WO2017183562A1 - Composition for dyeing keratin fibers - Google Patents

Composition for dyeing keratin fibers Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017183562A1
WO2017183562A1 PCT/JP2017/015208 JP2017015208W WO2017183562A1 WO 2017183562 A1 WO2017183562 A1 WO 2017183562A1 JP 2017015208 W JP2017015208 W JP 2017015208W WO 2017183562 A1 WO2017183562 A1 WO 2017183562A1
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group
alkyl
weight
acid
composition according
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PCT/JP2017/015208
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French (fr)
Inventor
Saki Tsuzuki
Rimiko OZAWA
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L'oreal
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/062Oil-in-water emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular for dyeing keratin fibers with at least one direct dye, as well as a process using the same.
  • oxidative bases such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds.
  • oxidative bases are generally combined with couplers.
  • couplers are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds through an xidative condensation process.
  • This type of coloring by oxidation makes . it possible to obtain colors with very high visibility, the ability to cover white hair and in a wide variety of shades but it results in damage to the keratin fibers due to the use of oxidizing agents and alkaline agents (in particular by repeated application or by combination with other hair treatments).
  • dye keratin fibers in particular human hair
  • dyeing compositions containing direct dyes Conventional direct dyes are in particular the following: benzene nitrates, anthraquinones, nitropyridines, azos, xanthines, acridines, azines, and triarylmethane type or natural colorings.
  • JP-A-2008- 195663 discloses a composition for dyeing hair, including a direct dye.
  • Hair coloration using direct dyes has advantages over hair coloration using oxidative dyes: it rarely gives rise to allergic issues, it causes no damage to the hair, and it gives vivid color visibility.
  • compositions foLdyeing keratin fibers which uses a direct dye, but can prevent or reduce skin staining by the direct dye on the skin such as the scalp, while providing the keratin fibers with excellent cosmetic effects such as good (or at least acceptable) coloring properties.
  • the above objective can be achieved by a composition, preferably in the form of an O/W emulsion, for dyeing keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising:
  • R 1 and R 2 independently, denote a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, monovalent Q to C 12 hydrocarbon group,
  • R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, divalent C ⁇ to C 12 hydrocarbon group
  • n and n independently, denote an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 1 to 15, and more preferably from 2 to 11 ;
  • the (a) direct dye may be selected from the group consisting of acidic direct dyes, basic direct dyes and neutral direct dyes, and preferably from acidic direct dyes.
  • the (a) direct dye may be selected from the compounds according to the chemical formulae (II) and (IF), (III) and ( ⁇ ), and (IV) shown later.
  • the amount of the (a) direct dye in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (b) fatty material may be selected from fatty alcohols, hydrocarbon oils, preferably mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the (b) fatty material may range from 1 % to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40%) by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (c) surfactant may be selected from nonionic surfactants.
  • the amount of the (c) surfactant may range from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10%) by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5%> by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (d) monovalent alcohol other than the (b) fatty material may be selected from lower- aliphatic alcohols, aromatic alcohols, and mixtures thereof, and may preferably be selected from the group consisting of ethanol, benzyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the (d) monovalent alcohol other than the (b) fatty material may range from 0.1% to 15%) by weight, preferably from 0.5%> to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1%) to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (e) diester compound may be a diester of
  • polyoxyethylene monoalkyl ethers represented by the general following formulae (A-2) and (A-3): R ⁇ OCH 2 CH 2 ) ra -OH (A-2)
  • R 1 and R 2 , and m and n are defined as above.
  • the amount of the (e) diester compound may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05%) to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (f) water may range from 40% to 90% by weight, preferably from 45% to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention further comprise (g) at least one polyol.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers.
  • compositions for dyeing keratin fibers, preferably hair, which includes a direct dye, but can prevent or reduce skin staining by the direct dye on the skin such as the scalp, while providing the keratin fibers with excellent cosmetic effects such as good (or at least acceptable) coloring properties.
  • the composition according to the present invention preferably in the form of an O/W emulsion, is intended for dyeing keratin fibers, preferably hair, and comprises:
  • R 1 and R 2 independently, denote a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, monovalent C ⁇ to C 12 hydrocarbon group,
  • R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, divalent C ⁇ to C 12 hydrocarbon group
  • n and n independently, denote an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 1 to 15, and more preferably from 2 to 11 ;
  • composition according to the present invention can be used for dyeing keratin fibers, preferably hair.
  • compositions for dyeing hair including a direct dye may comprise benzyl alcohol in order to enhance hair coloring effects of the composition.
  • benzyl alcohol may also enhance skin coloring by the composition.
  • compositions for dyeing hair including a direct dye include a limited or reduced amount of benzyl alcohol.
  • the limited or reduced amount of benzyl alcohol may deteriorate hair coloring effects Of the compositions.
  • the composition according to the present invention can provide good (or at least acceptable) coloring effects even if the composition includes a limited or reduced amount of benzyl alcohol as the (d) alcohol, while it can prevent or reduce skin staining by the direct dye on the skin such as the scalp.
  • composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, preferably hair.
  • the composition according to the present invention includes (a) at least one direct dye. Two or more direct dyes may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of direct dye or a combination of different types of direct dyes may be used.
  • a direct dye means a colored substance which does not require the use of an oxidizing agent in order to develop its color.
  • the direct dye may be a natural direct dye or a synthetic direct dye.
  • natural direct dye is understood to mean any dye or dye precursor that is naturally occurring and is produced by extraction (and optionally purification) from a plant matrix or an animal such as an insect, optionally in the presence of natural compounds such as ash or ammonia.
  • quinone dyes such as lawsone and juglone
  • alizarin a dye that is added to the aqueous solution
  • purpurin a dye that is added to the aqueous solution
  • laccaic acid a dye that is added to the aqueous solution
  • carminic acid a dye that is added to the aqueous solution
  • kermesic acid a dye that is added to the aqueous solution
  • purpurogallin such as sodium sulfate
  • indigoids such as indigo, sorghum, isatin, betanin, curcuminoids (such as curcumin), spinulosin, various types of chlorophyll and chlorophyllin, hematoxylin, hematein, brazilein, brazilin, safflower dyes (such as carthamin), flavonoids (such as rutin, quercetin, catechin, epicatechin, morin, apigenidin, and sandalwood), anthocyans (such as apigeninidin and apigenin), carotenoids, tannins, orceins, santalins and cochineal carmine.
  • indigoids such as indigo, sorghum, isatin, betanin, curcuminoids (such as curcumin), spinulosin, various types of chlorophyll and chlorophyllin, hematoxylin, hematein, brazilein, brazilin, safflower dye
  • extracts or decoctions containing natural direct dye(s) in particular henna-based extracts, curcuma longa extract, sorghum leaf-sheath extract, haematoxylon campechianum extract, green tea extract, pine bark extract, cocoa extract, and logwood extract.
  • the natural direct dye be chosen from the group consisting of
  • curcuminoids santalins, chlorophyllin, haematoxylin, haematein, brazilein, brazilin, sorghum, laccaic acid, lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigoids, isatin, spinulosin, apigenin, orcein, betanin, flavonoids, anthocyans, and extracts or decoctions containing these compounds.
  • the natural direct dyes may be preferably chosen, for example, from
  • hydroxylated quinones indigoids, hydroxyflavones, santalins A and B, isatin and its derivatives, and brasilin and its hydroxylated derivative.
  • the hydroxylated quinones are preferably benzoquinones, naphthoquinones, and mono- or polyhydroxylated anthraquinones which are optionally substituted with groups such as alkyl, alkoxy, alkenyl, chloro, phenyl, hydroxyalkyl and carboxyl.
  • the naphthoquinones are preferably lawsone, juglone, flaviolin, naphthazarin,
  • the benzoquinones are preferably spinulosin, atromentin, aurentioglyocladin,
  • the anthraquinones are preferably alizarin, quinizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, chrysophanol, kermesic acid, rhein, aloe emodin, pseudopurpurin, quinizarincarboxylic acid, frangula emodin, 2-methylquinizarin, 1-hydroxyanthraquinone and 2-hydroxyanthraquinone.
  • the indigoids are preferably indigo, indirubin, isoindigo and Tyrian purple.
  • the hydroxyflavones are preferably quercetin and morin.
  • synthetic direct dye is understood to mean any dye or dye precursor that is produced by chemical synthesis.
  • the direct dye can be selected from the group consisting of acidic (anionic) direct dyes, basic (cationic) direct dyes, and neutral (nonionic) direct dyes.
  • Non-limiting examples of synthetic dyes include (nonionic) neutral, anionic (acidic), and cationic (basic) dyes such as azo, methine, carbonyl, azine, nitro(hetero)aryl types or tri(hetero)arylmethane direct dyes, porphyrins and phthalocyanines, alone or as mixtures.
  • dyes of the family of the carbonyls mention may be made, for example, of synthetic dyes chosen from acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone, pyranthrone, pyrazolanthrone, pyrimidinoanthrone, flavanthrone, indanthrone, flavone, (iso)violanthrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazolone, isoquinolinone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloqumazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine, diketopyrrolopyrrole or coumarin dyes.
  • synthetic dyes chosen from acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone, pyr
  • dyes of the family of the cyclic azines mention may in particular be made of azine, xanthene, thioxanthene, fluorindine, acridine, (di)oxazine, (di)thiazine or pyronine dyes.
  • nitro(hetero)aromatic dyes are more particularly nitrobenzene or nitropyridine direct dyes.
  • cationic or noncationic compounds optionally comprising one or more metals or metal ions, such as, for example, alkali and alkaline earth metals, zinc and silicon.
  • nitrobenzene dyes azo, azomethine or methine direct dyes
  • azacarbocyanines such as tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines), quinone and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone direct dyes, or azine, xanthene, triarylmethane, indoamine, phthalocyanine and porphyrin direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
  • these synthetic direct dyes are chosen from nitrobenzene dyes, azo, azomethine or methine direct dyes and tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines); alone or as mixtures.
  • azo, azomethine, methine or tetraazapentamethine direct dyes which can be used according to the invention, of the cationic dyes described in Patent Applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP 714 954; FR 2 189 006, FR 2 285 851, FR-2 140 205, EP 1 378 544 and EP 1 674 073.
  • D represents a nitrogen atom or the -CH group
  • Ri and R 2 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; a -C 4 alkyl radical which can be substituted by a -CN, -OH or -NH 2 radical or can form, with a carbon atom of the benzene ring, an optionally oxygen-comprising or nitrogen-comprising heterocycle which can be substituted by one or more Ci-C 4 alkyl radicals; or a 4'-aminophenyl radical,
  • R 3 and R' 3 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a cyano radical, a Q-Q alkyl radical, a C ! -C 4 alkoxy radical or an acetyloxy radical,
  • X " represents an anion, preferably chosen from chloride, methyl sulphate and acetate,
  • R 5 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical or a halogen atom, such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine,
  • R represents a hydrogen atom or a Q-Q alkyl radical or forms, with a carbon atom in the benzene ring, a heterocycle which optionally comprises oxygen and/or is optionally substituted by one or more Q-C 4 alkyl groups,
  • R 7 represents a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom, such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine,
  • X " represents a cosmetically acceptable anion preferably chosen from chloride, methyl sulphate and acetate,
  • E represents a group chosen from the following structures:
  • R' represents a Q w --C 4 0 alkyl r-adical
  • the synthetic direct dye may be selected from fluorescent dyes. Two or more types of fluorescent dyes may be used in combination. The use of some fluorescent dyes may make it possible to obtain, on dark hair, colors which are more visible than with conventional hydrophilic or hydrophobic direct dyes.
  • these fluorescent dyes when applied to dark hair, may also make it possible to lighten the hair without damaging it.
  • fluorescent dyes is understood to mean fluorescent compounds and optical brighteners.
  • the fluorescent dye is soluble in the medium of the composition.
  • Fluorescent dyes are fluorescent compounds which absorb visible radiation, for example, wavelengths ranging from 400 to 800 nm, and which are capable of re-emitting light in the visible region at a higher wavelength.
  • the fluorescent dyes useful for the present invention re-emit orange-colored fluorescent light. They exhibit, for instance, a maximum re-emission wavelength ranging from 500 to 700 nm.
  • Non-limiting examples of fluorescent dyes include compounds known in the art, for example, those described in UUmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, Release 2004, 7th edition, “Fluorescent Dyes” chapter.
  • optical brighteners of the present disclosure also known under the name of "brighteners”, or “fluorescent brighteners”, or “fluorescent brightening agents” or “FWA”, or “fluorescent whitening agents”, or “whiteners”, or “fluorescent whiteners”, are colorless transparent compounds as they do not absorb in visible light but only in ultraviolet light (wavelengths ranging from 200 to 400 nanometers) and convert the energy absorbed into fluorescent light of higher wavelength emitted in the visible part of the spectrum, generally in the blue and/or green, that is to say in wavelengths ranging from 400 to 550 nanometers.
  • Optical brighteners are known in the art, for example, they are described in UUmann's
  • the fluorescent dyes which can be used in the composition of the present disclosure include compounds known from the art, for example, those described in French Patent No. 2 830 189.
  • Soluble fluorescent compounds that may especially be mentioned include those belonging to the following families: naphthalimides, coumarins, xanthenes and in particular
  • xanthenodiquinolizines and azaxanthenes naphtholactams; azlactones; oxazines; thiazines; dioxazines; azo compounds; azomethines; methines; pyrazines; stilbenes; ketopyrroles; and pyrenes.
  • the fluorescent dyes are preferred, more particularly, those re-emitting
  • the (a) direct dye may be selected from the group consisting of acidic direct dyes, basic direct dyes and neutral direct dyes, which covers all possible types of direct dyes, such as so-called nitro dyes and HC dyes.
  • Acidic direct dyes have an anionic moiety in their chemical structure.
  • Basic direct dyes have a cationic moiety in their chemical structure.
  • Neutral direct dyes are nonionic.
  • the anionic direct dyes are commonly known as "acidic direct dyes" for their affinity with alkaline substances (see, for example, " Industrial Dyes, Chemistry, Properties, Application", Klaus Hunger Ed.
