WO2020127760A1

WO2020127760A1 - Cosmetic treatment process comprising the generation of a foam from two anhydrous compositions

Info

Publication number: WO2020127760A1
Application number: PCT/EP2019/086342
Authority: WO
Inventors: Anne-Laure FAMEAU; Koudedji SOW-KEBE
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2018-12-20
Filing date: 2019-12-19
Publication date: 2020-06-25
Also published as: FR3090359B1; FR3090359A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the hair or the skin, comprising: (i) a step of preparing an anhydrous cosmetic composition by extemporaneous mixing of a first anhydrous composition comprising at least one liquid fatty substance, at least one solid fatty substance and optionally at least one liquid surfactant and of a second anhydrous composition comprising at least one liquid fatty substance, (ii) a step of generating a foam from said final anhydrous cosmetic composition obtained in step (i), and (iii) a step of applying the foam generated in step (ii) to said keratin materials.

Description

DESCRIPTION

TITLE: Cosmetic treatment process comprising the generation of a foam from two anhydrous compositions

The invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the hair or the skin, comprising the preparation of a foam from two particular anhydrous compositions, and to the application of said foam to the keratin materials.

The invention also relates to a kit, i.e. a device containing several compartments, which is suitable for implementing such a process.

The invention also relates to a preferred cosmetic composition, which may be obtained via the process according to the invention.

In the field of washing and/or conditioning keratin materials, notably human keratin materials such as the skin and the hair, it is known practice to use products which are in the form of a foam generated at the time of the application.

During the use of a foaming product, whether for the hair or the skin, it is sought to have a product which gives good foam qualities, and notably a foam which forms quickly and easily, in an abundant amount, having a firm (not running in the hand), creamy texture, having good persistence over time, which is easy to apply and to spread onto the keratin materials, and which can, where appropriate, be rinsed off rapidly.

However, it has been found that the production of a foam of sufficient quality and in sufficient quantity, which keeps these properties over time, could be improved.

The existing rinse-off compositions also have the drawback of requiring a lot of rinsing water in order to remove the surplus product from the keratin materials. In many countries where access to water is restricted, the rinsing time and therefore the amount of water required to properly rinse off the product are key indicators of the working qualities of a composition.

Thus, there is a real need for a cosmetic composition for washing and/or conditioning keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the hair or the skin, which does not have the drawbacks mentioned above, i.e. a composition which has good foam properties and which is easy to apply to and to spread on keratin materials. The composition must also rinse off easily, while at the same time giving the keratin materials good cosmetic and sensory properties, notably in terms of softness, without making them greasy (whether as regards their visual appearance or their feel).

It has been discovered, surprisingly, that the extemporaneous mixing of a first anhydrous composition comprising at least one fatty substance with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C and at least one fatty substance with a melting point of greater than 25°C and of a second anhydrous composition comprising at least one fatty substance with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C makes it possible to achieve the objectives presented above. Specifically, this particular process makes it possible to generate, by means of shearing performed directly before application, a foam which has a firm, creamy texture which is stable over time. The foam obtained also has good working qualities, notably as regards the ease of application and of distribution on keratin materials and the rinseability.

One subject of the invention is thus a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the hair or the skin, comprising:

(i) a step of preparing a final anhydrous cosmetic composition (C) by extemporaneous mixing:

- of an anhydrous composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, and one or more fatty substances with a melting point of greater than 25°C, and optionally one or more surfactants with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, and

- of an anhydrous composition (B) comprising one or more fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, which are preferably different from the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C present in the anhydrous composition (A);

(ii) a step of generating a foam from said final anhydrous cosmetic composition (C) obtained in step (i); and

(iii) a step of applying the foam generated in step (ii) to said keratin materials.

The fatty substances present in compositions (A) and (B) above are non silicone substances.

The process according to the invention makes it possible to obtain an abundant foam which has good stability over time, which allows this ready-to-use foam to be stored for several days before application, if so desired. Furthermore, the foam generated according to the process of the invention has a firm and creamy texture, and allows easy spreading and distribution of the product on the keratin materials, and notably the hair and/or the skin.

A subject of the invention is also an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising:

a) one or more fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to

25°C,

b) one or more fatty substances with a melting point of greater than 25°C, and c) one or more beneficial agents other than the fatty substances a) and b), chosen from styling powders.

The composition is preferably in the form of a foam.

Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

For the purposes of the present invention, compositions (A), (B) and (C) are anhydrous cosmetic compositions. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous composition" denotes a composition comprising a water content of less than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, more preferentially less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, even more preferentially less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Preferably, the anhydrous compositions according to the invention are totally free of water (0%).

In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “melting point” corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013x 10⁵ Pa).

The term“fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure ( 1 013 10⁵ Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

Liquid fatty substances (composition A)

The cosmetic treatment process according to the present invention uses an anhydrous composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C, at atmospheric pressure (1.013>< 10⁵ Pa). In other words, these fatty substances are liquid at atmospheric pressure, and are not in a solid or gaseous state. In the present patent application, this or these fatty substances are also referred to as "liquid fatty substances" or "oils".

Advantageously, the liquid fatty substances that may be used in the anhydrous composition (A) according to the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

The liquid fatty substances present in the composition A used in the process of the invention are non-silicone substances.

The term "non-silicone fatty substance" refers to a fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds and the term "silicone fatty substance" refers to a fatty substance containing at least one Si-0 bond.

More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C according to the invention may be chosen from G to Ci₆ liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non- silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that the fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular, with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

As regards the liquid C₆-Ci₆ hydrocarbons, they may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam^®, and mixtures thereof.

A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.

The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol^® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-l,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec^® PCI and Flutec^® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-l,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050^® and PF 5060^® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl^® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluorom ethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052^® by the company 3M.

The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, such as 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Still within the context of this variant, esters of C4 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Ci to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

Mention may notably be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; tri octyl dodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of Ce to C30 and preferably C 12 to C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen notably from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated G to C30 and preferably C 12 to C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate esters.

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and in particular sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made, by way of example, of the product sold under the name Glucate^® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Preferably, use will be made of a liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol. Preferably, the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C of the anhydrous composition (A) are chosen from oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol^® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferentially from sunflower oil, soybean oil, olive oil, avocado oil, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the total content of the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C of the anhydrous composition (A) is greater than or equal to 70% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 75% by weight, more preferentially ranges from 75% to 99% by weight and better still from 80% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition (A).

Advantageously, the total content of the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C in the final anhydrous composition (C) is greater than or equal to 70% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 75% by weight, more preferentially ranges from 75% to 99% by weight and better still from 80% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final anhydrous composition (C). Solid fatty substances ( composition A )

The cosmetic treatment process according to the present invention uses an anhydrous composition (A) also comprising one or more fatty substances with a melting point of greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013x l0⁵ Pa). In the present patent application, this or these fatty substances are also referred to as "solid fatty substances".

Advantageously, the solid fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated substances.

The solid fatty substances according to the invention preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s ¹. The solid fatty substances used in the process of the invention are non-silicone substances.

The solid fatty substance(s) with a melting point of greater than 25°C of the anhydrous composition (A) are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, monoglycerides, diglycerides or triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

The term "solid" means solid at 25°C.

The term "fatty acid" means a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferentially comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

The solid fatty acids that may be used in the present invention are notably chosen from myristic acid, cetylic acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferably, the fatty acid(s) are chosen from behenic acid, arachidic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The term "fatty alcohol" means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); - cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol);

- stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol);

- arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol);

- behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol);

- lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol);

- ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol);

- montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol);

- myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is behenyl alcohol.

The solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and/or from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol, including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may be optionally hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; and C9- C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.

In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made notably of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, notably of biological origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfalfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer- Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.

Mention may also be made of C2 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Micro wax HW.

Mention may also be made of the PM 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched Cs to C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans- isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S^® by the company Heterene. The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used.

A wax that may be also used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.

It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may be made notably of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350^® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S^® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300^® and 310^® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325^® by the company Micro

Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200^®, 220^®, 220L^® and 250S^® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519^® and 519 L^® by the company Micro Powders.

The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fiber or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, alfalfa wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as essential wax of blackcurrant flower sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

The ceramides, or ceramide analogs such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

The ceramides or analogs thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula:

[Chem 1]

in which:

- Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

- R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

- R3 denotes a C15-C2₆ hydrocarbon-based group, which is saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups;

it being understood that, in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified with a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.

The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated linear C15 group.

Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH₃ group.

Use may also be made of the compounds for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical; and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon- based radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N- palmitoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N- behenoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-l,3- diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-l,3,4 triol and in particular N- stearoylphytosphingosine; 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-l,3-diol, N- linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N- palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N- behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N- (2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N- cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-Oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.

