WO2021242942A1 - Process for reducing hair damage upon exposure to heat - Google Patents

Process for reducing hair damage upon exposure to heat Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2021242942A1
WO2021242942A1 PCT/US2021/034382 US2021034382W WO2021242942A1 WO 2021242942 A1 WO2021242942 A1 WO 2021242942A1 US 2021034382 W US2021034382 W US 2021034382W WO 2021242942 A1 WO2021242942 A1 WO 2021242942A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
hair
heat
protectant
aqueous
formulation
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/US2021/034382
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Nisaraporn SUTHIWANGCHAROEN
Lyndsay M. LEAL
Emmett M. PARTAIN
Shannon GOLDEN
Justin SCHERZER
Kenneth L. Kearns
Original Assignee
Dow Global Technologies Llc
Rohm And Haas Company
Dow Silicones Corporation
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Dow Global Technologies Llc, Rohm And Haas Company, Dow Silicones Corporation filed Critical Dow Global Technologies Llc
Priority to JP2022565969A priority Critical patent/JP2023527114A/en
Priority to BR112022022651A priority patent/BR112022022651A2/en
Priority to KR1020227044845A priority patent/KR20230017808A/en
Priority to CN202180031177.6A priority patent/CN115461038A/en
Priority to US17/918,251 priority patent/US20230145339A1/en
Priority to EP21734609.7A priority patent/EP4157212A1/en
Publication of WO2021242942A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021242942A1/en

