WO2022110546A1 - Lace fabric for warm clothing - Google Patents

Lace fabric for warm clothing Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022110546A1
WO2022110546A1 PCT/CN2021/075202 CN2021075202W WO2022110546A1 WO 2022110546 A1 WO2022110546 A1 WO 2022110546A1 CN 2021075202 W CN2021075202 W CN 2021075202W WO 2022110546 A1 WO2022110546 A1 WO 2022110546A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
yarn
layer
denier
lace fabric
fabric
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PCT/CN2021/075202
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French (fr)
Chinese (zh)
Inventor
胡军岩
罗文华
陆韶云
Original Assignee
东莞超盈纺织有限公司
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Publication of WO2022110546A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022110546A1/en

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B21/08Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/021Moisture-responsive characteristics hydrophobic

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the field of textile functional fabric design and preparation, in particular to a lace fabric used for thermal clothing.
  • the raw materials of lace are generally polyester or nylon and other chemical fiber raw materials. Such fabrics lack the functions of breathability and moisture absorption and perspiration. At the same time, lace fabrics can be used for the thermal insulation layer of fabrics, so a certain thermal insulation function is required. It is difficult for such fabrics to meet the above requirements.
  • the present invention provides a lace fabric for thermal clothing.
  • the present invention adopts the following technical solutions:
  • a lace fabric for thermal clothing comprising a fabric body, the fabric body comprising a hydrophobic layer L1, a hydrophilic layer L2 and a tight layer L3 arranged in sequence, the hydrophobic layer L1 is used as a skin-facing surface, and the hydrophilic layer L2 is an intermediate layer , the tight layer L3 is the outer surface layer, the water conductivity of the hydrophilic layer L2 and the hydrophobic layer L1 is different to form a difference in water conductivity, realizing the function of unidirectional moisture conduction, and the hydrophobic layer has an uneven 3D three-dimensional structure; the tight layer L3 is made of yarn The yarn Y4 and the yarn Y5 are woven in a weft-inserted structure; the hydrophilic layer L2 is woven by the yarn Y3 in a weft-inserted jacquard structure; the hydrophobic layer L1 is woven from the yarn Y1 and the yarn Y2, wherein the yarn Y1 It is a braided structure, the yarn Y
  • the water conductivity ratios of the yarn Y3 to the yarn Y1 and the yarn Y2 are LPY3:LPY1 ⁇ 2.0, LPY3:LPY2 ⁇ 2.0, and the water conductivity ratio of the yarn Y3 to the yarn Y5 is LPY5:LPY3 ⁇ 0.5.
  • the number of the underlay is 0-0/1-1//; when the yarn Y2 is in the loop structure, the basic number of the underlay is 1-0/0-1//.
  • the yarn laying number of the yarn Y3 is 0-0/2-2//.
  • the yarn laying number of the yarn Y4 is 0-0/1-1//
  • the yarn laying number of the yarn Y5 is 0-0/2-2//.
  • the yarn Y1 is nylon filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 20-150D; or the yarn Y1 is polyester filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 30-150D.
  • the yarn Y2 is nylon filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 40-840D; or the yarn Y2 is polyester filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 50-840D.
  • the yarn Y3 is nylon filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 20-150D; or the yarn Y3 is polyester filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 30-150D.
  • the yarn Y4 is spandex with a denier of 40-560D.
  • the yarn Y5 is nylon filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 20-150D; or the yarn Y5 is polyester filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 30-150D.
  • the hydrophobic layer L1 and the hydrophilic layer L2 form a large difference in water conductivity, so as to realize the function of unidirectional moisture conductivity.
  • the hydrophobic layer L1 is set as a 3D three-dimensional structure, which reduces the contact area between the fabric and the skin and improves the dryness and comfort of the skin; increasing the tight layer L3 reduces the outflow of warm air and the entry of cold air, achieving a warm effect and good hydrophobicity. In terms of production, it also maximizes the integration of multiple functions, reduces the production process in the latter stage, and reduces the production cost.
  • Figure 7 is a movement diagram of the yarn Y5 laying yarn of the present invention.
  • a lace fabric for thermal clothing includes a fabric body, the fabric body includes a hydrophobic layer L1, a hydrophilic layer L2 and a tight layer L3 arranged in sequence, and the hydrophobic layer L1 serves as a skin-adhering layer.
