojic acid, ascorbic acid and azelaic acid and their derivatives is also common, but has cosmetic and dermatological disadvantages.

Strongly prooxidative processes are used to lighten the hair color, which can severely damage the hair. The bleaching of hair with hydrogen peroxide is particularly well-known here.

The object of the present invention was to remedy this problem.

8-Hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid (dioic acid, CAS number 20701-68-2; provisional INCI name Octadecendioic acid) is a metabolite of yeast cells of the Candida strain. It is characterized by the following structure:

^" COOH A fatty acid of purely vegetable origin serves as the starting substance. This is converted into the hydroxy fatty acid, which is then oxidized to the fatty acid aldehyde and ultimately to the dicarboxy acid. The yeast cells come from selected mutant strains. The commercial product has a purity of 95%. 8-Hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid is present as a mixture of the cis and trans isomers, the cis isomer predominating in terms of quantity. Oleic acid can be contained in the product at a concentration of approximately 3%.

A large number of UV protection substances are used in cosmetic preparations to protect the skin from sunlight and the damage to the skin caused thereby. These are inorganic pigments, UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substances.

Hydroxybenzophenones are characterized by the following structural formula:

wherein

R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen, CC ₂₀ alkyl, C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkyl or C ₃ - do-cycloalkenyl, the substituents R ¹ and R ² together with the nitrogen atom to which they are bonded 5- or 6-ring can form and

R ^{3 represents} a CC ₂₀ alkyl radical.

However, none of this could pave the way for the present invention. It was therefore surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing UV filter substances and 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid remedy the disadvantages of the prior art. It is preferred if the preparations UV filter substances in concentrations of 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1.0 to 15.0 wt. %, based in each case on the total weight of the preparations, and 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid in a total concentration of 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.005-8% by weight, in particular 0.05-5% by weight. -% based on the total weight of the preparations. It is further preferred if a hydroxybenzophenone is used as the UV filter substance. It is further preferred if the hydroxybenzophenone is 2- (4 '- (diethylamino) -2'-hydoxybenzoyl) - benzoic acid hexyl ester, which is represented by the chemical structural formula

is marked, is selected. It is particularly advantageous if the content of one or more hydroxybenzophenones is from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 15% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, in each case on the total weight of the preparations.

It is furthermore of great advantage if the preparations contain at least one further UV filter substance, selected from the group consisting of triazines, benzotriazoles, the UV filter which is liquid at room temperature and organic and / or inorganic pigments, and are preferred as further UV-A -Filter substance and / or broadband filter dibenzoylmethane derivatives [in particular the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], phenylene-1, 4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt, 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidene-methyl) -benzene and its salts and 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2 -hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, it being possible for the further filter substances to be present individually or in any combination with one another.

The invention also includes the use of such cosmetic or dermatological preparations against unwanted pigmentation of the skin and / or for the treatment of pigmentation disorders. Furthermore, the undesirable pigmentation of the hair is reduced by the combination of active ingredients mentioned and thus brings about a brightening of the hair.

It is advantageous to use 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid in the form of one of its enantiomers.

The combination of 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid and UV filters, hereinafter referred to as “active ingredient combination according to the invention”, has proven to be extremely effective against undesired pigmentation, in particular local hyperpigmentation, and against skin tanning caused by UV radiation, specifically both preventively and in the sense of a treatment, but it is also extremely advantageous according to the invention to use the active substance combination or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations according to the invention with an effective content of active substance combination used according to the invention for the cosmetic or dermatological treatment of undesired skin pigmentation, ie for example inhomogeneous pigmentation aging skin, lentigines senile or postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.

The prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the active ingredient combination used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient combination used according to the invention is carried out in the usual way, in such a way that the active ingredient combination according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient combination used according to the invention is applied to the affected skin areas. It has surprisingly been found that the active substance combination according to the invention fulfills the objects on which the invention is based. The active ingredient combination according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into customary cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which can be in various forms. So you can e.g. a solution, an emulsion of the type water-in-oil (W / O) or of the type oil-in-water (O / W), or a multiple emulsions, for example of the type water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick, a transdermal therapeutic system or an aerosol.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, for example in the form of a cream, a lotion or a cosmetic milk, are advantageous and contain, for example, fats, oils, Waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation.

