DE102010026465A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological topical composition, useful e.g. to treat wrinkle, comprises e.g. soy extract, active ingredient comprising monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, extracts of e.g. potato, hyaluronic acid and tocopherol - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological topical composition (I) comprises: at least an extract from soy; at least an active ingredient comprising monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, N-2-24C-acyl amino acids or their esters and/or metal salts; and/or extracts of e.g. potato; hyaluronic acid; apple seed extract; plant hormones; isoflavonoids; phytosterol; triterpenoid; tocopherol; chroman or -chromene compound (II) or (III); ellagic acid and/or ellagate; xanthophyll; superoxide dismutase; lactic acid bacteria; and/or ethylhexanoate, methyl butyrate and/or ethyl decadienoate or its derivatives. Cosmetic or dermatological topical composition (I) comprises: at least an extract from soy; 0.001-10 wt.% of at least an active ingredient comprising monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, N-2-24C-acyl amino acids or their esters and/or metal salts; and/or extracts of dill ( Peucedanum graveolens), corinth (currant), cardamom ( Elettaria cardamomum), black radish, small holly, cinnamon, oats ( Avena sativa), potato or asafoetida gum; hyaluronic acid; apple seed extract; plant hormones; isoflavonoids; phytosterols; triterpenoids; tocopherols; 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-dialkyl chroman or -chromene compound of formula (II) or (III); ellagic acid and/or ellagate; xanthophylls, preferably astaxanthin; superoxide dismutase; fermentation based lactic acid bacteria; ethylhexanoate or its derivatives; methyl butyrate or its derivatives; and/or ethyl decadienoate or its derivatives, in a carrier. R1, R2 : OH, OCH 3or CF 3CH 2O; and R3, R4 : 1-4C alkyl, preferably lipochroman-6. [Image] ACTIVITY : Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The invention relates to topical cosmetic or dermatological skin treatment compositions which counteract skin aging and its signs.

Means and treatment methods for treating mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged or photodamaged skin, especially for anti-wrinkle treatment, are a significant cosmetic challenge. The aging process is characterized by a progressive transfer of skin cells from a proliferative status to a resting, senescent status. This transition corresponds to aging at the cellular level, to which much of the macroscopic aging effects can be attributed. The number of cells in the tissue decreases and can no longer be filled due to lack of proliferating cells. As a result, repairs of the surrounding tissue can not be performed, defects accumulate, causing the skin to become atrophied and slack. Among other things, this effect is intensified by UV light, which also pollutes the skin and accelerates its aging and relaxation.

It is an object of the present invention to provide preparations for the treatment and significant reduction of the manifestations of skin aging, which have far surpassed commercially available products in terms of performance. It was a further object of the present invention to develop a new, stable and cosmetically effective skincare preparation for the prophylaxis and treatment of skin aging phenomena, in particular wrinkles and wrinkles. In particular, skin care should be increased by the skincare preparation.

It has now been found that the properties of known compositions can be improved if certain per se known ingredients are combined in these compositions.

• a) mindestens einen Extrakt aus Soja,
• b) 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines Wirkstoffes aus der Gruppe – der Monomeren, Oligomeren und Polymeren von Aminosäuren, N-C₂-C₂₄-Acylaminosäuren, den Estern und/oder den physiologisch verträglichen Metallsalzen dieser Substanzen und/oder – der Exrakte aus der Gruppe, bestehend aus Dill (Peucedanum Graveolens), Korinthe (Johannisbeere), Kardamom (Elettaria cardamomum), schwarzem Rettich, kleiner Stechpalme, Zimt, Hafer (Avena sativa), Kartoffel, Seide, und Asea foetida gum und/oder – Hyaluronsäure und/oder – Apfelkernextrakt und/oder – der Phytohormone und/oder – der Isoflavonoide und/oder – der Phytosterole und/oder – der Triterpenoide und/oder – der Tocopherole – der 6,7-disubstituierten 2,2-Dialkylchromanen oder -chromenen der allgemeinen Formeln (II) oder (III),
  
  wobei R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander eine OH-Gruppe, eine Methoxy-Gruppe oder eine CF₃CH₂O-Gruppe und R³ und R⁴ unabhängig voneinander eine C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe darstellen, insbesondere Lipochroman-6 und/oder – Ellagsäure und/oder Ellagate und/oder – der Xanthophylle, insbesondere Astaxanthin, und/oder – der Superoxiddismutasen und/oder – Milchsäurebakterien-basierten Fermentationen und/oder – Ethylhexenoat und seinen Derivaten und/oder – Methylbutyrat und seinen Derivaten und/oder – Ethyldecadienoat und seinen Derivaten.

In a first embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological topical compositions comprising, in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier, based on their weight,

• a) at least one extract of soya,
• b) 0.001 to 10 wt .-% of at least one active ingredient from the group - the monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acyl amino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances and / or - the extracts from the group consisting of dill (Peucedanum graveolens), currant (currant), cardamom (Elettaria cardamomum), black radish, small holly, cinnamon, oats (Avena sativa), potato, silk, and asea foetida gum and / or - hyaluronic acid and / or - apple seed extract and / or - the phytohormones and / or - the isoflavonoids and / or - the phytosterols and / or - the triterpenoids and / or - the tocopherols - the 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-dialkylchromans or chromenes of the general formulas (II) or (III),
  
  wherein R ¹ and R ² independently of one another represent an OH group, a methoxy group or a CF ₃ CH ₂ O group and R ³ and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group, in particular lipochroman-6 and / or - ellagic acid and / or ellagates and / or - the xanthophylls, in particular astaxanthin, and / or - the superoxide dismutases and / or Lactic acid bacteria-based fermentations and / or ethylhexenoate and its derivatives and / or methylbutyrate and its derivatives and / or ethyldecadienoate and its derivatives.

The compositions of the invention contain at least one extract of soybean.

An extract in the sense of the present application is a substance or substance mixture which has been obtained by extraction and partial or complete evaporation of the extraction solution. A distinction is made according to the nature dry extracts d. H. Extracted to dryness extracts, fluid extracts d. H. extracts prepared with solvents such that at most 2 parts of fluid extract are recovered from one part of the drug, viscous extracts or thickness extracts, d. H. Extracts in which part of the solvent is evaporated.

The extract used according to the invention is obtained from the respective plant parts (eg stems, flowers, leaves and in particular beans) or mixtures thereof by extraction, preferably with organic solvents, water or mixtures thereof. Preferred organic solvents are ketones (eg acetone), ethers, esters, alcohols or halogenated hydrocarbons. Particularly preferred extractants are water and / or alcohols. Among the alcohols, (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol, both as the sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Particularly preferred extractants are water, ethanol, 2-propanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, very particularly preferably water, ethanol, 2-propanol and 1,2-propylene glycol and mixtures thereof, for. As a mixture of 1,2-propylene glycol / water in the ratio 4: 1.

The extraction is preferably carried out at a temperature of 25 ° C to 90 ° C.

Particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that the extract comprises at least one polar solvent selected from ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol , Glycerin and water, and mixtures thereof.

Depending on the choice of the extraction agent, it may be preferable to stabilize the extract by adding a solubilizer. Suitable solubilizers are, for. B. Ethoxylation products of optionally hydrogenated vegetable and animal oils.

Preferred solubilizers are ethoxylated mono-, di- and triglycerides of C8-22 fatty acids having from 4 to 50 ethylene oxide units, e.g. Hydrogenated ethoxylated castor oil, olive oil ethoxylate, almond oil ethoxylate, mink oil ethoxylate, polyoxyethylene glycol caprylic / capric acid glycerides, polyoxyethylene glycerol monolaurate and polyoxyethylene glycol coconut fatty acid glycerides. Olive oil ethoxylate (INCI name: PEG-10 Olive Glycerides) is particularly preferred.

The dry matter of the extract is dependent on the molecular weight and the solubility of the dispersed ingredients and is usually 1 to 80 wt .-%, in each case based on the weight of the extract. Preferably, the dry matter is 15 to 50 wt .-% and particularly preferably 20 to 35 wt .-%. With a molecular weight of the ingredients above 100,000 daltons, a dry matter of 1 to 20 wt .-% may be preferred and a dry matter of 1 to 10 wt .-% may be particularly preferred. Particularly preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that the dry matter of the extract is 5-80% by weight, based on the weight of the extract.

Very particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.002 to 9% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.01 to 7% by weight. % and in particular 0.05 to 6 wt .-% extract (s) from soybeans.

The compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the soybean extract, at least one active ingredient from the group of raw materials which improve collagen and / or glycoaminoglucan synthesis, epidermic differentiation and / or elastin integrity. As a preferred ingredient from this group, monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances have proven useful.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the monomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, desmosine, Dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isodesmosine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, Valine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate, sodium decanoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium cetoylglutamate and sodium stearoylglutamate.

The C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical with which the said amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl , Undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents. With the aforementioned C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radicals, the amino acids which carry an OH group may also be esterified to this OH group. A preferred example of this according to the invention is hydroxyproline, which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residues, more preferably dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, which is e.g. B. Sepilift PDHP available from the company Seppic.

The physiologically acceptable salts of the inventively preferred active ingredients containing acid groups and can form salts are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

According to the invention, amino acid oligomers are peptides having 2-30, preferably 2-15, amino acids. The oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified. Numerous of these amino acid oligomers stimulate collagen synthesis or are able to recruit immune system cells, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then, via the release of growth factors, repair processes in the tissue, eg. B. Collagen synthesis, induce, or are able to bind to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys in thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thus active TGF-β (tissue growth factor), the synthesis of collagen in dermal Fibroblasts induced to release. Such amino acid oligomers can be used as anti-aging agents.

According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol with the INCI name Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val- Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-β-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester (e.g., Calmosensine from Sederma), carnosine (β-Ala-His). His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg. According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Gly-His-Lys, z. B. under the name "Omega-CH activator" from GfN or in acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL is available from Sederma, but (in acylated form) also a component of the product Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma. The tripeptide Gly-His-Lys can also be used as a copper salt (Cu ²⁺ ) and is available as such from ProCyte Corporation.

Furthermore, analogues of Gly-His-Lys can be used, wherein a maximum of two amino acids are substituted by suitable other amino acids. For the substitution of Gly, Ala, Leu and Ile are suitable according to the invention. The inventively preferred amino acids that can replace His or Lys include a side chain with a nitrogen atom that is predominantly charged at pH 6, eg. Pro, Lys, Arg, His, desmosine and isodesmosine. Most preferably, Lys is replaced by Arg, Orn or citrulline. A further preferred tripeptide according to the invention is Gly-His-Arg (INCI name: tripeptide-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, which, for. B. available under the name Collasyn 314-GR from Therapeutic Peptide Inc.; Further preferred tripeptides according to the invention are selected from Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab (Dab = diaminobutyric acid), Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys- Val-Dap (Dap = diaminopropionic acid), Dap-Val-Lys, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, e.g. As sold by the company Pentapharm under the name ^® SYN -COLL, Lys-Pro-Val, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (Tripeptide-2), Tripeptide-4 (z. ATPeptides, via IMPAG), His-Ala-Orn N -elaidoyl-Lys-Phe-Lys and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ .

Preference according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides are selected from Rigin and Rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides. Rigin assigns the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg on. Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the invention particularly preferred N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, z. B. is available under the name Eyeliss of Sederma, but also forms part of the product Matrixyl 3000 of Sederma. The Rigin analogs include those in which the four amino acids are rearranged and / or in which a maximum of two amino acids are substituted to Rigin, z. For example, the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg. Preferably, at least one of the amino acids of the sequence has a Pro or Arg, and more preferably, the Tetrapeptide includes both Pro and Arg, and their order and position may vary. The substituting amino acids can be selected from any amino acid defined below. Particularly preferred rigin-based tetrapetides include: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, where Xaa , Xbb and Xcc may be the same or different amino acids and wherein Xaa is selected from Gly and the amino acids that can substitute Gly, Xbb is selected from Gln and the amino acids that can substitute for Gln, Xcc is selected from Pro or Arg and the Amino acids that can substitute Pro and Arg.

The preferred amino acids that can replace Gly include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. Β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile).

The preferred amino acids which can replace Gln include a side chain having an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), e.g. Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine.

The preferred amino acids that can replace Arg include a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin.

As Rigin analogs according to the invention Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred.

ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides containing at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain, e.g. Β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile). Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), e.g. Gln, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides may contain any amino acid; however, preferably the fourth amino acid is also selected from the three abovementioned groups.

Optionally N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides which are preferred according to the invention are selected from Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, which is available under the Matrixyl is available from Sederma, further N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, Gly- Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-benzyloxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors for desquamation inhibition).

Preferred, if appropriate, N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides according to the invention are Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly Acetyl-Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline from Lipotec), Hexapeptide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), Hexapeptide-5 (e.g. Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (e.g., Collasyn 614VG from TPI), hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from TPI ), Myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience) and hexapeptide-10 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec), Ala -Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., modulene from Vincience), acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., SNAP-7 from Centerchem), hexapeptide-2 (eg, melanostatine-DM from Vinci ence), Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptide-3, e.g. Peptide 02 from Vincience), Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, hexapeptide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (eg Collasyn 614VG from TPI), Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine-homophenylalanine-Trp (hexapeptide-7) Hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (e.g., Collaxyl from Vincience), hexapeptide-10 (e.g. B. Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec) and hexapeptide-11 (eg, Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care). An inventively preferred pentadecapeptide is z. For example, the Vinci 01 raw material from Vincience ( Pentadecapeptide-1). Another preferred amino acid oligomer is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (glistine exsymol).

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, as obtainable, for example, in the raw material Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma.

The polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from vegetable and animal protein hydrolysates and / or proteins. Animal protein hydrolysates are z. B. elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, conchiolin and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Vegetable protein hydrolysates, eg. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. DiaMin® ^® (Diamalt) Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda). Particularly preferred are soy protein hydrolysates, more preferably soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 daltons, e.g. B. under the trade name Ridulisse C ^{® available} from the company Silab, and soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 Dalton, preferably 800 Dalton, z. As available under the trade name Phytokine ^® from Coletica. with coconut fatty acids N-acylated and / or esterified Soyaproteinhydrolysaten in the form of their alkali metal salts. Coconut fatty acids include predominantly alkanecarboxylic acids having a number of carbon atoms of 8-18, especially caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids. Preferred alkali metal salts are selected from lithium, sodium and potassium salts, with the potassium salts being particularly preferred.

Another particularly preferred soy protein hydrolyzate according to the invention is an N-acylated and / or esterified soy protein hydrolyzate with coconut fatty acids in the form of the potassium salt, which is available from Sinerga under the trade name Coccopolipeptide di Soya.

Also preferred according to the invention are keratin hydrolysates, in particular wool keratin hydrolysates. A particularly preferred wool keratin hydrolyzate is available under the name Keratec Pep from Croda. Keratec Pep has a smaller molecular weight fraction having an average molecular weight of 150 daltons and a larger molecular weight fraction having an average molecular weight of 1265 daltons. Also preferred according to the invention are conchiolin hydrolyzates, in particular those which are obtainable under the names Pearl Protein Extract and Pearl Protein Extract BG from the company Maruzen. Conchiolin is a complex protein produced from the outer epithelium of molluscs, in particular pearl shells and various types of snails, and forms the very stable shell of these molluscs by incorporation of calcium carbonate crystals.

Naturally, protein hydrolysates may also contain monomeric amino acids and oligopeptides; their composition is usually undefined.

Also preferred is the use of acyl derivatives of protein hydrolysates, z. In the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^{® ®} or Crotein (Croda).

Another active ingredient which is preferred according to the invention and whose action is improved in the presence of the at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the formula (A), in particular (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (obtainable, for example, from US Pat. under the trade name Glistin exsymol).

In summary, preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the oligomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances are selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides, which may be N-acylated and / or esterified.

Very particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide is selected from Tyr-Arg and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester, Gly-His-Lys and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys, Gly-His-Arg, and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, Lys-Val-Lys and its N-acylated derivatives, especially palmitoyl-lys- Val-Lys, Val-Tyr-Val, Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg (Rigin), Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys- Ser and his N acylated derivatives, in particular N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, especially N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro -Gly, acetyl-hexapeptide-3, hexapeptide-4, hexapeptide-5, myristoyl hexapeptide-5, myristoyl hexapeptide-6, hexapeptide-8, hexapeptide-9, hexapeptide-10, L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole, as well as combinations of these substances, in particular combinations of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg.

• – tierischen und pflanzlichen Proteinhydrolysaten,
• – tierischen und pflanzlichen Proteinen und
• – DNA-Reparaturenzymen.

Also preferred are compositions in which the polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acyl amino acids and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances are selected from

• - animal and vegetable protein hydrolysates,
• - animal and vegetable proteins and
• - DNA repair enzymes.

Here very particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain at least one DNA repair enzyme, preferably photolyase and / or T4 endonuclease V and / or 8-oxoguanine glycosylase and / or mixtures thereof.

The DNA repair enzymes can be encapsulated in liposomes as well as freely, that is, not encapsulated. The liposome encapsulation can preferably be carried out with phospholipids, more preferably with lecithin. Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of at least one liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzyme. Liposome-encapsulated photolyase is commercially available for. B. under the product name Photosomes ^TM (INCI name: Aqua, lecithin, plankton extract) liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. B. under the name Ultrasomes ^TM (INCI name: Aqua, lecithin, Micrococcus Lysate) from AGI Dermatics, USA, available. Since a longer period of storage of both the commercial product and the compositions of the invention between the encapsulated aqueous phase containing the enzyme and the non-encapsulated outer aqueous phase equilibrium, a part of the DNA repair enzymes is present without encapsulation.

In the compositions according to the invention, the commercial products Photosomes ^™ or Ultrasomes ^{™ are} preferred in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 0.5-5.0% by weight and most preferably 1.0-4.0% by weight .-%, based on the total agent included.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one DNA repair enzyme is present in total amounts of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight, more preferably 0.001-0.01-0.05 Wt .-% and most preferably 0.002-0.005 wt .-%, is contained.

Very particularly preferred skin treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the DNA repair enzyme (s) in amounts of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight, based on the weight of the skin treatment agent %, more preferably 0.001-0.05% by weight, and most preferably 0.002-0.005% by weight.

Instead of the compounds mentioned above or in addition to them, the agents according to the invention may also contain active substances which stimulate the enzymatic activity or the expression of the L-isoform of the lysyl oxidase (LOXL).

By the term "LOXL" or "hLOXL" is meant the L-isoform of the human protein lysyl oxidase LOXL. By the term "LOX" or "hLOX" is meant the initial isoform ("pisoform initial") of the human protein lysyl oxidase LOX. "Stimulating the expression of the isotype of lysyl oxidase LOXL" is the stimulation of the expression of the gene encoding LOXL , or by its promoter, and in particular, stimulation of the synthesis of the messenger RNA coding for LOXL and also stimulation of the synthesis of LOXL resulting from this messenger RNA is meant by "stimulating the expression of elastin of the isoform the lysyl oxidase LOXL "is meant to stimulate the expression of the gene encoding the elastin protein or its promoter, and in particular to stimulate the synthesis of the messenger RNA encoding the elastin protein and also to stimulate the synthesis of the Proteins elastin or its precursor, tropoelastin, resulting from this messenger RNA, meant.