Preferably, the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of greater than 25°C of the anhydrous composition (A) are chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, monoglycerides, diglycerides or triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferentially from behenyl alcohol, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the total content of the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of greater than 25°C in the anhydrous composition (A) ranges from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition (A).

Preferably, the total content of the nonsilicone fatty substance(s) with a melting point of greater than 25°C in the anhydrous composition (A) advantageously ranges from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition (A).

Advantageously, the total content of the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of greater than 25°C in the anhydrous composition (A) ranges from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final anhydrous composition (C).

Advantageously, the total content of the nonsilicone fatty substance(s) with a melting point of greater than 25°C in the anhydrous composition (A) ranges from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final anhydrous composition (C).

Advantageously, the weight ratio between the total content of the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C and the total content of the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of greater than 25°C is greater than or equal to 3.5, preferably greater than or equal to 5, in the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A). Advantageously, the weight ratio between the total content of the nonsilicone fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C and the total content of the nonsilicone fatty substance(s) with a melting point of greater than 25°C is greater than or equal to 3.5, preferably greater than or equal to 5, in the final anhydrous cosmetic composition (C) obtained in step (i).

Preferably, the fatty substance(s) of the anhydrous composition (A) (i.e. of the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C and of the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of greater than 25°C) represent a content of greater than or equal to 75% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 80% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final anhydrous cosmetic composition (C) obtained in step (i).

Preferably, the nonsilicone fatty substance(s) of the anhydrous composition (A) (i.e. of the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C and of the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of greater than 25°C) represent a content of greater than or equal to 75% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 80% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final anhydrous cosmetic composition (C) obtained in step (i).

Liquid surfactants ( composition A )

The anhydrous composition (A) used in the process according to the invention may also optionally comprise one or more surfactants with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C. In the present patent application, this or these surfactants are also referred to as "liquid surfactant(s)". The liquid surfactants according to the invention may be at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure in a liquid form from very fluid to pasty. The liquid surfactants according to the invention are different from the liquid fatty substances of the anhydrous composition (A) described previously and from the liquid fatty substances of the anhydrous composition (B).

The surfactant(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C of the anhydrous composition (A) may be chosen from anionic liquid surfactants, nonionic liquid surfactants, cationic liquid surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic liquid surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the surfactant(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C of the anhydrous composition (A) are chosen from nonionic liquid surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the surfactant(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C of the anhydrous composition (A) have an HLB value ranging from 1 to 9 and more preferentially from 1 to 7.

The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art, and denotes the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant at 25°C in the Griffin sense.

The term "hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB)" means the equilibrium between the size and the strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and the strength of the lipophilic group of the surfactant. The HLB value according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

The surfactant(s) of composition (A) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C are preferably chosen from liquid surfactants with an HLB value ranging from 1 to 9 and advantageously from liquid surfactants of the following families:

a) esters of (poly)glycerol comprising from 1 to 10 glycerol units and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better still unsaturated, C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, better still C10-C20 fatty acid(s); these compounds may be chosen from:

- monoesters of glycerol and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better still unsaturated, C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, better still C10-C20 fatty acid(s),

- monoesters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better still unsaturated, C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, better still C10-C20 fatty acid(s); examples that may be mentioned include diglyceryl monooleate (INCI name: polyglyceryl-2 oleate), for instance the product sold by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Sunsoft Q-17B, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, for instance the product sold by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Sunsoft Q-12D;

- diesters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better still unsaturated, C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, better still C10-C20 fatty acids;

- triesters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better still unsaturated, C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, better still C10-C20 fatty acids; - pentaesters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better still unsaturated, C₆-C3₀, preferably C8-C24, better still C1₀-C2₀ fatty acids;

- hexaesters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better still unsaturated, C₆-C3₀, preferably C8-C24, better still C1₀-C2₀ fatty acids;

- heptaesters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better still unsaturated, C₆-C₃₀, preferably C8-C24, better still C1₀-C2₀ fatty acids;

- decaesters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better still unsaturated, C₆-C₃₀, preferably C8-C24, better still C1₀-C2₀ fatty acids;