  • the preferred anionic dyes of the formula of the invention are chosen from acidic nitro direct dyes, acidic azo dyes, acidic azine dyes, acidic triarylmethane dyes, acidic indoamine dyes, acidic anthraquinone dyes, anionic styryl dyes, and indigoids and acidic natural dyes; each of these dyes containing at least one sulfonate, phosphonate or carboxylate group bearing a cationic counterion X*, where X + represents an organic or mineral cationic counter ion preferably chosen from alkali and alkaline-earth metals, such as Na + and K + Preferred acid dyes may be chosen from:
  • R 7 , Rg, R9, Rio, R'7, R' 8 , R'9 and R'io which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • alkyl > alkoxy, alkylthio
  • X, X' and X" which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
  • R"-S(0) 2 - with R" representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, aryl, (di)(alkyl)amino or aryl(alkyl)amino group; preferably a phenylamino or phenyl group;
  • aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0) 2 S(0 " )-, X + and iv) alkoxy with X + ;
  • heteroaryl preferably a benzothiazolyl group
  • Ar-N N- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group, preferably a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl,
  • W represents a sigma bond ⁇ , an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical i) -NR- with R as defined previously, or ii) methylene -C(R a )(R b )- with R a and Rb, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or alternatively R a and R form, together with the carbon atom that bears them, a spiro cycloalkyl; preferably W represents a sulfur atom or R a and R b together form a cyclohexyl;
  • formulae (II) and ( ⁇ ) comprise at least one sulfonate (0) 2 S(0 " )-, X + or phosphonate (0)P(0 2 " ) 2X + or carboxylate (O)C(O " )-, X + radical on one of the rings A, A', B, B' or C with X + as defined previously;
  • dyes of formula (II) mention may be made of Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Food Red 17, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid
  • dyes of formula ( ⁇ ) mention may be made of Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38; b) the anthraquinone dyes of formulae (III) and (III'):
  • R 22 , R 2 3, R 2 4, R25, R 2 6 and R 27 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • aryloxy or arylthio optionally substituted, preferably substituted with one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0) 2 S(0 " )-, X + with X + as defined previously;
  • aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0) 2 S(0 ⁇ )-, X + with X + as defined previously;
  • Z' represents a hydrogen atom or a group NR 2 R 29 with R 28 and R 29 , which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: - alkyl;
  • polyhydroxyalkyl such as hydroxyethyl
  • aryl optionally substituted with one or more groups, particularly i) alkyl such as methyl, «-dodecyl, rc-butyl; ii) (0) 2 S(0 " )-, X + with X + as defined previously; iii) R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"- with R°, X, X' and X" as defined previously, preferably R° represents an alkyl group;
  • cycloakyl especially cyclohexyl
  • Z represents a group chosen from hydroxyl and NR' 28 R' 29 with R' 28 and R' 29 , which may be identical or different, representing the same atoms or groups as R 28 and R 29 as defined previously;
  • formulae (III) and (III') comprise at least one sulfonate group (0) 2 S(0 ⁇ )-, X + with X + as defined previously;
  • dyes of formula (III) mention may be made of Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT Violet 2, and as examples of dyes of formula (III'), mention may be made of Acid Black 48;
  • represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl group
  • formula (IV) comprises at least one sulfonate group (0) 2 S(0 ⁇ )-, X + with X + as defined previously;
  • dyes of formula (IV) mention may be made of Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.
  • the acidic direct dye be selected from the group consisting of Acid Orange 7, Acid Violet 43 and Acid Black 1.
  • the amount of the (a) direct dye(s) may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 2% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention, with the proviso that the amount of the (a) direct dye(s) is not zero.
  • the amount of the (a) direct dye (s) may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more, and more preferably from 0.05% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may contain the (a) direct dye(s) in an amount of from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 3% by weight, and more preferably 0.05 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention includes (b) at least one fatty material. Two or more fatty materials may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty material or a combination of different types of fatty material may be used.
  • fatty material means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably 1% and even more preferentially 0.1%).
  • the fatty material may contain, in its structure, a sequence of at least two siloxane groups or at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty substances may be soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • the fatty material does not comprise any C 2 -C 3 oxyalkylene units or any glycerolated units.
  • the (b) fatty material may be in the form of a liquid or a solid.
  • liquid and solid mean that the fatty material is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) or solid, respectively, at ambient temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 rnmHg or 10 5 Pa).
  • the fatty material comprises at least one fatty material in the form of a paste or a solid, preferably in the form of a solid, at ambient temperature and under atmospheric pressure.
  • fatty materials in the form of a solid mention may be made of, for example, fatty alcohols. It is more preferably that the fatty material comprises at least one fatty material in the form of a paste or a solid, preferably in the form of a solid, and at least one fatty material in the form of a liquid, at ambient temperature and under atmospheric pressure.
  • the (b) fatty material may be selected from the group consisting of oils of animal or plant origin, mineral oils, synthetic glycerides, esters of fatty alcohols and/or fatty acids other than animal or plant oils and synthetic glycerides, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, silicone oils and aliphatic hydrocarbons. These fatty materials may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the fatty material is selected from the group consisting of oils of animal or plant origin, synthetic glycerides, fatty esters other than animal or plant oils and synthetic glycerides, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, silicone oils, and aliphatic hydrocarbons. More preferably, the (b) fatty material is selected from fatty alcohols, aliphatic hydrocarbons, preferably mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • aliphatic hydrocarbons examples include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • aliphatic hydrocarbons mention may also be made of linear or branched, or possibly cyclic C 6 -C 16 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
  • caprylic/capric acid triglycerides for instance those sold by the company, Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company, Dynamit Nobel.
  • silicone oils mention may be made of, for example, linear
  • organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes,
  • methylhydrogonpolysiloxanes and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as
  • dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like; and mixtures thereof.
  • plant oils mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, arara oil, hazelnut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • animal oils mention may be made of, for example, squalene,
  • esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol which are advantageously different from the animal or plant oils as well as the synthetic glycerides mentioned above, mention may be made especially of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched CrC 26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C!-C 26 aliphaticrmono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • dihydroabietyl behenate octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C 12 -C 15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate;
  • esters of C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of CrC 22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 2 -C 26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • diethyl sebacate diisopropyl sebacate
  • diisopropyl adipate di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate;
  • pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl
  • tetraisostearate pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate
  • propylene glycol dicaprylate propylene glycol dicaprate
  • tridecyl erucate triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate
  • propylene glycol dioctanoate neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.
  • esters mentioned above it is preferable to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stea
  • composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C3 0 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • sugars examples include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fructose, maltose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be selected from mono-, di-, tri-, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be selected, for example, from oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate mixed esters. It is more particularly preferable to use monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
  • Glucate® DO which is a methylglucose dioleate, by the company Amerchol.
  • esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid examples include:
  • sucrose palmitostearates formed from 73% monoester and 27% diester and triester, from 61% monoester and 39% diester, triester and tetraester, from 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester and tetraester, from 45% monoester and 55% diester, triester and tetraester, from 39% monoester and 61% diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;
  • Ryoto Sugar Esters for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di- triester-polyester;
  • sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE.
  • the fatty material may be at least one fatty acid, and two or more fatty acids may be used.
  • the fatty acids should be in acidic form (i.e., unsalified, to avoid soaps) and may be saturated or unsaturated and contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. They are more particularly selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.
  • the fatty material is not a fatty acid.
  • the fatty material may be at least one fatty alcohol, and two or more fatty alcohols may be used.
  • fatty alcohol here means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 -C 30 fatty alcohol, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • C 12 -C 22 fatty alcohols for example, are used. Mention may be made among these of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as myristyl alcohol can be used as a solid fatty material.
  • isostearyl alcohol can be used as a liquid fatty material.
  • the fatty material may be a wax.
  • wax means that the fatty material is substantially in the form of a solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and has a melting point generally of 35°C or more.
  • waxes generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combinations thereof.
  • the wax may be selected from camauba wax, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerites, hydrogenated jojoba oil, polyethylene waxes such as the wax sold under the name
  • silicone waxes for instance poly(C 24 -C2 8 )alkylmethyldimethylsiloxane, such as the product sold under the name "Abil Wax 9810" by the company Goldschmidt, palm butter, the C 2 o-C 4 o alkyl stearate sold under the name "Kester Wax K82H” by the company Kester Keunen, stearyl benzoate, shellac wax, and mixtures thereof.
  • a wax selected from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ozokerites, hydrogenated jojoba oil and polyethylene waxes can be used.
  • the wax is preferably selected from candelilla wax and ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the (b) fatty material(s) may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention, with the proviso that the amount of the (b) fatty material(s) is not zero.
  • the amount of the (b) fatty material(s) may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably from 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b) fatty material(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention includes (c) at least one surfactant.
  • Two or more surfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactant may be used.
  • the surfactant used in the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants and nonionic surfactants, preferably from nonionic surfactants.
  • the amount of the (c) surfactant(s) may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention, with the proviso that the amount of the (c) surfactant(s) is not zero.
  • the amount of the (c) surfactant (s) may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably from 1.0% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (c) surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one anionic surfactant. Two or more anionic surfactants may be used in combination.
  • anionic surfactant be selected from the group consisting of
  • the anionic surfactants are in the form of salts such as salts of alkali metals, for instance sodium; salts of alkaline-earth metals, for instance magnesium; ammonium salts; amine salts; and amino alcohol salts. Depending on the conditions, they may also be in acid form.
  • the anionic surfactant be selected from salts of (C 6 -C 30 )alkyl sulfate, (C 6 -C 30 )alkyl ether sulfates or polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 3 o)alkyl ether carboxylic acid salified or not.
  • the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant.
  • Two or more amphoteric surfactants may be used in combination.
  • the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be, for example (non-limiting list), amine derivatives such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain including 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example, carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate).
  • the amphoteric surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaines and amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives.
  • amphoteric surfactant be selected from betaine-type surfactants.
  • the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, and
  • alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines in particular, (C 8 -C 2 4)alkylbetaines
  • amphoteric surfactants of betaine type are chosen from (C 8 -C2 4 )alkylbetaines,
  • Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include the compounds classified in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook, 15th Edition, 2014, under the names cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco/oleamidopropylbetaine,
  • cocamidoethylbetaine cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine, oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine, cocohydroxysultaine, laurylhydroxysultaine, and cocosultaine, alone or as mixtures.
  • the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably an alkylbetaine and an
  • alkylamidoalkylbetaine in particular cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.
  • amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781 ,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 (the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference), under the names Amphocarboxyglycinates and
  • Ri denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Ri-COOH present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical,
  • R 2 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group
  • R 3 denotes a carboxymethyl group
  • M + denotes a cationic ion derived from alkaline metals such as sodium; ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • X denotes an organic or inorganic anionic ion such as halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(CrC 4 )sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C 4 )- or alkyl(C 1 -C4)aryl-sulfonates, particularly methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or M + and X " are not present;
  • Rj' denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Ri'-COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, such as a C 7 , C 9 , Cn or C 13 alkyl radical, a C 17 alkyl radical and its iso-form, or an unsaturated Cn radical,
  • X' denotes a -CH 2 -COOH group, -CH 2 -COOZ', -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH, -CH 2 CH 2 -COOZ' or a hydrogen atom
  • Y' denotes -COOH, -COOZ', -CH 2 -CHOH-S0 3 Z', -CH 2 -CHOH-S0 3 H radical or a
  • Z' represents an ion of an alkaline or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ion derived from an organic amine or an ammonium ion;
  • Y denotes -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ", -CH 2 -CH(OH)-S0 3 H or -CH 2 -CH(OH)-S0 3 -Z", wherein Z" denotes a cationic ion derived from alkaline metal or alkaline-earth metals such as sodium, an ion derived from organic amine or an ammonium ion;
  • Rd and Re denote a Q-C4 alkyl or Ci-C 4 hydroxyalkyl radical
  • R a denotes a C 10 -C 3 o group alkyl or alkenyl group from an acid
  • n and n' independently denote an integer from 1 to 3.
  • amphoteric surfactant with formula Bl and B2 be selected from
  • Caprylamphodiacetate Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphopropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol® C2M concentrate by the company Rhodia Chimie.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cationic surfactant. Two or more cationic surfactants may be used in combination.
  • the cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of optionally
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include, but are not limited to:
  • Ri, R 2 , R 3 , and R4 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic radicals including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally including heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic radicals may be chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, C 2 -C 6 polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide,
  • R 5 is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow or of coconut;
  • R 6 is chosen from hydrogen, Q-Q alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
  • R 7 is chosen from Ci-C 4 alkyl radicals
  • R 8 is chosen from hydrogen and C 1-C4 alkyl radicals
  • X " is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates.
  • R 5 and R ⁇ s are, for example, a mixture of radicals chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 7 is methyl and R 8 is hydrogen.
  • CFA Quaternium-27
  • CFA 1997) Quaternium-83
  • Rewoquat® W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by the company Witco
  • R 9 is chosen from aliphatic radicals including from 16 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 10 is chosen from hydrogen or alkyl radicals including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group
  • Rn, R 12 , Ri3, R 14 , R 16a , Ri7 a , and R 18a which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl radicals including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and X " is chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates, and methyl sulfates.
  • diquaternary ammonium salt is FINQUAT CT-P of FINETEX
  • quaternary ammonium salts including at least one ester function, such as those of formula (B6) below:
  • R 22 is chosen from C ! -C 6 alkyl radicals and C C 6 hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl radicals;
  • R 23 is chosen from:
  • R 25 is chosen from:
  • R24, R2 6 , and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C 7 -C 21 , hydrocarbon-based radicals;
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10;
  • X " is chosen from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions; with the proviso that the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, R 23 denotes R 27 , and that when z is 0, R 25 denotes R 29 .
  • R 22 may be chosen from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R 22 is chosen from linear alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R 22 is chosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, and dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example methyl and ethyl radicals.
  • the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 10.
  • R 23 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R 27 , it may be long and include from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and include from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 25 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R 29 , it may include, for example, from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 24 , R 26 , and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, Cn-C 2 i hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated Cn-C 21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2.
