WO2017070115A1

WO2017070115A1 - High efficacy antiperspirant and moisture absorbing cosmetic or drug formulation

Info

Publication number: WO2017070115A1
Application number: PCT/US2016/057539
Authority: WO
Inventors: Michael A. Knopf; William C. Wohland; Anthony Esposito; Lyudmila BEREZNER
Original assignee: Coty Inc.
Priority date: 2015-10-22
Filing date: 2016-10-18
Publication date: 2017-04-27
Also published as: DE102016120103A1

Abstract

Inventive subject matter disclosed herein includes a sweat controlling, water-absorbing cosmetic product. The cosmetic product includes a base formulation, and a sweat-absorbing complex that includes (a) at least one water-absorbing component, (b) at least one surface-active agent, (c) at least one electrolyte, selected from the group consisting of antiperspirant active salts, comprising aluminum halides, aluminum hydroxy-halides, zirconyl oxyhalides, zirconyl hydroxy-halides, and mixtures of these materials, and (d) at least one solvent and/or at least one vehicle.

Description

HIGH EFFICACY ANTIPERSPIRANT AND MOISTURE ABSORBING COSMETIC OR DRUG FORMULATION

Field

Inventive embodiments disclosed herein relate to antiperspirant and deodorant embodiments and to method embodiments for making antiperspirants and deodorantsts.

Background

Cosmetic products directed to treating perspiration include deodorants and antiperspirants. Deodorants eliminate unpleasant odors originating from bacterial decomposition of sweat. Deodorants therefore frequently include antibacterial substances as well as fragrant substances such as aromatic essences. Many ethereal oils have both antibacterial and fragrant properties, for which reason they are frequently used in deodorants.

Antiperspirants inhibit sweat production. Antiperspirants, include astringent agents as active substances, antiperspirant actives, especially aluminum or zirconium salts. One type of astringent, transparent antiperspirant, has gained popularity owing to its aesthetic appearance. This generation of antiperspirants includes emulsions usually having propylene glycol, astringents, water and oils. This type of antiperspirant is less active than a conventional antiperspirant due to polymerization of the astringent agents.

Deodorant products include water, whereas conventional antiperspirants in anon-polar phase such as silicone oil or mineral oil are substantially free of water in order to prevent polymerization of the astringent agents. Patent application WO 03/030853, discloses a substantially water-free forearm product which includes a special water-absorbing polymer, a volatile silicone and a gelling agent, and optionally small amounts of a surfactant to stabilize the formulation, an antiperspirant active substance or deodorizing agent, anon- volatile silicone and an emulsifier. The product is a suspension wherein the water-absorbing polymer is present in the form of dispersed particles. This formulation is not suitable for use in standard hydrous deodorant formulations because the water-absorbing polymer undergoes swelling in water, losing its water storage capacity.

Summary

One inventive embodiment includes a hydrous, water-absorbing cosmetic product. The product includes:

i) a base formulation, and

ii) a sweat-absorbing complex comprising

(a) at least one water-absorbing component,

(b) at least one surface-active agent,

c) at least one electrolyte, selected from the group consisting of antiperspirant active salts, and

(d) at least one solvent and/or at least one vehicle. Other inventive embodiments disclosed herein include a hydrous, water- absorbing product. The product includes:

i) a base formulation, and

ii) a sweat-absorbing complex comprising

(a) at least one water-absorbing component,

(b) at least one surface-active agent,

(d) at least one solvent and/or at least one vehicle.

Detailed Description

In this document, the terms "a" or "an" are used to include one or more than one and the term "or" is used to refer to a nonexclusive "or" unless otherwise indicated. In addition, it is to be understood that the phraseology or terminology employed herein, and not otherwise defined, is for the purpose of description only and not of limitation. Furthermore, all publications, patents, and patent documents referred to in this document are incorporated by reference herein in their entirety, as though individually incorporated by reference. In the event of inconsistent usages between this document and those documents so incorporated by reference, the usage in the incorporated reference should be considered supplementary to that of this document; for irreconcilable inconsistencies, the usage in this document controls.

