CA2561501C - Liquid cleansing composition with particulate optical modifiers - Google Patents

Abstract

A liquid cleansing composition is disclosed that contains a solid particulate optical modifier that modifies the appearance of the skin after rinsing the skin. A method of depositing the solid particulate optical modifier to the skin or hair with the cleansing composition is also disclosed.

Description

LIQUID CLEANSING COMPOSITION WITH PARTICULATE OPTICAL
MODIFIERS

The present invention relates to detergent compositions suitable for topical application for cleansing the human body, such as the skin and hair. In particular, it relates to compositions containing particulate optical modifier(s) that change the appearance of the skin after wash off.

The visual appearance of skin is normally changed by using personal care compositions that are left on the skin.
However, it would be useful if the visual appearance of skin could also be changed by using cleansing compositions that are washed off the skin. Such products would be beneficial to consumers who are looking for multiple functionalities in their cleansing products, such as cleansers that simultaneously cleanse and moisturize.

In this case, products that cleanse the skin will also make it shine, sparkle, or glow by leaving behind solid particles that affect the interaction of light with the skin. These cleansers would save consumers the time required to apply a leave-on product that will change the visual appearance of the skin, and will also give them the benefit of appearing more attractive. Optionally, these cleansers could also contain moisturizers and emollients to condition the skin, and one or more active agents which can be used to deliver a benefit to the skin and which generally are not used to confer a conditioning benefit.

Prior art skin cleansers modify the way the skin feels after the shower by depositing materials such as oils or polymers.
Such materials deposit on the skin by various mechanisms, including attraction of cationic materials to the anionic surface of the skin. However, materials that change the feel of the skin do not generally change the look of the skin.

Surprisingly it has been discovered that by incorporating certain solid particles and a specific cationic polymer in a cleanser formulation, the visual appearance of the skin can be modified after wash off without the need for a complex delivery system employing specific oil droplets.

U.S. Patent no. 6395691 issued to Tsaur on May 28, 2002 directed to a personal wash liquid formulation discloses the use of a particle-in-oil dispersion to deliver solid particles to the skin that are effected by adjusting the size of the oil droplet and the size ratio between the oil droplet and the particles, and employs large droplets of petrolatum or thickened oil to deposit particles. The composition of Tsaur contains 2 % to 20 % by wt. of such a particle-in-oil dispersion.

In a co-pending U.S. patent application S/N 10/443396 filed on May 22, 2003 by Zhang et al. relating to the deposition of particles from a cleanser, the particles being deposited are small (under 20 microns), and the formulations disclosed rely on structured oil to deposit the particles. In another co-pending U.S. patent application S/N 10/241401 filed on Sept.
11, 2002 by Zhang et al. relating to the deposition of particles from a cleanser, the particles being deposited have a specified geometry and refractive index, and the formulations disclosed rely on a particle-in-oil dispersion to deposit the particles.

Cosmetic formulations that are left on the skin and contain solid particles to modify the skin appearance are well known.
For example, many currently available lotions contain mica coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide that make the skin sparkle. Wash-off cleanser formulations that contain solid particles to modify the appearance of the cleanser itself are =
also well known. For example, many currently available body wash products contain mica coated with titanium dioxide to give the product a shimmering appearance. In addition, cleanser formulations may contain solid particles to give the formulation abrasive characteristics and to exfoliate the skin. Many products that are marketed as exfoliating cleansers contain particles such as polyethylene or various fruit seeds to scrub the skin.

US Publication no. 2003/0234759 Al published on July 17, 2003 to Geary et al. describes a formulation that contains surfactant, water-insoluble solid particles, a synthetic cationic polymer, and a phase separation initiator and which contains from 0.025 % to 5% by weight of an organic, non-crosslinked, cationic homopolymer or copolymer having a cationic charge density o from 2 meg/gm to 10 meq/gm and an average molecular weight of from 1,000 to 5,000,000. The solid particles are deposi_ted when the phase separation initiator causes the polymer to form a liquid crystal phase.

ak 02561501 2011-11-21 In a first aspect of the invention there is provided a liquid cleansing composition comprising:
(a) about 1 to 35 wt. % of surfactant(s) selected from an anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic surfactant or mixtures thereof;
(b) a thickening agent;
(c) about 0.1% to 10% of a cationic polymer;
(d) a solid particulate optical modifier in a concentration of at least about 0.2% by wt. for exhibiting a specific set of optical properties on skin characterized by one or more skin evaluation methods selected from Tile evaluation method, Hand wash (consumer evaluation) method, Hand wash (lab evaluation) method, or a set of Tristimulus Color Values L, a*, and b*; a reflectivity change, and an opacity change, that provides at least a 5% change in at least one of the specific optical properties when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol;
(e) wherein the viscosity of the isotropic cleansing composition is in the range of about 1,000 to 300,000 cps @
1/sec shear rate at 25 C via the cone and plate method;
(f) less than 0.01% of a hydrophobic emollient; and (g) wherein the solid particulate optical modifier is selected from organic pigments, inorganic pigments, platy substrate coated with organic and inorganic materials, or blends and physical aggregates thereof.

In a further aspect of the invention there is provided a method of depositing a solid particulate optical modifier onto the skin from an isotropic liquid cleansing composition comprising the steps of:
(a) providing said solid particulate optical modifier in said cleansing composition including:

= CA 02561501 2011-11-21 (1) a surfactant selected from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof;
(2) a thickening agent, (3) about 0.2% to about 1% by weight of said solid particulate optical modifier of from about 50 to about 150 microns in average diameter, wherein the solid particulate optical modifier is selected from organic pigments, inorganic pigments, platy substrate coated with organic and inorganic materials, or blends and physical aggregates thereof;
(4) about 0.1% to 10% of a cationic polymer; and (5) less than 0.01% of a hydrophobic emollient;
(b) applying said cleansing composition to the skin or hair; and (c) rinsing off said cleansing composition.

Further disclosed is a liquid cleansing composition comprising:
(a) 1 % to 35 wt. % of surfactant(s) selected from an anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic surfactant or mixtures thereof;
(b) 0.1 % to 10 % of a cationic polymer; and, (c) an effective concentration of a solid particulate optical modifier for exhibiting a specific set of optical properties on skin characterized by a set of Tristimulus Color Values L, a*, and b*; a reflectivity change, and an opacity change, that provides at least a 5 % change in at least one of the specific optical properties when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol.

In a preferred embodiment of this aspect, the inventive' composition further comprises:
(a) a thickening agent;
(b) wherein the viscosity of the cleansing composition is in the range of 1,000 to 300,000 cps, preferably 5,000 to 50,000 cps @ 1/sec shear rate at 25 C using the cone and plate method described below; and, (c) wherein the cleansing composition is isotropic.

In a second preferred embodiment of this aspect, the cleansing composition further comprises:

(a) 3 % to 30 % by weight of a surfactant system including at least one surfactant selected from an anionic, amphoteric, cationic and nonion_ic surfactant and mixtures thereof, wherein at least one anionic surfactant must be present;
(b) 0.1 % to 15 % by wt. of an ordered liquid crystalline phase inducing structurant for inducing an ordered liquid crystalline phase in said cleansing composition; preferably wherein the ordered liquid crystalline phase inducing structurant is selected from a 08 to 024 alkenyl or branched alkyl fatty acid or ester thereof, a C8 to C24 alkenyl or branched alkyl alcohol or ether thereof, a C5 to 014 linear alkyl fatty acid, trihydroxystearin, or derivatives or mixtures thereof; more preferably wherein the ordered liquid crystalline phase inducing structurant is selected from lauric acid, oleic acid, palm kernel acid, palm fatty acid, coconut acid, isostearic acid, or derivatives or mixtures thereof; and still more preferably wherein the ordered liquid crystalline phase has lamellar structure;
(c) wherein said ordered liquid crystall_ine phase composition has a viscosity of 40,000 to 300,000 cps at 25 C as measured via the T-bai: method; and (d) wherein said ordered liquid crystalline phase composition contains less than 0.025 % by weight of an organic, non-crosslinked, cationic homopolymer or copolymer having a cationic charge density of from 2 meq/gm to 10 meg/gm and an average molecular weight of from 1,000 to 5,000,000. Preferably the inventive ordered liquid crystalline phase composition contains 0 % of this polymer.

Preferably the visual attribute targeted by the optical modifier is selected from skin shine, skin color or skin optical uniformity, and combinations thereof. These attributes can be further estimated by way of L value, reflectance change and opacity change using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol described below.

Advantageously the change in L value is in the range from 0 to +10, the reflectance change is in the range from 0 to +300 %, and the change in opacity is in the range from 0 to +20 % with the proviso that the change in L value, reflectance change and opacity change are not all zero so as = to provide noticeable skin shine when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol; preferably wherein greater than 10 % by wt. (preferably greater than about 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90 or 95 %) of the particulate optical modifier is further defined by an exterior surface refractive index, geometry, and specific dimensions wherein:

i) the exterior surface has a refractive index of 1.8 to 4.0;
ii) the geometry is platy, cylindrical or a blend thereof; and iii) the specific dimensions are 10 to 200 pm average diameter in the case of a platy particle, or 10 to 200 pm in average length and 0.5 to 5.0 pm in average diameter in the case of a cylindrical particle.

