WO2020007630A1

WO2020007630A1 - Freeze-dried cosmetic composition

Info

Publication number: WO2020007630A1
Application number: PCT/EP2019/066601
Authority: WO
Inventors: Xing Liu; Junfeng Zhao
Original assignee: Unilever NV; Conopco Inc
Current assignee: Unilever NV; Conopco Inc
Priority date: 2018-07-03
Filing date: 2019-06-24
Publication date: 2020-01-09
Anticipated expiration: 2021-01-03
Also published as: CN112203630A; PH12020551811A1

Abstract

Disclosed is a freeze-dried cosmetic composition comprising 10 to 70% of water-soluble active by weight of the freeze-dried cosmetic composition, polyhydric alcohol, and galactomannan.

Description

FREEZE-DRIED COSMETIC COMPOSITION

Field of the invention

The present invention relates to a freeze-dried cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention is related to a freeze-dried cosmetic composition comprising water- soluble active, polyhydric alcohol, and galactomannan. It was surprisingly found that the end use skin care product generated by the freeze-dried cosmetic composition provided less sticky and less draggy post-use sensory.

Background of the invention

A number of important water-soluble actives are known for being unstable due to external influence, for example light, oxidation and etc. The actives may be altered or decomposed such that the product containing such actives may have a relatively short shelf life, or alternatively the functionality may be reduced during the lifetime of the product.

Therefore, there is a big interest to develop new ways to include actives into cosmetic compositions which affords long-term stability over the entire shelf life and provides high efficiency in application. Freeze drying is a well-known and widely-used method particularly in pharmaceutics. With such way, the cosmetic active substances may be included in a freeze-dried cosmetic composition (interchangeably with FDCC) in forms of powder, tablet and/or capsule, preventing the alteration or decomposition. Such FDCC is suitable to produce an end use skin care product by mixing with aqueous cosmetic composition (interchangeably with ACC) just before use. In addition, such a FDCC may also include high dosage of actives to deliver a better efficiency and can also be shipped in large quantities to points of distribution for energy efficient manufacturing benefits.

However, we have recognized that when dissolving the FDCC into the ACC, the post- use sensory may be compromised. For example, it may bring a sticky and draggy post- use sensory. The present inventor(s) therefore developed a freeze-dried cosmetic composition comprising 10 to 70% of water-soluble active by weight of the freeze-dried cosmetic composition, polyhydric alcohol, and galactomannan. It was surprisingly found that the end use skin care product provided a less sticky and less draggy post-use sensory when dissolving the FCC of the present invention into the ACC.

Summary of the invention

In a first aspect, the present invention is directed to freeze-dried cosmetic composition comprising 10 to 70% of water-soluble active by weight of the freeze-dried cosmetic composition, 10 to 50% of polyhydric alcohol by weight of the freeze-dried cosmetic composition, and 0.1 to 15% of galactomannan by weight of the freeze-dried cosmetic composition, wherein the water-soluble active is selected from Vitamin B2, Vitamin B3 (niacinamide), Vitamin B6, ascorbic acid, derivatives thereof, and a mixture thereof.

In a second aspect, the present invention is directed to kit of parts for preparing a skin care product, the kit comprises a cosmetics container, a freeze-dried cosmetic composition of the present invention and instruction for use of the kit.

In a third aspect, the present invention is directed to a skin care product obtainable by mixing the free-dried cosmetic composition of the present invention and an aqueous cosmetic composition. All other aspects of the present invention will more readily become apparent upon considering the detailed description and examples which follow.

Detailed description of the invention

Except in the examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use may optionally be understood as modified by the word“about”.

All amounts are by weight of the composition, unless otherwise specified. It should be noted that in specifying any range of values, any particular upper value can be associated with any particular lower value. For the avoidance of doubt, the word“comprising” is intended to mean“including” but not necessarily“consisting of” or“composed of”. In other words, the listed steps or options need not be exhaustive. The disclosure of the invention as found herein is to be considered to cover all embodiments as found in the claims as being multiply dependent upon each other irrespective of the fact that claims may be found without multiple dependency or redundancy. Where a feature is disclosed with respect to a particular aspect of the invention (for example a composition of the invention), such disclosure is also to be considered to apply to any other aspect of the invention (for example a method of the invention) mutatis mutandis. “Water-soluble” as used herein refers to ingredient that dissolves in water to give a solution with a concentration of at least 5 grams per liter at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

The water-soluble active is selected from Vitamin B2, Vitamin B3 (niacinamide), Vitamin B6, ascorbic acid, derivatives thereof, and a mixture thereof. More preferably, the water- soluble active comprises ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivative, or a mixture thereof. Even more preferably, the water-soluble active is selected from ascorbic acid, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glycoside, or a mixture thereof. Still even more preferably the water-soluble active comprises ascorbic acid and most preferably the water-soluble active is ascorbic acid.