  • the hydrophilic layer L2 is the middle layer
  • the compact layer L3 is the outer layer
  • the water conductivity of the hydrophilic layer L2 and the hydrophobic layer L1 is different to form a difference in water conductivity, realizing the function of unidirectional moisture conduction, and the hydrophobic layer is uneven.
  • 3D three-dimensional structure.
  • the compact layer L3 is woven from the yarn Y4 and the yarn Y5 in a weft-inserted structure; the hydrophilic layer L2 is woven from the yarn Y3 with a weft-inserted jacquard structure; the hydrophobic layer L1 is woven from the yarn Y1 and the yarn Y2.
  • the yarn Y1 is a braided structure
  • the yarn Y2 is a loop-forming structure or a weft-inserted structure
  • the water-conducting capacity of the yarn Y1 and Y2 is less than the water-conducting capacity of the yarn Y3 and Y5
  • the yarn Y4 is Spandex or elastic yarns ensure unidirectional wettability.
  • Yarn Y4 is spandex or elastic yarn, which provides some elasticity.
  • the hydrophobic layer L1 is set as a 3D three-dimensional structure, that is, it has an uneven structure, which reduces the contact area between the fabric and the skin and improves the dryness and comfort of the skin.
  • the tight layer L3 reduces the outflow of warm air and the entry of cold air to achieve the effect of keeping warm.
  • the hydrophobic layer L1 acts as a skin-sticking layer and is in contact with the skin.
  • the intermediate layer utilizes good hydrophilicity, which is beneficial to guide water from the hydrophobic layer to the hydrophilic layer. Outer unidirectional wettability.
  • the water conductivity ratio of the yarn Y3 to the yarn Y1 and the yarn Y2 is LPY3:LPY1 ⁇ 2.0, LPY3:LPY2 ⁇ 2.0, and the water conductivity ratio of the yarn Y3 to the yarn Y5 is LPY5:LPY3 ⁇ 0.5. Within this ratio range, better water conductivity can be ensured.
  • the number of the underlay is 0-0/1-1//; when the yarn Y2 is in the loop structure, the basic number of the underlay is 1-0/0-1//.
  • the yarn laying number of the yarn Y3 is 0-0/2-2//.
  • the yarn laying number of the yarn Y4 is 0-0/1-1//
  • the yarn laying number of the yarn Y5 is 0-0/2-2//.
  • the yarn Y1 is nylon filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 20-150D; or the yarn Y1 is polyester filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 30-150D.
  • the yarn Y2 is nylon filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 40-840D; or the yarn Y2 is polyester filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 50-840D.
  • the yarn Y3 is nylon filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 20-150D; or the yarn Y3 is polyester filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 30-150D.
  • the yarn Y4 is spandex with a denier of 40-560D.
  • the yarn Y5 is nylon filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 20-150D; or the yarn Y5 is polyester filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 30-150D.
  • the fabric body can be a stretch fabric or a non-stretch fabric as desired.
  • the fabric is woven with a lace machine with a knitting needle density of 14-28 per inch, and the specific production steps include:
  • the warping operator prepares the raw materials on the pan head according to the requirements of the process sheet, and the yarn used for flower combs is prepared on the bobbin according to the requirements of the process sheet;
  • the yarn threading ground comb head is threaded onto the yarn guide needle of the corresponding comb bar, and the bobbin of the flower comb yarn is threaded onto the corresponding comb bar yarn guide needle through the elastic sheet according to the process sheet and the comb bar arrangement list.
  • Warping machine type Karl Mayer DS 21/30 NC-2 with positive yarn feed.
  • Warping temperature 23°C.
  • Warping humidity 65%.
  • the workshop sets the warping process parameters, and considers whether to add warping oil to the yarn according to the actual situation.
  • Warping machine type Karl Mayer DSE-H21/30 NC-2, positive yarn feed.
  • Warping temperature 24°C.
  • Warping humidity 78%.
  • the workshop sets the warping process parameters under the above temperature and humidity conditions.
  • Machine model Guangzhou Feihong Houjiaka flat warp knitting machine FHJ65/1-H.
  • Circle bar Y1 fully worn, PA6 40D/12F.
  • Yarn comb Y2 yarn selection and threading according to design needs.
  • Jacquard comb Y3 fully worn, PA6 70D/68F.
  • Weft insertion bar Y4 fully worn, PU 140D.
  • Post-processing steps open-width water washing ⁇ presetting ⁇ overflow dyeing ⁇ finishing.

