WO2018041116A1 - 一种双层羽绒服面料 - Google Patents

一种双层羽绒服面料 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2018041116A1
WO2018041116A1 PCT/CN2017/099562 CN2017099562W WO2018041116A1 WO 2018041116 A1 WO2018041116 A1 WO 2018041116A1 CN 2017099562 W CN2017099562 W CN 2017099562W WO 2018041116 A1 WO2018041116 A1 WO 2018041116A1
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Prior art keywords
fabric
layer
polyester
double
down jacket
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PCT/CN2017/099562
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
王超
蔡东照
楚正兵
庄燕
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东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司
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Publication of WO2018041116A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018041116A1/zh

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D11/00—Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02—Setting
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/38—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/144—Alcohols; Metal alcoholates
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M2101/32—Polyesters
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M2101/34—Polyamides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a double-layer down jacket fabric. Specifically, it relates to a double-layer structure fabric which is excellent in anti-velvet property and can be directly filled with velvet without sewing, and is suitable for use in making down jackets and the like.
  • the fabric of nylon filament with a specific single-filament fineness is treated and dyed, and a fabric which is not only dense in structure but soft in hand can be obtained without calendering and the like, and such a fabric can be used for making a down jacket, but the needle is stitched at the seam portion.
  • the presence of holes still has problems in terms of anti-drilling and water repellency.
  • the surface layer and the inner layer are connected to each other by means of surface layer changing or surface connection, and the connecting layer in the surface or the joint in the surface forms a connecting line connecting the surface layer and the inner layer;
  • the warp and/or weft of the surface layer and the inner layer are polyester/nylon composite yarn; the maximum pore diameter of the fabric is not more than 3.5um.
  • the double-layer down jacket fabric of the invention can be obtained by changing the layer or the surface in the table without the sewing seam, and there is no pinhole at the joint, which can effectively prevent the leakage of the joint at the joint; and at the same time, by using the polyester-knitted composite yarn and the pair
  • the moderate shrinkage treatment carried out not only obtains a soft and delicate touch, but also improves the overall anti-velvet property of the fabric.
  • the surface layer and the inner layer are connected to each other by means of surface layer changing or surface connection, and the connecting layer in the surface or the joint in the surface forms a connecting line connecting the surface layer and the inner layer;
  • the warp and/or weft of the surface layer and the inner layer are polyester/nylon composite yarn; the maximum pore diameter of the fabric is not more than 3.5um.
  • the above-mentioned in-surface connection means that the surface warp yarn and the inner layer weft yarn or the inner layer warp yarn are interlaced with the surface layer weft yarn to form a joint point, and the joint points are continuously or intermittently arranged to form a joint line.
  • the way of changing layers in the surface means that the surface warp yarns and the inner warp yarns or the surface layer weft yarns and the inner layer weft yarns exchange positions with each other, and the position exchange portion forms a connecting line.
  • the surface layer or the connection at the surface forms a connecting line connecting the surface layer and the inner layer.
  • the distance between each two connecting lines is the width of the filling area. If the width of the filling zone is too small, the filling efficiency may be affected; and if the width of the filling zone is too large, there may be a problem of uneven filling. Therefore, the width of the filled region of the present invention is preferably 6 to 10 cm.
  • the warp yarns and/or the weft yarns forming the surface layer and the inner layer are polyester-nylon composite yarns. That is, in the surface layer and the inner layer, the polyester/nylon composite yarn is used in the warp or weft direction alone or in the warp and weft directions. Considering the high efficiency of factory production, reducing production costs, and reducing fabric weaving defects such as warp streaks, yarn breaks, etc., it is preferred to use only in the weft direction.
  • the warp yarn may be any one or a combination of synthetic fibers and regenerated cellulose fibers.
  • the synthetic fiber herein may be polyester, nylon or the like, and the regenerated cellulose fiber may be viscose, tencel, modal or the like, and the fineness thereof is preferably from 30 to 100 dtex.
  • the polyester-rubber composite yarn used in the present invention refers to a composite fiber obtained by splitting two components of polyester and nylon by a special distribution plate and extruding through the same orifice. According to the shape of the section, it can be divided into a bell-shaped type and a rice-shaped type.
