CN114599335A

CN114599335A - Composition for cleaning and/or removing make-up from keratin materials

Info

Publication number: CN114599335A
Application number: CN201980098845.XA
Authority: CN
Inventors: J·刘
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2019-07-26
Filing date: 2019-07-26
Publication date: 2022-06-07
Also published as: WO2021016729A1; CN114599335A8

Abstract

To a composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, comprising, in an aqueous phase: a) at least one kind of nano carbon particle; b) at least one acrylate copolymer; and c) at least one surfactant. Also relates to a method for cleaning and/or removing make-up from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising applying the composition to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, and rinsing off the composition after a random period of time.

Description

Composition for cleaning and/or removing make-up from keratin materials

Technical Field

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, in particular for cleaning and/or removing makeup from keratin materials. The invention also relates to a method for cleaning and/or removing makeup from keratin materials using said composition.

Background

Cleansing or removing makeup from the skin is very important for caring for the skin. It must be as effective as possible, since greasy residues (for example excess sebum), residues of cosmetic and make-up products in daily use (in particular water-repellent products) accumulate in the folds of the skin and can block the pores of the skin and lead to the appearance of spots.

Several types of skin cleansing or make-up removal products are known, such as flushable anhydrous oils and gels, foaming creams and lotions (lotions).

Flushable anhydrous oils and gels have a cleansing or makeup removing effect by virtue of the oils present in these formulations. These oils make it possible to dissolve the fatty residues and to disperse the cosmetic pigments. These products are effective and well tolerated.

However, they exhibit the disadvantages of being massive, not foaming and not imparting a freshness sensation upon application, which is disadvantageous from a cosmetic point of view. Furthermore, this type of product requires that the hands be dry when applied to the skin. Therefore, the process is inconvenient.

Foaming creams, lotions and gels, on the other hand, have a cleansing or makeup-removing effect by virtue of surfactants, which suspend fatty residues on the skin. Because they foam and they are easy to remove, they are effective and pleasant to use.

Recently, cleansing or makeup removing products (especially facial cleansing or makeup removing compositions) having a black appearance have attracted much attention in the market.

To present a black appearance, some products contain a combination of red, yellow and blue pigments. However, red, yellow and blue pigments fade under UV irradiation or at 45 ℃. Some products that exhibit a black appearance contain charcoal. However, common charcoal easily deposits and accumulates in the product.

Micellar water (micella water) on the market is popular due to their low viscosity and fluid texture.

There is no product with a low viscosity, like micellar water, which has a black appearance.

Therefore, there is a need to formulate compositions for cleansing or removing makeup from keratin materials that have a low viscosity, such as micellar water, black appearance, with long-term stability.

Summary of The Invention

The inventors have found that such a need can be met by the present invention.

Thus, according to one aspect, the present invention relates to a composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, comprising, in an aqueous phase:

a) at least one nanocarbon particle;

b) at least one acrylate copolymer; and

c) at least one surfactant.

The composition according to the invention presents a fluid texture like that of micellar water on the market.

The composition according to the invention also provides good cleaning and/or makeup removal performance during application.

It can be used as daily facial cleanser and/or makeup remover. The compositions of the present invention are rinse-off products. Thus, such compositions may be applied to the skin (i.e., face and/or body) and then rinsed with rinse water.

According to another aspect, the present invention provides a method for cleansing and/or removing make-up from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising applying to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, a composition according to the invention and rinsing off the composition after a random period of time.

Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear even more clearly on reading the following (detailed) description and examples.

Brief Description of Drawings

The details and advantages of the present invention will be illustrated in more detail with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

figure 1 shows the viscosity over time of the composition of inventive formulation 1 of example 1.

Detailed Description

Hereinafter and unless otherwise indicated, the upper and lower limits of the range of values are included in the range, especially in the expressions "between … …" and "in the range … … to … …".

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is intended to cover the skin, mucous membranes, such as the lips, of a human. According to the invention, facial skin is most particularly considered.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "micellar water" is intended to mean a composition having a texture very similar to that of water, more particularly a viscosity very close to that of water.

