EP1383473A2

EP1383473A2 - Cosmetic and dermatological preparations comprising a hop extract or hop-malt extract and their use for reducing the sebum content of the skin

Info

Publication number: EP1383473A2
Application number: EP02740431A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Stefan Gallinat; Andreas Herpens; Helga Biergiesser; Kirsten Venzke; Franz STÄB
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2001-03-23
Filing date: 2002-03-21
Publication date: 2004-01-28
Also published as: WO2002076410A2; WO2002076410A3; DE10114304A1; US20040141938A1

Abstract

The invention relates to the utilization of a hop extract or hop-malt extract for producing preparations used for reducing the production of sebum and/or for regulating a normal sebum homeostasis as well as for the prophylaxis and treatment of acne, unclean skin, oily hair and dandruff.

Description

description

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing hop or Hop-malt extract and use of a hop or hop-malt extract for the production of cosmetic and dermatological preparations for reducing the sebum content of the skin

The present invention relates to the use of topical preparations for reducing sebum production, for maintaining normal sebum homeostasis, for removing sebum from the skin, in particular for removing and clarifying comedones, for preventing comedone formation, for reducing pore size, for prophylaxis and for treatment seborrhea and blemished skin, for the treatment of mild forms of acne as well as against oily hair and dandruff.

Sebaceous gland overproduction and the possible resulting skin disorders such as sebum retention, formation of comedones in the area of the sebaceous glands, i.e. in the face (especially forehead, nose and chin) and on the upper back, are common skin problems that have not yet been solved to a satisfactory extent are.

Sebum is the secretion of the sebum gland. Sebaceous glands are bulges of the follicular epithelium and therefore part of the follicle with which they form a functional unit. They are holocrine glands, which means that the entire glandular cell is largely converted into the sebum secretion. The cells of the sebum gland, which are constantly renewed from below, become fat and disintegrate, and the skin sebum thus formed is emptied onto the surface of the skin through the follicle openings.

The skin sebum exists after G. Leonardy (J.Ft. Jellinek cosmetology, purpose and structure of cosmetic preparations, Dr. Alfred Hüthig-Verlag, Heidelberg - Mainz - Basel, third completely revised and significantly expanded edition 1976, pages 26 to 29) from mono-, di- and triglyce (C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ ), waxes (C ₁₆ -C ₂₆ ), wax esters (C ₂ 8-C ₃₈ ), normal saturated fatty acids (Cι ₀ -C ₁₈ ), branched-chain saturated fatty acids (Cn-C ₁₈ ), polybranched saturated fatty acids (C ₁₃ -C ₁₈ ), monounsaturated fatty acids (Cn-C ₁₈ ), polyunsaturated fatty acids (C ₁₃ , C ₁₅ -C ₁₇ ), sterols (Cholesteπn, 7 -Dehydrocholesterιn, 7-hydroxycholesterιn), branched and unbranched hydrocarbons (C ₃ oC ₄ o), squalene and phosphopiden

Together with the water secretion of the specific sweat glands, the lipids of the sebaceous glands form the so-called hydro-lipid film of the skin. This surface film is an emulsion, which can be a water-in-oil or an oil-in-water emulsion. It has the function to keep the skin surface supple and to regulate the water content of the deep-lying skin layers. With good hydration of the sebum, the water content is at least 10 to 20% by weight and the sebum is hydrophilic. If the hydrophilic-hpophile balance of the surface film is no longer present and the water content drops, this is how the sebum changes and becomes hydrophobic. The outflow of sebum from the sebaceous gland and follicle is obstructed. Skin sebum stagnates in the follicular mouths, which can then lead to comedones and inflammation of the follicles

The change in skin sebum and the initiation of comedone formation can have various causes. For example, external influences, such as incorrect cleaning habits and incorrect care, comedogenic substances in cosmetics, weather influences, alkaline soaps, harsh detergents. An increased sebum gland secretion and the formation of comedones can also develop through genetic factors and hormonal influences Here, too, comedones, inflammation, pre-acne and acne with their after-effects can result

