WO2018161691A1 - 二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料及其生产工艺 - Google Patents

二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料及其生产工艺 Download PDF

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WO2018161691A1
WO2018161691A1 PCT/CN2017/118672 CN2017118672W WO2018161691A1 WO 2018161691 A1 WO2018161691 A1 WO 2018161691A1 CN 2017118672 W CN2017118672 W CN 2017118672W WO 2018161691 A1 WO2018161691 A1 WO 2018161691A1
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weft
degrees
composite material
fabric
elastic composite
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PCT/CN2017/118672
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French (fr)
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晟合新材料科技（嘉善）有限公司
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N—WALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N7/00—Flexible sheet materials not otherwise provided for, e.g. textile threads, filaments, yarns or tow, glued on macromolecular material
    • D06N7/0092—Non-continuous polymer coating on the fibrous substrate, e.g. plastic dots on fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/28—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics propelled by, or with the aid of, jets of the treating material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N—WALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/0002—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate
    • D06N3/0009—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate using knitted fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N—WALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/0002—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate
    • D06N3/0015—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate using fibres of specified chemical or physical nature, e.g. natural silk
    • D06N3/0036—Polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N—WALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N2209/00—Properties of the materials
    • D06N2209/16—Properties of the materials having other properties
    • D06N2209/1628—Dimensional stability
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N—WALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N2209/00—Properties of the materials
    • D06N2209/16—Properties of the materials having other properties
    • D06N2209/1635—Elasticity

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the technical field of textiles, in particular to a two-needle flat-lined weft bidirectional elastic composite material and a production process thereof.
  • tissue elasticity means that the yarn is interlaced or woven to make a curve movement.
  • the yarn or the tissue has the deformability when subjected to the force and the tissue has the ability to return to the original state after the external force is removed.
  • the term "yarn elasticity” refers to the ability of the yarn itself to have a tensile elongation of the molecular structure or the structure of the yarn and to return to its original state after the external force is removed.
  • spandex PTT and other elastic yarns and DTY plus elastic yarns are raw materials for textiles.
  • the fabric has a poor recovery performance with a single tissue elasticity, the garment is insufficiently protected and the fit performance is insufficient. If the fabric adopts a single elastic material, under the action of a large external force, the creep deformation is obvious after repeated stress, and the shape retention performance is insufficient. Therefore, if the appropriate fabric structure plus material elastic fabric combination, and the appropriate finishing process, the finished fabric will have better elastic properties and shape retention properties. This fabric is also more comfortable to wear.
  • the two-way elastic lining products are mainly obtained by tempering the woven tissue (such as plain weave, twill or their composite structure - chaotic tissue) and polyester DTY material by pre-shrinking and dyeing and finishing.
  • These woven tissues are basically not capable of providing elastic deformation. They can only use DTY yarns or elastic materials such as spandex to obtain the final fabric elasticity. Elastic materials such as spandex are expensive, and the processes of weaving and finishing are difficult. It is difficult to control the quality of the products, and it is not cost-effective for fabrics such as garment linings.
  • the two-way elastic lining generally adopts the above-mentioned simple woven structures, and the warp and weft yarns are woven with DTY materials with relatively low network degree and low twist, and the polyester DTY material is particularly common, and the dyeing and setting is appropriately pre-shrinked. Finished to obtain elasticity, and then coated to become a finished fabric.
  • the lining cloth is generally relatively light and soft and soft, so the warp and weft density of the fabric is relatively sparse, the fabric tightness is relatively low, under the action of a large external force, the position of the warp and weft yarn node will move, and the external force will not be returned. The original location, the appearance of the product is easily destroyed.
  • the elasticity of the yarn produced by the deformation of the yarn during the pre-shrinking of the DTY material is relatively small, and the creep deformation is obvious after the force is applied, so that the resistance to repeated stress and the shape retention ability are poor.
  • the fabric yarn can be selected from nylon DTY with better elastic deformation ability, DTY material with PBT material, or DTY yarn with better PTT material, or even directly using spandex material, but their processing difficulty and material availability are easy to obtain. And the cost performance is greatly limited in the promotion of lining products.
  • the present invention provides a production process of a two-needle flat-lined weft bidirectional elastic composite material.
  • the invention provides a production process of a two-needle flat-lined weft bidirectional elastic composite material, comprising the following steps:
  • Step S1 Weaving: Polyester DTY filament with the specification between 15D-100D is used as the warp material, and polyester DTY filament with the specification between 15D-600D is used as the weft material, on the full-width weft warp knitting machine, the warp yarn
  • the warp direction density is 7.5-13/cm
  • the weft density of the weft yarn is 6-25/cm.
  • the full-width weft-inserted warp knitting machine has two needle-shaped flat tissue discs, which are woven with a single comb. The needle is passed through a plain weft fabric;
  • Step S2 pre-shrinking refining or overflow pre-shrinking dyeing by using an overflow dyeing machine, wherein the pre-shrinking refining is used to produce a white two-needle flat-lined weft fabric, and the overflow pre-shrinking dyeing is used to produce two needles that need to be dyed.
  • the pre-shrinking refining is used to produce a white two-needle flat-lined weft fabric
  • the overflow pre-shrinking dyeing is used to produce two needles that need to be dyed.
  • Step S3 stereotype: arranging a setting aid in the fixed rolling mill, and then impregnating the styling agent with the grey cloth treated by the overflow dyeing machine and drying and shaping;
  • Step S4 Gluing: The shaped grey fabric is placed in a double-point coating machine, and one side of the finalized grey cloth is first subjected to slurry coating, then powder coating processing, followed by blowing powder, and in the drying room. The medium heating melts the powdered hot melt adhesive powder and bonds with the slurry coating to obtain a two-needle flat weft-two-way elastic composite material.
  • the pre-shrinking refining process comprises: when the water temperature in the liquid tank of the overflow dyeing machine is raised to 84-92 degrees, the two-needle flat-lined weft fabric is fed, and after the temperature is kept for 10 minutes, the temperature is lowered to 80 degrees.
  • the refining aid is added into the liquid tank of the overflow dyeing machine to form a refining liquid. After adding the refining aid, the temperature is raised to 120-125 degrees, the temperature is kept for 15-20 minutes, and then the temperature is lowered to 80 degrees according to the speed of 2 ° C/min.
  • the formulation of the refining liquid is: a multifunctional refining agent BL-806, 1.2 g/l; Deoiling TF101, 1.5 g/l; a tablet alkali NaOH, 0.5 g/l; the balance being water.
  • the process of overflow pre-shrinking dyeing comprises: firstly de-oiling the two-needle flat-lined weft fabric with a degreasing aid, and after de-oiling the two-needle flat fabric, the liquid tank of the overflow dyeing machine The water temperature rises to 84-92 degrees into the two-needle flat-lined weft grey cloth, and the two-needle flat-lined weft grey cloth enters the temperature and then heats up to 94 degrees for 15 minutes, then cools to 80 degrees below the drainage, and then dyes in the overflow.
  • the machine is filled with water, then heated to 68-70 degrees while adding the dye and dyeing assistant; after adding the dyeing assistant, the temperature is raised to 130 degrees according to the heating rate of 1.5 ° C / min, and kept for 30 minutes, then 1.5 ° C / min. Cool down to 80 degrees, add reducing cleaning agent DS-1559 and sheet alkali NaOH, then heat to 85-90 ° C for reduction cleaning and heat preservation for 25 minutes; then cool down to 70 degrees drain; then the hot water is heated to 60 degrees wash 15 Minutes, draining; then warm water was added to glacial acetic acid for 15 minutes, and the amount of glacial acetic acid was 0.5 g/l.
  • the formulation of the degreasing aid is as follows: deoiling TF101, 2 g/l; soda ash NaCO3, 4 g/l; the balance being water.
  • the dyeing auxiliary formula is as follows: level dyeing and dispersing chelate three-in-one multi-effect dyeing agent, 1.5-2 g/l; dyeing acid DA, 0.6-0.8 g/l.
  • the amount of the original cleaning agent DS-1559 is 1-2 g/l, and the amount of the caustic soda NaOH is 1 g/l.