More particularly, the viscosity of the micellar water as defined in the present invention is lower than or equal to 500 mPas, preferably lower than or equal to 200 mPas, more preferably lower than or equal to 100 mPas and even more preferably lower than or equal to 50 mPas. For example, the micelle water of the present invention has a viscosity of 1.2 mPas.

Furthermore, the expression "at least one" as used in the present specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

Throughout this application, the expression "comprising" should be interpreted as covering all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features.

As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses embodiments in which no features other than those specifically mentioned are present (i.e., "consisting of … …").

According to one aspect, the present invention relates to a composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, comprising, in an aqueous phase:

a) at least one kind of nano carbon particle;

b) at least one acrylate copolymer; and

c) at least one surfactant.

Nano carbon particles

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one nanocarbon particle.

Preferably, the volume median particle size Dv50 of the nanocarbon particles is less than 200 nm.

Volume median Particle size Dv50 is a Particle size distribution parameter, meaning the maximum Particle size below which 50% of the sample volume is present (see a Basic Guide To Particle Characterization, page 10, published by Malvern Instruments Limited 2012).

The volume particle size Dv50 of the nanocarbon particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size meter, such as a MasterSizer 3000 machine from Malvern. Data were processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine the "effective" particle size in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in the publication "Light Scattering by Small Particles," chapter 9 and 10 (Wiley, new york, 1957) by Van de Hulst, h.c.

As an example of a commercial product of the nanocarbon particles suitable for the composition according to the present invention, there may be mentioned carbon black available under the trade name WD-CB2 from Daito Kasei Kogyo, Ltd, osaka, japan.

Advantageously, the nanocarbon particles are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.0001 wt.% to 0.01 wt.%, preferably from 0.0002 wt.% to 0.005 wt.%, more preferably from 0.0003 wt.% to 0.001 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

Acrylate copolymers

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one acrylate copolymer.

Preferably, the acrylate copolymer is selected from crosslinked copolymers containing at least one monomer selected from: methacrylic acid; acrylic acid; aminoacrylic acid; acrylic acid C₈-C₃₀Alkyl or alkenyl esters, C₈-C₃₀The alkyl or alkenyl groups may be substituted; methacrylic acid C₈-C₃₀Alkyl or alkenyl ester of this formula C₈-C₃₀The alkyl or alkenyl groups may be substituted; acrylic acid C₁-C₄Alkyl esters and methacrylic acid C₁-C₄Alkyl ester (a C)₁-C₄ alkyl acrylate and a C₁-C₄methacrylate), the compound C₁-C₄The alkyl group may be substituted.

Mention may in particular be made of monomers comprising at least one methacrylic acid unitA unit and at least one acrylic acid C₁-C₄A crosslinked copolymer of alkyl ester units. Comprising at least one methacrylic acid unit and at least one acrylic acid C₁-C₄By crosslinked copolymer of alkyl ester units is meant a crosslinked copolymer comprising at least one methacrylic acid unit and at least one alkyl acrylate unit, wherein the alkyl acrylate is selected from the group consisting of C acrylic acid₁-C₄An alkyl ester.

In the crosslinked copolymers disclosed herein, the at least one methacrylic acid unit may be present in an amount ranging from 20 to 80 weight percent, such as from 25 to 70 weight percent, and further such as from 35 to 60 weight percent, relative to the total weight of the copolymer.

In the crosslinked copolymers disclosed herein, the at least one alkyl acrylate unit may be present in an amount ranging from 15 to 80 weight percent, such as from 25 to 75 weight percent, and further such as from 40 to 65 weight percent, relative to the total weight of the copolymer. The alkyl acrylate may, for example, be selected from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate and butyl acrylate. In one embodiment, the alkyl acrylate is ethyl acrylate.