Preferably, the water-soluble active is present in amount of 25 to 60% by weight of the FDCC, more preferably from 30 to 55%, and even more preferably 35 to 50% by weight of the FDCC.

In a preferred embodiment, the freeze-dried cosmetic composition comprises ascorbic acid in amount of 25 to 60% by weight of the FDCC, more preferably from 30 to 55%, and even more preferably 35 to 50% by weight of the FDCC. To provide a faster dissolution rate of FDCC in ACC and/or better sensory of the end use skin care product, preferably the polyhydric alcohol has at least three hydroxyl group. Preferably, the polyhydric alcohol has a molecular weight of 50 to 500, more preferably 60 to 300. Most preferably, the polyhydric alcohol is glycerin.

Preferably the polyhydric alcohol is present in amount of 18 to 38%, and more preferably 22 to 32% by weight of the FDCC. More preferably the FDCC comprises glycerin in amount of 10 to 50%, more preferably 18 to 38%, and most preferably 22 to 32% by weight of the FDCC.

Preferably the galactomannan is selected from guar gum, locust beam gum, cassia gum or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the galactomannan comprises guar gum and most preferably the galactomannan is guar gum.

Preferably the galactomannan is present in amount of 0.5 to 12%, more preferably 0.8 to 8%, even more preferably 1.2 to 5% by weight of the FDCC. Preferably the FDCC comprises guar gum in amount of 0.1 to 15%, more preferably 0.5 to 12%, even more preferably 0.8 to 8%, still even more preferably 1.2 to 5% by weight of the FDCC.

To provide a faster dissolution rate of FDCC in ACC and/or better sensory of the end use skin care product, preferably the weight ratio of the water-soluble active to the polyhydric alcohol is from 1 :3 to 8:1 , more preferably from 1 : 1 to 3:1 and even more preferably from 1.2:1 to 1.8:1. Preferably, the weight ratio of the total amount of ascorbic acid and ascorbic acid derivative to the amount of glycerin is from 1 :3 to 8:1 , more preferably from 1 :1 to 3:1 and even more preferably from 1.2:1 to 1.8:1.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the polyhydric alcohol to the galactomannan is from 1 : 1 to 30:1 , more preferably 2:1 to 20:1 , and even more preferably 5:1 to 15:1. Preferably, the weight ratio of the polyhydric alcohol to the galactomannan is from 1 :1 to 30:1 , more preferably 2:1 to 20:1 , and even more preferably 5:1 to 15:1.

To provide a faster dissolution rate of FDCC in ACC and/or better sensory of the end use skin care product, preferably the FDCC may additionally comprise disaccharide. Preferably, the amount of the disaccharide is 3 to 50%, more preferably 10 to 45%, even more preferably 16 to 35% and still even more preferably 22 to 30% by weight of the FDCC. More preferably, the FDCC comprises trehalose. Preferably, the amount of the trehalose is 3 to 50%, more preferably 10 to 45%, even more preferably 16 to 35% and still even more preferably 22 to 30% by weight of the FDCC.

The weight ratio of the water-soluble active to the disaccharide is preferably from 3:1 to 8:1 , more preferably 0.6:1 to 4:1 , and even more preferably from 1.2:1 to 2:1. The weight ratio of the polyhydric alcohol to the disaccharide is preferably from 1 :8 to 8:1 , more preferably 1 :4 to 4:1 , and even more preferably from 1 :1.5 to 1.5:1. The weight ratio of the galactomannan to the disaccharide is preferably from 1 :20 to 3:1 , more preferably from 1 :15 to 1 :1 , and even more preferably from 1 :10 to 1 :3.

The FDCC may comprise water, preferably in amount of less than 10% by weight of the FDCC, more preferably 0.1 to 8% and most preferably 3 to 6% by weight of the FDCC.

Preferably the FDCC is substantially free of surfactant “substantially free of surfactant” means that a surfactant is completely absent or, if any, present in the FDCC in an amount of less 0.1 % by weight of the FDCC.

The FDCC may comprise preservatives although it is also within the scope of the invention that the FDCC is preservative free. Particularly preferred preservatives are iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, phenoxyethanol, 1 ,2-octanediol, hydroxyacetophenone, ethylhexylglycerine, hexylene glycol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate and benzyl alcohol. It is more preferred that the preservative is combination of 1 ,2-octanediol and phenoxyethanol, or combination of iodopropynyl butyl carbamate and phenoxyethanol. Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts ranging from 0.01% to 5%, more preferably 0.1 to 3% even more preferably 0.2 to 2% based on the total weight of the freeze-dried cosmetic composition. Fragrances, fixatives and exfoliants may optionally be included in the FDCC the present invention. Each of these substances may range from 0.05 to 5%, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight of the FDCC.