  • the formulation of the styling aid is: silicone oil TF-438, 25 g / l; fibronectin CST, 10 g / l; antistatic agent SN-1, 1.5 g / l; glacial acetic acid, 0.5-1 g / l,
  • the rest is water; the parameters of the shaping process are as follows: the vehicle speed is 40-50 m/min, the exit door width is 156-157 cm, and the setting temperature is 195-202 degrees.
  • the parameters of the double-dot coating process are as follows: a plasma-coated round mesh with a random arrangement of computers is selected, the density of the glue dots is in the range of 13-200 dots/cm 2 , and the coating amount is 4-15 g/square meter. .
  • the invention also provides a two-needle flat-lined weft bidirectional elastic composite material, which is processed by the above-mentioned two-needle flat-lined weft bidirectional elastic composite material production process.
  • the two-needle flat bidirectional elastic composite material and the processing technology thereof have the following advantages:
  • the fabric structure formed by the two-needle flat weft-inserted structure in the warp-knitted structure has good warp and weft deformation and elongation ability, and the knitted loop structure has a very stable force recovery performance, and the obtained interlining has Good shape retention.
  • the warp-knitted weft structure further stabilizes the latitudinal force performance, and the fabric structure is more stable under the premise of deformability.
  • the warp and weft yarn raw materials are made of DTY elastic yarn, especially polyester DTY yarn.
  • the raw materials are convenient to supply, the price is low, and the performance is excellent.
  • the woven fabric is easily pre-shrinked during the overflow dyeing and refining process to obtain a better elasticity of the fabric. The above two points can sufficiently obtain the good elasticity and shape retention properties of the adhesive liner.
  • E40 to E32 needle-punched warp-knitted two-needle flat weft-inserted structure can be used to facilitate the blending of warp and weft on the warp yarn after the combination of different thickness warp and weft yarns, and more effectively prevent the weft yarn in the dyeing and finishing process.
  • the pilling phenomenon occurs. Its anti-backup performance is also superior to the now common polyester warp-knitted low-elastic lining.
  • 1 is a flow chart showing the production process of the two-needle flat bidirectional elastic composite material of the present invention.
  • the present invention provides a production process of a two-needle flat-lined weft bidirectional elastic composite material comprising the following steps:
  • Step S1 Weaving: Polyester DTY filament with the specification between 15D-100D is used as the warp material, and polyester DTY filament with the specification between 15D-600D is used as the weft material, on the full-width weft warp knitting machine, the warp yarn
  • the warp direction density is 7.5-13/cm
  • the weft density of the weft yarn is 6-25/cm.
  • the full-width weft-inserted warp knitting machine has two needle-shaped flat tissue discs, which are woven with a single comb. The needle is passed through a plain weft fabric.
  • Step S2 pre-shrinking refining or overflow pre-shrinking dyeing using an overflow dyeing machine.
  • pre-shrinking refining is used to produce a white two-needle flat fabric
  • overflow pre-shrinking dyeing is used to produce a two-needle plain weft fabric which needs to be dyed.
  • the process of pre-shrinking refining includes: when the water temperature in the liquid tank of the overflow dyeing machine is raised to 84-92 degrees, the two-needle flat-lined weft fabric is fed, and after being kept for 10 minutes, the temperature is lowered to 80 degrees while overflowing.
  • the refining aid is added into the liquid tank of the flow dyeing machine to form a refining liquid.
  • the formula of the refining liquid is: multifunctional refining agent BL-806, 1.2 g/l; deoiling spirit TF101, 1.5 g/l; 0.5 g / l; the rest is water.
  • the temperature is raised to 120-125 degrees, the temperature is kept for 15-20 minutes, then the temperature is lowered to 80 degrees at 2 ° C / min and drained, and then 60 ° hot water is injected into the tank of the overflow dyeing machine. After 15 minutes of circulating water washing, the water is drained. Finally, 35-40 degrees of hot water is injected into the liquid tank of the overflow dyeing machine while adding glacial acetic acid. After pickling for 15 minutes, it is discharged into the next process, wherein the amount of glacial acetic acid is 0.5 g/ l. It should be noted that the main purpose of the refining liquid of the formula is to refine the degreasing.
  • the process of overflow pre-shrinkage dyeing includes: firstly de-oiling the two-needle flat-lined weft fabric, the oil-removing formula is as follows: Deoiling TF101, 2g/l; soda ash NaCO3, 4g/l; the rest is water. After de-oiling the two-needle flat-lined weft grey cloth, the water temperature of the overflow dyeing machine is increased to 84-92 degrees into the two-needle flat grey cloth, and the two-needle flat-lined weft grey cloth is finished and then heated to 94 degrees.
  • the dyeing auxiliaries are formulated as follows: leveling and dispersion Chelate three-in-one multi-effect dye, 1.5-2g / l, level dyeing and dispersing chelate three-in-one multi-effect dye is preferably Shanghai Huibini BL106; dye acid DA is Demei products, 0.6-0.8g /l; the rest is water.
  • the temperature is raised to 130 degrees according to the heating rate of 1.5 ° C / min, the temperature is kept for 30 minutes, and then the temperature is lowered to 80 degrees according to 1.5 ° C / min, and the reducing cleaning agent DS-1559 (manufactured by Demei Company) and the alkali NaOH are added.
  • the reducing cleaning agent DS-1559 manufactured by Demei Company
  • the alkali NaOH are added.
  • Step S3 Stereotype: The shaping aid is arranged in the stereotyped rolling mill, and then the grey fabric treated by the overflow dyeing machine is padded with the setting aid and dried and shaped.
  • the formulation of the setting aid is: silicone oil TF-438, 25g / l; fibrin CST, 10g / l; antistatic agent SN-1, 1.5g / l; glacial acetic acid, 0.5-1g / l, the rest is water .
  • the parameters of the shaping process are as follows: the vehicle speed is 40-50m/min, the exit door width is 156-157cm, and the setting temperature is 195-202 degrees.
  • Step S4 Gluing: The shaped grey fabric is placed in a double-point coating machine, and one side of the finalized grey cloth is first subjected to slurry coating, then powder coating processing, followed by blowing powder, and in the drying room.
  • the medium heating melts the powdered hot melt adhesive powder and bonds with the slurry coating to obtain a two-needle flat weft-two-way elastic composite material.
  • the parameters of the double-point coating process are as follows: a pulp-coated round mesh with a random arrangement of computers is selected, the density of the glue dots ranges from 13 to 200 points/cm 2 , and the coating amount is 4-15 g/m 2 .
  • Step S5 Sampling test: extracting the two-needle flat two-way elastic composite material, judging the width of the two-needle flat bidirectional elastic composite material, the square gram weight, whether the coating amount is up to standard; whether the spot shape is complete under the violet light Whether the coating is uniform; at 140 degrees, apply a pressure of 2.5kg/cm2 to the sample for 12 seconds to determine whether the warp and weft interlayer heat shrinkage is up to standard; then the sample is bonded to the standard fabric to determine that the sample is adhered to the standard fabric. Whether the set condition is met. It should be noted that the conditions set by the sampling test are different according to the samples of the two-needle flat-lined weft bidirectional elastic composite material made of different materials, which will be described in detail below.
  • Step S6 grading packaging for inspection cloth: the sample is bonded to the standard fabric and subjected to a 40-degree water washing test to determine whether the residual peel strength is up to standard, and whether the appearance is no problem; after the sample is bonded to the standard fabric and subjected to 5 dry cleaning tests, it is judged Whether the peeling strength is up to standard and whether the appearance is no problem.
  • the white two-needle plain weft woven fabric processed by the present invention is refined and shaped, various suitable patterns can be printed by a thermal transfer process, and then the above-mentioned doubles are performed on the non-printed surface.
  • the point coating is also suitable for printing composite linings for various double-sided applications. After the fabric is compounded, various fashions can be made. The lining can be omitted or combined with the thin knitted fabric to prevent deformation of the fabric, suitable for knitting, and convenient for fashion. Production.
  • the warp yarn is made of polyester filament DTY 75D/72F low elastic light mesh material
  • the weft yarn is made of ply high-shrinkage polyester filament DTY 150D/144F x2 (equivalent to 300D/288F).
  • the upper door width is 210cm
  • the upper weft density is 7.75/cm
  • the two-needle flat tissue disk is used (the two-needle flat tissue disk is preferably GB1:12). /10), weaving into a two-needle flat weft woven fabric by weaving with a single comb section.