The copolymers disclosed herein are partially or fully crosslinked with at least one crosslinking agent. The at least one cross-linking agent may be chosen, for example, from polyunsaturated compounds, such as polyethylenically unsaturated compounds. These compounds can be selected, for example, from the group consisting of polyalkenyl ethers of sucrose, polyalkenyl ethers of polyhydric alcohols, diallyl phthalate, divinylbenzene, allyl (meth) acrylate, ethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, trimethylolpropane tri (meth) acrylate, diallyl itaconate, diallyl fumarate, diallyl maleate, zinc (meth) acrylate, castor oil derivatives and polyhydric alcohol derivatives prepared from unsaturated carboxylic acids.

The at least one crosslinking agent that may also be used includes, for example, an unsaturated monomer comprising at least one reactive group capable of reacting with an unsaturated moiety (unsaturation) to form a crosslinked copolymer.

The content of the at least one crosslinking agent is typically in the range of 0.01 to 5wt. -%, such as 0.03 to 3wt. -%, and further such as 0.05 to 1wt. -%, relative to the total weight of the copolymer.

According to one embodiment, the at least one crosslinked copolymer disclosed herein may, for example, be in the form of an aqueous dispersion. The number average size of the copolymer particles in the dispersion is typically in the range of from 10nm to 500nm, for example from 20nm to 200nm, and further for example from 50nm to 150 nm.

These copolymers are described, for example, in patent application No. WO 01/76552.

For example, those manufactured by LUBRIZOL corporation and known by the name LUBRIZOL may be used

Cross-linked methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer sold by Aqua SF-1 as a 30% aqueous dispersion of the active.

Advantageously, the at least one acrylate copolymer is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.005 to 0.25 wt.%, preferably from 0.01 to 0.15 wt.%, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

The inventors have found that the acrylate copolymers used enable the suspension of the nanocarbon particles with long-term stability and with virtually no viscosity change, so that the compositions according to the invention retain a fluid texture.

Due to the fluid texture, the composition spreads easily.

By "long-term stability" is understood a composition according to the invention which does not exhibit any macroscopic change in colour, odour or viscosity, does not exhibit any change in pH or does not exhibit any change in microscopic appearance after storage for 2 months at any temperature between 4 ℃ and 45 ℃.

Surface active agent

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant.

As surfactants suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

Advantageously, the total amount of surfactant present in the composition ranges from 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt.%, more preferably from 0.5 to 4 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

Nonionic surfactant

The nonionic surfactant is selected from alcohol, alpha-diol and (C)_1-20) Alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly being in the range from 1 to 100 and the number of glycerol groups possibly being in the range from 2 to 30; and/or these compounds comprise at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

According to the invention, it is possible in particular to use surfactants (used alone or as a mixture) having an HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) greater than or equal to 8, more in particular greater than or equal to 10HLB, preferably greater than or equal to 13HLB, in the Griffin sense at 25 ℃.

The HLB value according to Griffin is defined in J.Soc.cosm.chem.1954 (volume 5), page 249-256.

Mention may be made in particular of:

monosaccharide esters and ethers, such as cetearyl glucoside in admixture with cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, e.g. Montanov 68 from Seppic;

-oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers of glycerol (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups); oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers of fatty alcohols (in particular C8-C24 alcohols and preferably C12-C18 alcohols), which may contain from 1 to 150 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups, such as the oxyethylenated ether of cetearyl alcohol containing 30 ethylene oxide groups (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30 (Ceteaeth-30)"), the oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol containing 20 ethylene oxide groups (CTFA name "Steareth-20 (Steareth-20)") and the name given by Shell ChemicalsCalled Neodol

The commercially available oxyethylenated ethers of C12-C15 fatty alcohol mixtures containing 7 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "C12-15 alkanol polyether-7 (012-15 Pareth-7)");

esters of fatty acids (in particular C8-C24 acids and preferably C16-C22 acids) with polyethylene glycols (which may comprise from 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units), for example under the name Myrj by ICI Uniquema

PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate sold;

fatty acids (especially C)₈-C₂₄Acid and preferably C₁₆-C₂₂Acid) with an oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ether (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups), for example under the name Simulsol by Seppic

PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate sold; polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate containing 30 ethylene oxide groups, e.g. Tagat, the product sold by Goldschmidt

Polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate containing 30 ethylene oxide groups, for example the product Tagat sold by Goldschmidt