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D19/00Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
    • A45D19/0041Processes for treating the hair of the scalp
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/416Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/48Thickener, Thickening system
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for reducing hair damage upon exposure of the hair to heat.
  • the present invention relates to a process for reducing hair damage upon exposure of the hair to heat, comprising: providing a cosmetically acceptable aqueous carrier; selecting a heat protectant, wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat, wherein the heat protectant is selected to be a modified carbohydrate polymer, comprising a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (i) trialkyl ammonium moieties of formula (I) wherein each R 1 is independently selected from the group consisting of a C1-7 alkyl group and wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer has a Kjeldahl nitrogen content, TKN, corrected for ash and volatiles, of 0.75 to 2.5 wt%; and (ii) hydrophobic substituents each having 16 carbon atoms; where
  • Heat-assisted processes whereby heat is applied to hair fibers (e.g., during heat- assisted styling or drying using blow dryers, hair straighteners (such as flat irons), curling devices, heated comb, heated brush (with or without a rotating drum) are ubiquitous. Such heat-assisted processes; however, can dry out and damage hair. Moreover, improper technique may lead to damager; such as, for example, holding a blow dryer too close to the hair and overdrying the hair, or by engaging hair with a hot tool for too long at a particular spot of the hair.
  • the heat assisted processes may cause moisture to evaporate or be driven from the hair causing the hair to become brittle and more susceptible to cracking.
  • heat styling may cause physical damage to the hair.
  • the hair may retain the styled, but the hair shaft will have been damaged (c)
  • the keratin which is present in all hair as a natural alpha helix, melts, thereby permanently damaging the hair.
  • styling of hair is typically done using tools that exhibit operating temperatures in excess of 150 °C to impart style to the hair above the glass transition.
  • the temperature required to exceed the glass transition temperature is proportional to the hydration level of the hair. The higher the moisture content of the hair, the lower the temperature required to reach the glass transition point for the hair. Accordingly, to result in the lowest possible level of undesired damage to the hair, it would be advantageous to maximize the hydration of the hair during the heat assisted styling process.
  • Greaves al. disclose a process for treating keratin fibers, especially human keratin fibers, in particular the hair, comprising: (i) a step consisting in applying, to said fibers, a) one or more monosaccharides with amine group(s); (ii) a step consisting in applying, to said fibers, b) one or more polysaccharides with amine group(s); (ii’) optionally a drying step; (iii) then a step of heat treatment at a temperature above or equal to 80 °C, in particular at a temperature between 100 °C and 250 °C, preferably with a hair iron; it being understood that the steps (i) and (ii) may be carried out simultaneously, or sequentially, preferably the steps (i) and (ii) are carried out simultaneously and that the drying step (ii’), when it is present, precedes the heat
  • the present invention provides a process for reducing hair damage upon exposure of the hair to heat, comprising: providing a cosmetically acceptable aqueous carrier; selecting a heat protectant, wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat, comprising a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (i) trialkyl ammonium moieties of formula (I) wherein each R 1 is independently selected from the group consisting of a C1-7 alkyl group and wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer has a Kjeldahl nitrogen content, TKN, corrected for ash and volatiles, of 0.75 to 2.5 wt%; and (ii) hydrophobic substituents each having 16 carbon atoms; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises 0.005 to 1.5 wt%, based on weight of the cellulose ether base material, of the hydrophobic substituents; wherein the hydrophobic substituents are randomly distributed across the backbone of the cellulose ether base material; wherein
  • the aqueous thermal protection formulation includes a selected heat protectant, wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat, wherein the heat protectant is selected to be a modified carbohydrate polymer, comprising a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (i) trialkyl ammonium moieties of formula (I) wherein each R 1 is independently selected from the group consisting of a C1-7 alkyl group and wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer has a Kjeldahl nitrogen content, TKN, corrected for ash and volatiles, of 0.75 to 2.5 wt%; and (ii) hydrophobic substituents each having 16 carbon atoms; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises 0.005 to 1.5 wt%, based on weight of the cellulose ether base material, of the hydrophobic substituents; wherein the hydropho
  • molecular weight refers to the weight average molecular weight as measured in a conventional manner with gel permeation chromatography (GPC) and conventional standards, such as polyethylene glycol standards. GPC techniques are discussed in detail in Modern Size Exclusion Chromatography, W. W. Yau, J. J. Kirkland, D. D. Bly; Wiley-Interscience, 1979, and in A Guide to Materials Characterization and Chemical Analysis, J. P. Sibilia; VCH, 1988, p.81- 84.
  • the process for reducing hair (preferably, mammalian hair; more preferably, human hair) damage upon exposure of the hair to heat of the present invention comprises: providing a cosmetically acceptable aqueous carrier; selecting a heat protectant, wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat, wherein the heat protectant is selected to be a modified carbohydrate polymer, comprising a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (i) trialkyl ammonium moieties of formula (I) wherein each R 1 is independently selected from the group consisting of a C1-7 alkyl group (preferably, a C1-4 alkyl group; more preferably, a methyl group and an ethyl group; most preferably, a methyl group) and wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer has a Kjeldahl nitrogen content, TKN, corrected for ash and volatiles, of 0.75 to 2.5 wt% (preferably, 0.8 to 2.2 wt%
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation provided and used in the process of the present invention comprises: 25 to 99.95 wt% (preferably, 50 to 99.9 wt%; more preferably, 75 to 99.5 wt%; most preferably, 80 to 99.3 wt %), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of the cosmetically acceptable aqueous carrier.
  • the aqueous conditioner formulation of the present invention comprises:
  • the cosmetically acceptable carrier comprises water.
  • the water used in the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention is at least one of distilled water and deionized water. More preferably, the water used in the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention is distilled and deionized.
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises a heat protectant. More preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises a heat protectant, wherein the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises 0.1 to 5 wt% (preferably, 0.15 to 2.5 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 2 wt%; most preferably, 0.25 to 1.5 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of a heat protectant.
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises 0.1 to 5 wt% (preferably, 0.15 to 2.5 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 2 wt%; most preferably, 0.25 to 1.5 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of a heat protectant; wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat and wherein the heat protectant is selected to be a modified carbohydrate polymer, comprising a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (i) trialkyl ammonium moieties of formula (I) wherein each R 1 is independently selected from the group consisting of a C1-7 alkyl group (preferably, a C1-4 alkyl group; more preferably, a methyl group and an ethyl group; most preferably, a methyl group) and wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer has a Kjeldahl nitrogen content, TKN, corrected
  • the cellulose ether base material has a weight average molecular weight, Mw, of > 1,000,000 Daltons (preferably, 1,100,000 to 4,000,000 Daltons; more preferably, 1,200,000 to 2,000,000 Daltons; most preferably, 1,300,000 to 1,800,000 Daltons).
  • the cellulose ether base material has a weight average molecular weight, Mw, of > 1,000,000 Daltons (preferably, 1,100,000 to 4,000,000 Daltons; more preferably, 1,200,000 to 2,000,000 Daltons; most preferably, 1,300,000 to 1,800,000 Daltons); wherein the cellulose ether base material is selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl methyl cellulose and mixtures thereof.
  • the cellulose ether base material has a weight average molecular weight, Mw, of > 1,000,000 Daltons (preferably, 1,100,000 to 4,000,000 Daltons; more preferably, 1,200,000 to 2,000,000 Daltons; most preferably, 1,300,000 to 1,800,000 Daltons); wherein the cellulose ether base material is selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose and mixtures thereof.
  • the cellulose ether base material has a weight average molecular weight, Mw, of > 1 ,000,000 Daltons (preferably, 1,100,000 to 4,000,000 Daltons; more preferably, 1,200,000 to 2,000,000 Daltons; most preferably, 1,300,000 to 1,800,000 Daltons); wherein the cellulose ether base material is hydroxyethyl cellulose.
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises a heat protectant
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises 0.1 to 5 wt% (preferably, 0.15 to 2.5 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 2 wt%; most preferably, 0.25 to 1.5 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of a heat protectant; wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat and wherein the heat protectant is selected to be a modified carbohydrate polymer, comprising a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (i) trialkyl ammonium moieties of formula (I), wherein each R 1 is independently selected from the group consisting of a C1-7 alkyl group (preferably, a C1-4 alkyl group; more preferably, a methyl group and an ethyl group; most preferably,
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises a heat protectant, wherein the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises 0.1 to 5 wt% (preferably, 0.15 to 2.5 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 2 wt%; most preferably, 0.25 to 1.5 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of a heat protectant; wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat and wherein the heat protectant is selected to be a modified carbohydrate polymer; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (i) trialkyl ammonium moieties of formula (I), wherein each R 1 is independently selected from the group consisting of a C1-7 alkyl group (preferably, a C1-4 alkyl group; more preferably, a methyl group and an ethyl group; most
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises a heat protectant, wherein the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises 0.1 to 5 wt% (preferably, 0.15 to 2.5 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 2 wt%; most preferably, 0.25 to 1.5 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of a heat protectant; wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat and wherein the heat protectant is selected to be a modified carbohydrate polymer; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (ii) hydrophobic substituents, wherein the hydrophobic substituents comprise an alkyl group having 16 carbon atoms; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises > 0.005 to 1.5 wt% (preferably, 0.1 to 1.1 wt%; more
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises a heat protectant, wherein the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises 0.1 to 5 wt% (preferably, 0.15 to 2.5 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 2 wt%; most preferably, 0.25 to 1.5 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of a heat protectant; wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat and wherein the heat protectant is selected to be a modified carbohydrate polymer; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (ii) hydrophobic substituents, wherein the hydrophobic substituents comprise an alkyl group having 16 carbon atoms bonded to the cellulose ether base material through at least one of an ether linkage (e.g., an ether linkage alone or an ether linkage and
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises a heat protectant, wherein the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises 0.1 to 5 wt% (preferably, 0.15 to 2.5 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 2 wt%; most preferably, 0.25 to 1.5 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of a heat protectant; wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat and wherein the heat protectant is selected to be a modified carbohydrate polymer; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (ii) hydrophobic substituents, wherein the hydrophobic substituents comprise an alkyl group having 16 carbon atoms bonded to the water-soluble cellulose ether base material through at least one of an ether linkage (e.g., an ether linkage alone or an ether linkage (
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises a heat protectant, wherein the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises 0.1 to 5 wt% (preferably, 0.15 to 2.5 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 2 wt%; most preferably, 0.25 to 1.5 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of a heat protectant; wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat and wherein the heat protectant is selected to be a modified carbohydrate polymer; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (ii) hydrophobic substituents, wherein the hydrophobic substituents comprise an alkyl group having 16 carbon atoms bonded to the water-soluble cellulose ether base material through at least one of an ether linkage or an ether linkage and a 2-hydroxypropyl group;
  • n is determined based on the weight average molecular weight, Mw, of the cellulose ether base material; wherein R 4 is an alkyl group having 16 carbon atoms and wherein each R 5 is independently selected from the group consisting of a C1-7 alkyl group (preferably, a C1-4 alkyl group; more preferably, a methyl group and an ethyl group; most preferably, a methyl group); and wherein the cellulose ether base material has a weight average molecular weight, Mw, of > 1,000,000 Daltons (preferably, 1,100,000 to 4,000,000 Daltons; more preferably, 1,200,000 to 2,000,000 Daltons; most preferably, 1,300,000 to 1,800,000 Daltons); and wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises ⁇ 0.001 wt% (preferably, ⁇ 0.0001 wt%; more preferably, ⁇ 0.00001 wt%; most preferably, less than the detectable limit), based on weight of modified carbohydrate polymer, of crosslinking units.
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention is selected from the group consisting of a rinse off hair treatment and a leave in hair treatment. More preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention is a leave in hair treatment.
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention optionally, further comprises at least one additional ingredient selected from the group consisting of a cosmetically acceptable cleansing surfactant; a thickener (e.g., polysaccharides, cellulosic polymers); a soap; a colorant; pH adjusting agent; an antioxidant (e.g., butylated hydroxytoluene); an emollient (polyoxyethylene glycol (C7-20) fatty acid, esters of glycerol — e.g., PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-12 glyceryl laureate, PEG-20 glyceryl oleate); a wax; a foaming agent; an emulsifying agent (e.g.
  • PEG- 100 stearate & glyceryl stearate mixture a colorant; a fragrance; a chelating agent (e.g., disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, citric acid, lactic acid); an antimicrobial agent/preservative (e.g., methylchloroisothiazolinone, phenoxyethanol, methylisothiazolinone, esters of parabenzoic acid, diazolidinyl urea and imidazolidinyl urea, benzoic acid, sorbic acid); a bleaching agent; a lubricating agent; a sensory modifier; a sunscreen additive; a vitamin; a protein/amino acid; a plant extract; a natural ingredient; a bioactive agent; an anti-aging agent; a pigment; an acid; a penetrant; an anti-static agent; an anti-frizz agent; an antidandruff agent; a hair waving/straightening
