WO2016096628A1

WO2016096628A1 - Process for removing cosmetic compositions comprising a high content of polymer in dispersion or in solution

Info

Publication number: WO2016096628A1
Application number: PCT/EP2015/079342
Authority: WO
Inventors: Stéphane DOUEZAN; Jean-Yves Fouron
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2014-12-18
Filing date: 2015-12-11
Publication date: 2016-06-23
Also published as: FR3030232A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a process for removing makeup from and/or for cleansing keratin materials, preferably keratin fibres, especially the eyelashes, comprising: application to said keratin materials of a makeup composition comprising at least 10% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the makeup composition, of a water-insoluble film-forming polymer, and application to said made-up keratin materials of a makeup-removing composition comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based oil, in which said hydrocarbon-based oil(s) have a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter δ_a ranging from 2 to 15 J^0.5/cm^1.5, the makeup-removing composition comprising a content strictly greater than 15% by weight of hydrocarbon-based 1 oil(s) relative to the total weight of the makeup-removing composition.

Description

Process for removing cosmetic compositions comprising a high content of polymer in dispersion or in solution

The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for removing makeup from and/or for cleansing keratin materials, preferably keratin fibres, especially the eyelashes, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a makeup composition comprising at least 10% active material of a film- forming polymer dispersed in aqueous or anhydrous medium, relative to the total weight of the makeup composition, and the application to made-up keratin materials of a makeup-removing composition comprising at least one oil with a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and with a solubility parameter 6_a ranging from 2 to 15 J^0'5/cm^{1 5}.

The removal of makeup from the skin is very important for facial care. It must be as efficient as possible since fatty residues, such as excess sebum, the residues of cosmetic products used daily and makeup products accumulate in the skin folds and on the surface of the skin, and they can block the skin pores and thus cause the appearance of spots.

However, consumers are nowadays looking for makeup products that have increasingly long persistence: waterproof mascaras, long-lasting and transfer-resistant foundations, lipsticks that stay on all day. For example, long-lasting mascaras are known which have high contents of film-forming polymers dispersed either in aqueous phase or in anhydrous phase. These dispersed film-forming polymers are used for improving the persistence over time of mascara compositions and also the rub resistance.

However, cosmetic products incorporating such dispersed polymers are difficult to remove from the keratin substrates onto which they are applied. Thus, to remove these products, it is necessary to use increasingly efficient formulations, which can cleanse the skin thoroughly while at the same time being gentle to it, i.e. without aggressing it.

To facilitate makeup removal, it is known practice from patent application F 2 861 987 to use linear volatile silicone oils to improve the makeup-removing power of the compositions. It is also known practice from patent application EP 1 543 812 to use a particular combination of particular oils for improving the makeup-removing power: isohexadecane, isopropyl myristate and hexyl laurate. However, these makeup-removing compositions do not allow efficient removal of makeup compositions with a high content of latex.

The need thus remains for makeup-removing compositions that are even more efficient, and that can especially remove all types of mascara (wax-in-water emulsions or products with a high content of film-forming polymer dispersed in an aqueous or anhydrous medium).

The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that the use of at least one oil with a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter δ₃ ranging from 2 to 15 J^{0 5}/cm^{1 5}, makes it possible to remove cosmetic makeup compositions from keratin materials, preferably from keratin fibres, comprising a high content of film-forming polymer dispersed in aqueous or anhydrous medium. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM. Hansen: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

- δ_ά characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;

- δ_ρ characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

- 8h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.); δ₃ is determined by the equation δ₃ = (δ_ρ ² + δ^²)^1/2

The parameters δα, δ_ρ, δ^, and δ₃ are expressed in (J/cm³)^{1 2}.

The global solubility parameter δ according to the Hansen solubility space is defined in the article "Solubility parameter values" by Eric A. Grulke in the book "Polymer Handbook", 3rd Edition, Chapter VI I, pages 519-559, by the relationship:

δ = (¾² + δ_ρ ² +δ_Η ²)^ΐ/2

One subject of the present invention is a process for removing makeup from and/or for cleansing keratin materials, preferably keratin fibres, especially the eyelashes, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a makeup composition comprising at least 10% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the makeup composition, of a water-insoluble film-forming polymer, and the application to the made-up keratin materials of a makeup-removing composition comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based oil, in which said hydrocarbon-based oil(s) have a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solu bility parameter δ₃ ranging from 2 to 15 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}, the makeup-removing composition comprising a content strictly greater than 15% by weight of hydrocarbon-based oil(s), relative to the total weight of the makeup-removing composition.

A second aspect of the present invention relates to the use of a makeup-removing composition comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based oil, in which said hydrocarbon-based oil(s) have a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter δ₃ ranging from 2 to 15 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}, the makeup-removing composition comprises a content strictly greater than 15% by weight of hydrocarbon-based oil(s), relative to the total weight of the makeup-removing composition, for removing makeup from and/or for cleansing keratin materials, preferably keratin fibres and especially the eyelashes, made up with a makeup composition comprising at least 10% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the makeup composition, of a water- insolu ble film-forming polymer. According to the preferred embodiments, subjects of the present invention are also the following technical characteristics which respond to at least one of the technical problems mentioned, considered alone or in combination: - the makeup-removing composition comprises at least 16% by weight of hydrocarbon-based oil(s), relative to the total weight of the makeup-removing composition, preferably at least 18% by weight, better still at least 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 40% to 95% by weight and in particular ranging from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the makeup-removing composition;

the oil(s) included in the makeup-removing composition are chosen from synthetic esters and ethers, especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formulae iCOO ₂ and iO ₂ in which Ri represents a fatty acid residue comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R₂ represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and optionally comprising an amide or hydroxyl group, and mixtures thereof; the oil(s) included in the makeup-removing composition are chosen from dicaprylyl ether, isononyl isononanoate, diisobutyl adipate, dimethyl isosorbide, tributyl citrate, diisopropyl adipate and isodecyl neopentanoate, the oil Rhodiasolv RPDE, a mixture of dimethyl succinate/dimethyl adipate/dimethyl glutamate (67/10/23), and mixtures thereof; the oil(s) included in the makeup-removing composition are chosen from oils with a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter 8_a preferably ranging from 3.5 to 15 J° Vcm^{1 5}, more preferentially from 5 to 12 J° Vcm^{1 5}; the oil according to the invention included in the makeup-removing composition is dimethyl isosorbide; the oil according to the invention included in the makeup-removing composition is diisopropyl adipate; according to a preferred embodiment, the oil according to the invention included in the makeup-removing composition is diisobutyl adipate;

the oil according to the invention included in the makeup-removing composition is tributyl citrate; the makeup-removing composition comprises at least one oil with a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter 8_a ranging from 2 to 15 J° Van^{1 5} and at least one additional oil; the additional oil is chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, and in particular from linear or branched hydrocarbons, synthetic esters, especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formula RiCOOR₂ in which R_x represents a fatty acid residue comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R₂ represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from hydrocarbons;

- the additional oil is paraffin; - the makeup-removing composition comprises at least one surfactant, a preserving agent, an antioxidant, a fragrance, a dyestuff, a filler, a cosmetic active agent, a thickener, a lipophilic or hydrophilic polymer, a phase-separating agent, a sequestrant, and mixtures thereof;

- the makeup-removing composition is in the form of an optionally two-phase lotion, a milk, a cream, an oil, a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, an anhydrous composition, or alternatively a gel, preferably in the form of an anhydrous composition;

- the film-forming polymer included in the makeup composition is chosen from synthetic polymers, of free-radical type or of polycondensate type, of natural origin, and mixtures thereof; - the water-insoluble film-forming polymer is dispersed in aqueous or anhydrous medium;

- the aqueous phase of the makeup composition represents from 30% to 80% by weight and preferably from 40% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the makeup composition;

- the film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion is chosen from acrylic polymer dispersions, polyurethane dispersions, sulfopolyester dispersions, vinyl dispersions, polyvinyl acetate dispersions, vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride terpolymer dispersions, dispersions of polyurethane/polyacrylic hybrid polymers, dispersions of particles of core-shell type and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof, preferably from acrylic polymer dispersions, dispersions of polyurethane/polyacrylic hybrid polymers, and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof, preferentially from acrylic polymer dispersions, in particular polyester-polyurethane dispersions, and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof;

- the film-forming polymer included in the makeup composition is dispersed in aqueous medium;

- the film-forming polymer included in the makeup composition is dispersed in anhydrous medium;

- the film-forming polymer dispersed in anhydrous medium is chosen from polyurethane dispersions, polyurethane-acrylic dispersions, polyurea dispersions, polyurea/polyurethane dispersions, polyester/polyurethane dispersions, polyether/polyurethane dispersions, polyester dispersions, polyester amide dispersions, fatty-chain polyester dispersions, acrylic and/or vinyl polymer or copolymer dispersions, silicone polymer dispersions, fluoropolymer dispersions, and mixtures thereof.

The present invention also relates to the use of a makeup-removing composition comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based oil, in which said hydrocarbon-based oil(s) have a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter 8_a ranging from 2 to 15 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}, the makeup- removing composition comprises a content strictly greater than 15% by weight of hydrocarbon-based oil(s), relative to the total weight of the makeup-removing composition, for removing makeup from and/or for cleansing keratin materials, preferably keratin fibres and especially the eyelashes, made up with a makeup composition comprising at least 10% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the makeup composition, of a water-insoluble film-forming polymer. MAKEUP COMPOSITION

The makeup composition is a composition for making up keratin materials, preferably keratin fibres and in particular the eyelashes.