  • the anion X " may be chosen from, for example, halides, such as chloride, bromide, and iodide; and Q-C4 alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate.
  • methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate and lactate, and any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium including an ester function are other non-limiting examples of anions that may be used according to the present invention.
  • the anion X " is chosen from chloride and methyl sulfate.
  • ammonium salts of formula (B6) may be used, wherein:
  • R 22 is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals
  • x and y are equal to 1 ;
  • z is equal to 0 or 1 ;
  • r, s and t are equal to 2;
  • R 23 is chosen from:
  • R 25 is chosen from:
  • R 24 , R 26 , and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C 13 -Ci 7 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C 13 -C 17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
  • the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.
  • Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (B6) that may be mentioned include salts, for example chloride and methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of
  • the acyl radicals may include from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and may be derived, for example, from a plant oil, for instance palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound includes several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
  • alkyldiisopropanolamine onto fatty acids or onto mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof.
  • This esterification may be followed by a quatemization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydr
  • ammonium salts that may be used in the composition according to the present invention include the ammonium salts including at least one ester function described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180.
  • quaternary ammonium salts mentioned above that may be used in the composition according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, those corresponding to formula (I), for example tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance
  • dialkyldimethylammonium and alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical includes from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium,
  • the cationic surfactant that may be used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87, Quaternium-22, behenylamidopropyl-2,3 -dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride,
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • Two or more nonionic surfactants may be used in combination.
  • the nonionic surfactants are compounds well known in and of themselves (see, e.g., in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants” by M. R. Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178).
  • they can, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range from 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerol groups to range from 1 to 30.
  • Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned.
  • N-(C 1 o-C 14 )acylaminopropylmo holine oxides N-(C 1 o-C 14 )acylaminopropylmo holine oxides; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.
  • the nonionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated,
  • the oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene units.
  • monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants examples include:
  • esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 -C 3 o acids and of polyalkylene glycols are examples of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 -C 3 o acids and of polyalkylene glycols,
  • the surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100 and most preferably between 2 and 50.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (polyethylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol) and polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (polyethylene glycol ester of fatty acid).
  • polyoxyethylenated saturated fatty alcohol examples include the adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 10 to 12 oxyethylene units (Laureth-10 to Laureth-12, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene units (Beheneth-9 to Beheneth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (Ceteareth-10 to Ceteareth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (Ceteth-10 to Ceteth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to
  • Steareth-50 as the CTFA names
  • the adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (Isosteareth-10 to Isosteareth-50, as the CTFA names); and mixtures thereof.
  • polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohol or Cg-C 30 alcohols
  • examples of polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohol (or Cg-C 30 alcohols) include the adducts of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 10 to 40 oxyethylene units (Oleth-10 to Oleth-40, as the CTFA names); and mixture thereof.
  • monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated Cs-Qo alcohols are preferably used.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 4 o alcohols correspond to the following formula:
  • Lauryl Ether Lauryl Ether
  • lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol
  • oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether
  • cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol
  • cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol
  • octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
  • the alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohol may coexist in the form of a mixture.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols it is preferable to use the C 8 /C 10 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the Q0/Q2 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C 12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 fatty esters may correspond to the following formula:
  • polyoxyethylenated fatty esters examples include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG- 100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.
  • CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate PEG-9 to PEG-50
  • the nonionic surfactant may be selected from esters of polyols with fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, such as glyceryl esters of a C 8 -C 24 , preferably Ci 2 -C 22 , fatty acid or acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sorbitol esters of a C 8 -C 24 , preferably C 12 -C 22 , fatty acid or acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sugar (sucrose, maltose, glucose
  • glyceryl esters of fatty acids glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof can be cited, and as polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether of glycerol), preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and/or tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and/or tristearate) can be cited.
  • polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof mono-, di- or
  • surfactants such as for example the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG- 100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE), can also be used.
  • the sorbitol esters of C 8 -C 24 fatty acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof can be selected from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate and esters of fatty acids and alkoxylated sorbitan containing for example from 20 to 100 EO, such as for example sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 40, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name:
  • polysorbate 65 sold by the company ICI under the name Tween 65, polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85) or the compounds marketed under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema.
  • esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, methylglucoside fatty esters, the diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate), the mixed ester of methylglucoside and the mixture of oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxystearate), the ester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose isostearate), the ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose laurate), the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl
  • ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by AMERCHOL, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methyl-glucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by AMERCHOL and that marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by GOLDSCHMIDT, and mixtures thereof, can for example be cited.
  • sucrose esters saccharose palmito-stearate
  • saccharose
  • alkylpolyglucosides can be used, and for example decylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product marketed under the name PLANTAREN 2000 by Henkel, and the product marketed under the name
  • ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by Seppic or under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF, laurylglucoside such as the products marketed under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by Henkel, coco-glucoside such as the product marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818/UP by Henkel, cetostearyl glucoside possibly mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel, arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic, cocoylethylglucoside, for example in
  • glycerides of alkoxylated plant oils such as mixtures of ethoxylated (200 EO) palm and copra (7 EO) glycerides can also be cited.
  • the nonionic surfactant according to the present invention preferably contains alkenyl or a branched C 12 -C 22 acyl chain such as an oleyl or isostearyl group. More preferably, the nonionic surfactant according to the present invention is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.
  • the nonionic surfactant may be selected from copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, in particular copolymers of the following formula: HO(C 2 H 4 0) a (C 3 H 6 0)b(C 2 H 4 0) c H in which a, b and c are integers such that a+c ranges from 2 to 100 and b ranges from 14 to 60, and mixtures thereof.
  • the nonionic surfactant may be selected from silicone surfactants. Non-limiting mention may be made of those disclosed in documents US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744.
  • the silicone surfactant may preferably be a compound of formula (I):
  • R ⁇ , R 2 and R 3 independently of each other, represent a Ci-C 6 alkyl radical or a radical
  • R 1 at least one radical R 1; R 2 or R 3 not being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical;
  • A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
  • B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the proviso that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero;
  • x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
  • y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;
  • z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
  • the alkyl radical is a methyl radical
  • x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6
  • y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
  • silicone surfactants of formula (I) mention may be made of the compounds of formula (II):
  • A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105
  • B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10
  • y is . an integer ranging from 10 to 20.
  • silicone surfactants of formula (I) mention may also be made of the compounds of formula (III): H-(OCH 2 CH 2 ) y -(CH 2 )3-[(CH 3 ) 2 SiO]A'-(CH 2 ) 3 -(OCH 2 CH 2 ) y -OH (III) in which A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.
  • compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (II) in which, respectively, A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.
  • the compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) in which A is 15 and y is 13. [Alcohol (other than fatty material)]
  • composition according to the present invention includes (d) at least one monovalent alcohol other than the (b) fatty material, in particular the fatty alcohol.
  • monovalent alcohol other than the (b) fatty material
  • Two or more such alcohols may be used in combination.
  • a single type of such alcohol or a combination of different types of such alcohol may be used.
  • the (d) monovalent alcohol is preferably in the form of a liquid at ambient temperature such as 25°C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 10 5 Pa).
  • monovalent alcohol here means an alcohol having one hydroxy group.
  • the (d) monovalent alcohol may be non-aromatic (aliphatic) or aromatic.
  • the non-aromatic monovalent alcohol is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched lower aliphatic monovalent alcohol, more preferably C 2 -C 6 aliphatic monovalent alcohol, even more preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 2 -C 5 aliphatic monovalent alcohol, most preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 2 -C 4 aliphatic monovalent alcohol.
  • Preferred non-aromatic monovalent alcohols are ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof.
  • the aromatic monovalent alcohol is preferably selected from the group consisting of benzyl alcohol, phenethylalcohol, diphenyl ethanol, cinnamyl alcohol, tryptophol,
  • the (d) monovalent alcohol other than the (b) fatty material be selected from the group consisting of lower aliphatic alcohols, aromatic alcohols and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from the group consisting of ethanol, benzyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the (d) monovalent alcohol(s) other than the (b) fatty material may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention, with the proviso that the amount of the (d) monovalent alcohol(s) is not zero.
  • the amount of the (d) monovalent alcohol(s) other than the (b) fatty material may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably from 1.0% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (d) monovalent alcohol(s) other than the (b) fatty material in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the benzyl alcohol may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention, with the proviso that the amount of the benzyl alcohol is not zero.
  • the amount of the benzyl alcohol may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably from 1.0% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the benzyl alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention includes (e) at least one specific diester compound. Two or more diester compounds may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of diester compound or a combination of different types of diester compound may be used.
  • the (e) diester compound can be represented by the following general formula (A) R 1 -(OCH 2 CH 2 ) m -OOC-R-COO-(CH 2 CH 2 0) n -R 2 (A) wherein
  • R 1 and R 2 independently, denote a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, monovalent Q to C 12 hydrocarbon group,
  • R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, divalent Q to C 12
  • n and n independently, denote an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 1 to 15, and more preferably from 2 to 11.
  • R 1 and R 2 independently, be a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic, monovalent Q to C 12 hydrocarbon group, more preferably a linear, branched or cyclic d to C 12 alkyl group, such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, an iso-propyl group, an n-butyl group, an iso-butyl group, an n-pentyl group, an n-hexyl group, a cyclohexyl group, an n-octyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, an n-decyl group and n-dodecyl group, even more preferably a methyl group and an ethyl group, and in particular an ethyl group.
  • a linear, branched or cyclic d to C 12 alkyl group such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl
  • R be a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic, divalent C to C 12 hydrocarbon group, more preferably a linear, branched or cyclic C ⁇ to C 12 alkylene group, such as a methylene group, an ethylene group, a propylene group, an iso-propylene group, an
  • n-butylene group an iso-butylene group, an n-pentylene group, an n-hexylene group, a cyclohexylene group, an n-octylene group, a 2-ethylhexylene group, an n-decylene group and n-dodecylene group, even more preferably a cyclohexylene group, and in particular a
  • n and n independently, be 2 or 3.
  • dicarboxylate (INCI name: Bis-ethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1,4-dicarboxylate) and dicarbitol succinate (INCI name: Bis-ethoxydiglycol succinate) are more preferable.
  • Bis(diethyleneglycolmonoethylether) 1 ,4-cyclohexane dicarboxylate is available from the market under the name of Neosolue-Aqulio from Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • Dicarbitol succinate (INCI name: Bis-ethoxydiglycol succinate) is available from the market under the name of HAIAQUEOUSTER DCS from Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Ltd.
  • the (e) diester compound may be a diester of dicarboxylic acid and polyoxyethylene monoalkyl ether.
  • the (e) diester compound may be a diester of
  • R is as defined above, and polyoxyethylene monoalkyl ethers represented by the general following formulae (A-2) and (A-3):
  • R 1 and R 2 , and m and n are defined as above.
  • Saturated linear dicarboxylic acids such as succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, and 1,10-dodecanedicarboxylic acid;
  • Saturated branched dicarboxylic acids such as 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid
  • Saturated or unsaturated cyclic dicarboxylic acids such as 1,2-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid,
  • Saturated linear dicarboxylic acids such as succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, and
  • 10-dodecanedicarboxylic acid and saturated or unsaturated cyclic dicarboxylic acids such as 1,2-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid,
  • 1.4- cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, and terephthalic acid are preferable.
  • Succinic acid, adipic acid, 1 ,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid are more preferable, and 1 ,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid is even more preferable.
  • the dicarboxylic acid represented by the formula (A-1) may be in the form of acid anhydride.
  • Triethyleneglycolmonoethylether Diethyleneglycolmonoethylether is preferable.
  • the (e) diester compound can be prepared by reacting the dicarboxylic acid represented by the following formula (A-1) and the polyoxyethylene monoalkyl ethers represented by the general following formulae (A-2) and (A-3).
  • the process of the above reaction is not limited, and can be performed in accordance with known esterification methods.
  • the dicarboxylic acid represented by the following formula (A-1) and the polyoxyethylene monoalkyl ethers represented by the general following formulae (A-2) and (A-3) can be reacted with or without a solvent at a temperature of, for example, from 100 to 300°C, preferably from 150 to 260°C.
  • the molar ratio of the dicarboxylic acid represented by the following formula (A-l)/the polyoxyethylene monoalkyl ethers represented by the general following formulae (A-2) and (A-3) may vary depending on the reaction conditions, but can be from 0.1 to 1, preferably from 0.2 to 0.8, more preferably from 0. 3 to 0.6, and even more preferably about 0.5.
  • organic solvents such as toluene and heptane may be used.
  • a catalyst may be used for promoting the esterification reaction.
  • acid catalysts such as
  • the (e) diester compound obtained by the above esterification reaction may be purified in accordance with known purification methods. It is preferable that the (e) diester compound have a purity of 90% by weight or more, more preferable 95% by weight or more, and even more preferably 99% by weight or more.
  • the amount of the (e) diester compound(s) may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention, with the proviso that the amount of the (e) diester compound(s) is not zero.
  • the amount of the (e) diester compound(s) may be 0.01%» by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably from 0.1 % by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (e) diester compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01%) to 15%> by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10%> by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (f) water.
  • the amount of (f) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 40% to 90% by weight, preferably from 45% to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 50 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may further comprise (g) at least one polyol.
  • Two or more polyols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of polyol or a combination of different types of polyol may be used.
  • polyol here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not encompass a saccharide or a derivative thereof.
  • the derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has or have been replaced with at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.
  • the (g) polyol(s) used in the present invention be liquid at ambient temperature such as 25°C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 10 5 Pa).
  • the (g) polyol may be a C 2 -C 24 polyol, preferably a C 2 -C 9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.
  • the (g) polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol.
  • the (g) polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
  • the (g) polyol may be selected from glycerins and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof.
  • the polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol,
  • the amount of the (g) polyol(s) may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the
  • composition according to the present invention with the proviso that the amount of the (g) polyol(s) is not zero.
  • the amount of the (g) polyol(s) may be 0.1 % by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably from 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (g) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the composition according to the present invention may be adjusted to the desired value using acidifying or basifying agents commonly used in dyeing keratinous fibers or else using conventional buffer systems.
