CN116459183A - Mild residue-free cleansing surfactant composition and use thereof - Google Patents

Mild residue-free cleansing surfactant composition and use thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN116459183A
CN116459183A CN202310303562.2A CN202310303562A CN116459183A CN 116459183 A CN116459183 A CN 116459183A CN 202310303562 A CN202310303562 A CN 202310303562A CN 116459183 A CN116459183 A CN 116459183A
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China
Prior art keywords
component
fermentation
mild
residue
surfactant composition
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CN202310303562.2A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
毕永贤
李�昊
杜雨涵
周浩淼
王凤霞
代晓艳
于亚鹏
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Zhejiang Yige Enterprise Management Group Co ltd
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Zhejiang Yige Enterprise Management Group Co ltd
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Priority to CN202310303562.2A priority Critical patent/CN116459183A/en
Publication of CN116459183A publication Critical patent/CN116459183A/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/85Polyesters
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/596Mixtures of surface active compounds
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02ATECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02A50/00TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
    • Y02A50/30Against vector-borne diseases, e.g. mosquito-borne, fly-borne, tick-borne or waterborne diseases whose impact is exacerbated by climate change

Abstract

The invention discloses a mild and residue-free cleansing surfactant composition and application thereof, wherein the cleansing surfactant composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 2-10 parts of a component A; 50-90 parts of a component B; 5-20 parts of a component C; 2-10 parts of a component D; the component A is at least one linear polyglycerin fatty acid ester with an HLB value of more than or equal to 10; the component B is at least one polyglycerin fatty acid ester or one polyglycerin fatty acid diester/triester with a branched structure; the component C is at least one surfactant which is derived from fermentation and contains EO groups; the component D is at least one vegetable oil and fat from fermentation source. The surfactant composition provided by the invention is green, safe, mild and free of stimulation on one hand, strong in makeup removing force, good in emulsification effect and good in compatibility with various oils and fats on the other hand.