When the makeup composition is a mascara composition, it may be prepared according to two types of formulation: water-based mascaras known as cream mascaras, in the form of a dispersion of waxes in water; and anhydrous mascaras or mascaras with a low water content, known as waterproof mascaras, in the form of dispersions of waxes in organic solvents.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "anhydrous composition" or "anhydrous mascara" denotes, respectively, a composition or a mascara which contains less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% water relative to its total weight, and especially a composition or a mascara that is free of water.

The makeup composition comprises at least 10% by weight of at least one film-forming polymer dispersed either in aqueous medium or in anhydrous medium.

In the present patent application, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer that is capable, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a macroscopically continuous deposit, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and even better still a deposit whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said deposit can be isolated and manipulated individually, for example when said deposit is prepared by pouring onto a non-stick surface such as a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface. According to a particular embodiment, the film-forming polymer is water-insoluble, it is not dissolved in water to give a homogeneous one-phase solution. It may be in the form of a dispersion of droplets of hydrophobic polymer in water (commonly known as a latex) or in the form of a solution or a dispersion in anhydrous medium. Such a film-forming polymer is soluble in an oily medium.

Preferably, the film-forming polymer is dispersed either in aqueous medium or in anhydrous medium.

- dispersed film-forming polymer

According to a first embodiment, the film-forming polymer is dispersed in aqueous medium. In this case, the makeup composition comprises at least one film-forming polymer in a total active material content of at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the makeup composition. A makeup composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total active material content of film-forming polymer dispersed in aqueous medium ranging from 10% to 30% by weight, preferably from 12% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the makeup composition.

According to a second embodiment, the film-forming polymer is dispersed in anhydrous medium. In this case, the makeup composition comprises at least one film-forming polymer dispersed in anhydrous medium in an active material content ranging from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight and better still from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the makeup composition. A dispersion that is suitable for use in the invention may comprise one or more types of film-forming polymer, which may vary as regards their structure and/or their chemical nature.

Among the film-forming polymers that may be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free-radical type or of polycondensate type, and polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. In general, these polymers may be statistical polymers, block copolymers of A-B type, of A- B-A or also ABCD, etc. multiblock type, or even grafted polymers. o Free-radical film-forming polymer

The term "free-radical polymer" means a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated and especially ethylenic monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

The film-forming polymers of free-radical type may in particular be acrylic and/or vinyl homopolymers or copolymers.

The vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers containing at least one acid group and/or esters of these acid monomers and/or amides of these acid monomers.

Ethylenically unsaturated monomers containing at least one acid group or monomer bearing an acid group that may be used include α,β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or itaconic acid. (Meth)acrylic acid and crotonic acid are used in particular, and more particularly (meth)acrylic acid.

The esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from (meth)acrylic acid esters (also known as (meth)acrylates), especially (meth)acrylates of an alkyl, in particular of a C1-C20 and more particularly C1-C8 alkyl, (meth)acrylates of an aryl, in particular of a C6-C10 aryl, and (meth)acrylates of a hydroxyalkyl, in particular of a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl. In the present invention, the term "alkyl" means a linear or branched, saturated C8-C24, better still C12-C20 and more preferentially C14-C18 hydrocarbon-based chain.

Among the alkyl (meth)acrylates that may be mentioned are methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate and lauryl methacrylate. Mention may be made, among hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2- hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate or 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

Mention may be made, among aryl (meth)acrylates, of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

The (meth)acrylic acid esters are in particular alkyl (meth)acrylates.

According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say that a portion or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are replaced by fluorine atoms. Free-radical polymers that are preferably used include copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of alkyl (meth)acrylate, especially of a C1-C4 alkyl. Methyl acrylates optionally copolymerized with acrylic acid may more preferentially be used.

Examples of amides of acid monomers that may be mentioned are (meth)acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides, in particular of a C2-C12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides that may be mentioned are N-ethylacrylamide, N-t-butylacrylamide and N-t-octylacrylamide.

The vinyl polymers may also result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers containing at least one amine group, in free form or in partially or totally neutralized form, or alternatively in partially or totally quaternized form. Such monomers may be, for example, dimethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylamide, vinylamine, vinylpyridine or diallyldimethylammonium chloride.

The vinyl film-forming polymers may also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers may be polymerized with acid monomers and/or esters thereof and/or amides thereof, such as those mentioned previously.

Examples of vinyl esters that may be mentioned include vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butylbenzoate.

Styrene monomers that may be mentioned include styrene and a-methylstyrene.

The list of monomers given is not limiting, and it is possible to use any monomer known to those skilled in the art included in the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including monomers modified with a silicone chain).

Vinyl polymers that may also be used include N-vinylpyrrolidone; vinylcaprolactam; vinyl-N-(Cl- C6)alkylpyrroles; vinyloxazoles; vinylthiazoles; vinylpyrimidines; vinylimidazoles; olefins such as ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene or butadiene. The vinyl polymer may be crosslinked using a difunctional monomer, especially comprising at least two ethylenic unsaturations, such as ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or diallyl phthalate.

Mention may also be made of polymers resulting from free-radical polymerization of one or more free-radical monomers inside and/or partially at the surface of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer chosen from the group consisting of polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters, polyesteramides and/or alkyds. These polymers are generally referred to as "hybrid polymers".

In a non-limiting manner, the polymers of the invention may be chosen from the following polymers or copolymers: polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, polyester- polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, fatty-chain polyesters, alkyds; acrylic-silicone copolymers; polyacrylamides; silicone polymers, fluoro polymers; and mixtures thereof. o Polycondensate As film-forming polymer of polycondensate type, mention may be made of anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, acrylic polyurethanes, polyvinylpyrrolidone-polyurethanes, polyester- polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea/polyurethanes and silicone polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof. The film-forming polyurethane may be, for example, an aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic polyurethane, polyurea/urethane or polyurea copolymer comprising, alone or as a mixture, at least one block chosen from: a block of aliphatic and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic polyester origin, and/or a branched or unbranched silicone block, for example polydimethylsiloxane or polymethylphenylsiloxane, and/or a block comprising fluoro groups.

The film-forming polyurethanes as defined in the invention may also be obtained from branched or unbranched polyesters or from alkyds comprising labile hydrogens, which are modified by reaction with a diisocyanate and a difunctional organic compound (for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino), also comprising either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, or a sulfonic acid or sulfonate group, or alternatively a neutralizable tertiary amine group or a quaternary ammonium group.

Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may also be made of polyesters, polyesteramides, fatty-chain polyesters, polyamides and epoxyester resins. The polyesters may be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, especially diols.

The dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids that may be mentioned include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4- cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornanedicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or as a combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, the ones chosen in particular are phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid.

The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols. The diol used is chosen in particular from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexanedimethanol and 4-butanediol. Other polyols that may be used are glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol and trimethylolpropane. The polyesteramides may be obtained in a manner analogous to that of the polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. Diamines that may be used are ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine and meta- or para-phenylenediamine. An amino alcohol that may be used is monoethanolamine. o Polymer of natural origin

Use may be made in the present invention of optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums, copal resins, water-insoluble cellulose- based polymers such as nitrocellulose, modified cellulose esters especially including carboxyalkyl cellulose esters such as those described in patent application US 2003/185 774, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, said at least one film-forming polymer in the dispersed state is chosen from acrylic polymer dispersions, polyurethane dispersions, sulfopolyester dispersions, vinyl dispersions, polyvinyl acetate dispersions, vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride terpolymer dispersions, dispersions of polyurethane/polyacrylic hybrid polymers and dispersions of particles of core-shell type, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the film-forming polymer is dispersed in aqueous solution. A film- forming polymer present in said preparation of the composition in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion is generally known as a (pseudo)latex, i.e. a latex or pseudolatex. Techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

Various types of aqueous dispersions, in particular commercial aqueous dispersions, which are suited to the preparation of the composition in accordance with the present invention are detailed below.

1/ Thus, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer.

The acrylic polymer can be a styrene/acrylate copolymer and especially a polymer chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrene monomer and at least one Cl- C18 alkyi (meth)acrylate monomer.

As styrene monomers that may be used in the invention, examples that may be mentioned include styrene and a-methylstyrene, and in particular styrene.

The C1-C18 alkyi (meth)acrylate monomer is in particular a C1-C12 alkyi (meth)acrylate and more particularly a C1-C10 alkyi (meth)acrylate. The C1-C18 alkyi (meth)acrylate monomer may be chosen from methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate and stearyl (meth)acrylate.

As acrylic polymer in aqueous dispersion, use may be made according to the invention of the styrene/acrylate copolymer sold under the name Joncryl SCX-8211^® by the company BASF or Syntran 5760CG by the company Interpolymer, the acrylic polymer sold under the reference Acronal^® DS- 6250 by the company BASF, or the acrylic copolymer Joncryl^® 95 by the company BASF. 2/ According to one embodiment variant of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of polyester-polyurethane and/or polyether-polyurethane particles, in particular in anionic form. The anionic nature of the polyester-polyurethanes and of the polyether-polyurethanes used according to the invention is due to the presence in their constituent units of groups bearing a carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid function.

The polyester-polyurethane or polyether-polyurethane particles used according to the invention are generally sold in aqueous dispersion form. The particle content of said dispersions currently available on the market ranges from about 20% to about 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

Among the anionic polyester-polyurethane dispersions that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the product sold under the name Avalure U 405^® by the company Noveon or Baycusan C1004 by the company Bayer Material Science.

