AU2021369845A1

AU2021369845A1 - Retinol compositions, methods of their preparation and use

Info

Publication number: AU2021369845A1
Application number: AU2021369845A
Authority: AU
Inventors: Toni OVENELL
Original assignee: Int Waters Pty Ltd T/a Alpha H
Current assignee: International Waters Pty Ltd T/a Alpha H
Priority date: 2020-10-27
Filing date: 2021-10-27
Publication date: 2023-06-08
Also published as: WO2022087666A1; GB2618220A; GB202307416D0

Abstract

A composition including 0.01-0.2% w/w retinol, 5-20% w/w alpha hydroxy acid, at least one emollient, at least one aqueous solvent, at least one emulsifying agent, at least one antioxidant, optionally at least one emulsion stabiliser, and optionally at least one skin conditioning agent, wherein the composition has a pH of 3.5 to 4.5.

Description

Retinol compositions, methods of their preparation and use

Field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates to retinol, retinoid and retinyl ester compositions suitable for application to the skin, uses thereof and methods of their preparation.

Background of the invention

[0002] The majority of the dermis of the skin is collagen. The collagen both supports the skin structure and retains moisture. Collagen fibres in the skin are reduced by exposure to ultraviolet radiation, a dry environment, and oxidation. The amount of collagen in the skin also reduces with age. Reduction of collagen is associated with reduced resilience and elasticity in the skin.

[0003] Retinol (also known as vitamin A) is one of the most effective ingredients for softening the appearance of wrinkles, refining skin texture, and improving uneven skin tone. This is achieved by increasing collagen production and promoting skin turnover.

[0004] Retinol, retinoids (derivatives of retinol), and retinyl esters are common ingredients used in cosmetic and dermatological products. Retinols have high photoreactivity and require protection from light (UV) and air (oxygen) for stable storage. They are also sensitive to heat, acid and alkaline conditions.

[0005] Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are class of chemical exfoliants commonly used in skin care products. The common AHAs are glycolic acid, lactic acid, and citric acid. AHA-containing products cause exfoliation, or shedding of the surface skin. The extent of exfoliation depends on the type and concentration of the AHA, its pH, and other ingredients in the product. The exfoliation occurs chemically by the dissolution of bonds between skin cells as opposed to manually by scrubbing the skin.

[0006] The performance of AHAs is better at lower pH. The free acid form of the AHAs is better able to penetrate the skin compared with the dissociated form. The pK_a of Glycolic acid is 3.83, lactic acid is 3.86, and Citric acid has pK_a1 2.98, pK_a24.28 and pK_a3 5.21. pH ranges of 3.5-4.5 are typically preferred for AHA formulations. This requirement needs to balanced with the other stability of other formulation ingredients such as emollients, esters, thickeners, emulsifiers. [0007] AHAs such as glycolic acid and lactic acid are thermally stable, although may be subject to polymerisation at high temperatures (above 50°C).

[0008] Despite the known benefits to using both retinols and AHAs, these ingredients are not formulated in the same compositions as the acid has been found to destabilise the retinol, negating the benefit of its inclusion in the formulation. It is also thought that the use of a retinol and an AHA together is too irritating.

[0009] It would be efficient for both ingredients to be formulated together so that the benefits of both ingredients can be achieved by the purchase of one product. There is a need for improved formulations of AHAs and/or retinols.

[0010] Reference to any prior art in the specification is not an acknowledgment or suggestion that this prior art forms part of the common general knowledge in any jurisdiction or that this prior art could reasonably be expected to be understood, regarded as relevant, and/or combined with other pieces of prior art by a skilled person in the art.

Summary of the invention

[0011] The present invention includes a composition which is surprisingly able to combine a retinol and an alpha hydroxy acid in a stable formulation.

[0012] The present invention provides, a composition including 0.01-0.2% w/w one or more retinol, 5-20% w/w one or more alpha hydroxy acid, at least one emollient, at least one aqueous solvent, at least one emulsifying agent, at least one antioxidant, optionally at least one emulsion stabiliser, and optionally at least one skin conditioning agent, wherein the composition has a pH of 3.5 to 4.5. Preferably, the pH is 3.7 to 4.3. More preferably, the PH is 3.8 to 4.2. Even more preferably, the pH is 3.9 to 4.1. Most preferably, the pH is about 4.

[0013] The one or more retinol ingredient is optionally hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol, retinyl acetate, retinyl linoleate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl proprionate, or combinations thereof. Preferably, the one or more retinol ingredient is optionally hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol, or combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the one or more retinol ingredient is hydroxypinacolone retinoate. In alternate embodiments, the one or more retinol ingredient is retinol. [0014] The alpha hydroxy acid is optionally glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, hydroxycaproic acid, hydroxycaprylic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or combinations thereof. Preferably, the alpha hydroxy acid is glycolic acid, lactic acid or combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the alpha hydroxy acid is glycolic acid. In other embodiments, the alpha hydroxy acid is lactic acid.

[0015] The one or more retinol ingredient is alternatively 0.05-0.2% w/w of the composition. In some embodiments, the one or more retinol ingredient is 0.07-0.15% w/w of the composition. Preferably, the one or more retinol ingredient is about 0.1% w/w of the composition.

[0016] Preferably, the one or more retinol ingredient is included as a 1 :9 w/w ratio of one or more retinol ingredient and the solvent dimethyl isosorbide. These compositions are 0.1-2.0% w/w of the one or more retinol ingredient and dimethyl isosorbide.

Alternatively, the composition is 0.5-2.0% w/w a 1 :9 w/w ratio of one or more retinol ingredient and the solvent dimethyl isosorbide. In some embodiments, the composition is 0.7-1 .5% w/w a 1 :9 w/w ratio of one or more retinol ingredient and the solvent dimethyl isosorbide. Preferably, the 1 :9 w/w one or more retinol ingredient and the solvent dimethyl isosorbide is 1% w/w of the composition.

[0017] In some embodiments, the composition is 10-20% w/w one or more alpha hydroxy acid. Alternatively, the composition is 12-16% w/w one or more alpha hydroxy acid. Preferably, the composition is 14% w/w one or more alpha hydroxy acid.

[0018] The at least one emollient is optionally 5-20% w/w of the formulation. The one or more retinol ingredient is oil soluble and will be solubilised within the oil phase formed by the oil phase formed by the at least one emollient. Alternatively, the at least one emollient is 8-15% w/w of the composition. Preferably, the composition is about 10-11 % w/w emollient.