Abstract

A lace fabric for warm clothing, comprising a fabric body. The fabric body comprises a hydrophobic layer L1, a hydrophilic layer L2 and a compact layer L3, which are sequentially arranged, wherein the hydrophobic layer L1 is used as a skin-touching surface, the hydrophilic layer L2 is an intermediate layer, and the compact layer L3 is an outer surface layer, and the difference in the water transport ability between the hydrophilic layer L2 and the hydrophobic layer L1 creates a water transport ability difference, thus realizing the function of one-way moisture transport; the compact layer L3 is formed by weaving a yarn Y4 and a yarn Y5 in a weft insertion structure; the hydrophilic layer L2 is formed by weaving a yarn Y3 away in a weft-insertion jacquard structure; the hydrophobic layer L1 is formed by weaving a yarn Y1 and a yarn Y2, wherein the yarn Y1 has a chain stitch structure, and the yarn Y2 has a loop-forming structure or a weft-insertion structure; the water transport ability of yarns Y1 and Y2 is less than that of yarns Y3 and Y5, and yarn Y4 is spandex or elastic yarn. The lace fabric improves the dryness and comfort of skin, and has a warm-keeping effect.

Description

一种用于保暖服饰的蕾丝织物A lace fabric for thermal clothing 技术领域technical field
本发明属于纺织功能面料设计与制备领域,具体的是涉及一种用于保暖服饰的蕾丝织物。The invention belongs to the field of textile functional fabric design and preparation, in particular to a lace fabric used for thermal clothing.
背景技术Background technique
近些年来,随着科学技术的发展,人们的生活质量不断的提高,对于服装的要求也日趋提高。除了需要其具有美观的基础作用外,在不同的环境或场合还需要满足各种不同的功能。目前市场上普遍存在的多功能面料是通过后整理的方法来达到效果,但这个效果并不会一直存在,而是会随着衣物的穿着使用以及衣物的洗涤慢慢的减弱,直到消失;而不采用后整理的方法则面料的功能效果单一,无法满足人们生活在不同的环境或场合所需要的功能。In recent years, with the development of science and technology, people's quality of life has been continuously improved, and the requirements for clothing are also increasing. In addition to the basic function of aesthetics, it also needs to meet various functions in different environments or occasions. At present, the multi-functional fabrics commonly found in the market achieve the effect by finishing, but this effect will not always exist, but will gradually weaken with the wearing and use of the clothes and the washing of the clothes until it disappears; If the post-finishing method is not adopted, the functional effect of the fabric is single, and it cannot meet the functions required by people living in different environments or occasions.
蕾丝花边一般用的原料是涤纶或锦纶等化纤原料,这类织物的透气及吸湿排汗功能是欠缺的;同时蕾丝花边面料可用于织物保暖层,故需要一定的保暖功能,而现有的该类织物难以满足上述需求。The raw materials of lace are generally polyester or nylon and other chemical fiber raw materials. Such fabrics lack the functions of breathability and moisture absorption and perspiration. At the same time, lace fabrics can be used for the thermal insulation layer of fabrics, so a certain thermal insulation function is required. It is difficult for such fabrics to meet the above requirements.
技术问题technical problem
为克服上述技术问题,本发明提供一种用于保暖服饰的蕾丝织物。In order to overcome the above technical problems, the present invention provides a lace fabric for thermal clothing.
技术解决方案technical solutions
为了解决上述技术问题,本发明采取以下技术方案:In order to solve the above-mentioned technical problems, the present invention adopts the following technical solutions:
一种用于保暖服饰的蕾丝织物,包括织物本体,所述织物本体包括依次设置的疏水层L1、亲水层L2和紧密层L3,疏水层L1作为贴肤面,亲水层L2为中间层,紧密层L3为外表层,亲水层L2和疏水层L1的导水能力不同形成一个导水能力差值,实现单向导湿功能,疏水层具有凹凸不平的3D立体结构;紧密层L3由纱线Y4和纱线Y5以衬纬结构编织而成;亲水层L2由纱线Y3走衬纬提花结构编织而成;疏水层L1由纱线Y1和纱线Y2编织而成,其中纱线Y1为编链结构,纱线Y2为成圈结构或衬纬结构,纱线Y1、纱线Y2的导水能力小于纱线Y3、纱线Y5的导水能力,纱线Y4为氨纶或弹性纱。A lace fabric for thermal clothing, comprising a fabric body, the fabric body comprising a hydrophobic layer L1, a hydrophilic layer L2 and a tight layer L3 arranged in sequence, the hydrophobic layer L1 is used as a skin-facing surface, and the hydrophilic layer L2 is an intermediate layer , the tight layer L3 is the outer surface layer, the water conductivity of the hydrophilic layer L2 and the hydrophobic layer L1 is different to form a difference in water conductivity, realizing the function of unidirectional moisture conduction, and the hydrophobic layer has an uneven 3D three-dimensional structure; the tight layer L3 is made of yarn The yarn Y4 and the yarn Y5 are woven in a weft-inserted structure; the hydrophilic layer L2 is woven by the yarn Y3 in a weft-inserted jacquard structure; the hydrophobic layer L1 is woven from the yarn Y1 and the yarn Y2, wherein the yarn Y1 It is a braided structure, the yarn Y2 is a loop-forming structure or a weft-inserted structure, the water-conducting capacity of the yarn Y1 and Y2 is less than that of the yarn Y3 and Y5, and the yarn Y4 is spandex or elastic yarn.