Among the anionic polyether-polyurethane particle dispersions that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the products sold under the name Avalure UR 450^® by the company Noveon and under the name Neorez R 970^® by the company DSM.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, use may be made of a mixture of commercial dispersions consisting of anionic polyester-polyurethane particles as defined above and of anionic polyether-polyurethane particles also defined above.

For example, use may be made of a mixture consisting of the dispersion sold under the name Sancure 861^® or a mixture of the product sold under the name Avalure UR 405^® and of the product sold under the name Avalure UR 450^®, these dispersions being sold by the company Noveon. As aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer, use may be made of: the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Acronal DS-6250^® by the company BASF, Neocryl A-45^®, Neocryl XK-90^®, Neocryl A-1070^®, Neocryl A-1090^®, Neocryl BT-62^®, Neocryl A-1079^® and Neocryl A-523^® by the company DSM, Joncryl 95^® and Joncryl 8211^® by the company BASF, Daitosol 5000 AD^® or Daitosol 5000 SJ by the company Daito Kasey Kogyo; Syntran 5760 CG by the company Interpolymer, the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names Neorez R-981^® and Neorez R- 974^® by the company DSM, Avalure UR-405^®, Avalure UR-410^®, Avalure UR-425^®, Avalure UR-450^®, Sancure 875^®, Avalure UR 445^® and Avalure UR 450^® by the company Noveon, Impranil 85^® by the company Bayer, and Baycusan C1004^® by the company Bayer Material Science, the sulfopolyesters sold under the brand name Eastman AQ^® by the company Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl dispersions such as Mexomer PAM, aqueous dispersions of polyvinyl acetate such as Vinybran^® from the company Nisshin Chemical or the products sold by the company Union Carbide, aqueous dispersions of vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride terpolymer such as Styleze W^® from ISP, aqueous dispersions of polyurethane/polyacrylic hybrid polymer such as the products sold under the references Hybridur^® by the company Air Products or Duromer^® from National Starch, dispersions of particles of core-shell type such as the products sold by the company Arkema under the reference Kynar^® (core: fluorinated - shell: acrylic) or alternatively those described in US 5 188 899 (core: silica - shell: silicone) and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition in accordance with the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of particles chosen from aqueous dispersions of acrylic film-forming polymer(s) and derivatives, in particular of styrene-acrylic film-forming polymer(s) and derivatives, and aqueous dispersions of polyurethane polymer(s), in particular of polyester-polyurethane polymer(s), and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof. o Additional film-forming polymer

The makeup composition may also comprise at least one additional film-forming polymer that is soluble in the makeup composition. According to one embodiment, the polymer(s) are liposoluble.

Lipophilic polymers that may especially be mentioned include copolymers resulting from the copolymerization of at least one vinyl ester and of at least one other monomer which may be an olefin, an alkyl vinyl ether or an allylic or methallylic ester, as described in patent application F A 22622303. As liposoluble film-forming polymers that may be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and especially copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C8 alkyl radical, for instance ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C2 to C40 and better still C3 to C20 alkene. As examples of VP copolymers that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymers of VP/vinyl acetate, VP/ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP/ethyl methacrylate/methacrylic acid, VP/eicosene, VP/hexadecene, VP/triacontene, VP/styrene or VP/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate.

Mention may also be made of block copolymers, and in particular of the styrene/ethylene-propylene diblock copolymer, such as the product sold under the name Kraton G1701 EU SQR 1111 by the company Kraton Polymers.

The liposoluble film-forming polymer may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the makeup composition.

According to another embodiment, the polymer(s) are water-sol

Examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers that may be mentioned include: - proteins, for instance proteins of plant origin such as wheat proteins and soybean proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins;

- cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, and also quaternized cellulose derivatives;

- acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates;

- vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;

- anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers;

- gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, acacia gum;

- alginates and carrageenans;

- glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof;

- deoxyribonucleic acid;

- mucopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfates;

- and mixtures thereof.

The water-soluble film-forming polymer may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 8% by weight and better still from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the makeup composition. fatty phase

The makeup composition comprises a fatty phase.

The content of fatty phase in the makeup composition varies according to the formulation of the makeup composition (emulsion, anhydrous, etc.).

According to a first embodiment, the film-forming polymer is dispersed in aqueous medium. According to this embodiment, the makeup composition may comprise a fatty phase in a content of less than or equal to 40% by weight and preferably less than or equal to 30% relative to the total weight of the makeup composition.

According to a second embodiment, the film-forming polymer is dispersed in anhydrous medium. According to this embodiment, the makeup composition comprises from 0 to 98% by weight, preferably from 5% to 98% by weight and better still from 20% to 85% by weight of fatty phase relative to the total weight of the makeup composition.

The fatty phase may comprise at least one wax and/or at least one oil. o Waxes

The makeup composition may comprise at least one wax.

The term "wax" means a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change in state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 200°C and especially up to 120°C.

Within the context of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments. The measuring protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from - 20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and it is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature increase, the melting point (m.p.) of the wax is measured, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in the melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

- AHf: the heat of fusion of the wax, corresponding to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained. This heat of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to make the compound change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

According to one embodiment, the makeup composition comprises at least one wax in a content ranging from 0 to 30% by weight of wax(es), relative to the total weight of the makeup composition, especially from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably 10% to 30% by weight and more particularly 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the makeup composition.

According to one embodiment, the makeup composition comprises at least one wax in a content of at least 80% by weight and preferably in a content of at least 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

The wax(es) may be hydrocarbon-based waxes, fluoro waxes and/or silicone waxes and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.

The term "hydrocarbon-based" means mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.

Among the waxes of animal origin, mention may be made of beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect wax. Among the waxes of plant origin, mention may be made of rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork fibre wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, sumach wax and cotton wax. Among the waxes of mineral origin, mention may be made of paraffins, microcrystalline waxes, montan waxes and ozokerites.

Among the waxes of synthetic origin, use may be made especially of polyolefin waxes and especially polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, waxy copolymers and also esters thereof, and silicone waxes.

As examples of waxes, mention may be made especially of carnauba wax, candelilla wax, the wax Bis- PEG-12 Dimethicone Candelillate, for instance Siliconyl Candelilla Wax sold by the company Koster Keunen, hydrogenated jojoba wax, for instance the product sold by the company Desert Whale, hydrogenated palm oil such as the product sold by the company SIO, rice bran wax, sumach wax, ceresin waxes, laurel wax, Chinese insect wax, shellac wax, hydrogenated olive oil such as Waxolive from the company Soliance, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with C12 to C18 fatty-chain alcohols, such as the products sold by the company Sophim under the trade names Phytowax Olive 12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl or behenyl alcohol, for instance the products sold under the names Phytowax icin 16L64 and Phytowax Ricin 22L73 by the company Sophim, hydrogenated camellina wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, ozokerite waxes, for instance Wax SP 1020 P sold by the company Strahl & Pitsch, microcrystalline waxes, for instance the product sold under the trade name Microwax HW by the company Paramelt, lauric, palmitic, cetylic and stearic acid triglycerides (INCI name: hydrogenated cocoyl glycerides), for instance the product sold under the trade name Softisan 100 by the company Sasol, polymethylene waxes, for instance the product sold under the trade name Cirebelle 303 by the company Sasol, polyethylene waxes, for instance the products sold under the trade names Performalene 400 polyethylene, Performalene 655 polyethylene and Performalene 500- L polyethylene by the company New Phase Technologies, alcohol-polyethylene waxes, for instance the product sold under the name Performacol 425 Alcohol by the company Bareco, the 95/5 ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer sold under the trade name Wax AC 540 by the company Honeywell, hydroxyoctacosanyl hydroxystearate, for instance the product sold under the trade name Elfacos C 26 by the company Akzo, octacosanyl stearate, for instance the product sold under the name Kester Wax K 82 H by the company Koster Keunen, stearyl stearate, for instance the product sold under the name Liponate SS by the company Lipo Chemicals, pentaerythrityl distearate, for instance the product sold under the name Cutina PES by the company Cognis, the mixture of dibehenyl adipate, dioctadecyl adipate and dieicosanyl adipate (INCI name: C18-22 dialkyl adipate), the mixture of dilauryl adipate and ditetradecyl adipate (INCI name: C12-14 dialkyl adipate), the mixture of dioctadecyl sebacate, didocosyl sebacate and dieicosyl sebacate (INCI name: C18-22 dialkyl sebacate), the mixture of dioctadecyl octadecanedioate, didocosyl octanedioate and dieicosyl octanedioate (INCI name: C18-22 dialkyl octanedioate), for instance the products sold by the company Cognis, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, for instance Liponate PS-4 from the company Lipo Chemicals, tetracontanyl stearate, for instance Kester Wax K76 H from the company Koster Keunen, stearyl benzoate, for instance Finsolv 116 from the company Finetex, behenyl fumarate, for instance Marrix 222 from the company Akzo Bernel, bis(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, for instance the product offered under the name Hest 2T-4S by the company Heterene, didotriacontanyl distearate, for instance Kester Wax K82D from the company Koster Keunen, polyethylene glycol montanate containing 4 oxyethylene units (PEG-4), for instance the product sold under the trade name Clariant Licowax KST1, hexanediol disalicylate, for instance Betawax RX-13750 sold by the company CP Hall, dipentaerythrityl hexastearate, for instance the product sold under the trade name Hest 2P-6S by the company Heterene, ditrimethylolpropane tetrabehenate, for instance the product sold under the trade name Hest 2T-4B by the company Heterene, jojoba esters, for instance the product sold under the trade name Floraester HIP by the company Floratech, mixtures of linear carboxylic acid (C20-40)/saturated hydrocarbons (INCI name: C20-40 acid polyethylene), for instance Performacid 350 acid from the company New Phase Technologies, synthetic wax of Fischer-Tropsch type, such as the product sold under the reference osswax 100 by the company Ross, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, dioctadecyl carbonate, for instance Cutina KE 3737, sucrose polybehenate, for instance Crodaderm B from the company Croda, and mixtures thereof.