[0019] Optionally, the at least one emollient is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, dimethocone, dicaprylyl carbonate, helianthus annuus seed oil, hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract and combinations thereof. Optionally, at least one emollient comprises all of the group consisting of glycerin, dimethocone, dicaprylyl carbonate, helianthus annuus seed oil, and hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract. [0020] The aqueous solvent is preferably water. The water and the one or more alpha hydroxy acid comprise the water phase of the composition. Optionally, the water is 40- 90% w/w of the composition. Alternatively, the water is 40-70% w/w or 50-60% w/w of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition is about 55% w/w water.

[0021] The at least one emulsifying agent is optionally 1 .0-2.5% w/w of the composition. Preferably, the at least one emulsifying agent is about 2% w/w of the composition. The at least one emulsifying agent will emulsify the emollient oil phase and the water/one or more alpha hydroxy acid aqueous phase of the emulsion.

[0022] Optionally, the at least one emulsifying agent is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, and combinations thereof. Optionally, at least one emulsifying agent comprises all of the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, and PEG-100 stearate.

[0023] The at least one antioxidant is optionally 0.5-2.0% w/w of the composition. Preferably, the at least one antioxidant is about 0.6% w/w of the composition (excluding the water and glycerin) or about 1 .6% w/w including the water and/or glycerin included with the antioxidants.

[0024] Optionally, the at least one antioxidant is selected from the group consisting of ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10), ferulic acid, Tasmannia lanceolata fruit/leaf extract, and combinations thereof. Optionally, at least one emulsifying agent comprises all of the group consisting of ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10), ferulic acid, and Tasmannia lanceolata fruit/leaf extract. Optionally, the Tasmannia lanceolata fruit/leaf extract is present in a composition further including glycerin and water, for example, 70% water, 28% glycerin, and 2% Tasmannia lanceolata fruit/leaf extract (ie Tazman Pepper).

[0025] The at least one emulsion stabiliser is optionally 0.5-1 .5% w/w of the composition. Preferably, the at least one emulsion stabiliser is about 1 % w/w of the composition. Optionally, the at least one emulsion stabiliser is sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate.

[0026] The at least one skin conditioning agent is optionally 5-20% w/w of the composition. Alternatively, the at least one skin conditioning agent is about 12-17% w/w of the composition. Preferably, the at least one skin conditioning agent is about 12-13% or 15-17% w/w of the composition. [0027] Optionally, the at least one skin conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of palmitoyl tripepetide-5, hydrolysed jojoba esters, tocopherol, hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract, ammonium glycyrrhizate, sodium hyaluronate, butylene glycol, propanediol and combinations thereof. Preferred, formulations include palmitoyl tripepetide-5 and/or hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract. Optionally, at least one skinconditioning agent comprises all of the group consisting of palmitoyl tripepetide-5, hydrolysed jojoba esters, tocopherol, hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract, ammonium glycyrrhizate, butylene glycol, propanediol and sodium hyaluronate.

[0028] The composition optionally further comprises one or more preservatives. Suitable preservatives include phenoxyethanol and/or caprylyl glycol.

[0029] The composition optionally further comprises one or more further solvents. Suitable solvents include dimethyl isosorbide. The skin conditioners propandiol and butylene glycol can also function as solvents.

[0030] The composition optionally further comprises one or more humectants. Suitable humectants include methyl gluceth-20 and/or glycerin.

[0031] In some embodiments, the composition of the invention includes:

- 0.05-0.2% w/w (preferably 0.1% w/w) one or more retinol ingredient or 0.5-2.0% w/w (preferably 1.0% w/w) of a retinol composition comprising 10% one or more retinol ingredient in 90% dimethyl isosorbide,

- 10-20% w/w (preferably 14% w/w) one or more alpha hydroxy acid,

- 0.001-0.003% w/w (preferably 0.002%) palmitoyl tripepetide-5,

- 0.5-2.0% w/w (preferably 0.6%) of at least one antioxidant selected from ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10), ferulic acid, Tasmannia lanceolata fruit/leaf extract, and combinations thereof, optionally the Tasmannia lanceolata fruit/leaf extract is in the form of Tazman Pepper (70% water, 28% glycerin and 2% Tasmannia lanceolata fruit/leaf extract).

- 8-15% w/w (preferably 10-11 % w/w) of at least one emollient,

- 1.0-2.5% (preferably 2%) of at least one emulsifying agent, - 0.5-1.5% w/w of at least one emulsion stabiliser

- at least one aqueous solvent; and

- at least one skin conditioning agent, wherein the composition has a pH of 3.9 to 4.1 (preferably, the pH is about 4).

[0032] In some embodiments, the composition of the invention includes:

- 10-20% w/w (preferably 14% w/w) one or more alpha hydroxy acid,

- 0.001-0.003% w/w (preferably 0.002%) palmitoyl tripepetide-5,

- 0.5-1.5% w/w (preferably 1 % w/w) Tazman Pepper (70% water, 28% glycerin and 2% Tasmannia lanceolata fruit/leaf extract),

- 0.005-0.15% w/w (preferable 0.1% w.w) ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10),

- 0.3-0.7% w/w (preferably 0.5% w/w) ferulic acid,

- 1.0-2.5% (preferably 2%) of at least one emulsifying agent,

- 0.5-1.5% w/w of at least one emulsion stabiliser

- at least one aqueous solvent; and

[0033] In some embodiments, the composition of the invention includes:

- 10-20% w/w (preferably 14% w/w) one or more alpha hydroxy acid, - 8-15% w/w (preferably 10-11 % w/w) of at least one emollient selected from glycerin, dimethocone, dicaprylyl carbonate, helianthus annuus seed oil, hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract, and combinations thereof,

- 1.0-2.5% (preferably 2%) of at least one emulsifying agent selected from cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, and combinations thereof,

- 0.5-2.0% w/w (preferably 0.6%) of at least one antioxidant selected from ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10), ferulic acid, Tasmannia lanceolata fruit/leaf extract, and combinations thereof,

- 0.5-1.5% w/w of at least one emulsion stabiliser

- at least one aqueous solvent; and

[0034] In some embodiments, the composition of the invention includes:

- 0.05-0.2% w/w (preferably 0.1% w/w) one or more retinol ingredient or 0.5-2.0% w/w (preferably 1.0% w/w) of a retinol composition comprising 10% one or more retinol ingredient in 90% dimethyl isosorbide

- 10-20% w/w (preferably 14% w/w) one or more alpha hydroxy acid,

- 8-15% w/w (preferably 10-11 % w/w) of at least one emollient selected from glycerin, dimethocone, dicaprylyl carbonate, helianthus annuus seed oil, hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract, and combinations thereof,

- 50-60% w/w (preferably about 55%) at least one aqueous solvent,

- 0.5-2.0% w/w (preferably 0.6%) of at least one antioxidant selected from ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10), ferulic acid, Tasmannia lanceolata fruit/leaf extract, and combinations thereof, - 0.5-1.5% w/w (preferably 1 % w/w) of at least one emulsion stabiliser selected from sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate; and

- 5-20% w/w (preferably 12-17% w/w) of at least one skin conditioning agent selected from palmitoyl tripepetide-5, hydrolysed jojoba esters, tocopherol, hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract, ammonium glycyrrhizate, sodium hyaluronate, butylene glycol, propanediol and combinations thereof, wherein the composition has a pH of 3.9 to 4.1 (preferably, the pH is about 4).