Inventive subject matter disclosed herein includes a hydrous, water- absorbing cosmetic product embodiment that includes a sweat-absorbing complex, having the following components:

i) a base formulation, and

ii) a sweat-absorbing complex that includes

(a) at least one water-absorbing component,

(b) at least one surface-active agent,

c) at least one electrolyte, selected from the group that includes antiperspirant active salts, and

(d) at least one solvent and/or at least one vehicle.

The sweat-absorbing complex, residing in the base formulation, is present in the form of emulsified particles. The particles include a three- dimensional, water-swellable network of the at least one water-absorbing component and are at least partially covered with the at least one surface-active agent. The antiperspirant active salt electrolyte is incorporated at least partially in the interstices of the three-dimensional network of the at least one water- absorbing component.

Antiperspirant salts useful as astringent antiperspirant salts or as components of astringent complexes include aluminum halides, aluminum hydroxy-halides, zirconyl oxyhalides, zirconyl hydroxy-halides, and mixtures of these materials.

Aluminum salts of this type include aluminum chloride and the aluminum hydroxyhalides having the general formula Al2(OH)xQyXH20 where Q is chlorine, bromine or iodine; where x is from about 2 to about 5, and x+y=about 6, and x and y do not need to be integers; and where X is from about 1 to about 6. Aluminum salts of mis type can be prepared in the manner described more fully in U.S. Pat. No. 3.887.692 issued to Gilman on Jun. 3, 1975, and U.S. Pat. No. 3.904.741 issued to Jones and Rubino on Sep. 9, 1975.

The zirconium compounds which are useful in the present invention include both the zirconium oxy salts and zirconium hydroxy' salts, also referred to as the zirconyl salts and zirconyl hydroxy salts. These compounds may be represented by the following general empirical formula:

wherein z may vary from about 0.9 to about 2 and need not be an integer, n is the valence of B, 2-nz is greater than or equal to 0, and B may be selected from the group consisting of halides, nitrate, sulfamate, sulfate, and mixtures thereof Although only zirconium compounds are exemplified in this specification, it will be understood mat other Group IVB metal compounds, including hafnium, can be used in the present invention. Also included are oxo-hexameric zirconium-octaamino acid salts for

antiperspirant and/or deodorant compositions, having reduced tendency of forming higher molecular weight zirconium complexes. These antiperspirant actives are further described in US 7897799 Specific antiperspirant active salts usable in the formula embodiment include one or more of the following: aluminum zirconium tetrachlorhydrex glycine complex with zinc glycinate and aluminum zirconium tetrachlorhydrex glycine complex with a salt other than zinc glycinate such as sodium glycinate and other water soluble amino acid salts such as sodium alginate. Other active solid antiperspirants include aluminum chlorhydrate, aluminum sesquichhlorhydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium

pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine and aluminum zirconium octochlorohydrex glycine. The aluminum zirconium- containing materials are commonly referred to as antiperspirant active aluminum zirconium salts. Generally, the foregoing metal antiperspirant active materials are antiperspirant active metal salts listed in the Federal Register, Vol. 68, No. 110/Monday, Jun. 9, 2003/Rules and Regulations.

Salts useful as astringent antiperspirant salts or as components of astringent complexes include aluminum halides, aluminum hydroxy-halides, zirconyl oxyhalides, zirconyl hydroxy-halides, and mixtures of these materials.

The sweat-absorbing complex includes a form of emulsified particles which includes a three-dimensional, water-swellable polymer network of the at least one water-absorbing component. The sweat-absorbing complex is at least partially coated with the at least one surface-active agent.

Another embodiment includes an addition of propylene glycol, dibenzylidene sorbitol and an antiperspirant active salt such as an amino active salt such as aluiminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine complex. Other amino acid salts include sodium arginate. Another embodiment includes a blend that includes dibenzylidene sorbital and adding an antiperspirant active to the blend. In the complex, the at least one water-absorbing component, which does not undergo complete swelling in the solvent and/or vehicle, but is capable of swelling in water to form particles of a three-dimensional gel-like polymer network, is protected from absorption of water by a base formulation of the cosmetic product owing to the coating of the at least one surface-active agent. The coating of the at least one surfactant stabilizes the particles of the absorbing material, thereby preserving their sweat absorbency. Also, the coating that includes the surface-active agent provides for homogeneous suspension of the absorber particles in the base formulation.