Use may also be made of the waxes mentioned above in the form of commercially available mixtures, for example under the names Koster KPC-56 (mixture of 87.5% by weight of cetyl stearate, 7.5% by weight of behenyl alcohol and 5% by weight of palm kernel glycerides), KPC-60 (mixture of 87.5% by weight of stearyl stearate, 7.5% by weight of behenyl alcohol and 5% by weight of palm kernel glycerides), KPC-63 (mixture of 87.5% by weight of behenyl stearate, 7.5% by weight of behenyl alcohol and 5% by weight of palm kernel glycerides) and KPC-80 (mixture of 86% by weight of synthetic beeswax, 7.5% of hydrogenated plant oil and 6.5% by weight of behenyl alcohol) from the company Koster Keunen.

Use is preferably made of waxes of plant origin such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sumach wax, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with C12 to C18 fatty-chain alcohols sold by the company Sophim in the Phytowax range (12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57), rice bran wax, stearyl and behenyl alcohols, laurel wax or ouricury wax. o oils

The makeup composition may contain at least one volatile or non-volatile oil.

The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C).

According to a first embodiment, the makeup composition comprises at least one film-forming polymer dispersed in aqueous medium. In this case, the composition according to the invention is preferably free of oil. However, the total content of oil(s) in a composition in accordance with the invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 8% by weight and preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a second embodiment, the makeup composition comprises at least one film-forming polymer dispersed in anhydrous medium. In this case, the composition according to the invention comprises a content of oil ranging from 5% to 98% by weight and especially from 20% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

^■ Non-volatile oil

The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and pressure. More precisely, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm²/min.

To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or of oil mixture to be tested are placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in diameter, which is placed on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 m³ that is temperature-regulated, at a temperature of 25°C, and hygrometry-regulated, at a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit of area (cm²) and per unit of time (minutes).

The non-volatile oil(s) may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably from hydrocarbon-based oils. The non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that are suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen in particular from:

- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C28, these fatty acids possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, beauty-leaf oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame seed oil, marrow oil, colza oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil and musk rose oil; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810^®, 812^® and 818^® by the company Sasol;

- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polybutenes, polydecenes and squalane;

- synthetic esters such as the oils of formula 1COO 2 in which Rl represents the linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents an in particular branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that Rl + R2 > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, C12 to C15 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2- octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, isostearyl isostearate, alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate; lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid esters; glyceryl or diglyceryl triisostearate; and pentaerythritol esters;

- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance cetanol, octyldodecanol, stearyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol; - fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid; and

- mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile silicone oils that are suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen in particular from non-volatile cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; and mixtures thereof.

A composition according to the invention optionally comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon- based oil of plant origin, such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C28, in particular palm oil and hydrogenated jojoba oil. A composition according to the invention is preferably free of non-volatile silicone oil(s). According to a first embodiment, the makeup composition comprises at least one film-forming polymer dispersed in aqueous medium. In this case, the composition according to the invention is preferably free of non-volatile oil. However, the total content of non-volatile oil(s) in a composition in accordance with the invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 8% by weight and preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of non-volatile oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a second embodiment, the makeup composition comprises at least one film-forming polymer dispersed in anhydrous medium. In this case, the composition according to the invention comprises a content of non-volatile oil ranging from 0 to 80% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 80% by weight and better still from 1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

^■ Volatile oil

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil.

The term "volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm²/min, limits included.

The non-volatile oil(s) may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 7 to 16 carbon atoms.

The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from branched alkanes and linear alkanes. As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 7 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made especially of branched C8-C16 alkanes, for instance C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), liquid paraffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C16 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms is chosen from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, and is in particular isododecane.

As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used for the purposes of the present invention, mention may be made of linear alkanes, preferably of plant origin, comprising from 7 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.

As examples of linear alkanes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in patent applications WO 2007/068 371 or WO 2008/155 059 by the company Cognis (mixtures of distinct alkanes that differ by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from copra oil or palm oil. As examples of linear alkanes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of n- heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (CIO), n-undecane (Cll), n-dodecane (C12), n- tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14) and n-pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n-undecane (Cll) and n-tridecane (C13) described in Example 1 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 by the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references, respectively, Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof.

The linear alkane may be used alone or as a mixture of at least two distinct alkanes that differ from each other by a carbon number of at least 1, and in particular a mixture of at least two linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 distinct carbon atoms that differ from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of C11/C13 volatile linear alkanes or a mixture of C12/C14 linear alkanes, in particular an n-undecane/n-tridecane mixture (such a mixture may be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155 059).

As a variant or additionally, the composition prepared may comprise at least one volatile silicone oil or solvent that is compatible with cosmetic use. The term "volatile silicone oil" means a volatile oil containing at least one silicon atom, and especially containing Si-0 groups.

Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include cyclic polysiloxanes and linear polysiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. Volatile linear polysiloxanes that may be mentioned include hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane. Volatile cyclic polysiloxanes that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

As a variant or additionally, the composition prepared may comprise at least one volatile fluoro oil.

The term "fluoro oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom. Volatile fluoro oils that may be mentioned include nonafluoromethoxybutane and perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a first embodiment, the makeup composition comprises at least one film-forming polymer dispersed in aqueous medium. According to this embodiment, the makeup composition is preferably free of non-volatile oil. However, at least one volatile oil may be present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the makeup composition. Advantageously, the composition comprises less than 5% by weight of volatile oil(s) relative to the total weight of the makeup composition. Advantageously, the composition comprises less than 10% by weight of volatile silicone oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, better still less than 5% by weight, or even is free of silicone oil.

According to a second embodiment, the makeup composition comprises at least one film-forming polymer dispersed in anhydrous medium. In this embodiment, the makeup composition may comprise a content of volatile oil(s) ranging from 5% to 97.99% by weight and preferably from 30% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. - aqueous phase

The makeup composition may comprise an aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase comprises water. It may also comprise at least one water-soluble solvent.

The term "water-soluble solvent" means a solvent that is miscible with water at 25°C.

Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the makeup composition, mention may be made especially of monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol and butanol, and glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.

According to a first embodiment, the makeup composition comprises a film-forming polymer dispersed in aqueous medium. The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) is then present in the makeup composition according to the present patent application in a content ranging from 30% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the makeup composition, and preferably ranging from 40% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the makeup composition. This content of aqueous phase includes not only the water deliberately added to the composition, but also the water originating from the aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymers. According to a second embodiment, the makeup composition comprises a film-forming polymer that is soluble in anhydrous medium. In this case, the makeup composition is anhydrous and contains less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% water relative to its total weight of the makeup composition, and especially a water-free composition.

Solids content The makeup composition in accordance with the invention advantageously comprises a total solids content of greater than or equal to 35%, in particular 45% and preferentially 50%. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solids content" denotes the content of nonvolatile matter.

The solids content (abbreviated as SC) of a composition according to the invention is measured using a Halogen Moisture Analyser H 73 commercial halogen desiccator from Mettler Toledo. The measurement is performed on the basis of the weight loss of a sample dried by halogen heating, and thus represents the percentage of residual matter once the water and the volatile matter have evaporated off.

This technique is fully described in the machine documentation supplied by Mettler Toledo.

The measuring protocol is as follows: 2 g of the composition, referred to hereinbelow as the sample, are spread out on a metal crucible, which is placed in the halogen desiccator mentioned above. The sample is then subjected to a temperature of 105°C until a constant weight is obtained. The wet mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the dry mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, are measured using a precision balance.

The experimental error associated with the measurement is of the order of plus or minus 2%. The solids content is calculated in the following manner:

Solids content (expressed as % by weight) = 100 ^χ (dry mass/wet mass)

Filler

The makeup composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler.

The fillers may represent from 0.1% to 15% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the makeup composition.

The filler(s) are selected from those that are well known to a person skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers may be mineral or organic, and lamellar or spherical.

Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders, for instance Nylon^® sold under the name Orgasol^® by the company Atochem, poly^-alanine powders and polyethylene powders, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers, for instance Teflon^®, lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance the products sold under the name Expancel^® by the company Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders such as those sold under the name Polytrap^® by the company Dow Corning, polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls^® from Toshiba), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads^® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate and magnesium myristate, aerogel particles, for example those sold under the name VM- 2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning, those sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova Aerogel MT 1100, Enova Aerogel MT 1200, or those sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning. According to a particular embodiment, the filler(s) are chosen from aerogel particles, and are preferably present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the makeup composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the filler(s) are chosen from the aerogel particles sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning, and are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the makeup composition.

Dyestuff

The makeup composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one dyestuff. This (or these) dyestuff(s) are preferably chosen from pulverulent dyestuffs, liposoluble dyes and water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the makeup composition according to the invention comprises at least one pulverulent dyestuff. The pulverulent dyestuff(s) may be chosen from pigments and nacres, preferably from pigments.

The pigments may be white or coloured, mineral and/or organic, and coated or uncoated. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxide, and also iron, titanium or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments that may be mentioned are carbon black, pigments of D&C type and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium.

Preferably, the pigments contained in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from metal oxides.

The nacres may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow and annatto.

These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight, better still from 1% to 20% by weight and even better still from 3% to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the makeup composition.