  • the composition according to the present invention is preferably acidic. Therefore, it is preferable that the pH of the composition be from 1 to 6, more preferably from 2 to 5, and even more preferably from 2 to 4.
  • acidifying agents mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, ortho-phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
  • mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, ortho-phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
  • basifying agents mention may be made, by way of example, of ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and also their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxide and compounds of the formula below:
  • W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl radical
  • Sodium or potassium hydroxide is preferable, because this can also function to form in situ the (c) buffering agent.
  • the acidifying or basifying agent may be used in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10%) by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the present invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing hair, such as anionic, non-ionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof, antioxidants, thickening agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, film-forming agents, ceramides, preservatives and opacifying agents.
  • the form of the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, as long as it is water-based, and may take various forms such as an emulsion (O/W or W/O form), an aqueous gel, an aqueous solution, or the like. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of an O/W emulsion.
  • the composition according to the present invention is a composition for dyeing keratin fibers, and is preferably a cosmetic composition for dyeing keratin fibers.
  • the "keratin fibers” here mean fibers which include at least one keratin substance. It is preferable that at least a part of the surface of the keratin fibers be formed by keratin fibers. Examples of keratin fibers include hair, eyebrows, eyelashes, and the like. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be used for dyeing hair.
  • composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the ingredients (a) to (f), as essential ingredients, as well as optional ingredient(s), as explained above.
  • the method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
  • the composition according to the present invention is preferably a so-called one-part composition or a ready-to-use composition.
  • the expression "ready-to-use composition” is defined herein as a composition to be applied immediately to keratin fibers such as hair.
  • a so-called one-part composition does not need to mix ingredients in the composition prior to use. Therefore, it is easy for a consumer to use the composition according to the present invention for dyeing keratin fibers.
  • composition according to the present invention Furthermore, stable coloring of keratin fibers is possible for the composition according to the present invention, because it is not possible to fail to mix ingredients in a precise mixing ratio which is required for two-part compositions for dyeing keratin fibers.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers.
  • the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers can be performed by a conventional applicator such as a brush, or even by the hands.
  • the keratin fibers to which the composition according to the present invention has been applied can be left for an appropriate time which is required to treat the keratin fibers.
  • the time length for the treatment is not limited, but it may be from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably 1 minute to 30 minutes, and more preferably 1 minute to 15 minutes.
  • the time for dyeing the keratin fibers may be from 1 to 20 minutes, preferably 5 to 15 minutes.
  • the keratin fibers may be treated at room temperature.
  • the keratin fibers can be heated at 25°C to 65°C, preferably 30°C to 60°C, more preferably 35 °C to 55°C, and even more preferably 40°C to 50°C, during the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers, and/or the step of leaving the keratin fibers to which the composition according to the present invention has been applied.
  • the keratin fibers may be rinsed after the step of applying the composition according to the keratin fibers onto the keratin fibers and/or after the step of leaving the keratin fibers to which the composition according to the present invention has been applied.
  • the present invention may also relate to the use of the composition according to the present invention for dyeing keratin fibers such as hair.
  • Each of the cosmetic compositions for dyeing hair according to Examples 1-4 (Ex. 1 to Ex. 4) and Comparative Examples 1-5 (Comp. Ex. 1 to Comp. Ex. 5) was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 at room temperature. The pH of the composition was adjusted to pH 2.7. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.
  • compositions according to Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-5 were evenly applied onto 1 g of a tress of 100% white natural human hair. The tress was then left for 10 minutes at 40°C, followed by washing with water, shampooing, rinsing once and drying the tress. The difference in color of the tress before and after the above dyeing process was measured by using Konica Minolta Spectrophotometer CM-3600d. ⁇
  • Fair: ⁇ is from 33 to 36, inclusive.
  • Each (0.1 ml) of the compositions according to Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-5 was applied onto the surface of an artificial skin such that the applied area formed a circle with a diameter of 1 cm.
  • the applied surface was left for 10 minutes at 40°C, followed by thoroughly washing out the composition with water, and drying the surface.
  • the difference in color of the surface before and after the above application process was measured by using Konica Minolta Spectrophotometer CM-3600d.
  • ⁇ * (between the color of the surface before the application and the color of the surface after the application based on CIE1976) was calculated. The smaller ⁇ is, the weaker the stain is.
  • the measured ⁇ was evaluated in accordance with the evaluation criteria shown below.
  • ⁇ * is less than 5.
  • Fair: ⁇ * is from 5 to 10, inclusive.
  • Example 1 As a result of comparison between Example 1 and Example 4, it is clear that it is preferable for a cosmetic composition for dyeing hair according to the present invention to use
  • hydrocarbon-based oil as a fatty material in order to further reduce skin staining.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably in the form of an O/W emulsion, for dyeing keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising: (a) at least one direct dye; (b) at least one fatty material; (c) at least one surfactant; (d) at least one monovalent alcohol other than the (b) fatty material; (e) at least one specific diester compound; and (f) water. The composition according to the present invention can prevent or reduce skin staining by the direct dye on the skin such as the scalp, while providing the keratin fibers with good cosmetic effects such as good coloring properties.

Description

DESCRIPTION
COMPOSITION FOR DYEING KERATIN FIBERS TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a composition for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular for dyeing keratin fibers with at least one direct dye, as well as a process using the same. BACKGROUND ART
It is known to dye keratin fibers, in particular human hair, with dyeing compositions containing oxidative coloring precursors, generally called oxidative bases, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidative bases are generally combined with couplers. These bases and these couplers are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds through an xidative condensation process.
This type of coloring by oxidation makes .it possible to obtain colors with very high visibility, the ability to cover white hair and in a wide variety of shades but it results in damage to the keratin fibers due to the use of oxidizing agents and alkaline agents (in particular by repeated application or by combination with other hair treatments).
On the other hand, it is also known to" dye keratin fibers, in particular human hair, with dyeing compositions containing direct dyes:;' Conventional direct dyes are in particular the following: benzene nitrates, anthraquinones, nitropyridines, azos, xanthines, acridines, azines, and triarylmethane type or natural colorings.
For example, JP-A-2008- 195663 discloses a composition for dyeing hair, including a direct dye.
Hair coloration using direct dyes has advantages over hair coloration using oxidative dyes: it rarely gives rise to allergic issues, it causes no damage to the hair, and it gives vivid color visibility.
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
However, skin staining has been an inevitable drawback of hair coloration using direct dyes. An joJbj.e_c.tive of the present.inventi'onis to^provide a composition foLdyeing keratin fibers which uses a direct dye, but can prevent or reduce skin staining by the direct dye on the skin such as the scalp, while providing the keratin fibers with excellent cosmetic effects such as good (or at least acceptable) coloring properties. The above objective can be achieved by a composition, preferably in the form of an O/W emulsion, for dyeing keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising:
(a) at least one direct dye;
(b) at least one fatty material;
(c) at least one surfactant;
(d) at least one monovalent alcohol other than the (b) fatty material; at least one diester compound represented by the following general formula (A) R1-(OCH2CH2)m -OOC-R-COO-(CH2CH20)n -R2 (A) wherein
R1 and R2, independently, denote a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, monovalent Q to C12 hydrocarbon group,
R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, divalent C\ to C12 hydrocarbon group, and
m and n, independently, denote an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 1 to 15, and more preferably from 2 to 11 ; and
(f) water.
The (a) direct dye may be selected from the group consisting of acidic direct dyes, basic direct dyes and neutral direct dyes, and preferably from acidic direct dyes.
The (a) direct dye may be selected from the compounds according to the chemical formulae (II) and (IF), (III) and (ΙΙΓ), and (IV) shown later. The amount of the (a) direct dye in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The (b) fatty material may be selected from fatty alcohols, hydrocarbon oils, preferably mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.
The amount of the (b) fatty material may range from 1 % to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40%) by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The (c) surfactant may be selected from nonionic surfactants.
The amount of the (c) surfactant may range from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10%) by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5%> by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The (d) monovalent alcohol other than the (b) fatty material may be selected from lower- aliphatic alcohols, aromatic alcohols, and mixtures thereof, and may preferably be selected from the group consisting of ethanol, benzyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
The amount of the (d) monovalent alcohol other than the (b) fatty material may range from 0.1% to 15%) by weight, preferably from 0.5%> to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1%) to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The (e) diester compound may be a diester of
a dicarboxylic acid represented by the following formula (A-l):
HOOC-R-COOH (A-l) wherein R is as defined above, and
polyoxyethylene monoalkyl ethers represented by the general following formulae (A-2) and (A-3): R^OCH2CH2)ra -OH (A-2)
and
HO-(CH2CH20)n -R2 (A-3) wherein
R1 and R2, and m and n are defined as above.
The amount of the (e) diester compound may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05%) to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (f) water may range from 40% to 90% by weight, preferably from 45% to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention further comprise (g) at least one polyol.
The present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers.
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition, preferably in the form of an O/W emulsion, for dyeing keratin fibers, preferably hair, which includes a direct dye, but can prevent or reduce skin staining by the direct dye on the skin such as the scalp, while providing the keratin fibers with excellent cosmetic effects such as good (or at least acceptable) coloring properties. Thus, the composition according to the present invention, preferably in the form of an O/W emulsion, is intended for dyeing keratin fibers, preferably hair, and comprises:
(a) at least one direct dye;
(b) at least one fatty material;
(c) at least one surfactant;
(d) at least one alcohol other than the (b) fatty material;
(e) at least one compound represented by the following general formula (A)
R1-(OCH2CH2)m -OOC-R-COO-(CH2CH20)n -R2 (A) wherein
R1 and R2, independently, denote a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, monovalent C\ to C12 hydrocarbon group,
R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, divalent C\ to C12 hydrocarbon group, and
m and n, independently, denote an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 1 to 15, and more preferably from 2 to 11 ; and
(f) water.
The composition according to the present invention can be used for dyeing keratin fibers, preferably hair.
In general, compositions for dyeing hair including a direct dye may comprise benzyl alcohol in order to enhance hair coloring effects of the composition. However, benzyl alcohol may also enhance skin coloring by the composition.
Accordingly, in general, it is preferable that compositions for dyeing hair including a direct dye include a limited or reduced amount of benzyl alcohol. However, the limited or reduced amount of benzyl alcohol may deteriorate hair coloring effects Of the compositions.
On the other hand, the composition according to the present invention can provide good (or at least acceptable) coloring effects even if the composition includes a limited or reduced amount of benzyl alcohol as the (d) alcohol, while it can prevent or reduce skin staining by the direct dye on the skin such as the scalp.
The composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, preferably hair.
Hereafter, the composition according to the present invention will be described in a detailed manner.
[Direct Dye]
The composition according to the present invention includes (a) at least one direct dye. Two or more direct dyes may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of direct dye or a combination of different types of direct dyes may be used.
A direct dye means a colored substance which does not require the use of an oxidizing agent in order to develop its color.
The direct dye may be a natural direct dye or a synthetic direct dye.
The expression "natural direct dye" is understood to mean any dye or dye precursor that is naturally occurring and is produced by extraction (and optionally purification) from a plant matrix or an animal such as an insect, optionally in the presence of natural compounds such as ash or ammonia.
As natural direct dyes, mention may be made of quinone dyes (such as lawsone and juglone), alizarin, purpurin, laccaic acid, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin,
protocatechaldehyde, indigoids such as indigo, sorghum, isatin, betanin, curcuminoids (such as curcumin), spinulosin, various types of chlorophyll and chlorophyllin, hematoxylin, hematein, brazilein, brazilin, safflower dyes (such as carthamin), flavonoids (such as rutin, quercetin, catechin, epicatechin, morin, apigenidin, and sandalwood), anthocyans (such as apigeninidin and apigenin), carotenoids, tannins, orceins, santalins and cochineal carmine. It is also possible to use extracts or decoctions containing natural direct dye(s), in particular henna-based extracts, curcuma longa extract, sorghum leaf-sheath extract, haematoxylon campechianum extract, green tea extract, pine bark extract, cocoa extract, and logwood extract.
It is preferable that the natural direct dye be chosen from the group consisting of
curcuminoids, santalins, chlorophyllin, haematoxylin, haematein, brazilein, brazilin, sorghum, laccaic acid, lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigoids, isatin, spinulosin, apigenin, orcein, betanin, flavonoids, anthocyans, and extracts or decoctions containing these compounds.
Alternatively, the natural direct dyes may be preferably chosen, for example, from
hydroxylated quinones, indigoids, hydroxyflavones, santalins A and B, isatin and its derivatives, and brasilin and its hydroxylated derivative.
The hydroxylated quinones are preferably benzoquinones, naphthoquinones, and mono- or polyhydroxylated anthraquinones which are optionally substituted with groups such as alkyl, alkoxy, alkenyl, chloro, phenyl, hydroxyalkyl and carboxyl. The naphthoquinones are preferably lawsone, juglone, flaviolin, naphthazarin,
naphthopurpurin, lapachol, plumbagin, chloroplumbagin, droserone, shikonin,
2- hydroxy-3 -methyl- 1 ,4 -naphthoquinone, 3 ,5-dihydroxy- 1 ,4-naphthoquinone,
2,5-dihydroxy- 1 ,4-naphthoquinone, 2-methoxy-5-hydroxy- 1 ,4-naphthoquinone and
3 - methoxy-5 -hydroxy- 1 ,4-naphthoquinone.
The benzoquinones are preferably spinulosin, atromentin, aurentioglyocladin,
2,5-dihydroxy-6-methylbenzoquinone, 2-hydroxy-3-methyl-6-methoxybenzoquinone, 2, 5-dihydroxy-3,6-diphenylbenzoquinone, 2,3-dimethyl-5-hydroxy-6-methoxybenzoquinone and 2,5-dihydroxy-6-isopropylbenzoquinone.
The anthraquinones are preferably alizarin, quinizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, chrysophanol, kermesic acid, rhein, aloe emodin, pseudopurpurin, quinizarincarboxylic acid, frangula emodin, 2-methylquinizarin, 1-hydroxyanthraquinone and 2-hydroxyanthraquinone. The indigoids are preferably indigo, indirubin, isoindigo and Tyrian purple.
