CN110801411A

CN110801411A - Moisturizing, moisturizing and whitening emulsion and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN110801411A
Application number: CN201910982312.XA
Authority: CN
Inventors: 谢佩明; 刘婧
Original assignee: Guangzhou Yihui Biotechnology Co Ltd
Current assignee: Liu Jianhui
Priority date: 2019-10-16
Filing date: 2019-10-16
Publication date: 2020-02-18

Abstract

The invention relates to a moisturizing, moisturizing and whitening emulsion and a preparation method thereof, wherein glabridin, L-ascorbic acid-glucoside and vitamin E are added, and the synergistic effect of various components is adopted to reduce the using amount of glabridin and improve the tyrosinase activity inhibition rate which reaches 97.27 percent, and the synergistic effect of SOD, L-ascorbic acid-glucoside and vitamin E is adopted to remove free radicals and reduce the formation of melanin; the addition of palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 stimulates the proliferation of collagen, elastic fiber and hyaluronic acid, improves the water content and water locking degree of the skin, increases the thickness of the skin and reduces fine wrinkles. Adding coconut oil, small molecular hyaluronic acid, ceramide, butanediol, and glycerol, keeping moisture, and replenishing water. The product does not contain essence and preservative, has few components, is safe and is not easy to be allergic.

Description

Moisturizing, moisturizing and whitening emulsion and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a moisturizing, hydrating and whitening emulsion and a preparation method thereof.

Background

Healthy and fair skin is a focus of attention of most Asian women, Chinese women advocate the whitening effect of 'skin like snow and skin like grease', and in recent years, the demand of whitening cosmetics is increased along with the improvement of the life quality of people. There are many methods for whitening, such as:

(1) preventing melanin synthesis

Tyrosinase, dopachrome tautomerase and 5, 6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid oxidase are the most important biological enzymes in the process of melanin formation, wherein the tyrosinase is the rate-limiting enzyme in the process, the tyrosinase mainly catalyzes the hydroxylation of monophenol to generate a dihydroxy compound and the oxidation of catechol to generate catechol, the two reactions have oxygen radicals to participate, and the activity of the tyrosinase can be damaged by removing the oxygen radicals;

(2) preventing melanin transfer

Azelaic acid, nicotinamide (VB)₃) The skin whitening agent can inhibit the transfer of melanin granules from melanocytes to keratinocytes, thereby having the skin whitening effect;

(3) accelerating melanin metabolism

The vitamin E, the vitamin C and the derivatives thereof can reduce the oxidized melanin particles into white reduced melanin particles, so that the whitening effect is achieved;

(4) oxidation resistant whitening

After being irradiated by ultraviolet rays, active oxygen is generated, so that a phospholipid membrane is damaged, skin tissues are damaged, problems of erythema, pigmentation and the like are caused, pressure is brought to the skin, and more melanin is generated. Anti-oxidation (Anti-Oxidant) is short for Anti-oxidation free radical, a complete set of Anti-oxidation system is arranged in a body, under normal physiological conditions, the body can continuously generate free radicals and continuously remove the free radicals while being subjected to oxidative metabolism, the free radicals and the free radicals are removed in a relatively dynamic balance state in the body, the generation of free radical scavengers of the body is reduced due to aging, unreasonable diet, pressure and the like, excessive free radicals can have harmful effects on the body, the excessive free radicals can attack unsaturated fatty acids in a biomembrane lipid bilayer to cause lipid peroxidation, the structure and function of a biomembrane are changed to cause cell necrosis, the functions of tissues and organs are influenced and aged, the free radicals attack protein to cause the protein to lose functions to cause pathological changes, and if the free radicals occur in collagen tissues, the skin can lose elasticity, free radicals attack DNA, which can cause cutting of DNA strands or base change, cause genetic errors to cause canceration, and reasonable dietary nutrition supplement and exogenous antioxidant nutrient intake can prevent damage of free radicals to cells, delay aging and prevent related diseases.

Superoxide dismutase (SOD) is an important component of an antioxidant enzyme system in a biological system, is widely distributed in microorganisms, plants and animals, can efficiently eliminate free radicals in the body, can cause cell damage and pigmentation due to redundant free radicals in the body, has the effects of accumulating free radicals and clearing obstacles on human body aging, and can whiten skin and delay aging by supplementing exogenous SOD.