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention optionally, further comprises at least one additional ingredient selected from the group consisting of an emulsifying agent (e.g. PEG- 100 stearate & glyceryl stearate mixture); an antimicrobial agent/preservative (e.g., methylchloroisothiazolinone, phenoxyethanol, methylisothiazolinone, esters of parabenzoic acid, diazolidinyl urea and imidazolidinyl urea, benzoic acid, sorbic acid); a thickener (e.g., polysaccharides, cellulosic polymers); and a chelating agent (e.g., disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, citric acid, lactic acid).
  • an emulsifying agent e.g. PEG- 100 stearate & glyceryl stearate mixture
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention optionally, further comprises at least one additional ingredient selected from the group consisting of an emulsifying agent mixture of PEG- 100 stearate & glyceryl stearate mixture; a hydroxyethyl cellulose polymer thickener; cetearyl alcohol emollient; tetrasodium ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid chelating agent and a mixture of phenoxyethanol and methylisothiazolinone preservative.
  • an emulsifying agent mixture of PEG- 100 stearate & glyceryl stearate mixture a hydroxyethyl cellulose polymer thickener
  • cetearyl alcohol emollient cetearyl alcohol emollient
  • tetrasodium ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid chelating agent a mixture of phenoxyethanol and methylisothiazolinone preservative.
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention optionally further comprises an emulsifying agent. More preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention further comprises 0.01 to 80 wt% (more preferably, 0.1 to 5 wt%; still more preferably, 0.5 to 2 wt%, most preferably, 0.75 to 1.25 wt %), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of an emulsifying agent.
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention further comprises 0.01 to 80 wt% (more preferably, 0.1 to 5 wt%; still more preferably, 0.5 to 2 wt%, most preferably, 0.75 to 1.25 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of an emulsifying agent; wherein the aqueous conditioner formulation is selected from the group consisting of a leave on hair conditioner and a rinse off hair conditioner; and wherein the emulsifying agent comprises a mixture of PET- 100 stearate and glyceryl stearate.
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention optionally further comprises a thickener. More preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention further comprises a thickener, wherein the thickener is selected to increase the viscosity of the aqueous conditioner formulation, preferably without substantially modifying the other properties of the personal care composition.
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention further comprises a thickener, wherein the thickener is selected to increase the viscosity of the personal care composition, preferably without substantially modifying the other properties of the personal care composition and wherein the thickener accounts for 0 to 5.0 wt% (preferably, 0.1 to 5.0 wt %; more preferably, 0.2 to 2.5 wt %; most preferably, 0.5 to 2.0 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation.
  • Preferred thickeners include polysaccharides and cellulosic polymers.
  • the thickener is a hydroxyethyl cellulose polymer.
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention optionally further comprises a chelating agent. More preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention further comprises 0.001 to 0.75 wt% (preferably, 0.03 to 0.25 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of a chelating agent, wherein the chelating agent is selected from the group consisting of disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), tetrasodium EDTA, citric acid, lactic acid and mixtures thereof. Most preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention further comprises 0.001 to 0.75 wt%
  • aqueous thermal protectant formulation (preferably, 0.03 to 0.25 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of a chelating agent, wherein the chelating agent, wherein the chelating agent includes tetrasodium EDTA.
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention optionally further comprises an antimicrobial agent/preservative. More preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention further comprises 0.05 to 1.25 wt% (preferably, 0.1 to 1 wt%; more preferably, 0.25 to 0.75 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of an antimicrobial agent/preservative; wherein the antimicrobial/preservative is selected from the group consisting of phenoxyethanol, benzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, sodium benzoate, DMDM hydantoin, 2-ethylhexyl glyceryl ether, isothiazolinone (e.g., methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone) and mixtures thereof.
  • an antimicrobial agent/preservative e.g., 0.05 to 1.25 wt% (preferably
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention optionally further comprises 0.05 to 1.25 wt% (preferably, 0.1 to 1 wt%; more preferably, 0.25 to 0.75 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of an antimicrobial agent/preservative; wherein the antimicrobial/preservative is a mixture of phenoxyethanol and an isothiazolinone (more preferably, wherein the antimicrobial/preservative is a mixture of phenoxyethanol and methylisothiazolinone) .
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention contains ⁇ detectable limit of monosaccharide having amine groups.
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention contains ⁇ detectable limit of C3-5 monosaccharide.
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention contains ⁇ detectable limit of sugar.
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention contains ⁇ detectable limit of soy protein.
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention contains ⁇ detectable limit of hydrolyzed silk.
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention contains ⁇ detectable limit of sugar.
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention contains ⁇ 0.1 wt% (preferably, ⁇ 0.01 wt%; more preferably, ⁇ 0.001 wt%; most preferably, ⁇ detectable limit) , of hydrophobically modified poly(acrylamido-N-propyltrimethylammonium chloride.
  • the provided heat protectant formulation, the cosmetically acceptable aqueous carrier and any additional ingredients are combined using known processing techniques to provide the aqueous thermal protectant formulation.
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation is applied to the hair using well known techniques. More preferably, in the process for reducing hair (preferably, mammalian hair; more preferably, human hair) damage upon exposure of the hair to heat of the present invention, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation is applied to the hair, wherein 0.01 g to 5 g of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation is applied per g of hair.
  • heat generating hair care appliances typically fall into one of two major categories, namely (1) heat generating hair care appliances that are used preferably on wet hair (e.g., hair dryer) and (2) heat generating hair care appliances used preferably on dry hair (e.g., flat ironing/curling; hat rollers).
  • Hot air hair care appliances that are designed for and typically used on wet hair are sometimes referred to as hot air hair care appliances.
  • hot air hair care appliances include hair dryers and hot air hair stylers.
  • the typical hair dryer is designed to direct hot air towards the hair to facilitate drying of the hair. In these hair dryers, the air is directed through appropriate orifices and accelerated by a fan. The air expelled by such hair dryers may be heated, but example, through use of a resistive heater.
  • Hair dryers may incorporate a hood, wherein a major portion of the hair is covered by the hood. Hair dryers typically operate by delivering hot air temperatures of 50 to 100 °C.
  • Hot air stylers typically direct hot air through an attachment designed for combing or otherwise manipulating the hair.
  • Hot air stylers may deliver hot air temperatures of up to 130 °C.
  • Heat generating appliances that are designed for and typically used on dry hare are sometimes referred to as hot surface hair care appliances.
  • hot surface hair care appliances may be designed for hair curling and/or hair straightening.
  • Hot surface hair care appliances typically rely on resistive heating wherein heat is transported to the hair via direct contact with the appliance rather than using hot air. The heat transfer is typically effectuated by bringing the hair into contact with a metallic or ceramic surface of the hot surface hair care appliance.
  • Hot surface hair care appliances are typically not used to dry the hair. Rather, hot surface hair care appliances are implemented to change the style of the hair, typically either to produce curls in the hair or to straighten the hair.
  • the surfaces of hot surface hair care appliances designed to contact and transfer heat to hair typically achieve temperatures of 130 to 300 °C.
  • the process for reducing hair (preferably, mammal hair; more preferably, human hair) damage upon exposure of the hair to heat of the present invention comprises exposing the hair to heat at a temperature of 50 to 300 °C (preferably, 80 to 280 °C; more preferably, 90 to 275 °C; most preferably, 100 to 250 °C) using the heat generating hair care appliance (wherein the heat generating hair care appliance is selected from the group consisting of at least one of a hot air hair care appliance (e.g., hair dryer, hot air hair styler) and a hot surface hair care appliance (e.g., hot curlers, flat iron and a curling iron)) (e.g., for drying or styling hair).
  • a hot air hair care appliance e.g., hair dryer, hot air hair styler
  • a hot surface hair care appliance e.g., hot curlers, flat iron and a curling iron
  • the process for reducing hair (preferably, mammal hair; more preferably, human hair) damage upon exposure of the hair to heat of the present invention comprises exposing the hair to heat at a temperature of 50 to 300 °C (preferably, 80 to 280 °C; more preferably, 90 to 275 °C; most preferably, 100 to 250 °C) using the heat generating hair care appliance (wherein the heat generating hair care appliance is selected from the group consisting of at least one of a hot air hair care appliance (e.g., hair dryer, hot air hair styler) and a hot surface hair care appliance (e.g., hot curlers, flat iron and a curling iron)) for 1 to 40 minutes (e.g., for drying or styling hair).
  • a hot air hair care appliance e.g., hair dryer, hot air hair styler
  • a hot surface hair care appliance e.g., hot curlers, flat iron and a curling iron
  • the process for reducing hair (preferably, mammal hair; more preferably, human hair) damage upon exposure of the hair to heat of the present invention comprises exposing the hair to heat at a temperature of 50 to 300 °C (preferably, 80 to 280 °C; more preferably, 90 to 275 °C; most preferably, 100 to 250 °C) using the heat generating hair care appliance (wherein the heat generating hair care appliance is selected from the group consisting of at least one of a hot air hair care appliance (e.g., hair dryer, hot air hair styler) and a hot surface hair care appliance (e.g., hot curlers, flat iron and a curling iron)) for 2 to 40 minutes (e.g., for drying or styling hair); wherein the hair is exposed to heat using a hot air hair care appliance for 1 to 20 minutes for drying the hair; and then wherein the hair is exposed to heat using a hot surface hair care appliance for 1 to 20 minutes for styling the hair.
  • a hot air hair care appliance e.g., hair dryer,
  • the process for reducing hair optionally further comprises rinsing the hair with water. More preferably, in the process for reducing hair (preferably, mammalian hair; more preferably, human hair) damage upon exposure of the hair to heat of the present invention, optionally further comprises rinsing the hair with water before applying the aqueous protectant formulation to the hair (preferably, wherein the hair is rinsed with water 30 seconds to 20 minutes (more preferably, 30 seconds to 5 minutes)).
  • the process for reducing hair optionally further comprises at least one of combing and brushing the hair. More preferably, in the process for reducing hair (preferably, mammalian hair; more preferably, human hair) damage upon exposure of the hair to heat of the present invention, optionally further comprises at least one of combing and brushing the hair after application of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation (preferably, wherein the hair is combed and/or brushed before, during and/or after exposing the hair to heat from the heat generating hair care appliance).
  • the aqueous thermal protectant formulation preferably, wherein the hair is combed and/or brushed before, during and/or after exposing the hair to heat from the heat generating hair care appliance.
  • thermocouple was connected to a J-KEM controller and heating mantle.
  • the flask While stirring the flask contents, the flask was slowly purged with nitrogen for one hour to remove any entrained oxygen. A nitrogen flow rate of about 1 bubble per second was used. After the nitrogen purge was completed, a 25% aqueous sodium hydroxide solution (9.60 g) was added to the flask contents through the serum cap using a plastic syringe with continued stirring under nitrogen. The flask contents were then allowed to stir for 30 minutes under nitrogen.
  • a 70% aqueous glycidyl trimethylammonium chloride (60.48 g, available from QUAB Chemicals under the trade name QUAB ® 151) was then added to the flask contents dropwise over a few minutes with stirring under nitrogen. When the addition was complete, the flask contents were stirred for 5 minutes, then heat was applied to the flask contents using the J-KEM controller. The temperature set point was 55 °C, and the flask contents were heated at 55 °C for 1.5 hours while stirring under nitrogen.
  • the heat protectant was washed in the Buchner funnel once each with the following: a mixture of 2-propanol (656 g) and deionized water (144 g); a mixture of 2-propanol (720 g) and deionized water (80 g); and 2-propanol (800 g), 40 % glyoxal (1.76 g) and glacial acetic acid (0.60 g).
  • the heat protectant was briefly air dried and dried overnight in vacuo at 50 °C.
  • the heat protectant was manually ground using a mortar & pestle and screened through a #30 mesh US standard sieve to give 100.22 g of product.
  • the heat protectant had a volatiles content of 4.41 %, an ash content of 2.70 % (as sodium acetate) and a Kjeldahl nitrogen content of 1.844%.
  • Hair tresses (2 g, Slightly Bleached Caucasian available from International Hair Importers) were wetted for 30 seconds in 37 °C distilled water, then 1.5 g of a 9 wt% sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) solution was massaged into the hair before rinsing with water flowing at 0.4 L/min for 30 seconds; detangled with a brush; and then given a final rinse with water flowing at 0.4 L/min for 10 seconds.
  • SLES sodium laureth sulfate
  • the flat iron was preheated to 232 °C. Then the tresses were treated ten times for ten seconds each with the flat iron. After that, the tresses were washed with 9 wt% SLES solution, and this hair tress heat treatment and washing was repeated three times before performing the DSC studies below.
  • Samples were prepared from the hair tresses treated according to each of Comparative Examples C1-C4 and Example 1 by isolating at least two different locks of hair from each tress and trimming them into small ( ⁇ 2 mm long) pieces using clippers. The entire length of the chosen hair locks was cut up and randomly distributed on weighing paper to average any difference in hair properties along the length of the tress. A 10 mg sample was then taken from each pile of small hair pieces using a tweezers. The samples were placed into separate 40 pL stainless steel pan (Perkin-Elmer part number 0319-0218) and distributed evenly on the bottom of the pan.
  • each pan was added 30 pL of deionized water using a pipette, which plasticizes the cuticle and lowers the hair denaturation temperature below the decomposition temperature.
  • the pans were then press-sealed with a Viton O-ring and a stainless steel lid and weight for total starting mass.
  • the sealed pans were allowed to sit for 12 hours at 25 °C.
  • the hair samples were then analyzed by a Differential Scanning Calorimeter (DSC) paired with a Refrigerated Cooling System (RCS90) unit.
  • DSC Differential Scanning Calorimeter
  • RCS90 Refrigerated Cooling System
  • the hair samples were analyzed by equilibrating at 40 °C then heating the samples to 200 °C at a 10 °C per minute temperature ramp rate. During the analysis, the cell flow rate was 25 mL per minute of nitrogen. Instrumental software (TRIOS) was used to determine both the denaturation temperature and the denaturation enthalpy. The denaturation temperature was determined as the peak temperature of the endothermic transition and the denaturation enthalpy was determined by integrating the endothermic transition. The peak temperature from the respect of DSC curves are reported in TABLE 2. The denaturation enthalpy for the hair samples are also reported in TABLE 2.
  • TRIOS Instrumental software