The hydroxyflavones are preferably quercetin and morin.
The expression "synthetic direct dye" is understood to mean any dye or dye precursor that is produced by chemical synthesis.
The direct dye can be selected from the group consisting of acidic (anionic) direct dyes, basic (cationic) direct dyes, and neutral (nonionic) direct dyes. Non-limiting examples of synthetic dyes include (nonionic) neutral, anionic (acidic), and cationic (basic) dyes such as azo, methine, carbonyl, azine, nitro(hetero)aryl types or tri(hetero)arylmethane direct dyes, porphyrins and phthalocyanines, alone or as mixtures.
More particularly, the azo dyes comprise an -N=N- functional group, the two nitrogen atoms of which are not simultaneously involved in a ring. However, it is not ruled out for one of the two nitrogen atoms of the -N=N- sequence to be involved in a ring.
The dyes of the family of the methines are more particularly compounds comprising at least one sequence chosen from >C=C< and -N=C<, the two atoms of which are not
simultaneously involved in a ring. However, it is specified that one of the nitrogen or carbon atoms of the sequences can be involved in a ring. More particularly, the dyes of this family result from compounds of the following types: true methine (comprising one or more of the above-mentioned -C=C- sequences); azomethine (comprising at least one or more -C=N- sequences) with, for example, the azacarbocyanines and their isomers, the diazacarbocyanines and their isomers, the tetraazacarbocyanines; mono- and diary lmethane; indoamines (or diphenylamines); indophenols; indoanilines.
As regards the dyes of the family of the carbonyls, mention may be made, for example, of synthetic dyes chosen from acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone, pyranthrone, pyrazolanthrone, pyrimidinoanthrone, flavanthrone, indanthrone, flavone, (iso)violanthrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazolone, isoquinolinone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloqumazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine, diketopyrrolopyrrole or coumarin dyes. As regards the dyes of the family of the cyclic azines, mention may in particular be made of azine, xanthene, thioxanthene, fluorindine, acridine, (di)oxazine, (di)thiazine or pyronine dyes.
The nitro(hetero)aromatic dyes are more particularly nitrobenzene or nitropyridine direct dyes.
As regards the dyes of porphyrin or phthalocyanine type, use may be made of cationic or noncationic compounds optionally comprising one or more metals or metal ions, such as, for example, alkali and alkaline earth metals, zinc and silicon.
Mention may be made, as examples of synthetic direct dyes which are particularly suitable, of nitrobenzene dyes, azo, azomethine or methine direct dyes, azacarbocyanines, such as tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines), quinone and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone direct dyes, or azine, xanthene, triarylmethane, indoamine, phthalocyanine and porphyrin direct dyes, alone or as mixtures. More preferably still, these synthetic direct dyes are chosen from nitrobenzene dyes, azo, azomethine or methine direct dyes and tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines); alone or as mixtures.
Mention may be made, among the azo, azomethine, methine or tetraazapentamethine direct dyes which can be used according to the invention, of the cationic dyes described in Patent Applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP 714 954; FR 2 189 006, FR 2 285 851, FR-2 140 205, EP 1 378 544 and EP 1 674 073.
Thus, mention may very particularly be made of the cationic direct dyes corresponding to the following formulae:
Figure imgf000007_0001
in which:
D represents a nitrogen atom or the -CH group,
Ri and R2, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; a -C4 alkyl radical which can be substituted by a -CN, -OH or -NH2 radical or can form, with a carbon atom of the benzene ring, an optionally oxygen-comprising or nitrogen-comprising heterocycle which can be substituted by one or more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; or a 4'-aminophenyl radical,
R3 and R'3, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a cyano radical, a Q-Q alkyl radical, a C!-C4 alkoxy radical or an acetyloxy radical,
X" represents an anion, preferably chosen from chloride, methyl sulphate and acetate,
Figure imgf000008_0001
in which 4 represents a C C4 alkyl radical which can be substituted by a hydroxyl radical;
Figure imgf000008_0002
in which:
R5 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkoxy radical or a halogen atom, such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine,
R represents a hydrogen atom or a Q-Q alkyl radical or forms, with a carbon atom in the benzene ring, a heterocycle which optionally comprises oxygen and/or is optionally substituted by one or more Q-C4 alkyl groups,
R7 represents a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom, such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine,
Di and D2, which are identical or different, represent a nitrogen atom or the -CH group, m = 0 or 1 ,
X" represents a cosmetically acceptable anion preferably chosen from chloride, methyl sulphate and acetate,
E represents a group chosen from the following structures:
Figure imgf000008_0003
in which R' represents a Q w--C40 alkyl r-adical;
when m = 0 and when Dj represents a nitrogen atom, then E can also denote a group with the following structure:
R'
N
N+
I
R'
in which R' represents a Ci-C4 alkyl radical. The synthetic direct dye may be selected from fluorescent dyes. Two or more types of fluorescent dyes may be used in combination. The use of some fluorescent dyes may make it possible to obtain, on dark hair, colors which are more visible than with conventional hydrophilic or hydrophobic direct dyes.
Furthermore, these fluorescent dyes, when applied to dark hair, may also make it possible to lighten the hair without damaging it.
As used herein, the term "fluorescent dyes" is understood to mean fluorescent compounds and optical brighteners. In at least one embodiment, the fluorescent dye is soluble in the medium of the composition. Fluorescent dyes are fluorescent compounds which absorb visible radiation, for example, wavelengths ranging from 400 to 800 nm, and which are capable of re-emitting light in the visible region at a higher wavelength.
According to one embodiment, the fluorescent dyes useful for the present invention re-emit orange-colored fluorescent light. They exhibit, for instance, a maximum re-emission wavelength ranging from 500 to 700 nm.
Non-limiting examples of fluorescent dyes include compounds known in the art, for example, those described in UUmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, Release 2004, 7th edition, "Fluorescent Dyes" chapter.
The optical brighteners of the present disclosure, also known under the name of "brighteners", or "fluorescent brighteners", or "fluorescent brightening agents" or "FWA", or "fluorescent whitening agents", or "whiteners", or "fluorescent whiteners", are colorless transparent compounds as they do not absorb in visible light but only in ultraviolet light (wavelengths ranging from 200 to 400 nanometers) and convert the energy absorbed into fluorescent light of higher wavelength emitted in the visible part of the spectrum, generally in the blue and/or green, that is to say in wavelengths ranging from 400 to 550 nanometers. Optical brighteners are known in the art, for example, they are described in UUmann's
Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (2002), "Optical Brighteners" and Kirk-Othmer
Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology (1995): "Fluorescent Whitening Agents".
The fluorescent dyes which can be used in the composition of the present disclosure include compounds known from the art, for example, those described in French Patent No. 2 830 189.
Soluble fluorescent compounds that may especially be mentioned include those belonging to the following families: naphthalimides, coumarins, xanthenes and in particular
xanthenodiquinolizines and azaxanthenes; naphtholactams; azlactones; oxazines; thiazines; dioxazines; azo compounds; azomethines; methines; pyrazines; stilbenes; ketopyrroles; and pyrenes.
If present, the fluorescent dyes are preferred, more particularly, those re-emitting
orange-colored fluorescent light.
In terms of ionic nature, the (a) direct dye may be selected from the group consisting of acidic direct dyes, basic direct dyes and neutral direct dyes, which covers all possible types of direct dyes, such as so-called nitro dyes and HC dyes. Acidic direct dyes have an anionic moiety in their chemical structure. Basic direct dyes have a cationic moiety in their chemical structure. Neutral direct dyes are nonionic. According to an embodiment, it is preferable that the (a) direct dye be selected from acidic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes are commonly known as "acidic direct dyes" for their affinity with alkaline substances (see, for example, " Industrial Dyes, Chemistry, Properties, Application", Klaus Hunger Ed. Wiley- VCH Verlag GmbH & Co KGaA, Weinheim 2003). Anionic or acid dyes are known in the literature (see, for example, " Ullman s ' Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry", Azo Dyes, 2005 Wiley- VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim
10.1002/14356007.a03 245, point 3.2; ibid, Textile Auxiliaries, 2002 Wiley- VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim 10.1002/14356007.a26 227 and "Ashford's Dictionary of Industrial Chemicals", Second Edition, p. 14-p. 39, 2001). Anionic or acid dyes cause less skin irritations as compared to other direct dyes. The term "anionic direct dyes" means any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one sulfonate group S03 " and/or at least one carboxylate group C(0)0" and/or at least one phosphonate group Ρ(=0)ΟΌ" and optionally one or more anionic groups G" with G", which may be identical or different, representing an anionic group chosen from alkoxide O", thioalkoxide S", phosphonate, carboxylate and thiocarboxylate: C(Q)Q'" with Q and Q', which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom; preferably, G" represents a carboxylate, i.e. Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom.
The preferred anionic dyes of the formula of the invention are chosen from acidic nitro direct dyes, acidic azo dyes, acidic azine dyes, acidic triarylmethane dyes, acidic indoamine dyes, acidic anthraquinone dyes, anionic styryl dyes, and indigoids and acidic natural dyes; each of these dyes containing at least one sulfonate, phosphonate or carboxylate group bearing a cationic counterion X*, where X+ represents an organic or mineral cationic counter ion preferably chosen from alkali and alkaline-earth metals, such as Na+ and K+ Preferred acid dyes may be chosen from:
a) the diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (II) or (ΙΓ):
Figure imgf000010_0001
in which formulae (II) and (ΙΓ):
• R7, Rg, R9, Rio, R'7, R'8, R'9 and R'io, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
alkyl; > alkoxy, alkylthio;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
nitro;
R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X", which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
(0)2S(0")-5 X+ as defined previously;
(O)CO'-, X+ as defined previously ;
- (0)P(02 ~)-, 2X+ as defined previously ;
R"-S(0)2-, with R" representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, aryl, (di)(alkyl)amino or aryl(alkyl)amino group; preferably a phenylamino or phenyl group;
R"'-S(0)2-X'- with R'" representing an alkyl or optionally substituted aryl group, X' as defined previously;
(di)(alkyl)amino;
aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0")-, X+ and iv) alkoxy with X+;
optionally substituted heteroaryl; preferably a benzothiazolyl group;
- cycloalkyl; especially cyclohexyl,
Ar-N=N- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group, preferably a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl,
(0)2S(0~)-, X+ or phenylamino groups;
or alternatively two contiguous groups R7 with ¾ or ¾ with R9 or R9 with R10 together form a fused benzo group A'; and R' with R'g or R'g with R'9 or R'9 with R'10 together form a fused benzo group B'; with A' and B' optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0")-, X+; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X"-; x) Ar-N=N- and xi) optionally substituted aryl(alkyl)amino; with X+, R°, X, X', X" and Ar as defined previously;
• W represents a sigma bond σ, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical i) -NR- with R as defined previously, or ii) methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)- with Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or alternatively Ra and R form, together with the carbon atom that bears them, a spiro cycloalkyl; preferably W represents a sulfur atom or Ra and Rb together form a cyclohexyl;
it being understood that formulae (II) and (ΙΓ) comprise at least one sulfonate (0)2S(0")-, X+ or phosphonate (0)P(02 ") 2X+ or carboxylate (O)C(O")-, X+ radical on one of the rings A, A', B, B' or C with X+ as defined previously;
As examples of dyes of formula (II), mention may be made of Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Food Red 17, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid
Orange 24, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2, Pigment Red 57;
and as examples of dyes of formula (ΙΓ), mention may be made of Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38; b) the anthraquinone dyes of formulae (III) and (III'):
Figure imgf000012_0001
in which formulae (III) and (III'):
· R22, R23, R24, R25, R26 and R27, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
- aryloxy or arylthio optionally substituted, preferably substituted with one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0)2S(0")-, X+ with X+ as defined previously;
aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0)2S(0~)-, X+ with X+ as defined previously;
- (di)(alkyl)amino;
(di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;
(0)2S(0~)-, X+ with X+ as defined previously;
• Z' represents a hydrogen atom or a group NR2 R29 with R28 and R29, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: - alkyl;
polyhydroxyalkyl such as hydroxyethyl;
aryl optionally substituted with one or more groups, particularly i) alkyl such as methyl, «-dodecyl, rc-butyl; ii) (0)2S(0")-, X+ with X+ as defined previously; iii) R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"- with R°, X, X' and X" as defined previously, preferably R° represents an alkyl group;
cycloakyl; especially cyclohexyl;
• Z represents a group chosen from hydroxyl and NR'28R'29 with R'28 and R'29, which may be identical or different, representing the same atoms or groups as R28 and R29 as defined previously;
it being understood that formulae (III) and (III') comprise at least one sulfonate group (0)2S(0~)-, X+ with X+ as defined previously;
As examples of dyes of formula (III), mention may be made of Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT Violet 2, and as examples of dyes of formula (III'), mention may be made of Acid Black 48;
and
g) the quinoline-based dyes of formula (IV):
Figure imgf000013_0001
in which formula (IV):
· represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl group;
• ¾2, ¾3 and R64, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (0)2S(0")-, X+ with X+ as defined previously;
• or alternatively ¾ι with ¾2, or ¾ι with ¾4, together form a benzo group optionally substituted with one or more groups (0)2S(0~)-, X+ with X+ as defined previously; · G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRe with ¾ representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;
it being understood that formula (IV) comprises at least one sulfonate group (0)2S(0~)-, X+ with X+ as defined previously;
As examples of dyes of formula (IV), mention may be made of Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.
It is preferable that the acidic direct dye be selected from the group consisting of Acid Orange 7, Acid Violet 43 and Acid Black 1. The amount of the (a) direct dye(s) may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 2% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention, with the proviso that the amount of the (a) direct dye(s) is not zero. The amount of the (a) direct dye (s) may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more, and more preferably from 0.05% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the present invention may contain the (a) direct dye(s) in an amount of from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 3% by weight, and more preferably 0.05 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Fatty Material]
The composition according to the present invention includes (b) at least one fatty material. Two or more fatty materials may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty material or a combination of different types of fatty material may be used.