Advantageously the change in L value is in the range from 0 to +10, the change in the a* value is in the range from 0 to +10, the change in the b* value is in the range from 0 to +10, the change in opacity is in the range from 0 to +50 %, and the reflectance change is within the normal skin reflectivity range of +10 %, with the proviso that the change in L value, b* and opacity change are not all zero so as to provide noticeable skin lightening or color changa when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol;
preferably wherein greater than 10 % by wt. (preferably greater than about 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90 or 95 %) of the particulate optical modifier is further defined by an exterior surface refractive index, geometry, and specific dimensions wherein:

i) the exterior surface has a refractive index of 1.3 to 4.0;

ii) the geometry is spheroidal, platy or a blend thereof;
iii) the specific dimensions are 1 to 30pm average diameter in the case of a platy particle, or 0.1 to 1 pm in average diameter in the case of a spheroidal particle; and iv) optionally having fluorescence color, absorption color, interference color or a combination thereof.
Advantageously the change in L value is in the range from 0 to +5, the reflectance change is in the range from 0 to +100 %, the change in opacity is in the range from 0 to +50 %, and the change in a* and b* are within normal skin color range of +10 % for each of a* or b*, with the proviso that the change in L value, reflectance change and opacity change are not all zero so as to provide noticeable skin optical uniformity change when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol; preferably wherein greater than 10 % by wt. (preferably greater than about 20, 30, 40, SO, 60, 70, 80, 90 or 95 %) of the particulate optical modifier is further defined by an exterior surface refractive index, geometry, and specific dimensions wherein:
i) the exterior surface has a refractive index of 1.3 to 2.0 ii) the geometry is spheroidal, platy, cylindrical or a blend thereof iii) the specific dimensions are 0.1 to 200 pm in average diameter in the case of a spheroidal particle, 1 to 10 pm average diameter in the case of a platy particle, or 1 to 10 pm in average length and 0.5 to 5.0 pm in average diameter in the case of a cylindrical particle, and iv) optionally having fluorescence color, absorption color, interference color or a combination thereof.

In a further preferred embodiment of the inventive cleansing composition, the particulate optical modifier is composed predominately of platy particles further defined by having an average plate diameter of 10 pm to 200 pm and a refractive index of at least 1.8 (preferably having an average plate diameter of about 10 pm to 100 pm and a refractive index of at least about 2); and more preferably wherein the particulate optical modifier contains a surface modification selected from amino acids, proteins, fatty acids, lipids, phospholipids (lecithin), anionic and/or cationic oligomers/polymers or blends or derivatives thereof to enhance the deposition of the optical modifier on to the skin.

Preferably the inventive composition contains a cationic polymer having a charge density of at least 0.7 Meq/g (more preferably at least about 0.8, 0.9 or 1.0 Meq/g); still more preferably wherein the cationic polymer is selected from MerquatqD 100 or 2200, Jaguar 017 or C13S, SalcareC) Supre 7, SC10, or S030; Gafquat 0 HS100 or 755, and Luviquatg, F0370, F0550, HM552 or FC905; or blends thereof.

Advantageously the inventive composition contains an anionic surfactant and optionally an amphoteric surfactant, preferably wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from a C8-C16 alkyl sulfate and/or alkyl ether sulfates, fatty acid soaps, taurates, sulfosuccinates, glycinates, sarcosinates or blends thereof and the amphoteric surfactant is selected from amphoacetates, betaines and amidoalkyl betaines or derivatives or blends thereof.

Advantageously the ratio of anionic surfactant to a surfactant that has a positive charge at a pH of 6.5 or below (preferably where the surfactant has a positive charge at a pH of about 5.5 or below) is in the range of 15:1 to 1:2; in the case of the isotropic composition and is in the range of about 6:1 to about 1:2 in the case of the liquid crystalline structured composition. Preferably wherein the surfactant with the positive charge is an amphoteric surfactant; and more preferably wherein the amphoteric surfactant is selected from betaine, alkylamidopropyl betaine, sulphobetaine, amphoacetate or blends thereof.

In a further preferred embodiment, the solid particulate optical modifier has an average diameter of at least 30 microns (preferably at least about 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 120, 140, or 150 microns). Preferably the solid particulate optical modifier is present in a minimum concentration of at least 0.2 % by wt. (preferably at least about 0.25, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.7, 0.9, or 1 % by wt.).

Advantageously the thickening agent for the isotropic composition is selected from polyacrylates; silica; natural and synthetic waxes; aluminum silicate; lanolin derivatives;
08 to C20 fatty alcohols polyethylene copolymers;
polyammonium carboxylates; sucrose esters; hydrophobic clays; petrolatum; hydrotalcites; cellulose derivatives, polysaccharide derivatives, or derivatives and mixtures thereof. Preferably the isotropic composition is structured with a structurant selected from swelling clays; cross-linked polyacrylates; acrylate homopolymers and copolymers;
polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymers and copolymers;
polyethylene imines; inorganic salts; sucrose esters, gellants or blends and derivatives thereof.

Advantageously the inventive isotropic structured composition further comprises an emollient having a weight average emollient particle size in the range of 1 to 500 microns; preferably wherein the composition contains less than 10 % by wt. of hydrophobic emollient(s).

More preferably, the isotropic composition has less than 50 % by wt. (preferably less than about 40, 30, 20, 10, or 5 %
by wt.) of the solid particulate optical modifier suspended in an oil. Preferably the isotropic composition contains less than about 10 % by wt. (preferably less than 5, 2, 1, 0.5, 0.1 or 0.05 % by wt.) of hydrophobic emollient(s) (as defined below).

In a further preferred embodiment the composition contains at least 7 wt %; preferably 10 to 25 wt % of the surfactant, and preferably the particulate optical modifier is selected from organic pigments, inorganic pigments, polymers, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, colored iron oxide, chromium oxide/hydroxide/hydrate, alumina, silica, zirconia, barium sulfate, silicates, polyethylene, polypropylene, nylon, ultramarine, alkaline earth carbonates, talc, sericite, mica, synthetic mica, polymers, platy substrate coated with organic and inorganic materials, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, or blends and physical aggregates thereof; more preferably wherein the particulate optical modifier possesses color generated through fluorescence, adsorption, iridescence or a combination thereof. Preferably the inventive composition comprises greater than 30 % by weight water.

In a further aspect of the invention is provided a method of depositing a solid particulate optical modifier onto the skin from a liquid cleansing composition according to any of the preceeding claims, or a blend thereof, comprising the steps of:
(a) 1 % to 35 wt. % of surfactant(s) selected from an anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic surfactant or mixtures thereof;
(b) 0.1 % to 10 % of a cationic polymer;
(c) an effective concentration of a solid particulate optical modifier for exhibiting a specific set of optical properties on skin characterized by a set of Tristimulus Color Values L, a*, and b*; a reflectivity change, and an opacity change, that provides at least a 5 % change in at least one of the specific optical properties when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol described below;

(d) applying said cleansing composition to the skin or hair; and (e) rinsing off said cleansing composition.

Surfactants are an essential component of the inventive cleansing composition. They are compounds that have hydrophobic and hydrophilic portions that act to reduce the surface tension of the aqueous solutions they are dissolved in. Useful surfactants can include anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, and cationic surfactants and blends thereof.

The cleansing composition of the present invention may contain one or more anionic detergents. Anionic surfactants are preferably used at levels as low as 3 or 5 or 7 % by wt., and at levels as high as 12 or 15 % by wt.

The anionic detergent active which may be used may be aliphatic sulfonates, such as a primary alkane (e.g., 08- 022 ) sulfonate, primary alkane (e.g., 08-022) disulfonate, 08-022 alkene sulfonate, 08-022 hydroxyalkane sulfonate or alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonate (AGS); or aromatic sulfonates such as alkyl benzene sulfonate.
The anionic may also be an alkyl sulfate (e.g., 012-018 alkyl sulfate) or an alkyl ether sulfate (including alkyl glyceryl ether sulfates). Among the alkyl ether sulfates are those having the formula:

R0 (CH2CH20) S03M

wherein R is an alkyl or alkenyl having 8 to 18 carbons, preferably 12 to 18 carbons, n has an average value of greater than 1.0, preferably greater than 3; and M is a solubilizing cat on such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium. Ammonium and sodium lauryl ether sulfates are preferred.

The anionic may also be alkyl sulfosuccinates (including mono- and dialkyl, e.g., C6-C22 sulfosuccinates); alkyl and acyl taurates, alkyl and acyl sarcosinates, sulfoacetates, C3-C22 alkyl phosphates and phosphates, alkyl phosphate esters and alkoxyl alkyl phosphate esters, acyl lactates, 08-022 monoalkyl succinates and maleates, sulphoacetates, alkyl glucosides and acyl isethionates, and the like.

Sulfosuccinates may be monoalkyl sulfosuccinates having the formula:

¨
v2(...L.n2t.n(u3m) k-u2m; and amide-MEA sulfosuccinates of the formula;

R4CONHCR2CH2O200H2OHkau3L-10_,u2m wherein R4 ranges from 08-022 alkyl and M is a solubilizing cation.

Sarcosinates are generally indicated by the formula:

R1CON (CH3) CH2002M, wherein R1 ranges from C8-C20 alkyl and M is a solubilizing cation.

Taurates are generally identified by formula:

wherein R2 ranges from C8 -C20 alkyl, R3 ranges from 01-04 alkyl and M is a solubilizing cation.

The inventive cleansing composition may contain C8-C18 acyl isethionates. These esters are prepared by reaction between alkali metal isethionate with mixed aliphatic fatty acids having from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and an iodine value of less than 20. At least 75 % of the mixed fatty acids have from 12 to 18 carbon atoms and up to 25 % have from 6 to 10 carbon atoms.

The acyl isethionate may be an alkoxylated isethionate such as is described in Ilardi et al., U.S. Patent No. 5,393,466, titled "Fatty Acid Esters of Polyalkoxylated isethonic acid", issued February 28, 1995. This compound has the general formula:

=11 0 XI
R C-0-CH-0H2-(OCH-CH2)m-S03M+

wherein R is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbons, m is an integer from 1 to 4, X and Y are hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbons and M+ is a monovalent cation such as, for example, sodium, potassium or ammonium.