[0035] In some embodiments, the composition of the invention includes:

- 1.0% w/w of a retinol composition comprising 10% of hydroxypinacolone retinoate in 90% dimethyl isosorbide

- 14% w/w of glycolic acid,

- 55% water,

- 5.28% Glycerin, 5% Butylene glycol, 5% propanediol, 2% dicaprylyl carbonate, 2% dimethicone

- 1.3% potassium hydroxide

- 1.0% Cetyl alcohol, 1% hydrolysed jojoba esters, 1% methyl Gleceth-20

- 1.0% Sodium Polyacryloldimethyl taurate

- 1% Tocopherol

- 0.98% Helianthus annuus seed oil,

- 0.5060% Phenoxyethanol

- 0.5% Ferulic acid

- 0.5% Glyceryl Stearate, 0.5% PEG-100 Stearate

- 0.2% Ammonium Glycyrrhizate - 0.2% Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, 0.15% Carpyl Glycol. 0.1% Sodium Hyaluronate, 0.1% Ubiquinone, 0.02% Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract, 0.02% Tasmannia laceolata fruit/leaf extract,

- 0.0060 ethylhexylglycerin, and

- 0.002% palmotoyl tripeptide- 5 wherein the composition has a pH of 3.9 to 4.1 (preferably, the pH is about 4).

[0036] In some embodiments, 90, 95, 98, 99 or 99.5% w/w one or more retinol ingredient added to the composition remains retinol ingredient following preparation of the composition. In some embodiments, 70, 80, 85 or 90% w/w of the one or more alpha hydroxy acid added to the composition remains alpha hydroxy acid following preparation of the composition.

[0037] In some embodiments, the composition is stored in an opaque inert packaging, for example, a high density polyethylene bottle or jar. The opaque packaging will protect the composition from light. Preferably, 70, 80, 85, 90, 95, or 98% w/w of the one or more retinol ingredient added to the composition remains retinol ingredient following storage of the composition in its packaging at room temperature and standard relative humidity for 90 days. In some embodiments, 70, 80, 85 or 90% w/w of the one or more alpha hydroxy acid added to the composition remains alpha hydroxy acid following storage of the composition in its packaging at 40 +/- 2 °C at 75% relative humidity for 90 days.

[0038] In some embodiments, the composition is stored in opaque inert packaging, for example, a high-density polyethylene bottle or jar. The amount of retinol ingredient remaining in the composition following storage of the composition in opaque inert packaging at 40 +/- 2 °C at standard relative humidity for 14 days is at least 90% or at least 93% or at least 95% of the original amount. In some embodiments, the amount of retinol ingredient remaining in the composition following storage of the composition in opaque inert packaging at 40 +/- 2 °C at standard relative humidity for 10 weeks is at least 75% or at least 78% or at least 80% or at least 85%, or at least 90% or at least 93%. In some embodiments, the amount of retinol ingredient remaining in the composition following storage of the composition in opaque inert packaging at 40 +/- 2 °C at standard relative humidity for 12 weeks is at least 60%, at least 70%, at least 80%, at least 85%, at least 87% or at least 90%.

[0039] In an embodiment, the retinol ingredient is hydroxypinacolone retinoate and the amount of retinol ingredient remaining in the composition following storage of the composition in opaque inert packaging at 40 +/- 2 °C at standard relative humidity for 12 weeks is at least 80% (optionally at least 90%).

[0040] In an embodiment, if the retinol ingredient is retinyl palmitate the amount of retinol ingredient remaining in the composition following storage of the composition in its packaging at 40 +/- 2 °C at standard relative humidity for 12 weeks is at least 60% (optionally at least 75 % or 78%).

[0041] In some embodiments, the composition is stored in an opaque inert packaging, for example, a high-density polyethylene bottle or jar. Preferably, at least 70% or at least 73% or at least 75% or at least 80% w/w w/w of the one or more retinol ingredient added to the composition remains retinol ingredient following storage of the composition in opaque inert packaging at room temperature and standard relative humidity for 12 months.

[0042] In some embodiments, at least 70% or at least 73% or at least 75% or at least 80% w/w of the one or more alpha hydroxy acid added to the composition remains alpha hydroxy acid following storage of the composition in opaque inert packaging at room temperature and standard relative humidity for 12 months.

[0043] In any embodiment, if the alpha hydroxy acid is glycolic acid, at least 80% of the alpha hydroxyl acid remains alpha hydroxy acid following storage of the composition in opaque inert packaging at room temperature and standard relative humidity for 12 months.

[0044] In any embodiment, if the alpha hydroxy acid is glycolic acid, at least 90 or at least 95% or at least 97%% of the alpha hydroxyl acid remains alpha hydroxy acid following storage of the composition in opaque inert packaging at 40 +/- 2 °C at standard relative humidity for 4 weeks. [0045] In one aspect, the present invention provides a method of exfoliating the skin comprising application of a composition of the invention to the skin. Optionally, the skin is the face, neck, decolletage and/or scalp. Optionally, 0.3 ml of the composition is applied to the face, neck, decolletage and/or scalp. Optionally, the composition is applied once per day. Optionally, the composition has similar irritation levels to the use of the same composition containing no retinol or retinol ingredient. Optionally, the method results in exfoliation of the skin that is 30%, 40% or 50% faster than natural exfoliation of the skin.

[0046] In another aspect, the present invention provides the use of one or more retinol ingredient in the preparation of a composition of the invention for exfoliating skin. Optionally, the skin is the face, neck, decolletage and/or scalp. Optionally, 0.3 ml of the composition is applied to the face, neck, decolletage and/or scalp. Optionally, the composition is applied once per day. Optionally, the composition has similar irritation levels to the use of the same composition containing no retinol or retinol ingredient. Optionally, the method results in exfoliation of the skin that is 30%, 40% or 50% faster than natural exfoliation of the skin.

[0047] In another aspect, the present invention provides the composition of the invention for exfoliating skin. Optionally, the skin is the face, neck, decolletage and/or scalp. Optionally, 0.3 ml of the composition is applied to the face, neck, decolletage and/or scalp. Optionally, the composition is applied once per day. Optionally, the composition has similar irritation levels to the use of the same composition containing no retinol or retinol ingredient. Optionally, the method results in exfoliation of the skin that is 30%, 40% or 50% faster than natural exfoliation of the skin.