The frequency of skin damage due to impaired sebum gland function and diseases of the sebum glands is increasing more and more, and the return / avoidance of comedone formation is a matter of urgency. However, previous attempts to solve comedone formation as a causal problem have led to unsatisfactory results

In addition to the manual removal of the comedones by printing, numerous cleaning methods are known which attempt to remove comedones and Long-term prevention of comedone formation These include special soaps, skin-shelling compositions and the like. Softening and softening agents are also used. In addition, attempts are made to reduce the tendency to acne by adding drying, keratolytic, antiseborrheic and antibacterial agents in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations without skin irritation or drying out

However, skin cleansing degreases the skin and removes moisture from it. In addition, soaps have the disadvantage that the water-insoluble calcium and magnesium salts of higher fatty acids that form in hard water form slimy precipitates on the skin when these soaps are used Skin, clog the follicular mouths and can lead to the formation of comedones.Therefore, syndets (i.e. non-soap surfactants) in the form of washing creams or washing lotions are mainly used for skin cleansing.These syndets do not form lime soaps, but treatment with highly surface-active agents has an effect on them Skin has a stronger degreasing and drying effect than soap The more frequently soap and surfactant-containing products are used on the skin, the clearer are their adverse effects, namely degreasing and drying out the skin by destroying the hy dro-lipid film in the foreground Almost always, the reduction of the comedones leads to a lowering of the water content in the upper layers of the skin and to a firm formation of concrements in the sebaceous glands, which in turn can induce inflammation. The lowering of the moisture content of the skin is, however, for a caring removal of the Comedones counterproductive

Seborrhea is an increased function of the sebaceous glands due to predisposition. Both the scalp and facial skin appear greasy. The composition of seborrhoeic sebum is different from that of normal sebum. There are 3 stages of seborrhea development. 1 Simple seborrhea. Light cases, greasy after 8 days

2 oily seborrhea greasy after only 2-3 days

3 Irreversible form is irreversible. Seborrhea, in which the hair looks bathed in fat after just one day The excessive secretion of the sebaceous glands can be triggered by, among other things, androgenetic disorders and has an aesthetic disadvantage on the overall appearance of the hair. This disorder can also be the cause of hair loss. Its precursor is the seborrhoeic condition of the scalp. Vegetative disorders and improper care can do this Skin condition and hair condition worsen Even with seborrhea, hair can be dry even due to keratin build-up. Dry, damaged hair is often caused by external stress such as sun or chemical treatments. Too hot blow drying or improper care of damaged hair can cause damage to lead

The causes of oily hair are in the human body and are caused by hormones. Each hair has its own sebum gland that produces fat (sebum, sebum). Sebum production is hormonally controlled and, depending on the hormone sensitivity of the sebum gland, it can cause an overuse - or come underproduction The sebum itself has the function of keeping the scalp supple.It arrives from the sebum gland on the scalp and only later the hairline where it is normally absorbed by the hair shaft and remains invisible. In a sebum production the hair shaft is no longer able to do so It is visible as a greasy film on the hair. The result is streaky, greasy shiny hair

Because the sebum gland production is dependent on the hormone balance, the problem of greasy hair cannot be solved in principle, because the sebum glands constantly produce fat. Consistent care and high-quality nurses are still the best method to combat oily hair

Oily hair has very heavy effects. The hair becomes streaky again shortly after washing and the hairstyle does not hold

Contrary to popular belief, it is only a rumor that washing your hair too often makes it greasy more quickly. Mild shampoos for greasy hair ensure that excessive fat is removed. Hair and scalp are supplied with sufficient moisture and balance the overproduction of the sebum glands Oily hair and dandruff are among the most common hair problems. These abnormalities are due to a disruption of the sebaceous gland activity. If the sebaceous glands are overactive, we speak of seborrhea. There are two types: oily form (seborrhea oleosa) and dry form (se borrhoe sicca)

Seborrhoea oleosa

Here there is an overfunction of the sebaceous glands, in which the sebum glands produce too much and too oily sebum. The skin therefore shows an oily sheen, and the hair is greasy and streaky up to the tips just 2 to 3 days after washing