Polyethoxylated cocoglycerides containing 30 oxyethylene groups, e.g. the product Varionic LI sold by Sherex

Polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate comprising 30 ethylene oxide groups, for example from GoldschmidTagat product sold by Tsale

And polyethoxylated laurin esters containing 30 oxyethylene groups, e.g. Tagat, a product from Goldschmidt

Esters of fatty acids, especially C8-C24 acids and preferably C16-C22 acids, with oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers which may contain from 1 to 150 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups, are commonly referred to as "carbohydrate-based esters (CBEs)". Examples of such carbohydrate-based esters are, but are not limited to, for example polysorbate 20, by Croda under the name

Selling; polysorbate 21 by Croda

Selling; or polysorbate 60, by Croda

Selling; dimethicone copolyols, for example as known by Dow Corning

The one sold; dimethicone copolyol benzoate (Finsolv SLB from Fintex)

And

). Examples of such surfactants are provided in US 2012/042894 (incorporated herein by reference).

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from block copolymer surfactants, also known as polycondensate surfactants of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, and more particularly copolymers consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks, such as polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock copolymers (polycondensates). These triblock polycondensates have, for example, the following chemical structure:

H—(O—CH₂—CH₂)_a—(O—CH(CH₃)—CH₂)_b—(O—CH₂—CH₂)_a—OH

in the formula, a is in the range of 2 to 150 and b is in the range of 1 to 100; preferably, a is in the range of 10 to 130 and b is in the range of 20 to 80.

The weight average molecular weight of the block copolymer (polycondensate) surfactant of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide is preferably in the range from 1000 to 20000, still more preferably in the range from 1500 to 19000, especially in the range from 2000 to 18000, even still more preferably in the range from 4000 to 17000.

As block copolymer (polycondensate) surfactants of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide which may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold by Croda under the name "Synperonic", for example "

PE/F32 "(INCI name: Poloxamer 108)," (R) "

PE/F108 "(INCI name: Poloxamer 338)," (R-R) "

PE/L44 (INCI name: Poloxamer 124),) "

PE/L42 (INCI name: Poloxamer 122),) "

PE/F127 "(INCI name: Poloxamer 407)," (R-X) "

PE/F88 "(INCI name: Poloxamer 238) or"

PE/L64 "(INCI name: Poloxamer 184); or also sold by BASF "

F68 "(INCI name: Poloxamer 188).

Advantageously, if present, the nonionic surfactant is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt.%, more preferably from 0.2 to 2 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

Anionic surfactants

The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

In the present description, a substance (species) is referred to as "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged substance, under the conditions (e.g. medium or pH) under which the composition of the invention is used and without including any cationic charge.

The anionic surfactant is preferably selected from the group consisting of sulfonate surfactants and carboxylate surfactants. Needless to say, a mixture of these surfactants may be used.

In the present description it should be understood that:

carboxylate anionic surfactants comprising at least one carboxyl or carboxylate functional group (-COOH or-COO)^-) And may optionally further comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functional groups;

the sulfonate anionic surfactant comprises at least one sulfonate function (-SO)₃H or-SO₃ ^-) And may optionally further comprise one or more sulfate functional groups, but not any carboxylic acidA root functional group.

Thus, carboxylic acid (salt) anionic surfactants that may be used contain at least one carboxyl or carboxylate functional group (-COOH or-COO)^-)。

They may be selected from the following compounds: acyl lactyl lactate (acyllactylate), alkyl ether carboxylic acid, alkyl (C)₆-C₃₀Aryl) ether carboxylic acids and salts of these compounds;

the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, still better still from 14 to 24 carbon atoms or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; aryl preferably represents phenyl or benzyl; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and thus preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, still more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used contain at least one sulfonate functional group (-SO)₃H or-SO₃ ^–)。

They may be selected from the following compounds: alkyl sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, N-acyl taurates, acyl isethionates; alkyl sulfolaurate salts; and salts of these compounds;

the alkyl groups of these compounds contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 28 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 24 carbon atoms or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; aryl preferably represents phenyl or benzyl;

these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and still more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

When the anionic surfactant is in the form of a salt, the salt may be selected from alkali metal salts (e.g. sodium or potassium salts), ammonium salts, amine salts (and especially amino alcohol salts), and alkaline earth metal salts (e.g. magnesium salts). Examples of amino alkoxides which may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane salts. Preference is given to using alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts, and especially sodium salts or magnesium salts.

