WO2023005780A1

WO2023005780A1 - Process method for knitting fully-formed product by needle separation technology

Info

Publication number: WO2023005780A1
Application number: PCT/CN2022/106936
Authority: WO
Inventors: 王新泉; 董瑞兰; 丁慧; 乔建成; 郭建丽
Original assignee: 内蒙古鹿王羊绒有限公司
Priority date: 2021-07-26
Filing date: 2022-07-21
Publication date: 2023-02-02
Also published as: ZA202213537B; CN113584697A

Abstract

A process method for knitting a fully-formed product by needle separation technology. The process method comprises: knitting a cylindrical air layer as a substrate texture structure by means of a needle separation method, separately knitting a left sleeve area, a right sleeve area and a bodice area according to different yarn guides, combining and forming the left sleeve area, the right sleeve area and the bodice area above a hanging shoulder by means of a needle reduction process, and stopping a needle and stopping processing to knit a front collar; and finishing the knitting of the fully-formed product. A double-needle-plate computerized flat knitting machine is adopted, the multi-needle-pitch needle separation technology is used, and knitting of fully-formed seamless products can be achieved.

Description

The Technology of Weaving Fully Formed Products by Spacer Technique

This application is based on a Chinese patent application with application number 202110843057.8 and a filing date of July 26, 2021, and claims the priority of this Chinese patent application. The entire content of this Chinese patent application is hereby incorporated by reference into this application.

technical field

The invention belongs to the technical field of textiles, and in particular relates to a process method for weaving fully formed products by needle-spacer technology.

Background technique

The textile industry itself is a labor-intensive industry. As my country's population aging problem becomes more and more serious, fewer and fewer young people are engaged in the textile industry. The textile industry is facing problems such as difficulty in recruitment and production that have always plagued enterprise managers.

If the textile industry wants to reduce costs, it must innovate, seek benefits from management, seek benefits from technology, and seek benefits from technology. At present, "WHOLEGARMENT" is a high-frequency vocabulary in the knitting industry, also known as "seamless" or "one-line ready-to-wear" products, and is often described as "a yarn goes in and a garment comes out". Fully formed products are widely concerned by people in the industry because of their seamless, non-fitting, multi-process saving, high weaving efficiency, reduced production time, and low production cost.

The fully-formed products in the market use the four-needle board or five-needle board computerized flat knitting machine and its design software as the main knitting equipment. 4 to 5 times the price, most manufacturers still use double-needle board ordinary computerized flat knitting machines as their main production equipment.

The invention discloses a process method for knitting fully formed seamless products on a double-needle board computerized flat knitting machine by needle-spacer technology.

Contents of the invention

The purpose of the present invention is to provide a process method for knitting fully formed products with needle spacing technology, which can realize the weaving of fully formed seamless products by using a double-needle board computerized flat knitting machine and using multi-gauge needle spacing technology.

For achieving the above object, the technical solution used in the present invention is:

Spacer needle technology is a process method for fully formed products. The cylindrical air layer is knitted by needle spacers as the base structure, and the left sleeve, right sleeve and body area are respectively knitted according to different yarn guides. The left and right sleeves are combined with the body, and the front collar is knit with deep needle stop to complete the knitting of the fully formed product.

Further, the computerized flat knitting machine has a pair of needle plates facing each other front and back, and at least one needle plate of the front needle plate or the rear needle plate is staggered to the left or right to perform cross-transposition between the coils; the flat knitting machine includes five guides. There are two yarn guides with waste yarn, and the other three yarn guides with main yarn for knitting; the computerized flat knitting machine has three system functions.

Further, by enlarging the bending distance of the hook of the knitting needle, the number of hooked or held yarns is increased.

Further, needle-spaced cylindrical knitting is used as the base tissue structure, which specifically includes: using 1 empty and 1 needle-out needle, circularly knitting the front and rear plate coils, and weaving a cylindrical air layer base tissue coil structure; the front plate and the rear plate knitting needles are The needles are ejected at the wrong positions, that is, when the needles are ejected from the front board, the needles are not ejected from the rear board, or when the needles are ejected from the rear board, the needles are not ejected from the front board, forming the base tissue structure.