The term "fatty material" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably 1% and even more preferentially 0.1%). The fatty material may contain, in its structure, a sequence of at least two siloxane groups or at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the fatty substances may be soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
In the scope of the present invention, it has to be noted that the fatty material does not comprise any C2-C3 oxyalkylene units or any glycerolated units.
The (b) fatty material may be in the form of a liquid or a solid. Here, "liquid" and "solid" mean that the fatty material is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) or solid, respectively, at ambient temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 rnmHg or 105 Pa). It is preferable that the fatty material comprises at least one fatty material in the form of a paste or a solid, preferably in the form of a solid, at ambient temperature and under atmospheric pressure. As examples of fatty materials in the form of a solid, mention may be made of, for example, fatty alcohols. It is more preferably that the fatty material comprises at least one fatty material in the form of a paste or a solid, preferably in the form of a solid, and at least one fatty material in the form of a liquid, at ambient temperature and under atmospheric pressure.
The (b) fatty material may be selected from the group consisting of oils of animal or plant origin, mineral oils, synthetic glycerides, esters of fatty alcohols and/or fatty acids other than animal or plant oils and synthetic glycerides, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, silicone oils and aliphatic hydrocarbons. These fatty materials may be volatile or non-volatile. Preferably, the fatty material is selected from the group consisting of oils of animal or plant origin, synthetic glycerides, fatty esters other than animal or plant oils and synthetic glycerides, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, silicone oils, and aliphatic hydrocarbons. More preferably, the (b) fatty material is selected from fatty alcohols, aliphatic hydrocarbons, preferably mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of aliphatic hydrocarbons, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
As examples of other aliphatic hydrocarbons, mention may also be made of linear or branched, or possibly cyclic C6-C16 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
As example of synthetic glycerides, mention may be made of, for instance, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company, Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company, Dynamit Nobel.
As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear
organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes,
methylhydrogonpolysiloxanes, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, arara oil, hazelnut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof. As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene,
perhydrosqualene and squalane. As examples of the esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol, which are advantageously different from the animal or plant oils as well as the synthetic glycerides mentioned above, mention may be made especially of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched CrC26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C!-C26 aliphaticrmono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.
Still within the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of CrC22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
The following may especially be mentioned: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate;
diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate;
pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl
tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.
Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferable to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.
The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. The term "sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fructose, maltose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose. The sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters according to this variant may also be selected from mono-, di-, tri-, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be selected, for example, from oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate mixed esters. It is more particularly preferable to use monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO, which is a methylglucose dioleate, by the company Amerchol.
Examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid that may also be mentioned include:
the products sold under the names F 160, F 140, F 110, F90, F70 and SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmitostearates formed from 73% monoester and 27% diester and triester, from 61% monoester and 39% diester, triester and tetraester, from 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester and tetraester, from 45% monoester and 55% diester, triester and tetraester, from 39% monoester and 61% diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;
- the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di- triester-polyester;
the sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE.
The fatty material may be at least one fatty acid, and two or more fatty acids may be used. The fatty acids should be in acidic form (i.e., unsalified, to avoid soaps) and may be saturated or unsaturated and contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. They are more particularly selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid. Preferably the fatty material is not a fatty acid. The fatty material may be at least one fatty alcohol, and two or more fatty alcohols may be used.
The term "fatty alcohol" here means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty alcohol, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
Among the C8-C30 fatty alcohols, C12-C22 fatty alcohols, for example, are used. Mention may be made among these of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as myristyl alcohol, can be used as a solid fatty material. In another embodiment, isostearyl alcohol can be used as a liquid fatty material.
The fatty material may be a wax. Here, "wax" means that the fatty material is substantially in the form of a solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and has a melting point generally of 35°C or more. As the waxy fatty material, waxes generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combinations thereof.
For example, the wax may be selected from camauba wax, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerites, hydrogenated jojoba oil, polyethylene waxes such as the wax sold under the name
"Performalene 400 Polyethylene" by the company New Phase Technologies, silicone waxes, for instance poly(C24-C28)alkylmethyldimethylsiloxane, such as the product sold under the name "Abil Wax 9810" by the company Goldschmidt, palm butter, the C2o-C4o alkyl stearate sold under the name "Kester Wax K82H" by the company Kester Keunen, stearyl benzoate, shellac wax, and mixtures thereof. For example, a wax selected from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ozokerites, hydrogenated jojoba oil and polyethylene waxes can be used. In at least one embodiment, the wax is preferably selected from candelilla wax and ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.
As the (b) fatty material, cetearyl alcohol, mineral oil, or a mixture thereof, is in particular preferable. The amount of the (b) fatty material(s) may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention, with the proviso that the amount of the (b) fatty material(s) is not zero. The amount of the (b) fatty material(s) may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably from 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (b) fatty material(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Surfactant]
The composition according to the present invention includes (c) at least one surfactant. Two or more surfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactant may be used.
The surfactant used in the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants and nonionic surfactants, preferably from nonionic surfactants. The amount of the (c) surfactant(s) may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention, with the proviso that the amount of the (c) surfactant(s) is not zero. The amount of the (c) surfactant (s) may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably from 1.0% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (c) surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(c-1) Anionic Surfactants
The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one anionic surfactant. Two or more anionic surfactants may be used in combination.
It is preferable that the anionic surfactant be selected from the group consisting of
(C6-C3o)alkyl sulfates, (C6-C30)alkyl ether sulfates, (C6-C30)alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; (C -C30)alkylsulfonates,
(C6-C3o)alkylamide sulfonates, (C6-C30)alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; (C6-C30)alkyl phosphates; (C6-C3o)alkyl sulfosuccinates, (C6-C3o)alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, (C6-C3o)alkylamide sulfosuccinates; (C6-C3o)alkyl sulfoacetates; (C6-C24)acyl sarcosinates; (C6-C24)acyl glutamates; (C6-C3o)alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic ethers;
(C6-C3o)alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates; (C6-C3o)alkyl sulfosuccinamates; (C6-C24)acyl isethionates; N-(C6-C24)acyl taurates; C6-C30 fatty acid salts; coconut oil acid salts or hydrogenated coconut oil acid salts; (C8-C2o)acyl lactylates; (C6-C30)alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acid salts; polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C30)alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts;
polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C30)alkylaryl ether carboxylic acid salts; and polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C30)alkylamido ether carboxylic acid salts; and corresponding acid forms.
In at least one embodiment, the anionic surfactants are in the form of salts such as salts of alkali metals, for instance sodium; salts of alkaline-earth metals, for instance magnesium; ammonium salts; amine salts; and amino alcohol salts. Depending on the conditions, they may also be in acid form.
It is more preferable that the anionic surfactant be selected from salts of (C6-C30)alkyl sulfate, (C6-C30)alkyl ether sulfates or polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C3o)alkyl ether carboxylic acid salified or not. (c-2) Amphoteric Surfactants
The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant. Two or more amphoteric surfactants may be used in combination. The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be, for example (non-limiting list), amine derivatives such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain including 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example, carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate). The amphoteric surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaines and amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives.
It is preferable that the amphoteric surfactant be selected from betaine-type surfactants.
The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, and
alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, in particular, (C8-C24)alkylbetaines,
(C8-C24)alkylamido(CrCg)alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, and
(C8-C24)alkylamido(C1-C8)alkylsulphobetaines. In one embodiment, the amphoteric surfactants of betaine type are chosen from (C8-C24)alkylbetaines,
(C8-C24)alkylamido(C1-C8)alkylsulphobetaines, sulphobetaines, and phosphobetaines.
Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include the compounds classified in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook, 15th Edition, 2014, under the names cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco/oleamidopropylbetaine,
cocamidopropylbetaine, palmitamidopropylbetaine, stearamidopropylbetaine,
cocamidoethylbetaine, cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine, oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine, cocohydroxysultaine, laurylhydroxysultaine, and cocosultaine, alone or as mixtures.
The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably an alkylbetaine and an
alkylamidoalkylbetaine, in particular cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.
Among the amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781 ,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 (the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference), under the names Amphocarboxyglycinates and
Amphocarboxypropionates, with the respective structures: Ri-CONHCH2CH2-N+(R )(R3)(CH2COO") M+ X" (B 1 ) in which:
Ri denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Ri-COOH present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical,
R2 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group,
R3 denotes a carboxymethyl group,
M+ denotes a cationic ion derived from alkaline metals such as sodium; ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine;
X" denotes an organic or inorganic anionic ion such as halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(CrC4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(C1-C4)aryl-sulfonates, particularly methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or M+ and X" are not present;
Ri'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(C) (B2) in which:
Rj' denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Ri'-COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, such as a C7, C9, Cn or C13 alkyl radical, a C17 alkyl radical and its iso-form, or an unsaturated Cn radical,
B represents -CH2CH2OX',
C represents -(CH2)Z-Y', with z=l or 2, X' denotes a -CH2-COOH group, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ' or a hydrogen atom, and
Y' denotes -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2-CHOH-S03Z', -CH2-CHOH-S03H radical or a
-CH2-CH(OH)-S03-Z' radical,
wherein Z' represents an ion of an alkaline or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ion derived from an organic amine or an ammonium ion;
and
Ra"-NH-CH(Y")-(CH2)„-C(0)- H-(CH2)„-N(Rd)(Re) (B'2) in which:
Y" denotes -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ", -CH2-CH(OH)-S03H or -CH2-CH(OH)-S03-Z", wherein Z" denotes a cationic ion derived from alkaline metal or alkaline-earth metals such as sodium, an ion derived from organic amine or an ammonium ion;
Rd and Re denote a Q-C4 alkyl or Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical;
Ra" denotes a C10-C3o group alkyl or alkenyl group from an acid, and
n and n' independently denote an integer from 1 to 3.
It is preferable that the amphoteric surfactant with formula Bl and B2 be selected from
(C8-C24)-alkyl amphomonoacetates, (C8-C24)alkyl amphodiacetates, (C -C24)alkyl
amphomonopropionates, and (C8-C24)alkyl amphodipropionates
These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium
Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphopropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium
Caprylamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid and Cocoamphodipropionic acid.
By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol® C2M concentrate by the company Rhodia Chimie.
Among compounds of formula (B'2) mention may be made of sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide (CTFA) marketed by CHIMEX under the denomination CHIMEXANE HB. (c-3) Cationic Surfactants
The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cationic surfactant. Two or more cationic surfactants may be used in combination. The cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of optionally
polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to:
those of general formula (B3) below:
Figure imgf000021_0001
wherein
Ri, R2, R3, and R4, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic radicals including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally including heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic radicals may be chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, C2-C6 polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide,
(Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkylacetate and hydroxyalkyl radicals; and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl; and X" is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C2-C6) alkyl sulfates and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates;
quaternar ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (B4) below:
Figure imgf000021_0002
(B4)
wherein:
R5 is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow or of coconut;
R6 is chosen from hydrogen, Q-Q alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
R7 is chosen from Ci-C4 alkyl radicals;
R8 is chosen from hydrogen and C 1-C4 alkyl radicals; and
X" is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates. In one embodiment, R5 and R<s are, for example, a mixture of radicals chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R7 is methyl and R8 is hydrogen. Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names "Rewoquat®" W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by the company Witco;
Di or tri quaternary ammonium salts of formula (B5):
Figure imgf000021_0003
wherein:
R9 is chosen from aliphatic radicals including from 16 to 30 carbon atoms;
R10 is chosen from hydrogen or alkyl radicals including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group
-(CH2)3 (R16a)(R17a)(Ri8a)N+X--;
Rn, R12, Ri3, R14, R16a, Ri7a, and R18a, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl radicals including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and X" is chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates, and methyl sulfates.
An example of one such diquaternary ammonium salt is FINQUAT CT-P of FINETEX
(Quaternium-89) or FINQUAT CT (Quaternium-75);
and
quaternary ammonium salts including at least one ester function, such as those of formula (B6) below:
Figure imgf000022_0001
wherein:
R22 is chosen from C!-C6 alkyl radicals and C C6 hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl radicals; R23 is chosen from:
the radical below:
O
I I
x26 ^
linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated CrC22 hydrocarbon-based radicals R2 , and hydrogen,
R25 is chosen from:
the radical below:
Figure imgf000022_0002
linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated CpC6 hydrocarbon-based radicals R29, and hydrogen,
R24, R26, and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C7-C21, hydrocarbon-based radicals;
r, s, and t, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 6; each of rl and tl, which may be identical or different, is 0 or 1, and r2+rl=2r and tl+2t=2t; y is chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 10;
x and z, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10; X" is chosen from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions; with the proviso that the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0, R25 denotes R29. R22 may be chosen from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R22 is chosen from linear alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R22 is chosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, and dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example methyl and ethyl radicals. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 10. When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R27, it may be long and include from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and include from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R29, it may include, for example, from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. By way of a non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R24, R26, and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, Cn-C2i hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated Cn-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals. In another embodiment, x and z, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to 1. In another embodiment, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2. The anion X" may be chosen from, for example, halides, such as chloride, bromide, and iodide; and Q-C4 alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate and lactate, and any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium including an ester function, are other non-limiting examples of anions that may be used according to the present invention. In one embodiment, the anion X" is chosen from chloride and methyl sulfate.
In another embodiment, the ammonium salts of formula (B6) may be used, wherein:
R22 is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals,
x and y are equal to 1 ;
z is equal to 0 or 1 ;
r, s and t are equal to 2;
R23 is chosen from:
the radical below:
Figure imgf000023_0001
methyl, ethyl, and Ci4-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals, hydrogen;
R25 is chosen from:
the radical below:
O
II and hydrogen;
R24, R26, and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C13-Ci7 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.
Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (B6) that may be mentioned include salts, for example chloride and methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of
monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl-ammonium, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl radicals may include from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and may be derived, for example, from a plant oil, for instance palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound includes several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
These products may be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally
oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or
alkyldiisopropanolamine onto fatty acids or onto mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification may be followed by a quatemization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Cognis, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca, and "Rewoquat® WE 18" by the company Rewo-Goldschmidt. Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that may be used in the composition according to the present invention include the ammonium salts including at least one ester function described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180.