One or more amphoteric surfactants may be used in this invention. Amphoteric surfactants are preferably used at levels as low as 0.5 or 0.8 %, and at levels as high as 4 or 5 % by wt. for isotropic campostions or levels as low as 1 or 2 % by wt. and at levels as high as 6 or 8 % by wt. for ordered liquid crystalline compositions. Such surfactants include at least one acid group. This may be a carboxylic or a sulphonic acid group. They include quaternary nitrogen and therefore are quaternary amido acids. They should generally include an alkyl or alkenyl group of 7 to 18 carbon atoms.
They will usually comply with an overall structural formula:

R1-[-C-NH(CH2)n-]m-N+-X-Y

where R1 is alkyl or alkenyl of 7 to 18 carbon atoms; R2 and R3 are each independently alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or carboxyalkyl of 1 to 3 carbon atoms; n is 2 to 4; m is 0 to 1; X is alkylene of 1 to 3 carbon atoms optionally substituted with hydroxyl, and Y is -002- or -S03-Suitable amphoteric surfactants within the above general formula include simple betaines of formula:

R1-N+-CH2CO2 and amido betaines of formula:

- CONH (CH2 ) n-N+-0H2002 where n is 2 or 3.

In both formulae R1, R2 and R3 are as defined previously. R1 may in particular be a mixture of 012 and 014 alkyl groups derived from coconut oil so that at least half, preferably at least three quarters of the groups R have 10 to 14 carbon 1 atoms. R2 and R3 are preferably methyl.

A further possibility is that the amphoteric detergent is a sulphobetaine of formula:

(CH2)3S03 or Ri - CONH(CH2)m-N+-(CH2)3S03 where m is 2 or 3, or variants of these in which -(CH9)3 SO3 is replaced by OH

In these formulae R1, R2 and R3 are as discussed previously.

Amphoacetates and diamphoacetates are also intended to be covered in possible zwitterionic and/or amphoteric compounds which may be used such as e.g., sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, and blends thereof, and the like.

One or more nonionic surfactants may also be used in the cleansing composition of the present invention. Nonionic surfactants are preferably used at levels as low as 0.5 or 0.8 and at levels as high as 1.5 or 2 % by wt. for isotropic compositions or at levels as low as 1 or 2 % by wt. and at levels as high as 5 or 6 % by wt. for ordered liquid crystalline compositions.

The nonionics which may be used include in particular the reaction products of compounds having a hydrophobic group and a reactive hydrogen atom, for example aliphatic alcohols, acids, amides or alkylphenols with alkylene oxides, especially ethylene oxide either alone or with propylene oxide. Specific nonionic detergent compounds are alkyl (C8-C22) phenols ethylene oxide condensates, the condensation products cpf aliphatic (C8-C18) primary or secondary linear or branched alcohols with ethylene oxide, and products made by condensation of ethylene oxide with the reaction products of propylene oxide and ethylenediamine. Other so-called nonionic detergent compounds include long chain tertiary amine oxides, long chain tertiary phosphine oxides and dialkyl sialphoxide, and the like.

The nonionic may also be a sugar amide, such as a polysaccharide amide. Specifically, the surfactant may be one of the lactobionamides described in U.S. Patent No.
5,389,279 to Au et al. titled "Compositions Comprising Nonionic Glycolipid Surfactants" issued February 14, 1995;
or it may be one of the sugar amides described in Patent No.
5,009,814 to Kelkenberg, titled "Use of N-Poly Hydroxyalkyl Fatty Acid Amides as Thickening Agents for Liquid Aqueous Surfactant Systems" issued April 23, 1991.

Suitable thickening agents can be added as a structurant when the composition is isotropic. Suitable thickening agents include polacrylates; fumed silica natural and synthetic waxes, alkyl silicone waxes such as behenyl silicone wax; aluminium silicate; lanolin derivatives such as lanesterol; 08 to 020 fatty alcohols;

polyethylenecopolymers; polyammonium stearate; sucrose esters; hydrophobic clays; petrolatum; hydrotalcites; and mixtures thereof, and the like.

Hydrotalcites are materials of general formula:

[MmNn(OH)-2(m+n) ].n+ X.m-_n/m y H20 -where M is a divalent metal ion e.g. Mg.2+ ; N is a trivalent metal ion e.g. A1.3+; X is an exchangeable anion e.g. C0.3* , NO.3. , stearate, cinnimate; m is the number of divalent metal ions; and n is the number of trivalent metal ions.

Particularly preferred thickening agents include silica, alkyl silicone waxes, paraffin wax, 08 to 020 fatty alcohols, petroleum jelly and polyethylene copolymers, blends thereof and the like.

While some materials can function as both an emollient and a thickener, therefor it will be appreciated that the emollient and thickening function cannot be provided by the same component. However, it will be understood that where the composition comprises two or more emollients one of said emollients could also function as a thickening agent.

= CA 02561501 2011-11-21 Preferably the amount of thickening agent may be as low as 1 % by wt. and may be up to 5, 10, 15, 20 or 25 % by weight_ Although the isotropic compositions of the invention may be self-structuring, preferably they will also comprise a structurant, i.e. a material added to increase the viscosity at zero shear. Suitable materials include swelling clays, for example laponite; fatty acids and derivatives hereof and, in particular fatty acid monoglyceride polyglycol ethers; cross-linked polyacrylates such as CarbopolTM (TM) (polymers available from Goodrich); acrylates and copolymers thereof e.g. AquaTM SF-1 available from Noveon (Cleveland, Ohio), polyvinylpyrrolidone and copolymers thereof;
polyethylene imines; salts such as sodium chloride and ammonium sulphate; sucrose esters; gellants; natural gums including alginates, guar, xanthan and polysaccharide derivatives including carboxy methyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl guar; propylene glycols and propylene glycol_ oleates; glycerol tallowates; and mixtures thereof, mixtures thereof, and the like.

Of the clays, particularly preferred are synthetic hectorite (laponite) clay used in conjunction with an electrolyte salt capable of causing the clay to thicken. Suitable electrolytes include alkali and alkaline earth salts such as halides, ammonium salts and sulphates, blends thereof and the like.

Further examples of structurants and thickeners are given in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, published by CTFA (The Cosmetic, Toiletry &
Fragrance Association).

A necessary component in compositions according to the invention is a cationic skin feel conditioning agent or polymer, such as for example cationic celluloses. Cationic polymers are preferably used at levels as low as 0.2 or 0.3, and at levels as high as 1 or 1.5 % by wt. in the case of an isotropic composition, or at levels as low as 0.2 or 0.3 %
and at levels as high as 0.8 or 1 % by wt. in the case of an ordered liquid crystalline composition.

Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) in their Polymer JR (trade mark) and LR (trade mark) series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10.
Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are av-ailable from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200.

A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can. be used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hyclroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Commercially available from Rhone-Poulenc in their JAGUAR trademark series). Examptes are JAGUAR C13S, which has a low degree of substitution of the cationic groups and high viscosity, JAGUAR C15, having a moderate degree of substitution and a = CA 02561501 2011-11-21 low viscosity, JAGUAR 017 (high degree of substitution, high viscosity), JAGUAR 016, which is a hydroxypropylated cationic guar derivative containing a low level of substituent groups as well as cationic quaternary ammonium groups, and JAGUAR 162 which is a high transparency, medium viscosity guar having a low degree oE substitution.

Particularly preferred cationic polymers are JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR 015, JAGUAR 017 and JAGUAR 016 and JAGUAR 0162, especially Jaguar C13S. Other cationic skin feel agents known in the art may be used provided that they are compatible with the inventive formulation.

One or more cationic surfactants may also be used in the cleansing composition. Cationic surfactants may be used at levels as low as 0.1, 0.3, 0.5 or 1 and at levels as high as 2, 3, 4 or 5 % by wt.

Examples of cationic detergents are the quaternary ammonium compounds such as alkyldimethylammonium halogenides.

Other suitable surfactants which may be used are described .in U.S. Patent No. 3,723,325 to Parra_n Jr. titled "Detergent Compositions Containing Particle Deposition Enhancing Agents" issued March, 27, 1973; and "Surface Active Agents and Detergents" (Vol. I & II) by Schwartz, Perry & Berch.

In addition, the inventive cleansing composition of the invention may include 0 to 15 % by wt. optional ingredients = CA 02561501 2011-11-21 as follows: perfumes; sequestering agents, such as tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate (EDTA), EHDP or mixtures in an amount of 0.01 to 1 %, preferab1y 0.01 to 0.05 %; and coloring agents, opacifiers and pearlizers such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, Ti02, EGMS (ethylene glycol monostearate) or LytronTM 621 (Styrene/Acrylate copolymer) and the like; all of which are useful in enhancing the appearance or cosmetic properties of the product.

The compositions may further comprise antimicrc)bials such as 2-hydroxy-4,21, 4' trichlorodiphenylether (DP300);
preservatives such as dimethyloldimethylhydantcpin (Glydant XL1000), parabens, sorbic acid etc., and the The compositions may also comprise coconut acya mono- or diethanol amides as suds boosters, and strongly ionizing salts such as sodium chloride and sodium sulfate may also be used to advantage.

Antioxidants such as, for example, butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and the like may be used advantageously :in amounts of 0.01 % or higher if appropriate.

Moisturizers that also are humectants such as polyhydric alcohols, e.g. glycerine and propylene glycol, and the like;
and polyols such as the polyethylene glycols listed below and the like may be used.

PolyoxTm WSR-205 PEG 14M, PolyoxTm WSR-N-60K PEG 45M, or Polyox WSR-N-750 PEG 7M.

Hydrophobic and/or hydrophilic emollients (i.e. humectants) mentioned above may be used. Preferably, hydrcphilic emollients are used in excess of hydrophobic ermollients in the inventive cleansing composition. Most pre erably one or more hydrophilic emollients are used alone. Hydrophilic emollients are preferably present in a concentsation greater than 0.01 % by weight, more preferably greater than 0.5 % by weight. Preferably the inventive composition contains less than 10, 5, 3, 2, 1, 0.7, 0.5, 0.3, 0.2, 0.1, 0.05 or 0.01 %
by wt. of a hydrophobic emollient in the case <of an isotropic composition. Hydrophobic emollients are prefesably present in a concentration greater than 3, 5, 7, 9, 10, 15, 20, or 25 % by weight in the case of an ordered liquid crystalline composition.