Agents are considered to be effective in achieving activation or a 1.5-fold increase in the expression and / or activity of LOXL in a model comprising at least one cell type expressing LOXL expression and / or activity over the human body Has contact with these agents, in relation to the expression level and / or activity level of LOXL in a control model (without contact with the active substances).

Advantageously, the expression of LOXL is either the expression of a nucleotide sequence encoding LOXL, or the expression of an amino acid sequence representing a partial sequence of the LOXL protein, preferably wherein the amino acid sequence is selected from SEQ ID NO: 1.

• – der Extrakte aus der Gruppe, bestehend aus Dill (Peucedanum Graveolens), Korinthe (Johannisbeere), Kardamom (Elettaria cardamomum), schwarzem Rettich, kleiner Stechpalme, Zimt, Hafer (Avena sativa), Kartoffel, Seide, und Asea foetida gum und/oder
• – Milchsäurebakterien-basierten Fermentationen und/oder
• – Ethylhexenoat und seinen Derivaten und/oder
• – Methylbutyrat und seinen Derivaten und/oder
• – Ethyldecadienoat und seinen Derivaten.

Advantageously, the active substance is selected from the group

• - Extracts from the group consisting of dill (Peucedanum graveolens), currant (currant), cardamom (Elettaria cardamomum), black radish, holly, cinnamon, oats (Avena sativa), potato, silk, and asea foetida gum and / or
• - Lactic acid bacteria-based fermentations and / or
• Ethylhexenoate and its derivatives and / or
• Methyl butyrate and its derivatives and / or
• - Ethyl decadienoate and its derivatives.

Instead of the compounds mentioned above or in addition to them, the compositions according to the invention may also contain hyaluronic acid (hyaluronan). Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan found in the connective tissue, vitreous humor, umbilical cord and synovial fluid of the joints.

Hyaluronic acid is a high molecular weight compound with molecular weights between 50,000 and several million. The basic building block of hyaluronic acid is an aminodisaccharide composed of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine in β- (1 ^® 3) -glycosidic bond, which is linked to the next unit β- (1 ^® 4) glycosidic.

The unbranched chain of hyaluronic acid consists of 2000-10000 such units. Hyaluronic acid chains are helically arranged in solution.

Instead of the above-mentioned compounds or in addition to them, the compositions according to the invention may also contain extracts of apple kernels.

A particularly preferred apple seed extract according to the invention is the commercial product Ederline of the manufacturer Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes. According to the manufacturer, in vitro tests with cultured skin cells show effects on the synthesis of collagen type I and collagen type III as well as on fibronectin. Furthermore, a positive effect of Ederline on the skin relief was measured in volunteer studies. In addition, the manufacturer's claims claim antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. The product Ederline is once in water-soluble form as Ederline-H (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), on the other in fat-soluble form as Ederline-L (INCI : Hexyldecanol, Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract) available.

Ederline suitable amounts according to the invention are 0.1-10 wt .-%, preferably 1-8 wt .-% and particularly preferably 3-5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition. Based on the content of active ingredients, apple seed extracts according to the invention in amounts of 0.001-2 wt .-%, preferably 0.01-1.6 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.03-1 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition, used.

• – Derivate der 1H-Indol-3-ylessigsäure
• – Gibberelline
• – Cytokinine
• – Abscisinsäure

verstanden.Instead of the compounds mentioned above or in addition to them, the compositions according to the invention may also contain phytohormones. In the context of the present invention, phytohormones (plant growth substances) are plant growth substances from the groups of

• - Derivatives of 1H-indol-3-ylacetic acid
• - gibberellins
• - cytokinins
• - abscisic acid

Understood.

The first group includes z. As the 2-Naphthyloxyessigsäure, benzoic acid derivatives, phenoxycarboxylic acid derivatives, etc.

Instead of the compounds mentioned above or in addition to them, the compositions according to the invention may also contain isoflavonoids. Isoflavonoids are flavonoids, sometimes referred to as isoflavones group of mostly yellow-colored plant dyes derived from isoflavone. The main body isoflavone (3-phenylchromone, 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran-4-one) occurs in clover types.

Some more well-known isoflavones are daidzein (4 ', 7-dihydroxy-isoflavone), genistein (4', 5,7-trihydroxy-isoflavone); Prunetin (4 ', 5-dihydroxy-7-methoxy-isoflavone); Biochanin A (5,7-dihydroxy-4'-methoxy-isoflanone); Orobol (3 ', 4', 5,7-tetrahydroxy isoflavone); Santal (3 ', 4', 5-trihydroxy-7-methoxy-isoflavone).

Instead of the compounds mentioned above or in addition to them, the agents according to the invention may also contain phytosterols. Phytosterols (phytosterols) are sterols from plants and yeasts (mycosterols). They differ from sterols of animal origin by a double bond to C-22 and C ₁ - or C ₂ substituents at C-24. The most common plant sterols are stigmasterol, β-sitosterol and campesterol.

Instead of the compounds mentioned above or in addition to them, the agents according to the invention may also contain triterpenoids. Triterpenoids (triterpe) are natural products composed of 6 isoprene units with 30 carbon atoms belonging to the group of terpenes. At present, about 5000 triterpenes are known. The simplest triterpene is acyclic squalene, which is also the parent of all other triterpenes. Monocyclic, bicyclic and tricyclic triterpenes are very rare. They arise as a result of a disturbed squalene cyclization, such. B. the tricyclic Ambrein. The majority of triterpenes is tetracyclic or pentacyclic.

Instead of the compounds mentioned above or in addition to them, the compositions according to the invention may also contain tocopherols. Tocopherols is the name for chroman-6-ols (3,4-dihydro-2H-1-benzopyran-6-ols) substituted at the 2-position with a 4,8,12-trimethyltridecyl radical.

enthalten, wobei R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander eine OH-Gruppe, eine Methoxy-Gruppe oder eine CF₃CH₂O-Gruppe und R³ und R⁴ unabhängig voneinander eine C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe darstellen.As a further particularly suitable compound, the agents according to the invention may be 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-dialkylchromans or chromenes of the general formulas (II) or (III)

wherein R ¹ and R ² independently represent an OH group, a methoxy group or a CF ₃ CH ₂ O group and R ³ and R ⁴ independently represent a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group.

The substituents R ¹ and R ² are independently selected from an OH group, a methoxy group and a CF ₃ CH ₂ O group. In a preferred embodiment, R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently selected from an OH group and a methoxy group. In a particularly preferred embodiment, R ^{1 represents} an OH group and R ^{2 represents} a methoxy group.

The substituents R ³ and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group. According to the invention, C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group is a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl , Isobutyl- or 2-methylpropyl, sec-butyl or 1-methylpropyl or a tert-butyl group to understand. In a preferred embodiment, R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl and an n-butyl group. Particularly preferably, R ³ and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a methyl or ethyl group. It is extremely preferred that R ³ and R ^{4 are} identical.

The 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-dialkylchromans are preferably used according to the invention. An extremely highly preferred active ingredient according to the invention is 2,2-dimethyl-6-hydroxy-7-methoxychromane with the systematic name 3,4-dihydro-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethyl-2H-1-benzopyran-6 ol and the INCI name dimethylmethoxy chromanol. The substance is available under the trade name Lipochroman-6 from Lipotec S.A.

The 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-dialkylchromans or chromenes of the general formulas (II or (II) are preferably used in amounts of 0.001-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.005-2 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01 -1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition used.

In summary, compositions according to the invention are preferred which, by weight, are 0.0001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 5% by weight, even more preferably 0.002 up to 2.5% by weight and in particular from 0.005 to 2% by weight of 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-dialkylchromans or chromenes of the general formulas (II) or (III) as defined above, preference being given to based on their weight - 0.0001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 7.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, still more preferably 0.002 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.005 to 2% by weight of lipochroman-6.

ist frei und in Form von Glycosiden und/oder Methylethern im Pflanzenreich weit verbreitet, besonders in Galläpfeln, Blattgallen, auch in den Blättern von Eucalyptus-Arten, in Eichen und Euphorbien.As a further particularly suitable compound, the compositions according to the invention may contain at least one substance from the group of ellagic acid and / or ellagates. Ellagic acid (2,3,7,8-tetrahydroxy [1] benzopyrano [5,4,3-cde] [1] benzopyran-5,10-dione

is free and widespread in the plant kingdom in the form of glycosides and / or methyl ethers, especially in galangals, leaflets, also in the leaves of eucalyptus species, in oaks and euphorbias.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, by weight, from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 5% by weight, still further preferably 0.002 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.005 to 2 wt .-% ellagic acid (2,3,7,8-tetrahydroxy [1] benzopyrano- [5,4,3-cde] [1] benzopyran-5 , 10-dione) and / or ellagates.

As a further particularly suitable compound, the compositions according to the invention may contain at least one substance from the group of xanthophylls, in particular astaxanthin.

Xanthophylls is the group name for hydroxy, epoxy and oxo derivatives of carotenoids. Examples of compounds suitable according to the invention are (for example canthaxanthin, citranaxanthin, flavoxanthin, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, zeaxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, violaxanthin and in particular astaxanthin). The naturally occurring xanthophylls. are mostly all-trans connections.

Compositions preferred according to the invention contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight and in particular from 0.02 to 1% by weight. % Xanthophylls, preferably canthaxanthin, citranaxanthin, flavoxanthin, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, zeaxanthin and most preferably astaxanthin ,.

As a further particularly suitable compound, the compositions according to the invention may contain at least one substance from the group of superoxide dismutases. Compositions preferred according to the invention contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight and in particular from 0.02 to 2% by weight. % Superoxide dismutase (s).

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Particularly preferred vitamin A components according to the invention are vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol, and also esters thereof, such as retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the photocatalytically active metal oxide used according to the invention, at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin group A or at least one ester thereof in total amounts of 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0 , 05-0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

• – Vitamin B₁, Trivialname Thiamin, chemische Bezeichnung 3-[(4'-Amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl)-methyl]-5-(2-hydroxyethyl)-4-methylthiazoliumchlorid. Bevorzugt wird Thiaminhydrochlorid in Mengen von 0,0005 bis 0,1–1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₂, Trivialname Riboflavin, chemische Bezeichnung 7,8-Dimethyl-10-(1-D-ribityl)benzo[g]pteridin-2,4(3H,10H)-dion. Bevorzugt werden Riboflavin oder seine Derivate in Mengen von 0,0005 bis 0,1–1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0005 bis 0,1–1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Bevorzugt wird Panthenol eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung werden an Stelle von sowie zusätzlich zu Pantothensäure oder Panthenol auch Derivate des 2-Furanon mit der allgemeinen Strukturformel (VIT-I) eingesetzt.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ , common name thiamine, chemical name 3 - [(4'-amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl) methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
• - Vitamin B ₂ , trivial name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3H, 10H) -dione. Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
• - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. Preferred derivatives of panthenol according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (VIT-I) are used instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol.

Particularly preferred are the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R ¹ to R ^{6 are} independently a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, linear or branched C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono , Di- or triamino-C ₂ -C ₄ hydrocarbon radical. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 Dimethyl 2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), expressly including all stereoisomers. The extremely preferred 2-furanone derivative according to the invention is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), where in formula (I) R ^{1 is} a hydroxyl group, R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom, R ³ and R ^{4 represent} a methyl group and R ⁵ and R ^{6 represent} a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid.

• – Vitamin B₆, wobei man hierunter keine einheitliche Substanz, sondern die unter den Trivialnamen Pyridoxin, Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal bekannten Derivate des 5-Hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols versteht. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Vitamin B₆-Komponente in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.
• – Vitamin B₇ (Biotin), auch als Vitamin H oder ”Hautvitamin” bezeichnet. Bei Biotin handelt es sich um (3S,4S,6aR)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazol-4-valeriansäure. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Biotin und den Biotinestern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.
• – Folsäure (Vitamin B₉, Vitamin B_c). Internationaler Freiname für N-[4-(2-Amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino)-benzoyl]-L-glutaminsäure (N-Pteroyl-L-glutaminsäure, PteGlu). Folat wird synonym zu Pteroylglutamat gebraucht, Folate ist der Sammelbegriff für alle Folsäure-wirksamen Verbindungen und bezeichnet eine Substanzklasse, die einen mit 4-Aminobenzoesäure und L-Glutaminsäure verbundenen Pteridin-Ring enthält. Folsäure ist ein Wachstumsfaktor für verschiedene Mikroorganismen und eine Verbindung mit Vitamincharakter, die in der Natur meist als Polyglutamat und in reduzierter Form (7,8-Dihydrofolsäure, H₂Folat, DHF; Tetrahydrofolsäure, H₄Folat, THF; 5'-Methyl-Tetrahydrofolsäure, CH₃-H₄Folat, MeTHF) vorkommt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Folsäure, Folaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01 bis 0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.
• – Orotsäure (Vitamin B₁₃, 1,2,3,6-Tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidin-carbonsäure, Uracil-6-carbonsäure, Molkensäure). Orotsäure, ihr Cholinester oder Orotsäure-Metallsalze (Orotate von Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) sind erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Orotsäure, Orotaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001–1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01–0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type and of the 2-furanone derivatives in a total amount of 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight. , Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

• - Vitamin B ₆ , which is understood hereunder no uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one vitamin B ₆ component in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• - Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3S, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from biotin and the biotin esters in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• - Folic acid (Vitamin B ₉ , Vitamin B _c ). International generic name for N- [4- (2-amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino) -benzoyl] -L-glutamic acid (N-pteroyl-L-glutamic acid, PteGlu). Folate is used synonymously with pteroylglutamate, folate is the generic term for all folic acid-active compounds and refers to a class of compounds containing a 4-aminobenzoic acid and L-glutamic connected pteridine ring. Folic acid is a growth factor for various microorganisms and a compound of vitamin character, which is usually found in nature as polyglutamate and in reduced form (7,8-dihydrofolic acid, H ₂ folate, DHF, tetrahydrofolic acid, H ₄ folate, THF, 5'-methyl). Tetrahydrofolic acid, CH ₃ -H ₄ folate, MeTHF). Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from folic acid, folates and their esters, in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.
• - Orotic acid (vitamin B ₁₃ , 1,2,3,6-tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidine-carboxylic acid, uracil-6-carboxylic acid, molar acid). Orotic acid, its choline ester or orotic acid metal salts (orotates of Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) are particularly preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from orotic acid, orotates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001-1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one substance which is selected from the vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of the group B ₁ , B ₂ , B ₃ , B ₆ , B ₇ , B ₉ , B ₁₃ and their esters and pantolactone.

Preferred vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of group C and their esters are vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and the derivatives ascorbyl palmitate, stearate, dipalmitate, acetate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate, disodium ascorbyl phosphate and sulfate, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, chitosan ascorbate or ascorbyl. The combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the said compounds of the vitamin C type in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

The vitamin E group includes tocopherol, especially α-tocopherol, and its derivatives.

Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one substance selected from tocopherol and its derivatives in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0, 5 to 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin B ₇ (see above).

The fat-soluble vitamins of the vitamin K group, which are based on the basic structure of 2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, include phylloquinone (vitamin K ₁ ), farnoquinone or menaquinone-7 (vitamin K2) and menadione (vitamin K ₃ ) , Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one vitamin K in a total amount of from 0001 to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 0.01% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 0.5 Wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

Vitamin A palmitate (retinyl palmitate), pantolactone, nicotinamide, pyridoxine, pyridoxamine, pyridoxal, biotin, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate, and the tocopherol esters, especially tocopheryl acetate, are particularly preferred in the present invention.

In summary, compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.25 to 3.5% by weight preferably 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% vitamins and / or pro-vitamins and / or vitamin precursors containing, preferably, the groups A, B, C, E, F and H, with preferred agents panthenol ((±) -2,4-dihydroxy-N- (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl-butyramide, provitamin B ₅ ) and / or pantothenic acid (vitamin B ₃ , vitamin B ₅ ) and / or niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide (vitamin B ₃ ) and / or L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and / or thiamine (vitamin B ₁ ) and / or riboflavin (vitamin B ₂ , vitamin G) and / or Biotin (vitamin B ₇ , vitamin H) and / or folic acid (vitamin B ₉ , vitamin B _c or vitamin M) and / or vitamin B ₆ and / or vitamin 812.

Preferred optional ingredients of the cosmetic compositions of the invention can be defined by their function. Of course, some ingredients can also be multifunctional. Preferred ingredients of the compositions according to the invention, preferably cosmetic products, can be:

a) absorbents

These preferably have the task of absorbing water and / or oil-soluble dissolved or finely divided substances.

b) antimicrobials

These can be added to the products to generally reduce the activities of microorganisms, especially the microorganisms responsible for the formation of acne. These germs include, among others, various species from the group of staphylococci, the group of Corynebacteria, anaerococci and micrococci, in particular Corynebacterium acnes, Corynebacterium granulosum, Propionibacterium acnes, Propionibacterium avidum and Propionibacterium granulosum. Preferred antimicrobial or antimicrobial agents according to the invention are in particular organohalogen compounds and halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, a number of plant extracts and zinc compounds. These include triclosan, chlorhexidine and chlorhexidine gluconate, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, bromochlorophene, dichlorophen, chlorothymol, chloroxylenol, hexachlorophene, dichloro-m-xylenol, dequalinium chloride, domiphenbromide, ammonium phenolsulfonate, benzalkonium halides, benzalkonium cetyl phosphate, benzalkonium saccharinates, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, Laurylpyridinium chloride, laurylisoquinolinium bromide, methylbenzedonium chloride. Furthermore, phenol, phenoxyethanol, disodium dihydroxyethylsulfosuccinylundecylenate, sodium bicarbonate, zinc lactate, sodium phenolsulfonate and zinc phenolsulfonate, ketoglutaric acid, terpene alcohols such as. As farnesol, chlorophyllin copper complexes, α-monoalkyl glycerol ether with a branched or linear saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl, particularly preferably α- (2-ethylhexyl) glycerol ether, commercially available as Sensiva ^® SC 50 (ex Schälke & Mayr), carboxylic acid esters of mono-, di- and triglycerol (eg glycerol monolaurate, diglycerol monocaprinate), lantibiotics and plant extracts (eg green tea and components of lime blossom oil). Further preferred active substances against acne and impure skin are selected from so-called prebiotically active components, which according to the invention are to be understood as meaning those components which inhibit only or at least predominantly the odor-causing germs of the skin microflora, but not the desired ones, that is, the non-odor-forming germs. that belong to a healthy skin microflora. Explicitly here are the active substances, which are in the publications DE 10333245 and DE 10 2004 011 968 are disclosed as being prebiotic effective; these include conifer extracts, in particular from the group of Pinaceae, and plant extracts from the group of Sapindaceae, Araliaceae, Lamiaceae and Saxifragaceae, in particular extracts from Picea spp., Paullinia sp., Panax sp., Lamium album or Ribes nigrum and mixtures of these substances.

c) antiperspirants

These are preferably used in antiperspirants and reduce the sweat delivery. Antiperspirant active ingredients have a pore-astringent action and are therefore frequently used in skin treatment preparations for sebum suppression.