Abstract

A process for reducing hair damage upon exposure to heat is provided, including: providing aqueous carrier; selecting heat protectant, wherein heat protectant is selected for its ability to impart thermal protection to hair and to be modified carbohydrate polymer, comprising cellulose ether base material functionalized with trialkyl ammonium moieties, having Kjeldahl nitrogen content of 0.75 to 2.5 wt%; and hydrophobic substituents having 16 carbon atoms; providing the selected heat protectant; combining the cosmetically acceptable aqueous carrier and the heat protectant to form aqueous thermal protectant formulation; wherein the aqueous thermal protectant formulation contains 0.1 to 5 wt%, based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of the heat protectant; providing hair; applying the aqueous thermal protectant formulation to hair; providing heat generating hair care appliance; exposing hair to heat at 50 to 300 °C using the heat generating hair care appliance for 1 to 30 minutes.

Description

PROCESS FOR REDUCING HATR DAMAGE UPON EXPOSURE TO HEAT [0001] The present invention relates to a process for reducing hair damage upon exposure of the hair to heat. In particular, the present invention relates to a process for reducing hair damage upon exposure of the hair to heat, comprising: providing a cosmetically acceptable aqueous carrier; selecting a heat protectant, wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat, wherein the heat protectant is selected to be a modified carbohydrate polymer, comprising a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (i) trialkyl ammonium moieties of formula (I)
Figure imgf000002_0001
wherein each R1 is independently selected from the group consisting of a C1-7 alkyl group and wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer has a Kjeldahl nitrogen content, TKN, corrected for ash and volatiles, of 0.75 to 2.5 wt%; and (ii) hydrophobic substituents each having 16 carbon atoms; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises 0.005 to 1.5 wt%, based on weight of the cellulose ether base material, of the hydrophobic substituents; wherein the hydrophobic substituents are randomly distributed across the backbone of the cellulose ether base material; wherein the cellulose ether base material has a weight average molecular weight, Mw, of > 1,000,000 Daltons; and wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises < 0.001 wt%, based on weight of modified carbohydrate polymer, of crosslinking units; providing the selected heat protectant; combining the cosmetically acceptable aqueous carrier and the heat protectant to form an aqueous thermal protectant formulation; wherein the aqueous thermal protectant formulation contains 0.1 to 5 wt%, based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of the heat protectant; providing a hair; applying the aqueous thermal protectant formulation to the hair; providing a heat generating hair care appliance; and exposing the hair to heat at a temperature of 50 to 300 °C using the heat generating hair care appliance for 1 to 30 minutes.
[0002] Heat-assisted processes whereby heat is applied to hair fibers (e.g., during heat- assisted styling or drying using blow dryers, hair straighteners (such as flat irons), curling devices, heated comb, heated brush (with or without a rotating drum) are ubiquitous. Such heat-assisted processes; however, can dry out and damage hair. Moreover, improper technique may lead to damager; such as, for example, holding a blow dryer too close to the hair and overdrying the hair, or by engaging hair with a hot tool for too long at a particular spot of the hair. The heat assisted processes may cause moisture to evaporate or be driven from the hair causing the hair to become brittle and more susceptible to cracking. In addition, heat styling may cause physical damage to the hair. For example, by raising the cuticles and/or creating blisters on individual hair fibers, which may lead to causing increased friction between hair fibers. The increased friction between hair fibers make combing more difficult requiring more force to comb through the hair. The application of increased combing force may in turn wear the outer surface of the hair leading to cracks and breaks in the hair. For many years, researchers believed that human hair would have similar temperature based properties to wool as both are composed of the keratin protein. Recent studies have revealed that human hair exhibits the following characteristics in response to heating (a) When exposed to heat at < 150 °C, loosely bound water and tightly bound water is lost or evaporated from the human hair (b) When exposed to heat at 160 °C to 175 °C, human hair undergoes a glass transition phase; wherein the hair begins to flow as would hot glass. At the glass transition temperature hair may undergo plastic deformation. Normally hydrated hair may elastically stretch and return back to its original length. Hence, normally hydrated hair exhibits temporary plasticity which is why styles like curls, and twist outs/knot outs can occur. However, when treated above the glass transition temperature, the plasticity of hair is not temporary. Upon cooling, the hair may retain the styled, but the hair shaft will have been damaged (c) When exposed to heat at 215 °C to 235 °C, the keratin, which is present in all hair as a natural alpha helix, melts, thereby permanently damaging the hair. Note that styling of hair is typically done using tools that exhibit operating temperatures in excess of 150 °C to impart style to the hair above the glass transition. When using heat to style hair, the temperature required to exceed the glass transition temperature is proportional to the hydration level of the hair. The higher the moisture content of the hair, the lower the temperature required to reach the glass transition point for the hair. Accordingly, to result in the lowest possible level of undesired damage to the hair, it would be advantageous to maximize the hydration of the hair during the heat assisted styling process.
[0003] One process for treating keratin fibers is described by Greaves al. in WO 2019043032. Greaves et al. disclose a process for treating keratin fibers, especially human keratin fibers, in particular the hair, comprising: (i) a step consisting in applying, to said fibers, a) one or more monosaccharides with amine group(s); (ii) a step consisting in applying, to said fibers, b) one or more polysaccharides with amine group(s); (ii’) optionally a drying step; (iii) then a step of heat treatment at a temperature above or equal to 80 °C, in particular at a temperature between 100 °C and 250 °C, preferably with a hair iron; it being understood that the steps (i) and (ii) may be carried out simultaneously, or sequentially, preferably the steps (i) and (ii) are carried out simultaneously and that the drying step (ii’), when it is present, precedes the heat treatment step and follows the steps (i) and (ii).
[0004] Notwithstanding, there remains a need for processes for reducing hair damage upon exposure of heat to the hair.
[0005] The present invention provides a process for reducing hair damage upon exposure of the hair to heat, comprising: providing a cosmetically acceptable aqueous carrier; selecting a heat protectant, wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat, comprising a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (i) trialkyl ammonium moieties of formula (I)
Figure imgf000004_0001
wherein each R1 is independently selected from the group consisting of a C1-7 alkyl group and wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer has a Kjeldahl nitrogen content, TKN, corrected for ash and volatiles, of 0.75 to 2.5 wt%; and (ii) hydrophobic substituents each having 16 carbon atoms; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises 0.005 to 1.5 wt%, based on weight of the cellulose ether base material, of the hydrophobic substituents; wherein the hydrophobic substituents are randomly distributed across the backbone of the cellulose ether base material; wherein the cellulose ether base material has a weight average molecular weight, Mw, of > 1,000,000 Daltons; and wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises < 0.001 wt%, based on weight of modified carbohydrate polymer, of crosslinking units; providing the selected heat protectant; combining the cosmetically acceptable aqueous carrier and the heat protectant to form an aqueous thermal protectant formulation; wherein the aqueous thermal protectant formulation contains 0.1 to 5 wt%, based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of the heat protectant; providing a hair; applying the aqueous thermal protectant formulation to the hair; providing a heat generating hair care appliance; and exposing the hair to heat at a temperature of 50 to 300 °C using the heat generating hair care appliance for 1 to 30 minutes. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0006] We have surprisingly found that hair treated with an aqueous thermal protectant formulation of the present invention before exposure to heat; wherein the aqueous thermal protection formulation includes a selected heat protectant, wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat, wherein the heat protectant is selected to be a modified carbohydrate polymer, comprising a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (i) trialkyl ammonium moieties of formula (I)
Figure imgf000005_0001
wherein each R1 is independently selected from the group consisting of a C1-7 alkyl group and wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer has a Kjeldahl nitrogen content, TKN, corrected for ash and volatiles, of 0.75 to 2.5 wt%; and (ii) hydrophobic substituents each having 16 carbon atoms; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises 0.005 to 1.5 wt%, based on weight of the cellulose ether base material, of the hydrophobic substituents; wherein the hydrophobic substituents are randomly distributed across the backbone of the cellulose ether base material; wherein the cellulose ether base material has a weight average molecular weight, Mw, of > 1,000,000 Daltons; and wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises < 0.001 wt%, based on weight of modified carbohydrate polymer, of crosslinking units; the treated hair exhibits at least one of a higher denaturation temperature than hair similarly exposed to heat but without application of the aqueous protectant formulation and a higher denaturation enthalpy than hair similarly exposed to heat but without application of the aqueous protectant formulation.
[0007] Unless otherwise indicated, ratios, percentages, parts, and the like are by weight. [0008] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the phrase "molecular weight" or Mw refers to the weight average molecular weight as measured in a conventional manner with gel permeation chromatography (GPC) and conventional standards, such as polyethylene glycol standards. GPC techniques are discussed in detail in Modern Size Exclusion Chromatography, W. W. Yau, J. J. Kirkland, D. D. Bly; Wiley-Interscience, 1979, and in A Guide to Materials Characterization and Chemical Analysis, J. P. Sibilia; VCH, 1988, p.81- 84. Molecular weights are reported herein in units of Daltons, or equivalently, g/mol. [0009] The term "cosmetically acceptable" as used herein and in the appended claims refers to ingredients typically used in personal care compositions, and is intended to underscore that materials that are toxic when present in the amounts typically found in personal care compositions are not contemplated as part of the present invention.
[0010] Preferably, the process for reducing hair (preferably, mammalian hair; more preferably, human hair) damage upon exposure of the hair to heat of the present invention, comprises: providing a cosmetically acceptable aqueous carrier; selecting a heat protectant, wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat, wherein the heat protectant is selected to be a modified carbohydrate polymer, comprising a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (i) trialkyl ammonium moieties of formula (I)
Figure imgf000006_0001