Water is the basis of the human body, and the water content in the human body varies according to different development stages. The water content in the fetus is about 90%, the water content in the infant is 80%, the water content in young and old people is 70%, the water content in the middle-aged and old people is 60% or even 50%, and the aging process of people is also the water loss process. The water is a special-effect and cheap cosmetic agent for protecting the skin to be clean, moist and delicate, when the moisture on the surface layer of the skin of a human body is 12-15%, the skin is smooth and elastic, and once the skin lacks the moisture, the skin can be peeled, wrinkles are grown, and the pigmentation is accelerated.

The patents related to the research content of the present invention are as follows:

CN104586664B provides a whitening and freckle-removing emulsion, which comprises the following raw materials in parts by mass: 4-8 parts of platycodon grandiflorum extract, 5-10 parts of radix stemonae extract, 5-10 parts of sculellaria barbata extract, 2-6 parts of bletilla striata extract, 1-3 parts of rangooncreeper fruit extract, 5-10 parts of mulberry extract, 2-8 parts of radix paeoniae alba extract, 5-15 parts of vitamin E acetate, 2-10 parts of vitamin C magnesium phosphate, 1-5 parts of tranexamic acid, 10-20 parts of sodium hyaluronate, 5-15 parts of glycerol, 5-10 parts of betaine, 5-15 parts of carbomer, 15-20 parts of EDTA disodium, 1-5 parts of triethanolamine and 200-400 parts of water.

CN105078868B discloses a spot-removing emulsion for whitening and moisturizing and a preparation method thereof, wherein the spot-removing emulsion contains the following substances: wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, olive oil, rose corn oil, horse oil, snow lotus flower and sunflower seed oil, synthetic silk oil, cucumber squeezing liquid, bletilla striata extracting solution, myosotis sylvatica extracting solution, white muscardine silkworm extracting solution, centella asiatica extracting solution, rosemary extracting solution, pearl powder, cell activation agent, rose essential oil, distilled water, sodium alginate, propylene glycol, methylparaben and ethyl ester.

CN105560158B provides a whitening and moisturizing snow-melting essence emulsion, which takes xanthan gum, carbomer, gellan gum, shea butter, hydrogenated olive oil ethylhexyl oleate/hydrogenated olive oil unsaponifiable matter, polydimethylsiloxane, nicotinamide, synthetic wax, sodium acyl prolinate/water lily (NYMHAEA ALBA) flower extract and the like as raw materials; the essence has snowflake-shaped suspended essence appearance, instantly changes the touch of water, does not contain an emulsifier, is safe to use, has high-efficiency whitening and moisturizing effects, reduces pigmentation caused by inflammation (ultraviolet rays, irritation and acne) and aging, helps the skin to resist external irritation, reduces the temperature of epidermis, relieves pain caused by heat sensitivity, can further recover and maintain the natural elasticity of the skin, is particularly suitable for oriental skin, helps to replace simple and beautiful healthy skin, and helps to clear, whiten, clear, tender, flat, bright, uniform and quiet the skin to remove toxin, reduce wrinkles and whiten the skin.

CN109771325A discloses a SOD whitening anti-wrinkle repair emulsion, which comprises 10 parts of SOD extract, 5 parts of Vc, Vb5 parts, 5 parts of Vp, 3 parts of pearl powder, 1.5 parts of white poria, 2 parts of wheat germ emulsifying wax, 1 part of ionized calcium, 1 part of glycerol, 1 part of tranexamic acid, 61 parts of water, 1 part of cyclohexasiloxane, 0.5 part of butanediol, 1 part of ethanol, 1 part of lecithin, 1 part of lysolecithin, 1 part of sodium ascorbyl phosphate and 1 part of kojic acid.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide an antibacterial moisturizing and whitening mask.

In order to solve the technical problems, the invention adopts the technical scheme that the antibacterial moisturizing and whitening mask comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.05-0.06% of glabridin, 1-1.5% of nicotinamide, 1-1.5% of L-ascorbic acid-glucoside, 1-5% of coconut oil, 33-5% of palmitoyl pentapeptide, 1-5% of ceramide, 0.01-0.03% of small molecular hyaluronic acid, 5-10% of glycerol, 2-4% of SOD, 2-3% of vitamin E, 0.05-0.1% of xanthan gum and the balance of deionized water.

The preparation method comprises the following steps:

the method comprises the following steps: adding micromolecule hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, glycerol, butanediol, coconut oil, vitamin E and deionized water with the formula amount into an emulsifying tank, uniformly emulsifying, adding glabridin, nicotinamide, L-ascorbic acid-glucoside, SOD, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 and ceramide with the formula amount, uniformly stirring, and homogenizing in a homogenizer for 30-40min to obtain a uniformly emulsified mixture;

step two: adjusting the pH value of the mixture obtained in the step one to 5.5-6.5;

step three: sterilizing and canning to obtain the product.