Following application onto the skin, water included in the base formulation evaporates/volatilizes, as a result of which the dehydrated product forms a thin film on the skin. Owing to this process, the surfactant remains between the skin and the water-absorbing component. The surface-active agent supports the adherence of the water-absorbing component on the skin, mediating contact between the former and the skin, which contact allows absorption of sweat by the particles. Owing to the encapsulation, only a minor proportion of the water-absorbing component undergoes swelling in the water of the formulation. Most of the water absorption capacity is available for sweat absorption. The elevated sweat absorption capacity of the absorber material is preserved for a longer period of time compared to conventional compositions.

The moisture-absorbing complex, has outstanding sweat absorption capacity, moisture reduction benefit. The complex is suitable for incorporation in any cosmetic product, especially in products such as antiperspirants and deodorants. The sweat-absorbing complex is also usable in other products having water absorptive features such as diapers and towels. According!}', inventive embodiments disclosed herein include the sweat- absorbing complex having ingredients with the following concentration ranges:

(a) 10 to 80%, particularly 20 to 70%, and for some embodiments, about 30 to 50% of at least one water-absorbing component,

(b) 10 to 70%, particularly 20 to 60%, and, for some embodiments, about

30 to 45% of at least one surface-active agent,

(c) 0.05 to 15%, particularly 0.1 to 10%, and for some embodiments, about 1 to 5% of at least one antiperspirant active electrolyte, and

(d) optionally 0 to 50% of at least one solvent and/or at least one vehicle. Particular concentration ranges depend upon the properties of the individual components and the type of cosmetic product.

At least one water-absorbing component is essentially insoluble in the at least one solvent and/or vehicle but, is capable of swelling in water without being completely dissolved in the water included in a base formulation of a cosmetic product. It has a water absorption capacity of at least 20%, particularly at least 50%, based on its dry weight. The mean particle size of the water- absorbing component in the complex ranges from 0.1 to 450 urn, particularly from 10 to 200 urn. Particles with a mean particle size between 50 and 100 um show particularly good results.

Cosmetic products having the sweat-absorbing complex described herein include antiperspirants and deodorants, such as any sweat controlling or deodorizing preparations, sticks, sprays, aerosols, creams, sunscreens, aftershaves, lotions, foundation creams, and make-ups. One advantage of the complex according to the invention is mat it can be added easily to any base formulations without losing its water storage capacity. Typically, such products include 1 to 40 wt.-% water, particularly 3 to 20 wt.-%. Standard deodorant products are single-phase formulations and include about 12 wt.-% water.

The sweat-absorbing complex is usable in cosmetic products in a wide concentration range of from 0.05 to 99 wt.-%. Typically, the complex is included in a base formulation in a range of from 0.1 to 10 wt.-%, in some embodiments, from 0.25 to 5 wt.-%. In an antiperspirant or deodorant base formulation the complex advantageously has a weight percentage between 0.1 and 10%, particularly about 1%. The actual antiperspirant or deodorant base formulation usually includes 60 to 90 wt. %, particularly 70 to 80 wt.-% of at least one solvent, 5 to 20%, particularly 10 to 15% water, and 1 to 15%, particularly 5 to 8% of at least one gelling agent.

Some cosmetic product embodiments also include auxiliary substances and/or active agents, e.g. pigments, colorants, antioxidants, preservatives, other moisture-retaining substances, softeners, fragrances, such as aromatic essences, stabilizers, cell turn-over promoters, cell proliferation stimulators, antiinflammatory agents, antimicrobial agents, hormone regulators, enzyme inhibitors, UV absorbers, sunscreens and the like, and mixtures thereof.

Hie cosmetic product according to embodiments disclosed herein includes a coating of the absorber particles of the sweat-absorbing complex by the at least one surfactant. This structure of the sweat-absorbing complex can be obtained by:

(a) mixing at least one water-absorbing component with the at least one electrolyte,

(b) adding the at least one surface-active agent with stirring and heat until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, and, in case of using a solvent and/or vehicle,

(c) adding the at least one solvent and/or at least one vehicle to the mixture of step (b) and mixing to form a substantially homogeneous mixture.