[0048] In one aspect, the present invention provides a method of exfoliating the skin and one or more of (i) skin lightening by breaking down of hyperpigmentation, (ii) reducing of pore numbers and/or pore size, (iii) improving the skin's texture, (iv) increasing collagen and/or elastin production in the skin, (v) reducing fine lines and/or wrinkles, (vi) reducing sebum production, (vii) improving acne breakouts and blemishes, (viii) increasing hydration and/or a plumping the skin comprising application of a composition of the invention to the skin. Optionally, the skin is the face, neck, decolletage and/or scalp. Optionally, 0.3 ml of the composition is applied to the face, neck, decolletage and/or scalp. Optionally, the composition is applied once per day. Optionally, the method results in exfoliation of the skin that is 30%, 40% or 50% faster than natural exfoliation of the skin.

[0049] In another aspect, the present invention provides the use of one or more retinol ingredient in the preparation of a composition of the invention for exfoliating the skin and one or more of (i) skin lightening by breaking down of hyperpigmentation, (ii) reducing of pore numbers and/or pore size, (iii) improving the skin's texture, (iv) increasing collagen and/or elastin production in the skin, (v) reducing fine lines and/or wrinkles, (vi) reducing sebum production, (vii) improving acne breakouts and blemishes, (viii) increasing hydration and/or a plumping the skin. Optionally, the skin is the face, neck, decolletage and/or scalp. Optionally, 0.3 ml of the composition is applied to the face, neck, decolletage and/or scalp. Optionally, the composition is applied once per day. Optionally, the composition has similar irritation levels to the use of the same composition containing no retinol or retinol ingredient. Optionally, the method results in exfoliation of the skin that is 30%, 40% or 50% faster than natural exfoliation of the skin.

[0050] In another aspect, the present invention provides the composition of the invention for exfoliating the skin and one or more of (i) skin lightening by breaking down of hyperpigmentation, (ii) reducing of pore numbers and/or pore size, (iii) improving the skin's texture, (iv) increasing collagen and/or elastin production in the skin, (v) reducing fine lines and/or wrinkles, (vi) reducing sebum production, (vii) improving acne breakouts and blemishes, (viii) increasing hydration and/or a plumping the skin. Optionally, the skin is the face, neck, decolletage and/or scalp. Optionally, 0.3 ml of the composition is applied to the face, neck, decolletage and/or scalp. Optionally, the composition is applied once per day. Optionally, the composition has similar irritation levels to the use of the same composition containing no retinol or retinol ingredient. Optionally, the method results in exfoliation of the skin that is 30%, 40% or 50% faster than natural exfoliation of the skin.

[0051] In a further aspect, the present application provides a method of preparing the composition of the invention comprising:

(i) combining the one or more alpha hydroxy acid and at least one aqueous solvent and, if needed, adjusting the pH to 3.8-4.2 using a pH adjuster; (ii) optionally combining the mixture prepared in step (i) with one or more water soluble emollients, one or more skin conditioning agents, one or more humectants, or combinations thereof;

(iii) combining the at least one emulsifying agent, at least one oil phase emollient, and optionally at least one emulsion stabiliser with the mixture prepared in step (ii) and homogenising;

(iv) combining the one or more antioxidants, one or more retinol ingredient, and optionally one or more heat or shear sensitive ingredients such as skin conditioning agents into the mixture prepared in step (iii);

(v) if needed, adjusting the pH to 3.8-4.2 using a pH adjuster.

[0052] Optionally, the mixture is heated to 60-80 °C (preferably about 70 °C) after step (i) and then cooled after step (iii) 45 °C or less (preferably about 40 °C).

[0053] Optionally, the one or more antioxidants include one or more of ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10), ferulic acid, and Tasmannia lanceolata fruit/leaf extract. Optionally, the heat or sheer sensitive skin conditioning agents added in step (iv) are one or more of tocopherol, hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract, and palmitoyl tripepetide-5.

[0054] In some embodiments, one or more of glycerin, butylene glycol, propanediol and sodium hyalonurate are combined with mixture (i) in step (ii). Optionally, following the inclusion of the one or more of glycerin, butylene glycol, propanediol and hyaluronic acid, one or more humectant is added to the mixture. Optionally, the humectant is methyl gluceth-20. The humectant is optionally added with one or more skin conditioner, preferably, ammonium glycyrrhizate.

[0055] Optionally, at least one emulsifying agent and at least one oil phase emollient are combined before mixing with the mixture of step (ii). Preferably, the at least one emulsifying agent and at least one oil phase emollient are heated to 60-80 °C (preferably about 70 °C) before combining with the mixture of step (ii). Optionally, the at least one emulsifying agent is one or more of cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, and PEG- 100 stearate. Optionally, the at least one oil phase emollient is dimethicone and/or dicaprylyl carbonate. [0056] Optionally, the at least one emulsifying agent and at least one oil phase emollient are added to the mixture of step (ii) and homogenised, then the at least one emulsion stabiliser is added to the mixture and the mixture homogenised again.

[0057] Optionally, one or more of emulsion stabiliser is added to the mixture following the addition of the at least one emulsifying agent and at least one oil phase emollient, and homogenisation, at least one emulsion stabiliser is combined with the mixture. Optionally, the at least one emulsion stabiliser is sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate. Optionally, the emulsion stabiliser is combined with the emollients helianthus annuus seed oil, and/or hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract, and/or the skin conditioner hydrolysed jojoba esters before addition to the mixture. Optionally, a preservative is combined with the emulsion stabiliser. Optionally, after the addition of the emulsion stabiliser the mixture is homogenised again.

[0058] Optionally, homogenisation is for 5 minutes.

[0059] Optionally, the one or more retinol ingredient is added to a cooled mixture after any homogenisation step(s). Optionally, the one or more retinol ingredient is the final ingredient added to the composition before the final pH adjustment.

[0060] Further aspects of the present invention and further embodiments of the aspects described in the preceding paragraphs will become apparent from the following description, given by way of example and with reference to the accompanying drawings.

Brief description of the drawings

[0061] Figure 1 - Change in reflectance of skin measured after subsequent treatments Skin with Alpha-H Liquid Gold Midnight Reboot Serum

[0062] Figure 2 - Total colour change in sunless-tanned skin following 4 treatments with Alpha-H Liquid Gold Midnight Reboot Serum

[0063] Figure 3 - Number of days of product use required to achieve 50% exfoliation with or without Alpha-H Midnight Liquid Gold Serum Detailed description of the embodiments

[0064] It will be understood that various terms employed in the specification, examples and claims have meanings that will be understood by one of ordinary skill in the art. However, certain terms are defined below.

[0065] As used herein, except where the context requires otherwise, the term "comprise" and variations of the term, such as "comprising", "comprises" and "comprised", are not intended to exclude further additives, components, integers or steps.