- polyesters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better still unsaturated, C₆-C₃₀, preferably C8-C24, better still C1₀-C2₀ fatty acids;

b) esters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better still unsaturated, C₆-C₃₀, preferably C8-C24, better still C1₀-C2₀ hydroxylated fatty polyacids, for instance diesters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of hydroxylated fatty polyacids, in particular from 5 to 25 hydroxylated C12-C24 fatty acids, preferably from 6 to 15 hydroxylated C1₆-C2₀ fatty acids;

c) ethers of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better still unsaturated, C₆-C₃₀, preferably C8-C24, better still C1₀-C2₀ fatty alcohols;

d) esters of sorbitol and/or of sorbitan and of linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better still unsaturated, C₆-C₃₀, preferably C8-C24, better still C1₀-C2₀ fatty acid(s),

e) esters of sucrose and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better still unsaturated, C₆-C₃₀, preferably C8-C24, better still C10-C20 fatty acids,

f) esters of methylglucose and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better still unsaturated, C₆-C₃₀, preferably C8-C24, better still C1₀-C2₀ fatty acids,

g) and mixtures thereof. The surfactant(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C are preferentially chosen from esters of (poly)glycerol comprising from 1 to 10 glycerol units and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better still unsaturated, C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, better still C10-C20 fatty acid(s), and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the surfactant(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C are chosen from monoesters of glycerol and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better still unsaturated, C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, better still C10-C20 fatty acid(s). Particularly preferably, the surfactant with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C is diglyceryl monooleate.

When they are present, preferably, the total content of surfactant(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A).

When they are present, preferably, the total content of surfactant(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final anhydrous cosmetic composition (C).

Advantageously, the weight ratio between the total content of the fatty substances of the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) (i.e. of the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C and of the fatty substances with a melting point of greater than 25°C) and the total content of the surfactant(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C is greater than or equal to 10, preferably greater than or equal to 15.

Advantageously, the weight ratio between the total content of the fatty substances of the final anhydrous cosmetic composition (C) (i.e. of the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C and of the fatty substances with a melting point of greater than 25°C) and the total content of the surfactant(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C is greater than or equal to 10, preferably greater than or equal to 15. Liquid fatty substances (composition B)

The cosmetic treatment process according to the present invention uses an anhydrous composition (B) comprising one or more fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013x l0⁵ Pa). In other words, these fatty substances are liquid at atmospheric pressure, and are not in a solid or gaseous state. Preferably, this or these fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C are different from the fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C present in the first composition (A).

Advantageously, the liquid fatty substances that may be used in the anhydrous composition (B) according to the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

The liquid fatty substances of the anhydrous composition (B) used in the process of the invention are nonsilicone substances.

The fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C present in the anhydrous composition (B) according to the invention may be chosen from fatty substances of this type described previously for composition (A).

Preferably, the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C present in the anhydrous composition (B) according to the invention are chosen from Ce to Ci₆ liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, nonsilicone oils of animal origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and/or of fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and/or of fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferentially from octyl dodecanol, isopropyl myristate, squalane, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C of the anhydrous composition (B) are different from the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C of the anhydrous composition (A). Preferably, the content of the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C of the anhydrous composition (B) is greater than or equal to 70% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 75% by weight, even more preferentially greater than or equal to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition (B).

Preferably, the anhydrous composition (B) does not comprise any silicone liquid fatty substances.

Preferably, the content of the nonsilicone fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C of the anhydrous composition (B) is greater than or equal to 70% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 75% by weight, even more preferentially greater than or equal to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition (B).

Beneficial agents (composition B )

The anhydrous composition (B) used in the process according to the invention may also optionally comprise one or more beneficial agents.

An agent that is beneficial to keratin materials is an agent that is notably capable of protecting, enhancing, conditioning, treating and/or keeping in shape keratin materials, and in particular the skin and the hair.

Said beneficial agent according to the invention may be chosen from:

- fatty substances with a melting point of greater than 25°C, preferably other than the fatty substances with a melting point of greater than 25°C of composition (A), in particular chosen from ceramides,

- nacres, pigments, UV-screening agents and styling powders,

- antidandruff agents, seborrhea regulators and vitamins,

- and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the beneficial agents are chosen from ceramides, nacres, pigments, UV-screening agents, styling powders, and mixtures thereof.

In one particular embodiment, the beneficial agent(s) are chosen from fatty substances with a melting point of greater than 25°C. Advantageously, the fatty substances with a melting point of greater than 25°C that may be used in the anhydrous composition (B) may be chosen from the solid fatty substances as defined previously and are preferably different from the fatty substances with a melting point of greater than 25°C of composition (A).