Part of the raw material purchase information of the invention is as follows:

SOD, L-ascorbic acid-glucoside was purchased from Wuhan remote science and technology development, Inc.;

coconut oil was purchased from Shanghai Union Biotech, Inc.;

palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 was purchased from hangzhou gutuo biotechnology limited;

ceramides were purchased from ritvo biopharmaceutical limited of north Hubei;

vitamin E is available from Shanghai, such as Gi Biotech development Inc.

Specifically, the SOD used in the invention can remove superoxide anion free radicals and hydroxyl free radicals generated by organism metabolism, and simultaneously can be used as a substrate of superoxide anions to induce enzyme so as to protect organism cells from being damaged by aerobic metabolites. The SOD as a good free radical scavenger has good effects of improving the immunity of the organism, delaying aging and the like. Supplementing exogenous SOD, increasing SOD content and activity, scavenging free radicals, and maintaining normal operation of organs and tissues.

Glabridin is a flavonoid substance, and is known as 'whitening gold' due to its strong whitening effect. The composition is gradually concerned in the beauty industry as the most expensive and safe freckle-removing whitening component in the world. The glabridin can remove a part of tyrosinase from a catalytic ring for melanin synthesis mainly by competitively inhibiting the activity of the tyrosinase, and prevent the combination of a substrate and the tyrosinase, thereby inhibiting the synthesis of the melanin.

Nicotinamide, also known as Nicotinamide (NAA), vitamin B₃Vitamin PP is widely applied to clinical treatment for preventing pellagra, glossitis, stomatitis and dermatitis. It can inhibit the formation of melanin granules, also can inhibit the melanin granules from ascending to cuticle to effectively inhibit the transfer of melanin to cuticle, and when some melanin inevitably reaches the surface skin, the nicotinamide can promote the melanocyte to drop by accelerating the renewal speed of skin cells.

The glucose in L-ascorbic acid-glucoside is linked to the C2 hydroxyl group of vitamin C, and the C2 hydroxyl group is the site of activity of natural vitamin C and the site of decay of vitamin C. Glucose protects vitamin C from high temperatures, acids and bases, metal ions and other mechanical cracking. Compared with common vitamin C, the L-ascorbic acid-glucoside has better solubility and is more stable. It has effects in improving skin color, inhibiting melanin formation, resisting ultraviolet injury, promoting collagen synthesis, and resisting aging.

More than 85% of coconut oil is saturated fatty acid ester, and can reduce water loss through epidermis, moisturize skin, increase skin surface lipid, and soften and moisten skin.

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 can penetrate the dermis to increase collagen, and reverse the process of skin aging through the reconstruction from inside to outside. Stimulating the proliferation of collagen, elastic fiber and hyaluronic acid, increasing the water content and water locking degree of skin, increasing the thickness of skin and reducing fine wrinkles.

Ceramide is a phospholipid with ceramide as a skeleton, mainly comprising ceramide phosphorylcholine and ceramide phosphorylethanolamine, is a main component of cell membranes, 40-50% of sebum in the horny layer is composed of ceramide, and the ceramide is a main part of intercellular matrix and plays an important role in keeping the moisture balance of the horny layer. Ceramides have a strong ability to associate with water molecules, and maintain skin moisture by forming a network structure in the stratum corneum.

The small molecular hyaluronic acid has the characteristics of rapid penetration and absorption, can rapidly synthesize the hyaluronic acid of the skin through the action of skin fiber cells, increases the content of endogenous hyaluronic acid, and makes the skin moist and smooth.

Vitamin E is a fat-soluble vitamin, the hydrolysate is tocopherol which is the most main antioxidant, and the vitamin E can effectively resist free radicals, inhibit the generation of lipid peroxide, remove chloasma, inhibit the activity of tyrosinase and reduce the generation of melanin.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:

according to the moisturizing, moisturizing and whitening emulsion, the glabridin, the L-ascorbic acid-glucoside and the vitamin E are added, and the synergistic effect of various components is achieved, so that the using amount of the glabridin is reduced, the tyrosinase activity inhibition rate is improved to 97.27%, the SOD, the L-ascorbic acid-glucoside and the vitamin E are used in a synergistic effect to remove free radicals and reduce melanin formation, and the nicotinamide is added to inhibit melanin particles from being transferred to keratinocytes and accelerate the skin renewal speed, so that the skin is whitened in various ways, and the effect is remarkable; the addition of palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 stimulates the proliferation of collagen, elastic fiber and hyaluronic acid, improves the water content and water locking degree of the skin, increases the thickness of the skin and reduces fine wrinkles. Adding coconut oil, small molecular hyaluronic acid, ceramide, butanediol, and glycerol, keeping moisture, and replenishing water. The product does not contain essence and preservative, has few components, is safe and is not easy to be allergic.