  • the purpose of using the plied weft yarn is to obtain a smoother appearance and a softer hand feeling for a lower weft density, so that the coverage of the two-needle flat-lined weft fabric is better.
  • the length of the lower fabric is preferably about 650 meters, so that the overflow dyeing machine has exactly one piece of cloth per tube.
  • the 180 degree dry heat latitudinal shrinkage rate is ⁇ 2%.
  • the shape of the two-needle flat fabric after setting is flat, the hand feels soft and smooth, the elasticity is good, and there is no obvious curling phenomenon.
  • the finalized fabric can be used as a high-grade lining.
  • the parameters are computer designed random chaotic dot network cp40 (ie 40 holes / cm2), aperture 0.40-0.45mm, wall thickness 0.17-0.2mm.
  • the hot melt adhesive for dusting is the 6150 grade 80-170um particle size produced by Shanghai Tianyang Hot Melt Adhesive Co., Ltd.; the base pulp is selected from Shanghai Zhongyida Company's polyacrylate emulsion YD-760 grade, with a solid content of 40%.
  • the base slurry needs to be prepared: the clean tap water and the YD-760 polyacrylate emulsion are prepared according to the solid content of 20-25%. After stirring evenly, add appropriate thickener and ammonia water and stir well. The base of a certain viscosity is reserved.
  • the coating production starts, the speed is 20-30m/min, the coating amount of the base slurry is controlled at 3-6g/m2, and the hot melt adhesive is sprayed.
  • the amount of the layer is 8-10 g/m2, so that the total coating amount is 11-16 g/m2.
  • the coating amount of this variety is preferably 12-14 g/m2.
  • the thus coated web has a width of 153-155 cm and a square gram weight of 102-105 g/m2.
  • the square gram weight In addition to the width of the door, the square gram weight, the coating amount, it is also necessary to observe whether the spot type is complete under the violet light, whether the coating is uniform, 140 degrees 12 seconds 2.5kg / Under the condition of cm2, the heat shrinkage of the warp and weft interlayer is less than 1.6%, and the superior product is less than 1%.
  • the adhesion test was carried out on the wool polyester standard fabric under the above-mentioned bonding conditions, the peeling strength was greater than 25 N/5 cm, and the interlayer test back penetration was less than 1 N/5 cm.
  • the product is then inspected and packaged according to customer requirements and processed according to quality.
  • the coating quality inspection in addition to the test content of the coating process, it is also required to detect the color fastness needs to be greater than three grades, and after bonding with the standard wool polyester test fabric, 40 degrees of water washing test is performed, and the remaining peeling strength is greater than 10N/5CM.
  • the appearance flatness is not less than 3 grades; after 5 dry cleaning tests, the peeling strength is greater than 12N/5cm, and the appearance flatness is 3 or more. Those who meet the above criteria can be sold as qualified products.
  • This product is suitable for use with thicker soft elastic fabrics as the main lining, suitable for making soft and comfortable clothing for autumn and winter.
  • the warp yarn is made of polyester filament DTY 50D/48F low-elastic light-weight mesh material
  • the weft yarn is made of high-shrinkage polyester filament DTY 150D/96F.
  • the upper door width is 210cm.
  • the weft density of the machine is 8.75/cm
  • the two-needle flat tissue disc (the two-needle flat tissue disc is preferably GB1:12/10), which is woven into a two-needle flat weft by weaving with a single comb. Grey cloth.
  • the length of the lower fabric is preferably about 800 meters, so that the overflow dyeing machine has exactly one piece of cloth per tube.
  • the two needles pass through the weft and weft density of the flat fabric (12.7-13) x (11.2-11.8) roots/cm, the squaregram weight after the shaping is 54-56g/m2, and the water repellency is 70-80.
  • the 180 degree dry heat latitudinal shrinkage rate is ⁇ 2%.
  • the finalized fabric can be used as a high-grade lining.
  • the parameters are computer designed random chaotic dot network cp66 (ie 66 holes / cm2), aperture 0.32-0.35mm, wall thickness 0.17-0.2mm.
  • the hot melt adhesive for dusting is the 6150 grade 80-170um particle size produced by Shanghai Tianyang Hot Melt Adhesive Co., Ltd.; the base pulp is selected from Shanghai Zhongyida Company's polyacrylate emulsion YD-760 grade, with a solid content of 40%.
  • the base slurry needs to be prepared: the clean tap water and the YD-760 polyacrylate emulsion are prepared according to the solid content of 20-25%, and the mixture is uniformly stirred, and then uniformly stirred and uniformly mixed to form a certain viscosity.
  • the base is ready for use.
  • the double-point coating machine When the product is glued, on the double-point coating machine, first put a good cloth, install the cp66 round net pump into the prepared 760 base slurry, add the appropriate 6150 double-point dusting powder to the dusting machine powder bucket, open Double-point machine blown powder suction device, when the drying room is heated to 170-185 degrees, the coating production starts, the speed is 20-30m/min, the coating amount of the base slurry is controlled at 3-4g/m2, and the hot melt adhesive is sprayed.
  • the amount of the layer is 8-10 g/m2, so that the total coating amount is 11-14 g/m2.
  • the coating amount of this variety is preferably 12-13 g/m2.
  • the thus coated web has a width of 153-155 cm and a square gram weight of 66-70 g/m2.
  • the square gram weight When coating, it is necessary to sample and test its key quality indicators in the field: in addition to the width of the door, the square gram weight, the coating amount, it is also necessary to observe whether the spot type is complete under the violet light, whether the coating is uniform, 140 degrees 12 seconds 2.5kg / Under the condition of cm2, the heat shrinkage of the warp and weft interlayer is less than 1.6%, and the superior product is less than 1%.
  • the adhesion test was carried out on the wool polyester standard fabric under the above-mentioned bonding conditions, the peeling strength was greater than 22 N/5 cm, and the interlayer test back penetration was less than 1 N/5 cm.
  • the product is then inspected and packaged according to customer requirements and processed according to quality.
  • the coating quality inspection in addition to the test content of the coating process, it is also required to detect the color fastness needs to be greater than three grades, and after bonding with the standard wool polyester test fabric, 40 degrees of water washing test is performed, and the remaining peeling strength is greater than 10N/5CM.
  • the appearance flatness is not less than 3 grades; after 5 dry cleaning tests, the peeling strength is greater than 10N/5cm, and the appearance flatness is 3 or more. Those who meet the above criteria can be sold as qualified products.
  • This product is suitable for use with the general thick soft elastic fabric as the main lining, suitable for making autumn and winter comfortable suits or uniforms.
  • the warp yarn is made of polyester filament DTY 30D/36F (we can also choose 30D/24F DTY, but the finished hand feels slightly harder, it has better anti-pilling performance) low-elastic light mesh material, and the weft yarn adopts the high-shrinkage polyester filament of the strand.
  • DTY 75D/72F on the KA MAYER weft knitting machine E24 needle model, the upper door width is 210cm, the upper weft density is 12.25/cm, and the two-needle flat tissue disk is used (the two-needle flat tissue disk) It is preferably GB1:12/10), which is woven with a single comb section and is woven into a two-needle flat weft woven fabric.
  • the length of the lower fabric is about 1050 meters, so that the overflow dyeing machine has exactly one piece of cloth per tube.
  • the warp and weft density (12.7-13) x (15.5-16) root/cm of the two-needle flat-lined weft fabric is set, the square gram weight is 35-37g/m2 after setting, and the water repellency is 70. -80, 180 degree dry heat latitudinal shrinkage rate ⁇ 2% under tension without tension.
  • the appearance of the cloth should be flat, the hand feels soft and smooth, the elasticity is good, and there is no obvious curling phenomenon.
  • the finalized fabric can be used as a high-grade lining.
  • the parameters are computer designed random chaotic dot network cp90 (ie 90 holes / cm2), aperture 0.22-0.25mm, wall thickness 0.17-0.19mm.
  • the hot melt adhesive for dusting is the 6200 grade 80-170um particle size produced by Shanghai Tianyang Hot Melt Adhesive Co., Ltd.; the base pulp is selected from Shanghai Zhongyida Company's polyacrylate emulsion YD-458 grade, solid content 36-38% . This base can be more washable.
  • the double-dot coating process is to prepare the base slurry: the clean tap water and the YD-760 polyacrylate emulsion are prepared according to the solid content of 20-25%, and the mixture is evenly stirred, then the appropriate thickener and ammonia water are added to stir evenly, and the blending is uniform. The base of the viscosity is ready for use.