The FDCC is obtainable by freeze drying (lyophilizing) a freeze-dried cosmetic FDCC precursor. All features except the amount of the ingredient by weight of the FDCC (including the weight ratio between ingredients except with water) described for the freeze-dried cosmetic composition are considered also apply to the FDCC precursor.

The precursor preferably comprises water in amount of from 25 to 92%, more preferably from 40 to 88%, and most preferably, from 55 to 88% by weight of the precursor. Preferably, the FDCC precursor comprises water-soluble active in amount of 3 to 20%, more preferably 6 to 17%, and even more preferably from 8 to 15% by weight of the precursor the polyhydric alcohol is present in amount of 2 to 15%, preferably 5 to 12%, and more preferably 6 to 10% by weight of the FDCC precursor.

The disaccharide is present preferably in amount of 2 to 14%, preferably 4 to 11 % and more preferably 6 to 9% by weight of the precursor.

Preferably, the precursor is not an emulsion. In a preferred embodiment, the precursor has a viscosity from 750 to 55,000 cps, and preferably, from 2,000 to 40,000 cps, and most preferably, from 5,000 to 30,000 cps, including all ranges subsumed therein, where the viscosity of the precursor may be measured with a Brookfield (DV-1 +) Viscometer, temperature 25°C and set at 20 RPM, RV6 for 30 seconds. The FDCC precursor may be freeze dried (lyophilization) by any art recognized technique. Such a technique includes the steps of first freezing precursor in a freezer at about -17 to -20°C. Optionally the precursor can be frozen in liquid nitrogen (-196°C) or in a mixture of acetone and dry ice (-80°C) by shell freezing in the round bottom flask. The frozen precursors can then be transferred to a freeze dryer. The precursor is freeze- dried preferably at temperature of from -20 to -90°C, more preferably -25 to -50°C. Preferably, the freeze drying is conducted at vacuum of preferably 0.07 to 1.8 mbar, and more preferably from 0.08 to 1.3 mbar to drive off water.

The shape or form of the resulting freeze-dried cosmetic composition is dependent on the shape and size of the container or form carrying or holding the precursor during the freeze-drying process. Preferably, the freeze-dried cosmetic composition is in form of powder, flake, capsule, or tablet. More preferably, the FDCC is in form of capsule or tablet. Most preferably, the FDCC is in form of tablet.

It is preferable that the freeze-dried cosmetic composition is provided inside a cosmetics container. The cosmetic container may be selected from bottle, jar, box, and/or blister pack depending on the form of the FDCC. Preferably, the FDCC is in form of tablet and the cosmetic container is a blister pack.

Preferably a kit of parts comprises a cosmetic container, a FDCC according to the invention and instruction for use of the kit. The consumers may prepare a final skin care product by mixing the freeze-dried cosmetic composition with an aqueous cosmetic composition according to the instruction. Preferably, the skin care product is produced in 1 second to 5 minutes, more preferably in 10 seconds to 2 minutes. The instruction preferably includes guidance on the way of mixing, and more preferably, includes guidance on the amounts of the FDCC and the ACC to be added, and even more preferably include guidance on the amounts of the FDCC and the ACC to be mixed and the desired mode of agitation of the mixture.

To facilitate the operation by consumers, it is preferable that the kit of parts additionally comprises an aqueous cosmetic composition which is physically separate from the FDCC. Preferably, the aqueous cosmetic composition is provided inside a separate packaging unit. The separate packaging unit may be part of the cosmetic container, or another cosmetic container. Preferably, the separate packaging unit is another cosmetic container. The aqueous cosmetic composition (interchangeable with ACC) refers to composition comprising at least 25%, preferably at least 35% of water by weight of the aqueous composition. Preferably, the aqueous cosmetic composition comprises 45 to 100%, more preferably 55 to 100% of water by weight of the aqueous composition. In certain preferred embodiments, the aqueous composition is water.

In certain embodiments, the aqueous cosmetic composition preferably comprises water- soluble ingredient. Preferably, the water-soluble ingredient is stable in water. Preferably, the aqueous comprises polyhydric alcohol. Polyhydric alcohols may be selected from group of propylyene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol or a mixture thereof. Most preferred polyhydric alcohol is glycerol known also as glycerin. The amount of polyhydric alcohol may range anywhere from 0.1 to 30%, preferably between 3 and 25%, more preferably 5 to 22% by weight of the aqueous cosmetic composition.