The application of thermal energy and shear forces, by stirring, in step (b) is crucial in causing rupture of inter- and intramolecular bonds within the surface-active agent and water-absorbing component and allowing generation of new physical interactions, especially hydrophobic interactions and hydrogen bridges, between said at least one surfactant and said at least one water- absorbing component in the subsequent cooling process. With no application of thermal energy and shear forces, surfactant(s) and water-absorbing component(s) merely develop very sparse physical interactions, and— following addition to a cosmetic base formulation— are unable to provide a cosmetic product with significant water absorption capacity.

To produce the cosmetic product, the thus prefabricated sweat-absorbing complex, already including the coated absorber particles, is simply added to a suitable base formulation, particularly to a hydrous deodorant base formulation. Suitable substances for the particular ingredients of the sweat-absorbing complex will be referred to below.

Water- Absorbing Component

The at least one water-absorbing component is selected from any natural or synthetic polymers capable of swelling in water to form a three-dimensional gel-like network.

The water-absorbing components usable herein include gums or gum-like polymers. In the context of the embodiments disclosed herein, "gum" is generally defined as any water soluble polymer isolated from terrestrial or marine plants or microorganisms, which is capable of contributing to viscosity and/or swellability of a dispersion thereof. The water-absorbing component is, for some embodiments, a gum derived from vegetable or microbial biosy nthesis of terrestrial or marine organisms. Such gums essentially include repeats of monosaccharide units and have relatively high molecular weights of at least 100,000 g/mol. Examples of preferred gums are guar gums (Cyamopsis letragonolobus gum), guar derivatives, locust bean gum, cellulose gum, gum arabic, gum karaya, tragacanth, gums derived from algae (comprising agar, carrageenan, furcellaran, and alginates), scleroglucan (sclerotium gum), tamarind seed gum, xanthan gum, dextran gum, gellan gum, propylene glycol alginate and the like, as well as derivatives and mixtures thereof.

Another class of water-absorbing components are polysaccharides of vegetable origin, essentially comprising repeats of monosaccharide units of hexoses and/or pentoses. Specific examples comprise natural celluloses, natural fibers, cellulose derivatives, microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcelluloses, methylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses,

hydroxypropylmelhylcelluloses, pectins, maltodextrins, inulin, inulin derivatives, starch, starch derivatives, derivatives and mixtures thereof.

Another group of suitable water-absorbing components is selected from chemically modified polysaccharides, particularly from the group including cellulose derivatives, starch derivatives, pectin derivatives,

starch/acrylamide/sodium acrylate graft copolymers (starch graft polymers), and mixtures thereof.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the at least one water-absorbing component is selected from polyacrylate-based synthetic polymers, essentially comprising repeats of acrylic acid, acrylamide, methacrylic acid, derivatives or mixtures thereof. Examples of such compounds comprise sodium polyacrylate, polyacrylamide, their copolymers and/or mixtures thereof.

Another group of water-absorbing components is selected from silicic acids

and any types of derivatives and modifications thereof. Suitable examples comprise condensation products thereof, i.e., polysilicic acids

silicic anhydride (silica, SiO₂), fumed silica, hydrated silica

silica gel, silicate esters and/or silicate salts such as sodium silicate, magnesium silicate and calcium silicate. It was found that the water absorption rate and capacity of these silica components can be dramatically enhanced by pre-dispersing them in an oil phase prior to the production of the complex.

It is also possible to use mixtures of the above-mentioned water- absorbing components.

Surface-Active Agents

As set forth above, the at least one surface-active agent assumes the function of forming a coating on the exterior surface of the particles of the water-absorbing component(s), thereby influencing the surface properties thereof. More specifically, the surface-active agents aid in retaining the polymer on the skin, protecting it from undesirable water absorption from the base formulation. Surface-active agents comprise compounds, including monomers, dimers, trimers, oligomers and polymers, which have lipophilic as well as hydrophilic functionalities of a strength sufficient to develop affinity to both hydrophilic and lipophilic portions of the formulation. Such agents form oriented layers around the water-absorbing particles. In this way, the particles of the water-absorbing component(s) are stabilized and distributed homogeneously within the formulation.