  • the double-point coating machine When the product is glued, on the double-point coating machine, first put a good cloth, install the cp90 round net pump into the blended 458 base slurry, add the appropriate 6200 double-point dusting powder to the duster powder bucket, open Double-point machine blown powder suction device, when the drying room is heated to 170-185 degrees, the coating production starts, the speed is 20-30m/min, the coating amount of the base slurry is controlled at 2-3g/m2, and the hot melt adhesive is sprayed.
  • the layer amount is 5-7 g/m2, so that the total coating amount is 7-10 g/m2.
  • the coating amount of this variety is preferably 8-9 g/m2.
  • the thus coated web has a width of 153-155 cm and a square gram weight of 44-46 g/m2.
  • the square gram weight When coating, it is necessary to sample and test its key quality indicators in the field: in addition to the width of the door, the square gram weight, the coating amount, it is also necessary to observe whether the spot type is complete under the violet light, whether the coating is uniform, 140 degrees 12 seconds 2.5kg / Under the condition of cm2, the heat shrinkage of the warp and weft interlayer is less than 1.6%, and the superior product is less than 1%.
  • the adhesion test was carried out on the wool polyester standard fabric under the above-mentioned bonding conditions, the peeling strength was greater than 18 N/5 cm, and the interlayer test back penetration was less than 1.5 N/5 cm.
  • the product is then inspected and packaged according to customer requirements and processed according to quality.
  • the coating quality inspection in addition to the testing content of the coating process, it is also required to detect the color fastness needs to be greater than three grades, and after bonding with the standard wool polyester test fabric, 40 degrees of water washing test is performed, and the remaining peeling strength is greater than 12N/5CM.
  • the appearance flatness is not less than 3 grades; after 5 dry cleaning tests, the peeling strength is greater than 12N/5cm, and the appearance flatness is 3 or more. Those who meet the above criteria can be sold as qualified products.
  • This product is suitable for use with the lighter and thinner soft elastic fabric, and is used as the main lining. It is suitable for the soft and comfortable type of spring and autumn.
  • the warp yarn is made of polyester filament DTY 20D/24F low-elastic light mesh material
  • the weft yarn is made of high-shrinkage polyester filament DTY 20D/24F.
  • the upper door width is 210cm
  • the machine is on the machine.
  • the weft density is 21 pieces/cm
  • the two-needle flat tissue disk (the two-needle flat tissue disk is preferably GB1:12/10) is woven into a two-needle flat fabric by a single-comb-fitting method.
  • the length of the lower fabric is preferably about 1200 meters, so that the overflow dyeing machine has exactly one piece of cloth per tube.
  • the warp and weft density (14.5-15) x (26-28) roots/cm of the two-needle flat-lined weft fabric is set, the square gram weight is 23-24g/m2 after setting, and the water repellency is 70. -80, 180 degree dry heat latitudinal shrinkage rate ⁇ 2.5% under tension without tension.
  • the appearance of the cloth should be flat, the hand feels fine, soft and smooth, and the elasticity is good, and there is no obvious curling phenomenon.
  • the finalized fabric can be used as a high-grade lining.
  • the parameters are computer designed irregular random dot network cp130 (ie 130 holes / cm2), aperture 0.14-0.16mm, wall thickness 0.17-0.18mm.
  • the hot melt adhesive used for dusting is the 6200 grade 80-145um particle size produced by Shanghai Tianyang Hot Melt Adhesive Co., Ltd.; the base pulp is selected from Shanghai Zhongyida Company's polyurethane emulsion YD-368 grade with a solid content of 36%. This base is particularly washable.
  • the double-dot coating process is to prepare the base slurry first: the clean tap water and the YD-368 polyacrylate emulsion are prepared according to the solid content of 20-23%, and the mixture is evenly stirred, and then the appropriate thickener and ammonia water are added to be uniformly stirred and uniformly mixed. The base of the viscosity is ready for use.
  • the double-dot coating process is to first coat the base fabric with a rotary screen, and then evenly spread the hot melt adhesive powder in the department. When the product is glued, the cloth is first put on the double-point coating machine. Install cp130 round net pump into the well-mixed 368 base slurry, add appropriate 6200 double-point dusting powder to the dusting machine powder bucket, open the double-point machine to blow the powder suction device, and wait until the drying room heats up to 170-185 degrees. Coating production, the speed of 25-30m / min, the amount of primer coating is controlled at 1.5-2g / m2, the amount of hot melt adhesive coating is 4-6g / m2, so the total coating amount is 6-8g / m2.
  • the coating amount of this variety is preferably 6-7 g/m2.
  • the thus coated web has a width of 153-155 cm and a square gram weight of 29-30 g/m2.
  • the square gram weight, the coating amount it is also necessary to observe whether the spot type is complete under the violet light, whether the coating is uniform, 140 degrees 12 seconds 2.5kg / Under the condition of cm2, the heat shrinkage of the warp and weft interlayer is less than 1.6%, and the superior product is less than 1%.
  • the adhesion test was carried out on the wool polyester standard fabric under the above-mentioned bonding conditions, the peeling strength was more than 15 N/5 cm, and the interlayer test backing was less than 0.5 N/5 cm.
  • the product is then inspected and packaged according to customer requirements and processed according to quality.
  • the coating quality inspection in addition to the testing content of the coating process, it is also required to detect the color fastness needs to be greater than three grades, and after bonding with the standard wool polyester test fabric, the 40 degree wash test is carried out at 40 degrees, and the remaining peel strength is greater than 8N/5CM.
  • the appearance flatness is not less than 3 grades; after 5 dry cleaning tests, the peeling strength is greater than 10N/5cm, and the appearance flatness is 3 or more. Those who meet the above criteria can be sold as qualified products.
  • This product is suitable for use with very fine, light and soft elastic fabrics, as the main lining or for other small parts, suitable for making spring and summer thin fashion.
  • the invention also provides a two-needle flat-padded weft bidirectional elastic composite material produced by the above method.
  • the woven fabric formed by the two-needle flat weft-inserted weft in the weft-inserted warp-knitted structure has good warp and weft deformation and elongation ability, and the knitted loop structure has very stable force recovery performance.
  • the lining has good shape retention properties.
  • the warp-knitted weft structure further stabilizes the latitudinal force performance, and the fabric structure is more stable under the premise of deformability.
  • the warp and weft yarn raw materials are made of DTY elastic yarn, especially polyester DTY yarn.
  • the raw materials are convenient to supply, the price is low, and the performance is excellent.
  • the woven fabric of the woven fabric is easily pre-shrinked during the overflow dyeing and refining process to obtain a better elasticity of the fabric. The above two points can sufficiently obtain the good elasticity and shape retention properties of the adhesive liner.
  • E40 to E32 needle-punched warp-knitted two-needle flat weft-inserted structure can be used to facilitate the blending of warp and weft on the warp yarn after the combination of different thickness warp and weft yarns, and more effectively prevent the weft yarn in the dyeing and finishing process.
  • the pilling phenomenon occurs. Its anti-backup performance is also superior to the now common polyester warp-knitted low-elastic lining.