The seborrhea sicca

It is also due to an overfunction of the sebum glands, but the skin sebum is drier, it has a firmer consistency. With the scales of the epidermis, it forms large, easily friable sebum scales. The scalp shows a wax-like shine, the hair only greases at the base, the long ones and especially the tips are dry and even brittle

The treatment of seborrhea includes regular and thorough head washing with special shampoos, which can be carried out as often as necessary.The wash should be combined with a massage in the connective tissue, because it empties sebum glands more, which delays re-greasing

The object of the present invention is to provide a preparation which does not have the disadvantages of the known and previously used agents, which has a sebum-reducing, fat-regulating and nourishing effect at the same time, removes the already existing comedones without irritation, degreasing and drying out effectively prevents the skin, which brings homeostasis of sebum secretion to a normal state, prevents the formation of comedones and the development of inflammatory skin symptoms, causes a reduction in pore size and is effective in the prophylaxis before and treatment of acne, as well as existing skin inflammation is improved and equivalent cares for the skin

This object is achieved by the use of a hop or Hop-malt extract for the preparation of preparations for reducing the production of sebum dissolved.

Surprisingly, when using the preparation, the comedogenic effect of the raw materials used in the preparation is abolished and the formation of comedones and, accordingly, the development of acne caused by cosmetic ingredients are prevented.

It has also been found that the active ingredients used according to the invention prevent the formation of seborrheic phenomena, in particular greasy hair, but also dandruff, and to eliminate existing seborrheic phenomena, in particular greasy hair, but also dandruff.

According to the invention, a method for the prophylaxis against and treatment of impure skin, for reducing the pore size, mild forms of acne, inflammatory skin conditions or seborrheic symptoms, in particular oily hair and / or dandruff, is characterized in that the active ingredients used according to the invention are characterized in that a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier to be brought into contact with the area affected by increased sebum production.

The prior art did not provide the slightest indication of the use according to the invention as an antiseborrheic active principle.

A further preferred embodiment of the present invention are therefore formulations to be used against dandruff, for example antidandruff shampoos.

According to the invention, the active ingredients are preferably used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions with a content of 0.0005-50.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-20.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, being preferred. The compositions advantageously contain 0.02-10.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.02-5.0% by weight of the active ingredients used according to the invention, very particularly advantageously 0.1-3.0% by weight, each based on the total weight of the composition. It can be advantageous according to the invention to add further agents which act against sebum to the preparations according to the invention, for example selected from the group of starch phosphate, cyclodextrin, sodium um maize starch octylene succinate, silica-dimethyl silylate, hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate, tapioca dextrin, aluminum Starch octylene succinate, acrylate copolymer, magnesium carbonate, maize starch, aluminum starch octylene succinate, kaolin, nylon (eg nylon 6/12), bentonite, sodium silicoaluminate, boron nitride, silica, mica + titanium dioxide. Furthermore, it may be advantageous to encapsulate the active compounds according to the invention, for. B. as a so-called solid lipid nanoparts with the help of melted waxes, which, among other things, but not exclusively, can be selected from the group of ester waxes, triglyceride waxes or hydrocarbon waxes. Furthermore, it may be advantageous to encapsulate the active compounds according to the invention in polymers, for. B. in particles based on highly cross-linked polymethacrylates and / or cellulose triacetates and / or as core / shell particles with a shell made of poly (oxymethylurea), nylon, polyamides, polyurethane, polyester, gelatin and polyolefins.

The combination of one or more substances, selected from the above group, with the hop or hop-malt extracts used according to the invention leads to a synergistic enhancement of the effect of the individual substances and thus has an independent inventive step.

The active ingredients used according to the invention can be incorporated into common cosmetic or dermatological formulations without difficulty, advantageously in pump sprays, aerosol sprays, creams, ointments, tinctures, lotions, sticks, washing products and the like.

It is also possible and possibly advantageous to combine the active substances used according to the invention with other active substances, for example with other antimicrobial, antimycotic or antiviral substances.