[0066] As used herein, the term “room temperature” refers to about 20 °C.

[0067] As used herein, the term “standard humidity” refers to 30 to 50% relative humidity. Optionally, 40% relative humidity.

Retinol

[0068] Low concentrations of retinol (0.01 %-0.03%) are great for those new to using retinol who want to introduce the ingredient into their daily routines or anyone with ultrasensitive, reactive skin. Research has shown that concentrations in this range are effective for delaying signs of ageing, minimising pore size, and improving skin’s healthy appearance. Moderate strengths of retinol (0.04%-0.2%) are ideal for those looking to improve stubborn concerns such as uneven skin tone and fine lines. High strengths of retinol (0.3%-1%) are the most potent formulas for more dramatic results. This is the top tier for advanced concerns such as deep wrinkles and decreased firmness.

[0069] Vitamin A (retinoic acid) is the first vitamin approved by the Food and Drug Administration as an anti-wrinkle agent that changes appearance of the skin surface and has anti-aging effects. Vitamin A is in a group of fat-soluble substances and belongs to the category of retinoids. Retinoic acid is the only registered therapeutic agent. The other retinoids are used in cosmetic applications. Apart from retinol, that group includes structurally related substances with the biological properties of retinol.

[0070] Vitamin A and its derivatives are among the most effective substances slowing the appearance of the aging process. Retinoids regulate the cell apoptosis, differentiation and proliferation. Anti-wrinkle properties of retinoids promote keratinocytes proliferation, strengthen the protective function of the epidermis, restrain transepidermal water loss, protect collagen against degradation and inhibit metalloproteinases activity.

[0071] Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is the newest the retinoid. HPR is a retinoic acid ester. HPR binds directly to retinoid receptors like retinoic acid. This makes its use more straight forward that the use of retinol and retinyl palmitate, which have to convert to retinoic acid in the skin to be effective. HPR is the preferred retinoid of this invention. It has the following chemical structure:

[0072] Other important retinols or derivatives thereof include retinol (1), retinyl acetate (12), retinyl proprionate (3), retinyl linoleate (4) and retinyl palmitate (5). The structures are shown below.

[0073]

[0074] The benefits of retinoids include (1) skin lightening by breaking down of hyperpigmentation, (2) Reduction of pore numbers and pore size, (3) Improving the skin's texture, (4) Providing a youthful glow, (5) Increased collagen and elastin production, (6) A reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, (7) Acting as an antioxidant, (8) Reducing sebum production, (9) Improving acne breakouts and blemishes, (10) Increasing hydration and a plumping effect of the skin.

[0075] Granactive Retinoid is supplied by Grant Industries. The INCI (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient) name for the product is dimethyl isosorbide (and) hydroxypinacolone retinoate. The product is an anhydrous matrix containing 10% pinacolyl ester of all-trans retinoic acid in the solvent dimethyl isosorbide. Dimethyl isosorbide is a solvent that assists with delivery of the retinoid into the skin. The product is for decreasing the effects of UV induced skin damage and assisting clearing of acne related symptoms. The ingredient is for addition to the oil phase of emulsions. It is recommended to formulate without infusing air/oxygen into the product. Like all retinoids, the highly specific set of conjugated double bonds are susceptible to oxidation. Anti-oxidants like vitamin E and BHT/BHA are suggested to minimise oxidation. The product has a specific gravity of 1.1-1.2 at 25 °C and a refractive index of 1.45-1.52 at 25 °C.

AHAs

[0076] Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are class of chemical exfoliants commonly used in skin care products. The common AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid. There are seven types of AHAs commonly used in products available throughout the skincare industry. These include:

- citric acid (from citrus fruits)

- glycolic acid (from sugar cane)

- hydroxycaproic acid (from royal jelly)

- hydroxycaprylic acid (from animals)

- lactic acid (from lactose or other carbohydrates) - malic acid (from fruits)

- tartaric acid (from grapes)

[0077] AHA-containing products cause exfoliation, or shedding of the surface skin. Exfoliation refers to a process where the skin cells on the surface shed off. This helps remove dead skin cells but also makes way for new skin cell generation. As you age, your natural skin cell cycle slows down, which can make dead skin cells build up. When you have too many dead skin cells, they can accumulate and make your complexion look dull. The extent of exfoliation depends on the type and concentration of the AHA, its pH, and other ingredients in the product. The exfoliation occurs chemically by the dissolution of bonds between skin cells as opposed to manually by scrubbing the skin.

[0078] AHA products are usually between 10 and 15% w/w AHA. AHA products are usually applied every few days, then alternate days and then everyday as the skin builds tolerance. Some AHA products are designed for once a week use.

[0079] AHAs are primarily used to exfoliate. They can also help promote collagen and blood flow, correct discoloration from scars and age spots, improve appearance of surface lines and wrinkles, prevent acne breakouts, brighten your complexion, and increase product absorption.

[0080] It will be understood that the invention disclosed and defined in this specification extends to all alternative combinations of two or more of the individual features mentioned or evident from the text or drawings. All of these different combinations constitute various alternative aspects of the invention.

Examples

[0081] Example 1 - Composition 1

[0082] Table 1 below shows the formulation of composition 1.

The composition with the above formulation has a pH of 3.8-4.2.

The formulation can be alternatively described in table 2 below.

Method of formulation:

The formulation in the table below was made using the method of Table 3 below.

Step 1. The Part A ingredients were added and the pH of the solution adjusted to 3.8- 4.2

Step 2. The solution was heated to 70°C

Step 3. The Part B ingredients were combined, and then added to Part A while stirring.

Step 4. The Part C ingredients were added with stirring.

Step 5. The Part D ingredients were combined in a separate vessel and heated to 70°C

Step 6. The Part D mixture was added to the vessel containing the combined part A B and C ingredients while stirring.

Step 7. The mixture was homogenised for 5 minutes.

Step 8. The Part E ingredients were added, and homogenised for 5 minutes.

Step 9. The mixture is cooled to 40°C while stirring.

Step 10. The Part F ingredients were added while stirring, and the mixture cooled until the desired consistency is reached.

Step 11. The part G ingredients were added

Step 12. Final pH was adjusted as necessary to pH = 3.8 - 4.2 with citric acid or potassium hydroxide.

Microbiological testing:

The product meets the CTFA microbiology guidelines. Total viable counts (TVC) of bacteria, yeast and mould were < 10 cfu (colony forming units) and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, Candiida albicans and pseudomonas spp were non-detectable in 0.1g. [0084] Example 2 - Physical stability results

The composition 1 was stored in final packaging (50mL in an opaque high density polyethylene bottle with a polypropylene cap) at 40 +/- 2°C, at 75% relative humidity for 90 days.