wherein each R1 is independently selected from the group consisting of a C1-7 alkyl group (preferably, a C1-4 alkyl group; more preferably, a methyl group and an ethyl group; most preferably, a methyl group) and wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer has a Kjeldahl nitrogen content, TKN, corrected for ash and volatiles, of 0.75 to 2.5 wt% (preferably, 0.8 to 2.2 wt%; more preferably, 1.5 to 2.1 wt%; most preferably, 1.7 to 1.9 wt%); and (ii) hydrophobic substituents each having 16 carbon atoms; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises > 0.005 to 1.5 wt% (preferably, 0.1 to 1.1 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 0.7; still more preferably, 0.3 to < 0.5 wt%; most preferably, 0.4 to 0.46 wt%), based on weight of the cellulose ether base material, of the hydrophobic substituents; wherein the hydrophobic substituents are randomly distributed across the backbone of the cellulose ether base material; wherein the cellulose ether base material has a weight average molecular weight, Mw, of > 1,000,000 Daltons (preferably, 1,100,000 to 4,000,000 Daltons; more preferably, 1,200,000 to 2,000,000 Daltons; most preferably, 1,300,000 to 1,800,000 Daltons); and wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises < 0.001 wt% (preferably, < 0.0001 wt%; more preferably, < 0.00001 wt%; most preferably, less than the detectable limit), based on weight of modified carbohydrate polymer, of crosslinking units; providing the selected heat protectant; combining the cosmetically acceptable aqueous carrier and the heat protectant to form an aqueous thermal protectant formulation (preferably, wherein the aqueous thermal protectant formulation comprises 25 to 99.95 wt% (preferably, 50 to 99.9 wt%; more preferably, 75 to 99.5 wt%; most preferably, 80 to 99.3 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of the cosmetically acceptable aqueous carrier; and 0.1 to 5 wt% (preferably, 0.15 to 2.5 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 2 wt%; most preferably, 0.25 to 1.5 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of the heat protectant); providing a hair; applying the aqueous thermal protectant formulation to the hair (preferably, applying from 0.01 g to 5 g of the aqueous hair care formulation per g of hair); optionally, rinsing the hair with water (preferably, wherein the hair is rinsed before applying the aqueous protectant formulation to the hair); optionally, drying the rinsed hair by at least one of toweling and pressing hair to remove excess water (preferably, wherein the hair is dried by at least one of toweling and pressing hair to remove excess water before applying the aqueous protectant formulation to the hair); optionally, at least one of combing and brushing the hair following application of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation (preferably, wherein the hair is combed and/or brushed before, during and/or after exposing the hair to heat from the heat generating hair care appliance); providing a heat generating hair care appliance (e.g., flat ironing / curling; setting hair in curlers and heating; curling with a curling iron; and hot rollers)(a hair styling appliance, wherein the hair styling appliance is selected from the group consisting of at least one of a hair dryer, a hot air hair styler and a hair curler); exposing the hair to heat at a temperature of 50 to 300 °C (preferably, 80 to 280 °C; more preferably, 90 to 275 °C; most preferably, 100 to 250 °C) using the heat generating hair care appliance (wherein the heat generating hair care appliance is selected from the group consisting of at least one of a hot air hair care appliance (e.g., hair dryer, hot air hair styler) and a hot surface hair care appliance (e.g., hot curlers, flat iron and a curling iron)) for 1 to 30 minutes (e.g., for drying or styling hair) (preferably, providing a hot air hair care appliance and a hot surface hair care appliance for 1 to 20 minutes for drying the hair followed by treatment of the hair with a hot surface hair care appliance for 1 to 20 minutes for styling the hair)(preferably, wherein the hair to which the aqueous protectant formulation has been applied exhibits at least one of a higher denaturation temperature than hair similarly exposed to heat but without application of the aqueous protectant formulation and a higher denaturation enthalpy than hair similarly exposed to heat but without application of the aqueous protectant formulation) (more preferably, wherein the hair to which the aqueous protectant formulation has been applied exhibits a higher denaturation temperature and a higher denaturation enthalpy than hair similarly exposed to heat but without application of the aqueous protectant formulation). [0011] Preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention, comprises a cosmetically acceptable aqueous carrier.
More preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation provided and used in the process of the present invention, comprises: 25 to 99.95 wt% (preferably, 50 to 99.9 wt%; more preferably, 75 to 99.5 wt%; most preferably, 80 to 99.3 wt %), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of the cosmetically acceptable aqueous carrier. Most preferably, the aqueous conditioner formulation of the present invention, comprises:
25 to 99.95 wt% (preferably, 50 to 99.9 wt%; more preferably, 75 to 99.5 wt%; most preferably, 80 to 99.3 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of the cosmetically acceptable aqueous carrier; wherein the cosmetically acceptable carrier comprises water.
[0012] Preferably, the water used in the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention is at least one of distilled water and deionized water. More preferably, the water used in the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention is distilled and deionized.
[0013] Preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises a heat protectant. More preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises a heat protectant, wherein the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises 0.1 to 5 wt% (preferably, 0.15 to 2.5 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 2 wt%; most preferably, 0.25 to 1.5 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of a heat protectant. Most preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises 0.1 to 5 wt% (preferably, 0.15 to 2.5 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 2 wt%; most preferably, 0.25 to 1.5 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of a heat protectant; wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat and wherein the heat protectant is selected to be a modified carbohydrate polymer, comprising a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (i) trialkyl ammonium moieties of formula (I)
Figure imgf000008_0001
wherein each R1 is independently selected from the group consisting of a C1-7 alkyl group (preferably, a C1-4 alkyl group; more preferably, a methyl group and an ethyl group; most preferably, a methyl group) and wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer has a Kjeldahl nitrogen content, TKN, corrected for ash and volatiles, of 0.75 to 2.5 wt% (preferably, 0.8 to 2.2 wt%; more preferably, 1.5 to 2.1 wt%; most preferably, 1.7 to 1.9 wt%); and (ii) hydrophobic substituents, wherein the hydrophobic substituents comprise an alkyl group having 16 carbon atoms; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises > 0.005 to 1.5 wt% (preferably, 0.1 to 1.1 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 0.7; still more preferably, 0.3 to < 0.5 wt%; most preferably, 0.4 to 0.46 wt%), based on weight of the cellulose ether base material, of the hydrophobic substituents; wherein the hydrophobic substituents are randomly distributed across the backbone of the cellulose ether base material; wherein the cellulose ether base material has a weight average molecular weight, Mw, of > 1,000,000 Daltons (preferably, 1,100,000 to 4,000,000 Daltons; more preferably, 1,200,000 to 2,000,000 Daltons; most preferably, 1,300,000 to 1,800,000 Daltons); and wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises < 0.001 wt% (preferably, < 0.0001 wt%; more preferably, < 0.00001 wt%; most preferably, less than the detectable limit), based on weight of modified carbohydrate polymer, of crosslinking units.
[0014] Preferably, the cellulose ether base material has a weight average molecular weight, Mw, of > 1,000,000 Daltons (preferably, 1,100,000 to 4,000,000 Daltons; more preferably, 1,200,000 to 2,000,000 Daltons; most preferably, 1,300,000 to 1,800,000 Daltons). More preferably, the cellulose ether base material has a weight average molecular weight, Mw, of > 1,000,000 Daltons (preferably, 1,100,000 to 4,000,000 Daltons; more preferably, 1,200,000 to 2,000,000 Daltons; most preferably, 1,300,000 to 1,800,000 Daltons); wherein the cellulose ether base material is selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl methyl cellulose and mixtures thereof. Still more preferably, the cellulose ether base material has a weight average molecular weight, Mw, of > 1,000,000 Daltons (preferably, 1,100,000 to 4,000,000 Daltons; more preferably, 1,200,000 to 2,000,000 Daltons; most preferably, 1,300,000 to 1,800,000 Daltons); wherein the cellulose ether base material is selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose and mixtures thereof. Most preferably, the cellulose ether base material has a weight average molecular weight, Mw, of > 1 ,000,000 Daltons (preferably, 1,100,000 to 4,000,000 Daltons; more preferably, 1,200,000 to 2,000,000 Daltons; most preferably, 1,300,000 to 1,800,000 Daltons); wherein the cellulose ether base material is hydroxyethyl cellulose.
[0015] Preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises a heat protectant, wherein the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises 0.1 to 5 wt% (preferably, 0.15 to 2.5 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 2 wt%; most preferably, 0.25 to 1.5 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of a heat protectant; wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat and wherein the heat protectant is selected to be a modified carbohydrate polymer, comprising a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (i) trialkyl ammonium moieties of formula (I), wherein each R1 is independently selected from the group consisting of a C1-7 alkyl group (preferably, a C1-4 alkyl group; more preferably, a methyl group and an ethyl group; most preferably, a methyl group) and wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer has a Kjeldahl nitrogen content corrected for ash and volatiles, TKN, of 0.75 to 2.5 wt% (preferably, 0.8 to 2.2 wt%; more preferably, 1.5 to 2.1 wt%; most preferably, 1.7 to 1.9 wt%). More preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises a heat protectant, wherein the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises 0.1 to 5 wt% (preferably, 0.15 to 2.5 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 2 wt%; most preferably, 0.25 to 1.5 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of a heat protectant; wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat and wherein the heat protectant is selected to be a modified carbohydrate polymer; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (i) trialkyl ammonium moieties of formula (I), wherein each R1 is independently selected from the group consisting of a C1-7 alkyl group (preferably, a C1-4 alkyl group; more preferably, a methyl group and an ethyl group; most preferably, a methyl group); wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer has a Kjeldahl nitrogen content corrected for ash and volatiles, TKN, of 0.75 to 2.5 wt% (preferably, 0.8 to 2.2 wt%; more preferably, 1.5 to 2.1 wt%; most preferably, 1.7 to 1.9 wt%); and wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer contains < 0.1 moles (preferably, < 0.01 moles; more preferably, < 0.001 moles; most preferably, less than a detectable limit) of trialkyl ammonium moieties having formal (II) per mole of the cellulose ether base material
Figure imgf000011_0001
wherein each R2 is independently selected from a methyl group and an ethyl group and wherein R3 is selected from a Cx-30 alkyl group.