Abstract

本发明提供一种二针经平双向弹力复合材料的生产工艺，包括以下步骤：织布：采用规格在15D-100D之间的涤纶DTY长丝作为经纱材料，采用规格在15D-600D之间的涤纶DTY长丝作为纬纱材料，经纱上机经向密度为7.5-13根/cm，纬纱上机纬向密度为6-25根/cm，利用全幅衬纬经编机二针经平组织花盘，采用单梳节满穿织造即得二针经平衬纬坯布；利用溢流染色机预缩精炼或溢流预缩染色；定型以及涂胶。本发明的二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料的生产工艺所生产的二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料在经向和纬向均具有弹性，产品性能优越且成本低。本发明还涉及一种二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料。

Description

二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料及其生产工艺 技术领域
本发明涉及纺织技术领域，尤其涉及一种二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料及其生产工艺。
背景技术
从纺织学上知道，纺织品弹性来源有两大方向，组织弹性和材料弹性。所谓组织弹性是指纱线在交织或者编织是做曲线运动，成品中纱线或者组织在受力时具有变形能力和去除外力后组织具有回复原状能力。所谓纱线弹性是指纱线本身分子结构或者纱线结构上具有的受力伸长并且在外力消除后回复原状的能力。比如氨纶PTT等弹性丝和DTY加弹丝等为原材料的纺织品。一般说来如果织物采用单一组织弹性得到的回复性能较差，服装保型不足，合身性能也不够。如果织物采用单一弹性材料，在受到较大外力作用下，重复受力后蠕性变形明显，保型性能不足。因此，如果采用适当的织物组织加材料弹性的坯布性能组合，再加上适当的后整理工艺得到的成品织物的弹性性能和保型性能会更好。这种织物的穿着舒适性能也更佳。
目前，双向弹性的衬布产品主要是以梭织组织(如平纹，斜纹或者它们的复合组织—乱纹组织)和涤纶DTY材料通过预缩和染整定型再涂层而得到的产品。这些梭织组织本身基本是不提供弹性变形能力的，它只能采用DTY纱线或者使用氨纶等弹性材料来得到最终织物弹性。氨纶等弹性材料价格昂贵，整经织造后整理等工序都有一些难度，比较难以控制产品质量，而且对服装衬布等 这类织物来说性价比不高。现在双向弹性衬布一般都是采用上述简单的几种梭织组织，经纬纱都采用网络度和捻度都比较低的DTY材料织造，特别常见的是涤纶DTY材料，通过适当的预缩加染整定型整理而得到弹性，再经涂层成为衬布成品。它们的问题是：衬布一般都是比较轻薄柔软产品，因此织物经纬密度都比较稀疏，织物紧度比较低，在受较大外力作用下，经纬纱线节点位置会移动，外力消除后回不到原来位置，产品外观容易被破坏。而且，仅仅靠DTY材料在预缩时产生的纱线弯曲形变而储存的弹性是比较小的，受力后蠕性变形明显，因此抗重复受力性能和保型能力较差。当然，织物纱线可以选用弹性变形能力更佳的尼龙DTY，或者PBT材质的DTY材料，或者更佳的PTT材质的DTY纱线，甚至直接采用氨纶材料，但它们的加工难度及材料易获得性及性价比在衬布产品的推广上都受到很大限制。
发明内容
本发明为了克服现有技术的至少一个不足，提供一种二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料的生产工艺。
本发明提供一种二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料的生产工艺，包括以下步骤：
步骤S1：织布：采用规格在15D-100D之间的涤纶DTY长丝作为经纱材料，采用规格在15D-600D之间的涤纶DTY长丝作为纬纱材料，在全幅衬纬经编机上，经纱上机经向密度为7.5-13根/cm，纬纱上机纬向密度为6-25根/cm，利用全幅衬纬经编机二针经平组织花盘，采用单梳节满穿织造即得二针经平衬纬坯布；
步骤S2：利用溢流染色机预缩精炼或溢流预缩染色，其中，预缩精炼用于 生产白色的二针经平衬纬坯布，溢流预缩染色用于生产需要染色的二针经平衬纬坯布；
步骤S3：定型：在定型轧车内配置定型助剂，然后将经溢流染色机处理的坯布浸轧定型助剂并烘干定型；以及
步骤S4：涂胶：将定型后的坯布放入双点涂层机中，定型后的坯布的一面先进行浆点涂层，再进行撒粉涂层加工，然后进行吹粉，以及在烘房中加热使撒粉涂层的热熔胶粉熔化而与浆点涂层粘结，制得二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料。
进一步地，所述预缩精炼的过程包括：溢流染色机的液槽内的水温升高至84-92度时进二针经平衬纬坯布，保温10分钟后将温度降至80度同时向溢流染色机的液槽内加入精炼助剂形成精炼液，加入精炼助剂后将温度升高至120-125度，保温15-20分钟，然后按照2℃/min速度降温至80度并排水，再向溢流染色机的液槽内注入60度热水，循环水洗15分钟后排水，最后向溢流染色机的液槽内注入35-40度热水同时加入冰醋酸，酸洗15分钟后出布入下一道工序，其中冰醋酸用量为0.5g/l。
进一步地，所述精炼液的配方为：多功能精炼剂BL-806，1.2g/l；去油灵TF101，1.5g/l；片碱NaOH，0.5g/l；其余为水。
进一步地，所述溢流预缩染色的过程包括：首先使用除油助剂对二针经平衬纬坯布除油，在对二针经平坯布除油后，溢流染色机的液槽内的水温升高至84-92度进二针经平衬纬坯布，二针经平衬纬坯布进入完毕后升温至94度保温15分钟，然后降温至80度以下排水，然后在溢流染色机进水，然后升温至68-70度同时加入化好的染料和染色助剂；加入染色助剂后按照1.5℃/min的升温速率升温至130度，保温30分钟，然后按照1.5℃/min降温至80度，加入还原清洗 剂DS-1559和片碱NaOH，再升温至85-90℃进行还原清洗并保温25分钟；然后降温至70度排液；然后进热水升温至60度洗涤15分钟，排液；然后再进温水加入冰醋酸酸洗15分钟，其中冰醋酸用量为0.5g/l。
进一步地，所述除油助剂的配方如下：去油灵TF101，2g/l；纯碱NaCO3，4g/l；其余为水。
进一步地，所述染色助剂配方如下：匀染分散螯合三合一多效染色剂，1.5-2g/l；染色酸DA，0.6-0.8g/l。
进一步地，原清洗剂DS-1559用量为1-2g/l，片碱NaOH用量为1g/l。
进一步地，所述定型助剂的配方为：硅油TF-438，25g/l；纤柔素CST，10g/l；抗静电剂SN-1，1.5g/l；冰醋酸，0.5-1g/l，其余为水；所述定型工艺的参数如下：车速40-50m/min，出布门幅156-157cm，定型温度195-202度。
进一步地，所述双点涂层工艺的参数如下：选用计算机无规则布点的浆点涂层圆网，胶点密度范围在13-200点/平方厘米，涂层量在4-15g/平方米。
本发明还提供一种二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料，该二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料由上述的二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料生产工艺加工而成。
相较于现有技术，本发明二针经平双向弹力复合材料及其加工工艺具有以下优点：
1：采用经编组织中的二针经平衬纬组织形成的织物组织具有良好的经纬向变形伸长能力，同时这种针织线圈结构又有非常稳定的受力回复性能，所得到的衬布具有良好的保型性能。这种经编衬纬组织进一步稳定了纬向受力性能，在具有变形能力前提下，织物结构更稳定。
2：经纬纱原材料100％采用DTY弹力丝，特别是涤纶DTY丝，原材料供应方便，价格低廉，性能优良。它织成的坯布，很容易在溢流染色精炼过程中 预缩充分，从而获得织物较好的弹性。上述两点可以充分获得这种粘合衬的良好弹性和保型性能。
3：选用E20到E32针密的经编二针经平衬纬组织，可以方便调配不同粗细经纬纱组合时经线热处理膨化后在纬纱上的覆盖程度，更有效地防止纬纱纤维在染整加工过程中或者在衬布使用过程中勾丝起球现象。它的抗背透性能也优于现在常见的涤纶经编低弹衬。