Description

Mild residue-free cleansing surfactant composition and use thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to a surfactant composition, in particular to a mild and residue-free surfactant composition for cleansing and application thereof.
Background
The beauty of people, cosmetics play an increasingly important role in daily life of people nowadays, and accordingly, the need for makeup removal of cosmetics, especially makeup-type products, is also increasing. If no makeup removing work is done, residual makeup can be deposited on the skin, so that the skin is dull and shiny, dirt deposited on the surface can also block pores, the skin becomes rough and dull for a long time, and the problems of large pores, blackheads, closed acnes and the like are caused. The main makeup removing products in the market at present mainly comprise makeup removing water, makeup removing cream, makeup removing oil, makeup removing cream, makeup removing gel and the like. The principle of cleansing is mainly divided into two types, namely cleansing water products mainly containing surfactant, and the main principle is that the surfactant is used as a cleaning agent to form micelles to remove makeup. The other is an oil makeup removing product, and the main principle is to dissolve makeup with oil according to a similar compatible principle, so as to achieve the makeup removing effect. With the popularity of the concept of "nourishing skin with oil" in recent years, cleansing oil becomes a cleansing product favored by many consumers at present.
The cleansing oil mainly comprises oil and a surfactant. The makeup removing principle of the makeup removing oil is similar and compatible, and the makeup removing oil mainly comprises grease and toner, so the makeup can be removed in an oil removing mode, and the oil and water are emulsified rapidly after the makeup removing oil contacts with water by utilizing the action of the surfactant in the product, so that dirt of the oily makeup removing cosmetic is dispersed in the water and removed, and the purpose of makeup removing and cleaning is achieved. Most of the emulsifiers used in the main-stream cleansing oil in the market at present are PEG-type emulsifiers, which have good cleansing ability, but have large irritation, contain risk substances, have relatively low safety and cause environmental pollution and damage.
The polyglycerin fatty acid ester is a novel high-efficiency nonionic surfactant, is formed by esterifying glycerin and fatty acid at high temperature, and can be decomposed into glycerin and fat in the metabolic process, so that the glycerin and the fat are absorbed by a human body or discharged out of the body, and the polyglycerin fatty acid ester has high safety. The polyglycerol fatty acid ester can be used as cleaning cosmetic to avoid the generation of environmental pollutants. However, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester surfactant has weaker emulsifying capacity and poorer affinity than the traditional PEG surfactant, and the prepared cleansing product has poor use feeling when being singly used, and particularly has poor emulsifying effect on vegetable oil, slower emulsifying speed, residues after emulsification and poor use feeling. Therefore, there is a need for a make-up removing surfactant composition which is green, safe, mild, free of irritation, strong in make-up removing power, and good in emulsification effect.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a mild cleansing surfactant composition and application thereof. The surfactant composition provided by the invention is green, safe, mild and free of stimulation on one hand, strong in makeup removing force, good in emulsification effect and good in compatibility with various oils and fats on the other hand.
The technical scheme of the invention is as follows: the mild and residue-free cleansing surfactant composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 2-10 parts of a component A; 50-90 parts of a component B; 5-20 parts of a component C; 2-10 parts of a component D;
the component A is at least one linear polyglycerin fatty acid ester with an HLB value of more than or equal to 10;
the component B is at least one polyglycerin fatty acid ester or one polyglycerin fatty acid diester/triester with a branched structure;
the component C is at least one surfactant which is derived from fermentation and contains EO groups;
the component D is at least one vegetable oil and fat from fermentation source.
In the mild residue-free cleansing surfactant composition, the component A has 6-10 glycerol units and has an HLB value of 10-15; the component A is one or more of polyglycerol-6 caprylate, polyglycerol-10 laurate, polyglycerol-10 stearate and/or polyglycerol-10 oleate.
The component B in the mild and residue-free cleansing surfactant composition is one or more of polyglycerol-10 diisostearate, polyglycerol-3 diisostearate, polyglycerol-4 isostearate, polyglycerol-10 dioleate and/or polyglycerol-6 dicaprate.
In the mild and residue-free cleansing surfactant composition, the C component is one or more of PEG-7 glycerol cocoate, polysorbate-85 and/or PEG-6 caprylic/capric glyceride.
In the foregoing mild, residue-free cleansing surfactant composition, the C component contains EO groups generated using bioethanol.
The component D in the mild and residue-free cleansing surfactant composition is one or more of olive oil, rice germ oil, argania spinosa kernel oil, grape seed oil, sunflower seed oil and/or canola oil which are derived from fermentation.
In the mild and residue-free cleansing surfactant composition, the preparation process of the vegetable oil and fat from the fermentation source of the component D comprises the following steps:
1) Mixing vegetable oil, fermentation strain, culture medium and water, stirring and fermenting to obtain fermentation liquor;