The amounts used for sebum suppression are usually lower than the amounts used for sweat inhibition and are in the range of 0.1-10 wt .-%, preferably 2-3 wt .-%. Preferred agents according to the invention contain - to support the overall performance of the product - at least one astringent antiperspirant active ingredient selected from the water-soluble astringent inorganic and organic salts of aluminum, zirconium and zinc or any mixtures of these salts. Particularly preferred antiperspirant active substances are selected from the aluminum chlorohydrates, in particular the aluminum chlorohydrates having the general formula [Al ₂ (OH) ₅ Cl.2-3H ₂ O] _n , which may be present in unactivated or in activated (depolymerized) form, furthermore aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrex-propylene glycol (PG) or polyethylene glycol (PEG), aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PG or PEG, aluminum PG-dichlorhydrex or aluminum PEG-dichlorhydrex, aluminum hydroxide, furthermore selected from the aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates, such as aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, Aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate glycine complexes such as aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, potassium aluminum sulfate (KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .12H ₂ O, alum ), Aluminum-aluminumoyl-collagen-amino acid, sodium aluminum lactate + aluminum sulfate, sodium aluminum chlorhydroxactate, aluminum bromohydrate, aluminum chloride, the complexes of zinc and sodium salts, the complexes of lanthanum and cerium, the aluminum salts of lipoamino acids, aluminum sulphate, aluminum lactate, aluminum chlorohydrate allantoinate, sodium aluminum chlorhydroxylactate, zinc chloride, zinc sulphocarbolate, Zinc sulfate and zirconium chlorohydrate. According to the invention, water solubility is understood as meaning a solubility of at least 5% by weight at 20 ° C., that is to say amounts of at least 5 g of the antiperspirant active are soluble in 95 g of water at 20 ° C. The antiperspirant active ingredients can be used as an aqueous solution. Preferred anhydrous agents according to the invention preferably contain at least one activated aluminum chlorohydrate, preferably a raw material from the series ^REACH® from Reheis.

d) antifoam agent

These can be added, for. B. to eliminate foam during manufacture or to reduce the tendency of finished products to excessive foaming.

e) binders

They ensure z. B. the cohesion of powdered and powdered cosmetic products.

f) substances of biological origin

These are z. B. certain plant ingredients, eg. B. green tea extract. They are intended to impart certain desired properties to a product which are related to the corresponding biological material, or to further improve existing properties or to suppress undesirable properties or reduce them as much as possible.

g) bleach

These can be z. B. serve to lighten the color of the hair or the skin.

h) chelating agent

These are z. As cosmetic agents added so that they form complexes with metal ions, so as to improve, for example, the storage stability of the compositions of the invention. Particularly preferred as a complex-forming substance is ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its sodium salts, such as those available under the trade name Trilon B from BASF, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and its sodium salts, β-alaninediacetic acid and its salts and phosphonic acids and their salts. The at least one complex-forming substance is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.01-0.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.08-0.2 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

i) deodorant active ingredients,

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one deodorant active ingredient. This may preferably from the aforementioned antimicrobial Be selected active ingredients. Furthermore, it may be preferable to use an active substance which inhibits the enzymes responsible for the sweat decomposition, in particular the arylsulfatase, β-glucuronidase, aminoacylase, esterases, lipases and / or lipoxigenase, for. B. trialkylcitric acid, in particular triethyl citrate, or zinc glycinate. Further preferred deodorant active ingredients are odor absorbers and deodorizing ion exchangers. Silicates serve as odor absorbers, which at the same time advantageously support the rheological properties of the composition according to the invention. Among the silicates which are particularly advantageous according to the invention are, in particular, phyllosilicates and, among these, in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, IIit, beidellite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite and talcum. Further advantageous odor absorbers are, for example, zeolites, Zinkricinoleat, cyclodextrins, certain metal oxides, such as. As alumina, and chlorophyll. They are preferably used in an amount of 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 0.5-7% by weight and most preferably 1-5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

j) Emollients

These have the task of smoothing and smoothing the skin. Preferred compositions according to the invention, which are present as an emulsion, suspension, spray or stick, comprise as emollient at least one oil which is liquid at 20 ° C. and which does not constitute a fragrance component and does not represent an essential oil. Oils preferred according to the invention are selected from branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols, as they are obtainable by the Guerbet reaction. Preferred alcohol oils are Hexyldecanol (Eutanol ^® G 16, Guerbitol ^® T 16) Octyldodecanol (Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 20), 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and the commercial products Guerbitol ^® 18, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb 12 ^{®, ®} Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ^® 24. Further preferred oil components are mixtures of Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol esters, z. , The commercial product Cetiol ^® PGL (hexyldecanol and hexyldecyl laurate. Further according to the invention, preferred emollient oils are selected from the triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C _8-30 fatty acids. Particularly suitable is the use of natural oils, e.g. For example, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil, and the liquid portions of coconut oil, etc. Synthetic triglyceride oils are also suitable Capric / caprylic triglycerides, for example., the commercial products Myritol ^® 318, Myritol ^® 331 (Cognis) or Miglyol ^® 812 (Hüls) using unbranched fatty acid residues as well as glyceryl and the commercial products Estol ^® GTEH 3609 (Uniqema) or Myritol ^® GTEH (Cognis) with branched fatty acid residues te oils are selected from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ -alkanols, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n-butyl / dioctyl sebacate, Diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di- (2-hexyldecyl) succinate. Further oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units of mono- or polyhydric C _8-22 -alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. B. PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether (Witconol APM ^®). Further oil components preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated. These include, hexyldecyl stearate (Eutanol ^® G 16 S), hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® C 24) and 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol ^® 868). Also conditionally suitable are isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl, Isononylstearat, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl, cetearyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl, butyloctanoic-2-butyl octanoate, Diisotridecylacetat, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and dipalmitate. Further oil components preferred according to the invention are selected from the adducts of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units with monohydric or polyhydric C _3-22 alkanols, such as butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. As PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid ^® AP), PPG-9-butyl ether (Breox B25 ^®), PPG-10 butanediol (Macol ^® 57) and PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol ^® E). Further preferred oil components according to the invention are selected from the C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C ₂ -C ₇ hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid. Such esters based on linear C _14/15 alkanols, eg. B. C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl lactate, and branched in the 2-position C _12/13 alkanols can be obtained under the trademark Cosmacol ^® by the company Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co, Hamburg, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol ^® ESI , Cosmacol® ^® EMI and Cosmacol® ^® EIT. Further inventively preferred oil components are selected from the symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, eg. B. glycerin carbonate, Dicaprylylcarbonate (Cetiol ^® CC) or the esters of DE 197 56 454 A1 , Further preferred oil components according to the invention are selected from the esters of dimers of unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C ₂ -C ₁₈ -alkanols or with polyvalent linear or branched C ₂ -C ₆ -alkanols. It may be extraordinarily preferred according to the invention to use mixtures of the abovementioned oils. Further oil components preferred according to the invention are selected from silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils. Silicone oils preferred according to the invention are selected from among dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, such as, for example, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, but also include hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane.

Further inventively preferred silicone oils are selected from volatile silicone oils which may be cyclic, such as. For example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and mixtures thereof, as described for. B. in the commercial products DC 244, 245, 344 and 345 of Dow Corning, or linear, z. As hexamethyldisiloxane (L ₂ ), octamethyltrisiloxane (L ₃ ), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L ₄ ), any two and three mixtures of L ₂ , L ₃ and / or L ₄ , as described, for. B. in the commercial products DC 2-1184, Dow Corning ^® 200 (0, 65 cSt), and Dow Corning ^® 200 (1.5 cSt) from Dow Corning are included. Further inventively preferred silicone oils are selected from non-volatile higher molecular weight linear dimethylpolysiloxanes, commercially available z. Example under the name Dow Corning ^® 190, Dow Corning ^® 200 fluid having viscosities in the range of 5-100 cSt, preferably 5-50 cSt, or even 5-10 cSt, and Baysilon ^® 350 M.

According to the invention preferred natural and synthetic hydrocarbons are selected from paraffinic oils, isohexadecane, isoeicosane, (optionally hydrogenated) polyisobutenes and polydecenes, the ^®, for example, under the designation Emery ^® 3004, 3006, 3010 or under the name Ethylflo ^® from Albemarle or Nexbase 2004G from Nestle are available, as well as 1,3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S). Particularly preferred skin treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that the oil (s) liquid at 20 ° C. in a total amount of 0.1-80% by weight, preferably 2-20% by weight, particularly preferably 3-15 Wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition, is / are included. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, a proportion of the oil components of at least 80% by weight has a refractive index n _D of 1.39-1.51.

It is particularly preferred if 5-40-50 wt .-%, most preferably 10-12-25-30 wt .-% of the oil components has a refractive index n _D of 1.43-1.51, preferably 1.44-1 , 49, more preferably 1.45-1.47-1.485, at 20 ° C (measured at λ = 589 nm). In addition to the oils, that is, the substances which are liquid under normal conditions, solid lipid or wax components can be used as an emollient even under normal conditions. Particularly preferred lipid or wax components are selected from coconut fatty acid glycerol mono-, di- and triesters, Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter) and esters of saturated, monohydric C ₈ -C ₁₈ alcohols with saturated C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ monocarboxylic acids and mixtures thereof Substances contained. These lower melting lipid or wax components allow for consistency optimization of the product and a minimization of the visible residue on the skin. Especially preferred are products sold under the INCI name Cocoglycerides, in particular the commercial products Novata ^® (ex Cognis), particularly preferably Novata AB ^®, a mixture of C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ mono-, di- and triglycerides, which in the range of 30- 32 ° C, as well as the products of the Softisan series (Sasol Germany GmbH) with the INCI name Hydrogenated Cocoglycerides, in particular Softisan 100, 133, 134, 138, 142. Further preferred esters of saturated, monohydric C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ - alcohols with saturated C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ monocarboxylic acids are stearyl laurate, cetearyl (z. B. Crodamol ^® CSS), cetyl palmitate (z. B. Cutina ^® CP) and myristyl myristate (z. B. Cetiol ^® MM).

Emollients preferred according to the invention are furthermore natural vegetable waxes, eg. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, sugarcane wax, ouricoury wax, cork wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as orange waxes, lemon waxes, grapefruit wax, and animal waxes, e.g. Beeswax, shellac wax and spermaceti. For the purposes of the invention, it may be particularly preferred to use hydrogenated or hardened waxes. As a wax component and chemically modified waxes, especially the hard waxes, such as. As montan ester waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and Sasol waxes used. The synthetic waxes which are likewise preferred according to the invention include, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes, C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ -dialkyl esters of dimer acids, C _30-50 -alkyl beeswax and alkyl and alkylaryl esters of dimer fatty acids. A particularly preferred wax component is selected from at least one ester of a saturated, monohydric C ₁₆ -C ₆₀ -alcohol and a saturated C ₈ -C ₃₆ -monocarboxylic acid. According to the invention, lactides, the cyclic double esters of α-hydroxycarboxylic acids of the corresponding chain length, also belong thereto. Esters of fatty acids and long-chain alcohols have proved to be particularly advantageous for the composition of the invention because they the Skin-care agents of the invention provide excellent sensory properties and (for sticks) a high stability. The esters are composed of saturated branched or unbranched monocarboxylic acids and saturated branched or unbranched monohydric alcohols. Esters of aromatic carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids (eg 12-hydroxystearic acid) and saturated branched or unbranched alcohols can also be used according to the invention. It is particularly preferred to choose the wax components from the group of esters of saturated branched or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 12 to 24 carbon atoms and the saturated branched or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 16 to 50 carbon atoms and having a melting point> 50 ° C have. In particular, C _{16-36 alkyl} stearates and C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearates, C _20-40 alkyl erucates and cetearyl behenate may be advantageous as the wax component. The wax or the wax components have a melting point> 50 ° C, preferably> 60 ° C, on. A particularly preferred embodiment of the invention contains as wax component a C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl stearate. This ester is known under the name Kester ^® K82H or Kesterwachs ^® K80H and is sold by Koster Keunen Inc.. It is the synthetic imitation of the monoester fraction of beeswax and is characterized by its hardness, oil gelability and broad compatibility with lipid components. This wax can be used as a stabilizer and consistency regulator for W / O and O / W emulsions. Kester wax has the advantage that it has an excellent oil gelability even at low concentrations and so does not make the pencil mass too heavy and allows a velvety abrasion. A further particularly preferred embodiment of the invention contains as wax component cetearyl behenate, ie mixtures of cetyl behenate and stearyl behenate. This ester is known under the name Kester ^® K62 and is sold by Koster Keunen Inc.. Further preferred lipid or wax components with a melting point> 50 ° C are the triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C _12-30 fatty acids, such as hardened triglyceride fats (hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl tribehenate (tribehenin) or glyceryl tri-12- hydroxystearate, further synthetic Vollester of fatty acids and glycols or polyols containing 2-6 carbon atoms as long as they have a melting point above 50 ° C, for example, preferably C ₁₈ -C ₃₆ Acid Triglyceride (Suncrowax ^® HGL-C). According to the invention hydrogenated castor oil, obtainable, for example, as wax component is available. B. as a commercial product Cutina ^® HR, particularly preferred. Further preferred lipid or wax components with a melting point> 50 ° C are the saturated linear C ₁₄ -C ₃₆ carboxylic acids, in particular myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and behenic acid and mixtures of these compounds, eg. B. Syncrowax ^® AW 1C (C ₁₈ -C ₃₆ fatty acids) or Cutina ^® FS 45 (palmitic and stearic acid).

k) emulsifiers / dispersants

These are surface-active substances which are preferably capable of stably dispersing immiscible liquids such as oil and water or of improving the dispersion of a pulverulent solid in a liquid medium.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention, which are formulated as a water-in-oil emulsion, preferably contain at least one water-in-oil emulsifier.

The at least one water-in-oil emulsifier is preferably in an amount of 0.5-5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1.0-1.5-2.5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of Emulsion, included. A particularly preferred group of water-in-oil emulsifiers according to the invention are the poly (C ₂ -C ₃ ) alkylene glycol-modified silicones whose previous INCI name was Dimethicone Copolyol, with the current INCI names PEG-x Dimethicone (with x = 2-20, preferably 3-17, more preferably 11-12), bis-PEG-y dimethicones (with y = 3-25, preferably 4-20), PEG / PPG a / b dimethicones (where a and b independently of one another represent numbers of 2-30, preferably 3-30 and particularly preferred 12-20, in particular 14-18,), bis-PEG / PPG-c / d dimethicones (where c and d independently of one another represent numbers of 10) 25, preferably 14-20 and more preferably 14-16) and bis-PEG / PPG-e / f PEG / PPG g / h dimethicones (where e, f, g and h independently of one another represent numbers of 10-20, preferably 14-18 and more preferably 16, stand). Particular preference is given to PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicones, which are commercially available in a 1: 9 mixture with cyclomethicone as DC 3225 C or DC 5225 C, PEG / PPG-4/12 dimethicone, sold under the name Abil B 8852 is available as well as Bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 Dimethicone, which is commercially available in a mixture with Cyclomethicone as Abil EM 97 (Goldschmidt), Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 Dimethicone, under the name Abil B 8832 is available, PEG / PPG-5/3 trisiloxanes (Silsoft 305), and PEG / PPG-20/23 dimethicones (Silsoft 430 and Silsoft 440). Further preferred W / O emulsifiers according to the invention are poly (C ₂ -C ₃ ) alkylene glycol-modified silicones which are hydrophobically modified with C ₄ -C ₁₈ -alkyl groups, particularly preferably cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicones (previously: Cetyl dimethicone copolyol, available as Abil EM 90 or in a mixture of polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone and hexyl laurate under the trade name Abil WE 09), furthermore alkyl methicone copolyols and alkyl Dimethicone ethoxy glucosides. The compositions according to the invention which are formulated as an emulsion, in particular as an oil-in-water emulsion or a polyol-in-water emulsion, preferably comprise at least one nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB value of more than 7 These are emulsifiers generally known to the person skilled in the art, as are described, for example, in US Pat Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd ed., 1979, Vol. 8, pp. 913-916 , are listed. For ethoxylated products, the HLB value is calculated according to the formula HLB = (100-L): 5, where L is the weight fraction of the lipophilic groups, that is the fatty alkyl or fatty acyl groups, in the ethylene oxide adducts, expressed in weight percent. In selecting nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers which are suitable according to the invention, it is particularly preferable to use a mixture of nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers in order to optimally adjust the stability of the stick compositions according to the invention. The individual emulsifier components thereby deliver a proportion to the total HLB value or average HLB value of the oil-in-water emulsifier mixture in accordance with their proportion of the total amount of the oil-in-water emulsifiers. According to the invention, the mean HLB value of the oil-in-water emulsifier mixture is 10-19, preferably 12-18 and particularly preferably 14-17. In order to achieve such average HLB values, preference is given to combining oil-in-water emulsifiers from the HLB value ranges 10-14, 14-16 and optionally 16-19. Of course, the oil-in-water emulsifier mixtures may also contain nonionic emulsifiers with HLB values in the range of> 7-10 and 19-20; Such emulsifier mixtures may also be preferred according to the invention. However, in another preferred embodiment, the skin treatment agents of the invention may also contain only a single oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB in the range of 10-19. Preferred skin-treating agents according to the invention are characterized in that the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers are selected from ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkanols with an average of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -carboxylic acids with an average of 10 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, silicone copolyols having ethylene oxide units or with ethylene oxide and propylene oxide units, alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs, ethoxylated sterols, partial esters of polyglycerols having 2 to 10 glycerol units and esterified with 1 to 4, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid residues, provided that they have an HLB value of more than 7, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. The ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ alkanols have the formula R ¹ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n H, where R ¹ is a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the middle Number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers of 10-100, preferably 10-30 moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, Petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. Adducts of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty alcohols having 12-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, are suitable. The ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -carboxylic acids have the formula R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n OH, where R ¹ is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide Units per molecule, for numbers of 10-100, preferably 10-30 moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, cetylic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and brassidic acid and their technical mixtures. Also adducts of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty acids having 12-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty acid, are suitable. Particularly preferred are PEG-50 monostearate, PEG-100 monostearate, PEG-50 monooleate, PEG-100 monooleate, PEG-50 monolaurate and PEG-100 monolaurate. Particular preference is given to using the C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -alkanols or the C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -carboxylic acids with in each case 10-30 units of ethylene oxide per molecule and mixtures of these substances, in particular ceteth-12, ceteth-20, ceteth-30, steareth- 12, Steareth-20, Steareth-30, Laureth-12 and Beheneth-20. Furthermore, preference is given to using C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides. C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides are known, commercially available surfactants and emulsifiers. They are prepared in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8-22 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside radical, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar radical is glycosidically linked to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides having a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8, preferably 1-2, are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, which is based on a homolog distribution typical for such technical products. Products which are obtainable under the trademark Plantacare ^®, a glucosidically bonded C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkyl group containing at an oligoglucoside whose average degree of oligomerization at 1-2, particularly at 1.1-1.4, is located. Particularly preferred C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are selected from octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, palmityl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside and behenyl glucoside and mixtures thereof. The glucamine-derived acylglucamides are also suitable as non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifiers. Ethoxylated sterols, in particular ethoxylated soy sterols, are also suitable oil-in-water according to the invention. Emulsifiers. The degree of ethoxylation must be greater than 5, preferably at least 10, in order to have an HLB value greater than 7. Suitable commercial products are, for. PEG-10 Soy Sterol, PEG-16 Soy Sterol and PEG-25 Soy Sterol. Furthermore, preferably partial esters of polyglycerols with 2 to 10 glycerol units and with 1 to 4 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid esters esterified used, provided that they have an HLB value of more than 7.