4：这种原材料，织物组织，经纬纱粗细及经纬密组合而成的坯布可以通过最常见的溢流染整工艺设备加工，无需专用预缩工序或者专门的经轴染色工艺来处理，加工简便，成本低，能耗低，产品性能更优异。
附图说明
图1为本发明的二针经平双向弹力复合材料的生产工艺的流程图。
具体实施方式
下面将对本发明实施方式中的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述，显然，所描述的实施方式仅仅是本发明一部分实施方式，而不是全部的实施方式。基于本发明中的实施方式，本领域普通技术人员在没有作出创造性劳动前提下所获得的所有其他实施方式，都属于本发明保护的范围。
如图1所示，本发明提供一种二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料的生产工艺包括以下步骤：
步骤S1：织布：采用规格在15D-100D之间的涤纶DTY长丝作为经纱材料，采用规格在15D-600D之间的涤纶DTY长丝作为纬纱材料，在全幅衬纬经编机上，经纱上机经向密度为7.5-13根/cm，纬纱上机纬向密度为6-25根/cm，利用 全幅衬纬经编机二针经平组织花盘，采用单梳节满穿织造即得二针经平衬纬坯布。
需要说明的是，在织布之前需要将作为经纱材料的涤纶DTY长丝整经，整经需要注意经线盘头上每一根经线张力一致，平整度要好，否则严重影响织布工序的顺利进行，坯布质量容易出现问题。必要时需要在整经同时给经线适当添加一些油剂，防止经丝相互粘连，也可以减少静电，影响后续穿纱织布的顺利进行
步骤S2：利用溢流染色机预缩精炼或溢流预缩染色。需要说明的是，预缩精炼用于生产白色的二针经平坯布，溢流预缩染色用于生产需要染色的二针经平衬纬坯布。
其中，预缩精炼的过程包括：溢流染色机的液槽内的水温升高至84-92度时进二针经平衬纬坯布，保温10分钟后将温度降至80度同时向溢流染色机的液槽内加入精炼助剂形成精炼液，其中，精炼液的配方为：多功能精炼剂BL-806，1.2g/l；去油灵TF101，1.5g/l；片碱NaOH，0.5g/l；其余为水。加入精炼助剂后将温度升高至120-125度，保温15-20分钟，然后按照2℃/min速度降温至80度并排水，再向溢流染色机的液槽内注入60度热水，循环水洗15分钟后排水，最后向溢流染色机的液槽内注入35-40度热水同时加入冰醋酸，酸洗15分钟后出布入下一道工序，其中冰醋酸用量为0.5g/l。需要说明的是，该配方的精炼液主要目的是为了精炼除油。
溢流预缩染色的过程包括：首先对二针经平衬纬坯布除油，除油配方如下：去油灵TF101，2g/l；纯碱NaCO3，4g/l；其余为水。在对二针经平衬纬坯布除油后，溢流染色机的水温升高至84-92度进二针经平坯布，二针经平衬纬坯布进入完毕后升温至94度保温15分钟，然后降温至80度以下排水，然后溢流染色 机进水，然后升温至68度加入染料和染色助剂，其中，染料配方根据色样打样配方确定，染色助剂配方如下：匀染分散螯合三合一多效染色剂，1.5-2g/l，匀染分散螯合三合一多效染色剂优选为上海协必宁公司BL106；染色酸DA是德美公司产品，0.6-0.8g/l；其余为水。加入助剂后按照1.5℃/min的升温速率升温至130度，保温30分钟，然后按照1.5℃/min降温至80度，加入还原清洗剂DS-1559(德美公司生产)和片碱NaOH，再升温至85-90℃进行还原清洗并保温25分钟，其中，原清洗剂DS-1559用量为1-2g/l，片碱NaOH用量为1g/l；然后降温至70度排液；然后进热水升温至60度洗涤15分钟，排液。然后再进温水加入冰醋酸酸洗15分钟，其中冰醋酸用量为0.5g/l，最后出布放在布车中进入下一道工序。
需要说明的是，在进行定型工艺前通常需要将将经过溢流预缩精炼或者染色的底布进行脱水处理，再经过开幅工序放在布车中等待定型。
步骤S3：定型：在定型轧车内配置定型助剂，然后将经溢流染色机处理的坯布浸轧定型助剂并烘干定型。
其中，定型助剂的配方为：硅油TF-438，25g/l；纤柔素CST，10g/l；抗静电剂SN-1，1.5g/l；冰醋酸，0.5-1g/l，其余为水。
定型工艺的参数如下：车速40-50m/min，出布门幅156-157cm，定型温度195-202度。
步骤S4：涂胶：将定型后的坯布放入双点涂层机中，定型后的坯布的一面先进行浆点涂层，再进行撒粉涂层加工，然后进行吹粉，以及在烘房中加热使撒粉涂层的热熔胶粉熔化而与浆点涂层粘结，制得二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料。其中，双点涂层工艺的参数如下：选用计算机无规则布点的浆点涂层圆网，胶点密度范围在13-200点/平方厘米，涂层量在4-15g/平方米。
步骤S5：抽样检测：抽取二针经平双向弹力复合材料成品，判断二针经平双向弹力复合材料成品的门幅，平方克重，涂层量是否达标；在紫光灯下观察点型是否完整，涂层是否均匀；在140度下，对样品施加2.5kg/cm2的压力，持续12秒，判断经纬向夹层热缩是否达标；然后使样品与标准面料粘合固定，判断样品与标准面料粘合是否满足设定条件。需要说明的是，根据不同材料制成的二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料的样品，抽样检测所设定的条件不同，下面将详细叙述。
步骤S6：验布分级包装：样品与标准面料粘合后进行40度3次水洗试验，判断剩余剥离强度是否达标，外观是否无问题；样品与标准面料粘合后进行5次干洗试验后，判断剥离强力是否达标，外观是否无问题。需要说明的是，根据不同材料制成的二针经平双向弹力复合材料的样品，验布分级包装所设定的条件不同，下面将详细叙述。
需要说明的是，如果通过本发明加工成的白色的二针经平衬纬坯布在精炼定型后，可以通过热转印工艺印上各种适合的花型，然后再在非印花面进行上述双点涂层，也适合用于各种双面用途的印花复合衬，于面料复合后再制作各种时装，可以省去里布或者与薄型针织面料复合防止面料变形，适合针织外穿，方便时装制作。
产品一：W3T90-04D
经纱采用涤纶长丝DTY 75D/72F低弹轻网材料，纬纱采用合股的高收缩涤纶长丝DTY 150D/144F x2(相当于300D/288F)。在卡尔迈耶全幅衬纬经编机E24针机型上，上机门幅210cm，上机纬密7.75根/cm，利用二针经平组织花盘(该二针经平组织花盘优选GB1：12/10)，采用单梳节满穿方式织布即编织成二针经平衬纬坯布。采用合股纬纱的目的是为了更低的纬密就可以得到成品外观 更平整，手感更柔软，使二针经平衬纬坯布的覆盖度更好。考虑到后续溢流染色工序工人操作方便，下机坯布长度650米左右为佳，这样溢流染色机每管刚好一匹坯布。
该产品在经过定型工艺后，二针经平衬纬坯布的经纬密(12.7-13)x(9.9-10)根/cm，平方克重在88-90g/m2，拒水度在70-80，在无张力状态下，180度干热经纬向收缩率<2％。定型后的二针经平坯布的布面外观平整，手感柔软滑爽，弹性良好，无明显卷边现象。
定型后的坯布再经过涂胶可以作为高档衬布使用，在对坯布进行涂胶工艺时，根据这种坯布产品的最终用途，其涂层的胶点密度和胶点排列方式，选择的圆网规格参数是经过计算机设计无规则乱点圆网cp40(即40个孔点/cm2)，孔径0.40-0.45mm，壁厚0.17-0.2mm。撒粉用的热熔胶是上海天洋热熔胶有限公司生产的6150牌号80-170um粒径；底浆选用上海众义达公司的聚丙烯酸脂乳液YD-760牌号，固含量40％。
在开始涂胶工艺时需要先准备底浆：将干净自来水与YD-760聚丙烯酸酯乳液按照固含量20-25％调配好，搅拌均匀后加入适当增稠剂和氨水再充分搅拌均匀，调配成一定粘度的底浆备用。
在对该产品进行涂胶时，在双点涂层机上，先穿好坯布，装好cp40圆网泵入调配好的760底浆，撒粉机粉斗中加入适当6150双点撒粉，打开双点机吹吸粉装置，待烘房升温至170-185度左右，开始涂层生产，车速20-30m/min，底浆涂层量控制在3-6g/m2，热熔胶撒粉涂层量在8-10g/m2，这样总涂层量11-16g/m2。这个品种的涂层量我们优选12-14g/m2。这样涂层后的门幅在153-155cm，平方克重在102-105g/m2。涂层时需要在现场取样检测其关键质量指标：除门幅，平方克重，涂层量外，还需要在紫光灯下观察点型是否完整， 涂层是否均匀，140度12秒2.5kg/cm2条件下经纬向夹层热缩是否满足都小于1.6％，优等品要小于1％。在上述粘合条件下在毛涤标准面料上进行粘合测试，剥离强力大于25N/5cm，夹层测试背透小于1N/5cm。