In another particular embodiment, the beneficial agent(s) may advantageously be chosen from nacres, pigments, styling powders, and mixtures thereof.

The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and/or organic, and coated or uncoated. Among the mineral pigments that may be mentioned are metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide or cerium oxide, and also iron oxide, titanium oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments that may be mentioned are carbon black, pigments of D & C type and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum.

The nacres may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica notably with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "styling powder" means a powder which has a capacity for shaping the head of hair or for making this shaping last.

The capacity for shaping or lasting of the shaping of the powder may notably be due to its chemical nature and/or its geometrical form and/or its arrangement configuration during deposition onto the keratin fiber. This is because the irregularities created at the surface of the hairs promote the attachment of the fibers to each other.

The powder may be of any form, such as lamellar, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, rhombohedric or tetragonal). In a preferred embodiment, the powders are not spherical.

The number-average size of the powder may range from 0.001 to 50 pm, better still from 0.002 to 40 pm and even more preferentially from 0.003 to 35 pm.

This number-average size corresponds to the size measured from the statistical distribution of the particle sizes for half of the total number of the particles. This size is denoted D50.

In addition, the number-average size of these particles may be measured in the form of a mean value via an observation method with a light microscope, an electronic microscope, or a particle size analyzer using laser scattering. In the case where the particles are not in spherical form, their number-average size may be determined in the form of a mean of the longest or shortest diameter or of the thickness.

The styling powder(s) may be chosen from:

- fillers, such as metal carbonates, oxides and sulfates, for instance those of alkaline-earth metals, aluminum, gallium and indium; silicates; modified or unmodified silicas; sericite, synthetic fluorphlogopite, talc; natural or synthetic mica, notably white mica, gold mica, red mica, black mica or lithium oxide-mica; calcium phosphate, silicic acid, silicic anhydride, silicon carbide, metal salts of tungstic acid, magnesium aluminate, bentonite, zeolites, smectite, hydroxyapatite, ceramic powder, boron nitride and glass or ceramic microcapsules;

- specific composite fillers such as those sold under the names Excel Mica, Excel Pearl and the powder La Vie by the company Miyoshi Kasei, Inc..

Examples that may more particularly be mentioned include the carbonates, oxides and sulfates of alkaline-earth metals such as beryllium, magnesium, calcium, strontium, barium and radium, better still magnesium and calcium; the oxides, sulfates and carbonates of aluminum, gallium and indium; silicates such as kaolinite or kaolins (natural silicates containing kaolinite), silicates containing magnesium, particularly those containing an amount of magnesium of greater than 10% by weight (on a dry basis) expressed as magnesium oxide, such as Li-Mg-Na silicates, for instance Laponite XLG, provided by the company Rockwood; modified or unmodified silicas, better still modified silicas; mica; talc; and mixtures thereof.

Among the modified silicas, it is preferred to use surface-treated silicas such as hydrophobic silicas, for instance hydrophobic fumed silica of nanometric size and surface-treated with hexamethyldisilazane, such as the silica sold under the trade name Aerosil R812S or Aerosil R972 by the company Evonik, or HDK HI 15 by the company Wacker, or the hydrophobic fumed silica surface-treated with dimethylsilane.

More preferentially, the styling powder(s) are chosen from fillers, and more preferentially from calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, alumina, barium sulfate, magnesium oxide, kaolinite or kaolins, modified or unmodified silicas, better still modified silicas and even better still hydrophobic fumed silica of nanometric size and surface-treated with hexamethyldisilazane or hydrophobic fumed silica surface-treated with dimethylsilane; mica; talc; and mixtures thereof. In another particular embodiment, the additional compound(s) may advantageously be chosen from UV-screening agents.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "UV-screening agent" means a system which screens out UV radiation.

The UV-screening agent(s) generally have a molecular weight of less than

1500 g/mol, preferably less than 1000 g/mol, better still less than 500 g/mol.

The UV-screening agent(s) may be chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble, silicone or nonsilicone organic screening agents.