Particularly preferred Diglycerinmonocaprylat, Diglycerinmonocaprat, diglycerol, Triglycerinmonocaprylat, Triglycerinmonocaprat, triglycerol, Tetraglycerinmonocaprylat, Tetraglycerinmonocaprat, Tetraglycerinmonolaurat, Pentaglycerinmonocaprylat, Pentaglycerinmonocaprat, Pentaglycerinmonolaurat, Hexaglycerinmonocaprylat, Hexaglycerinmonocaprat, hexa are glycerol, Hexaglycerinmonomyristat, Hexaglycerinmonostearat, Decaglycerinmonocaprylat, Decaglycerinmonocaprat, decaglyceryl monolaurate, decaglyceryl monomyristate, Decaglycerinmonoisostearat, decaglycerol monostearate, Decaglycerinmonooleat, Decaglycerinmonohydroxystearat, Decaglycerindicaprylat, Decaglycerindicaprat, Decaglycerindilaurat, Decaglycerindimyristat, Decaglycerindiisostearat, Decaglycerindistearat, Decaglycerindioleat, Decaglycerindihydroxystearat, Decaglycerintricaprylat, Decaglycerintricaprat, Decaglycerintrilaurat, Decaglycerintrimyristat, Decaglycerintriisostearat, Decaglycerintristearat, Decaglyce rintrioleate and decaglycerol trihydroxystearate.

Particularly preferred skin treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier in a total amount of 0.5-10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-4 wt .-% and exceptionally preferably 1.5-3 wt .-%, based on the total composition. Preferred compositions according to the invention, which are formulated as an emulsion or stick, preferably further comprise at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0, selected from the mono- and diesters of Ethylene glycol and the mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters of pentaerythritol with linear saturated fatty acids having 12-30, in particular 14-22 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, and mixtures thereof, as consistency regulator and / or water binder.

According to the invention, the mono- and diesters are preferred. C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid radicals preferred according to the invention are selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachic acid and behenic acid radicals; particularly preferred is the stearic acid residue. Nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers particularly preferred according to the invention having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 are selected from pentaerythrityl monostearate, pentaerythrityl distearate, pentaerythrityl tristearate, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate and mixtures thereof. According to the invention, particularly preferred water-in-oil emulsifiers having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than / equal to 7.0, for example as commercial products Cutina ^® PES (INCI: Pentaerythrityl distearate), Cutina ^® AGS (INCI: Glycol Distearate) or Cutina ^® EGMS (INCI: glycol stearate) available. These commercial products are already mixtures of mono- and diesters (in the pentaerythrityl esters are also tri- and tetraester contained). According to the invention it may be preferable to use only a single water-in-oil emulsifier. In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise mixtures, in particular technical mixtures, of at least two water-in-oil emulsifiers. A commercial product such as Cutina ^® PES is meant, for example, a technical mixture. In addition to the stated water-in-oil emulsifiers based on the ethylene glycol or pentaerythrityl esters, in a preferred embodiment, at least one further nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7, 0 should be included, the proportion of the total weight of nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers with an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0, but preferably should not be greater than 80%.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain the at least one additional water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 only in a proportion by weight of not more than 10% or are free of additional water -in-oil emulsifiers. Some of these additional suitable emulsifiers are, for example, in Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd Ed., 1979, Vol. 8, page 913 , listed. For ethoxylated adducts, the HLB value, as already mentioned, can also be calculated. Suitable water-in-oil emulsifiers are preferably: linear saturated alkanols having 12-30 carbon atoms, in particular 16-22 carbon atoms, in particular cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl and lanolin or mixtures of these alcohols, as in the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids are obtainable, esters and in particular partial esters of a polyol having 3-6 C-atoms and linear saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 12-30, in particular 14-22 C-atoms, which may be hydroxylated. Such esters or partial esters are, for. As the mono- and diesters of glycerol or monoesters of propylene glycol with linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, in particular those with palmitic and stearic acid, the sorbitan mono-, di- or triesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids, the may be hydroxylated, in particular those of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or mixtures of these fatty acids and the Methylglucosemono- and diesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated; Sterols, ie steroids which carry a hydroxyl group at the C3 atom of the steroid skeleton and both from animal tissue (zoosterols, eg cholesterol, lanosterol) as well as from plants (phytosterols, eg ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol) and from fungi and yeasts (mycosterols) which may be low ethoxylated (1-5 EO); Alkanols and carboxylic acids each having 8-24 C atoms, in particular having 16-22 C atoms, in the alkyl group and 1-4 ethylene oxide units per molecule having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 exhibit; Glycerol monoethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8-30, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms; Partial ester of polyglycerols having n = 2 to 10 glycerol units and esterified with 1 to 5 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid residues, if they have an HLB value of 7 or less, and mixtures of aforementioned substances. According to the invention, it may be preferable to use only a single additional water-in-oil emulsifier. In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise mixtures, in particular technical mixtures, of at least two additional water-in-oil emulsifiers. For example, a commercial product such as Cutina GMS ^® is understood to be a technical mixture, which is a mixture of glyceryl monostearate and glyceryl distearate. Particularly advantageous additional water-in-oil emulsifiers are stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl monostearate, in particular in the form of the commercial products Cutina ^® GMS and Cutina ^® MD (ex Cognis), glyceryl distearate, glyceryl monocaprate, glyceryl monocaprylate, glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monohydroxystearate, glyceryl monooleate , Glycerylmonolanolat, Glyceryldimyristat, Glyceryldipalmitat, glyceryl dioleate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monomyristate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monostearate, Sorbitansesquistearat, sorbitan distearate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sucrose distearate, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), steareth 5, oleth-2, diglycerol monostearate, diglycerol monoisostearate, diglycerol monooleate, diglycerol dihydroxystearate, diglycerol distearate, diglycerol dioleate, triglycerol distearate, tetraglycer inmonostearate, tetraglycerol distearate, tetraglycerol tristearate, decaglycerol pentastearate, decaglycerin pentahydroxystearate, decaglycerol pentaisostearate, decaglycerol pentaoleate, soy sterol, PEG-1 soy sterol, PEG-5 soy sterol, PEG-2 monolaurate and PEG-2 monostearate. Particularly preferred skin-treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that at least one water-in-oil emulsifier is present in a total amount of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-8.0% by weight, and particularly preferably 1-5% by weight. 4 wt .-%, based on the total composition, are included. Furthermore, amounts of 2-3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, according to the invention may also be extremely preferred.

l) emulsion stabilizers

These can further support the process of emulsification (see emulsifiers) and in this way further improve the stability and durability of the product.

m) depilatories and agents with hair growth inhibiting effect.

These serve the preferably selective removal of body hair or the prevention of regrowth of removed, for example shaved or epilated, hair. Preferred substances which inhibit hair growth are, in particular, selected from eflornithine, active ingredient combinations of soy protein hydrolyzate, urea, menthol, salicylic acid and extracts of hypericum perforatum, hamamelis virginiana, arnica montana and the bark of salix alba, as used for example and preferably in the raw material Pilinhib ^® Veg LS 9109 from Laboratoires Sérobiologiques with the INCI declaration "Propylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hypericum Perforatum Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Urea, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Menthol, Salicylic Acid", continues to contain drug combinations from extracts of Epilobium angustifolium, the seeds of Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin, zucchini) and the fruits of Serenoa serrulata, as for example and preferred in the raw materials ARP 100 from Greentech SA / Rahn with the INCI Declaration "Water, Alcohol, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Cuc urbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract "and ARP 100 Huileux (ex Greentech, INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower / Leaf / Stem Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract), are still included Active ingredient combinations of xylitol and extracts of Citrus Medica Limonum (lemon) Fruit, Carica papaya (papaya) and olive leaves, as for example and preferably in the raw material Xyleine from Impag / Seporga with the INCI declaration "Xylitol and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract and Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract and Olea europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract "include active ingredient combinations of Humulus Lupulus, Viscum Album, Salvia Officinalis, Carica Papaya and Thuya Occidentalis, such as and preferably contained in the plantafluid complex AH Plantapharm the INCI declaration "Aqua, Propylene Glycol, Humulus Lupulus, Viscum Album, Salvia Officinalis, Carica Papaya, Thuya Occidentalis", as well as extracts of Larrea divaricata, as for example and preferred in the commodity Capislow of Sederma, which contains lecithin vesicles with a hydroglycolic extract of Larrea divaricata. Further preferred hair growth inhibiting active substances are selected from substances which inhibit the protein tyrosine kinase, in particular from lavendustine A, erbstatin, tyrphostin, piceatannol, 4-hydroxybenxylidenmalononitrile, 3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzylidenemalononitrile, cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -cinnamonitrile, α-cyano- (3,4,5-trihydroxy) cinnamonitrile, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) cinnamide, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) thiocinnamide , 2-Amino-4- (4'-hydroxyphenyl) -1,1,3-tricyanobuta-1,3-diene, 2-amino-4- (3,4,5'-trihydroxyphenyl) -1,1,3 tricyanobuta-1,3-diene, 2-amino-4- (1H-alpha-indol-5-yl) -1,1,3-tricyanobuta-1,3-diene, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxy-5 - (benzothiazolylthiomethyl) benzylidenecyanoacetamide, 4-amino-N- (2,5-dihydroxybenzyl) -methylbenzoate, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -cinnamonitrile, 4- (3-chloroanilino) -6,7-dimethoxy-quinazoline, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -N-benzylcinnamide, (-) - RN- (α-methylbenzyl) -3,4-dihydroxybenzylidenecyanoacetamide, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -N- (3 -phenylpropyl) -cinnamide, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy ) -N-phenylcinnamide, α-cyano - (+) - (S) -N- (alpha-phenethyl) - (3,4-dihydroxy) cinnamide, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -N- ( phenylbutyl) cinnamide, herbimycin A, thiazolidinedione, phenazocine, 2,3-dihydro-2-thioxo-1H-indole-3-alkanoic acids, 2,2'-dithiobis (1H-indole-3-alkanoic acids), sulfonylbenzoylnitrostyrene, methyl caffeate, HNMPA (AM) ₃ (tris-acetoxymethyl hydroxy-2-naphthalenylmethylphosphonic acid) and N-acetyl-Asp-Tyr- (2-malonyl) -Val-Pro-Met-Leu-NH ₂ . Further preferred hair growth inhibiting agents are selected from those in WO 2006/130330 A2 disclosed substances, namely agonists of the farnesoid X receptor, preferably selected from bile acids, in particular lithocholic acid, cholic acid, deoxycholic acid, chenodeoxycholic acid, ursodeoxycholic acid and 6-alpha-ethylchenodeoxycholic acid, furthermore from farnesoids, in particular farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2 , 6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol), farnesal, farnesyl acetate, 3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatriene-1-carboxylic acid, methyl farnesyl ether, methyl farnesoate, ethyl farnesyl ether, ethyl farnesoate, furthermore from 7-methyl- Methyl 9- (3,3-dimethyloxivanyl) -3-methyl-2,6-nonadienoate (juvenile hormone III), 7-methyl-9- (3,3-dimethyloxivanyl) -3-methyl-2,6-nonadienoic acid, 3 alpha, 7-alpha-dihydroxy-6-alpha-ethyl-5p-cholan-24-acid, 7-alpha-dihydroxy-6-alpha-propyl-5p-cholan-24-acid, 7-alpha-dihydroxy-6- alpha-allyl-5p-cholan-24-acid, N- (2,2,2-trifluoroethyl) -N- [4- [2,2,2-trifluoro-1-hydroxy-1- (trifluoromethyl) -ethyl] phenyl] -benzenesulfonanilide, 3- [2- [2-chloro-4- [3- (2,6-dichlorophenyl) -5- (1-methylethyl) -4-isoxazolyl] -methoxy] -phenylethenyl] benzoic acid, [3,5-bis (1,1-dimethylethyl) -4-hydroxyphenyl] ethenylidene] bisphosphonic acid tetraethyl ester, [2- [3, 5-bis (1,1-dimethylethyl) -4-hydroxyphenyl] ethylidene] bisphosphonic acid tetrakis (1-methylethyl) ester, [2- [3,5-bis (1,1-dimethylethyl) -4-hydroxyphenyl] ethylidene] bisphosphonic acid tetraethyl ester and [3,5-bis (1,1-dimethylethyl-4-hydroxyphenyl] ethenylidene ester] bisphosphonsäuretetrakis (1-methylethyl). Preferred compositions according to the invention contain at least one hair growth inhibiting substance in a total amount of 0.0001-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001-2 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01-1 wt .-%, and most preferably 0, 1-0.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the active substance of the hair growth inhibiting active substance / e and the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

n) moisturizer

These can contribute to the maintenance or restoration of skin moisture and counteract the drying of the skin. In addition to the emollients mentioned above, water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanols with 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or water-soluble polyethylene glycols with 3-20 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof are suitable for this purpose. Preferably, these components are selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1,2- Pentanediol and 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1,6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Suitable water-soluble polyethylene glycols are selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof, with PEG-3 to PEG-8 being preferred. Also sugars and certain sugar derivatives such as fucose, rhamnose, fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, inositol, sucrose, trehalose and xylose are suitable according to the invention. Preferred skin-treating agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol with 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol with 3-20 ethylene oxide units is selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2- Methyl 1,3-propanediol, glycerin, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1,2-pentanediol and 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1,6-butanediol Hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Particularly preferred skin treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol with 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol with 3-20 ethylene oxide units in total in amounts of 3-30% by weight. %, preferably 8-25 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10-18 wt .-%, each based on the total composition is included.

o) film former

These are capable of producing a protective, stabilizing film on surfaces, preferably skin, hair or nails. With regard to the agents according to the invention, this film preferably has a moisture-storing effect. Preferred moisture-film formers are selected from polysaccharides which contain at least one deoxy-block, particularly preferably from the commercial products Fucogel ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-1) from Solabia, Rhamnosoft ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2) from Solabia, Fucogenol ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-3) of Solabia and Glycofilm ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-4) of Solabia, furthermore mixtures of the aforementioned polysaccharides containing at least one deoxy sugar building block, for example the mixture of biosaccharides Gum-2 and biosaccharides Gum-3, available as a commercial product Elastinol plus ^® from Solabia, glycosaminoglycans, more preferably hyaluronic acid, dextran, dextran sulfate, chondroitin 4-sulfate and chondroitin 6-sulfate.

p) dyes

These are added to cosmetic products to produce a product coloration,

q) preservatives

These are added to cosmetic products to protect them from the harmful effects of microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, yeasts) and thus to prevent their spoilage. Many preservatives inevitably have deodorizing properties, as they also have antimicrobial effects against odor causing bacteria, so that some substances belong to both groups. Benzoic acid and its derivatives (for example propyl, phenyl and butyl benzoate, ammonium, sodium, potassium and magnesium benzoate), propionic acid and derivatives thereof (for example ammonium, sodium and potassium) are particularly suitable as preservatives for cosmetics. , Potassium and magnesium propionate), salicylic acid and its derivatives (eg sodium, potassium and magnesium salicylate), 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its esters and alkali metal salts (eg methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl). , Butyl, isobutyl, isodecyl, phenyl, phenoxyethyl and benzylparaben, hexamidineparaben and -diparaben, sodium and potassiumparaben, sodium and potassium methylparaben, potassiumbutylparaben, sodium and potassiumpropylparaben), alcohols and their salts (e.g. Ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, phenol, potassium phenolate, phenoxyethanol, phenoxyisopropanol, o-phenylphenol), guaiacol and its derivatives, chlorhexidine and its derivatives (eg chlorhexidine diacetate, digluconate, and dihydro chloride), hydantoin and its derivatives (e.g. DEDM and DMDM hydantoin, DEDM-hydantoindilaurate), urea and urea derivatives (eg diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea), ferulic acid and its derivatives (eg ethyl ferulate), sorbic acid and its derivatives (eg isopropyl sorbate, TEA sorbate, sodium, potassium, and magnesium sorbate), isothiazole and oxazole derivatives (e.g., methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, dimethyloxazolidine), quaternary ammonium compounds (e.g., Polyquaternium-42, Quaternium-8, Quaternium-14, Quaternium -15), carbamates (e.g., iodopropynyl butylcarbamate), formaldehyde and sodium formate, glutaraldehyde, glyoxal, hexamidine, dehydroacetic acid, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, isopropylcresol, methyldibromo-glutaronitrile, polyaminopropyl biguanide, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, sodium phenolsulfonate, triclocarban , Triclosan, zinc pyrithione and various peptide antibiotics (eg nisin). Preservatives preferred according to the invention are phenoxyethanol, the esters of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl and isobutylparaben and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate. The amount of preservatives in the preferred compositions of the present invention is 0.001-10 wt.%, Preferably 0.01-5 wt.%, And more preferably 0.1-3 wt.%, Based on the total weight of the composition.

r) corrosion inhibitor

These can be z. B. serve to prevent the corrosion of the package z. As a cosmetic agent or to prevent the corrosion of parts that otherwise come into contact with the agent.

s) Skin cooling agents

Compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention furthermore preferably contain at least one skin-cooling active substance. Skin-cooling active ingredients suitable according to the invention are, for example, menthol, isopulegol and menthol derivatives, eg. Menthyl lactate, menthyl glycolate, menthyl pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, menthyl methyl ether, menthoxypropanediol, menthone glycerol acetal (9-methyl-6- (1-methylethyl) -1,4-dioxaspiro (4.5) decane-2-methanol), monomethyl succinate and 2-hydroxymethyl-3,5 , 5-trimethylcyclohexanol. Preferred skin-cooling active ingredients are menthol, isopulegol, menthyl lactate, menthoxypropanediol and menthylpyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, and mixtures of these substances, in particular mixtures of menthol and menthyl lactate, menthol, menthol glycolate and menthyl lactate, menthol and menthoxypropanediol or menthol and isopulegol. It is particularly preferred according to the invention for at least one skin-cooling active substance to be present in a total amount of 0.01-1% by weight, more preferably 0.02-0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.05-0.2% by weight. %, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.

t) pH controller / buffer substances

These can be z. B. in cosmetics serve to adjust or stabilize a desired pH.

u) surfactants / wash-active substances

These are surface-active compounds which serve cleaning purposes or else the better washability of the agents according to the invention.

v) propellant gases

These are gaseous substances with which the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be placed under pressure in pressure-resistant containers in order to produce the contents when the pressure is relieved. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention, which are formulated as a propellant-driven aerosol, contain at least one propellant. Preferred propellants (propellants) are propane, propene, n-butane, isobutane, isobutene, n-pentane, pentene, isopentane, isopentene, methane, ethane, dimethyl ether, nitrogen, air, oxygen, nitrous oxide, 1,1,1,3-tetrafluoroethane, heptafluoro-n-propane, perfluoroethane, monochlorodifluoromethane, 1,1-difluoroethane, both individually and in combination. Also hydrophilic propellants, such. As carbon dioxide, can be used advantageously in the context of the present invention, when the proportion of hydrophilic gases is selected low and lipophilic propellant gas (eg., Propane / butane) is present in excess.