The term "emollient" is defined as a substance which softens or improves the elasticity, appearance, and yo-uthfulness of the skin (stratum corneum) by either increasing its water content, adding, or replacing lipids and other skin nutrients, or both; and keeps it soft by retarding the decrease of its water content.

Useful emollients (also considered conditioning compounds according to the invention) include the following:
(a) silicone oils and modifications therecDf such as linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxans; amino, alkyl, alkylaryl, and aryl silicone oils;
(b) fats and oils including natural fats Eand oils such as jojoba, soybean, sunflower, rice bran, avocado, almond, olive, sesame, persic, castor, coconut, mink oils; cacao fat; beef tallow, lard; harden_ed oils obtained by hydrogenating the aforementioaed oils;
and synthetic mono-, di- and triglycerides such as myristic acid glyceride and 2-ethylhexanoic acid glyceride;
(c) waxes such as carnauba, spermaceti, beeswax, lanolin, and derivatives thereof;
(d) hydrophobic and hydrophillic plant extracts;
(e) hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffins, vaseline, microcrystalline wax, ceresin, squalene, pristan and mineral oil;
(f) higher fatty acids such as lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, behenic, oleic, linoleic.
linolenic, lanolic, isostearic, arachidonic and poly unsaturated fatty acids (PUFA);
(g) higher alcohols such as lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl, cholesterol and 2-hexydeca_nol alcohol;
(h) esters such as cetyl octanoate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl adipate, butyl stearate, decyl oleate, cholesterol isostearate, glycerol monostearate, glycerol distearate, glycerol tristearate, alkyl lactate, alkyl citrate and alkyl tartrate;
(i) essential oils and extracts thereof such as mentha, jasmine, camphor, white cedar, bitter orange peel, ryu, turpentine, cinnamon, bergamot, citrus unshiu, calamus, pine, lavender, bay, clove, hiba, eucalyptus, lemon, starflower, thyme, peppermint, rose, sage, sesame, ginger, basil, junipeDf, lemon grass, rosemary, rosewood, avocado, grape, grapeseed, myrrh, cucumber, watercress, calendula, eader flower, geranium, linden blossom, amaranth, seawed, ginko, ginseng, carrot, guarana, tea tree, jojoba., comfrey, oatmeal, cocoa, neroli, vanilla, green teEa, penny royal, aloe vera, menthol, cineole, eugenc)1, citral, citronelle, borneol, linalool, geraniol, EnTening primrose, camphor, thymol, spirantol, penne, limonene and terpenoid oils; and (j) mixtures of any of the foregoing components, and the like.

Preferred conditioning agents are selected from glycerin, triglyceride oils, mineral oils, petrolatum, and mixtures thereof. Further preferred emollients are glycerin, triglycerides such as shea butter and sunflower sed oil.

In preferred embodiment, the inventive cleansing ccxruposition possesses either isotropic micellar phase, ordered, liquid crystalline phase microstructure (preferably lamellar microstructure structure), or a combination thereoff. The rheological behavior of all surfactant solutions, including liquid cleansing solutions, is strongly dependent (Dr' the microstructure, i.e., the shape and concentration of micelles or other self-assembled structures in solution.

When there is sufficient surfactant to form micells (concentrations above the critical micelle concentration or CMC), for example, spherical, cylindrical (rod-lik or discoidal), spherocylindrical or ellipsoidal micelLes may form. As surfactant concentration increases, ordered liquid crystalline phases such as lamellar phase, hexagonal phase, cubic phase or L3 sponge phase may form. The lamellar phase, for example, consists of alternating surfactant bilayers and water layers. These layers are not generally flat, but fold to form submicron spherical onion like structures called vesicles or liposomes. The hexagonal phase, on the other hand, consists of long cylindrical . micelles arranged in a hexagonal lattice. In general, th microstructure of most personal care products consist of either spherical micelles, rod micelles, or a lamellar dispersion.

As noted above, micelles may be spherical or rod-like.
Formulations having spherical micelles tend to have a low viscosity and exhibit Newtonian shear behavior (i.e., the viscosity stays constant as a function of shear rate; thus, if easy pouring of product is desired, the solution is less viscous and, as a consequence, it doesn't suspend as well).
In these systems, the viscosity increases linearly with surfactant concentration.

Rod micellar solutions are more viscous because movement of the longer micelles is restricted. At a critical shear rate, the micelles align and the solution becomes shear thinning. Addition of salts increases the size of the rod micelles thereof increasing zero shear viscosity (i.e., viscosity when sitting in bottle) which helps suspend particles, but also increases critical shear rate (i.e. the point at which the product becomes shear thinning; higher critical shear rates means product is more difficult to pour).

Lamellar dispersions differ from both spherical and rod-like micelles because they can have high zero shear viscosity (because of the close packed arrangement of constituent lamellar droplets), yet these solutions are very shear thinning (e.g. readily dispense on pouring). That is, the solutions can become thinner than rod micellar solutions at moderate shear rates.

In formulating liquid cleansing compositions, therefore, there is the choice of using rod-micellar solutions (whose zero shear viscosity, e.g., suspending ability, is not very good and/or are not very shear thinning); or lamellar dispersions (with higher zero shear viscosity, e.g. better suspending, and yet are very shear thinning). Such lamellar compositions are characterized by high zero shear viscosity (good for suspending and/or structuring) while simultaneously being very shear thinning such that they readily dispense in pouring. Such compositions possess a "heaping", lotion-like appearance which convey signals of enhanced moisturization.

When rod-micellar solutions are used, they also often require the use of external structurants to enhance viscosity and to suspend particles (again, because they have lower zero shear viscosity than lamellar phase solutions).
For this, carbomers and clays are often used. At higher shear rates (as in product dispensing, application of product to body, or rubbing with hands), since the rod-micellar solutions are less shear thinning, the viscosity of the solution stays high and the product can be stringy and thick. Lamellar dispersion based products, having higher zero shear viscosity, can more readily suspend emollients and are typically more creamy. In general, lamellar phase compositions are easy to identify by their characteristic focal conic shape and oily streak texture while hexagonal phase exhibits angular fan-like texture. In contrast, micellar phases are optically isotropic.
It should be understood that lamellar phases may be formed in a wide variety of surfactant systems using a wide variety of lamellar phase "inducers" as described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 5,952,286 issued to Puvvada, et al., on September, 14, 1999. Generally, the transition from micelle to lamellar phase are functions of effective average area of headgroup of the surfactant, the length of the extended tail, and the volume of tail. Using branched surfactants or surfactants with smaller headgroups or bulky tails are also effective ways of inducing transitions from rod micellar to lamellar.

One way of characterizing isotropic micellar dispersions (hereinafter "isotropic compositions") include cone and plate .25 viscosity measurement as described below. The inventive isotropic composition has a viscosity in the range of 1,000 to 300,000 cps @ 1/sec shear rate at 25 C as measured by a cone and plate technique described below. Preferably the viscosity is in the range of 5,000 to 50,000 cps.

One way of characterizing ordered liquid crystalline dispersions include measuring viscosity at low shear rate (using for example a Stress Rheometer) when additional inducer (e.g., oleic acid or isostearic acid) is used. At higher amounts of inducer, the low shear viscosity will significantly increase.

Another way of measuring ordered liquid crystalline dispersions is using freeze fracture electron microscopy.
Micrographs generally will show ordered liquid crystalline microstructure and close packed organization of the lamellar droplets (generally in size range of 2 microns).

The inventive ordered liquid crystalline-isotropic composition preferably has a low shear viscosity in the range of 40,000 to 300,000 centipoises (cps) measured at 0.5 RPM using T-bar spindle A using the procedure described below. More preferably the viscosity range is 50,000 to 150,000 cps.
An important component of compositions according to the present invention is that of solid particulate optical modifiers, preferably light reflecting platelet shaped or platy particles. These particles will preferably have an average particle size D50 ranging from 25,000 to 150,000 nm.
For plate-like materials the average particle size is a number average value. The platelets are assumed to have a circular shape with the diameter of the circular surface averaged over many particles. The thickness of the plate-like particles is considered to be a separate parameter.
For instance, the platelets can have an average particle size of 35,000 nm and an average thickness of 400 nm. For purposes herein, thickness is considered to range from 100 to 600 nm. Laser light scattering can be utilized for measurement, except that light scattered data has to be mathematically corrected from the spherical to the non-spherical shape. Optical and electron microscopy may be used to determine average particle size. Thickness is normally only determined via optical or electron microscopy.

The refractive index of these particles is preferred to be at least 1.8, generally from 1.9 to 4, more preferably from 2 to 3, optimally between 2.5 and 2.8.

Illustrative but not limiting examples of light reflecting particles are bismuth oxychloride (single crystal platelets) and titanium dioxide and/or iron oxide coated mica.
Suitable bismuth oxychloride crystals are available from EM
Industries, Inc. under the trademarks Biron0 NLY-L-2X CO and BironC) Silver CO (wherein the platelets are dispersed in castor oil); BironC) Liquid Silver (wherein the particles are dispersed in a stearate ester); and Nailsyn0 IGO, Nailsyn II C2X and NailsynC) II Platinum 25 (wherein the platelets are dispersed in nitrocellulose). Most preferred is a system where bismuth oxychloride is dispersed in a C2 - C40 alkyl ester such as in BironC) Liquid Silver.