  • the compounding ratio of polyester and nylon can be adjusted as needed, and is preferably 50 to 80:50 to 20. In order to avoid the occurrence of nylon embrittlement during the finishing process after dyeing, which affects the color fastness and touch of the fabric, the composite ratio is further preferably from 70 to 80:30 to 20.
  • the fineness of the polyester-rubber composite yarn used in the present invention can be selected as needed, and is preferably from 30 to 111 dtex, more preferably from 50 to 84 dtex.
  • the monofilament fineness after division is preferably 1.0 to 0.1 dtex.
  • the method for calculating the monofilament fineness after division is as follows: the total fineness of the single-filament fineness (dtex) ⁇ composite yarn / the number of composite fibers / the number of filaments after each fiber division.
  • the diameter of the feather root is about 4 to 10 um, if the warp and weft are interwoven. When the pores and the pores between the monofilaments of the warp and weft are too large, the down is easily drilled. In order to effectively prevent down-drilling, the present invention requires that the maximum aperture on the fabric does not exceed 3.5 um. In the present invention, defects due to yarn breakage and the like are negligible (1 to 4 points/50 meters).
  • the average pore size refers to the average of all pore sizes per unit area (cm 2 ) of the fabric.
  • the degree of uniform distribution of the pore size is expressed by a standard coefficient of variance. The smaller the standard variance coefficient, the smaller the deviation of the aperture size, and the more uniform the aperture distribution, that is, the smaller the deviation from the average aperture.
  • the uniform distribution of the pore size is difficult to achieve, and if the pore size distribution is not uniform, there may be leakage of fine fluff.
  • the fabric has an average pore diameter of 1.5 to 2.8 um and a standard deviation coefficient of the pore diameter of 0.30 to 0.80.
  • the structure of the surface fabric and the inner layer fabric can be designed according to different requirements, using plain or twill, or the like. Since the two layers in the table serve as the two surfaces of the fabric, the inner layer is preferably the most tightly plain or plain weave structure in consideration of the anti-velvet property and the water repellency.
  • the tightness of the fabric is preferably from 90 to 96%. If the tightness is too low, the fabric's anti-velvet properties and water repellency may not meet the requirements; if the tightness is too high, the fabric feels harder.
  • the fabric has a water pressure resistance of 1000 to 1800 mmH 2 O and a gas permeability of 0.01 to 1.00 cm 3 /cm 2 /s, whereby an excellent waterproof and windproof effect can be obtained.
  • the double-layer down jacket fabric of the invention can be obtained by the following methods: weaving, scouring, shrinking treatment (such as benzyl alcohol treatment, reduction, etc.), intermediate setting, dyeing, water repellent resin, finishing and shaping, etc. .
  • the weaving tightness of the present invention is preferably from 60% to 70% in consideration of the requirements for the weaving equipment, such as the limitation of the total number of warp, the maximum weft density of the loom, and the like. In the above range, not only the production efficiency is high, but also the flatness of the fabric is high.
  • the benzyl alcohol treatment conditions are preferably a treatment temperature of 90 to 100 ° C and a heat retention period of 30 to 60 minutes.
  • the amount thereof can be selected as needed, and is preferably 5 to 10% owf.
  • the invention prolongs the holding time by reducing the processing temperature and the concentration of the auxiliary agent, so that the nylon shrinks, only part of the polyester is cracked and separated, and the surface of the composite yarn is not etched.
  • the benzyl alcohol additive can be used as an autonomous synthetic product or a commercially available product.
  • the reduction treatment conditions are set according to the proportion of the polyester filaments in the polyester-knitted composite yarn, so that the polyester fiber in the polyester-bromine composite yarn can be hydrolyzed and peeled off to achieve the purpose of shrinkage.
  • the treatment temperature is 100 to 120 ° C, the temperature is maintained for 30 to 60 minutes, and the amount of sodium hydroxide is 15 to 25% owf.
  • the purpose of the intermediate setting is to improve the flatness and uniformity of the fabric to prevent staining and wrinkling.