Drawings

FIG. 1 shows superoxide anion clearance by SOD, L-ascorbyl glucoside, vitamin E;

FIG. 2 shows the clearance of SOD, L-ascorbic acid-glucoside, vitamin E on p-hydroxy radical;

FIG. 3 example one through example four pairs of superoxide anion, hydroxyl radical scavenging;

FIG. 4 results of skin brightness experiments;

FIG. 5 results of the melanin reduction ratio;

fig. 6 stratum corneum moisture change.

Detailed Description

The present invention is further described below by way of specific examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

Example one

The formula is as follows: 0.03% of glabridin, 1% of nicotinamide, 1% of L-ascorbic acid-glucoside, 1% of coconut oil, 33% of palmitoyl pentapeptide, 1% of ceramide, 0.01% of small-molecule hyaluronic acid, 5% of glycerol, 1% of butanediol, 2% of SOD, 2% of vitamin E, 1% of xanthan gum and the balance of deionized water;

the preparation process comprises the following steps:

step three: sterilizing and canning to obtain the product.

Example two

The formula is as follows: glabridin 0.04%, niacinamide 1.5%, L-ascorbic acid-glucoside 2%, coconut oil 2%, palmitoyl pentapeptide-34%, ceramide 2%, small molecular hyaluronic acid 0.02%, glycerol 6%, SOD 3%, vitamin E3%, xanthan gum 0.06%, and the balance of deionized water;

the preparation process is the same as that of the first embodiment.

EXAMPLE III

The formula is as follows: glabridin 0.05%, niacinamide 1.5%, L-ascorbic acid-glucoside 3%, coconut oil 3%, palmitoyl pentapeptide-34%, ceramide 3%, small molecular hyaluronic acid 0.02%, glycerin 7%, SOD 3%, vitamin E4%, xanthan gum 0.07%, and the balance of deionized water;

the preparation process is the same as that of the first embodiment.

Example four

The formula is as follows: glabridin 0.06%, niacinamide 1.5%, L-ascorbic acid-glucoside 4%, coconut oil 5%, palmitoyl pentapeptide-35%, ceramide 5%, small molecular hyaluronic acid 0.03%, glycerol 10%, SOD 4%, vitamin E5%, xanthan gum 0.08%, and the balance of deionized water;

the preparation process is the same as that of the first embodiment.

Experiment one: tyrosine activity inhibition assay

Experimental reagents and instruments: tyrosine, L-ascorbic acid-glucoside, glabridin, vitamin E, BSA223S-G analytical balance (Shanghai Jingtian electronic instruments Co.), intelligent digital display constant temperature water bath (Jiangsu Jinyi instruments science and technology Co., Ltd.), DR6000 ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometer (American Hash Co., Ltd.)

The experimental method comprises the following steps: using 0.01mol/l phosphate buffer pH6.8 and 1.5g/l levodopa as a substrate, 40. mu.l of the substrate was applied to a 96-well plate, and 80. mu.l of the phosphate buffer and 40. mu.l of the sample were added thereto. Then adding 40 mul of tyrosinase with the concentration of 100U/ml, mixing uniformly, reacting in a water bath at the temperature of 30 ℃ for 30min, and measuring the absorbance at 490 nm. The blank used 40. mu.l of the above phosphate buffer. The tyrosinase activity inhibition rate was calculated as follows.

Inhibition rate = [1- (T)₁-T₂)/(C₁-C₂)]×100%

In the formula C₁Absorbance when no enzyme was added to the sample, C₂Absorbance without enzyme and without sample, T₁Is the absorbance, T, at the time of addition of enzyme to the sample₂Absorbance without enzyme plus sample.

The results are shown in Table 1.

Experiment two: in vitro antioxidant Activity test

The experiments were divided into 7 groups: SOD, L-ascorbic acid-glucoside, vitamin E, examples one to four.