所述纱线Y3与纱线Y1、纱线Y2的导水能力比值为LPY3:LPY1≥2.0、LPY3:LPY2≥2.0, 纱线Y3与纱线Y5的导水能力比值LPY5:LPY3≤0.5。The water conductivity ratios of the yarn Y3 to the yarn Y1 and the yarn Y2 are LPY3:LPY1≥2.0, LPY3:LPY2≥2.0, and the water conductivity ratio of the yarn Y3 to the yarn Y5 is LPY5:LPY3≤0.5.
所述纱线Y2走衬纬结构时,垫纱数码为0-0/1-1//;纱线 Y2走成圈结构时,基本垫纱数码为1-0/0-1//。When the yarn Y2 is in the weft-inserting structure, the number of the underlay is 0-0/1-1//; when the yarn Y2 is in the loop structure, the basic number of the underlay is 1-0/0-1//.
所述纱线Y3的垫纱数码为0-0/2-2//。The yarn laying number of the yarn Y3 is 0-0/2-2//.
所述纱线Y4的垫纱数码为0-0/1-1//,纱线Y5的垫纱数码为0-0/2-2//。The yarn laying number of the yarn Y4 is 0-0/1-1//, and the yarn laying number of the yarn Y5 is 0-0/2-2//.
所述纱线Y1为锦纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在20-150D之间;或者纱线Y1为涤纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在30-150D之间。The yarn Y1 is nylon filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 20-150D; or the yarn Y1 is polyester filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 30-150D.
所述纱线Y2为锦纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在40-840D之间;或者纱线Y2为涤纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在50-840D之间.The yarn Y2 is nylon filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 40-840D; or the yarn Y2 is polyester filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 50-840D.
所述纱线Y3为锦纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在20-150D之间;或者纱线Y3为涤纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在30-150D之间。The yarn Y3 is nylon filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 20-150D; or the yarn Y3 is polyester filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 30-150D.
所述纱线Y4为氨纶,旦数为40-560D。The yarn Y4 is spandex with a denier of 40-560D.
所述纱线Y5为为锦纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在20-150D之间;或者纱线Y5为涤纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在30-150D之间。The yarn Y5 is nylon filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 20-150D; or the yarn Y5 is polyester filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 30-150D.
有益效果beneficial effect
本发明疏水层L1和亲水层L2形成一个大的导水能力差值,实现单向导湿功能。疏水层L1设为3D立体结构,减少了面料与皮肤的接触面积,提高了皮肤的干爽舒适性;增加紧密层L3则减少暖空气的流出以及冷空气的进入,达到保暖效果,具有良好的疏水性和保暖性,在生产程度上也极大限度了做到了多功能合一,减少了后段的生产工序,降低了生产成本。In the present invention, the hydrophobic layer L1 and the hydrophilic layer L2 form a large difference in water conductivity, so as to realize the function of unidirectional moisture conductivity. The hydrophobic layer L1 is set as a 3D three-dimensional structure, which reduces the contact area between the fabric and the skin and improves the dryness and comfort of the skin; increasing the tight layer L3 reduces the outflow of warm air and the entry of cold air, achieving a warm effect and good hydrophobicity. In terms of production, it also maximizes the integration of multiple functions, reduces the production process in the latter stage, and reduces the production cost.