  • the temperature is preferably from 180 to 190 °C.
  • Dyeing is carried out in a usual manner by selecting a liquid flow dyeing machine having a large effect.
  • the fabric is entirely formed of polyester-knitted composite yarn or formed of polyester-knitted composite yarn and polyester-based fiber, in order to ensure the color fastness of the fabric, it is considered to use only disperse dye to color the polyester.
  • the dyeing temperature is too low, the nylon component in the polyester-knitted composite yarn may not be sufficiently and uniformly shrinked, and the pore distribution may be uneven. Especially when the dye is dark, the coloring effect will decrease.
  • the dyeing temperature is too high, the dyeing temperature is too high. There is a possibility that the fiber embrittlement phenomenon occurs, and the fabric has a problem of strong strength drop and poor color fastness. Therefore, the dyeing temperature in the present invention is preferably 130 to 135 °C.
  • the water repellent resin processing is beneficial to reduce the ventilation of the fabric and improve the waterproofness.
  • the type of the water-repellent resin used in the present invention is not particularly limited, and an environmentally friendly non-fluorine-based resin is preferable. Such as paraffin, alkyl urea esters and the like.
  • the setting of the width can be adjusted according to the effect of the cloth surface, and the temperature is preferably 150 to 180 °C.
  • the down jacket fabric obtained by the above method not only has a delicate and soft hand feeling, but also has an extremely superior compact structure, low gas permeability (a gas permeability of 1.00 to 0.01 cm 3 /cm 2 /s), good anti-velvet property, and can be used for production. High-end down jackets, etc.
  • test method of the relevant parameters in the present invention is as follows:
  • K yarn diameter coefficient (calculation of specific gravity method), such as:
  • Polyester 0.03738, nylon: 0.04113, polyester/nylon composite yarn (polyester 70/jin 30): 0.03851.
  • Air permeability According to JIS L1096:2010 (pressure 125Mpa) standard.
  • Anti-velvet property according to GB/T 14272-2011 standard.
  • Both warp and weft yarns are made of 50dtex-24f-polyester-knitted composite yarn (Jiangsu Hengli Chemical Fiber Co., Ltd.).
  • the warp-knit density of the surface and inner layers is 185/inch
  • the weft-knit density is 155/inch, plain weave.
  • Weaving, the surface layer and the inner layer are woven by surface-bonding to form a connecting line, and the above-mentioned cross-weaving step is repeated to obtain a grey cloth having a filling area width of 5 cm, and then the grey cloth is scoured and shrunk (benzyl alcohol 5% owf, 95 ° C * 40).
  • Both warp and weft yarns are made of 55dtex-18f-polyester-knitted composite yarn (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.), and the warp-knit density of the surface and inner layers is 175/inch, the weft-knit density is 146/inch, and the weave is woven.
  • the surface layer and the inner layer are woven by forming a connecting line in the surface, and the cross-weaving step is repeated to obtain a grey cloth having a filling area width of 6 cm, and then the grey cloth is subjected to shrinking treatment (benzyl alcohol 10% owf, 100 ° C * 30 minutes).
  • the double-layer down jacket fabric of the present invention is obtained. See Table 1 for details.
  • the warp yarn was selected from 56dtex-144f-polyester DTY (made by Jiangsu Hengli Chemical Fiber Co., Ltd.), and the weft yarn was selected from 55dtex-18f-polyester-composite yarn (Dongli Co., Ltd.).
  • the warp density of the surface layer and the inner layer was 176/ The inch and weft woven density is 150/inch, the plain weave is woven, the surface layer and the inner layer are woven by the surface layer to form a connecting line, and the cross weaving step is repeated to obtain a grey cloth having a filling area width of 6 cm, and then the grey cloth is subjected to The shrinkage treatment (benzyl alcohol 10% owf, 100 ° C * 30 minutes), and the same as in Example 1, the double-layer down jacket fabric of the present invention was obtained. See Table 1 for details.
  • the shrinkage treatment conditions were adjusted to benzyl alcohol 6% owf, 90 ° C * 60 minutes, and the remainder was the same as in Example 3 to obtain the down jacket fabric of the present invention. See Table 1 for details.