After 90 days the composition was tested to evaluate stability by an independent third- party laboratory BioTest. There was no change in appearance, pH or specific gravity measured after 90 days shelf life test.

The physical testing and visual inspection of the product after 90 days are shown in Table 4 below.

LGMRS did not change in appearance over 12 month’s storage at room temperature. There was no separation or colour change.

[0085] Example 3 - Active stability results

Glycolic acid Stability

The concentration of glycolic acid was measured as glycolate ions in two different samples of Composition 1 using ion chromatography (IC) analysis by third-party lab. Each batch was sealed in opaque high density polyethylene following manufacture and stored until testing on 15 October 2020.

The samples were diluted by a ratio of approximately 1 :1000 with ultra-pure deionized water and shaken on an orbital platform shaker for 10 minutes at 350 RPM. The sample solutions were prepared once and analyzed in duplicate injections using suppressed conductivity detection on a Metrohm ion chromatography system. Peak identification was based on the retention time of the glycolate in the standards. A seven point linear calibration curve ranging from 0.05 to 50 ppm glycolate was used for quantitation. The samples needed to be run with an inline dilution factor of 5 in order to bring the measurements within this range. The total dilution factor of 5000 was applied to the concentration measured in the sample solutions.

The IC results are shown in Table 5.

As 14% of the formulation is glycolic acid, these results indicate an 80% to 86% retention of the glycolic acid in the formulation and the maintenance of effective glycolic acid levels even after 90 days storage at room temperature and standard humidity away from direct sunlight.

The glycolic acid concentration in a further sample of Composition 1 was tested 2 months and about 12 months post manufacture as shown in the Table 6 below. Each batch was sealed in opaque amber high density polyethylene bottles at manufacture and stored at room temperature and standard humidity until testing.

The formulation did not change in appearance over the 12 months. There was no change in colour or separation of the emulsion.

The slight increase in glycolic acid is considered negligible and recorded as no decrease.

Retinol Stability

The Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) concentration in Composition 1 was tested in three different batches using HPLC. Each batch was sealed in opaque high density polyethylene following manufacture and stored until testing on 20 October 2020. The percentages of HPR are shown below in Table 7 below.

As the formulation contains 0.1000% HPR, these results show the retention of more than 90% (about 95%) of the HPR in the formulation even after 3 months of storage and 99-100% for about 1 month of storage at room temperature and standard humidity and out of direct sunlight.

The HPR concentration in a further sample of Composition 1 was tested 2 months and 12 months post manufacture as shown in the Table 8 below. Each batch was sealed in opaque amber high density polyethylene bottles at room temperature following manufacture and stored until testing.

The assay results show a slight decrease in HPR over the time (0.095% to 0.073% - approximately 80% of original amount (ie 77% or at least 75%). The reduction in HPR is acceptable due to the nature of this raw material and the pH of the final product. The stability of HPR claimed by Grant Industries, based on accelerated stability studies, is approximately 80% in the absence of glycolic acid.

[0086] Example 4 - Normal and Reasonable Foreseeable Use

Composition 1 is intended for application of 3-6 drops (approximately 0.3 ml) per application to the face, neck, and decolletage by gently spreading across the surface with fingers. It may also be applied to hair. The product is a leave-on product. It is intended to be used once per day.

[0087] Example 5 - Survey results

Experimental protocol: A third party contractor was engaged to conduct a split-face study to evaluate the efficacy of a composition 1 with to improve signs of skin aging when used alone or in conjunction with a glycolic acid solution (Liquid Gold formulation; commercially available from ALPHA-H).

[0088] 24 subjects were surveyed regarding the products’ tolerability after six weeks of application of retinoid serum to both halves of their face and the glycolic acid serum only to one half of their face.

SERUM ONLY SIDE

1. Improvement in skin hydration: 79% of participants noticed a slight to very marked improvement

2. Improvement in skin tone and luminosity: 83% of participants noticed a slight to very marked improvement

3. Improvement in skin softness: 83% of participants noticed a slight to very marked improvement

4. Improvement in skin texture: 83% of participants noticed a slight to very marked improvement

5. Improvement in pore size: 57% of the 23 participants who answered this question noticed a slight to very marked improvement

6. Improvement in fine lines and wrinkles: 61% of the 23 participants who answered this question noticed a slight to very marked improvement

7. Improvement in skin hyperpigmentation: 58% of the 24 participants who answered this question noticed a slight to very marked improvement

8. Improvement in skin elasticity and firmness: 63% of participants noticed a slight to very marked improvement

9. Have you noticed any lifting effect: 42% of participants noticed a slightly to very markedly improvement

10. In your opinion does your skin look younger: 67% of participants noticed a slightly to very markedly improvement 11. Overall has your skin improved: 83% of participants noticed a slightly to very markedly overall improvement

12. Have you experienced any adverse effect: 71% of the participants did not experience any adverse effect while 29% of the participants experienced adverse effects

13. Degree of adverse effects: Out of the 29% of the participants who experienced adverse effects 43% had minor adverse effects while 57% had moderate adverse effects

14. How would you rate the overall tolerability of the serum: 96% of the participants rated the overall tolerability average to excellent

SERUM / GLYCOLIC ACID SIDE

1. Improvement in skin hydration: 75% of participants noticed a slight to very marked improvement

2. Improvement in skin tone and luminosity: 79% of participants noticed a slight to very marked improvement

3. Improvement in skin softness: 67% of participants noticed a slight to very marked improvement

4. Improvement in skin texture: 79% of participants noticed a slight to very marked improvement

6. Improvement in fine lines and wrinkles: 48% of the 23 participants who answered this question noticed a slight to very marked improvement

7. Improvement in skin hyperpigmentation: 63% of the participants noticed a slight to very marked improvement

8. Improvement in skin elasticity and firmness: 58% of participants noticed a slight to very marked improvement 9. Have you noticed any lifting effect: 38% of participants noticed a slightly to very markedly improvement

10. In your opinion does your skin look younger: 63% of participants noticed a slightly to very markedly improvement

11 . Overall has your skin improved: 83% of participants noticed a slightly to very markedly improvement

12. Have you experienced any adverse effect: 63% of the participants did not experience any adverse effect while 33% of the participants experienced adverse effects

13. Degree of adverse effects: Out of the 33% of the participants who experienced adverse effects 75% had minor adverse effects, 13% had moderate adverse effects while 13% had substantial adverse effects

14. How would you rate the overall tolerability of the glycolic acid serum: 92% of the participants rated the overall tolerability average to excellent

These results indicate that the use of composition 1 is not more irritating that the use of glycolic acid alone.