For the purposes mentioned above, the surface-active agent has a so- called hydrophilic/lipophilic balance (HLB) of below 13, particularly in the range of from 2 to 13 for some embodiments, for other embodiments, from 3 to 11. Very good results are obtained with surfactants having an HLB ranging from 3 to 9, for some embodiments, from 4 to 8. The HLB is a dimensionless value developed by C. Griffin, which accounts for the relative amounts of lipophilic versus hydrophilic segments of a material. The assignment of numerical values for the HLB is based on effects of chemical groups within a molecule (D. L. Courtney, in "Surfactants in Cosmetics", 2^nd edition, Marcel Dekker, Inc., New York, 1997, 128-130).

According to one embodiment of the invention, a mixture of at least two surface-active agents is used in the complex. In this event, it is also possible to use surfactants with HLB values outside the above-mentioned ranges, provided an effective weighted average HLB of such a combination falls within the above-mentioned ranges.

The at least one surface-active agent, is, for some embodiments, a non- ionic, anionic, canonic or amphoteric compound or a combination thereof.

Assorted examples include fatty alcohols, ethoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated triglycerides, ethoxylated oils, monoglycerides, carboxylic esters of alkyl or alkenyl glycols, C₁-C₄₀ fatty acid esters of polyols, C₁-C₄₀ fatty acid ethers of polyols, Ci-Gto fatty acid esters of alkyl or alkenyl glycols, poly glycerol esters, poly glycerol esters of C₁-C₄₀ fatty acids, hydrocarbon-derived esters, sugar esters and polyesters, alkoxylated sugar esters and polyesters, ethoxy lated carboxylic esters of C₁-C₄₀ fatty acids, sorbitan or polysorbate esters of fatty acids, ethoxylated sorbitan esters of fatty acids, ethoxylated sugar ethers of fatty acids, alkoxylated derivatives of C₁-C₄₀ fatty acid esters of C₁-C₄₀ fatty alcohols, alkoxylated derivatives of C₁-C₄₀ fatty acid ethers of C₁-C₄₀ fatty alcohols, polyethylene glycol ethers, polyethylene glycol esters, ethoxylated

polysiloxanes, alkyl glycosides, alkanolamides, amine oxides, cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, carboxy lic acids and derivatives thereof, sulfonic acid derivatives, sulfuric acid derivatives, phosphoric acid derivatives, ethoxylated fatty ether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyl lactylates, alkylamidoalkylamines, alkylamines, alkylimidazolines, alkyl-substituted amino acids, and mixtures thereof. Specific examples are saccharose stearate and sorbitan sesquioleate and mixtures of thereof.

Electrolytes

The at least one antiperspirant active electrolyte assumes the function of stabilizing the complex, especially the particles, and increasing the water absorption— by electrostatic repulsion interactions between the ions, forces between the polymer chains— and the osmotic pressure of the particles. In this way, the antiperspirant active electrolytes retain the water within the particles and aid in maintaining the stability and structure of the particles. The required weight percentages of the electrolyte in the water-absorbing complex depend on the physical and chemical properties of the electrolyte and of the other components.

Solvent/Vehicle

For some embodiments, a solvent and/or a vehicle is present in the sweat- absorbing complex. In general, this is required only in those cases where the at least one surface-active agent is a solid. In the event of a surface-active agent present in the form of a liquid, neither solvent nor vehicle is required.

Said at least one solvent and/or said at least one vehicle can be selected from the group including glycols, glycerol, polar and non-polar oils,

hydrocarbons, ethers, esters, medium- and long-chain alcohols, alkoxylated alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, polyols, and mixtures thereof. Specific examples comprise propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, diacetin, triacetin, isopropyl palmitate, isododecane, isohexadecane, triglycerides, mineral oil, and mixtures thereof.