The quaternary ammonium salts mentioned above that may be used in the composition according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, those corresponding to formula (I), for example tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance
dialkyldimethylammonium and alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical includes from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium,
distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and
stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name
"Ceraphyl® 70" by the company Van Dyk.
According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactant that may be used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87, Quaternium-22, behenylamidopropyl-2,3 -dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride,
palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine. (c-4) Nonionic Surfactants
The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant. Two or more nonionic surfactants may be used in combination. The nonionic surfactants are compounds well known in and of themselves (see, e.g., in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178). Thus, they can, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range from 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerol groups to range from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. Non-limiting mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of plant origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; polyethoxylated fatty acid mono or diesters of glycerol (C6-C24)alkylpolyglycosides; N-(C6-C24)alkylglucamine derivatives; amine oxides such as (C10-C14)alkylamine oxides or
N-(C1o-C14)acylaminopropylmo holine oxides; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.
The nonionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated,
polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene units.
Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include:
monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols,
saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C8-C3o alcohols,
saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C8-C3o amides,
esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C3o acids and of polyalkylene glycols,
monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of sorbitol,
saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated plant oils,
condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide, inter alia, alone or as mixtures.
The surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100 and most preferably between 2 and 50. According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (polyethylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol) and polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (polyethylene glycol ester of fatty acid).
Examples of polyoxyethylenated saturated fatty alcohol (or C8-C30 alcohols) that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 10 to 12 oxyethylene units (Laureth-10 to Laureth-12, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene units (Beheneth-9 to Beheneth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (Ceteareth-10 to Ceteareth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (Ceteth-10 to Ceteth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with stearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (Steareth-10 to
Steareth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (Isosteareth-10 to Isosteareth-50, as the CTFA names); and mixtures thereof.
Examples of polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohol (or Cg-C30 alcohols) that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 10 to 40 oxyethylene units (Oleth-10 to Oleth-40, as the CTFA names); and mixture thereof.
As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants,
monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated Cs-Qo alcohols are preferably used.
In particular, the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C4o alcohols correspond to the following formula:
RO-[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-0]m-H or RO-[CH(CH2OH)-CH20]m-H in which R represents a linear or branched C -C40 and preferably C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1.5 to 10.
As examples of compounds that are suitable in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4
Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
The alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohol may coexist in the form of a mixture.
Among the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, it is preferable to use the C8/C10 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the Q0/Q2 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol. The monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 fatty esters may correspond to the following formula:
R'0-[CH2-CH(CH2OR'")-0]m-R" or R'0-[CH(CH2OR'")-CH20]m-R" in which each of R', R" and R'" independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C8-C40 and preferably C8-C30 alkyl-CO- or alkenyl-CO-radical, with the proviso that at least one of R', R" and R'" is not a hydrogen atom, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1.5 to 10. Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty esters that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG- 100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.
According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from esters of polyols with fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, such as glyceryl esters of a C8-C24, preferably Ci2-C22, fatty acid or acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sorbitol esters of a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid or acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sugar (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose, and/or alkylglycose) esters of a C8-C24, preferably Ci2-C22, fatty acid or acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; ethers of fatty alcohols; ethers of sugar and a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty alcohol or alcohols; and mixtures thereof.
As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof can be cited, and as polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether of glycerol), preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and/or tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and/or tristearate) can be cited.
Mixtures of these surfactants, such as for example the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG- 100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE), can also be used.
The sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof can be selected from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate and esters of fatty acids and alkoxylated sorbitan containing for example from 20 to 100 EO, such as for example sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 40, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name:
polysorbate 65), sold by the company ICI under the name Tween 65, polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85) or the compounds marketed under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema.
As esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, methylglucoside fatty esters, the diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate), the mixed ester of methylglucoside and the mixture of oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxystearate), the ester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose isostearate), the ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose laurate), the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesqui-isostearate), the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucate SS by AMERCHOL, and mixtures thereof can be cited. As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by AMERCHOL, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methyl-glucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by AMERCHOL and that marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by GOLDSCHMIDT, and mixtures thereof, can for example be cited. As sucrose esters, saccharose palmito-stearate, saccharose stearate and saccharose monolaurate can for example be cited.
As sugar ethers, alkylpolyglucosides can be used, and for example decylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product marketed under the name PLANTAREN 2000 by Henkel, and the product marketed under the name
ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic, caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by Seppic or under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF, laurylglucoside such as the products marketed under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by Henkel, coco-glucoside such as the product marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818/UP by Henkel, cetostearyl glucoside possibly mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel, arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic, cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture (35/65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, marketed under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic, and mixtures thereof can in particular be cited.
Mixtures of glycerides of alkoxylated plant oils such as mixtures of ethoxylated (200 EO) palm and copra (7 EO) glycerides can also be cited.
The nonionic surfactant according to the present invention preferably contains alkenyl or a branched C12-C22 acyl chain such as an oleyl or isostearyl group. More preferably, the nonionic surfactant according to the present invention is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.
According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, in particular copolymers of the following formula: HO(C2H40)a(C3H60)b(C2H40)cH in which a, b and c are integers such that a+c ranges from 2 to 100 and b ranges from 14 to 60, and mixtures thereof. According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from silicone surfactants. Non-limiting mention may be made of those disclosed in documents US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744.
The silicone surfactant ma preferably be a compound of formula (I):
Figure imgf000028_0001
in which:
R\, R2 and R3, independently of each other, represent a Ci-C6 alkyl radical or a radical
-(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH2CH2)2-OR4, at least one radical R1; R2 or R3 not being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical;
A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200; B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the proviso that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero;
x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;
z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl radical is a methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), mention may be made of the compounds of formula (II):
(CH3)3SiO - [(CH3)2SiO]A - (CH3SiO)B - Si(CH3)3
i (ID
(CH2)r{OCH2CH2)y-OH
in which A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10 and y is . an integer ranging from 10 to 20.
As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), mention may also be made of the compounds of formula (III): H-(OCH2CH2)y-(CH2)3-[(CH3)2SiO]A'-(CH2)3-(OCH2CH2)y-OH (III) in which A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.
Compounds of the present invention which may be used are those sold by the company Dow Corning under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667. The
compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (II) in which, respectively, A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12. The compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) in which A is 15 and y is 13. [Alcohol (other than fatty material)]
The composition according to the present invention includes (d) at least one monovalent alcohol other than the (b) fatty material, in particular the fatty alcohol. Two or more such alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of such alcohol or a combination of different types of such alcohol may be used.
The (d) monovalent alcohol is preferably in the form of a liquid at ambient temperature such as 25°C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105Pa).
The term "monovalent alcohol" here means an alcohol having one hydroxy group.
The (d) monovalent alcohol may be non-aromatic (aliphatic) or aromatic.
The non-aromatic monovalent alcohol is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched lower aliphatic monovalent alcohol, more preferably C2-C6 aliphatic monovalent alcohol, even more preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C2-C5 aliphatic monovalent alcohol, most preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C2-C4 aliphatic monovalent alcohol. Preferred non-aromatic monovalent alcohols are ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof.
The aromatic monovalent alcohol is preferably selected from the group consisting of benzyl alcohol, phenethylalcohol, diphenyl ethanol, cinnamyl alcohol, tryptophol,
3-nitrobenzylalcohol, veratryl alcohol, benzoin and mixtures thereof.
It is preferable that the (d) monovalent alcohol other than the (b) fatty material be selected from the group consisting of lower aliphatic alcohols, aromatic alcohols and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from the group consisting of ethanol, benzyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
The amount of the (d) monovalent alcohol(s) other than the (b) fatty material may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention, with the proviso that the amount of the (d) monovalent alcohol(s) is not zero. The amount of the (d) monovalent alcohol(s) other than the (b) fatty material may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably from 1.0% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (d) monovalent alcohol(s) other than the (b) fatty material in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
If the (d) monovalent alcohol(s) other than the (b) fatty material is benzyl alcohol, the amount of the benzyl alcohol may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention, with the proviso that the amount of the benzyl alcohol is not zero. On the other hand, if the (d) monovalent alcohol(s) other than the (b) fatty material is benzyl alcohol, the amount of the benzyl alcohol may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably from 1.0% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Thus, if the (d) monovalent alcohol(s) other than the (b) fatty material is benzyl alcohol, the amount of the benzyl alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Diester Compound] The composition according to the present invention includes (e) at least one specific diester compound. Two or more diester compounds may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of diester compound or a combination of different types of diester compound may be used. The (e) diester compound can be represented by the following general formula (A) R1-(OCH2CH2)m -OOC-R-COO-(CH2CH20)n -R2 (A) wherein
R1 and R2, independently, denote a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, monovalent Q to C12 hydrocarbon group,
R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, divalent Q to C12
hydrocarbon group, and
m and n, independently, denote an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 1 to 15, and more preferably from 2 to 11.
It is preferable that R1 and R2, independently, be a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic, monovalent Q to C12 hydrocarbon group, more preferably a linear, branched or cyclic d to C12 alkyl group, such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, an iso-propyl group, an n-butyl group, an iso-butyl group, an n-pentyl group, an n-hexyl group, a cyclohexyl group, an n-octyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, an n-decyl group and n-dodecyl group, even more preferably a methyl group and an ethyl group, and in particular an ethyl group.
It is preferable that R be a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic, divalent C to C12 hydrocarbon group, more preferably a linear, branched or cyclic C\ to C12 alkylene group, such as a methylene group, an ethylene group, a propylene group, an iso-propylene group, an
n-butylene group, an iso-butylene group, an n-pentylene group, an n-hexylene group, a cyclohexylene group, an n-octylene group, a 2-ethylhexylene group, an n-decylene group and n-dodecylene group, even more preferably a cyclohexylene group, and in particular a
1 ,4-cyclohexylene group.
It is even more preferable that m and n, independently, be 2 or 3.
As examples of the (e) diester compound, mention may be made of,
bis(diethyleneglycolmonoethylether) 1 ,4-cyclohexane dicarboxylate,
bis(triethyleneglycolmonoethylether) 1,4-cyclohexane dicarboxylate,
bis(diethyleneglycolmonoethylether) adipate, bis(triethyleneglycolmonoethylether) adipate, and Dicarbitol succinate. Bis(diethyleneglycolmonoethylether) 1,4-cyclohexane
dicarboxylate (INCI name: Bis-ethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1,4-dicarboxylate) and dicarbitol succinate (INCI name: Bis-ethoxydiglycol succinate) are more preferable.
Bis(diethyleneglycolmonoethylether) 1 ,4-cyclohexane dicarboxylate is available from the market under the name of Neosolue-Aqulio from Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.
Dicarbitol succinate (INCI name: Bis-ethoxydiglycol succinate) is available from the market under the name of HAIAQUEOUSTER DCS from Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Ltd.
The (e) diester compound may be a diester of dicarboxylic acid and polyoxyethylene monoalkyl ether.
The (e) diester compound may be a diester of
a dicarboxylic acid represented by the following formula (A-l):
HOOC-R-COOH (A-l) wherein
R is as defined above, and polyoxyethylene monoalkyl ethers represented by the general following formulae (A-2) and (A-3):
R1-(OCH2CH2)1n -OH (A-2) and HO-(CH2CH20)n -R2 (A-3) wherein
R 1 and R 2 , and m and n are defined as above.
As examples of the dicarboxylic acid represented by the formula (A-1), mention may be made of:
Saturated linear dicarboxylic acids such as succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, and 1,10-dodecanedicarboxylic acid;
Saturated branched dicarboxylic acids such as 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid, and
2,4,4-trimethyladipic acid; and
Saturated or unsaturated cyclic dicarboxylic acids such as 1,2-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid,
1.3- cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1 ,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, and terephthalic acid. Saturated linear dicarboxylic acids such as succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, and
1 , 10-dodecanedicarboxylic acid, and saturated or unsaturated cyclic dicarboxylic acids such as 1,2-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid,
1.4- cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, and terephthalic acid are preferable. Succinic acid, adipic acid, 1 ,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid are more preferable, and 1 ,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid is even more preferable. The dicarboxylic acid represented by the formula (A-1) may be in the form of acid anhydride.
As examples of the polyoxyethylene monoalkyl ethers represented by the general following formulae (A-2) and (A-3), mention may be made of:
Diethyleneglycolmonoethylether, and
Triethyleneglycolmonoethylether. Diethyleneglycolmonoethylether is preferable.
The (e) diester compound can be prepared by reacting the dicarboxylic acid represented by the following formula (A-1) and the polyoxyethylene monoalkyl ethers represented by the general following formulae (A-2) and (A-3).
The process of the above reaction is not limited, and can be performed in accordance with known esterification methods. For example, the dicarboxylic acid represented by the following formula (A-1) and the polyoxyethylene monoalkyl ethers represented by the general following formulae (A-2) and (A-3) can be reacted with or without a solvent at a temperature of, for example, from 100 to 300°C, preferably from 150 to 260°C. The molar ratio of the dicarboxylic acid represented by the following formula (A-l)/the polyoxyethylene monoalkyl ethers represented by the general following formulae (A-2) and (A-3) may vary depending on the reaction conditions, but can be from 0.1 to 1, preferably from 0.2 to 0.8, more preferably from 0. 3 to 0.6, and even more preferably about 0.5. As the solvent, organic solvents such as toluene and heptane may be used. A catalyst may be used for promoting the esterification reaction. As the catalyst, acid catalysts such as
paratoluenesulfonic acid, sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, methanesulfonic acid may be used. If necessary, the (e) diester compound obtained by the above esterification reaction may be purified in accordance with known purification methods. It is preferable that the (e) diester compound have a purity of 90% by weight or more, more preferable 95% by weight or more, and even more preferably 99% by weight or more.
The amount of the (e) diester compound(s) may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention, with the proviso that the amount of the (e) diester compound(s) is not zero. The amount of the (e) diester compound(s) may be 0.01%» by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably from 0.1 % by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the (e) diester compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01%) to 15%> by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10%> by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition. [Water]
The composition according to the present invention comprises (f) water.