The organic UV-screening agents may be chosen from dibenzoylmethane derivatives; anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; b,b-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2 463 264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 101 62 844; screening polymers and screening silicones such as those described notably in patent application WO 93/04665; dimers derived from a- alkylstyrene, such as those described in patent application DE 198 55 649; 4,4- diarylbutadienes such as those described in patent applications EP 0 967 200, DE 197 46 654, DE 197 55 649, EP-A-1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of organic UV-screening agents, mention may be made of those denoted hereinbelow under their INCI name:

- para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives: PABA, Ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA sold notably under the name

Escalol 507 by ISP, glyceryl PABA, PEG-25 PABA sold under the name Uvinul P25 by BASF;

- cinnamic derivatives: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold notably under the trade name Parsol MCX by Hoffmann-La Roche, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000 by Haarmann & Reimer, Cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate; - dibenzoylmethane derivatives: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane sold notably under the trade name Parsol 1789 by Hoffmann-La Roche, isopropyl dibenzoylmethane sold notably under the trade name Eusolex 8020 by Merck;

- salicylic derivatives: Homosalate sold under the name Eusolex HMS by Rona/EM Industries, ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan OS by

Haarmann & Reimer, dipropylene glycol Salicylate sold under the name Dipsal by Scher, TEA salicylate, sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS by Haarmann & Reimer;

- b,b-diphenylacrylate derivatives: Octocrylene sold notably under the trade name Uvinul N539 by BASF, Etocrylene, sold notably under the trade name Uvinul N35 by BASF;

- benzophenone derivatives: Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name Uvinul 400 by BASF, Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name Uvinul D50 by BASF, Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name Uvinul M40 by BASF, Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name Uvinul MS40 by BASF, Benzophenone-5, Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name Helisorb 11 by Norquay,

Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24 by American Cyanamid, Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name Uvinul DS-49 by BASF, Benzophenone- 12, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate;

- benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidenecamphor manufactured under the name Mexoryl SD by Chimex, 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor sold under the name Eusolex 6300 by Merck, benzylidenecamphorsulfonic acid manufactured under the name Mexoryl SL by Chimex, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate manufactured under the name Mexoryl SO by Chimex, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid manufactured under the name Mexoryl SX by Chimex;

- phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid sold notably under the trade name Eusolex 232 by Merck, disodium phenyldibenzimidazoletetrasulfonate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP by Haarmann & Reimer;

- phenylbenzotri azole derivatives: drometrizole trisiloxane sold under the name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, sold in solid form under the trade name Mixxim BB/100 by Fairmount Chemical or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion under the trade name Tinosorb M by Ciba Specialty Chemicals; - triazine derivatives: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by Ciba Geigy, ethylhexyl triazone sold notably under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF, diethylhexyl butamido triazone sold under the trade name Uvasorb HEB by Sigma 3V, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'- aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine;

- anthranilic derivatives: menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA by Haarmann & Reimer;

imidazoline derivatives: ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate;

- 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives: l,l-dicarboxy-(2,2’-dimethylpropyl)-4,4- diphenylbutadiene;

- benzoxazole derivatives: 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4- phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine sold under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3 V;

- and mixtures thereof.

As liposoluble (or lipophilic) organic UV-screening agents that are suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made more particularly of:

- Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate,

- Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane,

- Homosalate,

- Ethylhexyl salicylate,

- Octocrylene,

- Benzophenone-3,

- n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate,

- 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor,

- Ethylhexyl triazone,

- Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine,

- Diethylhexyl butamidotriazone,

- Drometrizole trisiloxane,

- 1, l-Dicarboxy(2,2’-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene,

- 2,4-Bis[5-(l-dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2- ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine. As water-soluble (or hydrophilic) organic UV-screening agents that are most particularly suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made more particularly of:

- PABA,

- PEG-25 PABA,

- Benzylidenecamphorsulfonic acid,

- Camphor benzalkonium methosulfate,

- Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid,

- Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid,

- Disodium phenyldibenzimidazoletetrasulfonate,

- Benzophenone-4,

- Benzophenone-5.

Preferably, the UV-screening agent(s) according to the invention are chosen from the liposoluble UV-screening agents.

The above beneficial agent(s) may generally be present in the anhydrous composition (B) in an amount representing, for each of them, between 0 and 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 15%, or even from 0.1% to 10% and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final anhydrous composition

(C).

Additives

The anhydrous compositions (A) and (B) according to the present invention may also optionally comprise one or more additives, other than the compounds described above and among which mention may be made of nonionic, cationic, anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants other than those described above, and mixtures thereof, cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers, or mixtures thereof, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhea agents, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, notably polymeric thickeners, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preserving agents.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compounds such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).

The above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final anhydrous composition (C).

Process

The cosmetic treatment process according to the present invention comprises a first step (i) of preparing a final anhydrous cosmetic composition (C). Said composition (C) is obtained by extemporaneous mixing of the anhydrous compositions

(A) and (B) as defined previously.