Particularly preferred are propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures of these propellants.

It has been found that the use of n-butane as the only propellant gas according to the invention can be particularly preferred. The amount of blowing agent is preferably 20-80 wt .-%, more preferably 30-70 wt .-% and most preferably 40-50 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparation consisting of the composition of the invention and the blowing agent

w) opacifiers

These may preferably be added to transparent or translucent products to make them more impervious to visible light or near-infrared radiation. This may be useful for protecting the photocatalytic agent during storage in transparent or translucent containers, where appropriate; the layer thickness later applied to the skin is so low that the addition of a clouding agent does not affect the effectiveness of the photocatalytic agent.

x) UV absorber / light filter substances

They are able to filter certain UV rays and can in this way, for. B. protect the skin from premature, light-induced aging and sunburn. UV absorbers can also be used in small quantities as product protection.

y) denaturant

These are added to cosmetics containing ethanol to make them inedible.

z) viscosity regulator

These are able to increase or decrease the viscosity of a product.

The aforementioned ingredients may be contained according to further preferred embodiments as the sole additive or in any combination in the inventive compositions.

In the following, some particularly preferred substances are described in more detail - reference being made predominantly to skin treatment compositions according to the invention.

Of course, the substances mentioned may also be included in hair treatment compositions, other cosmetic agents or the aforementioned non-cosmetic agents such as fabric softeners or toilet cleaners. In this respect, the term "skin treatment agent" used below is not to be understood as limiting.

In the following, preferred ingredients of the inventive compositions are described in more detail.

Anionic surfactants are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention. As anionic surfactants, for example, those of the sulfonate type and sulfates are used. The surfactants of the sulfonate type are preferably C _9-13 -alkylbenzenesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, ie mixtures of alkene and hydroxyalkanesulfonates and disulfonates, as are obtained, for example, from C _12-18 -monoolefins having terminal or internal double bonds by sulfonation with gaseous sulfur trioxide and subsequent alkaline or acid hydrolysis of the sulfonation products into consideration. Also suitable are alkanesulfonates which are obtained from C _12-18 alkanes, for example by sulfochlorination or sulfoxidation with subsequent hydrolysis or neutralization. Likewise, the esters of α-sulfo fatty acids (ester sulfonates), z. As the α-sulfonated methyl esters of hydrogenated coconut, palm kernel or tallow fatty acids suitable.

Further suitable anionic surfactants are sulfated fatty acid glycerol esters. Fatty acid glycerol esters are to be understood as meaning the mono-, di- and triesters and mixtures thereof, as obtained in the preparation by esterification of a monoglycerol with 1 to 3 moles of fatty acid or in the transesterification of triglycerides with 0.3 to 2 moles of glycerol. Preferred sulfated fatty acid glycerol esters are the sulfonation products of saturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, for example caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid.

Alk (en) ylsulfates are the alkali metal salts and in particular the sodium salts of the sulfuric monoesters of C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohols, for example coconut fatty alcohol, tallow fatty alcohol, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl alcohol or the C ₁₀ -C ₂₀ oxo alcohols and those half-esters of secondary alcohols of these chain lengths are preferred. Also preferred are alk (en) ylsulfates of said chain length, which contain a synthetic, produced on a petrochemical basis straight-chain alkyl radical, which have an analogous degradation behavior as the adequate compounds based on oleochemical raw materials. Of washing technology interest, the C ₁₂ -C ₁₆ alkyl sulfates and C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl sulfates and C ₁₄ -C ₁₅ alkyl sulfates are preferred. 2,3-alkyl sulfates can be obtained as commercial products from Shell Oil Company under the name DAN ^®, are suitable anionic surfactants.

The sulfuric acid monoesters of straight-chain or branched C _7-21 -alcohols ethoxylated with from 1 to 6 mol of ethylene oxide, such as 2-methyl-branched C _9-11- alcohols having on average 3.5 mol of ethylene oxide (EO) or C _12-18 . Fatty alcohols with 1 to 4 EO are suitable. Due to their high foaming behavior, they are preferably used only in relatively small amounts, for example in amounts of from 1 to 5% by weight, in detergents in particular.

The agents according to the invention may preferably be free of sulfuric acid monoester.

Another class of anionic surfactants is the class of ether carboxylic acids obtainable by the reaction of fatty alcohol ethoxylates with sodium chloroacetate in the presence of basic catalysts. They have the general formula: R ¹⁰ O- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _p -CH ₂ -COOH with R ¹⁰ = C ₁ -C ₁₈ and p = 0.1 to 20. Ethercarboxylic acids are water hardness insensitive and have excellent surfactant properties on.

Suitable anionic surfactants are, for example, the partial esters of di- or polyhydroxyalkanes, mono- and disaccharides, polyethylene glycols with the EO adducts of maleic anhydride to at least monounsaturated carboxylic acids having a chain length of 10 to 25 carbon atoms with an acid number of 10 to 140.

In addition to an unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, acyclic or cyclic, optionally alkoxylated alkyl radical, preferred anionic surfactants have 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 20, in particular 8 to 18, particularly preferably 10 to 16, most preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms, two or more anionic, in particular two, acid groups, preferably carboxylate, sulfonate and / or sulfate groups, in particular a carboxylate and a sulfate group on. Examples of these compounds are the alpha sulfo fatty acid salts, the acyl glutamates, the monoglyceride disulfates and the alkyl ethers of the glycerol disulfate, and in particular the monoester sulfosuccinates described below.

Particularly preferred anionic surfactants are the sulfosuccinates, sulfosuccinamates and sulfosuccinamics, especially sulfosuccinates and sulfosuccinamates, most preferably sulfosuccinates. The sulfosuccinates are the salts of the mono- and di-esters of sulfosuccinic acid HOOCCH (SO ₃ H) CH ₂ COOH, while the sulfosuccinamates are the salts of the monoamides of sulfosuccinic acid and the sulfosuccinamides are the salts of the diamides of sulfosuccinic acid ,

The salts are preferably alkali metal salts, ammonium salts and mono-, di- or trialkanolammonium salts, for example mono-, di- or triethanolammonium salts, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium or ammonium salts, particularly preferably sodium or ammonium salts , most preferably sodium salts.

In the sulfosuccinates, one or both carboxyl groups of the sulfosuccinic acid is preferably with one or two identical or different unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated, acyclic or cyclic, optionally alkoxylated alcohols having 4 to 22, preferably 6 to 20, in particular 8 to 18 , more preferably 10 to 16, most preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms esterified. Particularly preferred are the esters of unbranched and / or saturated and / or acyclic and / or alkoxylated alcohols, in particular unbranched, saturated fatty alcohols and / or unbranched, saturated, with ethylene and / or propylene oxide, preferably ethylene oxide, alkoxylated fatty alcohols having a degree of alkoxylation of 1 to 20, preferably 1 to 15, in particular 1 to 10, more preferably 1 to 6, most preferably 1 to 4. The monoesters are preferred in the context of the present invention over the diesters. A particularly preferred sulfosuccinate is Sulfobernsteinsäurelaurylpolyglycolester-di-sodium salt (lauryl EO sulfosuccinate, di-sodium salt; INCI Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate), for example, as Tego ^® sulfosuccinate F 30 (Goldschmidt) with a sulfosuccinate of 30 parts by weight % is commercially available.

In the sulfosuccinamates or sulfosuccinamides, one or both form carboxyl groups of the sulfosuccinic acid preferably with a primary or secondary amine having one or two identical or different, unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated, acyclic or cyclic, optionally alkoxylated alkyl radicals having 4 to 22 , preferably 6 to 20, in particular 8 to 18, more preferably 10 to 16, most preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms carries, a carboxylic acid amide. Particular preference is given to unbranched and / or saturated and / or acyclic alkyl radicals, in particular unbranched, saturated fatty alkyl radicals.

Also suitable are, for example, the following sulfosuccinates and sulfosuccinamates designated according to INCI: ammonium dinonyl sulfosuccinates, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinates, diammonium dimethicone copolyol sulfosuccinates, diammonium lauramido-MEA sulfosuccinates, diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinates, diammonium oleamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Diamyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dicapryl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dicyclohexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Diheptyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dihexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Diisobutyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cetearyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cocamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cocamido Glucoside Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cocoyl Butyl Gluceth-10 sulfosuccinates, disodium C12-15 pareth sulfosuccinates, disodium deceth-5 sulfosuccinates, disodium deceth-6 sulfosuccinates, disodium dihydroxyethyl sulfosuccinyl undecylenates, disodium dimethi Disodium Isostearamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Isostearamido MIPA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Isostearyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laneth-5 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Lauramido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Lauramido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Lauramido PEG-5 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laureth-6 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laureth-9 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laureth-12 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Myristamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Nonoxynol-10 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Oleamido MEA -Sulfosuccinates, Disodium Oleamido MIPA Sulfosuccinates, Disodium Oleamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinates, Disodium Oleth-3 Sulfosuccinates, Disodium Oleyl Sulfosuccinates, Disodium Palmitamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinates, Disodium Palmitoleamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinates, Disodium PEG-4 Cocamido MIPA Sulfosuccinates, Disodium PEG-5 Lauryl Citrate Sulfosuccinate, Disodium PEG-8 Palm Glycerides Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Ricinoleamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Sitostereth-14 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Stearamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Stearyl Sulfosuccinamate, Disodium Stearyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Tallamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Tallowamido MEA Sulfosuccinates, disodium tallow sulfosuccinamates , Disodium Tridecyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Undecylenamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Undecylenamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Wheat Germamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Wheat Germamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Di-TEA Oleamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Ditridecyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Bisglycol Ricinosulfosuccinate, Sodium / MEA Laureth-2 Sulfosuccinate and Tetrasodium Dicarboxyethyl Stearyl Sulfosuccinamate. Yet another suitable sulfosuccinamate is disodium C _16-18 alkoxypropylene sulfosuccinamate.

Another suitable class of compounds are anionic surfactant-cation complexes, the cation itself initially having surfactant properties. Examples are transesterification products of LAS acid with amines, amine derivatives containing a C chain with> 2 C atoms, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₁₆ . These can be z. B. be oxidized on nitrogen, ie, for example, transesterification of LAS acid with amine oxide C _12-14 .

The content of anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention, preferably of the anionic surfactants mentioned, can vary within wide ranges, depending on the purpose of the agent in question. Thus, an agent according to the invention can contain very large amounts of anionic surfactant, preferably up to an order of magnitude of up to 40, 50 or 60% by weight or more. Likewise, an agent according to the invention may contain only very small amounts of anionic surfactant, for example less than 15 or 10% by weight or less than 5% by weight or even less. However, anionic surfactants are advantageously present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 40% by weight and in particular from 5 to 30% by weight, with concentrations above 10% by weight and even above 15% by weight being particular Find favor. According to a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains anionic surfactants, preferably in amounts of at least 0.01% by weight, based on the total agent. In another preferred embodiment, the agent of the invention may be free of anionic surfactant.

In addition to the anionic surfactants mentioned, but also independently of these, soaps may be present in the compositions according to the invention. Particularly suitable are saturated fatty acid soaps, such as the salts of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, hydrogenated erucic acid and behenic acid and in particular from natural fatty acids, for. Coconut, palm kernel or tallow fatty acids, derived soap mixtures. The content of the composition of soaps, independently of other anionic surfactants, is preferably not more than 3% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total agent. According to another preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is free of soap.

The anionic surfactants and soaps may be in the form of their sodium, potassium or ammonium salts and as soluble salts of organic bases, such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine. Preferably, they are in the form of their sodium or potassium salts, especially in the form of the sodium salts. Anionic surfactants and soaps may also be prepared in situ by incorporating into the spray-dried composition the anionic surfactant acids and optionally fatty acids which are then neutralized by the alkali carriers in the spray-dried composition.

Advantageously, nonionic surfactants may also be included in the compositions of the invention, both in solid and in liquid compositions. For example, their content may be up to 2 or 3 or 5 wt .-%. It may also contain larger amounts of nonionic surfactant, for example up to 5 wt .-% or 10 wt .-% or 15 wt .-% or 20 wt .-%, 30 wt .-%, 40 wt .-%, 50% by weight or even beyond, if appropriate.

Useful lower limits may be at values of 0.01, 0.1, 1, 2, 3 or 4 wt .-%.

Preferably, however, the nonionic surfactants are in relatively large amounts, ie up to 50% by weight, advantageously from 0.1 to 40% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 30 and in particular from 2 to 25% by weight, in each case based on the total agent included. According to a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention comprises nonionic surfactants, preferably in amounts of at least 0.1% by weight, based on the total mean. According to another preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention may be free from nonionic surfactant.

Advantageously, all known from the prior art nonionic surfactants may be included in the inventive compositions. Preferred nonionic surfactants are presented below.

The skin treatment compositions according to the invention may preferably also contain at least one cationic surfactant. Suitable cationic surfactants are, for example, surface-active quaternary compounds, in particular having an ammonium, sulfonium, phosphonium, iodonium or arsonium group. Through the use of quaternary surface-active compounds with antimicrobial action, the agent can be designed with an antimicrobial effect or its possibly existing antimicrobial effect due to other ingredients can be improved.

Particularly preferred cationic surfactants are the quaternary, z. T. antimicrobial ammonium compounds (QAV, INCI Quaternary Ammonium Compounds) according to the general formula (R ^I ) (R ^II ) (R ^III ) (R ^IV ) N ⁺ X ^- , in which R ^I to R ^IV identical or different C _{1 -22-} alkyl radicals C _7-28 -Aralkyl radicals or heterocyclic radicals, wherein two or in the case of an aromatic inclusion as in the pyridine even three radicals together with the nitrogen atom, the heterocycle, z. A pyridinium or imidazolinium compound, and X ^{- are} halide ions, sulfate ions, hydroxide ions or like anions. For optimum antimicrobial activity, preferably at least one of the radicals has a chain length of 8 to 18, in particular 12 to 16, carbon atoms.

QACs are by reacting tertiary amines with alkylating agents, such as. As methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, but also ethylene oxide produced. The alkylation of tertiary amines with a long alkyl radical and two methyl groups succeeds particularly easily, and the quaternization of tertiary amines with two long radicals and one methyl group can be carried out with the aid of methyl chloride under mild conditions. Amines having three long alkyl radicals or hydroxy-substituted alkyl radicals are less reactive and are preferably quaternized with dimethyl sulfate.

Suitable QACs are, for example, benzalkonium chloride (N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylbenzylammonium chloride, CAS No. 8001-54-5), benzalkone B (m, p-dichlorobenzyl-dimethyl-C ₁₂ -alkylammonium chloride, CAS No. 58390 -78-6), benzoxonium chloride (benzyldodecyl-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride), cetrimonium bromide (N-hexadecyl-N, N-trimethylammonium bromide, CAS No. 57-09-0), benzetonium chloride (N, N Dimethyl N- [2- [2- [p- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenoxy] ethoxy] ethyl] benzylammonium chloride, CAS No. 121-54-0), dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides such as N-decyl-dimethyl ammonium chloride (CAS No. 7173-51-5-5), didecyldimethyl ammonium bromide (CAS No. 2390-68-3), dioctyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, 1-cetyl pyridinium chloride (CAS No. 123-03-5 ) and thiazoline iodide (CAS No. 15764-48-1) and mixtures thereof. Preferred QACs are the benzalkonium chlorides having C ₈ -C ₁₈ -alkyl radicals, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ -alkyl-benzyl-dimethylammonium chloride. A particularly preferred QAC Kokospentaethoxymethylammoniummethosulfat (INCI PEG-5 Cocomonium Methosulfate; Rewoquat CPEM ^®).

In order to avoid possible incompatibilities of the antimicrobial cationic surfactants with anionic surfactants contained in the agent according to the invention anionic surfactant compatible and / or optionally cationic surfactant are preferably used or omitted in a particular embodiment of the invention entirely on cationic surfactants.

Further below, in particular in connection with conditioning agents and plasticizers, further cationic surfactants, including quaternary ammonium compounds, are described. These too may preferably be contained in the agents according to the invention.

The skin-treating agents of the invention may contain one or more cationic surfactants, advantageously in amounts, based on the total composition, of from 0 to 30% by weight, more preferably greater than 0 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight. , in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-%. Suitable minimum values may also be 0.5, 1, 2 or 3 wt .-%. According to a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains cationic surfactants, preferably in amounts of at least 0.1% by weight, based on the total agent. According to another preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention may be free of cationic surfactant.

Likewise, the skin treatment compositions according to the invention may also contain at least one amphoteric surfactant. These are described in more detail below, in particular in connection with conditioning agents and plasticizers.

The skin treatment compositions of the invention may contain one or more amphoteric surfactants, advantageously in amounts, based on the total composition, of from 0 to 30% by weight, more preferably greater than 0 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight. , in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-%. In another preferred embodiment, the agent of the invention may be free of amphoteric surfactants.

According to a particular embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain only very little total surfactant, eg. For example, the total amount of surfactant can be less than 20% by weight, 15% by weight, 10% by weight or 5% by weight, advantageously even less than 3% by weight or less than 1% by weight, in particular even less than 0 , 5 wt .-% or less than 0.1 wt .-%, wt .-% in each case based on the total agent. However, the total surfactant content is preferably at least 0.01% by weight, 0.1% by weight or 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Soluble complexing agents may preferably be used in amounts of from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 25% by weight and particularly preferably from 10% by weight to 20% by weight, of the composition according to the invention. , based on the total weight of the agent, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and its sodium salts being particularly preferred as soluble complexing agents. However, it can also be advantageously provided that the agent according to the invention contains less than 10% by weight, for example less than 5% by weight, of soluble complexing agents. Suitable examples are citrates, SKS-6, citric acid, MGDA (methyl glycine di-acetic acid), triphosphates, phosphonates, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (eg adipic, glutaric, succinic acid).

In another preferred embodiment, the agent of the invention may be free of soluble complexing agents.

Further suitable organic complexing agents are dextrins, for example oligomers or polymers of carbohydrates, which can be obtained by partial hydrolysis of starches. The hydrolysis can be carried out by customary, for example acid or enzyme catalyzed processes. Preferably, it is hydrolysis products having average molecular weights in the range of 400 to 500,000 g / mol. In this case, a polysaccharide with a dextrose equivalent (DE) in the range from 0.5 to 40, in particular from 2 to 30 is preferred, DE being a common measure of the reducing action of a polysaccharide compared to dextrose, which has a DE of 100 , is. Both maltodextrins with a DE of between 3 and 20 and dry glucose syrups with a DE of between 20 and 37 and also so-called yellow dextrins and white dextrins with relatively high molecular weights in the range from 2000 to 30 000 g / mol are useful. A preferred dextrin is in the British Patent Application 94 19 091 described. The oxidized derivatives of such dextrins are their reaction products with oxidizing agents which are capable of oxidizing at least one alcohol function of the saccharide ring to the carboxylic acid function.