Inventive embodiments disclosed herein are a combination of an aluminum salt active for underarm wetness control with the referenced moisture absorbing complex. The embodiments provide a unique enhanced underarm wetness control benefit and unexpected, improved efficacy to a consumer. It was found that a formulation employing 10% aluminum salt as the sole active ingredient demonstrated a wetness control efficacy of 20.25% at 72 hours after application for at least 50% of a population tested. This result comports with acceptable efficacy of an antiperspirant, based on the United States FDA guidelines for wetness control testing of an antiperspirant. A formulation was also tested that included only the moisture absorbing complex, not an aluminum salt. This formulation demonstrated a wetness control efficacy of 20% at 72 hours after application for at least 50% of a population tested. When a formulation was tested that included both the moisture absorbing complex discussed herein and 10% aluminum salt, the improved effect for consumers was an underarm wetness control that was increased by 80%, compared to the formulation with aluminum salt alone and the moisture absorbing complex alone, to 36.08%. The only changes in the formulations tested were in the presence or absence of aluminum salt and moisture complex factor. Further embodiments of the invention can be inferred from other features specified in the dependent claims.

[0001] The embodiments are described in sufficient detail to enable those skilled in the art to practice the invention. Other embodiments may be utilized and formulation and method of using changes may be made without departing from the scope of the invention. The detailed description is not to be taken in a limiting sense, and the scope of the invention is defined only by the appended claims, along with the full scope of equivalents to which such claims are entitled.

[0002] It will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that changes could be made to the embodiments described above without departing from the broad inventive concept thereof. It is understood, therefore, that this invention is not limited to the particular embodiments disclosed, but it is intended to cover modifications within the spirit and scope of the present invention as defined by the present description.

Claims

In the Claims What is claimed is:

1. A sweat controlling or water-absorbing cosmetic product, comprising: i) a base formulation, and

ii) a sweat-absorbing complex comprising

(a) at least one water-absorbing component,

(b) at least one surface-active agent,

c) at least one electrolyte, selected from the group consisting of antiperspirant active salts, comprising aluminum halides, aluminum hydroxy-halides, zirconyl oxyhalides, zirconyl hydroxy- -halides, and mixtures of these materials, and

(d) at least one solvent and/or at least one vehicle.

2. The water-absorbing cosmetic product of claim 1, wherein the antiperspirant active salts include Aluminum salts of this type include aluminum chloride and the aluminum hydroxyhalides having the general formula

where Q is chlorine, bromine or iodine; where x is from about 2 to about 5, and x+y=about 6, and x and y do not need to be integers; and where X is from about 1 to about 6.

3. The water-absorbing cosmetic product of claim 1, wherein the antiperspirant active salts include zirconium oxy salts and zirconium hydroxy' salts, represented by the following general empirical formula:

wherein z may vary from about 0.9 to about 2 and need not be an integer, n is the valence of B, 2-nz is greater than or equal to 0, and B may be selected from the group consisting of halides, nitrate, sulfamate, sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

4. The water-absorbing cosmetic product of claim 1 , wherein the antiperspirant active salts include at least one of the following: aluminum zirconium tetrachlorhydrex glycine complex with zinc glycinate and aluminum zirconium tetrachlorhydrex glycine complex with a salt other than zinc glycinate such as sodium glycinate and other water soluble amino acid salts such as sodium arginate; or aluminum chlorhydrate, aluminum sesquichhlorhydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine or aluminum zirconium octocMorohydrex glycine.

5. . The water-absorbing cosmetic product of claim 1 , wherein the antiperspirant active salts include aluminum halides, aluminum hydroxy -halides, zirconyl oxyhalides, zirconyl hydroxy-halides, and mixtures of these materials

6. The water absorbing cosmetic product of claim 1, wherein the base formulation is an antiperspirant base.

7. The water absorbing cosmetic product of claim 1 , wherein the base formulation is a deodorant base.

8. The water absorbing cosmetic product of claim 1 , wherein the base formulation is an after-shave.

9. The water absorbing cosmetic product of claim 1 , wherein the base formulation is a foundation cream or emulsion.

10. The water absorbing cosmetic product of claim 1, wherein the base formulation is a color make-up.