附图说明Description of drawings
附图1为本发明剖面结构示意图;Accompanying drawing 1 is the sectional structure schematic diagram of the present invention;
附图2为本发明结构垫纱运动图;Accompanying drawing 2 is the movement diagram of structure laying yarn of the present invention;
附图3为本发明纱线Y1垫纱运动图;Accompanying drawing 3 is the yarn laying motion diagram of yarn Y1 of the present invention;
附图4为本发明纱线Y2垫纱运动图;Accompanying drawing 4 is the yarn Y2 laying motion diagram of the present invention;
附图5为本发明纱线Y3垫纱运动图;Accompanying drawing 5 is the yarn Y3 laying motion diagram of the present invention;
附图6为本发明纱线Y4垫纱运动图;Accompanying drawing 6 is the yarn Y4 laying motion diagram of the present invention;
附图7为本发明纱线Y5垫纱运动图。Figure 7 is a movement diagram of the yarn Y5 laying yarn of the present invention.
本发明的实施方式Embodiments of the present invention
为能进一步了解本发明的特征、技术手段以及所达到的具体目的、功能,下面结合附图与具体实施方式对本发明作进一步详细描述。 In order to further understand the features, technical means, and specific goals and functions of the present invention, the present invention will be described in further detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments.
如附图1和2所示,一种用于保暖服饰的蕾丝织物,包括织物本体,所述织物本体包括依次设置的疏水层L1、亲水层L2和紧密层L3,疏水层L1作为贴肤面,亲水层L2为中间层,紧密层L3为外表层,亲水层L2和疏水层L1的导水能力不同形成一个导水能力差值,实现单向导湿功能,疏水层为具有凹凸不平的3D立体结构。As shown in Figures 1 and 2, a lace fabric for thermal clothing includes a fabric body, the fabric body includes a hydrophobic layer L1, a hydrophilic layer L2 and a tight layer L3 arranged in sequence, and the hydrophobic layer L1 serves as a skin-adhering layer. On the surface, the hydrophilic layer L2 is the middle layer, the compact layer L3 is the outer layer, and the water conductivity of the hydrophilic layer L2 and the hydrophobic layer L1 is different to form a difference in water conductivity, realizing the function of unidirectional moisture conduction, and the hydrophobic layer is uneven. 3D three-dimensional structure.
紧密层L3由纱线Y4和纱线Y5以衬纬结构编织而成;亲水层L2由纱线Y3走衬纬提花结构编织而成;疏水层L1由纱线Y1和纱线Y2编织而成,其中纱线Y1为编链结构,纱线Y2为成圈结构或衬纬结构,纱线Y1、纱线Y2的导水能力小于纱线Y3、纱线Y5的导水能力,纱线Y4为氨纶或弹性纱,确保了单向导湿性能。纱线Y4为氨纶或弹性纱,提供了一定的弹性。The compact layer L3 is woven from the yarn Y4 and the yarn Y5 in a weft-inserted structure; the hydrophilic layer L2 is woven from the yarn Y3 with a weft-inserted jacquard structure; the hydrophobic layer L1 is woven from the yarn Y1 and the yarn Y2. , wherein the yarn Y1 is a braided structure, the yarn Y2 is a loop-forming structure or a weft-inserted structure, the water-conducting capacity of the yarn Y1 and Y2 is less than the water-conducting capacity of the yarn Y3 and Y5, and the yarn Y4 is Spandex or elastic yarns ensure unidirectional wettability. Yarn Y4 is spandex or elastic yarn, which provides some elasticity.
疏水层L1设为3D立体结构,即具有凹凸不平的结构,减少了面料与皮肤的接触面积,提高了皮肤的干爽舒适性。紧密层L3则减少暖空气的流出以及冷空气的进入,达到保暖效果。The hydrophobic layer L1 is set as a 3D three-dimensional structure, that is, it has an uneven structure, which reduces the contact area between the fabric and the skin and improves the dryness and comfort of the skin. The tight layer L3 reduces the outflow of warm air and the entry of cold air to achieve the effect of keeping warm.
疏水层L1作为贴肤层,与肌肤接触,中间层利用较好的亲水性,有利于将水从疏水层引导到亲水层,亲水层的导水能力较强,因此,整体形成朝向外的单向导湿能力。The hydrophobic layer L1 acts as a skin-sticking layer and is in contact with the skin. The intermediate layer utilizes good hydrophilicity, which is beneficial to guide water from the hydrophobic layer to the hydrophilic layer. Outer unidirectional wettability.