Oxydisuccinates and other derivatives of disuccinates, preferably ethylenediamine disuccinate, are other suitable co-builders. In this case, ethylenediamine-N, N'-disuccinate (EDDS) is preferably used in the form of its sodium or magnesium salts. Also preferred in this context are glycerol disuccinates and glycerol trisuccinates.

Suitable amounts are, for example, 3 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

Further useful organic co-complexing agents are, for example, acetylated hydroxycarboxylic acids or salts thereof, which may optionally also be present in lactone form and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group and a maximum of two acid groups.

Another substance class with co-complexing properties are the phosphonates.

These are in particular hydroxyalkane or aminoalkanephosphonates. Among the hydroxyalkane phosphonates, 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonate (HEDP) is of particular importance as a co-complexing agent. It is preferably used as the sodium salt, the disodium salt neutral and the tetrasodium salt alkaline (pH 9). Preferred aminoalkanephosphonates are ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonate (EDTMP), diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonate (DTPMP) and their higher homologs. They are preferably in the form of neutral sodium salts, eg. B. as the hexasodium salt of EDTMP or as hepta- and octa-sodium salt of DTPMP used. As a builder will from the class of phosphonates preferred HEDP used. The aminoalkanephosphonates also have a pronounced heavy metal binding capacity. Accordingly, in particular if the agents also contain bleach, it may be preferable to use aminoalkanephosphonates, in particular DTPMP, or to use mixtures of the phosphonates mentioned.

Preferred organic complexing agents are, for example, the polycarboxylic acids which can be used in the form of their alkali metal salts and, in particular, sodium salts, such as citric acid, adipic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, tartaric acid, sugar acids, aminocarboxylic acids, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), if such use is not objectionable for ecological reasons, and Mixtures of these. Preferred salts are the salts of polycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, adipic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, tartaric acid, sugar acids and mixtures thereof. The acids themselves can also be used. In addition to their complexing action, the acids typically also have the property of an acidifying component and thus also serve to establish a lower and milder pH of preferred skin-treatment agents according to the invention. In particular, citric acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, gluconic acid and any desired mixtures of these can be mentioned here.

Chelating agents (INCI), also called sequestering agents, are ingredients that are capable of complexing and inactivating metal ions, for example, to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of the agents, for example clouding. On the one hand, it is important to complex the incompatible with numerous ingredients calcium and magnesium ions of water hardness. The complexation of the ions of heavy metals such as iron or copper retards the oxidative decomposition of the finished agents.

For example, the following complexing agents designated according to INCI are suitable: Aminotrimethylene Phosphonic Acid, Beta-Alanine Diacetic Acid, Calcium Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Cyclodextrin, Cyclohexanediamine Tetraacetic Acid, Diammonium Citrate, Diammonium EDTA, Diethylenetriamine Pentamethylene Phosphonic Acid, Dipotassium EDTA, Disodium Azacycloheptane Diphosphonate, Disodium EDTA, Disodium Pyrophosphate, EDTA, Etidronic Acid, Galactic Acid, Gluconic Acid, Glucuronic Acid, HEDTA, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Methyl Cyclodextrin, Pentapotassium Triphosphate, Pentasodium Aminotrimethylene Phosphonate, Pentasodium Ethylene Diamines Tetramethylene Phosphonates, Pentasodium Pentetates, Pentasodium Triphosphates, Pentetic Acid, Phytic Acid, Potassium Citrate, Potassium EDTMP, Potassium Gluconates, Potassium Polyphosphates, Potassium Trisphosphonomethylamine Oxides, Ribonic Acid, Sodiu m Chitosan Methylene Phosphonates, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Diethylenetriamine Pentamethylene Phosphonates, Sodium Dihydroxyethylglycinate, Sodium EDTMP, Sodium Gluceptate, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Glycereth-1 Polyphosphate, Sodium Hexametaphosphate, Sodium Metaphosphate, Sodium Metasilicate, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Polydimethylglycinophenolsulfonate, Sodium Trimetaphosphate, TEA -EDTA, TEA Polyphosphate, Tetrahydroxyethyl Ethylenediamine, Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine, Tetrapotassium Etidronate, Tetrapotassium Pyrophosphate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Tetrasodium Pyrophosphate, Tripotassium EDTA, Trisodium Dicarboxymethyl Alaninate, Trisodium EDTA, Trisodium HEDTA, Trisodium NTA and Trisodium Phosphate.

Preferred complexing agents are tertiary amines, in particular tertiary alkanolamines (amino alcohols). The alkanolamines have both amino and hydroxy and / or ether groups as functional groups. Particularly preferred tertiary alkanolamines are triethanolamine and tetra-2-hydroxypropyl-ethylenediamine (N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis- (2-hydroxy-propyl) -ethylenediamine). Particularly preferred combinations of tertiary amines with Zinkricinoleat and one or more ethoxylated fatty alcohols as nonionic solubilizers and optionally solvents are described in the prior art.

A particularly preferred complexing agent is etidronic acid (1-hydroxyethylidene-1,1-diphosphonic acid, 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid, HEDP, acetophosphonic acid, INCI Etidronic Acid) including their salts. In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention accordingly contains etidronic acid and / or one or more of its salts as complexing agent.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains a complexing agent combination of one or more tertiary amines and one or more further complexing agents, preferably one or more complexing acids or salts thereof, in particular triethanolamine and / or tetra-2-hydroxypropylethylenediamine and etidronic acid and / or a or more of their salts.

The composition of the invention preferably contains at least one complexing agent in a total amount of usually 0 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 8 wt. -%, most preferably 1.5 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

It should be noted at this point that the term% by weight, unless otherwise indicated, refers to the entire average.

The content of water in preferred agents according to the invention depends u. a. Accordingly, whether the agent is in liquid or solid form, is therefore preferably 0 to less than 100 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 95 wt .-%, with values of at most 5 wt .-%, in particular for solid or non-aqueous find special preference for liquid funds. Not included here was the water of crystallization present in individual raw materials, in particular the antiperspirant aluminum and / or zirconium compounds.

In the case of liquid agents, the composition of the invention according to a preferred embodiment contains water in an amount of more than 20 wt .-%, advantageously more than 30 wt .-%., More preferably more than 40 wt .-%, even more advantageous as 50 wt .-%, in particular 60 to 99 wt .-%, particularly preferably 70 to 98 wt .-% and most preferably 80 to 95 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

The upper limit of water may also be 80 wt%, 70 wt%, 60 wt%, 50 wt%, 40 wt%, 30 wt%, 20 wt%, or 10 Wt .-% wt .-%, based on the total agent.

The lower limit of water can z. B. also at 80 wt .-%, 70 wt .-%, 60 wt .-%, 50 wt .-%, 40 wt .-%, 30 wt .-%, 20 wt .-% or 10 wt. %, based on the total mean.

The above upper and lower limits can of course be meaningfully combined, z. B. to water contents of 60-80 wt .-% or 10-30 wt .-%, etc.

In a further preferred embodiment, the skin treatment composition according to the invention additionally contains at least one UV-absorbing substance. When used in small amounts (up to about 1 wt .-%), the UV-absorbing substance is used to advantageously improve the light resistance of other formulation ingredients (product protection). When used in higher amounts (greater than 1% by weight), the UV-absorbing substance serves to protect the treated skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation. Under UV-absorbing substance are organic and inorganic substances (sunscreen) to understand, which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. to give off heat again. Compounds having these desired properties include, for example, the non-radiative deactivating compounds and derivatives of benzophenone having substituents in the 2- and / or 4-position. Also suitable are substituted benzotriazoles, phenyl-substituted acrylates (cinnamic acid derivatives) in the 3-position, optionally with cyano groups in the 2-position, salicylates and natural substances such as umbelliferone and the endogenous urocanic acid. The biphenyl and especially stilbene derivatives, commercially available as Tinosorb ^® FD or Tinosorb ^® FR available ex Ciba. As UV-B absorber are to call 3-Benzylidencampher or 3-Benzylidennorcampher and its derivatives, eg. B. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor; 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester; Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid iso-amyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene); Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate; Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate; Triazine derivatives, such as. For example, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and Octyl Triazone or Dioctyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb HEB ^®); Propane-1,3-diones, such as. B. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione; Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives. Also suitable are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts; Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-boro-nylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

As a typical UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane are suitable, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds. Of course, the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble photoprotective pigments, namely finely dispersed, preferably nano-metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are in particular zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. As salts silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used. The oxides and salts are already used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably from 5 to 50 nm and in particular from 15 to 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Also preferably, micronized zinc oxide can be used. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the relevant prior art.

The at least one UV-absorbing substance is in preferred skin treatment compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-10 wt .-%, most preferably 2 wt .-% to 7 wt .-%, contain. These amounts do not include the at least one photocatalytically active metal oxide used according to the invention which can also absorb in the UV range.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention are in liquid form. To achieve a liquid consistency, the use of both liquid organic solvents and water may be indicated. Therefore, preferred agents according to the invention optionally contain at least one solvent.

Solvents which can be used in preferred agents according to the invention originate, for example, from the group of monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, alkanolamines or glycol ethers, provided they are miscible with water in the concentration range indicated.

Preferably, the solvents are selected from ethanol, n- or i-propanol, butanols, glycol, propane or butanediol, glycerol, diglyol, propyl or butyl diglycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol methyl ether, ethylene glycol ethyl ether, ethylene glycol propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono n-butyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ether, diethylene glycol ethyl ether, propylene glycol methyl, ethyl or propyl ether, butoxy-propoxy-propanol (BPP), dipropylene glycol monomethyl, or ethyl ether, di-isopropylene glycol monomethyl, or ethyl ether, methoxy, ethoxy or Butoxytriglycol, 1-butoxyethoxy-2-propanol, 3-methyl-3-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol t-butyl ether and mixtures of these solvents.

Some glycol ethers are available under the trade names Arcosolv ^® (Arco Chemical Co.) or Cellosolve ^®, carbitol ^® or propanol ^® (Union Carbide Corp.); this includes z. B. ButylCarbitol® ^{®, ®} hexyl carbitol, methyl ^®, and Carbitol ^® itself, (2- (2-ethoxy) ethoxy) ethanol. The choice of glycol ether can be readily made by one skilled in the art on the basis of its volatility, water solubility, weight percent of the total dispersion, and the like. Pyrrolidone solvents, such as N-alkyl-pyrrolidones, for example N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone or NC ₈ -C ₁₂ -alkyl-pyrrolidone, or 2-pyrrolidone, may also be used. Also preferred as the sole solvent or as part of a solvent mixture are glycerol derivatives, in particular glycerol carbonate.

Among the alcohols which may be preferably used as cosolvents in the present invention are low molecular weight liquid polyethylene glycols, for example, polyethylene glycols having a molecular weight of 200, 300, 400 or 600. Further suitable cosolvents are other alcohols, for example (a) lower alcohols such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and n-butanol, (b) ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone, (c) C ₂ -C ₄ polyols such as a diol or a triol, for example ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol or mixtures thereof. Especially preferred is 1,2-octanediol from the class of diols.

In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains one or more solvents from the group comprising C ₁ to C ₄ monoalcohols, C ₂ to C ₆ glycols, C ₃ to C ₁₂ glycol ethers and Glycerol, especially ethanol. The C ₃ - to C ₁₂ glycol ethers according to the invention contain alkyl or alkenyl groups having less than 10 carbon atoms, preferably up to 8, in particular up to 6, more preferably 1 to 4 and most preferably 2 to 3 carbon atoms.

Preferred C ₁ to C ₄ monohydric alcohols are ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol and tert-butanol. Preferred C ₂ to C ₆ glycols are ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol and 1,6-hexanediol, especially ethylene glycol and 1,2-propylene glycol. Preferred C ₃ - to C ₁₂ glycol ethers are di-, tri-, tetra- and pentaethylene glycol, di-, tri- and tetrapropylene glycol, propylene glycol monotertiary butyl ether and propylene glycol monoethyl ether and the solvents designated according to INCI butoxydiglycol, butoxyethanol, butoxyisopropanol, butoxypropanol, butyloctanol, ethoxydiglycol, Ethoxyethanol, ethyl hexanediol, isobutoxypropanol, isopentyldiol, 3-methoxybutanol, methoxyethanol, methoxyisopropanol and methoxymethylbutanol.

Preferred agents according to the invention comprise one or more solvents in a total amount of usually up to 90% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular 2 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 3 to 15% by weight. , most preferably 5 to 12 wt .-%, for example, 5.3 or 10.6 wt .-%, each based on the total agent.

Dyes can be used optionally in the composition according to the invention, wherein the amount of one or more dyes is to be chosen so small that remain after application of the agent no visible residues. Preferably, the agent according to the invention is free of dyes.

The agent according to the invention may preferably contain one or more antimicrobial agents or preservatives in an amount of usually 0.0001 to 3 wt.%, Preferably 0.0001 to 2 wt.%, In particular 0.0002 to 1 wt. more preferably 0.0002 to 0.2% by weight, most preferably 0.0003 to 0.1% by weight.

Antimicrobial agents or preservatives are differentiated depending on the antimicrobial spectrum and mechanism of action between bacteriostats and bactericides, fungistatics and fungicides, etc. Important substances from these groups are, for example, benzalkonium chlorides, alkylarylsulfonates, halophenols and phenol mercuriacetate. The terms antimicrobial action and antimicrobial agent have the usual meaning within the scope of the teaching according to the invention. Suitable antimicrobial agents are preferably selected from the groups of the alcohols, amines, aldehydes, antimicrobial acids or their salts, carboxylic acid esters, acid amides, phenols, phenol derivatives, diphenyls, diphenylalkanes, urea derivatives, oxygen, nitrogen acetals and formals, benzamidines, isothiazolines , Phthalimide derivatives, pyridine derivatives, antimicrobial surface active compounds, guanidines, antimicrobial amphoteric compounds, quinolines, 1,2-dibromo-2,4-di-cyanobutane, iodo-2-propyl-butyl-carbamate, iodine, iodophores, peroxo compounds, halogen compounds and any Mixtures of the preceding.

The antimicrobial agent may be selected from ethanol, n-propanol, i-propanol, 1,3-butanediol, phenoxyethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, undecylenic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid, dihydracetic acid, o-phenylphenol, N-propanol. Methylmorpholine-acetonitrile (MMA), 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 2,2'-methylenebis (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 4,4'-di-chloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether ( Dichlosan), 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (trichlosan), chlorhexidine, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N- (3,4-dichlorophenyl) -urea, N, N '- (1, 10-decanediyldi-1-pyridinyl-4-ylidene) bis (1-octanamine) dihydrochloride, N, N'-bis (4-chlorophenyl) -3,12-diimino-2,4,11, 13-tetraaza-tetradecandiimidamide, glucoprotamines, antimicrobial surface-active quaternary compounds, guanidines including the bi- and polyguanidine-type such as 1,6-bis- (2-ethylhexyl-biguanido-hexane) -dihydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-phenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') -hexane-tetrahydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-phenyl-N ₁ , N ₁ -methyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') -hexane dihydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ ' -o- chlorophenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') -hexane dihydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ ' -2,6-dichlorophenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') hexane dihydrochloride, 1,6-di - [N _1, N ₁ '-beta- (p-methoxyphenyl) diguanido-N _5, N _5'] -hexanes-dihydroergotamine-hydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N _1, N ₁ '-alpha-methyl- .beta.-phenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') -hexane dihydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ ' -p-nitrophenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') hexane dihydrochloride, omega : omega-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-phenyl-diguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') -di-n-propyl ether dihydrochloride, omega: omega-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-p-chlorophenyl-diguanido- N ₅ , N ₅ ') di-n-propyl ether tetrahydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ ' -2,4-dichlorophenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') hexane-tetrahydrochloride, 1.6 Di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '- p -methylphenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') hexane dihydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-2,4,5-trichlorophenyldi guanido- N ₅ , N ₅ ') hexane-tetrahydrochloride, 1,6-di- [N ₁ , N ₁ ' -alpha (p-chlorophenyl) ethyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ '] hexane dihydrochloride, omega: omega-di - (N ₁ , N ₁ '-p-chlorophenyl-nigiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') m-xylene dihydrochloride, 1, 12-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-p-chlorophenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') dodecane dihydrochloride, 1,10-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-phenyl-diguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') decane-tetrahydrochloride, 1,12-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ ' -phenyl-diguanido- N ₅ , N ₅ ') dodecane-tetrahydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ ' -o- chlorophenyldi guanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') hexane dihydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ ' -o-chlorophenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') hexane-tetrahydrochloride, ethylene bis (1 tolyl biguanide), ethylene bis (p-tolyl biguanide), ethylene bis (3,5-dimethylphenyl biguanide), ethylene bis (p-tert-amylphenyl biguanide), ethylene bis (nonyl phenylbiguanide), ethylene bis (phenylbioguanide), ethylene bis (N-butylphenylbioguanide), ethylene bis (2,5-diethoxyphenylbiguanide), ethylene bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl biguanide), ethylene bis (o-diphenylbiguanide ), Ethylene bis (mixed amyl naphthyl biguanide), N-butyl ethylene bis (phenyl biguanide), trimethylene bis (o-tolyl biguanide), N-butyl trimethyl bis (phenyl biguanide) and the corresponding salts such as acetates, gluconates , Hydrochloride, Hydrobromide, Citrate, Bisu lfite, fluorides, polymaleates, N-cocoalkyl sarcosinates, phosphites, hypophosphites, perfluorooctanoates, silicates, sorbates, salicylates, maleates, tartrates, fumarates, ethylenediaminetetraacetates, iminodiacetates, cinnamates, thiocyanates, arginates, pyromellitates, tetracarboxybutyrates, benzoates, glutarates, monofluorophosphates, perfluoropropionates, and the like any mixtures thereof. Furthermore, halogenated xylene and cresol derivatives, such as p-chloromethacresol or p-chlorometaxylene, as well as natural antimicrobial agents of plant origin (eg from spices or herbs), of animal and microbial origin are suitable. Preferably, antimicrobial surface-active quaternary compounds, a natural antimicrobial agent of plant origin and / or a natural antimicrobial agent of animal origin, most preferably at least one natural antimicrobial agent of plant origin from the group comprising caffeine, theobromine and theophylline and essential oils such as eugenol, thymol and geraniol, and / or at least one natural antimicrobial agent of animal origin from the group, comprising enzymes such as protein from milk, lysozyme and lactoperoxidase, and / or at least one antimicrobial surface-active quaternary compound with an ammonium, sulfonium, phosphonium, iodonium - or Arsoniumgruppe, peroxo compounds and chlorine compounds are used. Also substances of microbial origin, so-called bacteriocins, can be used. Glycine, glycine derivatives, formaldehyde, compounds which readily split off formaldehyde, formic acid and peroxides are preferably used.