[0016] Preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises a heat protectant, wherein the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises 0.1 to 5 wt% (preferably, 0.15 to 2.5 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 2 wt%; most preferably, 0.25 to 1.5 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of a heat protectant; wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat and wherein the heat protectant is selected to be a modified carbohydrate polymer; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (ii) hydrophobic substituents, wherein the hydrophobic substituents comprise an alkyl group having 16 carbon atoms; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises > 0.005 to 1.5 wt% (preferably, 0.1 to 1.1 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 0.7; still more preferably, 0.3 to < 0.5 wt%; most preferably, 0.4 to 0.46 wt%), based on weight of the cellulose ether base material, of the hydrophobic substituents. More preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises a heat protectant, wherein the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises 0.1 to 5 wt% (preferably, 0.15 to 2.5 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 2 wt%; most preferably, 0.25 to 1.5 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of a heat protectant; wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat and wherein the heat protectant is selected to be a modified carbohydrate polymer; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (ii) hydrophobic substituents, wherein the hydrophobic substituents comprise an alkyl group having 16 carbon atoms bonded to the cellulose ether base material through at least one of an ether linkage (e.g., an ether linkage alone or an ether linkage and a 2-hydroxypropyl group) and an ester linkage; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises > 0.005 to 1.5 wt% (preferably, 0.1 to 1.1 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 0.7; still more preferably, 0.3 to < 0.5 wt%; most preferably, 0.4 to 0.46 wt%), based on weight of the cellulose ether base material, of the hydrophobic substituents. Still more preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises a heat protectant, wherein the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises 0.1 to 5 wt% (preferably, 0.15 to 2.5 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 2 wt%; most preferably, 0.25 to 1.5 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of a heat protectant; wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat and wherein the heat protectant is selected to be a modified carbohydrate polymer; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (ii) hydrophobic substituents, wherein the hydrophobic substituents comprise an alkyl group having 16 carbon atoms bonded to the water-soluble cellulose ether base material through at least one of an ether linkage (e.g., an ether linkage alone or an ether linkage and a 2-hydroxypropyl group) and an ester linkage; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises > 0.005 to 1.5 wt% (preferably, 0.1 to 1.1 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 0.7; still more preferably, 0.3 to < 0.5 wt%; most preferably, 0.4 to 0.46 wt%), based on weight of the cellulose ether base material, of the hydrophobic substituents; and wherein the hydrophobic groups are randomly distributed across the backbone of the cellulose ether base material. Most preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises a heat protectant, wherein the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention comprises 0.1 to 5 wt% (preferably, 0.15 to 2.5 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 2 wt%; most preferably, 0.25 to 1.5 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of a heat protectant; wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat and wherein the heat protectant is selected to be a modified carbohydrate polymer; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises a cellulose ether base material functionalized with (ii) hydrophobic substituents, wherein the hydrophobic substituents comprise an alkyl group having 16 carbon atoms bonded to the water-soluble cellulose ether base material through at least one of an ether linkage or an ether linkage and a 2-hydroxypropyl group; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises > 0.005 to 1.5 wt% (preferably, 0.1 to 1.1 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 0.7; still more preferably, 0.3 to < 0.5 wt%; most preferably, 0.4 to 0.46 wt%), based on weight of the cellulose ether base material, of the hydrophobic substituents; and wherein the hydrophobic groups are randomly distributed across the backbone of the cellulose ether base material.
Figure imgf000013_0001
wherein n is determined based on the weight average molecular weight, Mw, of the cellulose ether base material; wherein R4 is an alkyl group having 16 carbon atoms and wherein each R5 is independently selected from the group consisting of a C1-7 alkyl group (preferably, a C1-4 alkyl group; more preferably, a methyl group and an ethyl group; most preferably, a methyl group); and wherein the cellulose ether base material has a weight average molecular weight, Mw, of > 1,000,000 Daltons (preferably, 1,100,000 to 4,000,000 Daltons; more preferably, 1,200,000 to 2,000,000 Daltons; most preferably, 1,300,000 to 1,800,000 Daltons); and wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises < 0.001 wt% (preferably, < 0.0001 wt%; more preferably, < 0.00001 wt%; most preferably, less than the detectable limit), based on weight of modified carbohydrate polymer, of crosslinking units.
[0018] Preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention is selected from the group consisting of a rinse off hair treatment and a leave in hair treatment. More preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention is a leave in hair treatment.
[0019] Preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention, optionally, further comprises at least one additional ingredient selected from the group consisting of a cosmetically acceptable cleansing surfactant; a thickener (e.g., polysaccharides, cellulosic polymers); a soap; a colorant; pH adjusting agent; an antioxidant (e.g., butylated hydroxytoluene); an emollient (polyoxyethylene glycol (C7-20) fatty acid, esters of glycerol — e.g., PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-12 glyceryl laureate, PEG-20 glyceryl oleate); a wax; a foaming agent; an emulsifying agent (e.g. PEG- 100 stearate & glyceryl stearate mixture); a colorant; a fragrance; a chelating agent (e.g., disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, citric acid, lactic acid); an antimicrobial agent/preservative (e.g., methylchloroisothiazolinone, phenoxyethanol, methylisothiazolinone, esters of parabenzoic acid, diazolidinyl urea and imidazolidinyl urea, benzoic acid, sorbic acid); a bleaching agent; a lubricating agent; a sensory modifier; a sunscreen additive; a vitamin; a protein/amino acid; a plant extract; a natural ingredient; a bioactive agent; an anti-aging agent; a pigment; an acid; a penetrant; an anti-static agent; an anti-frizz agent; an antidandruff agent; a hair waving/straightening agent; a hair styling agent; a hair oil; an absorbent; a hard particle; a soft particle; a conditioning agent (e.g., guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, PQ-10, PQ-7); a slip agent; an opacifier; a pearlizing agent and a salt. More preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention, optionally, further comprises at least one additional ingredient selected from the group consisting of an emulsifying agent (e.g. PEG- 100 stearate & glyceryl stearate mixture); an antimicrobial agent/preservative (e.g., methylchloroisothiazolinone, phenoxyethanol, methylisothiazolinone, esters of parabenzoic acid, diazolidinyl urea and imidazolidinyl urea, benzoic acid, sorbic acid); a thickener (e.g., polysaccharides, cellulosic polymers); and a chelating agent (e.g., disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, citric acid, lactic acid). Most preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention, optionally, further comprises at least one additional ingredient selected from the group consisting of an emulsifying agent mixture of PEG- 100 stearate & glyceryl stearate mixture; a hydroxyethyl cellulose polymer thickener; cetearyl alcohol emollient; tetrasodium ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid chelating agent and a mixture of phenoxyethanol and methylisothiazolinone preservative.
[0020] Preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention, optionally further comprises an emulsifying agent. More preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention further comprises 0.01 to 80 wt% (more preferably, 0.1 to 5 wt%; still more preferably, 0.5 to 2 wt%, most preferably, 0.75 to 1.25 wt %), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of an emulsifying agent. Most preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention further comprises 0.01 to 80 wt% (more preferably, 0.1 to 5 wt%; still more preferably, 0.5 to 2 wt%, most preferably, 0.75 to 1.25 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of an emulsifying agent; wherein the aqueous conditioner formulation is selected from the group consisting of a leave on hair conditioner and a rinse off hair conditioner; and wherein the emulsifying agent comprises a mixture of PET- 100 stearate and glyceryl stearate.
[0021] Preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention optionally further comprises a thickener. More preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention further comprises a thickener, wherein the thickener is selected to increase the viscosity of the aqueous conditioner formulation, preferably without substantially modifying the other properties of the personal care composition. Still more preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention further comprises a thickener, wherein the thickener is selected to increase the viscosity of the personal care composition, preferably without substantially modifying the other properties of the personal care composition and wherein the thickener accounts for 0 to 5.0 wt% (preferably, 0.1 to 5.0 wt %; more preferably, 0.2 to 2.5 wt %; most preferably, 0.5 to 2.0 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation. Preferred thickeners include polysaccharides and cellulosic polymers. Preferably, the thickener is a hydroxyethyl cellulose polymer.
[0022] Preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention optionally further comprises a chelating agent. More preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention further comprises 0.001 to 0.75 wt% (preferably, 0.03 to 0.25 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of a chelating agent, wherein the chelating agent is selected from the group consisting of disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), tetrasodium EDTA, citric acid, lactic acid and mixtures thereof. Most preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention further comprises 0.001 to 0.75 wt%
(preferably, 0.03 to 0.25 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of a chelating agent, wherein the chelating agent, wherein the chelating agent includes tetrasodium EDTA.
[0023] Preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention optionally further comprises an antimicrobial agent/preservative. More preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention further comprises 0.05 to 1.25 wt% (preferably, 0.1 to 1 wt%; more preferably, 0.25 to 0.75 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of an antimicrobial agent/preservative; wherein the antimicrobial/preservative is selected from the group consisting of phenoxyethanol, benzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, sodium benzoate, DMDM hydantoin, 2-ethylhexyl glyceryl ether, isothiazolinone (e.g., methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone) and mixtures thereof. Most preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention optionally further comprises 0.05 to 1.25 wt% (preferably, 0.1 to 1 wt%; more preferably, 0.25 to 0.75 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of an antimicrobial agent/preservative; wherein the antimicrobial/preservative is a mixture of phenoxyethanol and an isothiazolinone (more preferably, wherein the antimicrobial/preservative is a mixture of phenoxyethanol and methylisothiazolinone) .
[0024] Preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention contains < detectable limit of monosaccharide having amine groups.
[0025] Preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention contains < detectable limit of C3-5 monosaccharide.
[0026] Preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention contains < detectable limit of sugar.
[0027] Preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention contains < detectable limit of soy protein.
[0028] Preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention contains < detectable limit of hydrolyzed silk.
[0029] Preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention contains < detectable limit of sugar.
[0030] Preferably, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation prepared and used in the process of the present invention contains < 0.1 wt% (preferably, < 0.01 wt%; more preferably, < 0.001 wt%; most preferably, < detectable limit) , of hydrophobically modified poly(acrylamido-N-propyltrimethylammonium chloride.
[0031] Preferably, in the process for reducing hair (preferably, mammalian hair; more preferably, human hair) damage upon exposure of the hair to heat of the present invention, the provided heat protectant formulation, the cosmetically acceptable aqueous carrier and any additional ingredients are combined using known processing techniques to provide the aqueous thermal protectant formulation. More preferably, in the process for reducing hair (preferably, mammalian hair; more preferably, human hair) damage upon exposure of the hair to heat of the present invention, the provided heat protectant formulation, the cosmetically acceptable aqueous carrier and any additional ingredients are combined using known processing techniques to provide the aqueous thermal protectant formulation; wherein the aqueous thermal protectant formulation comprises 25 to 99.95 wt% (preferably, 50 to 99.9 wt%; more preferably, 75 to 99.5 wt%; most preferably, 80 to 99.3 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of the cosmetically acceptable aqueous carrier; and 0.1 to 5 wt% (preferably, 0.15 to 2.5 wt%; more preferably, 0.2 to 2 wt%; most preferably, 0.25 to 1.5 wt%), based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of the heat protectant.