  • the shrinkage treatment conditions were adjusted to 25 g/L of sodium hydroxide and 100 ° C for 40 minutes, and the same as in Example 3, the double-layer down jacket fabric of the present invention was obtained. See Table 1 for details.
  • the dyeing temperature was adjusted to 120 ° C, and the same as in Example 3, the double-layer down jacket fabric of the present invention was obtained. See Table 1 for details.
  • Both warp and weft yarns are selected from 56dtex-144f-polyester DTY (Jiangsu Hengli Chemical Fiber Co., Ltd.), and the shrinkage treatment is adjusted to calender processing.
  • the specific conditions are: temperature 180 ° C, speed 30 m / min, heating roller load 40 tons, the rest In Example 3, a double down jacket fabric was obtained. See Table 1 for details.
  • Both the warp yarn and the weft yarn were selected from 55 dtex-18f-polyester-composite yarn (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.), and the plain weave was woven to obtain a grey fabric, and the rest was the same as in Example 2 to obtain a single-layer down jacket fabric. It is necessary to fill the car after sewing, as shown in Table 1.
  • Both the warp yarn and the weft yarn were selected from 55 dtex-18f-polyester-composite yarn (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.), and no shrinkage treatment was carried out, and the same as in Example 2, a down jacket fabric was obtained. See Table 1 for details.
  • Example 3 It can be seen from Example 3 and Example 4 that under the same conditions, the amount of benzyl alcohol used in the process of 10% owf, 100 ° C * 30 minutes, the processed fabric and benzyl alcohol dosage of 6% owf, 90 ° C * 60 minutes processing Compared with the obtained fabric, the fabric obtained by prolonging the treatment time did not change much in terms of tightness, air permeability, water pressure resistance, lint loss, and productivity.
  • Example 3 It can be seen from Example 3 and Example 5 that under the same conditions, the fabric obtained by treating with benzyl alcohol is comparable in productivity to the fabric treated with sodium hydroxide, but the former is more compact than the latter.
  • the maximum aperture, average aperture, and aperture standard deviation coefficient are smaller than the latter, so the former is superior to the latter in terms of air permeability, water pressure resistance, and anti-velvet property.
  • Example 3 It can be seen from Example 3 and Example 6 that, under the same conditions, the fabric obtained under the dyeing temperature of 135 ° C is smaller than the average pore diameter and the standard deviation coefficient of the aperture of the fabric obtained under the dyeing temperature of 120 ° C. The latter, therefore the former is superior to the latter in terms of air permeability, water pressure resistance and anti-velvet properties.
  • both the warp and weft yarns are polyester DTY, and the fabrics subjected to calendering and the warp and weft yarns are both polyester-knitted composite yarns and treated with benzyl alcohol.
  • the productivity of the former is comparable.