Among the suitable titanium dioxide coated mica platelets are materials available from EM Industries, Inc. These include Timiron MP-45 (particle size range 49,000 - 57,000 nm), Timironl)MP- 99 (particle size range 47,000 - 57,000 nm), Timiron MP-47 (particle size range 28,000 - 38,000 nm), Timiron MP-149 (particle size range 65,000 - 82,000 nm), and Timiron MP-18 (particle size range 41,000 - 51,000 nm). Most preferred is Timiron MP-149. The weight ratio of titanium dioxide coating to the mica platelet may range from 1:10 to 5:1, preferably from 1:6 to 1:7, by weight.
Advantageously the preferred compositions will generally be substantially free of titanium dioxide outside of that required for coating mica.

Among the suitable iron oxide and titanium dioxide coated mica platelets are materials available from EM Industires, Inc. These include Timiron MP-28 (particle size range 27,000 - 37,000 nm), Timiron MP-29 (particle size range 47,000 - 55,000 nm), and Timiron MP-24 (particle size range 56,000 - 70,000 nm). Most prefered is Timiron MP-24.

Among the suitable iron oxide coated mica platelets are materials available from EM Industires, Inc. These include Colorona Bronze Sparkle (particle size range 28,000 -42,000 nm), Colorona Glitter Bronze (particle size range 65,000 - 82,000 nm), Colorona Copper Sparkle (particle size range 25,000 - 39,000 nm), and Colorona Glitter Copper (particle size range 65,000 - 82,000 nm).

Suitable coatings for mica other than titanium dioxide and iron oxide may also achieve the appropriate optical properties required for the present invention. These types of coated micas must also meet the refractive index of at least 1.8. Other coatings include silica on the mica platelets.

Advantageously, optional active agents other than conditioning agents such as emollients or moisturizers defined above may be added to the cleansing composition in a safe and effective amount during formulation to treat the skin during the use of the product. These active ingredients may be advantageously selected from antimicrobial and antifungal actives, vitamins, anti-acne actives; anti-wrinkle, anti-skin atrophy and skin repair actives; skin barrier repair actives; non- steroidal cosmetic soothing actives; artificial tanning agents and accelerators; skin lightening actives; sunscreen actives;
sebum stimulators; sebum inhibitors; anti-oxidants; protease inhibitors; skin tightening agents; anti-itch ingredients;
hair growth inhibitors; 5-alpha reductase inhibitors;
desquamating enzyme enhancers; anti-glycation agents;
topical anesthetics, or mixtures thereof; and the like.

These active agents may be selected from water-soluble active agents, oil soluble active agents, pharmaceutically-acceptable salts and mixtures thereof. Advantageously the agents will be soluble or dispersible in the cleansing composition. The term "active agent" as used herein, means personal care actives which can be used to deliver a benefit to the skin and/or hair and which generally are not used to confer a conditioning benefit, as is conferred by humectants and emollients previously described herein. The term "safe and effective amount" as used herein, means an amount of active agent high enough to modify the condition to be treated or to deliver the desired skin care benefit, but low enough to avoid serious side effects. The term "benefit,"
as used herein, means the therapeutic, prophylactic, and/or chronic benefits associated with treating a particular condition with one or more of the active agents described herein.

What is a safe and effective amount of the active agent ingredient will vary with the specific active agent, the ability of the active to penetrate through the skin, the age, health condition, and skin condition of the user, and other like factors. Preferably the composition of the present invention comprise from 0.01 % to 50 %, more preferably from 0.05 % to 25 %, even more preferably 0.1 %
to 10 %, and most preferably 0.1 % to 5 %, by weight of the active agent component.

Anti-acne actives can be effective in treating acne vulgaris, a chronic disorder of the pilosebaceous follicles.
Non-limiting examples of useful anti-acne actives include the keratolytics such as salicylic acid (o-hydroxybenzoic acid), derivatives of salicylic acid such as 5-octanoyl salicylic acid and 4 methoxysalicylic acid, and resorcinol;
retinoids such as retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., cis and trans); sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and their derivatives and salts, particularly their N-acetyl derivatives, mixtures thereof and the like.

Anti-microbial and anti-fungal actives can be effective to prevent the proliferation and growth of bacteria and fungi.
Non-limiting examples of anti-microbial and anti-fungal actives include b-lactarn drugs, quinolone drugs, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin, tetracycline, erythromycin, amikacin, 2,4,4Y-trichloro-2v-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4T- trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol, triclosan;
triclocarban; and mixtures thereof and the like.

Anti-wrinkle, anti-skin atrophy and skin repair actives can be effective in replenishing or rejuvenating the epidermal layer. These actives generally provide these desirable skin care benefits by promoting or maintaining the natural process of desquamation. Non-limiting examples of anti-wrinkle and anti-skin atrophy actives include vitamins, minerals, and skin nutrients such as milk, vitamins A, E, and K; vitamin alkyl esters, including vitamin C alkyl esters; magnesium, calcium, copper, zinc and other metallic components; retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., cis and trans); retinal; retinol; retinyl esters such as retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, and retinyl propionate; vitamin B 3 compounds (such as niacinamide and nicotinic acid), alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, e.g. salicylic acid and derivatives thereof (such as 5-octanoyl salicylic acid, heptyloxy 4 salicylic acid, and 4-methoxy salicylic acid);
mixtures thereof and the like.

Skin barrier repair actives are those skin care actives which can help repair and replenish the natural moisture barrier function of the epidermis. Non-limiting examples of skin barrier repair actives include lipids such as cholesterol, ceramides, sucrose esters and pseudo-ceramides as described in European Patent Specification No. 556,957; ascorbic acid;
biotin; biotin esters; phospholipids, mixtures thereof, and the like.

Non-steroidal cosmetic,soothing actives can be effective in preventing or treating inflammation of the skin. The soothing active enhances the skin appearance benefits of the present invention, e.g., such agents contribute to a more uniform and acceptable skin tone or color. Non-limiting examples of cosmetic soothing agents include the following categories: propionic acid derivatives; acetic acid derivatives; fenamic acid derivatives; mixtures thereof and the like. Many of these cosmetic soothing actives are described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,985,459 to Sunshine et al., issued Jan. 15, 1991.

Artificial tanning actives can help in simulating a natural suntan by increasing melanin in the skin or by producing the appearance of increased melanin in the skin. Non-limiting examples of artificial tanning agents and accelerators include dihydroxyacetaone; tyrosine; tyrosine esters such as ethyl tyrosinate and glucose tyrosinate; mixtures thereof, and the like.

Skin lightening actives can actually decrease the amount of melanin in the skin or provide such an effect by other mechanisms. Non-limiting examples of skin lightening actives useful herein include aloe extract, alpha-glyceryl-L-ascorbic acid, aminotyroxine, ammonium lactate, glycolic acid, hydroquinone, 4 hydroxyanisole, mixtures thereof, and the like.

Also useful herein are sunscreen actives. A wide variety of sunscreen agents are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,087,445, to Haffey et al., issued Feb. 11, 1992; U.S. Pat. No.
5,073,372, to Turner et al., issued Dec. 17, 1991; U.S. Pat.
No. 5,073,371, to Turner et al. issued Dec. 17, 1991; and Segarin, et al., at Chapter VIII, pages 189 et seq., of Cosmetics Science and Technology. Non-limiting examples of sunscreens which are useful in the compositions of the present invention are those selected from octyl methoxyl cinnamate (Parsol MCX) and butyl methoxy benzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N,N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, oxybenzone, mixtures thereof, and the like.

Sebum stimulators can increase the production of sebum by the sebaceous glands. Non-limiting examples of sebum stimulating actives include bryonolic acid, dehydroetiandrosterone (DHEA), orizanol, mixtures thereof, and the like.

Sebum inhibitors can decrease the production of sebum by the sebaceous glands. Non-limiting examples of useful sebum inhibiting actives include aluminum hydroxy chloride, corticosteroids, dehydroacetic acid and its salts, dichlorophenyl imidazoldioxolan (available from Elubiol), mixtures thereof, and the like.

Also useful as actives in the present invention are protease inhibitors. Protease inhibitors can be divided into two general classes: the proteinases and the peptidases.
Proteinases act on specific interior peptide bonds of proteins and peptidases act on peptide bonds adjacent to a free amino or carboxyl group on the end of a protein and thus cleave the protein from the outside. The protease inhibitors suitable for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, proteinases such as serine proteases, metalloproteases, cysteine proteases, and aspartyl protease, and peptidases, such as carboxypepidases, dipeptidases and aminopepidases, mixtures thereof and the like.

Other useful as active ingredients in the present invention are skin tightening agents. Non-limiting examples of skin tightening agents which are useful in the compositions of the present invention include monomers which can bind a polymer to the skin such as terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, (meth)acrylic acid and a hydrophobic monomer comprised of long chain alkyl (meth)acrylates, mixtures thereof, and the like.

Active ingredients in the present invention may also include anti-itch ingredients. Suitable examples of anti-itch ingredients which are useful in the compositions of the present invention include hydrocortisone, methdilizine and trimeprazineare, mixtures thereof, and the like.

Non-limiting examples of hair growth inhibitors which are useful :in the compositions of the present invention include 17 beta estradiol, anti-angiogenic steroids, curcuma extract, cycloxygenase inhibitors, evening primrose oil, linoleic acid and the like. Suitable 5-alpha reductase inhibitors such as ethynylestradiol and, genistine mixtures thereof, and the like.

Non-limiting examples of desquamating enzyme enhancers which are useful in the compositions of the present invention include alanine, aspartic acid, N methyl serine, serine, trimethyl glycine, mixtures thereof, and the like.

A non-limiting example of an anti-glycation agent which is useful :in the compositions of the present invention would be Amadorine (available from Barnet Products Distributor), and the like.
EXAMPLES
The invention will now be described in greater detail by way of the following non-limiting examples. The examples are for illustrative purposes only and not intended to limit the invention in any way. Physical test methods are described below.

Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts or ratios of materials or conditions or reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use are to be understood as modified by the word "about".