[0089] Example 6. Exfoliation study

[0090] Experimental protocol:

1. N=10 female Caucasian subjects with even toned skin of the upper arms

2. Two areas of 2X2 inch marked (one for product treatment and the other as the untreated control).

3. Sunless tanning spray applied on both sites to stain the outermost layers of the stratum corneum; as the skin exfoliates the color recedes

4. After 24 hours the tan was measured using a Chromameter that measures skin darkness (reflectance)

5. The Composition 1 was applied on the treated site and rubbed in. The untreated site was wiped without product. 6. After 48 and 72 hours color was measured again followed by treatment with the product

7. On the 4^th day color was measured for the last time.

The results are shown in Figures 1 to 3.

[0091] Results from this study showed that Composition 1 enhanced exfoliation of skin 40% times faster in the same period than that of natural skin cell turnover.

[0092] Example 7 - Composition 2

[0093] Table 9 below shows the formulation of composition 2.

The composition with the above formulation has a pH of 4.0.

The formulation can be alternatively described in Table 10 below.

Method of formulation:

The formulation in the Table 11 below was made using the following method

Step 2. The solution was heated to 70°C

Step 3. The Part B ingredients were combined in a separate vessel and heated to 70°C

Step 4. The Part B mixture was added to the vessel containing the combined part A ingredients while stirring.

Step 5. The mixture was homogenised for 5 minutes.

Step 6. The Part C ingredients were added, and homogenised for 5 minutes.

Step 7. The mixture is cooled to 40°C while stirring.

Step 8. The Part D ingredients were added while stirring, and the mixture cooled until the desired consistency is reached.

Step 9. Final pH was adjusted as necessary to pH = 3.8 - 4.2 with citric acid or potassium hydroxide. Retinol Stability

The Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) concentration in composition 2 was tested using HPLC. The manufactured batch (LGMS (BARE)) of composition 2 was sealed in opaque high density polyethylene following manufacture and one sample was tested after 13 days storage and a second sample was tested after stored at 40°C and at standard relative humidity for 1 month. The sample was 1 month old at the time of testing.

The percentages of HPR are shown below in Table 12 below.

This accelerated testing indicates that HPR and the formulation is stable in composition 2.

Glycolic acid Stability

The concentration of glycolic acid was measured by measuring the concentration of glycolate ions using the assay procedure as described in example 3.

The percentages of glycolic acid are shown below in Table 13 below.

Active stability results

One sample of Composition 2 was tested after 13 days storage at room temperature and standard relative humidity and a second sample of Composition 2 was tested after being stored at room temperature and standard humidity for approximately 1 month and then stored at 40°C and standard relative humidity for 1 month. Composition 2 did not change in appearance over the 1 month when stored. There was no separation or colour change. The assay results show a slight decrease in HPR over the time (0.086% to 0.083% - approximately 97% of original amount). Glycolic acid assays have shown that the amount of glycolate (as glycolic acid) reduces very slightly over time (97% of original after 1 month at 40°C. and standard relative humidity)

The reduction in both HPR and glycolic acid, as measured in composition 2, is deemed to be acceptable due to the nature of these raw material and the pH of the final product.

[0094] Example 8 - Composition 2

Comparison of HPR and Retinyl Palmitate stability

Test formula 1 (HPR/retinyl palmitate) and test formula 2 (HPR/retinyl palmitate) were prepared. Test formula 1 is the same as Composition 1 optionally with the HPR substituted for retinyl palmitate. Test formula 2 is the same as Composition 2, optionally with the HPR substituted for retinyl palmitate. Both were prepared in accordance with the method of Example 1.

The samples were aged using accelerated aging (storage at 40°C, standard relative humidity) for 12 weeks. The amount of retinol ingredient remaining in the composition was measured using HPLC after 2, 4, 10 and 12 weeks. The results are shown in figures 4 and 5.

After 12 weeks of storage at 40°C, more than 80% of HPR remained in the formulation (90% in test formula 1 and 82% in test formula 2). In comparison after 12 weeks of storage at 40°C more than 60% of retinyl palmitate remained in the formulation (78% in test formula 1 and 62% in test formula 2).

Test formulas made with HPR but without glycolic acid also showed a stability after 12 weeks accelerated aging of around 80%.

Claims

1. A composition including 0.01-0.2% w/w one or more retinol ingredient, 5-20% w/w one or more alpha hydroxy acid, at least one emollient, at least one aqueous solvent, at least one emulsifying agent, at least one antioxidant, optionally at least one emulsion stabiliser, and optionally at least one skin conditioning agent, wherein the composition has a pH of 3.5 to 4.5.

2. The composition of claim 1 , wherein the pH is 3.9 to 4.1 , preferably the pH is about 4.

3. The composition of claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the one or more retinol ingredient is hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol, retinyl acetate, retinyl linoleate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl proprionate, or combinations thereof.

4. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more retinol ingredient is hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol, or combinations thereof.

5. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more retinol ingredient is hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, retinol, or combinations thereof.

6. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the alpha hydroxy acid is glycolic acid.

7. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more retinol ingredient is 0.07-0.15% w/w of the composition, preferably is about 0.1% w/w of the composition.

8. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is 12-16% w/w of one or more alpha hydroxy acid, preferably the composition is about 14% w/w of one or more alpha hydroxy acid

9. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one emollient is 8-15% w/w of the composition and optionally selected from the group consisting of glycerin, dimethocone, dicaprylyl carbonate, helianthus annuus seed oil, hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract and combinations thereof. Optionally, at least one emollient comprises all of the group consisting of glycerin, dimethocone, dicaprylyl carbonate, helianthus annuus seed oil, and hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract.

10. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous solvent is water and the water is 40-70% w/w of the composition, preferably the composition is about 55% w/w water.

11. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one emulsifying agent is 1.0-2.5% w/w of the composition, preferably about 2% w/w of the composition.

12. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one emulsifying agent is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, and combinations thereof.

13. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one antioxidant is optionally 0.5-2.0% w/w of the composition, preferably about 0.6% w/w.

14. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one antioxidant is selected from the group consisting of ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10), ferulic acid, Tasmannia lanceolata fruit/leaf extract, and combinations thereof.

15. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one emulsion stabiliser is 0.5-1 .5% w/w of the composition, preferably about 1 % w/w of the composition.

16. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one emulsion stabiliser is sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate.

17. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one skin conditioning agent is about 12-17% w/w of the composition.

18. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one skin conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of palmitoyl tripepetide-5, hydrolysed jojoba esters, tocopherol, hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract, ammonium glycyrrhizate, sodium hyaluronate, butylene glycol, propanediol and combinations thereof.