It is advantageous to buffer the compositions according to the invention. A pH range from 3.0 to 9.0 is advantageous. It is particularly favorable to choose the pH in a range from 4.0 to 6.5. The cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations according to the invention can be composed as usual and can be used to treat the skin and / or the hair in the sense of a dermatological treatment or a treatment in the sense of nourishing cosmetics. They can also be used in make-up products in decorative cosmetics

For use, the cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics and dermatics

Preparations which contain the active compound combinations according to the invention and conventional antioxidants can be used according to the invention

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and its derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene, phytoene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (eg dihydro-ponic acid), aurothioglucose, Propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl) , Oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds ( z. B. Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocyste- insulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathi oninsulfoximine) in very low contractual doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactofer n), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, Malic acid), tetrahydrocurcumin, humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bihrubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, alanine diacetic acid, polylaphenol diacid, poly Catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoic resin, ruthenic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, Butylhydroxyto-toluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakharzsaure, nordihydroguajaretsaure, tri- hydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation

The prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the active ingredient used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is carried out in the customary manner, in such a way that the active ingredient used according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is applied to the affected skin areas

The active ingredient used according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into conventional cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which can be in various forms. For example, they can be a solution, an emulsion of the water-in-oil (W / O) type or of the oil-in type. Water (OΛ / V), or a multiple emulsions, for example of the type water-m-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (OΛΛ // O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick or an aerosol

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, for example in the form of a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk, are advantageous and contain, for example, fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers such as them commonly used for such a type of formulation

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to insert the active ingredient used according to the invention in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are usually inconceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, consistency agents, fillers, perfumes, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances, etc.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.

Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more medicaments in an effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.

It is also advantageous to add the active ingredient used according to the invention as an additive to preparations which already contain other active ingredients for other purposes.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous, for example, to use a content of UV protection substances.

Preparations according to the invention can therefore advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:

3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, for example 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester; Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;

2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine.

The following are advantageous as water-soluble substances:

2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, e.g. Sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts,

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-pxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

The list of UVB filters mentioned, which can be used according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.

It can also be advantageous to use UVA filters in the preparations according to the invention, which are usually contained in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations. Such filter substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Preparations containing these combinations are also the subject of the invention. The same amounts of UVA filter substances that were mentioned for UVB filter substances can be used.

Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics. Metics to protect the skin from UV rays are used. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, and modifications in which the oxides are the active agents are particularly preferred the pigments are based on titanium dioxide. The amounts mentioned for the above combinations can be used

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations used in accordance with the invention can contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives of the kind normally used in such preparations, for example antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments , which have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic Solvents or silicon derivatives

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, solvents can be used

Water or aqueous solutions

Oils, such as Tnglyceπde the Capπn- or the caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil, fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or Glycenn, or esters of Fatty alcohols with low C number alkane acids or with fatty acids,

Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycene, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or

-monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products

In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used. In the case of alcoholic solvents, water can be a further constituent The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions for the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be chosen from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethyl-2-ethylhexyl, ethyl-2-ethylhexyl, ethyl-2-ethylhexyl 2- octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycne esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C ₁₂ . ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Mixtures of C ₂ .i ₅ alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl iso- are particularly advantageous. stearate, mixtures of d ₂ -ι ₅ alkylbenzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C ₁₂ . ₁₅ alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageously used in the context of the present invention.

The oil phase can advantageously also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention advantageously advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether , Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- or -monoethylether and analogous products, furthermore low C-number alcohols, eg Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. Hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopols, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.

Gels used according to the invention usually contain alcohols of low C number, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and water or an oil mentioned above in the presence of a thickener which is used in the case of oily alcoholic len is preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate, in the case of aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels it is preferably a polyacrylate.

Fixed pens contain e.g. natural or synthetic waxes, fatty alcohols or fatty acid esters.