The amount of (f) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 40% to 90% by weight, preferably from 45% to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 50 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Polyol]
The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (g) at least one polyol. Two or more polyols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of polyol or a combination of different types of polyol may be used.
The term "polyol" here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not encompass a saccharide or a derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has or have been replaced with at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.
It is preferable that the (g) polyol(s) used in the present invention be liquid at ambient temperature such as 25°C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105 Pa).
The (g) polyol may be a C2-C24 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.
The (g) polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The (g) polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure. The (g) polyol may be selected from glycerins and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol,
dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, C6-C24
polyethyleneglycol, 1,3 -propanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, and 1,5-pentanediol. The amount of the (g) polyol(s) may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the
composition according to the present invention, with the proviso that the amount of the (g) polyol(s) is not zero. The amount of the (g) polyol(s) may be 0.1 % by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably from 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (g) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Other Ingredients]
The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be adjusted to the desired value using acidifying or basifying agents commonly used in dyeing keratinous fibers or else using conventional buffer systems.
The composition according to the present invention is preferably acidic. Therefore, it is preferable that the pH of the composition be from 1 to 6, more preferably from 2 to 5, and even more preferably from 2 to 4.
Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, ortho-phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
Among the basifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and also their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxide and compounds of the formula below:
Figure imgf000034_0001
wherein
W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Ra, ¾, Rc and independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, which may be exemplified by 1 ,3-propanediamine and
derivatives thereof. Sodium or potassium hydroxide is preferable, because this can also function to form in situ the (c) buffering agent.
The acidifying or basifying agent may be used in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10%) by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The compositions according to the present invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing hair, such as anionic, non-ionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof, antioxidants, thickening agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, film-forming agents, ceramides, preservatives and opacifying agents. The form of the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, as long as it is water-based, and may take various forms such as an emulsion (O/W or W/O form), an aqueous gel, an aqueous solution, or the like. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of an O/W emulsion.
The composition according to the present invention is a composition for dyeing keratin fibers, and is preferably a cosmetic composition for dyeing keratin fibers. The "keratin fibers" here mean fibers which include at least one keratin substance. It is preferable that at least a part of the surface of the keratin fibers be formed by keratin fibers. Examples of keratin fibers include hair, eyebrows, eyelashes, and the like. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be used for dyeing hair.
[Preparation] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the ingredients (a) to (f), as essential ingredients, as well as optional ingredient(s), as explained above.
The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
The composition according to the present invention is preferably a so-called one-part composition or a ready-to-use composition. For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "ready-to-use composition" is defined herein as a composition to be applied immediately to keratin fibers such as hair.
As compared to a so-called two-part composition, a so-called one-part composition does not need to mix ingredients in the composition prior to use. Therefore, it is easy for a consumer to use the composition according to the present invention for dyeing keratin fibers.
Furthermore, stable coloring of keratin fibers is possible for the composition according to the present invention, because it is not possible to fail to mix ingredients in a precise mixing ratio which is required for two-part compositions for dyeing keratin fibers.
[Process]
The present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers.
The step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers can be performed by a conventional applicator such as a brush, or even by the hands.
The keratin fibers to which the composition according to the present invention has been applied can be left for an appropriate time which is required to treat the keratin fibers. The time length for the treatment is not limited, but it may be from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably 1 minute to 30 minutes, and more preferably 1 minute to 15 minutes. For example, the time for dyeing the keratin fibers may be from 1 to 20 minutes, preferably 5 to 15 minutes.
The keratin fibers may be treated at room temperature. Alternatively, the keratin fibers can be heated at 25°C to 65°C, preferably 30°C to 60°C, more preferably 35 °C to 55°C, and even more preferably 40°C to 50°C, during the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers, and/or the step of leaving the keratin fibers to which the composition according to the present invention has been applied.
The keratin fibers may be rinsed after the step of applying the composition according to the keratin fibers onto the keratin fibers and/or after the step of leaving the keratin fibers to which the composition according to the present invention has been applied.
The present invention may also relate to the use of the composition according to the present invention for dyeing keratin fibers such as hair.
EXAMPLES
The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples.
However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-5
[Preparation]
Each of the cosmetic compositions for dyeing hair according to Examples 1-4 (Ex. 1 to Ex. 4) and Comparative Examples 1-5 (Comp. Ex. 1 to Comp. Ex. 5) was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 at room temperature. The pH of the composition was adjusted to pH 2.7. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.
[Hair Color Intensity]
Each (4g) of the compositions according to Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-5 was evenly applied onto 1 g of a tress of 100% white natural human hair. The tress was then left for 10 minutes at 40°C, followed by washing with water, shampooing, rinsing once and drying the tress. The difference in color of the tress before and after the above dyeing process was measured by using Konica Minolta Spectrophotometer CM-3600d. ΔΕ
(between the color of the undyed original tress and the color of the dyed tress based on CIE1976) was calculated. The larger ΔΕ is, the better the dyeing is. The measured ΔΕ was evaluated in accordance with the evaluation criteria shown below.
Good: ΔΕ* is more than 36.
Fair: ΔΕ is from 33 to 36, inclusive.
Poor: ΔΕ is less than 33.
The results are shown in Table 1.
[Stain Intensity]
Each (0.1 ml) of the compositions according to Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-5 was applied onto the surface of an artificial skin such that the applied area formed a circle with a diameter of 1 cm. The applied surface was left for 10 minutes at 40°C, followed by thoroughly washing out the composition with water, and drying the surface. The difference in color of the surface before and after the above application process was measured by using Konica Minolta Spectrophotometer CM-3600d. ΔΕ* (between the color of the surface before the application and the color of the surface after the application based on CIE1976) was calculated. The smaller ΔΕ is, the weaker the stain is. The measured ΔΕ was evaluated in accordance with the evaluation criteria shown below.
Good: ΔΕ* is less than 5.
Fair: ΔΕ * is from 5 to 10, inclusive.
Poor: ΔΕ is more than 10.
The results are shown in Table 1.
Table 1
Figure imgf000038_0001
It can be recognized from the comparisons of Examples 1-4 and Comparative Example 1, shown in Table 1, that, when a cosmetic composition for dyeing hair containing a direct dye further contains a diester of dicarboxylic acid and polyoxyethylene monoalkyl ether, the cosmetic composition can prevent or reduce skin staining by the direct dye on the skin such as the scalp, while maintaining excellent cosmetic effects such as good or acceptable coloring properties.
It can be recognized from the comparison of Examples 1-4 and Comparative Example 2 shown in Table 1, that, when a cosmetic composition for dyeing hair containing a direct dye further contains alcohol (except for fatty alcohol), preferably liquid alcohol, the cosmetic composition can prevent or reduce skin staining by the direct dye on the skin such as the scalp, while maintaining excellent cosmetic effects such as good or acceptable coloring properties.
It can be recognized from the comparison of Examples 1-4 and Comparative Example 3, which is not of the emulsion type due to the absence of fatty material, shown in Table 1 , that, when a cosmetic composition for dyeing hair containing a direct dye further contains fatty materials, the cosmetic composition can prevent or reduce skin staining by the direct dye on the skin such as the scalp, while maintaining excellent cosmetic effects such as good or acceptable coloring properties.
It can be recognized from the comparison of Examples 1-4 and Comparative Example 4, which is not of the emulsion type due to the absence of fatty material and surfactants, shown in Table 1 , that, when a cosmetic composition for dyeing hair containing a direct dye further contains fatty materials and surfactants, the cosmetic composition can prevent or reduce skin staining by the direct dye on the skin such as the scalp, while maintaining excellent cosmetic effects such as good or acceptable coloring properties.
It can be recognized from the comparison of Examples 1-4 and Comparative Example 5, which is not of the emulsion type due to the absence of surfactants, shown in Table 1 , that, when a cosmetic composition for dyeing hair containing a direct dye further contains surfactants, the cosmetic composition can prevent or reduce skin staining by the direct dye on the skin such as the scalp, while maintaining excellent cosmetic effects such as good or acceptable coloring properties. As a result of comparison between Example 1 and Example 3, it is clear that it is preferable for a cosmetic composition for dyeing hair according to the present invention to include polyol in order to further reduce skin staining.
As a result of comparison between Example 1 and Example 4, it is clear that it is preferable for a cosmetic composition for dyeing hair according to the present invention to use
hydrocarbon-based oil as a fatty material in order to further reduce skin staining.

Claims

A composition, preferably in the form of an O/W emulsion, for dyeing keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising:
(a) at least one direct dye;
(b) at least one fatty material;
(c) at least one surfactant;
(d) at least one monovalent alcohol other than the (b) fatty material;
(e) at least one diester compound represented by the following general formula (A)
R1-(OCH2CH2)I„ -OOC-R-COO-(CH2CH20)n -R2 (A) wherein
1
R and R , independently, denote a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, monovalent C\ to C12 hydrocarbon group,
R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, divalent C to Ci2 hydrocarbon group, and
m and n, independently, denote an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 1 to 15, and more preferably from 2 to 11 ; and
(f) water.
The composition according to Claim 1 , wherein the (a) direct dye is selected from the group consisting of acidic direct dyes, basic direct dyes and neutral direct dyes preferably from acidic direct dyes.
The composition according to Claim 1, wherein the (a) direct dye is selected from the group consisting of:
the diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (II) or (ΙΓ):
Figure imgf000040_0001
in which formulae (II) and (ΙΓ):
• R7, Rg, R9, R10, R'7, R'8, R'9 and R o, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
alkoxy, alkylthio; hydroxyl, mercapto;
nitro;
R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X", which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
(0)2S(0")-, X+ with X+ representing an organic or mineral cationic counter ion;
(O)CO--, X+;
- (0)P(02 , 2X+;
R"-S(0)2-, with R" representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, aryl,
(di)(alkyl)amino or aryl(alkyl)amino group; preferably a phenylamino or phenyl group;
- R'"-S(0)2-X'- with R'" representing an alkyl or optionally substituted aryl group;
(di)(alkyl)amino;
aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0")-, X+ and iv) alkoxy with X+;
optionally substituted heteroaryl; preferably a benzothiazolyl group;
- cycloalkyl; especially cyclohexyl,
Ar-N=N- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group, preferably a phenyl optionally substituted with one or more alkyl,
(0)2S(0")-, X+ or phenylamino groups;
or alternatively two contiguous groups R7 with Rg or R« with R9 or R9 with R10 together form a fused benzo group A'; and R'7 with R'g or R's with R'9 or R'9 with R'10 together form a fused benzo group B'; with A' and B' optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0")-, X+; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X"-; x) Ar-N=N- and xi) optionally substituted aryl(alkyl)amino;
• W represents a sigma bond σ, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical i) -NR-, or ii) methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)- with Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or alternatively Ra and Rb form, together with the carbon atom that bears them, a spiro cycloalkyl; preferably W represents a sulfur atom or Ra and Rb together form a cyclohexyl;
wherein formulae (II) and (ΙΓ) comprise at least one sulfonate (0)2S(0")-, X+ or phosphonate (0)P(02 ") 2X+ or carboxylate (O)C(O")-, X+ radical on one of the rings A, A, B, B' or C;
the anthraquinone dyes of formulae (III) and (III'):
Figure imgf000042_0001
in which formulae (III) and (III'):
• R22, R23, R24, R25, R26 and R27, which may be identical or different,
represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
aryloxy or arylthio optionally substituted, preferably substituted with one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0)2S(0")-, X+ with X+ representing an organic or mineral cationic counter ion;
aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0)2S(0 , X+;
(di)(alkyl)amino;
(di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;
(0)2S(0 , X+;
• Z' represents a hydrogen atom or a group NR28R29 with R28 and R29, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
polyhydroxyalkyl such as hydroxy ethyl;
aryl optionally substituted with one or more groups, particularly i) alkyl such as methyl, w-dodecyl, «-butyl; ii) (0)2S(0 , X+; iii) R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"-, preferably R° represents an alkyl group; cycloakyl; especially cyclohexyl;
• Z represents a group chosen from hydroxyl and NR'28R'29 with R'2 and R'29, which may be identical or different, representing the same atoms or groups as R28 and R29;
wherein formulae (III) and (ΙΙΓ) comprise at least one sulfonate group (0)2S(0")-, x+;.
and
the quinoline-based dyes of formula (IV):
Figure imgf000043_0001
in which formula (IV):
• Rtfi represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl group;
• ¾2, ¾3 and ¾4, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (0)2S(0~)-, X+ with X+ representing an organic or mineral cationic counter ion;
• or alternatively R^i with R62, or with ¾4, together form a benzo group optionally substituted with one or more groups (0)2S(0~)-, X+;
• G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRe with ¾ representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;
wherein formula (IV) comprises at least one sulfonate group (0)2S(0~)-, X+.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of the
(a) direct dye ranges from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) fatty material is selected from fatty alcohols, hydrocarbon oils, preferably mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the amount of the
(b) fatty material ranges from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the (c) surfactant is selected from nonionic surfactants.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the amount of the
(c) surfactant ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the (d) monovalent alcohol other than the (b) fatty material is selected from the group consisting of lower aliphatic alcohols, aromatic alcohols and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of ethanol, benzyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the amount of the
(d) monovalent alcohol other than the (b) fatty material ranges from 0.1 % to 15%) by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5%> by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the (e) diester compound is a diester of
a dicarboxylic acid represented by the following formula (A-l):
HOOC- -COOH (A-l) wherein
R is as defined above, and
polyoxyethylene monoalkyl ethers represented by the general following formulae (A-2) and (A-3):
Figure imgf000044_0001
-OH (A-2) and HO-(CH2CH20)n -R2 (A-3) wherein
R1 and R2, and m and n are defined as above.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the amount of the
(e) diester compound ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10%) by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the amount of the
(f) water ranges from 40% to 90%) by weight, preferably from 45% to 80%> by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 70%> by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, wherein the composition further comprises (g) at least one polyol.
A process for dyeing keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14 to the keratin fibers.
PCT/JP2017/015208 2016-04-22 2017-04-07 Composition for dyeing keratin fibers WO2017183562A1 (en)

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