  • the average pore size of the former is smaller than that of the latter, the former has the largest pore size and the standard deviation coefficient of the pore diameter is significantly larger than the latter, so the former is obviously inferior to the latter in terms of gas permeability, water pressure resistance and anti-velvet property.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Abstract

一种双层羽绒服面料，该面料的表层和里层通过表里换层或表里连结的方式相互接结，表里换层或表里连结处形成连接表层和里层的连接线；且形成表层及里层的经纱和/或纬纱为涤锦复合纱；面料中最大孔径大小不超过3.5um，该面料具有优越的防绒性及防水性，而且触感细腻柔软。

Description

一种双层羽绒服面料 技术领域
本发明涉及一种双层羽绒服面料。具体涉及一种防绒性佳且无需缝制即可直接充绒的双层结构的面料，适合用于制作羽绒服等。
背景技术
随着生活水平的提高，人们对服装品质的要求也随之提高。其中对于羽绒服面料，不仅要求具有优异的保暖、防钻绒效果，还要求具有柔软细腻的触感等特点。
目前市面上的羽绒服面料多数是涤纶类或锦纶类的面料，通常由高密度织造、染色阶段高温处理、轧光等方式获得，布面致密，防钻绒效果较好，但仍然存在面料手感较硬，密度进一步提高受限等问题。而为了改善高密度织物的上述问题点，日本授权专利特许第4599790号中提出了一种染色织物的制造方法，在液流设备中，利用苯甲醇溶液对混用了特定单丝纤度的涤纶长丝和特定单丝纤度的锦纶长丝的织物进行处理并染色，无需轧光等加工即可获得不但织物结构致密而且手感柔软的织物，这样的织物可以用来制作羽绒服，但由于针缝部位上针孔的存在，在防钻绒性和防水性等方面仍然存在问题。
而为了解决针孔存在的问题，无缝技术应运而生。比如中国专利文献CN204483166U中公开了一种防钻绒织物，第一面料层与第二面料层通过表里换层相互接结，连接处不存在针孔，但对无缝织物的高密度结构的获得并没有给出解决方案。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种通过无缝缝合技术得到的防绒性佳、触感柔软细腻的双层羽绒服面料。
本发明的技术解决方案是：
本发明的双层羽绒服面料，其表层和里层通过表里换层或表里连接的方式相互接结，表里换层或表里连接处形成连接表层和里层的连接线；且形成上述表层及里层的经纱和/或纬纱为涤锦复合纱；该面料中最大孔径不超过3.5um。
本发明的双层羽绒服面料，无需车缝，通过表里换层或表里连接的方式获得，连接处不存在针孔，可有效防止连接处羽绒的漏出；同时通过使用涤锦复合纱以及对其进行的适度的收缩处理，不但获得了柔软细腻的触感，而且面料整体的防绒性得到了提高。
具体实施方式
本发明的双层羽绒服面料，其表层和里层通过表里换层或表里连接的方式相互接结，表里换层或表里连接处形成连接表层和里层的连接线；且形成上述表层及里层的经纱和/或纬纱为涤锦复合纱；该面料中最大孔径不超过3.5um。
上述的表里连接方式是指由表层经纱与里层纬纱或者里层经纱与表层纬纱交织形成连接点，且连接点连续或间断地排列形成连接线。而表里换层的方式是指表层经纱和里层经纱或者表层纬纱和里层纬纱之间相互交换位置，位置交换处形成连接线。
本发明中，表里换层或表里连接处形成连接表层和里层的连接线， 从而获得各个独立的填充区。而每两根连接线之间的距离即为填充区的宽度。填充区的宽度过小的话，有可能会影响到填充效率；而填充区的宽度过大的话，又有可能产生填充不匀的问题。因此，本发明的填充区的宽度优选为6～10cm。