2) Standing the fermentation liquor obtained in the step 1) for layering, removing the lower layer liquid, adding magnesium sulfate into the upper layer liquid for stirring, and then performing centrifugal separation again to remove microorganisms and moisture, wherein the obtained supernatant is a crude fermentation oil product;
3) Filtering the crude fermentation oil product by column chromatography to obtain the vegetable oil from fermentation source;
the fermentation strain is candida, the fermentation temperature is 15-25 ℃, and the fermentation time is 12-48 hours.
A method for preparing a mild, residue-free cleansing surfactant composition comprising the steps of:
A. heating the component A, the component B and the component C to 65-80 ℃ and stirring and mixing uniformly to obtain a product A;
B. and adding the component D into the product A, and stirring and mixing uniformly at 60-70 ℃ to obtain the mild and residue-free cleansing surfactant composition.
A cosmetic comprises the above-mentioned mild cleansing surfactant composition with no residue, and the amount of the surfactant composition is 8-20%.
Compared with the prior art, the invention matches 3 different types of surfactants with one fermentation source of vegetable oil, and obtains a warm and residue-free cleansing surfactant composition by matching the linear polyglycerol fatty acid surfactant with high HLB value and the polyglycerol fatty acid surfactant with branched chain or multiple fatty acid chains with the surfactant containing EO groups and the fermentation source of vegetable oil, and the obtained composition is applied to cleansing oil products, is mild and non-irritating, has good emulsification effect, has high emulsification speed and thorough emulsification, and can be used for particularly rapidly and thoroughly emulsifying the vegetable oil, thereby effectively avoiding the problems of secondary cleaning and acne caused by residual oil after cleansing. Specifically, the application adopts linear polyglycerin fatty acid ester and branched polyglycerin fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid with different chain lengths and different structures, and then the surfactant containing EO groups from fermentation sources is added to obtain the surfactant composition with high HLB value. The surfactant composition can be applied to cleansing oil, can improve the emulsifying capacity of the cleansing oil, especially the emulsifying capacity of vegetable oil, and can completely emulsify the grease for dissolving the makeup and the vegetable grease which is not easy to emulsify without secondary cleaning. In conclusion, the surfactant composition provided by the invention is green, safe, mild and free of irritation on one hand, and has strong cleansing power, good emulsifying effect and good compatibility with various oils on the other hand.
Detailed Description
The invention is further illustrated by the following examples, which are not intended to be limiting.
Example 1. Comprises the following components in parts by weight: 2-10 parts of a component A; 50-90 parts of a component B; 5-20 parts of a component C; 2-10 parts of a component D;
the component A is at least one linear polyglycerin fatty acid ester with an HLB value of more than or equal to 10;
the component B is at least one polyglycerin fatty acid ester or one polyglycerin fatty acid diester/triester with a branched structure;
the component C is at least one surfactant which is derived from fermentation and contains EO groups;
the component D is at least one vegetable oil and fat from fermentation source.
The component A has 6-10 glycerin units, and the HLB value is 10-15; the component A is one or more of polyglycerol-6 caprylate, polyglycerol-10 laurate, polyglycerol-10 stearate and/or polyglycerol-10 oleate.
The component B is one or more of polyglycerol-10 diisostearate, polyglycerol-3 diisostearate, polyglycerol-4 isostearate, polyglycerol-10 dioleate and/or polyglycerol-6 dicaprate.
The component C is one or more of PEG-7 glycerol cocoate, polysorbate-85 and/or PEG-6 caprylic/capric glyceride.
The C component contains EO groups generated using bioethanol.
The component D is one or more of olive fruit oil, rice germ oil, argania spinosa kernel oil, grape seed oil, sunflower seed oil and/or canola oil which are derived from fermentation.
The preparation process of the vegetable oil from the fermentation source of the component D comprises the following steps:
1) Mixing vegetable oil, fermentation strain, culture medium and water, stirring and fermenting to obtain fermentation liquor;
2) Standing the fermentation liquor obtained in the step 1) for layering, removing the lower layer liquid, adding magnesium sulfate into the upper layer liquid for stirring, and then performing centrifugal separation again to remove microorganisms and moisture, wherein the obtained supernatant is a crude fermentation oil product;
3) Filtering the crude fermentation oil product by column chromatography to obtain the vegetable oil from fermentation source;
the fermentation strain is candida, the fermentation temperature is 15-25 ℃, and the fermentation time is 12-48 hours.
A method for preparing a mild, residue-free cleansing surfactant composition comprising the steps of:
A. heating the component A, the component B and the component C to 65-80 ℃ and stirring and mixing uniformly to obtain a product A;
B. and adding the component D into the product A, and stirring and mixing uniformly at 60-70 ℃ to obtain the mild and residue-free cleansing surfactant composition.
A cosmetic comprises the above-mentioned mild cleansing surfactant composition with no residue, and the amount of the surfactant composition is 8-20%.
Example 2. Comprises the following components in parts by weight: 53 parts of polyglycerol-6 dicaprate; 28 parts of polyglycerol-10 dioleate; 4 parts of polyglycerol-6 caprylate; 8 parts of polysorbate-85; 4.55 parts of candida melissa/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate fermentation product; 2.45 parts of rice germ oil.
Comparative example 1:53 parts of polyglycerol-6 dicaprate; 28 parts of polyglycerol-10 dioleate, 4 parts of polyglycerol-6 caprylate; 4.55 parts of candida melissa/glucose/rapeseed methyl oleate fermentation product; 2.45 parts of rice germ oil.