Preferably, the anionic surfactants, alone or as a mixture, are selected from:

acyl lactyl lactate, especially C₁₂-C₂₈Or even C₁₄-C₂₄Acyl lactylates such as behenyl lactylate, and especially sodium behenyl lactylate;

-C₆-C₂₄(and especially C)₁₂-C₂₀) N-acyl taurates;

-(C₆-C₂₄) Alkyl ether carboxylates, and especially (C)₁₂-C₂₀) An alkyl ether carboxylate;

-C₆-C₂₄(and especially C)₁₂-C₂₀) Alkyl sulfosuccinates, in particular lauryl sulfosuccinate, especially sodium salt;

-C₆-C₂₄(and especially C)₁₂-C₂₀) Alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, in particular lauryl sulfosuccinate, which are oxyethylenated, in particular with 3 EO, in particular the sodium salt;

-(C₆-C₂₄) Acyl isethionates, preferably (C)₁₂-C₁₈) Acyl isethionates, and most especially cocoyl isethionic acid, especially sodium salt;

-C₆-C₂₄(and especially C)₁₂-C₂₀) An alkyl sulfoacetate;

especially in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or aminoalcohol salts.

In one embodiment, the anionic surfactant is selected from C₆-C₂₄(and especially C)₁₂-C₂₀) Alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, in particular lauryl sulfosuccinate, which are oxyethylenated, in particular with 3 EO, in particular the sodium salt, preferably disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, which can be obtained from the BASF company under the name TEXAPON SB 3UNKONS is commercially available.

Advantageously, the anionic surfactant, if present, is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt.% to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.1wt.% to 5 wt.%, more preferably from 0.1wt.% to 2 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant may be, for example, an amine derivative such as an aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine; and optionally quaternized amine derivatives, wherein the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (e.g. carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate).

The amphoteric surfactant may preferably be selected from betaines and amidoamine carboxylated derivatives.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is selected from betaine type surfactants.

The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkyl betaines, alkylamidoalkyl betaines, sulfobetaines (sulfobetaines), phosphobetaines (phosphobetaines) and alkylamidoalkyl sulfobetaines, especially (C)₈-C₂₄) Alkyl betaines, (C)₈-C₂₄) Alkylamide group (C)₁-C₈) Alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines and (C)₈-C₂₄) Alkylamide group (C)₁-C₈) An alkyl sulfobetaine. In one embodiment, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is selected from (C)₈-C₂₄) Alkyl betaines, (C)₈-C₂₄) Alkylamide group (C)₁-C₈) Alkyl sultaines, sultaines and phosphate betaines.

Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include compounds (alone or as a mixture) classified under the following names in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook) (15 th edition, 2014): coco betaine, lauryl betaine, cetyl betaine, coco/oleamidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, palmitamidopropyl betaine, stearamidopropyl betaine, cocamidoethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, oleamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, cocoyl hydroxysultaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, and cocoyl sultaine.

The betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are preferably alkyl betaines and alkylamidoalkyl betaines, in particular coco betaines and cocamidopropyl betaines.

Among the amidoamine carboxylated derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in U.S. Pat. nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified under the names amphocarboxyglycinate and amphocarboxypropionate in the CTFA dictionary (3 rd edition, 1982), the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference, the corresponding structures of which are:

R₁-CONHCH₂CH₂-N⁺(R₂)(R₃)(CH₂COO^-)M⁺X^-(B1)

wherein:

R₁denotes the acid R present in the hydrolysed coconut oil₁-alkyl, heptyl, nonyl or undecyl of COOH,

R₂represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and is represented by,