[0032] Preferably, in the process for reducing hair (preferably, mammalian hair; more preferably, human hair) damage upon exposure of the hair to heat of the present invention, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation is applied to the hair using well known techniques. More preferably, in the process for reducing hair (preferably, mammalian hair; more preferably, human hair) damage upon exposure of the hair to heat of the present invention, the aqueous thermal protectant formulation is applied to the hair, wherein 0.01 g to 5 g of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation is applied per g of hair.
[0033] Preferably, in the process for reducing hair (preferably, mammalian hair; more preferably, human hair) damage upon exposure of the hair to heat of the present invention, comprises providing a heat generating hair care appliance. Heat generating hair care appliances typically fall into one of two major categories, namely (1) heat generating hair care appliances that are used preferably on wet hair (e.g., hair dryer) and (2) heat generating hair care appliances used preferably on dry hair (e.g., flat ironing/curling; hat rollers).
[0034] Heat generating appliances that are designed for and typically used on wet hair are sometimes referred to as hot air hair care appliances. Examples of hot air hair care appliances include hair dryers and hot air hair stylers. The typical hair dryer is designed to direct hot air towards the hair to facilitate drying of the hair. In these hair dryers, the air is directed through appropriate orifices and accelerated by a fan. The air expelled by such hair dryers may be heated, but example, through use of a resistive heater. Hair dryers may incorporate a hood, wherein a major portion of the hair is covered by the hood. Hair dryers typically operate by delivering hot air temperatures of 50 to 100 °C. Hot air stylers typically direct hot air through an attachment designed for combing or otherwise manipulating the hair. Hot air stylers may deliver hot air temperatures of up to 130 °C. [0035] Heat generating appliances that are designed for and typically used on dry hare are sometimes referred to as hot surface hair care appliances. Examples of hot surface hair care appliances may be designed for hair curling and/or hair straightening. Hot surface hair care appliances typically rely on resistive heating wherein heat is transported to the hair via direct contact with the appliance rather than using hot air. The heat transfer is typically effectuated by bringing the hair into contact with a metallic or ceramic surface of the hot surface hair care appliance. Hot surface hair care appliances are typically not used to dry the hair. Rather, hot surface hair care appliances are implemented to change the style of the hair, typically either to produce curls in the hair or to straighten the hair. The surfaces of hot surface hair care appliances designed to contact and transfer heat to hair typically achieve temperatures of 130 to 300 °C.
[0036] Preferably, in the process for reducing hair (preferably, mammal hair; more preferably, human hair) damage upon exposure of the hair to heat of the present invention, comprises exposing the hair to heat at a temperature of 50 to 300 °C (preferably, 80 to 280 °C; more preferably, 90 to 275 °C; most preferably, 100 to 250 °C) using the heat generating hair care appliance (wherein the heat generating hair care appliance is selected from the group consisting of at least one of a hot air hair care appliance (e.g., hair dryer, hot air hair styler) and a hot surface hair care appliance (e.g., hot curlers, flat iron and a curling iron)) (e.g., for drying or styling hair). More preferably, in the process for reducing hair (preferably, mammal hair; more preferably, human hair) damage upon exposure of the hair to heat of the present invention, comprises exposing the hair to heat at a temperature of 50 to 300 °C (preferably, 80 to 280 °C; more preferably, 90 to 275 °C; most preferably, 100 to 250 °C) using the heat generating hair care appliance (wherein the heat generating hair care appliance is selected from the group consisting of at least one of a hot air hair care appliance (e.g., hair dryer, hot air hair styler) and a hot surface hair care appliance (e.g., hot curlers, flat iron and a curling iron)) for 1 to 40 minutes (e.g., for drying or styling hair). Most preferably, in the process for reducing hair (preferably, mammal hair; more preferably, human hair) damage upon exposure of the hair to heat of the present invention, comprises exposing the hair to heat at a temperature of 50 to 300 °C (preferably, 80 to 280 °C; more preferably, 90 to 275 °C; most preferably, 100 to 250 °C) using the heat generating hair care appliance (wherein the heat generating hair care appliance is selected from the group consisting of at least one of a hot air hair care appliance (e.g., hair dryer, hot air hair styler) and a hot surface hair care appliance (e.g., hot curlers, flat iron and a curling iron)) for 2 to 40 minutes (e.g., for drying or styling hair); wherein the hair is exposed to heat using a hot air hair care appliance for 1 to 20 minutes for drying the hair; and then wherein the hair is exposed to heat using a hot surface hair care appliance for 1 to 20 minutes for styling the hair.
[0037] Preferably, in the process for reducing hair (preferably, mammalian hair; more preferably, human hair) damage upon exposure of the hair to heat of the present invention, optionally further comprises rinsing the hair with water. More preferably, in the process for reducing hair (preferably, mammalian hair; more preferably, human hair) damage upon exposure of the hair to heat of the present invention, optionally further comprises rinsing the hair with water before applying the aqueous protectant formulation to the hair (preferably, wherein the hair is rinsed with water 30 seconds to 20 minutes (more preferably, 30 seconds to 5 minutes)). Most preferably, in the process for reducing hair (preferably, mammalian hair; more preferably, human hair) damage upon exposure of the hair to heat of the present invention, optionally further comprises rinsing the hair with water before applying the aqueous thermal protectant formulation to the hair (preferably, wherein the hair is rinsed with water 30 seconds to 20 minutes (more preferably, 30 seconds to 5 minutes)); and then drying the rinsed hair by at least one of toweling and pressing the hair to remove excess water before applying the aqueous protectant formulation to the hair.
[0038] Preferably, in the process for reducing hair (preferably, mammalian hair; more preferably, human hair) damage upon exposure of the hair to heat of the present invention, optionally further comprises at least one of combing and brushing the hair. More preferably, in the process for reducing hair (preferably, mammalian hair; more preferably, human hair) damage upon exposure of the hair to heat of the present invention, optionally further comprises at least one of combing and brushing the hair after application of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation (preferably, wherein the hair is combed and/or brushed before, during and/or after exposing the hair to heat from the heat generating hair care appliance).
[0039] Some embodiments of the present invention will now be described in detail in the following Examples.
Example SI: Heat Protectant
[0040] A 2,000 mL, three necked, round bottomed flask was charged with hydrophobically modified hydroxyethyl cellulose polymer (hmHEC) (90.20 g, EMBARK™ Rheology Modifier 160 available from The Dow Chemical Company) and a mixture of 2-propanol (673.92 g) and deionized water (120.52 g). The flask was fitted with a stirring paddle and motor, a rubber serum cap, a nitrogen inlet and a Claisen adaptor fitted with a subsurface thermocouple and a Friedrich condenser with a mineral oil bubbler. The thermocouple was connected to a J-KEM controller and heating mantle.
[0041] While stirring the flask contents, the flask was slowly purged with nitrogen for one hour to remove any entrained oxygen. A nitrogen flow rate of about 1 bubble per second was used. After the nitrogen purge was completed, a 25% aqueous sodium hydroxide solution (9.60 g) was added to the flask contents through the serum cap using a plastic syringe with continued stirring under nitrogen. The flask contents were then allowed to stir for 30 minutes under nitrogen.
[0042] Using a plastic syringe a 70% aqueous glycidyl trimethylammonium chloride (60.48 g, available from QUAB Chemicals under the trade name QUAB® 151) was then added to the flask contents dropwise over a few minutes with stirring under nitrogen. When the addition was complete, the flask contents were stirred for 5 minutes, then heat was applied to the flask contents using the J-KEM controller. The temperature set point was 55 °C, and the flask contents were heated at 55 °C for 1.5 hours while stirring under nitrogen.
[0043] The flask contents where then cooled to room temperature while maintaining a positive nitrogen pressure in the flask. The flask contents were then neutralized by adding glacial acetic acid (10.0 g) by syringe. After stirring for 10 minutes, the product heat protectant was recovered by vacuum filtration through a metal fritted Buchner funnel. The heat protectant was washed in the Buchner funnel once each with the following: a mixture of 2-propanol (656 g) and deionized water (144 g); a mixture of 2-propanol (720 g) and deionized water (80 g); and 2-propanol (800 g), 40 % glyoxal (1.76 g) and glacial acetic acid (0.60 g). The heat protectant was briefly air dried and dried overnight in vacuo at 50 °C.
[0044] The heat protectant was manually ground using a mortar & pestle and screened through a #30 mesh US standard sieve to give 100.22 g of product. The heat protectant had a volatiles content of 4.41 %, an ash content of 2.70 % (as sodium acetate) and a Kjeldahl nitrogen content of 1.844%.
Comparative Examples C1-C4 and Example 1: Thermal Protection
Heat Damage Procedure
[0045] Hair tresses (2 g, Slightly Bleached Caucasian available from International Hair Importers) were wetted for 30 seconds in 37 °C distilled water, then 1.5 g of a 9 wt% sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) solution was massaged into the hair before rinsing with water flowing at 0.4 L/min for 30 seconds; detangled with a brush; and then given a final rinse with water flowing at 0.4 L/min for 10 seconds. The hair tresses where then treated by applying and working into the tress a 100 pL/g of a 1 wt% aqueous treatment solution of the active material noted in TABLE 1 (if any). Before the heat treatment of the hair tresses, the flat iron was preheated to 232 °C. Then the tresses were treated ten times for ten seconds each with the flat iron. After that, the tresses were washed with 9 wt% SLES solution, and this hair tress heat treatment and washing was repeated three times before performing the DSC studies below.
Table Ί
Figure imgf000021_0001
DSC Studies
[0046] Samples were prepared from the hair tresses treated according to each of Comparative Examples C1-C4 and Example 1 by isolating at least two different locks of hair from each tress and trimming them into small (< 2 mm long) pieces using clippers. The entire length of the chosen hair locks was cut up and randomly distributed on weighing paper to average any difference in hair properties along the length of the tress. A 10 mg sample was then taken from each pile of small hair pieces using a tweezers. The samples were placed into separate 40 pL stainless steel pan (Perkin-Elmer part number 0319-0218) and distributed evenly on the bottom of the pan. To each pan was added 30 pL of deionized water using a pipette, which plasticizes the cuticle and lowers the hair denaturation temperature below the decomposition temperature. The pans were then press-sealed with a Viton O-ring and a stainless steel lid and weight for total starting mass. To allow the hair samples to equilibrate in hydration level, the sealed pans were allowed to sit for 12 hours at 25 °C. The hair samples were then analyzed by a Differential Scanning Calorimeter (DSC) paired with a Refrigerated Cooling System (RCS90) unit. The hair samples were analyzed by equilibrating at 40 °C then heating the samples to 200 °C at a 10 °C per minute temperature ramp rate. During the analysis, the cell flow rate was 25 mL per minute of nitrogen. Instrumental software (TRIOS) was used to determine both the denaturation temperature and the denaturation enthalpy. The denaturation temperature was determined as the peak temperature of the endothermic transition and the denaturation enthalpy was determined by integrating the endothermic transition. The peak temperature from the respect of DSC curves are reported in TABLE 2. The denaturation enthalpy for the hair samples are also reported in TABLE 2.
Table 2
Figure imgf000022_0001