The suitable as antimicrobial agents quaternary ammonium compounds (QAV) have been described above. Is particularly suitable, for example, benzalkonium chloride, etc. Benzalkonium halides and / or substituted benzalkonium halides are for example commercially available as Barquat ^® ex Lonza, Marquat® ^® ex Mason, Variquat ^® ex Witco / Sherex and Hyamine ^® ex Lonza and as Bardac ^® ex Lonza. Other commercially obtainable antimicrobial agents are N- (3-chloroallyl) hexaminium chloride such as Dowicide and Dowicil ^{® ®} ex Dow, benzethonium chloride such as Hyamine ^® 1622 ex Rohm & Haas, methylbenzethonium as Hyamine ^® 10X ex Rohm & Haas, cetylpyridinium chloride such as Cepacol ex Merrell Labs ,

in der R₁, R₂, R₃ und R₄ unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methyl-, Ethyl-, n-Propyl-, Isopropyl-, n-Butyl-, sek.-Butyl-, tert.Butyl- oder C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, stehen, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R₁–R₄ eine C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, darstellt.Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is present to improve skin moisture while omitting comedogenic substances.

in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R _{4 are} independently of one another a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, with the proviso that at least one of R ₁ -R _{4 is} C ₂ -C ₆ -hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is selected from compounds in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl , Ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ -hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ Hydroxyalkyl groups are substituted, with the proviso that at least one of R ₁ and R ₂ and at the same time at least one of R ₃ and R _{4 is} a C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 5 Hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups is substituted represents.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one alkyl or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is selected from bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one alkyl or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the formula (A), in particular N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, in a total amount of 0.01-50% by weight. %, preferably 0.1-20 wt .-%, more preferably 1-10 wt .-% and most preferably 2-5 wt .-%, based on the total composition, included. N, N'-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, a crystalline solid at room temperature, is available, for example, as a Hydrovance commercial product from National Starch and Chemical Company as an approximately 45-55% aqueous solution containing urea and ammonium lactate.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one DNA oligonucleotide or at least one RNA oligonucleotide.

According to the invention, an oligonucleotide is understood as meaning polymers of from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, mononucleotides which, like polynucleotides and nucleic acids, are linked by phosphoric diester bridges. The nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in β-N-glycosidic bond to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid. The mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5'-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine). 5'-triphosphate).

An oligonucleotide particularly preferred according to the invention is the thymidine dinucleotide. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one DNA oligonucleotide and / or one RNA oligonucleotide in total amounts of 0.000001-5 wt.%, Preferably 0.0001-0.5 wt.%, And particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one natural betaine compound. Natural betaine compounds of the invention are naturally occurring compounds having the atomic group R ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -X-COO ^- according to IUPAC Rule C-816.1. So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, nor any other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge formally reside on O, S, B or C, but which are not of the IUPAC Comply with rule C-816.1.

Betaine compounds preferred according to the invention are betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ COO ^- ) and carnitine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ CHOH-CH ₂ -COO ^- ), each with Me = methyl and X = CC single bond (in the case of Betains) or X = -CHOH-CH ₂ - (in the case of carnitine).

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one natural betaine compound in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt. , in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention, at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form.

Preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2- Hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. The esters of said acids are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. Particularly preferred according to the invention Compositions are characterized in that in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid and / or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or a derivative, in particular an ester, a lactone or a salt thereof, in a total amount of 0.01-10 Wt .-%, preferably 0.1-5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5-1-2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one flavonoid or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract.

The flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the glycosides of the flavones, the flavanones, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols), the aurones and the isoflavones. Particularly preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin), hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4 '-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside, hesperetin-7-O-rhamnoglucoside), neohesperidin, rutin (3,3', 4 ', 5,7-pentahydroxy-flavone-3-rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3, 5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin ( 3,3 ', 4', 5-Tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), diosmin (3 ', 4', 7-trihydroxy-5-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside), eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone-7-glucoside).

Extremely preferred flavonoids according to the invention are α-glucosylrutin, naringin and apigenin-7-glucoside.

Also preferred are the constructed from two flavonoid biflavonoids, z. B. occur in gingko species. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin, hesperidin methyl chalcone and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one flavonoid in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the flavonoid active substance in the entire cosmetic composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one isoflavonoid or at least one isoflavonoid-rich plant extract. The isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides are counted at this point as isoflavonoids.

For the purposes of the present invention, isoflavones are to be understood as meaning substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, hydrogenation of which may be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation under Formation of a carbonyl group in the 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand.

The isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.

In the isoflavone glycosides preferred according to the invention, the isoflavones are glycosidically linked via at least one hydroxy group to at least one sugar. Suitable sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose.

Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin.

It is furthermore preferred according to the invention if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides are contained in the preparations as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a plant extract. Such vegetable substance mixtures can be obtained in a manner familiar to the person skilled in the art, for example by squeezing or extracting from plants such as soya, red clover or chickpeas. Isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of extracts obtained from soybean are particularly preferably used in the preparations according to the invention, as described, for example, under the product name Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) are commercially available. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline from Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one isoflavonoid in a total amount of 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably 0.001 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one polyphenol or one polyphenol-rich plant extract.

According to the invention, polyphenols are aromatic compounds which contain at least two phenolic hydroxyl groups in the molecule. These include the three dihydroxybenzenes catechol, resorcinol and hydroquinone, phloroglucin, pyrogallol and hexahydroxybenzene. In nature, free and etherified polyphenols occur, for example, in floral dyes (anthocyanidins, flavones), in tannins (catechins, tannins), as lichen or fern ingredients (usnic acid, acylpolyphenols), in lignins and as gallic acid derivatives.

Preferred polyphenols are flavones, catechins, usnic acid, and as tannins the derivatives of gallic acid, digallic acid and digalloylgallic acid. Particularly preferred polyphenols are the monomeric catechins, ie the derivatives of flavan-3-ols, and leucoanthocyanidins, ie the derivatives of leucoanthocyanidins which preferably carry phenolic hydroxyl groups in the 5,7,3 ', 4', 5 'position, preferably epicatechin and epigallocatechin, as well as the tannins resulting from self-condensation. Such tannins are preferably not used in isolated pure substance, but as extracts of tanning-rich plant parts, eg. Extracts of catechu, quebracho, oak bark and pine bark, as well as other tree bark, leaves of green tea (camellia sinensis) and mate. Also particularly preferred are the tannins.

A particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Sepivinol R, an extract of red wine, available from Seppic. Another particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Crodarom Chardonnay L, an extract from the cores of the Chardonnay grape, available from Croda.

According to the invention, the polyphenols are preferred in amounts of 0.001 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 5% by weight and very preferably 0.01 to 3% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the commercial product, of at least one polyphenol contains, used in the entire composition of the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain silymarin. According to the invention, silymarin is an active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) which was formerly regarded as a uniform substance.

The main constituents of silymarin are silybin (silymarin I), silychristin (silymarin II) and silydianin, which belong to the group of flavanolignans.

Compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain silymarin in amounts of 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 0.01% by weight and more preferably 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one naturally occurring xanthine derivative selected from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and aminophylline. According to the invention, the naturally occurring xanthine derivatives are preferred in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably from 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, based in each case on entire composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain ectoine. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate.

According to the invention, ectoine is preferably present in amounts of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain creatine. Creatine is the common name for N-methyl-guanidino-acetic acid or N-amidinosarcosine. According to the invention, creatine is preferred in amounts of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, based in each case on the total composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one olive leaf extract (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract). An inventively particularly preferred olive leaf extract is available under the trade name Oleanoline DPG from the company Vincience. Another invention particularly preferred olive leaf extract is under the trade name Olea europ Fol extr. S. sicc. available from Fruitarom.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one olive leaf extract in a total amount of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 1 to 2% by weight. %, in each case based on the extract as a commercial product tel quel in the entire composition according to the invention.

Olive leaf extracts may have a high content of oleanolic acid and / or oleanol. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain oleanolic acid, oleanol and / or oleuropein. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain oleanolic acid, oleanol and / or oleuropein in a total amount of 0.00001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight and more preferably 0.05 to 0.1% by weight .-%, in each case based on the total composition of the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain ursolic acid. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise ursolic acid in a total amount of 0.00001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.05 to 0.1% by weight, in each case to the entire composition of the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one active substance which is selected from the mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters. According to the invention, polyhydroxystilbenes are understood to mean stilbenes which are substituted by 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 hydroxyl groups on the two phenyl radicals, it being possible for these to be esterified. Mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.

Particularly preferred hydroxystilbenes and their esters according to the invention are selected from resveratrol (trans-stilbene-3,4'-5-triol), the resveratrol mono-, di- and triphosphoric acid esters and their salts. An inventively particularly preferred Resveratrolphosphorsäureester is trisodium resveratrol triphosphates, z. Available from Ajinomoto.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active agent selected from the mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters, in a total amount of 0.000001-5% by weight, preferably 0.00001-1 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005-0.05 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

• – sodium mannuronate methylsilanol (Algisium, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol mannuronate (Algisium C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol mannuronate Nylon-12 (Algisium C powder^®, Exsymol)
• – ascorbylmethylsilanol (Ascorbosilane concentrate C^®, Exsymol)
• – ascorbylmethylsilanol pectinate (Ascorbosilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – dimethyl oxobenzodioxsilane (DSBC^®, Exsymol)
• – dimethyl oxobenzodioxasilane Nylon-12 (DSBC powder^®, Exsymol)
• – sodium hyaluronate dimethylsilanol (DSH^®, Exsymol)
• – dimethylsilanol hyaluronate (DSHC^®, Exsymol)
• – methysilanol glycyrrhizinate (Glysinol^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanolhydroxyproline (Hydroxyprolisilane^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanolhydroxyproline aspartate (Hydroxyprolisilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – sodium lactate methylsilanol (Lasilium^®, Exsymol)
• – lactoylmethylsilanol elastinate (Lasilium C^®, Exsymol)
• – dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol (Liposiliol C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol acetylmethionate (Methiosilane^®, Exsymol)
• – acetylmethionylmethylsifanol elastinate (Methiosilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol tri PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol elastinate (Proteosilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – pyrollidone carboxylate caustic methylsilanol (Silhydrate^®, Exsymol)
• – pyrollidone carboxylate copper methylsilanol (Silhydrate C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanolcarboxymethyl theophylline (Theophyllisilane^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilancarboxymethyl theophylline alginate (Theophyllisilane C^® Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol acetyltyrosine (Tyrosilane^®, Exsymol)
• – copper acetyl tyrosinate methylsilanol (Tyrosilane C^®, Exsymol).

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one derivative of methylated silanol, preferably at least one ester of methylated silanol. Preferred derivatives of methylated silanol are selected from:

• - sodium mannuronate methylsilanol (algisium, exsymol)
• - Mannuronate methylsilanol (Algisium C ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol Mannuronate Nylon-12 (Algisium C powder ^®, Exsymol)
• - ascorbylmethylsilanol (Ascorbosilane concentrate C ^®, Exsymol)
• - ascorbylmethylsilanol pectinate (Ascorbosilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - dimethyl oxobenzodioxsilane (DSBC ^®, Exsymol)
• - dimethyl oxobenzodioxasilane Nylon-12 (DSBC ^® powder, Exsymol)
• - sodium hyaluronate dimethylsilanol (DSH ^®, Exsymol)
• - dimethylsilanol hyaluronate (DSHC ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methysilanol glycyrrhizinate (Glysinol ^® , exsymol)
• - methylsilanolhydroxyproline (Hydroxyprolisilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanolhydroxyproline aspartate (Hydroxyprolisilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - sodium lactate methylsilanol (Lasilium ^® , exsymol)
• - lactoylmethylsilanol elastinate (Lasilium C ^®, Exsymol)
• - dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol (Liposiliol C ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol acetylmethionate (Methiosilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - acetylmethionylmethylsifanol elastinate (Methiosilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanol PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanol tri PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol C ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol elastinate (Proteosilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - pyrollidone carboxylate caustic methylsilanol (Silhydrate ^® , exsymol)
• - pyrollidone carboxylate copper methylsilanol (Silhydrate C ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanolcarboxymethyl theophylline (Theophyllisilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilancarboxymethyl theophylline alginate (Theophyllisilane ^® C Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol acetyltyrosine (Tyrosilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - copper acetyl tyrosinate methylsilanol (Tyrosilane C ^®, Exsymol).

Particularly preferred are sodium hyaluronates dimethylsilanol, dimethylsilanol hyaluronates, methylsilanol mannuronates, methylsilanol hydroxyproline and methylsilanol hydroxyproline aspartates. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one derivative of methylated silanol in total amounts of 0.001-5% by weight, preferably 0.005-1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.01-0.5% by weight, in each case based on the active substance in the entire composition according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain phytic acid. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain phytic acid in a total amount of 0.001-1% by weight, preferably 0.01-0.5% by weight and more preferably 0.05-0.1% by weight. -%, in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one extract of maize kernels (Zea may (kernel extract)). An extract of corn kernels which is particularly preferred according to the invention is obtainable under the trade name Deliner from Coletica. This extract increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from extracts of maize kernels (Zea mays (Corn) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.01-5% by weight, preferably 0 , 1-3 wt .-%, more preferably 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the content of extract tel quel in the entire composition.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from corn kernel extracts (Zea mays (Corn) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0 , 0001-0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one extract of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract). A particularly preferred extract of oat grains according to the invention is available under the trade name Drago Beta Glucan (02/060800) from Symrise. This extract increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from extracts of oat grains (Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.01-5% by weight, preferably 0 , 1-3 wt .-%, more preferably 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the content of extract tel quel in the entire composition.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one active ingredient selected from extracts of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0 , 0001-0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one product which is obtained by fermentation of sweetened black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter ylinum, referred to as kombucha and bears the INCI name Saccharomyces / xylinum / Black Tea Ferment. Such products increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. A particularly preferred product is available under the trade name Kombuchka from the company Sederma (INCI name: Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment, glycerol, hydroxyethyl cellulose).

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from products obtained by fermentation of sweetened black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Xylinum and the INCI name Saccharomyces / xylinum / Black Tea Ferment carry, in a total amount of 0.01-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-3 wt .-%, more preferably 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the content of product tel quel in the entire composition. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from products obtained by fermentation of sweetened black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter Xylinum and the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea ferment carry, in a total amount of 0.00001-1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-% contained, each based on the content of Active substance in the entire composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract).

Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. Particularly preferred apple seed extracts according to the invention are available under the trade name Ederline from Seporga. The product Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes. Ederline is once in water-soluble form as Ederline-H (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), on the other in fat-soluble form as Ederline-L (INCI: Hexyldecanol , Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract).

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the raw material Ederline in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and particularly preferably 3-5% by weight, in each case on the entire composition, included. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one apple seed extract in quantities of 0.00001-2% by weight, preferably 0.001-1.6% by weight and more preferably 0.03-1% by weight. %, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of lotus nuclei (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract). Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. A particularly preferred lotus germ extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Lotus Germ Extract with the INCI name Water, Butylene Glycol, Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract from Maruzen.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of lotus nuclei (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract) in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and more preferably 2-5% by weight. 3 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of lotus nuclei in amounts of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0, 05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of red wine. Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. A particularly preferred red wine extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Sepivinol R from Seppic.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of red wine in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and particularly preferably 2-3% by weight. in each case based on the total composition. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of red wine in quantities of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0, 05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one extract of grape seeds (Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed extract). Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. The grape seed extracts are particularly preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape. Particularly preferred grape seed extracts according to the invention are available under the trade name Herbalia Grape from Cognis or under the trade name Crodarom Chardonnay from Croda.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of grape seeds in quantities of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and particularly preferably 2-3% by weight. in each case based on the total composition. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of grape seeds in quantities of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and more preferably 0.001-0, 05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of black elder flowers (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract). Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. An invention particularly preferred extract of black elderflower is available under the trade name Sambucus AO from the company Alpaflor / Centerchem or Permcos.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of black elderflower in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-5% by weight and particularly preferably 2-3% by weight. , in each case based on the total composition. Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of black elder flower in amounts of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and more preferably 0.001-0 , 05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one active ingredient which stimulates beta-endorphin synthesis in keratinocytes.

Particularly preferred according to the invention stimulators of beta-endorphin synthesis are selected from mixtures of at least one extract of the leaves of Mentha piperita and at least one extract of cocoa beans, wherein aqueous, glycolic or aqueous-glycolic preparations of these extract mixtures under the trade names Caomint, Caophenol, Caobromine , Caospice and Caoorange available from Solabia, are particularly preferred. Another particularly preferred Stimulator of the beta-endorphin synthesis is the dipeptide derivative N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester with the INCI name acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, z. B. as an aqueous preparation under the trade name Calmosensine from the company Sederma is available.

Further preferred stimulators of beta-endorphin synthesis are extracts of Helichrysum italicum, e.g. B. available under the trade name Areaumat Perpetua from Codif, extracts from Crithmum Maritimum, z. B. available under the trade names Areaumat Samphira and Aroleat Samphira by Codif, extracts of Lavendula stoechas, z. B. available under the trade name Areaumat Lavanda by the company Codif, extracts of Mentha piperita, as z. Available under the trade names Authenticals of Peppermint (Solabia) and Calmiskin (Silab), glutamylamidoethyl indoles, e.g. B. available under the trade name Glistin exsymol, obtained by microbial fermentation branched polysaccharide with rhamnose, galactose and glucuronic acid units with the INCI name Biosaccharides Gum-2, z. B. available under the trade name Rhamnosoft from the company Solabia, extracts from the seeds of Tephrosia Purpurea with the INCI name Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract, z. B. available under the trade name Tephroline from Vincience, mixtures of the oil of Mentha arvensis leaves, lime skin oil, cypress oil, lavender oil and Cistus Ladaniferus oil with the INCI name Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil and Cupressus Sempervirens Oil and Lavandula Hybrida Oil and Cistus Ladaniferus Oil, eg. B. available under the trade name V-Tonic (Gattefossé), and hexasaccharides according to FR 2842201 as well as any mixtures of these active ingredients.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active substance for stimulating beta-endorphin synthesis in total amounts of 0.01-10% by weight, preferably 0.1-5% by weight, and particularly preferably 1-3 wt .-%, each based on the commercial product containing the active ingredient, in the entire composition of the invention included. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient for stimulating beta-endorphin synthesis in total amounts of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05% by weight, based in each case on the content of active substance in the total composition according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention for supporting the action of the photocatalytically active metal oxide used according to the invention, in particular titanium dioxide, comprise at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient.

Sebum-regulating active substances preferred according to the invention are selected from 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid and the esters of azelaic acid, in particular potassium azeloyl diglycinate, 1,10-decanediol and at least one extract of Spiraea ulmaria, glycyrrhizin, which is also referred to as glycyrrhizic acid or glycyrrhetinic acid glycoside and the beta-glucuronido-alpha-glucuronide of glycyrrhetinic acid, and their salts, tannic acid and its salts, gallotannins, naringin, mixtures of glycyrrhizin (salts), tannic acid (salts) and / or gallotannins and naringin, as for example as a commercial product BiSCos Glynarin PF (INCI: Aqua (Water), Alacohol, Ohenoxyethanol, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Tannic Acid, Naringine) from the company Biesterfeld are available, further from water and oil-soluble extracts of witch hazel, burdock root and stinging nettle, Zimtbaumextract (z. (B. Sepicontrol A5 ^® by the company SEPPIC), chrysanthemum extract z. B. Laricyl ^® from Laboratoires Sérobiologiques) Hefeproteinhydrolysaten as such. B. in the commercial products of the Asebiol ^® series of Laboratoires Sérobiologiques are available, in particular Asebiol ^® LS 2539 BT 2 (INCI: Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, pyridoxines, niacinamides, glycerol, panthenol, allantoin, biotin) and Asebiol ^® LS 2539 BT (Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Panthenol, Propylene Glycol, Allantoin, Disodium Azelate, Biotin) and PEG-8 isolauryl thioether, as described, for example, in US Pat. B. in the commercial product "Antifettfaktor ^® COS-218/2-A" of Cosmetochem is included (INCI: Aqua, cetyl-PCA, PEG-8 Isolauryl thioether, PCA, cetyl alcohol), and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Preferred blends are available, for example, as the commercial product Acnacidol PG (propylene glycol, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, 1,10-decanediol) from Vincience.