本发明中，形成上述表层及里层的经纱和/或纬纱为涤锦复合纱。即表层及里层中，仅经向或者纬向使用上述涤锦复合纱、或者经纬向同时使用上述涤锦复合纱。考虑到工厂生产的高效性，降低生产成本，减少如经向条纹、断纱等布面织造疵点，优选仅在纬向使用。当仅在纬向使用涤锦复合纱时，经纱可以是合成纤维、再生纤维素纤维中的任意一种或几种。这里的合成纤维可以是涤纶、锦纶等，再生纤维素纤维可以是粘胶、天丝、莫代尔等，其纤度优选为30～100dtex。
本发明所用涤锦复合纱，是指涤纶和锦纶两种成分由特殊的分配板进行分流，通过同一喷丝孔挤出成形制得的复合型纤维。按断面形状可以分为桔瓣型、米字型等。涤纶、锦纶的复合比可根据需要进行调整，优选为50～80：50～20。为了避免在染色后整理加工过程中出现锦纶脆化现象，影响到面料的色牢度及触感，复合比进一步优选为70～80：30～20。本发明所用涤锦复合纱的纤度可根据需要进行选择，优选为30～111dtex，更优选为50～84dtex。分割后单丝纤度优选为1.0～0.1dtex。分割后单丝纤度的计算方法如下：单丝纤度(dtex)≈复合纱的总纤度/复合纤维的根数/每根纤维分割后的单丝根数。
一般来说，羽绒根部直径约为4～10um，如果经纬纱交织形成的 孔隙以及经纬纱的单丝之间的孔隙太大的话，羽绒很容易钻出。为了有效防止羽绒钻出，本发明中要求面料上最大孔径不超过3.5um。在本发明中，由于断纱等原因所产生的疵点忽略不计(1～4点/50米)。
平均孔径是指面料单位面积(cm2)内所有孔径的平均值。孔径大小的均匀分布程度用标准方差系数来表示。标准方差系数越小，说明孔径大小的偏差越小，孔径分布越均匀，即与平均孔径的偏差越小。对于面料来说，由于受到织造条件、加工条件等因素影响，孔径均匀分布很难达到，而孔径分布不均匀的话，有可能出现细小绒丝的漏出。本发明中优选面料的平均孔径为1.5～2.8um、且孔径标准方差系数为0.30～0.80。
表层面料及里层面料的组织可以根据不同的要求，采用平纹、斜纹等三原组织或其变化组织进行设计。由于表里两层作为面料的两个表面，考虑到防绒性及防水性，表里层优选紧度最大的平纹或平纹变化组织。
本发明中，面料的紧度优选为90～96％。紧度过低的话，面料防绒性及防水性有可能达不到要求；紧度过高的话，面料触感有变硬的趋势。
本发明中，优选面料的耐水压为1000～1800mmH2O，透气量为0.01～1.00cm3/cm2/s，可以获得优异的防水、防风效果。
本发明的双层羽绒服面料，可通过如下方法制得：坯布织造、精练、收缩处理(如苯甲醇处理、减量等)、中间定型、染色、拒水树脂、后整理定型等加工后制得。
其中，考虑到对织造设备的要求，如总经根数的限制、织机的最大纬密度等等，本发明的织造紧度优选为60％～70％。在上述范围内不但生产效率高，而且面料的平整度也较高。
苯甲醇处理条件，优选处理温度90～100℃、保温30～60分钟。其用量可根据需要进行选择，优选为5～10％owf。与通常涤锦复合纱的开纤工艺相比，本发明通过降低处理温度及助剂浓度，延长保温时间，使得锦纶收缩，仅部分涤纶裂解分离，复合纱表面无刻蚀。苯甲醇助剂可使用自主合成品，也可使用市售品。
减量处理条件，根据涤锦复合纱中涤纶长丝所占比例进行设定，只要能使涤锦复合纱中涤纶纤维水解剥离达到收缩的目的即可。优选处理温度100～120℃、保温30～60分钟、氢氧化钠用量15～25％owf。
中间定型，其目的是为了提高面料的平整度及性量均匀，防止染斑、染皱产生。温度优选为180～190℃。
染色，选择在搓揉效果大的液流染色机以通常的方法进行。当面料全部由涤锦复合纱形成或者由涤锦复合纱与涤纶系纤维形成时，为了保证面料的色牢度，考虑仅使用分散染料对涤纶上色。染色温度过低的话，有可能会导致涤锦复合纱中锦纶成分不能充分且均匀收缩，孔隙分布不匀，特别是染中深色时，上色效果有下降的趋势；而染色温度过高的话，则有可能发生纤维脆化现象，使得面料出现强力下降及色牢度不良的问题，因此本发明中染色温度优选为130～135℃。
拒水树脂加工，有利于降低面料的通气量，提高防水性。本发明中所用拒水树脂，其种类没有特别限定，优选环境友好型非氟系树脂。 如石蜡类、烷基脲酯类等。
整理定型,幅宽的设定可根据布面的效果来调整,温度优选为150～180℃。