所述纱线Y3与纱线Y1、纱线Y2的导水能力比值为LPY3:LPY1≥2.0、LPY3:LPY2≥2.0, 纱线Y3与纱线Y5的导水能力比值LPY5:LPY3≤0.5,通过限定在这个比值范围内,可以确保较佳的导水性。The water conductivity ratio of the yarn Y3 to the yarn Y1 and the yarn Y2 is LPY3:LPY1≥2.0, LPY3:LPY2≥2.0, and the water conductivity ratio of the yarn Y3 to the yarn Y5 is LPY5:LPY3≤0.5. Within this ratio range, better water conductivity can be ensured.
所述纱线Y2走衬纬结构时,垫纱数码为0-0/1-1//;纱线 Y2走成圈结构时,基本垫纱数码为1-0/0-1//。When the yarn Y2 is in the weft-inserting structure, the number of the underlay is 0-0/1-1//; when the yarn Y2 is in the loop structure, the basic number of the underlay is 1-0/0-1//.
所述纱线Y3的垫纱数码为0-0/2-2//。The yarn laying number of the yarn Y3 is 0-0/2-2//.
所述纱线Y4的垫纱数码为0-0/1-1//,纱线Y5的垫纱数码为0-0/2-2//。The yarn laying number of the yarn Y4 is 0-0/1-1//, and the yarn laying number of the yarn Y5 is 0-0/2-2//.
所述纱线Y1为锦纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在20-150D之间;或者纱线Y1为涤纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在30-150D之间。The yarn Y1 is nylon filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 20-150D; or the yarn Y1 is polyester filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 30-150D.
所述纱线Y2为锦纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在40-840D之间;或者纱线Y2为涤纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在50-840D之间.The yarn Y2 is nylon filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 40-840D; or the yarn Y2 is polyester filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 50-840D.
所述纱线Y3为锦纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在20-150D之间;或者纱线Y3为涤纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在30-150D之间。The yarn Y3 is nylon filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 20-150D; or the yarn Y3 is polyester filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 30-150D.
所述纱线Y4为氨纶,旦数为40-560D。The yarn Y4 is spandex with a denier of 40-560D.
所述纱线Y5为为锦纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在20-150D之间;或者纱线Y5为涤纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在30-150D之间。The yarn Y5 is nylon filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 20-150D; or the yarn Y5 is polyester filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 30-150D.
根据需要,织物本体可为弹力织物或非弹力织物。The fabric body can be a stretch fabric or a non-stretch fabric as desired.
所述织物采用织针密度为每英寸14-28个的花边机编织而成,具体的生产步骤包括:The fabric is woven with a lace machine with a knitting needle density of 14-28 per inch, and the specific production steps include:
1.工艺设计根据产品设想要求设计花稿,并根据花稿进行工艺设计、制作工艺单;1. Process design Design the flower draft according to the product design requirements, and carry out the process design and make the process sheet according to the flower draft;
2.备料根据工艺要求合理选择织机及所用的纱线后,由整经操作工按照工艺单要求将原料备到盘头上,花梳所用的纱线按照工艺单要求备料到筒子上;2. Material preparation After the loom and the yarn used are reasonably selected according to the process requirements, the warping operator prepares the raw materials on the pan head according to the requirements of the process sheet, and the yarn used for flower combs is prepared on the bobbin according to the requirements of the process sheet;
3.穿纱地梳盘头穿到对应的梳栉的导纱针上,花梳纱线的筒子按照工艺单以及梳栉排列表,经过弹力片穿到对应的梳栉的导纱针上。3. The yarn threading ground comb head is threaded onto the yarn guide needle of the corresponding comb bar, and the bobbin of the flower comb yarn is threaded onto the corresponding comb bar yarn guide needle through the elastic sheet according to the process sheet and the comb bar arrangement list.
4.调节张力及开机所有的纱线按照要求穿纱完后挂出布头,再根据设计要求及机上实际情况调节各套盘头、各个花梳筒子的纱线张力,保证其在合理的范围之内,再检查是否还有其他的问题,全部排除后即可开机编织。4. Adjust the tension and start the machine. After all the yarns are threaded according to the requirements, hang out the cloth head, and then adjust the yarn tension of each set of pan heads and each flower comb bobbin according to the design requirements and the actual situation on the machine to ensure that it is within a reasonable range. inside, and then check whether there are other problems. After all are eliminated, the knitting can be started.
5.后处理工序 : 平幅水洗→预定型→溢流染色→后整理5. Post-processing process: open-width water washing→pre-type→overflow dyeing→finishing
实施案例Implementation case
1.花边机所用的纱线整经:1. Yarn warping used in lace machine:
(1)弹性复合纱的整经:(1) Warping of elastic composite yarn:
整经机机型:Karl Mayer  DS 21/30 NC-2,积极式送纱。Warping machine type: Karl Mayer DS 21/30 NC-2 with positive yarn feed.