涂层后的产品再去验布机按客户要求分卷包装和按照质量分级处理。
涂层后的质量检验除了涂层工序的测试内容外，还需要检测色牢度需要大于三级，与标准毛涤测试面料粘合后进行40度3次水洗试验，剩余剥离强度大于10N/5CM，外观平整度不低于3级；5次干洗试验后，剥离强力大于12N/5cm，外观平整度3级以上。符合上述标准的，都可以作为合格品销售。
该产品很适合与较厚重的柔软弹性面料配伍，作主衬使用，适合制作秋冬柔软舒适型服装。
产品二：W3T55-06D
经纱采用涤纶长丝DTY 50D/48F低弹轻网材料，纬纱采用合股的高收缩涤纶长丝DTY 150D/96F，在卡尔迈耶衬纬经编机E24针机型上，上机门幅210cm，上机纬密8.75根/cm，利用二针经平组织花盘(该二针经平组织花盘优选GB1：12/10)，采用单梳节满穿方式织布即编织成二针经平衬纬坯布。考虑到后续溢流染色工序工人操作方便，下机坯布长度800米左右为佳，这样溢流染色机每管刚好一匹坯布。
该产品在经过定型工艺后，二针经平坯布的经纬密(12.7-13)x(11.2-11.8)根/cm，定型后平方克重在54-56g/m2，拒水度在70-80，定型后无张力状态下，180度干热经纬向收缩率<2％。定型后布面外观要平整，手感柔软滑爽，弹性良好，无明显卷边现象。
定型后的坯布再经过涂胶可以作为高档衬布使用，在对坯布进行涂胶工艺时，根据这种坯布产品的最终用途，其涂层的胶点密度和胶点排列方式，选择 的圆网规格参数是经过计算机设计无规则乱点圆网cp66(即66个孔点/cm2)，孔径0.32-0.35mm，壁厚0.17-0.2mm。撒粉用的热熔胶是上海天洋热熔胶有限公司生产的6150牌号80-170um粒径；底浆选用上海众义达公司的聚丙烯酸脂乳液YD-760牌号，固含量40％。
在开始涂胶工艺时需要先准备底浆：将干净自来水与YD-760聚丙烯酸酯乳液按照固含量20-25％调配好，进行搅拌均匀后加入适当增稠剂充分搅拌均匀，调配成一定粘度的底浆备用。
在对该产品进行涂胶时，在双点涂层机上，先穿好布，装好cp66圆网泵入调配好的760底浆，撒粉机粉斗中加入适当6150双点撒粉，打开双点机吹吸粉装置，待烘房升温至170-185度左右，开始涂层生产，车速20-30m/min，底浆涂层量控制在3-4g/m2，热熔胶撒粉涂层量在8-10g/m2，这样总涂层量11-14g/m2。这个品种的涂层量我们优选12-13g/m2。这样涂层后的门幅在153-155cm，平方克重在66-70g/m2。涂层时需要在现场取样检测其关键质量指标：除门幅，平方克重，涂层量外，还需要在紫光灯下观察点型是否完整，涂层是否均匀，140度12秒2.5kg/cm2条件下经纬向夹层热缩是否满足都小于1.6％，优等品要小于1％。在上述粘合条件下在毛涤标准面料上进行粘合测试，剥离强力大于22N/5cm，夹层测试背透小于1N/5cm。
涂层后的产品再去验布机按客户要求分卷包装和按照质量分级处理。
涂层后的质量检验除了涂层工序的测试内容外，还需要检测色牢度需要大于三级，与标准毛涤测试面料粘合后进行40度3次水洗试验，剩余剥离强度大于10N/5CM，外观平整度不低于3级；5次干洗试验后，剥离强力大于10N/5cm，外观平整度3级以上。符合上述标准的，都可以作为合格品销售。
该产品很适合与一般厚重的柔软弹性面料配伍，作主衬使用，适合制作秋 冬舒适型西服或制服类服装。
产品三：W3T36-09D
经纱采用涤纶长丝DTY 30D/36F(我们也可以选择30D/24F DTY，只是成品手感稍微硬一点点，它抗起球性能更好)低弹轻网材料，纬纱采用合股的高收缩涤纶长丝DTY 75D/72F，在卡尔迈耶衬纬经编机E24针机型上，上机门幅210cm，上机纬密12.25根/cm，利用二针经平组织花盘(该二针经平组织花盘优选GB1：12/10)，采用单梳节满穿方式织布，编织成二针经平衬纬坯布。考虑到后续溢流染色工序工人操作方便，下机坯布长度1050米左右为佳，这样溢流染色机每管刚好一匹坯布。
该产品在经过定型工艺后，二针经平衬纬坯布的经纬密(12.7-13)x(15.5-16)根/cm，定型后平方克重在35-37g/m2，拒水度在70-80，定型后无张力状态下，180度干热经纬向收缩率<2％。定型后布面外观要平整，手感柔软滑爽，弹性良好，无明显卷边现象。
定型后的坯布再经过涂胶可以作为高档衬布使用，在对坯布进行涂胶工艺时，根据这种坯布产品的最终用途，其涂层的胶点密度和胶点排列方式，选择的圆网规格参数是经过计算机设计无规则乱点圆网cp90(即90个孔点/cm2)，孔径0.22-0.25mm，壁厚0.17-0.19mm。撒粉用的热熔胶是上海天洋热熔胶有限公司生产的6200牌号80-170um粒径；底浆选用上海众义达公司的聚丙烯酸脂乳液YD-458牌号，固含量36-38％。这个底浆可以更耐洗。
双点涂层工艺是先准备底浆：将干净自来水与YD-760聚丙烯酸酯乳液按照固含量20-25％调配好，搅拌均匀后再加入适当增稠剂和氨水充分搅拌均匀，调配成一定粘度的底浆备用。
在对该产品进行涂胶时，在双点涂层机上，先穿好布，装好cp90圆网泵入 调配好的458底浆，撒粉机粉斗中加入适当6200双点撒粉，打开双点机吹吸粉装置，待烘房升温至170-185度左右，开始涂层生产，车速20-30m/min，底浆涂层量控制在2-3g/m2，热熔胶撒粉涂层量在5-7g/m2，这样总涂层量7-10g/m2。这个品种的涂层量我们优选8-9g/m2。这样涂层后的门幅在153-155cm，平方克重在44-46g/m2。涂层时需要在现场取样检测其关键质量指标：除门幅，平方克重，涂层量外，还需要在紫光灯下观察点型是否完整，涂层是否均匀，140度12秒2.5kg/cm2条件下经纬向夹层热缩是否满足都小于1.6％，优等品要小于1％。在上述粘合条件下在毛涤标准面料上进行粘合测试，剥离强力大于18N/5cm，夹层测试背透小于1.5N/5cm。
涂层后的产品再去验布机按客户要求分卷包装和按照质量分级处理。
涂层后的质量检验除了涂层工序的测试内容外，还需要检测色牢度需要大于三级，与标准毛涤测试面料粘合后进行40度3次水洗试验，剩余剥离强度大于12N/5CM，外观平整度不低于3级；5次干洗试验后，剥离强力大于12N/5cm，外观平整度3级以上。符合上述标准的，都可以作为合格品销售。
该产品很适合与较轻薄的柔软弹性面料配伍，作主衬使用，适合制作春秋柔软舒适类型的服装。
产品四：W3T23-14D
经纱采用涤纶长丝DTY 20D/24F低弹轻网材料，纬纱采用高收缩涤纶长丝DTY 20D/24F，在卡尔迈耶衬纬经编机E28针机型上，上机门幅210cm，上机纬密21根/cm，利用二针经平组织花盘(该二针经平组织花盘优选GB1：12/10)，采用单梳节满穿方式织布即编织成二针经平坯布。考虑到后续溢流染色工序工人操作方便，下机坯布长度1200米左右为佳，这样溢流染色机每管刚好一匹坯布。
该产品在经过定型工艺后，二针经平衬纬坯布的经纬密(14.5-15)x(26-28)根/cm，定型后平方克重在23-24g/m2，拒水度在70-80,定型后无张力状态下，180度干热经纬向收缩率<2.5％。定型后布面外观要平整，手感细腻柔软滑爽，弹性良好，无明显卷边现象。
定型后的坯布再经过涂胶可以作为高档衬布使用，在对坯布进行涂胶工艺时，根据这种坯布产品的最终用途，其涂层的胶点密度和胶点排列方式，选择的圆网规格参数是经过计算机设计无规则乱点圆网cp130(即130个孔点/cm2)，孔径0.14-0.16mm，壁厚0.17-0.18mm。撒粉用的热熔胶是上海天洋热熔胶有限公司生产的6200牌号80-145um粒径；底浆选用上海众义达公司的聚胺脂乳液YD-368牌号，固含量36％。这个底浆特别耐洗。
双点涂层工艺是先准备底浆：将干净自来水与YD-368聚丙烯酸酯乳液按照固含量20-23％调配好，搅拌均匀后再加入适当增稠剂和氨水充分搅拌均匀，调配成一定粘度的底浆备用。