In a particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition (A) is itself prepared by the mixing of its ingredients at a temperature above 50°C, preferably within the range extending from 60°C to 80°C. After cooling, an anhydrous gel is obtained. The consistency of the gel may be characterized by penetrometry. Preferably, the gel has a minimum penetration force of greater than or equal to 200 g, more preferentially ranging from 220 to 500 g.

The penetration force may be measured in the following manner: a cylindrical rod consisting of a cylindrical cell (2 cm diameter) is made to penetrate into the product at a set speed down to a predefined penetration distance, followed by extracting the probe from the product at this same speed. The curve of the force exerted by the product on the probe (expressed in g) as a function of time is recorded. The measurements may be performed on a TA.XT PLUS texturometer from Swantech, in 30 mL jars, with a force search speed of 10.00 mm/second and also a penetration speed of 0.30 mm/second, and a penetration distance covered of 10.00 mm.

The final anhydrous cosmetic composition (C) is then obtained by mixing composition (A), preferably in gel form, with composition (B) as defined previously.

According to a particular embodiment, compositions (A) and (B) are mixed with a weight ratio of the amount of the first composition (A) relative to the amount of the second composition (B) ranging from 1 to 10. Preferably, compositions (A) and

(B) are mixed with a weight ratio of the amount of the first composition (A) relative to the amount of the second composition (B) ranging from 5 to 10, more preferentially from 8 to 10. The process according to the present invention also comprises a second step (ii) of generating a foam from said final anhydrous composition (C) obtained in step (i). Advantageously, the foam generation step (ii) is performed by shearing, in particular by mechanical shearing, of the final anhydrous cosmetic composition (C) obtained in step (i). The shearing may be performed, for example, with a whisk, an electric mixer, a system for expansion by air injection, or a pump bottle equipped with a push button.

The process according to the present invention also comprises a third step (iii) of applying the foam generated in step (ii) onto keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the skin or the hair. Preferably, the foam generation step (ii) is performed just before application, more preferentially 30 seconds to several hours before application, even more preferentially 1 minute to 2 hours, better still 1 minute to 30 minutes before application. The foam obtained according to the process of the invention may be applied to dry or wet keratin materials that have optionally been washed beforehand, for example with a shampoo.

On conclusion of the cosmetic treatment, the keratin materials are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed and then rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry.

Preferably, the step of applying the composition according to the invention is followed by a step of rinsing the keratin materials, preferably with water.

The foam obtained according to the process of the invention is applied for a leave-on time that may range from 1 minute to 12 hours and preferably from 2 to 10 minutes.

Advantageously, the foam obtained via the process of the invention is used for washing and/or conditioning keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the hair or the skin, and preferably the hair.

In a particular embodiment, the foam obtained according to the process of the invention is used for the cleansing and/or cosmetic care of the skin, in particular for treating dry skin.

In another embodiment of the invention, the foam obtained according to the process of the invention is used for the cleansing and/or cosmetic care of the hair and/or the scalp, in particular as a treatment before shampooing, or as shampoo or as hair conditioner.

Anhydrous cosmetic composition

The invention also relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising: a) one or more fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to

25°C,

b) one or more fatty substances with a melting point of greater than 25°C, and c) one or more beneficial agents other than the fatty substances a) and b), chosen from styling powders,

the composition preferably being in the form of a foam.

The fatty substances a), b) and the beneficial agent(s) c) are preferably as described above.

This composition is typically obtained, or is able to be obtained, via the process according to the invention as described above.

The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples

In the examples that follow, all the amounts are given as mass percentages of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition. a) Compositions

A composition (A) comprising 90% sunflower oil and 10% behenyl alcohol is prepared, on the one hand.

A composition (B) 100% consisting either of octyl dodecanol or of squalane is prepared, on the other hand.

The compositions (C) are then prepared by mixing compositions (A) and (B) in the proportions indicated in the table below.

[Table 11

b) Processes tested

Process 1 (PI, according to the invention): composition A is obtained by hot mixing between 70°C and 85°C of the sunflower oil and the behenyl alcohol, and the mixture is then cooled to room temperature. After cooling, a gel is obtained.

Compositions (Cl) and (C2) and (C3) according to the invention are then obtained by placing composition (A) obtained previously in contact with composition

(B).