R₃represents a carboxyl group, and represents a carboxymethyl group,

M⁺represents a cation derived from an alkali metal (e.g., sodium); an ammonium ion; or ions derived from organic amines;

X^-denotes an organic or inorganic anion, e.g. halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, alkyl (C)₁-C₄) Sulfate radical, alkyl (C)₁-C₄) Sulfonate or alkyl (C)₁-C₄) Arylsulfonates, especially methylsulfates and ethylsulfates; or M⁺And X^-Is absent;

R₁'-CONHCH₂CH₂-N(B)(C)(B2)

wherein:

R₁' denotes the acid R present in coconut oil or hydrolysed linseed oil₁' -alkyl of COOH; alkyl radicals, e.g. C₇Alkyl radical, C₉Alkyl radical, C₁₁Alkyl or C₁₃Alkyl radical, C₁₇Alkyl and isomeric forms thereof, or unsaturated C₁₇The radical(s) is (are),

b represents-CH₂CH₂OX'，

C represents- (CH)₂)_z-Y', wherein z is 1 or 2,

x' represents-CH₂-COOH group, -CH₂-COOZ’、-CH₂CH₂-COOH、-CH₂CH₂-COOZ' or a hydrogen atom, and

y 'represents-COOH, -COOZ', -CH₂-CHOH-SO₃Z’、-CH₂-CHOH-SO₃H group or-CH₂-CH(OH)-SO₃-a group Z' having a structure represented by,

wherein Z' represents an ion of an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal (e.g. sodium), an ion derived from an organic amine, or an ammonium ion; and

R_a”-NH-CH(Y”)-(CH₂)_n-C(O)-NH-(CH₂)_n’-N(Rd)(Re)(B’2)

wherein:

y 'represents-C (O) OH, -C (O) OZ', -CH₂-CH(OH)-SO₃H or-CH₂-CH(OH)-SO₃-Z ", wherein Z" represents a cation derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal (e.g. sodium), an ion derived from an organic amine or an ammonium ion;

rd and Re represent C₁-C₄Alkyl or C₁-C₄A hydroxyalkyl group;

R_a"represents C₁₀-C₃₀Alkyl or alkenyl, and

n and n' independently represent an integer of 1 to 3.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants having the formulae B1 and B2 are selected from (C)₈-C₂₄) Alkyl ampho monoacetate, (C)₈-C₂₄) Alkyl amphodiacetate salt (C)₈-C₂₄) Alkyl ampho monopropionates and (C)₈-C₂₄) Alkyl amphodipropionate.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary (5 th edition, 1993) under the following names: disodium cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium decanoamphodiacetate (sodium decanoamphodiacetate), Disodium octanoamphodiacetate (sodium decanoamphodiacetate), Disodium cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium lauroamphopropionate, Disodium decanoamphodipropionate (sodium decanoamphodipropionate), amphodipropionate, and cocoamphodipropionate.

By way of example, mention may be made of the trade name obtained by Rhodia Chimie

C2M concentrate sold cocoamphodiacetate.

Among the compounds of formula (B' 2), mention may be made of the sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoyl asparagine (CTFA) sold by CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

Advantageously, the amphoteric surfactant, if present, is present in the composition in an amount such that, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention: 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 2 wt.%.

Aqueous phase

The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one aqueous phase.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is an aqueous solution.

The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, such as C₂-C₈Lower polyols or monohydric alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

The term "polyol" is understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include diols such as butanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, octylene glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerol) and polyethylene glycol.

The aqueous phase may constitute from 70 wt.% to 99 wt.%, more preferably from 80 wt.% to 98.5 wt.%, and even more preferably from 85 wt.% to 98.5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional ingredients

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additional ingredients selected from those conventionally used in skin care products.

The composition according to the invention may comprise any of the following additives: chelating agents (e.g., EDTA and salts thereof, e.g., disodium EDTA); an antioxidant; biological extracts (e.g., Ribes nigrum (Ribes nigrum) bud extracts); an antibacterial agent; fragrances (e.g., perfumes, essential oils); thickeners (e.g., ethylene glycol distearate); and cationic preservatives (e.g., myristyl trimethyl ammonium bromide).