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to insert the active ingredient combination used according to the invention into aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are usually inconceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, consistency agents, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances, etc.

It is also advantageous to the active ingredient 8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid to be used in the form of molecular adducts of ^{'cyclodextrins.} It is believed that the cyclodextrin skeletons act as the host molecule and 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid as the guest molecule. For the preparation, cyclodextrins are dissolved in water and 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid is added. The molecular adduct then precipitates as a solid and can be subjected to the usual cleaning and preparation steps. It is known that cyclodextrin-guest complexes in an appropriate solvent (eg water) are in equilibrium between the specific guest-cyclodextrin complex and the dissociated form, it being possible for cyclodextrin and guest to be separated to a certain extent. Such balance systems are also advantageous in the sense of the present invention.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.

Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more medicaments in an effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products. It is also advantageous to add the active ingredient combination used according to the invention as an additive to preparations which already contain other active ingredients for other purposes.

Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions within the meaning of the present invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as a basis for pharmaceuticals Use wording.

It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to produce cosmetic and dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not to protect against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain other UV protection substances. So z. B. usually incorporated into day creams or makeup products UV-A or UV-B filter substances. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also effectively protect the preparations themselves against spoilage. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.

Accordingly, the preparations in the sense of the present invention preferably contain at least one further UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance. The formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.

The preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological emulsions which contain a water phase and at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature as a further phase.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2- Ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate) and Isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate (isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate).

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ 0 ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaS0 ₄ ).

For the purposes of the present invention, the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these pre-dispersions.

According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously have been surface-treated (“coated”), for example a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or retained. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are prepared using a thin method using methods known per se hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer The various surface coatings can also contain water in the sense of the present invention.

Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaP0 ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 Dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials. Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS-Nr. 70356- 09-1) carried by Givaudan under the trade name Parsol ^® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.

Advantageous further UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:

Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially that Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name bisimidazylate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which, for example is available from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP;

Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethaniumammonium salt, and sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS. No. 27503-81-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;

1, 4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) -benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) - bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo - [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts

(especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also known as benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-boronylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) becomes. Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS. No .: 90457-82-2) and is, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from from the company

Chimex available;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as, for. B.

2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso Triazine), which can be found under the trade name Tinosorb® S is available from CIBA-Chemie GmbH;

Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;

4 _] 4 ' _ι 4 "- (i _ι 3 _] 5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] - phenol (CAS no .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl® XL from Chimex.

The other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.

Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances in the sense of the present invention are e.g. B .:

^■ 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;

^■ 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

^■ Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone

■ as well as UV filters bound to polymers.

3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer which is available, for example, from Hoffmann La Röche under the trade name Parsol® SLX.

Advantageous water-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts. A further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, obtainable (octocrylene) from BASF under the name Uvinul ^® N 539th

Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention, which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A and / or UV-B protection, preferably also contain further UV-A and in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention / or broadband filter, especially dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-meth-oxydibenzoylmethane], phenylene-1,4, bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'- tetrasulfonic acid and / or its salts, the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and / or its salts and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2- Ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, in each case individually or in any combination with one another.

The list of the UV filters mentioned, which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.

The preparations according to the invention advantageously contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic To provide preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

It is also advantageous to add customary antioxidants to the preparations for the purposes of the present invention. According to the invention, all of the beneficial antioxidants for cosmic table and / or dermatological applications suitable or common antioxidants can be used.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-camosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, retinoids such as retinol, retinal and / or retinoic acid and the respective esters, α-lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. Dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols ^' (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl -, Oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesterol and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfox imines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α - hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, 2-aminopropionic acid diacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), as well as benziferyl benzoate, as well as coniferyl benzoate and their derivatives, ferulic acid and their derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybu tyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSÖ4) selenium and its

Derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 0.1-10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation. If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, the following can be used as solvents:

Water or aqueous solutions

Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or

Glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;

Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or - monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether,

Diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products.

Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used in particular. Water can also be a component of alcoholic solvents.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions for the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl ethylhexyl palmitate stearate, 2-octyIdodecyIpalmitat, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, eg jojoba oil. Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol esters, saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _2-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Mixtures of C ₁₂ are particularly advantageous. ₁₅ alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of Cι ₂ . ₁₅ alkylbenzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _12-15 alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example that available under the Hallbrite BHB trade name from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethyl hexyl naphthalate (Hallbrite TQ).

The oil phase can advantageously also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. But other silicone oils are also advantageous in the sense of to use the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.

Gels used in the present invention usually contain low C number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and water or an oil mentioned above in the presence of a thickening agent which is preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate in the case of oily alcoholic gels and preferably a polyacrylate in the case of aqueous alcoholic or alcoholic gels.

Fixed pens contain e.g. natural or synthetic waxes, fatty alcohols or fatty acid esters. Lip care sticks and stick formulations for body deodorization are preferably used.

Common raw materials which are suitable for use as cosmetic sticks in the sense of the present invention are liquid oils (for example paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate), semi-solid components (for example petroleum jelly, lanolin), solid components (for example beeswax, ceresin and microcrystallines) Waxes or ozokerite) and high-melting waxes (e.g. carnauba wax, candelilla wax).

Suitable blowing agents for cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations sprayable from aerosol containers for the purposes of the present invention are the customary known volatile, liquefied blowing agents, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or as a mixture with one another. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.

Of course, the person skilled in the art knows that there are non-toxic propellant gases per se which would in principle be suitable for the implementation of the present invention in the form of aerosol preparations, but which should nevertheless be dispensed with because of their harmful effects on the environment or other accompanying circumstances, in particular fluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons ( CFC).

Cosmetic preparations in the sense of the present invention can also be in the form of gels which, in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and solvents normally used for this purpose, preferably water, and also organic thickeners, eg gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, eg. B. aluminum silicates such as bentonite, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is contained in the gel, for example, in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention.

Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, percentages or parts relate to the total weight of the preparations or the respective mixtures. In the examples, “aminobenzophenone” is to be understood as meaning the hexyl 2- (4 '- (diethylamino) -2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoate.

Formulation examples 1. PIT emulsions

4. Hydrodispersions

5. Gel cream:

8. Pearlescent conditioner shampoo

The pH is adjusted to 6.

9. Clear conditioner shampoo

The pH is adjusted to 6.

10. Clear light shampoo with volume effect

The pH is adjusted to 5.5. 11. PIT emulsions

13. W / O emulsions

14. Hydrodispersions

16.W / O / W emulsion

17. Solid stabilized emulsions

Claims

claims:

1. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing UV filter substances and with 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid.

2. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that UV filter substances in concentrations of 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1.0 up to 15.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparations, and 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid in a total concentration of 0.001-10% by weight,

, preferably 0.005-8% by weight, in particular 0.05-5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, is present.

3. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one hydroxybenzophenone is used as UV filter substances.

4. Preparation according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that as the hydroxybenzophenone, the aminobenzophenone, which by the chemical structural formula

is marked, is selected.

5. Preparation according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized by a content of one or more hydroxybenzophenones of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 10 wt. -% each based on the total weight of the preparations.

6. Preparation according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one further UV filter substance selected from the Group thazines, benzotriazoles, the UV filter liquid at room temperature and organic and / or inorganic pigments.

7. Preparation according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one further UV-A filter substance and / or a broadband filter, selected from the group dibenzoylmethane derivatives [in particular the 4- (tert.-

Butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], phenylene-1, 4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid-bis-sodium salt, 1, 4-di (2-oxo -10-sulfo-3-bomylidene-methyl) benzene and its salts and 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1 , 3,5-triazine, contains, where the further filter substances can be present individually or in any combination with one another.

8. Use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to at least one of the preceding claims against unwanted aging and / or pigmentation of the skin and / or for the treatment of pigmentation disorders.

9. Use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to at least one of the preceding claims against 2 against unwanted pigmentation of the

Hair and / or for lightening the hair.