Further, when knitting with 1 empty and 1 spaced needle to form a loop, use the empty needles on the opposite needle plate to perform stitch transfer and shifting actions to realize twisting, mesh hollowing or needle reduction actions, so as to complete the organizational structure and process shaping.

Further, by using the empty needle position to reduce the stitches of the front panel and the back panel of the hanging shoulder part respectively, the sleeve mountain of the left sleeve and the right sleeve and the curve of the hanging shoulder position are realized, and the knitting of the combined sleeve body structure is completed.

Further, the loops of the rear panel are woven normally, the loops of the collar of the front panel are woven with the needle stopped, and the deep loops of the front collar are gradually stopped from the middle to both sides, and the deep loops of the front collar are correspondingly reduced to meet the requirement of the collar depth.

Technical effect of the present invention comprises:

In the present invention, a large-needle crochet needle is installed on a flat knitting machine with a medium-fine gauge, which can hold multiple yarns at the same time;

The present invention can also realize the weaving of fully formed products by adopting the traditional double-needle board ordinary computerized flat knitting machine without using special fully formed knitting equipment. The woven fabric conforms to human body wear, does not need to be stitched, is formed at one time, has high production efficiency and low cost, and can realize conventional tissue structures such as weaving with cables.

Description of drawings

Figure 1a is a schematic diagram of the use of 12 needles/Inch computerized flat knitting needles in the prior art;

Fig. 1b is a schematic diagram of the use of multi-gauge knitting needles of a 12-needle computerized flat knitting machine in the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a schematic diagram of the structure of the needle coil in the middle of the present invention;

Fig. 3 is the rendering of the raglan style in the present invention;

Fig. 4 is a schematic diagram of the partial structure of the Raglan style in the present invention;

Fig. 5 is the weaving traveling locus figure among the present invention;

Fig. 6a is a plan view of the needle knitting loop of the present invention;

Fig. 6b is a schematic diagram of the needle knitting loop of the present invention;

Fig. 7 is a schematic diagram of twisted flower structure in the present invention;

Fig. 8 is a structural diagram of the combined coil of the sleeve body in the present invention;

Fig. 9 is a schematic diagram of shoulder hanging and needle reduction continuous with the sleeve body merging coil structure diagram in the present invention;

Fig. 10 is a structure diagram of the front collar deep rest knitting loop in the present invention.

Detailed ways

The following description illustrates specific embodiments of the invention sufficiently to enable those skilled in the art to practice and reproduce it.

When using a flat knitting machine to knit products, the computerized flat knitting machine used has a pair of needle plates facing each other front and back. At least one needle plate on the front needle plate or the rear needle plate can be staggered to the left or right to cross the stitches. Transposition; the flat knitting machine has five yarn guides, two of which have waste yarns, and the other three have main yarns for knitting; the flat knitting machine has three system functions, which can reduce the idle running of the machine head and improve Weaving efficiency.

In this preferred embodiment, the parameter design is as follows:

Raw material parameters: use 100% pure cashmere yarn with a length of 28-33mm, a fineness of about 15.5μm, and a short cashmere rate of less than 16%; the yarn count is 38.5tex*2 (metric count 26s/2*2).

Design density: The horizontal density of the finished product is 32 needles/10cm, and the vertical density of the finished product is 26 rows/10cm.

Flat knitting machine parameters:

The knitting principle or knitting form of the computerized flat knitting machine generally includes six needle exit heights: knitting, tucking, float, transfer, stitching and stripping.

1. Knitting (knitting): 3/4 of the needle-out height forms a new coil to form a loop;

2. Tuck (tuck): 2/4 of the needle output height forms a tuck;

3. Floating thread (non-knitting): the needle exit height is 0, the needle does not come out, the yarn with yarn does not participate in the knitting action, and the floating thread is pulled;

4. Transfer: 4/4 of the needle exit height forms a transfer;

5. Needle connection: 1/4 of the needle exit height to pick up the coil on the transfer needle;

6. Knitting off (no knitting): 3/4 of the needle-out height, start the needle, no yarn without knitting, the latch is closed, and the loop falls off the knitting needle.