双点涂层工艺是在底布上先用圆网进行浆点涂层，然后在部门均匀撒上热熔胶粉在对该产品进行涂胶时，在双点涂层机上，先穿好布，装好cp130圆网泵入调配好的368底浆，撒粉机粉斗中加入适当6200双点撒粉，打开双点机吹吸粉装置，待烘房升温至170-185度左右，开始涂层生产，车速25-30m/min，底浆涂层量控制在1.5-2g/m2，热熔胶撒粉涂层量在4-6g/m2，这样总涂层量6-8g/m2。这个品种的涂层量我们优选6-7g/m2。这样涂层后的门幅在153-155cm，平方克重在29-30g/m2。涂层时需要在现场取样检测其关键质量指标：除门幅，平方克重，涂层量外，还需要在紫光灯下观察点型是否完整，涂层是否均匀，140度12秒2.5kg/cm2条件下经纬向夹层热缩是否满足都小于1.6％，优等品要小于1％。在上述粘合条件下在毛涤标准面料上进行粘合测试，剥离强力大于 15N/5cm，夹层测试背透小于0.5N/5cm。
涂层后的产品再去验布机按客户要求分卷包装和按照质量分级处理。
涂层后的质量检验除了涂层工序的测试内容外，还需要检测色牢度需要大于三级，与标准毛涤测试面料粘合后进行40度5次水洗试验，剩余剥离强度大于8N/5CM，外观平整度不低于3级；5次干洗试验后，剥离强力大于10N/5cm，外观平整度3级以上。符合上述标准的，都可以作为合格品销售。
该产品很适合与非常细腻轻薄柔软弹性面料配伍，作主衬或者用于其他小部位，适合制作春夏薄型时装。
本发明还提供一种通过上述方法生产的二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料。
由以上可见，本发明的二针经平双向弹力复合材料及其生产工艺具有以下
有益效果：
1：采用衬纬经编组织中的二针经平衬纬组织形成的织物组织具有良好的经纬向变形伸长能力，同时这种针织线圈结构又有非常稳定的受力回复性能，所得到的衬布具有良好的保型性能。这种经编衬纬组织进一步稳定了纬向受力性能，在具有变形能力前提下，织物结构更稳定。
2：经纬纱原材料100％采用DTY弹力丝，特别是涤纶DTY丝，原材料供应方便，价格低廉，性能优良。它织成的坯布，很容易在溢流染色精炼过程中预缩充分，从而获得织物较好的弹性。上述两点可以充分获得这种粘合衬的良好弹性和保型性能。
3：选用E20到E32针密的经编二针经平衬纬组织，可以方便调配不同粗细经纬纱组合时经线热处理膨化后在纬纱上的覆盖程度，更有效地防止纬纱纤维在染整加工过程中或者在衬布使用过程中勾丝起球现象。它的抗背透性能也优于现在常见的涤纶经编低弹衬。
4：这种原材料，织物组织，经纬纱粗细及经纬密组合而成的坯布可以通过最常见的溢流染整工艺设备加工，无需专用预缩工序或者专门的经轴染色工艺来处理，加工简便，成本低，能耗低，产品性能更优异。
以上实施例的说明只是用于帮助理解本发明的方法及其核心思想。应当指出，对于本技术领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明原理的前提下，还可以对本发明进行若干改进和修饰，这些改进和修饰也落入本发明权利要求的保护范围内。
对所公开的实施例的上述说明，使本领域专业技术人员能够实现或使用本发明。对这些实施例的多种修改对本领域的专业技术人员来说将是显而易见的，本文中所定义的一般原理可以在不脱离本发明的精神或范围的情况下，在其它实施例中实现。因此，本发明将不会被限制于本文所示的这些实施例，而是要符合与本文所公开的原理和新颖特点相一致的最宽的范围。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料的生产工艺，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
    步骤S1：织布：采用规格在15D-100D之间的涤纶DTY长丝作为经纱材料，采用规格在15D-600D之间的涤纶DTY长丝作为纬纱材料，经纱上机经向密度为7.5-13根/cm，纬纱上机纬向密度为6-25根/cm，利用全幅衬纬经编机二针经平组织花盘，采用单梳节满穿织造即得二针经平衬纬坯布；
    步骤S2：利用溢流染色机预缩精炼或溢流预缩染色，其中，预缩精炼用于生产白色的二针经平衬纬坯布，溢流预缩染色用于生产需要染色的二针经平衬纬坯布；
    步骤S3：定型：在定型轧车内配置定型助剂，然后将经溢流染色机处理的坯布浸轧定型助剂并烘干定型；以及
    步骤S4：涂胶：将定型后的坯布放入双点涂层机中，定型后的坯布的一面先进行浆点涂层，再进行撒粉涂层加工，然后进行吹吸粉，以及在烘房中加热使撒粉涂层的热熔胶粉熔化而与浆点涂层粘结，制得二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料。
  2. 如权利要求1所述的二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述预缩精炼的过程包括：溢流染色机的液槽内的水温升高至84-92度时进二针经平坯布，保温10分钟后将温度降至80度同时向溢流染色机的液槽内加入精炼助剂形成精炼液，加入精炼助剂后将温度升高至120-125度，保温15-20分钟，然后按照2℃/min速度降温至80度并排水，再向溢流染色机的液槽内注入60度热水，循环水洗15分钟后排水，最后向溢流染色机的液槽内注入35-40度热水同时加入冰醋酸，酸洗15分钟后出布入下一道工序，其中冰醋酸用量为0.5g/l。
  3. 如权利要求2所述的二针经平双向弹力复合材料的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述精炼液的配方为：多功能精炼剂BL-806，1.2g/l；去油灵TF101，1.5g/l；片碱NaOH，0.5g/l；其余为水。
  4. 如权利要求1所述的二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述溢流预缩染色的过程包括：首先使用除油助剂对二针经平坯布除油，在对二针经平坯布除油后，溢流染色机的液槽内的水温升高至84-92度进二针经平坯布，二针经平坯布进入完毕后升温至94度保温15分钟，然后降温至80度以下排水，然后在溢流染色机进水，然后升温至68-70度同时加入化好的染料和染色助剂；加入染色助剂后按照1.5℃/min的升温速率升温至130度，保温30分钟，然后按照1.5℃/min降温至80度，加入还原清洗剂DS-1559和片碱NaOH，再升温至85-90℃进行还原清洗并保温25分钟；然后降温至70度排液；然后进热水升温至60度洗涤15分钟，排液；然后再进温水加入冰醋酸酸洗15分钟，其中冰醋酸用量为0.5g/l。
  5. 如权利要求4所述的二针经平双向弹力复合材料的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述除油助剂的配方如下：去油灵TF101，2g/l；纯碱NaCO3，4g/l；其余为水。
  6. 如权利要求4所述的二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述染色助剂配方如下：匀染分散螯合三合一多效染色剂，1.5-2g/l；染色酸DA，0.6-0.8g/l。
  7. 如权利要求4所述的二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料的生产工艺，其特征在于，原清洗剂DS-1559用量为1-2g/l，片碱NaOH用量为1g/l。
  8. 如权利要求1所述的二针经平双向弹力复合材料的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述定型助剂的配方为：硅油TF-438，25g/l；纤柔素CST，10g/l；抗静电 剂SN-1，1.5g/l；冰醋酸，0.5-1g/l，其余为水；所述定型工艺的参数如下：车速40-50m/min，出布门幅156-157cm，定型温度195-202度。
  9. 如权利要求1所述的二针经平衬纬双向弹力复合材料的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述双点涂层工艺的参数如下：选用计算机无规则布点的浆点涂层圆网，胶点密度范围在13-200点/平方厘米，涂层量在4-15g/平方米。
  10. 一种二针经平双向弹力复合材料，其特征在于，所述二针经平双向弹力复合材料由权利要求1-9任意一项所述的生产工艺加工而成。
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