通过上述方法制得的羽绒服面料不但手感细腻柔软，而且具有极为优越的致密性结构，低透气性(透气量为1.00～0.01cm3/cm2/s)，防绒性佳，可以用于生产中高端羽绒服等。
下面结合实施例及比较例对本发明作进一步说明。
本发明中相关参数的测试方法如下：
(1)紧度
Figure PCTCN2017099562-appb-000001
Figure PCTCN2017099562-appb-000002
总紧度Ez(％)＝Ej+Ew–(Ej×Ew)
K：纱线直径系数(比重法推算)，如：
涤纶：0.03738、锦纶：0.04113、涤锦复合纱(涤70/锦30)：0.03851。(2)最大孔径以及孔径的标准方差系数
①在距布边2.5cm处开始随机剪取直径为2.5cm的圆形样布5块。在样品室中，将圆形样布放入表面张力为15.9dynes/cm的斯维克硅酮液(silwick silicone Fluid)中润湿。接着根据ASTM F316-03标准采用毛管流动孔隙测量仪(PMI公司产品，型号：CFP-1100-AE)测量圆形样布的孔径大小。设定工作模式为wet-up/dry-down模式，测试环境为20±2℃、65±4％RH。读出每块圆形样布的孔径分布及各范围孔径的比率，记录最大孔径的读数并计算平均值作为本发明面料 的最大孔径。
②根据所保存数据计算出孔径的标准方差(σ2)，其计算方法如下：
Figure PCTCN2017099562-appb-000003
Figure PCTCN2017099562-appb-000004
Figure PCTCN2017099562-appb-000005
所有孔径读数的平均值，pi：各孔径范围所对应的个数，xi：各孔径范围读数的平均值，P：所有孔径个数的总和。
(3)透气量：根据JIS L1096：2010(压力125Mpa)标准。
(4)耐水压：根据JIS L1092：2009标准。
(5)防绒性：根据GB/T 14272-2011标准。
(6)生产性：根据织机的时间稼动率对织造性进行评价。计算方法如下：织机的时间稼动率＝稼动时间/负荷时
Figure PCTCN2017099562-appb-000006
实施例1
经纱和纬纱均选用50dtex-24f-涤锦复合纱(江苏恒力化纤股份有限公司)，表层和里层的经向织造密度为185根/英寸、纬向织造密度为155根/英寸，平纹组织进行织造，表层和里层通过表里连接织造形成连接线，重复上述交叉织造步骤，得到填充区宽度为5cm的坯布，接着将坯布进行精练、收缩处理(苯甲醇5％owf、95℃*40分钟)、180℃中间定型、染色(135℃*30分钟)、150℃干燥、拒水树脂加工(Zelan R3、烷基脲酯类，杜邦中国集团有限公司制)；160℃后整理 定型，制得本发明的双层羽绒服面料。具体见表1。
实施例2
经纱和纬纱均选用55dtex-18f-涤锦复合纱(东丽株式会社制)，表层和里层的经向织造密度为175根/英寸、纬向织造密度为146根/英寸，平纹组织进行织造，表层和里层通过表里换层织造形成连接线，重复上述交叉织造步骤，得到填充区宽度为6cm的坯布，接着将坯布进行收缩处理(苯甲醇10％owf、100℃*30分钟)，制得本发明的双层羽绒服面料。具体见表1。
实施例3
经纱选用56dtex-144f-涤纶DTY(江苏恒力化纤股份有限公司制)、纬纱选用55dtex-18f-涤锦复合纱(东丽株式会社制)，表层和里层的经向织造密度为176根/英寸、纬向织造密度为150根/英寸，平纹组织进行织造，表层和里层通过表里换层织造形成连接线，重复上述交叉织造步骤，得到填充区宽度为6cm的坯布，接着将坯布进行收缩处理(苯甲醇10％owf、100℃*30分钟)，其余同实施例1，制得本发明的双层羽绒服面料。具体见表1。
实施例4
收缩处理条件调整为苯甲醇6％owf、90℃*60分钟，其余同实施例3，制得本发明的羽绒服面料。具体见表1。
实施例5
收缩处理条件调整为氢氧化钠25g/L、100℃*40分钟，其余同实施例3，制得本发明的双层羽绒服面料。具体见表1。
实施例6
染色温度调整为120℃，其余同实施例3，制得本发明的双层羽绒服面料。具体见表1。
比较例1