Process 2 (P2, comparative): the comparative compositions (C'l) and (C'2) and (C'3) are obtained by hot mixing between 70°C and 85°C of the sunflower oil and the behenyl alcohol of composition (A) with composition (B). The mixture is then cooled to room temperature.

Foam generation protocol: the foams are generated by shearing using each of the compositions (Cl), (C2), (C3) and (C'l), (C'2) and (C'3) with the aid of a Philips brand electric mono-whisk (position No. 2) for 2 minutes.

The foam qualities (notably the elasticity) were evaluated via rheological measurements using an MCR 102 rotating rheometer from Anton Paar, in sanded plate/plate geometry with a 1 mm gap and a temperature of 25°C. The viscoelastic spectrum is determined over a frequency range extending from 10 ¹ to 100 Hz for a strain of 0.1% in the linear regime.

G' is measured, which corresponds to the storage modulus or elastic modulus reflecting the elastic response and the solid nature (firmness) of each foam. c) Results

The results obtained with composition (B) consisting of squalane are detailed in the table below.

[Table 21

The results obtained with composition (B) consisting of octyldodecanol are detailed in the table below.

[Table 3]

The foams obtained according to the process of the invention, in which the fatty substances are mixed in two steps, have a firmer and more elastic texture than the foams obtained according to the comparative process, in which all the fatty substances are mixed in a single step at elevated temperature.

Furthermore, the stability of the foam obtained according to the invention is greater over time than that according to the comparative for which oil draining takes place faster. For squalane, the appearance of oil draining as a function of time was monitored. The draining was evaluated by visual inspection of the foams placed in 50 mL jars just after manufacture. There is draining when liquid oil is observed in the bottom of the jar containing the foam by visual inspection. The table below collates the results for squalane.

[Table 4j

For octyl dodecanol, the appearance of oil draining as a function of time was monitored. The table below collates the results for octyldodecanol.

[Table 5j

Claims

1. A cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the hair or the skin, comprising:

(iii) a step of applying the foam generated in step (ii) to said keratin materials; the fatty substances present in compositions (A) and (B) being non-silicone substances.

2. The process as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C of the anhydrous composition (A) are chosen from oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof, preferably from oils of triglyceride type of plant origin, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from sunflower oil, soybean oil, olive oil, avocado oil, and mixtures thereof.

3. The process as claimed in either of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C of the anhydrous composition (A) is greater than or equal to 70% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 75% by weight, more preferentially ranges from 75% to 99% by weight and better still from 80% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition (A).

4. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C in the final anhydrous composition (C) is greater than or equal to 70% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 75% by weight, more preferentially ranges from 75% to 99% by weight and better still from 80% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final anhydrous composition (C).

5. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of greater than 25°C of the anhydrous composition (A) are chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, monoglycerides, diglycerides or triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from behenyl alcohol, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

6. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of greater than 25°C in the anhydrous composition (A) ranges from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition (A).

7. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total content of the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C and the total content of the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of greater than 25°C is greater than or equal to 3.5, preferably greater than or equal to 5, in the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A).

8. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anhydrous composition (A) also comprises one or more surfactants with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, preferably from nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

9. The process as claimed in the preceding claim, characterized in that the total content of surfactant(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A).

10. The process as claimed in the preceding claim, characterized in that the total content of surfactant(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition (C).

11. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C of the anhydrous composition (B) are chosen from C6-C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, nonsilicone oils of animal origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and/or of fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and/or of fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from octyldodecanol, isopropyl myristate, squalane, and mixtures thereof.

12. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anhydrous composition (B) comprises one or more beneficial agents preferably chosen from fatty substances with a melting point of greater than 25°C which are preferably different from the fatty substances with a melting point of greater than 25°C of composition (A), nacres, pigments, UV-screening agents, styling powders, and mixtures thereof.

13. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the two compositions are mixed with a weight ratio of the amount of the first anhydrous composition (A) relative to the amount of the second anhydrous composition (B) ranging from 1 to 10, preferably from 5 to 10 and more preferentially from 8 to 10.

14. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the foam generation step (ii) is performed by shearing the final anhydrous cosmetic composition (C) obtained in step (i).

15. An anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising:

a) one or more fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C,

the composition preferably being in the form of a foam.

16. The composition as claimed in claim 15, characterized in that the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C a) are as defined in anyone of claims 1, 2 and 11, and the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of greater than 25°C b) are as defined in anyone of claims 1 and claim 5.