整经温度:23℃。Warping temperature: 23°C.
整经湿度:65%。Warping humidity: 65%.
车间在上述温湿度的条件下,设置整经工艺参数,并且根据实际情况考虑是否对纱线做加整经油处理。Under the conditions of the above temperature and humidity, the workshop sets the warping process parameters, and considers whether to add warping oil to the yarn according to the actual situation.
(2)氨纶整经:(2) Spandex warping:
整经机机型:Karl Mayer  DSE-H21/30 NC-2,积极式送纱。Warping machine type: Karl Mayer DSE-H21/30 NC-2, positive yarn feed.
整经温度:24℃。Warping temperature: 24°C.
整经湿度:78%。Warping humidity: 78%.
车间在上述温湿度的条件下,设置整经工艺参数。The workshop sets the warping process parameters under the above temperature and humidity conditions.
2.织造:2. Weaving:
机器型号:广州霏鸿后贾卡平板经编机FHJ65/1-H。Machine model: Guangzhou Feihong Houjiaka flat warp knitting machine FHJ65/1-H.
机号:28。Machine Number: 28.
3.穿纱方式以及纱线的选用:3. Yarn threading method and selection of yarn:
成圈梳栉Y1:满穿,PA6 40D/12F 。Circle bar Y1: fully worn, PA6 40D/12F.
花纱梳栉Y2:根据设计需要选纱、穿纱。Yarn comb Y2: yarn selection and threading according to design needs.
贾卡梳栉Y3:满穿,PA6 70D/68F。Jacquard comb Y3: fully worn, PA6 70D/68F.
衬纬梳栉Y4:满穿,PU 140D。Weft insertion bar Y4: fully worn, PU 140D.
衬纬底梳Y5:满穿,PA6 140D/48F。Weft insertion bottom comb Y5: full wear, PA6 140D/48F.
后处理工序: 平幅水洗→预定型→溢流染色→后整理。Post-processing steps: open-width water washing→presetting→overflow dyeing→finishing.
需要说明的是,以上仅为本发明的优选实施例而已,并不用于限制本发明,尽管参照实施例对本发明进行了详细的说明,对于本领域的技术人员来说,其依然可以对前述实施例所记载的技术方案进行修改,或者对其中部分技术特征进行等同替换,但是凡在本发明的精神和原则之内,所作的任何修改、等同替换、改进等,均应包含在本发明的保护范围之内。It should be noted that the above are only the preferred embodiments of the present invention, and are not intended to limit the present invention. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the embodiments, those skilled in the art can still understand the above-mentioned implementations. Modifications are made to the technical solutions described in the examples, or some technical features thereof are equivalently replaced, but any modifications, equivalent replacements, improvements, etc. made within the spirit and principles of the present invention shall be included in the protection of the present invention. within the range.

Claims (10)

  1. 一种用于保暖服饰的蕾丝织物,包括织物本体,其特征在于,所述织物本体包括依次设置的疏水层L1、亲水层L2和紧密层L3,疏水层L1作为贴肤面,亲水层L2为中间层,紧密层L3为外表层,亲水层L2和疏水层L1的导水能力不同形成一个导水能力差值,实现单向导湿功能,疏水层为具有凹凸不平的3D立体结构;A lace fabric for thermal clothing, comprising a fabric body, characterized in that, the fabric body includes a hydrophobic layer L1, a hydrophilic layer L2 and a tight layer L3 arranged in sequence, the hydrophobic layer L1 serves as a skin-facing surface, and the hydrophilic layer L2 is the middle layer, the tight layer L3 is the outer layer, the water conductivity of the hydrophilic layer L2 and the hydrophobic layer L1 is different to form a difference in water conductivity, realizing the function of unidirectional moisture conduction, and the hydrophobic layer has an uneven 3D three-dimensional structure;
    紧密层L3由纱线Y4和纱线Y5以衬纬结构编织而成;亲水层L2由纱线Y3走衬纬提花结构编织而成;疏水层L1由纱线Y1和纱线Y2编织而成,其中纱线Y1为编链结构,纱线Y2为成圈结构或衬纬结构,纱线Y1、纱线Y2的导水能力小于纱线Y3、纱线Y5的导水能力,纱线Y4为氨纶或弹性纱。The compact layer L3 is woven from the yarn Y4 and the yarn Y5 in a weft-inserted structure; the hydrophilic layer L2 is woven from the yarn Y3 with a weft-inserted jacquard structure; the hydrophobic layer L1 is woven from the yarn Y1 and the yarn Y2. , wherein the yarn Y1 is a braided structure, the yarn Y2 is a loop-forming structure or a weft-inserted structure, the water-conducting capacity of the yarn Y1 and Y2 is less than the water-conducting capacity of the yarn Y3 and Y5, and the yarn Y4 is Spandex or elastic yarn.