Comparative example 2:53 parts of polyglycerol-6 dicaprate; 28 parts of polyglycerol-10 dioleate; 4 parts of polyglycerol-6 caprylate; 8 parts of polysorbate-85.
Experimental examples 1,2 and 3 were obtained by adding 30 parts of cetyl ethyl hexanoate, 30 parts of ethylhexyl palmitate, 10 parts of cocoyl-caprylate/caprate, 7.5 parts of olive oil, 5 parts of squalane, 5 parts of C13-14 alkane and 0.5 part of tocopherol (vitamin E) to each of example 2 and comparative examples 1 and 2.
Stability test:
the experimental examples were stored at 45 ℃, 25 ℃,5 ℃, -5 ℃ and-18 ℃ and the stability of each sample was observed for 1 month, 2 months and 3 months. Stability was determined by examining the need to meet the following 3 conditions simultaneously:
(1) The sample has no layering and color change when being stored in the environment of 45 ℃, 25 ℃,5 ℃ below zero and 18 ℃ below zero;
(2) The sample still keeps transparent flowing state when being stored in an environment of-5 ℃ and has no turbidity;
(3) After the sample stored in the temperature of minus 18 ℃ is restored to room temperature, the sample can be restored to a transparent flowing state, and the phenomenon of layering and color change does not occur.
Experimental example 1 Experimental example 2 Experimental example 3
25℃ By passing through By passing through By passing through
45℃ By passing through By passing through By passing through
5℃ By passing through By passing through By passing through
-5℃ By passing through By passing through Layering
-18℃ By passing through By passing through By passing through
In experimental examples 1 and 2, vegetable fats and oils from fermentation sources are added, so that the emulsifier composition with high HLB value has better compatibility with other fats and oils, and stability investigation is passed. In experimental example 3, the vegetable oil and fat from fermentation source was not added, and the compatibility of the high HLB value emulsifier composition with the oil and fat was not good, and delamination occurred at low temperature, failing to pass the stability investigation. Experimental results show that the cleansing surfactant composition prepared by the invention has good compatibility with various oils and fats, and has good stability when being applied to cleansing oil products.
Irritation test (patch experiment):
sample: experimental example 1 dilution with white oil to 1% concentration
Selecting 30 healthy volunteers with ages of 20-40, each volunteer having an area of no more than 50mm 2 A qualified plaque tester with the depth of about 1mm is prepared by taking 0.020-0.025mL of the experimental example 1 of the invention to be coated in the plaque tester to be used as an experimental group (namely a sample 1), and 0.020-0.025mL of white oil to be coated in the plaque tester to be used as a control group. The external special adhesive tape is applied to the forearm curved side of the volunteer, and the plaque tester is removed after 24 hours. Skin reactions of the experimental group and the control group were observed at 0.5h,24h, and 48h, respectively, after removing the patch, and the results were recorded according to the skin reaction classification standard in the cosmetic safety technical Specification (2015).
The test results show that 30 subjects use experiment example 1, and after the spot tester of the test object is removed, the score grades are 0 in 0.5h,24h and 48h, so that the cleansing surfactant composition is safe to use, mild and free of stimulation.
Emulsification capability test:
to 3 parts of 50g of water, 2.0g of each of the experimental examples was added dropwise, the self-emulsification rate was observed, and the mixture was stirred and left to stand for 24 hours to observe the emulsification.
Experimental example 1 Experimental example 2 Experimental example 3
Emulsification speed Quick-acting toy In general Quick-acting toy
Color of Blue-white Milky white Milky white
Unemulsified fat Without any means for A little Floating grease
In the experimental example 1, surfactants of different structures and vegetable oil from fermentation sources are adopted to be matched, so that the emulsion is applied to a cleansing oil product, has a good emulsifying effect, is quick in self-emulsifying speed, thorough in emulsifying, free of residues after emulsifying, small in emulsified particle size and easy to rinse.
Use of sensory test:
50 volunteers 20-50 years old were selected for at least 3 makeup cycles per week for 3 weeks of testing, with test example 1 for the first week, test example 2 for the second week, and test example 3 for the third week. In the test period, the volunteer takes the cleansing oil with the size of a unitary coin by hands every day when cleansing, performs full-face circling massage for about 1min, adds water to emulsify the circling massage for about 30s, and then washes the cleansing oil with warm water.
Freshness degree: 1-5 minutes, the oil feel is very heavy at 1 minute during massage, and the skin feel is fresh and cool at 5 minutes;
make-up removal force: 1-5 minutes, wherein the residual is 1 minute, and the total removal is 5 minutes;
residual feel: 1-5 minutes, wherein the oil feel residue is 1 minute, and the refreshing residue is 5 minutes;
emulsification speed: 1-5 parts, wherein the emulsification speed is 1 minute, and the emulsification speed is 5 minutes.
Evaluation index Experimental example 1 Experimental example 2 Experimental example 3
Fresh and cool degree 4.12 3.98 3.78
Make-up removing force 4.17 3.56 3.98
Feeling of residue 4.43 3.89 3.23
Emulsification speed 4.21 3.76 3.98
Experimental results show that the invention adopts the combination of surfactants of different structures and vegetable oil from fermentation sources, has good emulsification effect when applied to cleansing oil products, has high self-emulsification speed, is thoroughly emulsified, has no residue after emulsification and is easy to wash.