Preferably, the dyestuffs are chosen from pulverulent materials and are preferably present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight and better still from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the makeup composition. Preferably, the dyestuff(s) are chosen from one or more metal oxides that are present in a content of greater than or equal to 2% by weight and advantageously inclusively between 3% and 22% by weight relative to the total weight of the makeup composition. gelling agent

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agent.

Hydrophilic gelling agents The compositions according to the present invention may also contain at least one hydrophilic, or water-soluble, gelling agent, which may be chosen from:

- acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers or the salts thereof and esters thereof and in particular the products sold under the names Versicol F^® or Versicol K^® by the company Allied Colloid, Ultrahold 8^® by the company Ciba-Geigy, and polyacrylic acids of Synthalen K type,

- copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of the sodium salt thereof under the names eten^® by the company Hercules, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name Hydagen F^® by the company Henkel,

- polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers of Pemulen type, - AMPS (polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid partially neutralized with aqueous ammonia and highly crosslinked) sold by the company Clariant,

- AMPS/acrylamide copolymers of Sepigel^® or Simulgel^® type sold by the company SEPPIC, and

- AMPS/polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or non-crosslinked), and mixtures thereof. - associative polymers and in particular associative polyurethanes such as the C16-OE120-C16 polymer from the company Elementis (sold under the name Rheolate FX1100, this molecule bearing a urethane function and having a weight-average molecular weight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylene unit, Rheolate 205 bearing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or also Rheolate 208 or 204 (these polymers being sold in pure form) or DW 1206B from Rohm & Haas bearing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at 20% active material in water. It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these associative polyurethanes, especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned include Rheolate FX1010, Rheolate FX1035, Rheolate 1070, Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company Elementis. It is also possible to use the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J, and also Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from the company Rohm & Haas, or alternatively Borchigel LW 44 from the company Borchers,

- and mixtures thereof.

Some water-soluble film-forming polymers also act as water-soluble gelling agent. The hydrophilic gelling agents may be present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Lipophilic gelling agents

A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic or liposoluble gelling agent.

The gelling agent(s) that may be used may be organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents.

Mineral lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include clays, modified clays, such as Bentone 38 VCG by the company Elementis, and optionally hydrophobically surface-treated fumed silica.

The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or completely crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as the products sold under the names KSG6^®, KSG16^® and KSG18^® by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C^® and Trefil E-506C^® by the company Dow Corning, Gransil S -CYC^®, SR DMF10^®, SR-DC556^®, SR 5CYC gel^®, SR DMF 10 gel^® and SR DC 556 gel^® by the company Grant Industries and SF 1204^® and JK 113^® by the company General Electric; ethyl cellulose, such as the product sold under the name Ethocel^® by the company Dow Chemical; polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between (a) at least one acid chosen from dicarboxylic acids containing at least 32 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid dimers, and (b) an alkylenediamine and in particular ethylenediamine, in which the polyamide polymer comprises at least one carboxylic acid end group esterified or amidated with at least one saturated and linear monoalcohol or monoamine containing from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and in particular ethylenediamine/stearyl dilinoleate copolymers such as the product sold under the name Uniclear 100 VG^® by the company Arizona Chemical; silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5 919 441, US-A-6 051 216 and US- A-5 981 680, for instance the products sold under the references Dow Corning 2-8179 and Dow Corning 2-8178 Gellant by the company Dow Corning. Block copolymers of "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type, of the polystyrene/polyisoprene or polystyrene/polybutadiene type, such as the products sold under the name Luvitol HSB^® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-propylene) type, such as the products sold under the name Kraton^® by the company Shell Chemical Co., or of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene) type, and mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those sold by the company Penreco under the name Versagel^®, for instance the mixture of butylene/ethylene/styrene triblock copolymer and of ethylene/propylene/styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer as lipophilic gelling agent. Among the lipophilic gelling agents that may also be mentioned are organogelling agents. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises hydroxyethylcellulose as gelling agent. thickener

The composition according to the invention may also comprise a thickener for the liquid fatty phase. The thickener may be chosen from organomodified clays, which are clays treated with compounds chosen especially from quaternary amines and tertiary amines. Organomodified clays that may be mentioned include organomodified bentonites, such as the product sold under the name Bentone 34 by the company heox, and organomodified hectorites such as the products sold under the names Bentone 27 and Bentone 38 by the company Rheox.

Use may also be made of treated silicas and liposoluble alkylated guar gums. The thickener may be present in a content allowing the desired viscosity to be adjusted. It may especially be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the makeup composition.

Emulsifying system

A composition according to the invention may comprise an emulsifying system. This emulsifying system is capable of dispersing the wax particles and optionally the film-forming polymer particles. However, the film-forming polymer particles may have their own emulsifying system.

More precisely, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB value, in the Griffin sense, at 25°C, of greater than or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10.

The Griffin HLB (hydrophilic/lipophilic balance) value is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. Reference may be made to Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, volume 22, pages 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the emulsifying properties and functions of surfactants, in particular pages 347-377 of this reference. The nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value, in the Griffin sense, at 25°C, of greater than or equal to 8 may be chosen from:

- preferably oxyalkylenated, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers, which may comprise from 10 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units;

- oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated alcohols, which may comprise from 7 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, preferably from 20 to

100 oxyethylene units, in particular ethoxylated C8-C24 and preferably C12-C18 fatty alcohols such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol comprising 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name: Steareth-20) such as Brij 78 sold by the company Uniqema, or ethoxylated cetearyl alcohol comprising 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name: Ceteareth-30) and the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name: C12-15 Pareth-7), for instance the product sold under the name Neodol 25-7^® by Shell Chemicals;

- esters of a fatty acid , especially a C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 fatty acid, and of polyethylene glycol (or PEG) (which may comprise from 10 to 150 oxyethylene units), such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate sold under the name Myrj 52P^® by the company Uniqema;

- esters of a fatty acid, especially a C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 fatty acid, and of preferably oxyalkylenated, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may comprise from 10 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units), for instance glyceryl monostearate polyoxyethylenated with 200 oxyethylene units, sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM^® by the company SEPPIC; glyceryl stearate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat S^® sold by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl oleate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat O^® sold by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl cocoate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Varionic LI 13^® sold by the company Sherex, glyceryl isostearate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat L^® sold by the company Goldschmidt, and glyceryl laurate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat I^® from the company Goldschmidt;

- esters of a fatty acid, especially a C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 fatty acid, and of preferably oxyalkylenated, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may comprise from 10 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units), for instance polysorbate 60 sold under the name Tween 60^® by the company Uniqema; - and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, a makeup composition may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB value, in the Griffin sense, at 25°C, of greater than or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10, chosen from oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol ethers. Specifically, in general, surfactants with a branched polar head are particularly effective as emulsifying system according to the invention.

A makeup composition according to the invention preferably has a content of nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value, in the Griffin sense, at 25°C, of greater than or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10, of greater than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 4% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

A makeup composition according to the invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB value, in the Griffin sense, at 25°C, of greater than or equal to 8. This (these) surfactant(s) may be chosen from:

- nonionic surfactants having at 25°C an HLB balance, in the Griffin sense, of less than 8, chosen from: o saccharide esters and ethers; o esters of fatty acids, especially of C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 acids, and of polyol, especially of glycerol or sorbitol, preferably of glycerol; o oxyalkylenated alcohols comprising less than 10 oxyalkylene units, especially less than 5 oxyalkylene units, in particular oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units; o and mixtures thereof; anionic surfactants preferably having at 25°C an HLB value of greater than or equal to 8, chosen from: o alkyl phosphates; o alkyl sulfates, and in particular alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates and monoglyceride sulfates; o alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; o alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates and alkylamidesulfosuccinates; o alkyl sulfosuccinamates; o alkylsulfoacetates; o acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, acylisethionates, N-acyltaurates and acyllactylates; o carboxylic alkylpolyglycoside esters such as alkylglucoside citrates, alkylpolyglycoside tartrates, alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates and alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinamates; and o fatty acids, and salts thereof, in particular oleic acid, ricinoleic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid salts, copra oil acid or hydrogenated copra oil acid; o alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids and salts thereof, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups; o and mixtures thereof; preferably from fatty acid salts.

The nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value, in the Griffin sense, at 25°C, of greater than or equal to 8 may be present in a total content of greater than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably ranging from 1.5% to 8% by weight and better still from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the makeup composition.

Moreover, the emulsifying system may comprise one or more co-surfactants chosen from fatty alcohols comprising from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The makeup composition may also comprise adjuvants commonly used in the field of cosmetics, such as sequestrants (for example EDTA), fragrances, preserving agents and active agents. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the makeup composition. MAKEUP-REMOVING COMPOSITION

The makeup-removing composition may be in the form of an optionally two-phase lotion, a milk, a cream, an oil, a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, an anhydrous composition, or alternatively a gel. Preferably, the makeup-removing composition is an anhydrous composition. Fatty phase

The makeup-removing cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least 20% by weight of fatty phase, relative to the total weight of the makeup-removing composition, preferably at least 25% by weight, preferentially at least 30% by weight and more preferentially at least 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the makeup-removing composition.

The fatty phase comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based oil with a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter 8_a ranging from 2 to 15 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}. The fatty phase may also comprise at least one additional oil. The other lipophilic constituents that may be present in the fatty phase are, for example, waxes, gums, silicone resins and pastes, and mixtures thereof. Oil according to the invention

Preferably, the oil(s) included in the makeup-removing composition are chosen from hydrocarbon- based oils.

Preferably, a hydrocarbon-based oil according to the invention has a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter 8_a ranging from 2 to 15 J° Van^{1 5}.