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的用于保暖服饰的蕾丝织物,其特征在于,所述纱线Y3与纱线Y1、纱线Y2的导水能力比值为LPY3:LPY1≥2.0、LPY3:LPY2≥2.0, 纱线Y3与纱线Y5的导水能力比值LPY5:LPY3≤0.5。The lace fabric for thermal clothing according to claim 1, wherein the ratio of the water conductivity of the yarn Y3 to the yarn Y1 and the yarn Y2 is LPY3:LPY1≥2.0, LPY3:LPY2≥2.0, The water conductivity ratio of yarn Y3 to yarn Y5 is LPY5:LPY3≤0.5.
  3. 根据权利要求2所述的用于保暖服饰的蕾丝织物,其特征在于,所述纱线Y2走衬纬结构时,垫纱数码为0-0/1-1//;纱线 Y2走成圈结构时,基本垫纱数码为1-0/0-1//。The lace fabric for thermal clothing according to claim 2, characterized in that, when the yarn Y2 runs in the weft-inserting structure, the number of the pad yarn is 0-0/1-1//; the yarn Y2 runs into a circle In structure, the basic yarn number is 1-0/0-1//.
  4. 根据权利要求3所述的用于保暖服饰的蕾丝织物,其特征在于,所述纱线Y3的垫纱数码为0-0/2-2//。The lace fabric for thermal clothing according to claim 3, characterized in that, the yarn number of the yarn Y3 is 0-0/2-2//.
  5. 根据权利要求4所述的用于保暖服饰的蕾丝织物,其特征在于,所述纱线Y4的垫纱数码为0-0/1-1//,纱线Y5的垫纱数码为0-0/2-2//。The lace fabric for thermal clothing according to claim 4, wherein the number of the yarn Y4 is 0-0/1-1//, and the number of the yarn Y5 is 0-0 /2-2//.
  6. 根据权利要求5所述的用于保暖服饰的蕾丝织物,其特征在于,所述纱线Y1为锦纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在20-150D之间;或者纱线Y1为涤纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在30-150D之间。The lace fabric for thermal clothing according to claim 5, wherein the yarn Y1 is nylon filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 20-150D; or the yarn Y1 is polyester filament or Composite yarn, denier between 30-150D.
  7. 根据权利要求6所述的用于保暖服饰的蕾丝织物,其特征在于,所述纱线Y2为锦纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在40-840D之间;或者纱线Y2为涤纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在50-840D之间.The lace fabric for thermal clothing according to claim 6, wherein the yarn Y2 is nylon filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 40-840D; or the yarn Y2 is polyester filament or Composite yarn, denier between 50-840D.
  8. 根据权利要求7所述的用于保暖服饰的蕾丝织物,其特征在于,所述纱线Y3为锦纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在20-150D之间;或者纱线Y3为涤纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在30-150D之间。The lace fabric for thermal clothing according to claim 7, wherein the yarn Y3 is nylon filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 20-150D; or the yarn Y3 is polyester filament or Composite yarn, denier between 30-150D.
  9. 根据权利要求8所述的用于保暖服饰的蕾丝织物,其特征在于,所述纱线Y4为氨纶,旦数为40-560D。The lace fabric for thermal clothing according to claim 8, wherein the yarn Y4 is spandex, and the denier is 40-560D.
  10. 根据权利要求9所述的用于保暖服饰的蕾丝织物,其特征在于,所述纱线Y5为为锦纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在20-150D之间;或者纱线Y5为涤纶长丝或复合纱,旦数在30-150D之间。The lace fabric for thermal clothing according to claim 9, wherein the yarn Y5 is nylon filament or composite yarn, and the denier is between 20-150D; or the yarn Y5 is polyester filament Or composite yarn, denier between 30-150D.
PCT/CN2021/075202 2020-11-30 2021-02-04 Lace fabric for warm clothing WO2022110546A1 (en)

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