Claims (9)

1. The mild and residue-free cleansing surfactant composition is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight: 2-10 parts of a component A; 50-90 parts of a component B; 5-20 parts of a component C; 2-10 parts of a component D;
the component A is at least one linear polyglycerin fatty acid ester with an HLB value of more than or equal to 10;
the component B is at least one polyglycerin fatty acid ester or one polyglycerin fatty acid diester/triester with a branched structure;
the component C is at least one surfactant which is derived from fermentation and contains EO groups;
the component D is at least one vegetable oil and fat from fermentation source.
2. The mild residue-free cleansing surfactant composition according to claim 1, wherein: the component A has 6-10 glycerin units, and the HLB value is 10-15; the component A is one or more of polyglycerol-6 caprylate, polyglycerol-10 laurate, polyglycerol-10 stearate and/or polyglycerol-10 oleate.
3. The mild residue-free cleansing surfactant composition according to claim 1, wherein: the component B is one or more of polyglycerol-10 diisostearate, polyglycerol-3 diisostearate, polyglycerol-4 isostearate, polyglycerol-10 dioleate and/or polyglycerol-6 dicaprate.
4. The mild residue-free cleansing surfactant composition according to claim 1, wherein: the component C is one or more of PEG-7 glycerol cocoate, polysorbate-85 and/or PEG-6 caprylic/capric glyceride.
5. The mild residue-free cleansing surfactant composition according to claim 4, wherein: the C component contains EO groups generated using bioethanol.
6. The mild residue-free cleansing surfactant composition according to claim 1, wherein: the component D is one or more of olive fruit oil, rice germ oil, argania spinosa kernel oil, grape seed oil, sunflower seed oil and/or canola oil which are derived from fermentation.
7. The mild, residue-free cleansing surfactant composition according to claim 1, wherein the process for preparing the vegetable fat of fermentation origin of the D component comprises:
1) Mixing vegetable oil, fermentation strain, culture medium and water, stirring and fermenting to obtain fermentation liquor;
2) Standing the fermentation liquor obtained in the step 1) for layering, removing the lower layer liquid, adding magnesium sulfate into the upper layer liquid for stirring, and then performing centrifugal separation again to remove microorganisms and moisture, wherein the obtained supernatant is a crude fermentation oil product;
3) Filtering the crude fermentation oil product by column chromatography to obtain the vegetable oil from fermentation source;
the fermentation strain is candida, the fermentation temperature is 15-25 ℃, and the fermentation time is 12-48 hours.
8. A process for preparing a mild residue-free make-up removing surfactant composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized by comprising the steps of:
A. heating the component A, the component B and the component C to 65-80 ℃ and stirring and mixing uniformly to obtain a product A;
B. and adding the component D into the product A, and stirring and mixing uniformly at 60-70 ℃ to obtain the mild and residue-free cleansing surfactant composition.
9. A cosmetic product characterized by: a mild residue free make-up removing surfactant composition comprising the composition of any one of claims 1 to 7 in an amount of 8 to 20%.
CN202310303562.2A 2023-03-27 2023-03-27 Mild residue-free cleansing surfactant composition and use thereof Pending CN116459183A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN202310303562.2A CN116459183A (en) 2023-03-27 2023-03-27 Mild residue-free cleansing surfactant composition and use thereof

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN202310303562.2A CN116459183A (en) 2023-03-27 2023-03-27 Mild residue-free cleansing surfactant composition and use thereof

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
CN116459183A true CN116459183A (en) 2023-07-21

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ID=87174332

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
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