Where used in the specification, the term "comprising' is intended to include the presence of stated features, integers, steps, components, but not to preclude the presence or addition of one or more features, integers, steps, components or groups thereof.

All percentages in the specification and examples are intended to be by weight unless stated otherwise.

Examples 1 to 11 (Isotropic Structure) Examples of the inventive cleansing compositions (examples 1 - 7 below) were prepared, and their stability and visual effect on skin and tile substrates after rinse off were compared to non-inventive compositions (examples 8 - 11 below) . The inventive compositions were found to pro-vide a significant change in skin and tile appearance compared to the comparative examples.
Examples 1 - 11 Examples Inventive/ Inv. Inv. Inv. Inv. Inv. Inv. Inv. Corn Corn -Corn Corn comparative Cornponents (INCI name) (% Active by wt.) Ammonium 5.02 5.02 4.14 5.02 4.87 5.02 5.02 4.87 5.02 Lauryl Sulfate (1) Ammonium 3.98 3.98 3.28 3.98 3.86 3.98 3.98 3.86 3.98 Laureth Sulfate (1) Cocamide MEA 0.86 0.86 0.71 0.86 0.84 0.86 0.86 0.84 0.86 (1) PEG-5 Cocamide 0.43 0.43 0.36 0.43 0.42 0.43 0.43 0.42 0.43 (1) Sodium Laureth Sulfate 10 10.15 (2) Cocamidopropyl 1.8 2 1.5 1.8 1.5 1.8 0.8 2 1.5 0.8 Betaine (3) Acrylates 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.4 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.5 1.2 1.2 1.5 Copolymer (4) Guar 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Hydroxypropyltri monium chloride (5) Polyquaternium-6 1.5 (6) Polyquaternium- 0.1 0.1 (7) Wheatgermamido 0.2 propyl dimethylamine hydrolized wheat protein (8) PEG-14M (9) 0.15, PEG-45M (10) 0.05 Mica and TiO2 0.5 0.5 0.45 0.45 0.9 0.45 (10-150pm)(11) Mica and TiO2 and 0.05 0.05 0.1 0.05 0.5 iron oxide (10-150pm)(12) Mica and TiO2 0.05 (<50pm)(13) Mica and TiO2 and 0.01 iron oxide (10-150pm)(14) Mica and TiO2 and 0.07 iron oxide (5-100pm)(15) Mica and TiO2 (5-0.5 25pm)(16) Mica and TiO2 and 0.5 triethoxy caprylylsilane(17) Polyethylene (18) Glycerin 1 1 1 0.5 1 1.25 1, 0.5 1.25 0.5 Shea Butter 0.01 0.01 Divinyldimethicone 0.9 0.9 / Dimethicone copolymer Propylene glycol 1.75 1.1 0.15 0.65 Sodium chloride 0.8 0.75 Ammonium 1.1 0.2 0.2 0.5 chloride Methylchloroiso- 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 thiazolinone and methylisothiazol-inone (x 10-4) DMDM Hydantoin 0.1 Sodium Benzoate 0.5 Tetrasodium 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 EDTA (x 10-2) Citric acid 0.4 Sodium hydroxide 1 0.4 0.2 0.2 1 1 2 0.75 1 1.5 (x 10-1) Benzophenone-4 0.1 Fragrance 1.3 0.9 0.6 0.8 0.6 0.6 0.6 1.3, 0.9 0.6 0.6 Water q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
to to to to to to to to to to to 100 100 100 100 _ 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Properties Viscosity (x 104), 2.3 1.97 1.5 2.35 2.34 1.9 0.94 2.45 1.45 cps (21) pH (25 C) 5.5 5.5 5.5 6.6 5.5 6.5 5.4 6.3 4.6 6.7 6.6 Stability (yes/no) yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes no yes (22) (22a)(22a) . _ (22a) Visual effect Yes, Yes, Yes, Yes, "Yes, Yes, No, No, No, No, No, determination con con lab con lab tile/ lab tile/ con tile tile/
(yes/no, method lab lab lab = used) (23) Glittercount(24) 5 5 Notes (1) ALMEO blend Stepan (2) EMAL 270 Huntsman (3) Tegobetaine F Goldschmidt (4) Aqua SF-1 Noveon (5)Jaguar C13S Rhodia (6) Merquat 100 Ondeo Nalco (7) Polymer JR-400 Amerchol (8) Mackpro WWP McIntyre (9) Polyox WSR N-3000 Amerchol (10) Polyox WSR N-60K Amerchol (11) Timiron MP-149 END Chemicals (12) Colorona Glitter Copper END Chemicals (13) Flamenco Ultra Sparkle 4500 Englehard (14) Timiron MP-24 END Chemicals (15) Timiron MP-25 END Chemicals (16) Timiron MP-1001 END Chemicals (17) Timiron MP-1001AS Cardre (18) Microthene MN711/20 Equistar (19) Cetiol SE-45 Cognis (20) HMW 2220 Nonionic Emulsion Dow Corning (21) Brookfield RVDV-I+, CP 41, 0.5rpm; 25 C.
Viscosity is adjusted by adding sart (s) such as ammonium chloride or sulfate or sodium chloride to increase viscosity and propylene gLycol to decrease viscosity as the case may be.
(22) Stability test (see method beLow) (22a) Evaluated for stability only at room temperature, and only by visual inspection (not viscosity) and were stable.
(23) Yes/No: see criteria in method discussion below.
Methods: con = consumer evaluation, lab = lab evaluation, tile = tile evaluation, tile/lab = tile and lab evaluation (24) See glitter count method below-.

Example preparation details:

Examples 1, 6, and 8 Add water (49 %) and start heating to 55 C
Add Aqua SF1 polymer At 55 C, add ALMEO blend; mix 10-20 min Add shea butter =
Add betaine Add quench water (15 % of batch) Add NaOH soln Add Jaguar submix (Jaguar, glycerin, propylene glycol) Add Timiron submix (Timiron + 2 % water) Add Versene 100 Adjust pH to 5.5 At 45 C, add Kathon At 40 C, add fragrance Adjust viscosity to 18,000-25,000 cps Example 2 Add water (37.6 %) and start heating to 60 C
Add Aqua SF1 polymer Add EDTA
Add betaine Add SLES at 60 C
Mix until homogeneous Add water (30 %) Add NaCI
Add glycerin/Jaguar submix Add NaOH
Add Timiron/water premix (Timiron + 2 % water) Under 45 C add Glydant At 40 C, add fragrance Adjust pH to 5.5 Adjust viscosity to 10,000 cps Example 3 Add water (37.6 %) and start heating to 60 C
Add Aqua SF1 polymer Add EDTA
Add betaine Add SLES at 60 C
Mix until homogeneous Add water (30 %) Add NaCI
Add NaOH
Add Timiron/water premix (Timiron + 2 % water) Under 45 C add Glydant At 40 C, add fragrance Adjust pH to 5.5 Adjust viscosity to 10,000 cps Add polyethylene particles Example 4 Add water (47 ./0) and start heating to 55 C
Add Aqua SF1 polymer At 55 C, add ALMEO blend; mix 10-20 min Add glycerin Add Versene 100 Add water (15 %) Add betaine/Merquat 100 submix Slowly add Timiron/water submix (Timiron + 2 % water) Adjust pH to 5.5 At 45 C, add Kathon At 40 C, add fragrance Adjust viscosity to 18,000-25,000 cps Example 5 Add water (50 %) Add Aqua SF-1 Add Almeo Begin to heat to 65 C
Once at Temp and dissolved add all of NaOH
Add Glycerin/Polyox submix mix Add Versene Add Remaining water Add Betaine Add Mackpro Add Timiron/water submix (Timiron + 2 % water) Let cool At 45 C, add Kathon At 40 C, add fragrance Example 7 Add water (47 %) and start heating to 60 C
Add Aqua SF1 polymer Add ALMEO blend; mix 10-20 min Add glycerin/Polyox submix (0.5 % glycerin) At 60 C and dissolved add NaOH
Add Versene Add water (20 %) Add betaine Add Jaguar/0.75 % glycerin/propylene glycol premix Let cool At 45 C add Kathon Add Timiron premix At 40 C add fragrance Add HMW 2220 Adjust pH to 6.5 Adjust viscosity to 18,000-24,000 cps Examples 9 and 12 Add water (56 %) and start heating to 55 C
Add Aqua SF1 polymer At 55 C, add ALMEO blend; mix 10-20 min Add shea butter Add Versene 100 Add quench water (14 %) Add betaine Add glycerin Add Uvinul At 45 C, add Kathon At 40 C, add fragrance/polymer JR400 submix Add NaOH solution to pH 6.5 Add Flamenco/water submix (2 % water) Adjust viscosity to 14,000-19,000 cps Example 10 Add water (39 %) and start heating to 60 C
Add Aqua SF1 polymer Add betaine Add SLES
Mix until homogeneous Add water (30 %) Add NaOH solution Add NaCI solution Add Timiron/water premix (2 % water) At 45 C, add sodium benzoate Add citric acid Add Euperlan Add fragrance Adjust pH to 4.7 Adjust viscosity to 10,000 cps Example 11 Add water (47 %) and start heating to 60 C
Add Aqua SF1 polymer Add ALMEO blend; mix 10-20 min Add glycerin (0.5 %) At 60 C and dissolved add NaOH
Add Versene Add water (20 %) Add betaine Add Jaguar/0.75 % glycerin/propylene glycol premix At 45 C add Kathon At 40 C add fragrance Add HMIN 2220/Timiron premix Adjust pH to 6.5 Adjust viscosity to 18,000-24,000 cps Examples lA to 7A (Lamellar Structure) Examples of the inventive cleansing compositions (examples la - 5a below) were prepared and their stability and visual effect on skin and tile substrates after rinse off were compared to non-inventive compositions (examples 6a - 7a below). The inventive compositions were found to provide a significant change in skin and tile appearance compared to the comparative examples.