The type and amount of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the invention can be adjusted by the skilled person by routine manipulation such that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, comprising, in an aqueous phase, with respect to the total weight of the composition:

a)0.0003 to 0.001 wt.% of at least one nanocarbon particle having a volume median particle size of less than 200 nm;

b)0.01 to 0.1wt.% of at least one acrylate copolymer selected from the group comprising at least one methacrylic acid unit and at least one acrylic acid C₁-C₄A crosslinked copolymer of alkyl ester units; and

c)0.2 to 2 wt.% of a block copolymer (polycondensate) surfactant of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide and 0.1 to 2 wt.% of an amphoteric surfactant selected from (C)₈-C₂₄) Alkyl amphoacetates、(C₈-C₂₄) Alkyl amphodiacetate salt (C)₈-C₂₄) Alkyl ampho monopropionates and (C)₈-C₂₄) Alkyl amphodipropionate.

Method and use

The composition according to the invention can be used in a method for cleansing keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, by application to the keratin materials.

The composition according to the invention is micellar water.

The composition according to the invention presents a fluid texture.

By "fluid texture" is meant that the viscosity of the composition is less than 2 mpa-s.

For viscosity measurements, a rheometer (Rheometry, Anton Paar) can be used. The viscosity ((mPa · S) was automatically calculated from the shear stress in the (prescribed) time.

The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means that enables uniform distribution, in particular using a finger or a cotton ball, and can be removed by rinsing with water.

The compositions according to the invention provide good cleaning and/or makeup removal performance during application.

By "good cleansing and/or makeup removal performance" is meant that the composition not only effectively removes makeup but also deeply cleans the skin while providing anti-soiling benefits.

Thus, according to another aspect, the present invention relates to a method for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising applying to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, a composition according to the invention and rinsing off said composition after a random period of time.

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given as non-limiting examples.

The percentages are by weight of the active ingredient.

In the following examples, the weight percentages are indicated with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Examples

Example 1: preparation of the composition

Compositions according to the inventive formulation (inv.) and according to the comparative formulation (comp.) were prepared comprising the ingredients shown in table 1, wherein all amounts are expressed as weight percentage of active substance relative to the total weight of the respective composition.

TABLE 1

The preparation method comprises the following steps:

the composition was prepared as follows:

1. dissolving disodium EDTA, glycerol and poloxamer 184 in the water phase, mixing and heating to 55 ℃;

2. adding disodium cocoyl amphodiacetate;

3. adding myristyl trimethyl ammonium bromide and hexanediol;

4. cooling to 30 ℃;

5. adding Ribes nigrum (Ribes nigrum) (blackcurrant) bud extract (if present), acrylate copolymer or xanthan gum (if present), carbon black 2 (and) laureth-21/CI 77266 (and) laureth-21 (if present);

6. the pH of the formulation was adjusted to 7-7.5 with sodium hydroxide.

Example 2: evaluation of the composition

The viscosity of the composition of the inventive formulation (Inv.1) and water was measured in parallel and the results are shown in FIG. 1.

As shown in fig. 1, the composition of the inventive formulation (inv.1) had a fluid texture like water.

Stability was measured after 1 month storage at 4 ℃, 25 ℃ (room temperature or RT), 40 ℃ or 45 ℃.

Stability tests were also carried out under the sun test and during several cycles.

The stability under sunlight test was carried out by leaving the inventive cosmetic composition in the Suntest CPS + produced by Atlas for 24 hours.

The cycling stability test was performed with one cycle of-20 ℃ to 20 ℃ every 24 hours for 10 days.

The compositions according to the inventive formulation and the compositions according to the comparative formulation listed above were evaluated for cleaning performance and freshness sensation.

The procedure is as follows:

each composition was left at home for 2 days;

10 women aged 18-35 years, all skin types, cosmetic users, all requiring deep cleansing;

use of makeup remover (remove water) for at least 5 days per week;

half of the face was cleaned with the composition according to inventive formulation 1(inv.1) to be tested and half of the face with the composition according to comparative formulation 2 (comp.2);

evaluate cleaning performance and freshness sensation.