Preferably, the makeup-removing composition comprises a mixture of hydrocarbon-based oils according to the invention, with a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter 8_a ranging from 2 to 15 J° an^{1 5}.

The makeup-removing composition comprises hydrocarbon-based oil(s) with a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter 8_a ranging from 2 to 15 J° Vein^1'5 in a content strictly greater than 15% by weight of hydrocarbon-based oil(s), relative to the total weight of the makeup-removing composition, preferably at least 16% by weight, more preferentially at least 18% by weight, even more preferentially at least 20% by weight and preferably in a content ranging from 40% to 95% and better still from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the makeup-removing composition. The makeup-removing composition comprises hydrocarbon-based oil(s) with a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter 8_a ranging from 2 to 15 J° Vein^1'5 in a content strictly greater than 15% by weight of hydrocarbon-based oil(s), relative to the total weight of the fatty phase, preferably at least 16% by weight, more preferentially at least 18% by weight, even more preferentially at least 20% by weight and preferably in a content ranging from 40% to 95% and better still from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

The oil(s) according to the invention may be volatile or non-volatile. The oil(s) according to the invention, with a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter 8_a ranging from 2 to 15 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}, may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, and especially from hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, synthetic esters and ethers, natural or synthetic essential oils, fatty alcohols, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, preferably from fatty alcohols, synthetic (poly)esters and (poly)ethers, and in particular from (poly)ethers of 8 to 40 carbon atoms and synthetic (poly)esters, preferably such as the oils of formula RiCOOR₂ in which R_x represents an acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R₂ represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and optionally comprising an amide or hydroxyl group. Among the hydrocarbon-based oils with a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter 8_a ranging from 2 to 15 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}, mention may be made of dicaprylyl ether (8_a = 3.45 J°-⁵/cm¹-⁵), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (δ₃ = 4.2 J^/cm^{1 5}), cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate (δ₃ = 4.2 J°-⁵/cm¹-⁵), octyldodecyl neopentanoate (8_a = 4.2 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}), isostearyl neopentanoate (8_a = 4.3 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}), isostearyl benzoate (8_a = 4.4 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}), isononanoate tridecyl (8_a = 4.4 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}), isopropyl stearate (δ₃ = 4.5 J°-⁵/cm¹-⁵), isopropyl isostearate (δ₃ = 4.5 J°-⁵/cm¹-⁵), isopropyl palmitate (δ₃ = 4.7 J°-⁵/cm¹-⁵), isononyl isononanoate (8_a = 4.87 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}), C12-15 alkyl benzoate (8_a = 4.9 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}), isopropyl myristate (8_a = 5.0 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}), 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate (8_a = 5.2 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}), isodecyl neopentanoate (8_a = 5.3 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}), 2-ethylhexyl benzoate (8_a = 5.9 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}), caprylyl carbonate (8_a = 6.0 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}) sold under the name Cetiol CC by Cognis, dioctyl (2-ethylhexyl) carbonate (8_a = 6.0 J° 7cm^{1 5}), diethylhexyl adipate (δ₃ = 6.2 J^{0 5}/cm^{1 5}), octadecyl 5-oxo-L-prolinate (δ₃ = 6.2 J^{0 5}/cm^{1 5}), propylene glycol dipelargonate (8_a = 6.4 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}), neopentyl glycol dicaprate (8_a = 6.4 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}), dicaprylyl maleate (8_a = 6.6 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}), propylene glycol dioctanoate (8_a = 6.7 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}), dodecyl 1- butyl-5-oxopyrrolidine-3-carboxylate (8_a = 7.1 J^{0 5}/cm^{1 5}), 2,4-methyl-1.5-pentanediol dineopentanoate (8_a = 7.3 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}), 2-octyldodecanol (8_a = 7.7 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}), isostearyl alcohol (8_a = 8.1 J° 7cm^{1 5}), oleyl alcohol (δ₃ = 8.2 J° 7cm^{1 5}), diisopropyl adipate (δ₃ = 8.31 J° 7cm^{1 5}), diisobutyl adipate (δ₃ = 8.31 J° 7cm^{1 5}), hexyldecanol (δ₃ = 8.6 J° 7cm^{1 5}), 2-propanyl l-(2-ethylhexyl)-5-oxopyrrolidine-3- carboxylate (8_a = 8.6 J°7cm^{1 5}), propylene glycol monoisostearate (8_a = 8.7 J° 7cm^{1 5}), isostearyl lactate (δ₃ = 8.7 J° 7cm^{1 5}), butyl l-butyl-5-oxopyrrolidine-3-carboxylate (δ₃ = 9.4 J° 7cm^{1 5}), 2- butyloctanol (δ₃ = 9.8 J° 7cm^{1 5}), C12-C13 alkyl lactate (δ₃ = 10.1 J° 7cm^{1 5}), dimethylisosorbide (δ₃ = 10.76 J° 7cm^{1 5}), tributyl citrate (δ₃ = 11.41 J° 7cm^{1 5}), triethyl citrate (δ₃ = 13.7 J° 7cm^{1 5}), phenylethyl alcohol (8_a = 14.0 J° 7cm^{1 5}), PEG-8 (polyethylene glycol containing 8 ethylene glycol units) (8_a = 14.8 J°7cm^{1 5}), and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the makeup-removing composition comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based oil according to the invention, with a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter 8_a ranging from 2 to 15 J° 7cm¹7 said oil preferably being chosen from synthetic ethers and esters, and preferably from dicaprylyl ether (8_a = 3.45), isononyl isononanoate (8_a = 4.87), isodecyl neopentanoate (8_a = 5.3), diisobutyl adipate (8_a = 8.31), diisopropyl adipate (8_a = 8.31), dimethylisosorbide (8_a = 10.76), tributyl citrate (8_a = 11.41), and mixtures thereof, and in a content strictly greater than 20% by weight of hydrocarbon-based oil(s), relative to the total weight of the makeup-removing composition, preferably at least 25% by weight, more preferentially at least 30% by weight, even more preferentially at least 40% by weight, and preferably in a content ranging from 40% to 100% and better still from 40% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the makeup-removing composition. According to a particular embodiment, the makeup-removing composition comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based oil according to the invention, with a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter 8_a ranging from 2 to 15 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}, said oil preferably being chosen from synthetic ethers and esters, and preferably from dicaprylyl ether (8_a = 3.45), isononyl isononanoate (8_a = 4.87), isodecyl neopentanoate (8_a = 5.3), diisobutyl adipate (8_a = 8.31), diisopropyl adipate (8_a = 8.31), dimethylisosorbide (8_a = 10.76), tributyl citrate (8_a = 11.41), and mixtures thereof, and in a content strictly greater than 20% by weight of hydrocarbon-based oil(s), relative to the total weight of the fatty phase, preferably at least 25% by weight, more preferentially at least 30% by weight, even more preferentially at least 40% by weight, and preferably in a content ranging from 40% to 100% and better still from 40% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

According to a preferred embodiment, the oil(s) included in the makeup-removing composition are chosen from oils with a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter 8_a preferably ranging from 3.5 to 15 J° Van^{1 5}, more preferentially from 5 to 12 J° an^{1 5}. According to a preferred embodiment, the oil according to the invention included in the makeup- removing composition is dimethyl isosorbide.

According to a preferred embodiment, the oil according to the invention included in the makeup- removing composition is diisopropyl adipate.

According to a preferred embodiment, the oil according to the invention included in the makeup- removing composition is diisobutyl adipate.

According to a preferred embodiment, the oil according to the invention included in the makeup- removing composition is tributyl citrate.

Additional oils

The makeup-removing composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional oil.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "additional oil" means an oil with a molecular weight strictly greater than 400 g/mol, or an oil with a solubility parameter 8_a strictly less than 2 J° Van^1'5 or strictly greater than 15 J° Vein^1'5, or an oil with a molecular weight strictly greater than 400 g/mol and with a solubility parameter 8_a strictly less than 2 J° Vein^1'5 or strictly greater than 15

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the makeup-removing composition comprises at least one oil with a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter 8_a ranging from 2 to 15 J° Van^{1 5} and at least one additional oil.

The makeup-removing composition may comprise one or more additional oils in a content of greater than or equal to 25% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 25% to 60% by weight and more particularly ranging from 35% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the makeup- removing composition. The makeup-removing composition may comprise one or more additional oils in a content of greater than or equal to 25% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 25% to 60% by weight and more particularly ranging from 35% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

The makeup-removing composition comprises a total content of oil(s) according to the invention and of additional oil(s) of greater than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 60% to 100% by weight and more particularly ranging from 65% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the makeup-removing composition.

The makeup-removing composition comprises a total content of oil(s) according to the invention and of additional oil(s) of greater than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 60% to 100% by weight and more particularly ranging from 65% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

According to one embodiment, the oil(s) according to the invention, with a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter 8_a ranging from 2 to 15 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}, and the additional oil(s) are present in a respective weight content such that the ratio of the total content of oil(s) according to the invention to the total content of additional oil(s) ranges from 0.25 to 1 and in particular from 0.4 to 0.9.

The additional oil(s) may be volatile or non-volatile.