Combining the above 6 kinds of knitting forms with multi-gauge spacer knitting technology, and then using the empty needle position of the relative needle board to perform stitch transfer and shifting actions, the knitting process of thick-needle full-formed products can be realized .

The multi-gauge computerized flat knitting machine has major changes in knitting needles, and 7 large hook knitting needles are installed on the 12-needle computerized flat knitting machine.

As shown in Fig. 1a, it is a schematic diagram of the use of 12 needles/Inch computerized flat knitting needles in the prior art.

The width distance of the bent position of the hook of the knitting needle is about 1 mm (a position width = 1 mm).

As shown in Figure 1b, it is a schematic diagram of the use of multi-gauge knitting needles of a 12-needle computerized flat knitting machine in the present invention.

For a 12-needle computerized flat knitting machine multi-gauge knitting needle, the width of the hook bending position of the knitting needle is 2mm (a position width=2mm).

It shows that the smaller the hook width distance, the less yarn the knitting needle holds, and the finer the knitting product; the larger the hook width distance, the more yarn the knitting needle holds, and the rougher the knitting product. Therefore, the size of the hook width and distance is the key factor in determining the thickness and style of the product.

In addition, the shuttle eye b of the yarn guide is the channel through which the yarn passes, and the eye distance affects the smooth progress of yarn feeding.

As shown in FIG. 2 , it is a schematic diagram of the structure of the intermediate needle coil of the present invention.

According to the change of knitting needles, products with different needle distance effects can be knitted on a computerized flat knitting machine with a specific machine size.

Use the knitting form of 1 empty and 1 stitch to form a loop, when the odd number 1 row knits into a loop, the even number 2 rows do not knit and pull the floating thread, or the odd number 1 row does not knit and pull the floating thread, and the even number 2 rows knit into a loop; The weft plain stitch structure with the effect of 7 thick needles is knitted, which is the linkage of the loop-forming structure and the floating thread structure.

Knitting into circles by using the technology of multi-gauge needle spacing, there are empty needle positions, and the empty knitting needle positions do not participate in knitting, and no loops will be formed on the empty needles, and the mutual transfer and transfer actions between the target loops are performed with the help of empty needles. It is relatively simple to complete the twisted weave design and the realization of the needle reduction action.

As shown in Figure 3, it is an effect diagram of the raglan style in the present invention.

This is a basic style with cable on the front, no seams on the side seams of the body and sleeves, and a self-starting pattern on the hem and cuffs; The upper part is knitted normally, and the front neck part is knitted with stop stitches, forming a self-leading collar with a deep front collar.

As shown in Fig. 4, it is a schematic diagram of the partial structure of the raglan style in the present invention.

It can be seen from Fig. 4 that the ready-made garment is mainly composed of upper and lower parts AB, part A of the body from the bottom edge to the armpit, and part B of the shoulder and collar from the armpit to the top of the collar.

In order to be continuous with the half-sleeve position, when starting the bottom, weave with No. 1 waste yarn guide on the left, knit with No. 2 waste yarn guide on the right, and knit with No. 3 cashmere yarn guide in the middle , the front plate of the No. 3 velvet yarn guide needs to knit the twisted structure a1 with the help of the empty needles relative to the needle plate, and repeat the front and rear plate loops to weave a non-connected single-piece cylindrical air layer structure;

When weaving to the opening position of the half-sleeve velvet yarn, the left No. 1 waste yarn guide and the right No. 2 waste yarn guide exit the knitting area at the same time and do not participate in knitting; at the same time, the left side is brought into the No. Sleeves, knit the right sleeve with No. 5 velvet yarn guide on the right side, knit the left sleeve, right sleeve and shirt body with the No. 3 velvet yarn guide in the middle, and complete the knitting of part A;