A preferred extract of Spiraea ulmaria is z. B. contained in the product Seboregul 2 Silab. Kaliumazeloyldiglycinat is z. B. contained in the product Azeloglicina Sinerga. Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient in total amounts of 0.00001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight and more preferably 0.1 to 1-2 Wt .-%, each based on the active ingredient in the total composition according to the invention.

To support the photocatalytically active metal oxide used according to the invention, in particular titanium dioxide, the skin treatment compositions according to the invention preferably further comprise at least one particulate, sebum-sorbing agent, in particular talc, starch and other particles.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the particulate, sebum-sorbing active ingredient is selected from inorganic and organic cosmetic adsorbents having average particle diameters of 0.1-100 .mu.m, preferably 0.5-50 .mu.m, particularly preferably 5-30 .mu.m and extremely preferably 10-25 μm. Particularly preferred inorganic adsorbents are selected from silicas, particularly Aerosil ^® grades, silica gels, silica, clays and layered silicates, in particular bentonite or kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicates, in particular talc, and boron nitride, and mixtures of said substances. Particularly preferred organic adsorbents are selected from starches and starch derivatives, which may be chemically and / or physically modified, in particular modified starch derivatives of type DRY FLO ^® of National Starch and Chemical Company, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin, particularly sodium C _8-16 -Isoalkylsuccinyllactoglobulinsulfonat, z. B. available as a commercial product Biopol ^® OE Brooks Industries, polymer powders of polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyamides, polyesters, polystyrenes, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polymethyl methacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers, Teflon or silicones , Wherein said polymer powders may be crosslinked in a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, and mixtures of said substances.

Polymer powder based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are z. B. as a commercial product Polytrap ^® 6603 (Dow Corning) available. Other polymer powders, e.g. Example based on polyamides, obtainable under the name Orgasol ^® 1002 (polyamide-6) and Orgasol ^® 2002 (polyamide-12) from Elf Atochem. Further according to the invention particularly preferred polymer powders are crosslinked polymethacrylates (Micro Pearl ^® M from SEPPIC or Plastic Powder A of NIKKOL), cross-linked polymethyl (Micro Pearl ^® M 305 and Micro Pearl ^® M 310 from SEPPIC), styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (e.g., B. Plastic Powder FP (of NIKKOL), polyethylene and polypropylene powder z. B. ACCUREL EP 400 ^® (ex AKZO) or silicone polymers z. B. silicone powder X2-1605 from Dow Corning).

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the particulate, sebumsorbierende drug on cavities. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the particulate, sebumsorbierende agent has hemispherical particles, more preferably at least 50 wt .-% of the particles are hemispherical. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the particulate, sebumsorbierende agent has hemispherical particles with cavities, more preferably at least 50 wt .-% of the particles are hemispherical with cavities.

Particularly preferred particulate, sebumsorbierende agents are crosslinked polymethyl methacrylates with average particle diameters of 5-50 microns, in particular the commercial products Micropearl ^® M 305 and Micropearl ^® M 310 SEPPIC. Extremely preferred particulate, sebumsorbierende agents are crosslinked polymethyl methacrylates with average particle diameters of 5-50 microns, which include hemispherical particles with cavities, more preferably at least 50 wt .-% of the particles are hemispherical with cavities, such as the commercial product Micropearl ^® M 310 of SEPPIC.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one particulate sebum-sorbing agent in a total amount of from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 1.5 to 3% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one deoxy sugar or a polysaccharide containing at least one deoxy sugar building block.

Preferred deoxysugars according to the invention are selected from rhamnose and fucose. One According to the invention particularly preferred polysaccharide containing deoxy sugar building blocks is the commercial product Fucogel ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-1.

Another inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product Rhamnosoft ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2. An inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product Fucogenol ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-third An inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product Glycofilm ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-fourth According to the invention furthermore given to mixtures of the above, containing at least one deoxy-block polysaccharides, for example the mixture of Biosaccharide Gum-2 and Biosaccharide Gum-3, available as a commercial product Elastinol plus ^® from Solabia are.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one deoxysugar and / or at least one polysaccharide containing deoxy sugar units in total amounts of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 2% by weight and more preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition of the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one organic skin lightening agent. Skin-lightening active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected individually or in mixtures from hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, extracts from licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra), extracts from different parts of the mulberry tree (Morus spp., In particular from Morus alba and in particular extracts from the bark, the strain , leaves and fruits), extracts of Scutellaria spp. (Skullcap), in particular from Scutellaria baicalensis (Baikal helmetwort) and here in particular extracts from the root, extracts from Waltheria indica ("Sleepy Morning") and in particular extracts from the leaves, extracts of bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (L. ), Ericaceae) and in particular extracts from the leaves, extracts of cranberry (leaves and flowers), extracts of blueberry (fruits), extracts of leaf buds of pear trees, aniseed oil, extracts of blackberry leaves, furthermore extracts of Pyrola rotundifolia (round-leaved wintergreen), Cucumber and / or lime, furthermore ascorbic acid, coumaric acid ((Z) -2-hydroxycinnamic acid) and cis-9-octadecenedioic acid (other nomenclature: cis-8-hexadecene dicarboxylic acid), the latter being commercially available, for example. B. under the name Arlatone DIOIC DCA from Uniqema, and the esters and / or salts of these acids.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one organic skin lightening agent in total amounts of from 0.00001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.1 to 1. 2 wt .-%, each based on the active ingredient in the total composition according to the invention.

Advantageously, the skin treatment compositions according to the invention are in the form of a liquid, flowable or solid oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water-in-oil or water-in Oil-in-water emulsion, macroemulsion, miniemulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, Pickering emulsion, hydrodispersion, hydrogel, lipogel, a mono- or multiphase solution, a foam, a powder, or a mixture with at least one polymer suitable as a medical adhesive. The agents may also be presented in anhydrous form, such as an oil or a balm. Here, the carrier may be a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a mixture of such oils.

In a particular embodiment of the agents according to the invention, the agents are present as microemulsions. In the context of the invention, microemulsions are understood as meaning not only the thermodynamically stable microemulsions but also the so-called "PIT" emulsions. These emulsions are systems with the 3 components water, oil and emulsifier, which are present at room temperature as an oil-in-water emulsion. When these systems are heated, microemulsions are formed in a certain temperature range (referred to as the phase inversion temperature or "PIT") and, on further heating, convert to water-in-oil emulsions. Upon subsequent cooling, O / W emulsions are again formed, but they are also present at room temperature as microemulsions or as very finely divided emulsions having an average particle diameter of less than 400 nm and in particular of about 100-300 nm.

According to the invention, those micro- or "PIT" emulsions may be preferred which have an average particle diameter of about 200 nm.

By the term perfume oil is meant preferably self-contained perfume compositions which are commonly used for product scenting and, in particular, are fragrant by human judgment. This will be explained with an example. Will a professional z. If, for example, a fragrant deodorant is made, it usually adds to it not only a (well) smelling substance, but a collective (well) smelling substance. Such a collective usually consists of a large number of individual fragrances, z. B. more than 10 or 15, preferably up to 100 or more. These fragrances cooperatively form a desired fragrant, harmonious odor image.

An inventive perfume oil can individual fragrance compounds, for. As the synthetic products of the ester type, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate (DMBCA), phenylethylacetate, benzylacetate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate, benzylsalicylate, cyclohexylsalicylate, floramate, melusate and jasmecyclate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether and ambroxane, to the aldehydes z. B. the linear alkanals with 8-18 C-atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxy-acetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, Lilial and Bourgeonal, to the ketones z. The alcohols include anethole, citronellol, eugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol; the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes such as limonene and pinene. However, mixtures of different fragrances are preferably used, which together produce an attractive fragrance of the perfume oil formed.

The perfume oils can also contain natural fragrance mixtures, as they are available from plant sources, eg. Pine, citrus, jasmine, patchouly, rose or ylang-ylang oil. Also suitable are Muskateller sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil and labdanum oil and orange blossom oil, neroliol, orange peel oil and sandalwood oil.

In order to be perceptible, a fragrance must be volatile, whereby besides the nature of the functional groups and the structure of the chemical compound, the molecular weight also plays an important role. For example, most odorants have molecular weights up to about 200 daltons, while molecular weights of 300 daltons and above are more of an exception. Due to the different volatility of fragrances, the smell of a fragrance composed of several fragrances changes during evaporation, whereby the odor impressions in "top note", "middle note or body" and "base note "(End note or dry out) divided.

Adhesive-resistant fragrances which are advantageously usable in the perfume oils in the context of the present invention are, for example, the essential oils such as angelica root oil, aniseed oil, arnica blossom oil, basil oil, Bay oil, Champacablütenöl, Edeltannenöl, Edeltannenzapfen oil, Elemiöl, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce alder oil, galbanum oil, geranium oil, Ginger Grass Oil, Guajac Wood Oil, Gurjun Balm Oil, Helichrysum Oil, Ho Oil, Ginger Oil, Iris Oil, Cajeput Oil, Calam Oil, Camomile Oil, Camphor Oil, Kanaga Oil, Cardamom Oil, Cassia Oil, Pine Needle Oil, Kopaïva Balsam Oil, Coriander Oil, Spearmint Oil, Cumin Oil, Cumin Oil, Lemongrass Oil, Musk Grain Oil, Myrrh Oil, Clove Oil, Neroli oil, Niaouli oil, Olibanum oil, Origanum oil, Palmarosa oil, Patchouli oil, Peru balsam oil, Petitgrain oil, Pepper oil, Peppermint oil, Pimento oil, Pine oil, Rose oil, Rosemary oil, Sandalwood oil, Celery oil, Star aniseed oil, Thuja oil, Thyme oil, Verbena oil, Vetiver oil, Juniper berry oil, Vermouth oil, Wintergreen oil, ylang-ylang oil, hyssop oil, cinnamon oil, cinnamon leaf oil and cypress oil.

But the higher-boiling or solid fragrances of natural or synthetic origin can be used in the context of the present invention advantageously as adherent fragrances or fragrance mixtures in the perfume oils. These compounds include the following compounds and mixtures thereof: ambrettolide, α-amylcinnamaldehyde, anethole, anisaldehyde, anisalcohol, anisole, methyl anthranilate, acetophenone, benzylacetone, benzaldehyde, ethyl benzoate, benzophenone, benzyl alcohol, bomeol, bornyl acetate, α-bromostyrene, n -Decyl aldehyde, n-dodecyl aldehyde, eugenol, eugenol methyl ether, eucalyptol, farnesol, fenchone, fenchyl acetate, geranyl acetate, geranyl formate, heliotropin, heptincarboxylic acid methyl ester, heptaldehyde, hydroquinone dimethyl ether, hydroxycinnamaldehyde, hydroxycinnamyl alcohol, indole, iron, isoeugenol, isoeugenol methyl ether, isosafrole, jasmon, camphor , Karvakrol, Karvon, p-cresol methyl ether, coumarin, p-methoxyacetophenone, methyl-n-amyl ketone, methyl anthranilate, p-methylacetophenone, methylchavikole, p-methylquinoline, methyl-β-naphthylketone, methyl-n-nonylacetaldehyde, methyl-n-nonylketone , Muskon, β-naphthol ethyl ether, β-naphthol methyl ether, nerol, nitrobenzene, n-nonylaldehyde, nonyl alcohol, n-octylaldehyde, p-oxyacetophenone, pentadecanolide, β-phenylethyl alcohol, phenylacetaldehyde dimethyl acetal, phenylacetic acid, pulegone, safrole, isoamyl salicylate, methyl salicylate, hexyl salicylate, cyclohexyl salicylate, santalol, skatole, terpineol, thymol, thymol, γ-undelactone, vaniline, veratrum aldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, cinnamic acid, cinnamic acid ethyl ester, cinnamic acid benzyl ester.

Among the more volatile fragrances, which are advantageously used in the perfume oil in the present invention include, in particular, the lower-boiling fragrances natural or synthetic origin, which can be used alone or in mixtures. Examples of more readily volatile fragrances are alkyl isothiocyanates (alkyl mustard oils), butanedione, limonene, linalool, linalyl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronellal.

All of the above-mentioned fragrances can be used alone or as a mixture in the perfume oils according to the present invention with the advantages already mentioned.

In particular, fragrances from the group of allyl alcohol esters, esters of secondary alcohols, esters of tertiary alcohols, allylic ketones, acetals, ketals, condensation products of amines and aldehydes and / or their mixtures may be included in the perfume oil.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains certain minimum values of perfume oil, namely at least 0.00001% by weight, advantageously at least 0.0001% by weight, in a considerably advantageous manner at least 0.001% by weight, more preferably at least 0, 01 wt .-%, in a further advantageous manner at least 0.1 wt .-%, more preferably at least 0.2 wt .-%, in a very advantageous manner at least 0.3 wt .-%, in a particularly advantageous manner at least 0.4% by weight, in a particularly advantageous manner at least 0.45% by weight, in a significantly advantageous manner at least 0.5% by weight, in a very advantageously advantageous manner at least 0.55% by weight, in an extremely advantageous manner at least 0.6% by weight, most advantageously at least 0.65% by weight, most advantageously at least 0.7% by weight, in an exceptionally advantageous manner at least 0.75% by weight, in extraordinarily advantageous manner, at least 0.8% by weight, in extremely advanced advantageously at least 0.85 wt .-%, in particular at least 0.9 wt .-% of perfume oil, based on the total agent.

In a preferred embodiment, the perfume oils contain less than 8, advantageously less than 7, more preferably less than 6, more preferably less than 5, more preferably less than 4, even more preferably less than 3, preferably less than 2, especially no fragrances from the list Amylcinnamal, Amylcinnamylalkohol, Benzylalcohol, Benzylsalicylat, Cinnamylalkohol, Cinnamal, Citral, Cumarin, Eugenol, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Hydroxymethylpentylcyclohexencarboxaldehyde, Isoeugenol, Anisylalkohol, Benzylbenzoat, Benzylcinnamat, Citronellol, Famesol, Hexylcinnamaldehyd, Lilial, d-Limonen, Linalool , Methylheptincarbonate, 3-methyl-4- (2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl) -3-buten-2-one, oak moss extract, tree moss extract.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is free of perfume oil components, in particular in products for sensitive skin.

Another object of the present invention is the use of compositions according to the invention for the non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment and / or minimization of skin wrinkles and wrinkles, the signs of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging, tired and / or flabby skin, UV-damaged skin and / or or irritated skin.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the uses according to the invention, mutatis mutandis, the statements made with regard to the agents according to the invention apply.

A further subject of the present invention is a non-therapeutic method for the non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment and / or minimization of skin wrinkles and wrinkles, the signs of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging, tired and / or flabby skin, UV-damaged skin and / or or irritated skin, characterized in that a skin-treating agent according to the invention is applied to the skin.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention, what has been said about the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• DE 10333245 A [0091]
• DE 102004011968 A [0091]
• DE 19756454 A1 [0100]
• WO 2006/130330 A2 [0113]
• GB 9419091 [0166]
• FR 2842201 [0268]

Cited non-patent literature

• Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd Ed., 1979, Vol. 8, pages 913-916 [0107]
• Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd ed., 1979, Vol. 8, page 913 [0111]

Claims (11)

Cosmetic or dermatological topical compositions containing in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier - based on their weight - a) at least one extract of soybeans, b) 0.001 to 10 wt .-% of at least one active ingredient selected from the group consisting of monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances and / or - the extracts from the group consisting of dill (Peucedanum Graveolens), currant (currant), cardamom (Elettaria cardamomum) , black radish, holly, cinnamon, oats (Avena sativa), potato, silk, and asea foetida gum and / or hyaluronic acid and / or apple seed extract and / or phytohormones and / or isoflavonoids and / or the Phytosterols and / or - the triterpenoids and / or - the tocopherols - the 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-Dialkylchromanen or -chromenenen of the general formulas (I. I) or (III),

wherein R ¹ and R ² independently of one another represent an OH group, a methoxy group or a CF ₃ CH ₂ O group and R ³ and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group, in particular lipochroman-6 and / or - ellagic acid and / or ellagates and / or xanthophylls, in particular astaxanthin, and / or superoxide dismutases and / or lactic acid bacterium-based fermentations and / or ethylhexenoate and its derivatives and / or methylbutyrate and its derivatives and / or - Ethyl decadienoate and its derivatives. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that it contains, by weight, from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.002 to 9% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.01 to Contains 7 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 6 wt .-% extract (s) from soybeans. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that they are the monomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, Cysteine, cystine, desmosine, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isodesmosine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, Thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate, sodium decanoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium cetoylglutamate and sodium stearoylglutamate. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the oligomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances are selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified. Composition according to Claim 4, characterized in that the oligopeptide is selected from Tyr-Arg and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester, Gly-His-Lys and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-acylated derivatives. Palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys, Gly-His-Arg, and its N-acylated derivatives, especially N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, Lys-Val-Lys and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular Palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, Val-Tyr-Val, Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg (Rigin), Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, especially N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, Lys-Thr Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, in particular N-palmitoyl Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, Acetyl-Hexapeptide-3, Hexapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-5, Myristoyl Hexapeptide-5, Myristoyl Hexapeptide-6, Hexapeptide-8, Hexapeptide-9, Hexapeptide-10, L Glutamylaminoethylindol, and combinations of these substances, in particular combinations of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances are selected from - animal and vegetable protein hydrolysates, - animal and vegetable proteins and - DNA repair enzymes. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it contains, by weight, from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 5% by weight. -%, even more preferably 0.002 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.005 to 2 wt .-% of 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-Dialkylchromane or -chromenene of the general formulas (II) or (III) as defined above , wherein preferred compositions - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 7.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, even more preferably 0.002 to Containing 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.005 to 2 wt .-% lipochroman-6. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it contains, by weight, from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight. and in particular 0.02 to 1% by weight of xanthophylls, preferably canthaxanthin, citranaxanthin, flavoxanthin, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, zeaxanthin and very particularly preferably astaxanthin. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one DNA repair enzyme, preferably photolyase and / or T4 endonuclease V and / or 8-oxoguanine glycosylase and / or mixtures thereof. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for the non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment and / or minimization of skin wrinkles and wrinkles, the signs of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging, tired and / or flabby skin, UV-damaged skin and / or irritated Skin. A non-therapeutic method for non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment and / or minimization of skin wrinkles and wrinkles, signs of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging, tired and / or flabby skin, UV-damaged skin and / or irritated skin, characterized in that A skin treatment agent according to any one of claims 1 to 9 is applied to the skin.