The additional oil(s) may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils and fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof. Among the hydrocarbon-based oils, mention may be made of:

- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from

4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil (8_a = 4.8 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}), corn oil, soybean oil (8_a = 4.86 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}), marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil (8_a = 4.85 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}), hazelnut oil, apricot oil (8_a =

4.8 J°-⁵/cm¹-⁵), macadamia oil (δ₃ = 4.9 f^/cm¹³), arara oil (δ₃ = 3.4 J°-⁵/cm¹-⁵), castor oil (δ₃ = 9.1 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}), avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil (8_a = 3.3 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}) and shea butter oil; - synthetic esters and ethers, especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formulae 1COO 2 and R10R2 in which Rl represents a fatty acid residue containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance Purcellin oil, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, for instance octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate or triisocetyl citrate; fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates such as octyldodecyl octanoate; polyol esters, for instance propylene glycol diisostearate; and pentaerythritol esters, for instance pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, isohexadecane, isododecane, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam^® oil, and squalane;

- natural or synthetic essential oils, for instance eucalyptus oil, hybrid lavender oil, lavender oil, vetiver oil, litsea cubeba oil, lemon oil, sandalwood oil, rosemary oil, camomile oil, savory oil, nutmeg oil, cinnamon oil, hyssop oil, caraway oil, orange oil, geraniol oil, cade oil and bergamot oil;

- fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol,

2-undecylpentadecanol or linoleyl alcohol; - and mixtures thereof.

Among the silicone oils, mention may be made of:

- silicone oils, for instance volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) bearing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, especially cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

- and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the makeup-removing composition comprises less than 10% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the makeup composition, and more particularly the makeup-removing composition is free of silicone oil. Among the fluoro oils, mention may be made of nonafluoromethoxybutane and perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the makeup-removing composition comprises at least one additional oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, and in particular from linear or branched hydrocarbons, synthetic esters, especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formula iCOO ₂ in which i represents a fatty acid residue comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R₂ represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from hydrocarbons, and preferably in a content of greater than or equal to 25% by weight, more particularly from 25% to 60% by weight, more particularly from 35% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the makeup-removing composition. According to a particular embodiment, the makeup-removing composition comprises at least one additional oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, and in particular from linear or branched hydrocarbons, synthetic esters, especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formula RiCOOR₂ in which Ri represents a fatty acid residue comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R₂ represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably in a content of greater than or equal to 25% by weight, more particularly from 25% to 60% by weight, more particularly from 35% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

According to a particular embodiment, the makeup-removing composition comprises at least one additional oil chosen from paraffin and isododecane, and mixtures thereof, and preferably in a content greater than or equal to 25% by weight, preferably ranging from 25% to 60% by weight and more particularly from 35% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the makeup-removing composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the makeup-removing composition comprises at least one additional oil chosen from paraffin and isododecane, and mixtures thereof, and preferably in a content greater than or equal to 25% by weight, preferably ranging from 25% to 60% by weight and more particularly from 35% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

According to a particular embodiment, the additional oil is paraffin.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase, preferably in a content of less than or equal to 80% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 10% to 60% by weight and more particularly ranging from 10% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the makeup- removing composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the makeup-removing composition is an anhydrous composition and comprises less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition is preferably free of water.

The aqueous phase may comprise water and optionally at least one water-soluble solvent.

A natural spring water or mineral water may be used, and is then chosen from Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-Bains water and Avene water. It is also possible to use seawaters such as Dead Sea water or seabed water.

Among the water-soluble solvents, mention may be made especially of water-soluble alcohols comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol, and mixtures thereof. When they are present in the makeup-removing composition, the water-soluble alcohol(s) comprising 1 to 8 carbon atoms are present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase. In certain cases, it is preferable for the composition to be free of water-soluble alcohol containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms, especially for removing makeup from the eyes. The aqueous phase may also comprise at least one polyol (or poly hydrogen alcohol), such as glycerol; glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, and polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8; sorbitol; sugars such as glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose and sucrose; and mixtures thereof. The amount of polyol(s) may range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight and particularly from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

Adjuvants

The makeup-removing composition may also contain any adjuvant or additive usually used. Among the adjuvants that may be contained in the aqueous phase and/or in the oily phase (depending on the water-soluble or liposoluble nature of the adjuvants), mention may be made especially of surfactants, preserving agents, antioxidants, fragrances, dyestuffs, matt-effect fillers, cosmetic active agents, thickeners, lipophilic or hydrophilic polymers, phase-separating agents and sequestrants (for example EDTA). The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one surfactant.

The amount of surfactant(s) may vary within a wide range, but is limited in practice for reasons of tolerance. It also depends on the galenical form of the composition (emulsion or other form). The composition may comprise one or more surfactants in a content of greater than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 1% to 5% by weight and more particularly ranging from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the makeup-removing composition.

The surfactant(s) may be amphoteric, nonionic, anionic and/or zwitterionic.

Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants that may be mentioned include:

- alkyl betaines, such as cocoyl betaine or lauryl betaine;

-alkylamphoacetates such as N-disodium N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N- carboxymethylethylenediamine (CTFA name: Disodium cocoamphodiacetate) sold as an aqueous saline solution under the name Miranol C2M Cone NP by the company hodia Chimie; N-sodium N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethylethylenediamine (CTFA name: sodium cocamphoacetate);

- cocamides such as the mixture of coconut acid diethanolamides (CTFA name: Cocamide DEA); - and mixtures thereof.

Nonionic surfactants that may especially be mentioned include:

- fatty acid esters of polyol, and in particular glyceryl esters of fatty acids, such as the fatty acid ester PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides sold by the company Sasol under the name Softigen 767; - oxyethylene oxypropylene block polymers such as Poloxamers and especially Poloxamer 184

(CTFA name);

- fatty acid esters of sorbitan and oxyethylenated derivatives thereof, such as sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate) sold by the company ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate) sold by the company ICI under the name Span 40, oxyethylenated sorbitan stearates, palmitates and oleates (CTFA name:

Polysorbate) sold by the company ICI under the names Tween, especially Polysorbate 60 (Tween 60), Polysorbate 65 (Tween 65) and Polysorbate 80 (Tween 80); - oxyethylenated ethers of dihydrocholesterol, such as Dihydrocholeth-15, Dihydrocholeth-20 and Dihydrocholeth-30;

- alkylpolyglycosides and especially alkylpolyglucosides (APG) bearing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms (C6-C30-alkyl polyglucosides) and preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms, for instance decyl glucoside (Alkyl-C9/Cll-polyglucoside), such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10 by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 UP or Plantacare 2000 UP by the company Cognis, and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10 by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110 by the company SEPPIC; lauryl glucoside, such as the products sold under the names Plantaren 1200 N and Plantacare 1200 by the company

Cognis; and cocoyl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 818/UP by the company Cognis;

- and mixtures thereof.

Anionic surfactants that may especially be mentioned include:

- alkyl sulfates and salts thereof;

- alkyl ether sulfates and salts thereof, especially the sodium salts thereof, for instance sodium trideceth sulfate, the mixture of sodium laureth sulfate/magnesium laureth sulfate/sodium laureth-8 sulfate/magnesium laureth-8 sulfate, sold under the name Texapon ASV by the company Cognis; sodium lauryl ether sulfate (70/30 C12-14) (2.2 OE) sold under the names Sipon AOS 225 or Texapon N702 Pate by the company Cognis; ammonium lauryl ether sulfate

(70/30 C12-14) (3 OE) sold under the name Sipon LEA 370 by the company Cognis; ammonium (C12-C14) alkyl ether (9 OE) sulfate sold under the name Rhodapex AB/20 by the company Rhodia Chimie;

- alkyl phosphates; - and mixtures thereof.

The makeup-removing composition may comprise at least one preserving agent.

Use may be made, as preserving agent, of any commonly used preserving agent, such as parabens, chlorhexidine digluconate or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

The makeup-removing composition may comprise at least one cosmetic active agent. As active agents that may be used in the compositions of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include antibacterial agents such as salicylic acid, octopirox, triclosan and triclocarban; essential oils; vitamins, for instance retinol (vitamin A), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), tocopherol (vitamin E), niacinamide (vitamin PP or B3), panthenol (vitamin B5) and derivatives thereof, for instance esters of these vitamins (palmitate, acetate, propionate), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosyl vitamin C or glucopyranosyl ascorbic acid (ascorbyl glucoside); coenzymes such as coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone and coenzyme R or biotin; protein hydrolysates; plant extracts and plankton extracts; and mixtures thereof. The makeup-removing composition may comprise at least one filler. The filler(s) may be chosen from the fillers defined above for the makeup composition.

The makeup-removing composition may also comprise at least one dyestuff, chosen especially from the dyestuffs defined previously. The makeup-removing composition may also comprise at least one liposoluble or water-soluble film- forming polymer. Such a film-forming polymer may be chosen from the additional film-forming polymers that may be used in the makeup composition, as detailed above.

The makeup-removing composition may also comprise at least one hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agent, which may be chosen from the gelling agents that may be used in the makeup composition, as defined above.

ASSEMBLY

The makeup-removing composition may be applied with the aid of any suitable support, which is especially capable of absorbing it, for example a fibrous makeup-removing disc, for example a woven or nonwoven, cotton wool, a flocked film, a sponge, a wipe, or a twisted or injection-moulded mascara application brush.

The makeup-removing composition may be contained in a container and taken up gradually each time makeup is removed. As a variant, the makeup-removing composition impregnates the support used for removing makeup, the support possibly being packaged, in this case, in leaktight packaging. After the makeup-removing composition has been used, it is possible for the keratin materials to be not rinsed. As a variant, they may be rinsed. The rinsing may be performed, for example, with running water, without addition of a soap.

MAKEUP-REMOVING PROCESS

One subject of the present invention is a process for removing makeup from keratin materials, preferably keratin fibres, and especially the eyelashes. The makeup-removing process according to the invention comprises, and preferably consists of, the following steps, which are preferably successive:

- application to the keratin materials, preferably keratin fibres, and especially the eyelashes, of the makeup composition as defined previously;

- application to the made-up keratin materials of the makeup-removing composition as defined previously.