Examples la - 7a Examples la 2a 3a 4a 5a 6a 7a Inventive/Comparative Inv. Inv. Inv. Inv. Inv.
Comp. Comp.
Component (INCI name) ( /0 Active by wt.) Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (1) 3.9 3.9 3.9 3.9 3.9 3.9 3.9 Ammonium Laureth Sulfate 3.1- 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 (1) Cocamide MEA (1) 0.67 0.67 0.67 0.67 0.67 0.67 0.67 PEG-5 Cocamide (1) 0.33 0.33 0.33 0.33 0.33 0.33 0.33 Cocamidopropyl Betaine (2) 4 4 4 4 4 Cocamide MEA (3) 1.05 1 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 Lauric Acid (4) 1.2 4 2.5 2.5- 1 2.5 2.5 Guar Hydroxpropyl 0.7 0.5 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Trimonium Chloride (5) Glycerin 5.7 2 5.7 5.7 5.7 5.7 5.7 Sunflower Seed Oil 21.3 2.5 5 5- 21.3 Petrolatum (5a) 3.7 2.5 31 3.7 3.7 3.7 3.7 Cholesterol/lanolin alcohol (6) 0.46 0.46 Mica and TiO2 (7) 1 0.45 0.5 Mica and TiO2 and iron oxide 0.05 0.5 (8) Bismuth Oxychloride and ethylhexyl hydroxystearate (9) Mica and TiO2 and triethoxycaprylylsilane (10) DMDM Hydantoin 0.055 0.055 0.055 0.055 0.055 0.055 0.055 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 Etidronic Acid 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 Fragrance 1 0.6 1 1 1 DI Water to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 Properties:
Viscosity (x 104) (cps) 25 C 8.64 7.25 6.76 -9.56 (11) Viscosity (x 104) cps 25 C 1.186 (12) pH (25 C) 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.6 5.7 5.5 5.5 Stability (13) stable stable stable stable stable stable stable (13a) (13a) Visual effect determination Yes, Yes, Yes, Yes, Yes, No, lab No, lab (yes/no, method used) (14) con lab _tile tile lab Notes (1) ALMEO blend Stepan (2) Tegobetaine F Goldschmidt (3) Mackamide CMA McIntyre (4) Prifrac 2922 Uniqema (5) Jaguar C13S Rhodia (5a) G-1937 Hard Penreco (6) Super Hartolan Croda (7)Timiron MP-149 (10-150um) EMD Chemicals (8) Colorona Glitter EMD Chemicals Copper(10-150um) (9) Biron Liquid Silver EMD Chemicals (10) Timiron MP-1001AS Cardre (11) Brookfield RV DV-II+, T-bar, 0.5 rpm.
(12) Brookfield RVDV-I+, CP 41, 0.5 rpm.
(13) Stability test (see method below) (13a) Evaluated for stability only at room temperature, and only by visual inspection (not viscosity), and were stable.
(14) Yes/No: see criteria in method discussion below.
Methods: con = consumer evaluation, lab = lab evaluation, tile = tile evaluation, tile/lab = tile and lab evaluation (see below for methods) (15) See glitter count method below.

Example preparation details Examples 1a, 5a Add sunflower oil (14.3 %) Add Super Hartolan and CMEA
Add lauric acid and petrolatum Heat to 70 C until all dissolved Add glycerin Stop heating Add water (7 %) Add betaine Add ALMEO blend; mix until smooth Add rest of water (27 %) Add particles Add Jaguar/7 % oil blend Add EDTA and EHDP
Add Glydant Add fragrance Mix until cools to 35 C

Examples 2a, 3a, 4a, 6a, 7a Add water (40 %) Add betaine; start heating to 70 C
Add CMEA at 60 C
Mix until dissolved Add ALMEO; mix until smooth Stop heating at 70 C
Heat premix to 70 C
(premix = oil, lauric acid, petrolatum, Timiron) When premix is at 70 C, add to batch Add rest of water (17 %) Add Jaguar/glycerin blend Add EDTA and EHDP
Add Glydant Add fragrance Methods Stability Method Samples are stored at the following conditions and evaluated at the following time points.
Condition Time Evaluations Evaluation Points Room 12 weeks Viscosity, Visual Initial Temperature 1 day 1, 2, 4, 8, 12 weeks 40 C 12 weeks Visual only 1, 2, 4, 8, 12 weeks 50 C 1 week Viscosity, Visual 1 week -9 C/25 C cycle 3 cycles (6 days) Viscosity, Visual 1 week (24 hours at each temp.) Viscosity: Measured by the method indicated for each example Visual evaluation: color, odor, and appearance A sample is considered stable if its viscosity and visual evaluation do not change significantly (i.e. greater than 20 % relative) from the initial measurements at all conditions.

Tile evaluation method Prepare clay tiles with tan colored Sculpey II Polymer Clay (Polyform Products, Elk Grove, IL) by kneading clay, then rolling to a uniform thickness (2-3mm) with a rolling pin.
Cut 1" by 1" squares and press down 100 grain sandpaper on each square to make an even impression of the sandpaper on the clay. Bake for 15 minutes at 120 C and cool.

Wash tiles by placing 0.1g product on a wet tile. Add 0.2g water and rub for 15 seconds with a latex gloved finger.
Rinse with tap water at 35-45 C at a flow rate of 13-14 ml/sec, holding the tile 5 cm away at a 45-degree angle.
Blot once with a paper towel and air dry for 15 minutes.
Visually evaluate the quantity of optical particles left on the tiles.

Yes = At least 15 sparkles visible on a tile.
No = less than this value.

Hand wash (Consumer evaluation) method Give the product to naive consumers to use according to the following instructions: "Use similar to your regular body wash, applying to wet skin, sponge, washcloth, or pouf.
Work into a lather and rinse." Ask consumers if they saw any change in the appearance of their skin, e.g. whether their skin looked radiant, shimmery, lustrous, glowing, etc.
Naive consumers are defined as consumers that have not been trained in any way - in the use of the product or in what to look for on the skin.
Yes = at least 51 % of consumers report seeing a visual change.
No = less than this value.

Hand wash (lab evaluation) method Dispense approximately 1.5g product on wet hands. Rub hands together to generate lather, adding water as needed. Rinse hands under running water at 35-45 C until hands feel clean.
Pat dry with paper towel. Inspect hands visually for optical particles left behind.

Yes = At least 5 sparkles/cm2 visible on hands.
No = less than this value.
Tile/lab evaluation method is a combination of the Tile evaluation method and the lab evaulation method.

In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol (Porcine/pig skin assay) Take a piece of black porcine skin (L= 40 3) with the dimensions of 5.0 cm x 10.0 cm and mount it on a black background paper card. Initial measurements are made of the untreated skin. The mounted skin is then washed 1 to 2 minutes with "normal" rubbing with the composition to be tested and rinsed for 1/2 minute with 45 C tap water. After 2 hours of drying at 25 C, the final measurements for color Li, a*, b*; reflectivity and opacity are made.

Color Measurements The initial and final color measurements of porcine or in-vivo human skin are made with a Hunter Lab spectracolormeter using a 0 light source and 45 detector geometry. The spectracolormeter is calibrated with the appropriate black and white standards. Measurements are made before and after the wash treatment. Three measurements are made each time and averaged. The values obtained are L, a*, b*, which come from the La*b* color space representation.
Opacity Determination The opacity of the skin treated by the cleansing composition can be derived from the hunter Lab color measurements. The opacity contrast value is calculated from the delta L (which is the change in whiteness after deposition) divided by 60 (which is the difference in L value of the skin and a pure white color).

Reflectance or Radiance Determination The initial and final reflectance/radiance measurement of porcine or in-vivo human skin is made with a glossmeter before and after treatment with the cleansing composition.
The glossmeter is first set with both the detector and light source at 85 from normal. Then the glossmeter is calibrated with an appropriate reflection standard. Measurements are made before and after application and rinsing off of the cleansing composition and the percent difference calculated.

Since a noticeable change in the skin when treated with the inventive composition may provide only scattered areas of skin appearance enhancement (such as point sparkle, glitter, etc.) instead of a continuous change over a wider expanse of the skin better suited to instrumental analysis using the glossmeter etc; for the purposes of defining the level of skin appearance change required to be shown for the inventive composition, a "yes" result in either the Tile method, the Consumer method, the Hand wash (lab) method, or any combination thereof is to be considered equivalent to at least a 5 % change in reflectivity when the inventive cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol.

In-vivo Glitter Count Glitter count is a useful indicator regarding deposition but must be supplemented with other visual appearance methods to establish whether a sufficient change in visual appearance exists.
Method Wash a 5 cm by 10 cm section of an inside forearm of a human panelist with the cleansing composition for 1 to 2 minutes with "normal" rubbing and rinse for 1/2 minute with 45 C tap water. Let air dry for 20 min (no wiping) at 25 C. Then, under an intense light source or sunlight, count the number of sparkles seen in the washed area. The minimum number of sparkles counted considered for a "good" deposition is 2.
The results are compared to a control consisting of the surfactant system and deionized water alone. The glitter count of the control is zero (i.e. no observable deposition).

Cone and Plate Viscosity Measurement Scope This method covers the measurement of the viscosity of the isotropic phase cleansing composition.
Apparatus Brookfield Cone and Plate DV-II+ Viscometer.
Spindle S41.
Procedure 1. Turn on Water Bath attached to the sample cup of the viscometer. Make sure that it is set for 25 C. Allow temperature readout to stabilize at 25 C before proceeding.

¨ 58 -2. With the power to the viscometer off, remove the spindle (S41) by turning counterclockwise.