The process of merging the left sleeve, right sleeve and the body is required. As shown in the b1 position in Figure 4, the left sleeve, right sleeve and body are placed in the body through the horizontal needle reduction position, and the purpose of reducing the needles on the front and rear panels is achieved by using empty needles. , change the size to form raglan sleeves, and when merging, part B only uses No. 3 velvet yarn carrier for knitting, and No. 4 velvet yarn carrier for the left sleeve and No. 5 velvet yarn carrier for the right sleeve exit the knitting area at the same time. do not participate in weaving;

Arriving at the collar position, as shown in the position b2 in the figure, the rear collar is normally woven with a new loop, while the front collar is knit with the needle stopped, the loop gradually exits the knitting state, and finally forms a new loop together with the stitch at the needle stop position , to meet the required size of the collar depth, in line with human body wearing.

As shown in Fig. 5, it is a diagram of the weaving progress trajectory in the present invention.

In order to improve the weaving efficiency and reduce the empty running process of the machine head, the present invention selects 3 system computerized flat knitting machines for weaving.

When the machine head is knitted with the yarn guide from left to right, the system S1 knits with the No. 2 or No. 5 yarn guide, the system S2 knits with the No. 3 yarn guide, and the system S3 knits with the No. 1 or No. 4 yarn guide ;When the machine head is knitted with the yarn guide from right to left, the system S1 knits with the

yarn guide

1 or 4, the system S2 knits with the yarn guide 3, and the system S3 knits with the

yarn guide

2 or 5 For knitting, each time the machine head advances a process, the knitting of one row of front board or one row of rear board coils is completed.

As shown in Fig. 6a, it is a plane view of the stitch knitting loop of the present invention; as shown in Fig. 6b, it is a schematic drawing of the stitch knitting loop of the present invention.

The process method for weaving fully formed products with spacer needle technology specifically includes the following steps:

Step 1: Weave the cylindrical air layer as the base tissue structure through spacer stitches;

The base structure is the basis for knitting multi-gauge products. By using 1 empty needle and 1 needle every other needle, the loops of the front and rear plates can be knitted to knit the base structure of the cylindrical air layer.

Introduce the yarn from the direction of the front plate ①, the 1st, 3rd, 5th...odd-numbered needles go out to knit a new loop, and the 2nd, 4th, 6th...even-numbered needles on the front board do not go out, do not knit, and pull the floating thread , only the yarn passes through the needle;

When the yarn is drawn out from the direction of the rear panel ②, the 2nd, 4th, 6th...even-numbered needles are used to knit a new loop, and the 1st, 3rd, 5th...odd-numbered needles of the rear panel are not needled out, do not knit, and pull the floating thread , only the yarn passes through the knitting needles, and the front and rear panels weave new loops in turn.

The knitting needles on the front and rear boards are ejected according to the staggered needle positions, that is, when the needles are ejected from the front board, the needles are not from the rear board, or when the needles from the rear board are ejected, the needles from the front board are not. There is no obvious difference in the appearance effect between the cylindrical air layer structure and the normal gauge knitting structure.

As shown in Figure 7, it is a schematic diagram of twisted flower structure in the present invention.

Twist weave design, with the help of the empty needle position relative to the needle board to perform the cross-over action of the twisted coil, take 2 needles pressing 2 twisting, the direction is right pressing left as an example to illustrate the knitting process, the shaker is wrong board needle The number is an even number of needles, and the number of needles on the shaking table is a multiple of the number of twisted needles.

When the front panel is twisted, first transfer the crossed front panel stitch to the empty needle position on the back panel. At this time, the twisted stitch position on the front panel is empty, and then turn the stitch on the right rear panel to the left by 4 stitches After the position, transfer to the needle position corresponding to the left side of the front board, and finally turn the stitches on the left rear board to the right by 4 needle positions, then transfer to the needle position corresponding to the right side of the front board, and complete the stitching of the right and left side of the front board cross swap. In the same way, the twisting principle of the rear plate is exactly the same as that of the front plate. Only the direction of the transfer shaker is opposite, so that the coils of the front plate and the rear plate can be twisted separately, and there is no adhesion between the coils of the front and rear plates.