Claims

We Claim:
1. A process for reducing hair damage upon exposure of the hair to heat, comprising: providing a cosmetically acceptable aqueous carrier; selecting a heat protectant, wherein the heat protectant is selected based on its ability to impart thermal protection to hair from exposure to heat, wherein the heat protectant is selected to be a modified carbohydrate polymer, comprising a cellulose ether base material functionalized with
(i) trialkyl ammonium moieties of formula (I)
Figure imgf000023_0001
wherein each R1 is independently selected from the group consisting of a C1-7 alkyl group and wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer has a Kjeldahl nitrogen content, TKN, corrected for ash and volatiles, of 0.75 to 2.5 wt%; and
(ii) hydrophobic substituents each having 16 carbon atoms; wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises 0.005 to 1.5 wt%, based on weight of the cellulose ether base material, of the hydrophobic substituents; wherein the hydrophobic substituents are randomly distributed across the backbone of the cellulose ether base material; wherein the cellulose ether base material has a weight average molecular weight, Mw, of > 1,000,000 Daltons; and wherein the modified carbohydrate polymer comprises < 0.001 wt%, based on weight of modified carbohydrate polymer, of crosslinking units; providing the selected heat protectant; combining the cosmetically acceptable aqueous carrier and the heat protectant to form an aqueous thermal protectant formulation; wherein the aqueous thermal protectant formulation contains 0.1 to 5 wt%, based on weight of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation, of the heat protectant; providing a hair; applying the aqueous thermal protectant formulation to the hair; providing a heat generating hair care appliance; and exposing the hair to heat at a temperature of 50 to 300 °C using the heat generating hair care appliance for 1 to 30 minutes.
2. The process of claim 1, wherein the hair to which the aqueous protectant formulation has been applied exhibits a higher denaturation temperature than hair similarly exposed to heat but without application of the aqueous protectant formulation.
3. The process of claim 2, wherein the hair to which the aqueous protectant formulation has been applied exhibits a higher denaturation enthalpy than hair similarly exposed to heat but without application of the aqueous protectant formulation.
4. The process of claim 3, further comprising: rinsing the hair with water before applying the aqueous thermal protectant formulation to the hair.
5. The process of claim 4, further comprising: drying the rinsed hair by at least one of toweling and pressing hair to remove excess water before applying the aqueous thermal protectant formulation to the hair.
6. The process of claim 3, further comprising: at least one of combing and brushing the hair following application of the aqueous thermal protectant formulation.
7. The process of claim 3, wherein the aqueous protectant formulation applied to the hair, further comprises a thickener.
8. The process of claim 3, wherein the thickener is a polysaccharide.
9. The process of claim 3, wherein the hydrophobic substituent of the selected heat protectant is bonded to the cellulose ether base material through an ether linkage or an ether linkage and a 2-hydroxypropyl group.
10. The process of claim 9, wherein the aqueous protectant formulation, further comprises an additive selected from the group consisting of a chelating agent, a preservative, an emollient, a cosmetically acceptable cleansing surfactant and mixtures thereof.
PCT/US2021/034382 2020-05-29 2021-05-27 Process for reducing hair damage upon exposure to heat WO2021242942A1 (en)

Priority Applications (6)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2022565969A JP2023527114A (en) 2020-05-29 2021-05-27 A process for reducing hair damage during heat exposure
BR112022022651A BR112022022651A2 (en) 2020-05-29 2021-05-27 PROCESS TO REDUCE HAIR DAMAGE AFTER HAIR EXPOSURE TO HEAT
KR1020227044845A KR20230017808A (en) 2020-05-29 2021-05-27 A process that reduces hair damage when exposed to heat
CN202180031177.6A CN115461038A (en) 2020-05-29 2021-05-27 Method of reducing hair damage upon exposure to heat
US17/918,251 US20230145339A1 (en) 2020-05-29 2021-05-27 Process for reducing hair damage upon exposure to heat
EP21734609.7A EP4157212A1 (en) 2020-05-29 2021-05-27 Process for reducing hair damage upon exposure to heat

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US202063031699P 2020-05-29 2020-05-29
US63/031,699 2020-05-29

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2021242942A1 true WO2021242942A1 (en) 2021-12-02

Family

ID=76601729

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/US2021/034382 WO2021242942A1 (en) 2020-05-29 2021-05-27 Process for reducing hair damage upon exposure to heat

Country Status (7)

Country Link
US (1) US20230145339A1 (en)
EP (1) EP4157212A1 (en)
JP (1) JP2023527114A (en)
KR (1) KR20230017808A (en)
CN (1) CN115461038A (en)
BR (1) BR112022022651A2 (en)
WO (1) WO2021242942A1 (en)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP4321604A1 (en) 2022-08-08 2024-02-14 The Procter & Gamble Company A fabric and home care composition comprising surfactant and a polyester

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2002079259A1 (en) * 2001-03-29 2002-10-10 Akzo Nobel Nv Use of a quaternary ammonium alkyl hydroxyethyl cellulose ether as a conditioner for hair and skin
EP1779845A2 (en) * 2005-02-14 2007-05-02 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft auf Aktien Cationic cellulose derivatives in cosmetics II
US20110318285A1 (en) * 2010-06-24 2011-12-29 Hercules Incorporated Personal care composition additive for application on keratin substrates to provide long lasting benefits

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2002079259A1 (en) * 2001-03-29 2002-10-10 Akzo Nobel Nv Use of a quaternary ammonium alkyl hydroxyethyl cellulose ether as a conditioner for hair and skin
EP1779845A2 (en) * 2005-02-14 2007-05-02 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft auf Aktien Cationic cellulose derivatives in cosmetics II
US20110318285A1 (en) * 2010-06-24 2011-12-29 Hercules Incorporated Personal care composition additive for application on keratin substrates to provide long lasting benefits

Non-Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
J. P. SIBILIA: "A Guide to Materials Characterization and Chemical Analysis", 1988, VCH, pages: 81 - 84
W. W. YAUJ. J. KIRKLANDD. D. BLY: "Modern Size Exclusion Chromatography", 1979, WILEY-INTERSCIENCE
Y ZHOU ET AL: "The effect of various cosmetic pretreatments on protecting hair from thermal damage by hot flat ironing", J. COSMET. SCI., 62, 1 January 2011 (2011-01-01), pages 265 - 282, XP055512231, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Ray_Rigoletto/publication/51186310_The_effect_of_various_cosmetic_pretreatments_on_protecting_hair_from_thermal_damage_by_hot_flat_ironing/links/57925b7708aec89db7834f93.pdf> [retrieved on 20181004] *

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP4321604A1 (en) 2022-08-08 2024-02-14 The Procter & Gamble Company A fabric and home care composition comprising surfactant and a polyester
WO2024036126A1 (en) 2022-08-08 2024-02-15 The Procter & Gamble Company A fabric and home care composition comprising surfactant and a polyester

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
US20230145339A1 (en) 2023-05-11
BR112022022651A2 (en) 2022-12-13
KR20230017808A (en) 2023-02-06
EP4157212A1 (en) 2023-04-05
CN115461038A (en) 2022-12-09
JP2023527114A (en) 2023-06-27

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
JP6452625B2 (en) Semi-permanent hair straightening compositions and methods
TW201713308A (en) Method for processing hair and kit thereof
US4861583A (en) Hot curling hair treatment
WO2017197931A1 (en) Hair strengthening ingredient and method for strengthening hair
WO2019191747A1 (en) Hair styling compositions comprising polygalactomanans, and method for using the same
CN105555254B (en) Use the method for oxidation of polysaccharides and sphingol compound processing keratin fiber
EP4157212A1 (en) Process for reducing hair damage upon exposure to heat
JP7286548B2 (en) hair repair composition
WO2022203864A1 (en) Process for reducing hair damage upon exposure to heat
KR101131706B1 (en) Hair cosmetic composition
WO2021086773A1 (en) Aqueous conditioner formulation for thermally styled hair
JP2003231617A (en) Hair cosmetic
JPS59155307A (en) Hair cosmetic
JP6943426B2 (en) Hair cosmetics
JPS59157010A (en) Hair cosmetic
CN117481999A (en) Hair care composition for repairing damaged hair and preparation method thereof
JPS59157011A (en) Hair cosmetic
BR112020020098B1 (en) HAIR STYLING COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING POLYGALACTOMANANS AND METHOD FOR STYLING OR STRAIGHTENING HAIR USING THE SAME
JP2001039838A (en) Hair processing agent
JP2002226330A (en) Hair cosmetic
WO2016134430A1 (en) Transparent hair care composition
EA041597B1 (en) HAIR STRENGTHENING METHOD AND HAIR STRENGTHENING KIT CONTAINING AT LEAST TWO SEPARATE COMPOSITIONS
JP2001064121A (en) Hair cosmetic
JPH06192050A (en) Detergent composition for hair

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 21734609

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1

ENP Entry into the national phase

Ref document number: 2022565969

Country of ref document: JP

Kind code of ref document: A

REG Reference to national code

Ref country code: BR

Ref legal event code: B01A

Ref document number: 112022022651

Country of ref document: BR

ENP Entry into the national phase

Ref document number: 112022022651

Country of ref document: BR

Kind code of ref document: A2

Effective date: 20221107

ENP Entry into the national phase

Ref document number: 20227044845

Country of ref document: KR

Kind code of ref document: A

NENP Non-entry into the national phase

Ref country code: DE

ENP Entry into the national phase

Ref document number: 2021734609

Country of ref document: EP

Effective date: 20230102