3. Turn the power on and press any key as requested to autozero the viscometer.

4. When the autozero function is complete, replace the spindle (turning clockwise) and press any key.
5. Attach the sample cup. Using the up/down arrow keys, slowly change the speed to 10 rpm and press the SET
SPEED key. Use the SELECT DISPLAY key so that the display is in % mode.' 6. Turn the motor on. If the display jumps to 0.4 % or higher or will not settle to 0 0.1 %, turn the adjustment ring clockwise until it does.

7. Rotate the adjustment ring counterclockwise until the reading is fluctuating between 0.0 and 1.0 %. The fluctuation must occur approximately every 6 seconds.

8. Turn the adjustment ring clockwise exactly the width of one division from the setting reached in step 7.

9. Turn the motor off. Using the up/down arrow keys, slowly change the speed to 0.5 rpm and press the SET
SPEED key. Use the SELECT DISPLAY so that the display is in cP.
10. Place 2 0.1g of product to be measured into the sample cup. Attach the cup to the viscometer.

11. Allow the product to remain in the cup with the motor OFF for 2 minutes.

12. Turn the motor ON and allow the spindle to turn for 2 minutes before noting the reading on the display.

T¨bar Viscosity Measurement Scope This method covers the measurement of the viscosity of the ordered liquid crystalline cleansing composition.

Apparatus Brookfield RVT Viscometer with Helipath Accessory.
Chuck, weight and closer assembly for T-bar attachment.
T¨bar Spindle A.

PLastic cups diameter greater than 2.5 inches.

Procedure 1. Verify that the viscometer and the helipath stand are level by referring to the bubble levels on the back of the instrument.

2. Connect the chuck/closer/weight assembly to the Viscometer. (Note the left-hand coupling threads).

3. Clean Spindle A with deionized water and pat dry with a Kimwipe sheet. Slide the spindle in the closer and tighten.

4. Set the rotational speed at 0.5 RPM. In case of a digital viscometer (DV) select the % mode and press autozero with the motor switch on.

5. Place the product in a plastic cup with inner diameter of greater than 2.5 inches. The height of the product in the cup should be at least 3 inches. The temperature of the product should be 25 C.

6. Lower the spindle into the product (-1/4 inches). Set the adjustable stops of the helipath stand so that the spindle does not touch the bottom of the plastic cup or come out of the sample.

7. Start the viscometer and allow the dial to make one or two revolutions before turning on the Helipath stand.
Note the dial reading as the helipath stand passes the middle of its downward traverse.

' CA 02561501 2011-11-21 , - 61 ¨

8. Multiply the dial reading by a factor of 4,000 and report the viscosity reading in cps.

While this invention has been described with respect to particular embodiments thereof, it is apparent that numerous other forms and modifications of the invention will be obvious to those skilled in the art.

Claims (25)

1. An isotropic liquid cleansing composition comprising:
(a) 1 to 35 wt. % of surfactant(s) selected from an anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic surfactant or mixtures thereof;
(b) a thickening agent;
(c) 0.1% to 10% of a cationic polymer;
(d) a solid particulate optical modifier in a concentration of at least 0.2% by wt. for exhibiting a specific set of optical properties on skin characterized by one or more skin evaluation methods selected from Tile evaluation method, Hand wash (consumer evaluation) method, Hand wash (lab evaluation) method, or a set of Tristimulus Color Values L, a*, and b*; a reflectivity change, and an opacity change, that provides at least a 5%
change in at least one of the specific optical properties when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol;
(e) wherein the viscosity of the isotropic cleansing composition is in the range of 1,000 to 300,000 cps @ 1/sec shear rate at 25°C via the cone and plate method;
(f) less than 0.01% of a hydrophobic emollient; and (g) wherein the solid particulate optical modifier is selected from organic pigments, inorganic pigments, platy substrate coated with organic and inorganic materials, or blends and physical aggregates thereof.

2. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the optical properties targeted by the optical modifier is selected from skin shine, skin color or skin optical uniformity, and combinations thereof.

3. The composition according to claim 2 wherein the change in L value is in the range from about 0 to ~10, the reflectance change in the range from about 0 to ~300%, and the change in opacity in the range from about 0 to ~20% with the proviso that the change in L value, reflectance change and opacity change are not all zero so as to provide noticeable skin shine when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol.

4. The composition according to claim 2 wherein the change in L value is in the range from about 0 to ~10 the change in the a* value is in the range from about 0 to ~10, a change in the b* value in the range from about 0 to ~10 the change in opacity in the range from about 0 to ~50%, and the reflectance change is within the normal skin reflectivity range of about ~10% with the proviso that the change in L
value, b* and opacity change are not all zero so as to provide noticeable skin lightening or color change when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol.

5. The composition according to claim 2 wherein the change in L value is in the range from about 0 to ~5, the reflectance change is in the range from about 0 to ~100%, the change in opacity is in the range from about 0 to ~50%, and the change in a* and b* are within normal skin color range of about ~10% for each of a* or b*, with the proviso that the change in L value, reflectance change and opacity change are not all zero so as to provide noticeable skin optical uniformity change when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol.

6. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the cationic polymer has a charge density of at least 0.7 Meq/g.

7. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the composition contains an anionic surfactant and the ratio of anionic surfactant to a surfactant that has a positive charge at a pH of about 6.5 or below is in the range of about 15:1 to about 1:2.

8. A composition according to claim 7 wherein the surfactant with the positive charge is an amphoteric surfactant.

9. A composition according to claim 8 wherein the amphoteric surfactant is selected from betaine, alkylamidopropyl betaine, sulphobetaine, amphoacetate or blends thereof.

10. A composition according to claim 1 further comprising greater than about 30% by weight water.

11. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the viscosity of the cleansing composition is in the range of about 5,000 to about 50,000 cps.

12. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the solid particulate optical modifier has an average diameter of at least 30 microns.

13. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the thickening agent is selected from polyacrylates; silica, natural and synthetic waxes; aluminum silicate; lanolin derivatives; C8 to C20 fatty alcohols polyethylene copolymers; polyammonium carboxylates; sucrose esters;
hydrophobic clays; petrolatum; hydrotalcites; cellulose derivatives, polysaccharide derivatives, or derivatives and mixtures thereof.

14. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the composition is structured with a structurant selected from swelling clays; cross-linked polyacrylates; acrylate homopolymers and copolymers; polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymers and copolymers; polyethylene imines; inorganic salts; sucrose esters, gellants or blends and derivatives thereof.

15. A composition according to claim 1 wherein less than about 50% by wt. of the solid particulate optical modifier is suspended in an oil.

16. A composition according to claim 7, wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from a C8 to 016 alkyl sulfate and/or alkyl ether sulfates, fatty acid soaps, taurates, sulfosuccinates, glycinates, sarcosinates or derivatives or blends thereof.

17. A composition according to claim 1 having at least 7 wt % of the surfactant.

18. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the particulate optical modifier possesses color generated through fluorescence, adsorption, iridescence or a combination thereof.

19. The composition according to claim 3 wherein greater than 10% by wt. of the particulate optical modifier is further defined by an exterior surface refractive index, geometry, and specific dimensions wherein:
i) the exterior surface has a refractive index of 1.8 to 4.0;
ii) the geometry is platy, cylindrical or a blend thereof; and iii) the specific dimensions are 10 to 200 µm average diameter in the case of a platy particle, or 10 to 200 µm in average length and 0.5 to 5.0 µm in average diameter in the case of a cylindrical particle.

20. The composition according to claim 4 wherein greater than 10% by wt. of the particulate optical modifier is further defined by an exterior surface refractive index, geometry, and specific dimensions wherein:
i) the exterior surface has a refractive index of 1.3 to 4.0 ii) the geometry is spheroidal, platy or a blend thereof iii) the specific dimensions are 1 to 30 µm average diameter in the case of a platy particle, or 0.1 to 1 µm in average diameter in the case of a spheroidal particle; and iv) optionally having fluorescence color, absorption color, interference color or a combination thereof.

21. The composition according to claim 5 wherein greater than 10% by wt. of the particulate optical modifier is further defined by an exterior surface refractive index, geometry, and specific dimensions wherein:
i) the exterior surface has a refractive index of 1.3 to 2.0 ii) the geometry is spheroidal, platy, cylindrical or a blend thereof iii) the specific dimensions are 0.1 to 200 µm in average diameter in the case of a spheroidal particle, 1 to 10 µm average diameter in the case of a platy particle, or 1 to 10 µm in average length and 0.5 to 5.0 µm in average diameter in the case of a cylindrical particle, and iv) optionally having fluorescence color, absorption color, interference color or a combination thereof.

22. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the particulate optical modifier is composed predominately of platy particles further defined by having an average plate diameter of 10 pm to 200 µm and a refractive index of at least 1.8.

23. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the cationic polymer is selected from cationic cellulose polymer(s), salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, cationic polysaccharide polymer(s), guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropylated cationic guar derivative(s) optionally containing a low level of substituent groups and/or cationic quaternary ammonium groups, or blends thereof.

24. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the particulate optical modifier contains a surface modification selected from amino acids, proteins, fatty acids, lipids, phospholipids (lecithin), anionic and/or cationic oligomers/polymers or blends or derivatives thereof to enhance the deposition of the optical modifier on to the skin.

25. A method of depositing a solid particulate optical modifier onto the skin from an isotropic liquid cleansing composition, comprising the steps of:
(a) providing said solid particulate optical modifier in said cleansing composition including:
(1) a surfactant selected from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof;
(2) a thickening agent, (3) 0.2% to 1% by weight of said solid particulate optical modifier of from 50 to 150 microns in average diameter, wherein the solid particulate optical modifier is selected from organic pigments, inorganic pigments, platy substrate coated with organic and inorganic materials, or blends and physical aggregates thereof;
(4) 0.1% to 10% of a cationic polymer; and (5) less than 0.01% of a hydrophobic emollient;
(b) applying said cleansing composition to the skin or hair; and (c) rinsing off said cleansing composition.