Step 2: Knit the left and right sleeves and the body area respectively according to different yarn guides, and combine the sleeves and body with the needle reduction process above the hanging shoulders;

As shown in FIG. 8 , it is a structural view of the combined coil of the sleeve body in the present invention.

Fig. 8 is a structural diagram of the combined loops of the sleeve body continuing with the schematic diagram of the raglan section shown in Fig. 4 .

The combination of sleeve and body is the key process of sweater technology, which is completed by hanging shoulders and reducing stitches. The left and right sleeves and the body structure are composed of D, E, and F areas. Among them, the D area is used to knit the left sleeve part with the No. 4 yarn guide, the E area is used to knit the body part with the No. 3 yarn guide, and the F area is equipped with the No. 5 guide. The yarn device knits the right sleeve part; 3 yarn guides separately knit the respective areas of the body sleeve, and the areas are open and not connected.

As shown in a2, when weaving to the armpit hanging shoulder position, the left sleeve and right sleeve merge with the middle body, the No. 4 yarn guide in the D area of the left sleeve and the No. 5 yarn guide in the F area of the right sleeve exit knitting. At the same time, The No. 3 yarn guide combines the loops in the D, E, and F areas through weaving, and then according to the technical requirements, the overall stitching of the loops on the front and rear panels of the hanging shoulders is placed in the E area of the body to form a falling sleeve structure b2, which meets the requirements of sleeves and hanging shoulders. The purpose of the curve craft size is to complete the combined structure of the sleeve body and weave it to fit the human body.

As shown in FIG. 9 , it is an intention diagram of shoulder hanging and stitch reduction continuous with the sleeve body merging loop structure diagram in the present invention.

After merging the yarn guides for the sleeve body, the knitting process is carried out according to the size requirements of the hanging shoulder and the sleeve mountain. The knitting process is illustrated by taking the needle reduction action on the left side as an example.

With the help of the empty needle position of the relative needle plate, the stitches of the front and rear plates are respectively reduced. First, weave the base weave loops on the front and back boards, then transfer the reducing stitches on the front board to the empty needle position on the back board, move the rear board to the right by 2 needle positions, then turn the back board loops back to the front board, and the stitches are completed The stitch reduction action of the front board stitch; in the same way, transfer the stitch reduction stitch of the back board to the empty needle position of the front board, move the rear board to the left by 2 needle positions, and then turn the stitch of the front board back to the back board to complete The needle reduction action of the rear plate coils respectively forms the falling sleeve structure of the front and rear plate coils (shown at X position in Figure 9), the needle plate moves 2 needle positions, and the front and rear plate coils are respectively subtracted by 1 stitch (Y position in Figure 9 shown).

Step 3: Knit with a deep stop at the front neck.

As shown in FIG. 10 , it is a structure diagram of the front collar deep rest knitting loop in the present invention.

The unique needle selection system of the computerized flat knitting machine can select the function of each knitting needle purposefully, and knitting methods such as looping, tucking, and non-knitting can be performed on the same row at the same time.

The rest design is only for the front coil (shown at the O position in Figure 10), the back coil is normally woven, and the front collar depth adopts a gradual rest knitting method from the middle to both sides (shown at the S position in Figure 10), and the front collar deep coil It is reduced accordingly, the more the number of resting rows, the higher the collar depth, and vice versa; because the loops of the front plate are hung on the knitting needles and gradually withdraw from knitting, forming a hole effect, which affects the appearance, and the tuck hanging with 1 stitch at the edge is adopted. To make up the appearance effect caused by the eyelet (shown at T position in Figure 10).

After the knitting is completed, weave the front and back panel loops together to end the collar. The rest knitting sequence of the collar is: the initial point with the yarn guide travels from left to right, in accordance with the rear coil → the front coil (right) → the front coil (right) → the rear coil → the front coil (left) → the front Plate coil (left), according to this cycle direction, you can knit a "back high front low" collar technology with a front collar depth, which conforms to the collar depth size.

So far, the weaving process of a fully formed raglan sleeve product has been completed through these four steps.