Experimental apparatus and reagents: BSA223S-G analytical balance (Shanghai Jingtian electronic instruments Co.), DR6000 ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometer (American Hash Co.), SIGMA3-18K refrigerated centrifuge (Beijing Boxixing instruments), intelligent digital display thermostat water bath (Jiangsu Jinyi instruments science and technology Co., Ltd.), superoxide anion kit and hydroxyl radical kit were all purchased from Nanjing to build the bioengineering institute.

The experimental method comprises the following steps: the assay was performed with reference to kit instructions.

The experimental results are shown in fig. 1, 2 and 3.

According to the experimental results, the SOD shows high superoxide anion free radical clearance and hydroxyl free radical clearance at lower concentration. The antioxidant capacity of SOD is more than L-ascorbic acid-glucoside is more than vitamin E, and the antioxidant capacity is improved through the synergistic effect of the three. The effect of the fourth embodiment is the best.

Experiment three: whitening and freckle removing experiment

An experimental instrument: minolta Chromameter CM-700d (Meinenda, Japan), Mexameter MX18 skin melanin and heme tester (Courage + Khazak, Germany).

The experimental method comprises the following steps:

1. 100 volunteer subjects were recruited.

2. The four-formula mask of the example is applied 1 time every night for 20 days for 1 treatment course.

3. The skin condition of the subject was measured with the instrument before, on day 20, day 40, day 60, and day 80, respectively. Skin lightness L values were measured using a Minolta Chromameter (CM-700d), 3 times per replicate, averaged, and the L values of all volunteers were re-averaged. The skin melanin values were measured using a Mexameter MX18, 3 replicates each time, averaged, the melanin reduction ratios calculated, and the melanin reduction ratios of all volunteers were then averaged.

4. The results of the experiment are shown in FIGS. 4 and 5.

The experimental results show that the product can brighten the skin color and reduce the whitening effect of melanin.

Experiment four: skin moisturizing test

The experimental population is as follows: 100 healthy female volunteers aged 20-60 years.

Sample preparation: example one to implementation four

An experimental instrument: skin cuticle moisture tester (Courage & Kazaka, germany),

the test method comprises the following steps:

the test part does not use any cosmetics 2-3 days before the test base value, and does not contact water for 1-3 hours. Before the test, the testee cleans the front wall of the front wall by using soap, and after the front wall is cleaned, five marks are made on the testee, namely a blank control area, an area from the first embodiment to the fourth embodiment and an area of the experimental area of 3 multiplied by 3cm²Each region being spaced 2cm apart. Sit still in a room with constant temperature and humidity (temperature 21 +/-0.5 ℃ and humidity 50 +/-2%) for 30min before formal test. Five areas of stratum corneum moisture content were tested 20, 40, 60, 80 days before using the samples. The average value of each measured data was calculated.

The results of the experiment are shown in FIG. 6.

Claims

1. The moisturizing, hydrating and whitening emulsion is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight: 0.03-0.06% of glabridin, 1-1.5% of nicotinamide, 1-4% of L-ascorbic acid-glucoside, 1-5% of coconut oil, 33-5% of palmitoyl pentapeptide, 1-5% of ceramide, 0.01-0.03% of small molecular hyaluronic acid, 5-10% of glycerol, 1-5% of butanediol, 2-4% of SOD, 2-5% of vitamin E, 0.05-0.1% of xanthan gum and the balance of deionized water.

2. The antibacterial moisture-retaining whitening mask as claimed in claim 1, wherein SOD is extracted from plants and has an enzymatic activity of 100000U/g.

3. The antibacterial moisture-preserving whitening mask as claimed in claim 1, wherein the molecular weight of the small molecular hyaluronic acid is 6000-9000 daltons.

4. The antibacterial moisturizing whitening mask as claimed in claim 1, wherein the purity of glabridin is greater than or equal to 98%.

5. The antibacterial moisturizing and whitening mask as claimed in claim 1, wherein the purity of palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 is greater than or equal to 97%.

6. The antibacterial moisturizing whitening mask as claimed in claim 1, wherein the purity of ceramide is greater than or equal to 98%.

7. The antibacterial moisture-preserving whitening mask as claimed in claim 1, wherein the purity of L-ascorbic acid-glucoside is not less than 98%.

8. The antibacterial moisturizing whitening mask as claimed in claim 1, wherein the purity of nicotinamide is greater than or equal to 98%.

9. The preparation method of the antibacterial moisturizing and whitening mask as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the preparation process comprises the following steps:

step three: sterilizing and canning to obtain the product.