Common basic materials which are suitable for use as cosmetic sticks in the sense of the present invention are liquid oils (for example paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate), semi-solid components (for example petroleum jelly, lanolin), solid components (for example beeswax, ceresin and microcrystallines) Waxes or ozokerite) and high-melting waxes (e.g. carnauba wax, candelilla wax)

Suitable blowing agents for cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations which can be sprayed from aerosol containers for the purposes of the present invention are the customary known volatile, liquefied blowing agents, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.

Of course, the person skilled in the art knows that there are non-toxic propellant gases per se which would in principle be suitable for the implementation of the present invention in the form of aerosol preparations, but which should nevertheless be dispensed with because of their harmful effects on the environment or other accompanying circumstances, in particular fluorocarbons and Chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs).

Cosmetic preparations in the sense of the present invention can also be present as gels which, in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and solvents usually used for this purpose, preferably water, and also organic thickeners, for example gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, Hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, e.g. B. aluminum silicates such as bentonite, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is contained in the gel, for example, in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight. The following examples are intended to illustrate the embodiment of the present invention. The information always refers to% by weight, unless other information is given.

4. Example (gel cream):

Mass content (%)

Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylates 0.40

Crosspolymer

Carbomer 0.20

Xanthan gum 0.10

Cetearyl alcohol 3.00

C12-15 alkyl benzoates 4.00

Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 3.00

Cyclometicone 5.00

Dimeticone 1.00

Hop or hop malt extract 0.20

Glycerin 3.00

Sodium hydroxide q.s.

Conservation q p.

Perfume q.s.

Water demineralized from 100.0 pH set to 6.0

Example (W / O cream)

Lameform TGI 3.50

Glycerin 3.00

Dehymuls PGPH 3.50

Hop or hop malt extract 0.50

Preservatives q.s.

Perfume q.s.

Magnesium sulfate 0.6

Isopropyl stearate 2.0

Caprylyl ether 8.0

Cetearyl isononanoate 6.0

Water, demin. ad 100.0 Example (W / O W cream):

Mass content (%)

Glyceryl stearate 3.00

PEG-100 stearate 0.75 behenyl alcohol 2.00

Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 8.0

Octyldodecanol 5.00

C12-15 alkyl benzoates 3.00

Hop or hop malt extract 1.00 magnesium sulfate (MgSO ₄ ) 0.80

EDTA 0.10

Conservation q.s.

Perfume q.s.

Water demineralized from 100.0 pH set to 6.0

Claims

claims:

1. Use of a hop or hop malt extract for the preparation of preparations for reducing the production of sebum and for reducing the pore size of the skin.

2. Use according to claim 1 for the adjustment of normal sebum homeostasis and / or for the treatment and care of oily, oily and impure skin.

3. Use according to claim 1 for preventing the formation and removal of comedones and for the prophylaxis before and treatment of acne.

4. Use according to claim 1 for the prevention or elimination of seborrheic phenomena, in particular for the prophylaxis and treatment of oily hair, but also in dandruff.

5. Cosmetic method for the prophylaxis against and treatment and care of impure, oily and oily skin, seborrheic phenomena, reduction in pore size, comedones, acne, in particular oily hair and / or dandruff, characterized in that the hops or hops -Malt extract in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier with which the area affected by increased sebum production is brought into contact.

6. Use according to claim 1 or method according to claim 5, characterized in that the hop or hop malt extract is used, a content of 0.0005 - 50.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.01 - 20.0 wt .-%, accordingly, based on the total weight of the composition.

7. Use according to claim 1 or method according to claim 5, characterized in that the hop or hop malt extract is used, a content of 0.02-10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 - 5.0 wt .-%, particularly advantageously 0.1 - 3.0 wt .-%, accordingly, each based on the total weight of the composition.

8. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing hops or Hop-malt extract.

9. Preparations according to claim 8, characterized in that the hop or hop malt extract is used, a content of 0.0005 - 50.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.01 - 20.0 wt .-% %, corresponding to the total weight of the composition.

10. Preparations according to claim 8, characterized in that the hop or hop malt extract is used, a content of 0.02 - 10.0 wt .-%, preferably

0.02 - 5.0% by weight, particularly advantageously 0.1 - 5.0% by weight, correspondingly, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.