According to the above embodiments, it can meet the knitting realization of the basic sweater-like molding process, and reduce the production of traditional sweater fitting, upper sleeves and upper collars and other sewing equipment fitting processes under the basic premise of conforming to human body wear, On the basis of not increasing production cost and added value, improve production efficiency, change the direction of product process design, and provide ideas and help for enterprises to develop the production of fully formed products.

Appropriate changes can be made without departing from the gist of the present invention. It is suitable for the weaving of woolen knitted fabrics of other different models; the style structure is not limited to the scope of implementation listed in the present invention, and the implementation changes of conventional basic styles such as three-quarter sleeves and long sleeves can be carried out; The twisted flower direction and twisted flower size listed can also be achieved by the weaving of some mesh hollows or other computer composite tissue structures. In addition, the size of the needle hook is the main factor for hooking or holding the yarn,

The size of the needle hook is directly related to the style and needle type of the knitted product. Applying this weaving method to product design can achieve better results in reducing production costs and improving production efficiency.

The terms used herein are terms of description and illustration, rather than limitation. Since the present invention can be embodied in various forms without departing from the spirit or essence of the technical solution, it should be understood that the above-mentioned embodiments are not limited to any of the foregoing details, but should be widely used within the spirit and scope defined by the appended claims. Therefore, all changes and modifications that come within the scope of the claims or their equivalents are intended to be covered by the appended claims.

Industrial Applicability

The invention adopts the double-needle board computerized flat knitting machine and the multi-gauge spacer needle technology, which can realize the weaving of fully formed seamless products.

Claims

A process method for a fully formed product with spacer needle technology, which is characterized in that the cylindrical air layer is knitted by spacer needles as the base tissue structure, and the left sleeve, right sleeve and body area are respectively knitted according to different yarn guides, and the hanging shoulders The left sleeve, the right sleeve and the body are merged and formed through the needle reduction process above, and the front collar is knit with a deep stop of the needle to complete the knitting of the fully formed product.
The process method for fully formed products with spaced-needle technology according to claim 1, wherein the computerized flat knitting machine has a pair of needle plates facing each other front and back, and at least one needle plate of the front needle plate or the rear needle plate faces left or right The staggered board shaker performs the cross-transposition between the coils; the flat knitting machine includes five yarn guides, two of which carry waste yarns, and the other three yarn guides carry the main yarn for knitting; the computerized flat knitting machine has three System functions.
The process method of fully formed products with spacer needle technology according to claim 1, characterized in that the number of hooked or held yarns is increased by increasing the hook bending distance of the knitting needles.
The process method of the fully formed product with spacer needle technology as claimed in claim 1, wherein the needle spacer cylindrical knitting is used as the base tissue structure, which specifically includes: using 1 empty space and 1 spacer needle to output needles, knitting the front and rear plate loops in a cycle, knitting Cylindrical air layer base tissue coil structure; the needles of the front plate and the rear plate are output according to the staggered needle position, that is, when the front plate is out of the needle, the back plate is out of the needle, or when the back plate is out of the needle, the front plate is out of the needle. Needles form the underlying tissue structure.
The process method of fully formed products with spacer needle technology as claimed in claim 4, characterized in that, when knitting with one empty needle and one spacer needle to form a loop, the stitches are transferred and shifted by means of the empty needles on the opposite needle plate to realize Cable, mesh openwork or reduced stitch motions for texture and craft shaping.
The process method of fully formed products with spacer needle technology as claimed in claim 4, characterized in that, the stitches of the front plate and the rear plate coils of the hanging shoulder part are respectively reduced by means of the empty needle position, so as to realize the sleeve height of the left sleeve and the right sleeve The curve is formed at the hanging shoulder position, and the sleeve body is completed with a structural weave.
The process method of fully formed products with spacer needle technology as claimed in claim 4, characterized in that the coils of the back panel are normally woven, the collar coils of the front panel are woven with needles stopped, and the deep coils of the front collar are gradually stopped from the middle to both sides, The front collar depth coil is correspondingly reduced to meet the collar depth size requirement.