经纱和纬纱均选用56dtex-144f-涤纶DTY(江苏恒力化纤股份有限公司)，将收缩处理调整为轧光加工，具体条件：温度180℃、速度30m/分钟、加热辊负载40吨，其余同实施例3，制得双层羽绒服面料。具体见表1。
比较例2
经纱和纬纱均选用55dtex-18f-涤锦复合纱(东丽株式会社制)，平纹组织织造得到坯布，其余同实施例2，制得单层羽绒服面料。需车缝后才能充绒，具体见表1。
比较例3
经纱和纬纱均选用55dtex-18f-涤锦复合纱(东丽株式会社制)，不进行收缩处理，其余同实施例2，制得羽绒服面料。具体见表1。
Figure PCTCN2017099562-appb-000007
根据上表，
(1)由实施例2与实施例3可知，同等条件下，经纬纱均使用涤锦复合纱的面料与仅纬纱使用涤锦复合纱的面料相比，由于前者的紧度大于后者，而最大孔径、平均孔径、孔径标准方差系数均小于后者，因此前者的透气量、耐水压以及防绒性要优于后者，但生产性不及后者。(2)由实施例3与实施例4可知，同等条件下，苯甲醇用量10％owf、100℃*30分钟条件下加工所得面料与苯甲醇用量6％owf、90℃*60分钟条件下加工所得面料相比，同时延长处理时间所得面料，在紧度、透气量、耐水压、漏绒性以及生产性方面没有太大变化。
(3)由实施例3与实施例5可知，同等条件下，采用苯甲醇处理所得面料与采用氢氧化钠处理所得面料相比，两者的生产性相当，但由于前者的紧度大于后者，而最大孔径、平均孔径以及孔径标准方差系数小于后者，因此前者在透气量、耐水压以及防绒性方面要优于后者。
(4)由实施例3与实施例6可知，同等条件下，染色温度135℃条件下得到的面料与染色温度120℃条件下得到的面料相比，前者的平均孔径以及孔径标准方差系数均小于后者，因此前者在透气量、耐水压以及防绒性方面要优于后者。
(5)由比较例1与实施例3可知，同等条件下，经纬纱均为涤纶DTY且进行轧光处理的面料与经纬纱均为涤锦复合纱且进行苯甲醇处理的面料相比，两者的生产性相当，虽然前者的平均孔径小于后者，但由于前者的最大孔径、孔径标准方差系数明显大于后者，因此前者在透气量、耐水压以及防绒性方面明显不及后者。
(5)由比较例2与实施例2可知，同等条件下，车缝形成的双层羽绒服面料与织造得到的双层羽绒服面料相比，两者的紧度、最大孔径大小、平均孔径大小、孔径标准方差系数均相当，因此两者的透气量、耐水压以及防绒性均相当，但前者车缝针孔处存在钻绒的问题，防绒性不及后者。
(6)由比较例3与实施例2可知，同等条件下，采用收缩处理所得面料与未采用收缩处理所得面料相比，前者的紧度明显不及后者，而且前者的最大孔径、平均孔径、孔径标准方差系数也明显大于后者，因此前者在透气量、耐水压以及防绒性方面远不及后者。

Claims (5)

  1. 一种双层羽绒服面料，其特征是：所述面料的表层和里层通过表里换层或表里连接的方式相互接结，表里换层或表里连接处形成连接表层和里层的连接线；且形成所述表层及里层的经纱和/或纬纱为涤锦复合纱；所述面料中最大孔径不超过3.5um。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的双层羽绒服面料，其特征是：所述面料的平均孔径为1.5～2.8um，且孔径的标准方差系数为0.30～0.80。
  3. 根据权利要求1或2所述的双层羽绒服面料，其特征是：所述面料的紧度为90～96％。
  4. 根据权利要求1或2所述的双层羽绒服面料，其特征是：所述面料的耐水压为1000～1800mmH2O，透气量为0.01～1.00cm3/cm2/s。
  5. 根据权利要求1或2所述的双层羽绒服面料，其特征是：所述面料通过苯甲醇处理而获得。
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CN105671726A (zh) * 2016-02-25 2016-06-15 河南工程学院 双层无胆防绒面料
CN205467609U (zh) * 2016-03-31 2016-08-17 巨诚科技集团有限公司 三层叠瓦式防绒面料

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