The cleansing power (makeup removing power) and fresh feeling (including fresh texture, skin smoothness (skin finish), moisturizing feeling) were scored and averaged by 10 consumers based on the following criteria.

Score of
		1	Very poor
2	Difference (D)
		3	In general
4	Good taste
		5	Is very good

The results of the evaluation are as follows:

N/A not measured

It can be seen that the composition according to inventive formula 1 has a good fresh feel and cleaning ability (makeup removal ability). Furthermore, the composition according to inventive formula 1 is stable for at least 2 menses.

Claims

1. Composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, comprising, in an aqueous phase:

a) at least one kind of nano carbon particle;

b) at least one acrylate copolymer; and

c) at least one surfactant.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the nanocarbon particles have a volume median particle size Dv50 of less than 200 nm.

3. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition is micellar water.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the nanocarbon particles are present in an amount in the range of from 0.0001 wt.% to 0.01 wt.%, preferably from 0.0002 wt.% to 0.005 wt.%, more preferably from 0.0003 wt.% to 0.001 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. According to any one of claims 1 to 4The composition of (a), wherein the acrylate copolymer is selected from crosslinked copolymers comprising at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of: methacrylic acid; acrylic acid; aminoacrylic acid; acrylic acid C₈-C₃₀Alkyl or alkenyl esters, said C₈-C₃₀The alkyl or alkenyl groups may be substituted; methacrylic acid C₈-C₃₀Alkyl or alkenyl esters, said C₈-C₃₀The alkyl or alkenyl groups may be substituted; acrylic acid C₁-C₄Alkyl esters and methacrylic acid C₁-C₄Alkyl esters of the formula C₁-C₄The alkyl group may be substituted.

6. The composition of claim 5, wherein the acrylate copolymer is selected from the group consisting of copolymers comprising at least one methacrylic acid unit and at least one acrylic acid C₁-C₄A crosslinked copolymer of alkyl ester units.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the at least one acrylate copolymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.005 to 0.25 wt.%, preferably from 0.01 to 0.15 wt.%, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the surfactant is selected from the group consisting of nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

9. The composition of claim 8, wherein:

the nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of condensation polymer surfactants of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide;

the anionic surfactant is chosen from surfactants comprising at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or-COO)^-) And optionally a carboxylate anionic surfactant comprising one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functional groups; and comprises at least one sulfonic acidRoot function (-SO)₃H or-SO₃ ^-) And optionally sulfonate anionic surfactants containing one or more sulfate functional groups, but not containing any carboxylate functional groups;

the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is selected from (C)₈-C₂₄) Alkyl ampho monoacetate, (C)₈-C₂₄) Alkyl amphodiacetate salt (C)₈-C₂₄) Alkyl ampho monopropionates and (C)₈-C₂₄) Alkyl amphodipropionate.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the total amount of surfactant present ranges from 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt.%, more preferably from 0.5 to 4 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 8 to 10, wherein the nonionic surfactant is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt.%, more preferably from 0.2 to 2 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 8 to 11, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt.%, more preferably from 0.1 to 2 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the aqueous phase constitutes from 70 wt.% to 99 wt.%, more preferably from 80 wt.% to 98.5 wt.%, and even more preferably from 85 wt.% to 98.5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition for cleansing keratin materials and/or for removing makeup from keratin materials, comprising, in an aqueous phase, with respect to the total weight of the composition:

a)0.0003 to 0.001 wt.% of at least one nanocarbon particle having a volume median particle size Dv50 of less than 200 nm;

c)0.2 to 2 wt.% of a block copolymer (polycondensate) surfactant of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide and 0.1 to 2 wt.% of an amphoteric surfactant selected from (C)₈-C₂₄) Alkyl ampho monoacetate, (C)₈-C₂₄) Alkyl amphodiacetate salt (C)₈-C₂₄) Alkyl ampho monopropionates and (C)₈-C₂₄) Alkyl amphodipropionate.

15. Method for cleansing and/or removing make-up from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 and the rinsing off of the composition after a random period of time.