The present invention also provides a skin care product for end use obtainable by mixing the freeze-dried cosmetic composition of the present invention with the aqueous composition.

It is preferable that the final skin care product comprises the water-soluble active in amount of at least 3% by weight of the product, more preferably 5 to 25%, even more preferably 7 to 15% by weight of the product. The skin care product refers to a product suitable for topical application to human skin, including leave-on and wash-off products. Preferably the skin care product is a leave-on product. The term "leave-on" as used herein means a product that is applied to or rubbed on the skin, and left thereon. The term "skin" as used herein includes the skin on the face (except eye lids and lips), neck, chest, abdomen, back, arms, under arms, hands, and legs. Preferably“skin” includes the skin on the face (except eye lids and lips) and under arms. More preferably skin means skin on the face other than lips and eyelids. The following examples are provided to facilitate an understanding of the invention. The examples are not intended to limit the scope of the claims.

Examples

Example 1

This example demonstrates the preparation of freeze-dried cosmetic compositions.

Table 1

The free-dried cosmetic compositions in Table 1 were prepared by freezing a freeze- dried cosmetic composition precursor in liquid nitrogen, and then being subjected to a freeze dryer for freeze-drying. The freeze-dried cosmetic compositions were made in tablet form with a weight of 50 mg. Example 2

This example demonstrates the results of a consumer test for the usage of freeze-dried tablet and sensory of the final skin care products.

The performance of the tablet A and 1 with aqueous cosmetic composition was conducted as a blind in a straight comparison. A group of seven testers were asked to mix tablets A and 1 (50 mg) with 0.1 g of serum in Table 2 (ACC of the present invention) separately to produce end use skin care products A and 1. Then, end use skin care products A and 1 were applied on the backs of the hands respectively. The in-use sensory and post-use sensory of skin care products A, 1 and the serum of Table 2 were compared. Table 2

a: Aristoflex^® AVC, supplied by Clariant

Tablet 1 was compared in a straight comparison against tablet A in relation to characteristics including dissolution rate of tablet, in-use sensory and post-use sensory of the end use skin care products. It was surprisingly found that all seven testers considered that the tablet 1 dissolves faster than tablet A. Five among seven testers considered the sensory for skin care product A was too oily and skin care product 1 provided watery and acceptable in-use sensory which was similar to the serum of Table 2. One tester had the opposite thought and one tester considered product 1 was on par with product A. Regarding post-use sensory, five among seven testers considered products A was draggy and sticky but product 1 was smooth and similar to the serum. One tester had the opposite thought and one tester considered product 1 was on par with product A. In general, six among seven testers favored product 1 and one favored product A.

Claims

1. A freeze-dried cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) 10 to 70% of water-soluble active by weight of the freeze-dried cosmetic composition;

(b) 10 to 50% of polyhydric alcohol by weight of the freeze-dried cosmetic composition; and

(c) 0.1 to 15% of galactomannan by weight of the freeze-dried cosmetic composition, wherein the water-soluble active is selected from Vitamin B2, Vitamin B3 (niacinamide), Vitamin B6, ascorbic acid, derivatives thereof, and a mixture thereof.

2. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the water-soluble active is selected from ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives, or a mixture thereof, preferably the water-soluble active is ascorbic acid.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the water-soluble active is present in amount of 25 to 60% by weight of the freeze-dried cosmetic composition, preferably 35 to 52% by weight of the freeze-dried cosmetic composition.

4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the polyhydric alcohol has at least three hydroxyl group, preferably the polyhydric alcohol is glycerin.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the polyhydric alcohol is present in amount of 18 to 38%, and preferably 22 to 32% by weight of the freeze-dried cosmetic composition.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the galactomannan is guar gum.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the galactomannan is present in amount of 0.5 to 12%, preferably 1.2 to 5% by weight of the freeze-dried cosmetic composition.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the weight ratio of the water-soluble active to the polyhydric alcohol is from 1 :3 to 8: 1 , preferably from 1 :1 to 3:1 and more preferably from 1.2:1 to 1 .8:1.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the weight ratio of the polyhydric alcohol to the galactomannan is from 1 :1 to 30:1 , preferably 2:1 to 20:1 , more preferably 5:1 to 15:1.

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition comprises disaccharide, preferably trehalose.

1 1 . The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition is substantially free of surfactant.

12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition is in form of powder or tablet.

13. Kit of parts for preparing a skin care product, the kit comprises a cosmetics container, a freeze-dried cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims and instruction for use of the kit.

14. Kit of parts according to claim 14 wherein the kit additionally comprises an aqueous cosmetic composition which is physically separate from free-dried cosmetic composition.

15. A skin care product obtainable by mixing the free-dried cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 12 and an aqueous cosmetic composition.