19. A composition including:

- 0.05-0.2% w/w (preferably 0.1 % w/w) one or more retinol ingredient; or 0.5-2.0% w/w (preferably 1.0% w/w) of a retinol composition comprising 10% one or more retinol ingredient in 90% dimethyl isosorbide,

- 10-20% w/w (preferably 14% w/w) one or more alpha hydroxy acid,

- 0.001-0.003% w/w (preferably 0.002%) palmitoyl tripepetide-5,

- 8-15% w/w (preferably 10-11 % w/w) of at least one emollient,

- 1.0-2.5% (preferably 2%) of at least one emulsifying agent,

- 0.5-1.5% w/w of at least one emulsion stabiliser

- at least one aqueous solvent; and

20. The composition of claim 19, wherein the at least one antioxidant includes:

- 0.005-0.15% w/w (preferable 0.1% w.w) ubiquinone, and

- 0.3-0.7% w/w (preferably 0.5% w/w) ferulic acid.

21. The composition of claim 19 or claim 20, wherein the at least one emollient is selected from glycerin, dimethocone, dicaprylyl carbonate, helianthus annuus seed oil, hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract, and combinations thereof.

22. The composition of any one of claims 19-21 , wherein the at least one emulsifying agent selected from cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, and combinations thereof.

23. The composition of any one of claims 19-22, wherein the at least one emulsion stabiliser selected from sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate.

24. The composition of any one of claims 19-23, wherein the at least one aqueous solvent is 50-60% w/w of the composition (preferably about 55% w/w).

25. The composition of any one of claims 19-23, wherein the at least one skin conditioning agent selected from palmitoyl tripepetide-5, hydrolysed jojoba esters, tocopherol, hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract, ammonium glycyrrhizate, sodium hyaluronate, butylene glycol, propanediol and combinations thereof.

26. The composition of any one of claims 19-23, wherein the at least one skin conditioning agent is 5-20% w/w (preferably 12-17% w/w of the composition).

27. The composition of any one of claims 19-23, wherein 90, 95, 98, 99 or 99.5% w/w of the one or more retinol ingredient added to the composition remains retinol ingredient following preparation of the composition.

28. The composition of any one of claims 19-23, wherein 70, 80, 85 or 90% w/w of the one or more alpha hydroxy acid added to the composition remains alpha hydroxy acid following preparation of the composition.

29. The composition of any one of claims 19-23, wherein the composition is stored in an opaque inert packaging and 70, 80, 85, 90, 95, or 98% w/w of the one or more retinol ingredient added to the composition remains retinol ingredient following storage of the composition in its packaging at room temperature and relative humidity for 90 days.

30. The composition of any one of claims 19-23, wherein the composition is stored in an opaque inert packaging and 70, 80, 85 or 90% w/w of the one or more alpha hydroxy acid added to the composition remains alpha hydroxy acid following storage of the composition in its packaging at 40 +/- 2 °C at 75% relative humidity for 90 days. 39

31. The composition of any one of claims 19-23, wherein the composition is stored in an opaque inert packaging and at least 70% w/w (preferably at least 75% w/w) of the one or more retinol ingredient added to the composition remains retinol ingredient following storage of the composition in its packaging at room temperature and standard relative humidity for 12 months.

32. The composition of any one of claims 19-23, wherein the composition is stored in an opaque inert packaging and at least 70% w/w (preferably at least 80% w/w) of the one or more alpha hydroxy acid added to the composition remains alpha hydroxy acid following storage of the composition in opaque inert packaging at room temperature and standard relative humidity for 12 months.

33. A method of exfoliating the skin comprising application of a composition according to any one of claims 1-32 to the skin.

34. A method of exfoliating the skin and one or more of (i) skin lightening by breaking down of hyperpigmentation, (ii) reducing of pore numbers and/or pore size, (iii) improving the skin's texture, (iv) increasing collagen and/or elastin production in the skin, (v) reducing fine lines and/or wrinkles, (vi) reducing sebum production, (vii) improving acne breakouts and blemishes, (viii) increasing hydration and/or a plumping the skin comprising application of a composition according to any one of claims 1-30 to the skin.

35. The method of claim 33 or claim 34, wherein 0.3 ml of the composition is applied to the face, neck, decolletage and/or scalp.

36. The method of any one of claim 33-35, wherein the composition is applied once per day.

37. The method of any one of claim 33-36, wherein the composition has similar irritation levels to the use of the same composition containing no retinol.

38. The method of any one of claim 33-37, wherein the method results in exfoliation of the skin that is 30%, 40% or 50% faster than natural exfoliation of the skin.

39. A method of preparing the composition according to any one of claims 1-32 comprising: 40

(i) combining the one or more alpha hydroxy acid and the at least one aqueous solvent and, if needed, adjusting the pH to 3.8-4.2 using a pH adjuster;

(ii) optionally combining the mixture prepared in step (i) with one or more water soluble emollients, one or more skin conditioning agents, one or more humectants, or combinations thereof;

(v) if needed, adjusting the pH to 3.8-4.2 using a pH adjuster.

40. The method of claim 39, wherein the mixture is heated to 60-80 °C (preferably about 70 °C) after step (i) and then cooled after step (iii) 45 °C or less (preferably about 40 °C).

41. The method of claim 39 or claim 40, wherein the heat or sheer sensitive skin conditioning agents added in step (iv) are one or more of tocopherol, hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract, and palmitoyl tripepetide-5.

42. The method of any one of claims 39-41 , wherein one or more of glycerin, butylene glycol, propanediol and sodium hyalonurate are combined with mixture (i) in step (ii).

43. The method of claim 41 , wherein following the inclusion of the one or more of glycerin, butylene glycol, propanediol and hyaluronic acid, one or more humectant is added to the mixture.

44. The method of claim 43, wherein the humectant is methyl gluceth-20.

45. The method of claim 43 or claim 44, wherein humectant is added with one or more skin conditioner, preferably, ammonium glycyrrhizate. 41

46. The method of any one of claims 39-45, wherein the at least one emulsifying agent and at least one oil phase emollient are combined before mixing with mixture of step (ii).

47. The method of claim 46, wherein the at least one emulsifying agent and at least one oil phase emollient are heated to 60-80 °C (preferably about 70 °C) before combining with the mixture of step (ii).

48. The method of any one of claims 39-47, wherein the at least one oil phase emollient is dimethicone and/or dicaprylyl carbonate.

49. The method of any one of claims 39-48, wherein the at least one emulsifying agent and at least one oil phase emollient is added to the mixture of step (ii) and homogenised, then the emulsion stabiliser is added to the mixture and the mixture homogenised again.

50. The method of claims 49, wherein the emulsion stabiliser is combined to the mixture with the emollients helianthus annuus seed oil, and/or hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract, and/or the skin conditioner hydrolysed jojoba esters.

51. The method of any one of claims 39-50, wherein homogenisation is for 5 minutes.

52. The method of any one of claims 39-50, wherein the one or more retinol ingredient is the final ingredient added to the composition before the final pH adjustment.