USE OF THE MAKEUP-REMOVING COMPOSITION

The present invention also relates to the use of the makeup-removing composition as defined above for removing makeup from and/or for cleansing keratin materials, preferably keratin fibres and especially the eyelashes, made up with a makeup composition as defined above. Throughout the application, the wording "comprising one" or "containing one" means "comprising at least one" or "containing at least one", unless otherwise specified. EXAMPLE 1:

• makeup compositions

Two makeup compositions according to the invention were prepared. They are mascara compositions comprising a film-forming polymer dispersed either in aqueous phase (composition a) or in anhydrous phase (composition b).

Composition a:

Preparation of composition a:

The starting materials of phase A were first weighed out using a balance (accuracy = 0.01 g). Phase A was placed in a beaker.

Phase B was introduced into phase A with stirring using a Rayneri blender, until a homogeneous preparation was obtained.

Phase C was introduced into phase A+B with stirring using a Rayneri blender, until a homogeneous preparation was obtained.

Next, phase D was added with stirring using a Rayneri blender for 10 minutes.

The mascara thus obtained was transferred into a closed container to prevent it from drying out on contact with air.

Composition b:

Phase Ingredient Mass %

(Methyl acrylate)-co-(isobornyl acrylate) (80/20) copolymer dissolved in

A isododecane (as prepared according to the preparation protocol given 60.0 below)

Iron oxides (sold under the name Sunpuro Black Iron Oxide C33-7001 by

B 10.00

Sun)

Disteardimonium hectorite (sold under the name Bentone 38 VCG by

C 2.0

Elementis) Propylene carbonate (sold under the name Arconate Propylene Carbonate

1.0 by Lyondell)

Isododecane (sold by the company Ineos) qs

D

Preserving agent qs

TOTAL 100

Protocol for preparing the compound "(methyl acrylate)-co-(isobornyl acrylate) (80/20) copolymer dissolved in isododecane":

In a first step, 1300 g of isododecane, 337 g of isobornyl acrylate, 28 g of methyl acrylate and 3.64 g of tert-butyl peroxy-2-ethylhexanoate (Trigonox 21S from Akzo) were placed in a reactor. The isobornyl acrylate/methyl acrylate mass ratio is 92/8. The mixture was heated to 90°C under argon with stirring.

After 2 hours of reaction, 1430 g of isododecane were added to the reactor feedstock and the mixture was heated to 90°C. In a second step, a mixture of 1376 g of methyl acrylate, 1376 g of isododecane and 13.75 g of Trigonox 21S were run in over 2 hours 30 minutes, and the mixture was left to react for 7 hours. 3.3 litres of isododecane were then added and part of the isododecane was evaporated off to obtain a solids content of 50% by weight.

A dispersion of methyl acrylate particles stabilized with a statistical copolymer stabilizer containing 92% isobornyl acrylate and 8% methyl acrylate in isododecane was obtained.

The oily dispersion contains in total (stabilizer + particles) 80% methyl acrylate and 20% isobornyl acrylate.

The polymer particles of the dispersion have a number-average size of about 160 nm.

The dispersion is stable after storage for 7 days at room temperature (25°C). Preparation of composition b:

The starting materials of phase A were first weighed out using a balance (accuracy = 0.01 g). Phase A was placed in a beaker and heated to 70°C using a hotplate.

Phase B was introduced into phase A with stirring using a ayneri blender, until a homogeneous preparation was obtained. Phase C was placed in a beaker with stirring using a magnetic bar. Phase D was added and stirring was continued for 30 minutes.

Phase C+D was introduced into phase A+B with stirring using a Rayneri blender at 70°C for 30 minutes, until a homogeneous preparation was obtained.

• makeup-removing compositions 9 compositions according to the invention and 10 comparative compositions outside the invention were prepared.

Compositions according to the invention:

Comparative compositions outside the invention:

Solubility Mass %

Molecular

parameter

Ingredient weight

(g/mol) 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

(J^/cm¹-⁵)

Water 45.20 18.0 100 - - - - - - -

Makeup-removing

composition (sold under the - 100 - - - - - - name Bl Facil by Lancome)

Makeup-removing

100

composition Shu Uemura

Isododecane (sold by Ineos) 0.00 170.3 - - - 100 60 - - -

Isohexadecane (sold by

0.00 226.5 - - - - - 100 - - Ineos)

Propylene glycol (sold under

the name Adeka PG (P) by 25.02 76.1 - - - - - - 100 - Adeka)

Paraffin (sold under the

name Marcol 82 by 0.00 420.0 - - - - 40 - - 100 ExxonMobil Chemical)

TOTAL 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Compositions according to the invention:

Comparative compositions outside the invention:

Preparation protocol:

The starting materials were weighed out beforehand and then placed in a beaker at room temperature (25°C) and mixed using a Rayneri blender, until a homogeneous composition was obtained.

• comparison of the efficacy of the makeup-removing processes

Compositions 1 to 5 (according to the invention) and 6 to 13 (comparative, outside the invention) were compared during the removal of a mascara composition comprising a film-forming polymer dispersed in aqueous phase (composition a). Compositions 14 to 17 (according to the invention) and 18 to 19 (comparative, outside the invention) were compared during the removal of a mascara composition comprising a film-forming polymer dispersed in anhydrous phase (composition b).

Makeup-removing protocol:

The false eyelash specimen was made up with the above mascara compositions. The leave-on time before makeup removal was 24 hours. The makeup was removed from the false eyelash specimens using cotton pads impregnated with the various makeup-removing compositions 1 to 19 described above.

The makeup-removing composition was considered to be efficient if the number of cotton pads required to remove all of the mascara is less than or equal to 5, preferably strictly less than 5 cotton pads.

Results:

The makeup-removing compositions 1 to 5 and 14 to 17 made it possible to remove all of the mascara impregnating the false eyelashes using 2 or 3 cotton pads. On the other hand, compositions 6 to 13 and compositions 18 and 19 (comparative, outside the invention) did not allow total makeup removal after 5 cotton pads. Moreover, the makeup-removing compositions 1 to 5 and 14 to 17 according to the invention made it possible to remove much more mascara during the first passage than the makeup-removing compositions 6 to 13 and the makeup-removing compositions 18 and 19 outside the invention. The makeup-removing compositions 1 to 5 and 14 to 17 according to the invention are thus much more efficient than the makeup-removing compositions 6 to 13 and 18 and 19 outside the invention. EXAMPLE 2:

• makeup compositions

The makeup composition according to the invention is prepared as presented in Example 1 (composition a). It is a mascara composition comprising a film-forming polymer dispersed in aqueous phase.

• makeup-removing compositions

Four compositions according to the invention and four comparative compositions outside the invention were prepared.

Compositions according to the invention:

Comparative compositions outside the invention:

Solubility

Molecular Mass %

parameter

Ingredient weight

(g/mol) 5 6 7 8

(J^/cm¹-⁵)

Dimethyl isosorbide (sold under the

name Arlasolve DMI-LQ-(AP) by 10.76 174.2 10 15 - - Croda)

Isononyl isononanoate (sold under

the name Paester 9129 by Patech 4.87 284.5 - - 15 - Fine Chemicals)

Dicaprylyl ether (sold under the

3.45 242.0 - - - 15 name Cetiol OE by Cognis)

Paraffin (sold under the name 0.00 420.0 qs qs qs qs

Preparation protocol:

The starting materials were weighed out beforehand and then placed in a beaker at room temperature (25°C) and mixed using a ayneri blender, until a homogeneous composition was obtained.

• comparison of the efficacy of the makeup-removing processes

Compositions 1 to 4 (according to the invention) and 5 to 8 (comparative, outside the invention) were compared during the removal of a mascara composition comprising a film-forming polymer dispersed in aqueous phase (composition a). Makeup-removing protocol:

The false eyelash specimen was made up with the above mascara composition. The leave-on time before makeup removal was 24 hours. The makeup was removed from the false eyelash specimens using cotton pads impregnated with the various makeup-removing compositions 1 to 8 described above. The makeup-removing composition was considered to be efficient if the number of cotton pads required to remove all of the mascara is less than or equal to 5, preferably strictly less than 5 cotton pads.

Results:

The makeup-removing compositions 1 to 4 according to the invention comprising a content strictly greater than 15% by weight of hydrocarbon-based oil(s) relative to the total weight of the makeup- removing composition made it possible to remove all the mascara impregnating the false eyelashes using less than 5 cotton pads, compared with the comparative makeup-removing compositions 5 to 8 comprising a content of less than 15% by weight of hydrocarbon-based oil(s) relative to the total weight of the makeup-removing composition.

The makeup-removing compositions 1 to 4 according to the invention comprising a content strictly greater than 15% by weight of hydrocarbon-based oil(s) relative to the total weight of the makeup- removing composition are thus much more efficient than the makeup-removing compositions outside the invention.

EXAMPLE 3:

• makeup compositions

• makeup-removing compositions

Two compositions according to the invention were prepared. Compositions according to the invention:

• comparison of the efficacy of the makeup-removing process

The compositions according to the invention were compared during the removal of a mascara composition comprising a film-forming polymer dispersed in aqueous phase (composition a).

Makeup-removing protocol: The false eyelash specimen was made up with the above mascara composition. The leave-on time before makeup removal was 24 hours. The makeup was removed from the false eyelash specimens using cotton pads impregnated with the two makeup-removing compositions described above.

Results:

The two makeup-removing compositions according to the invention made it possible to remove all of the mascara impregnating the false eyelashes using 2 cotton pads. The two makeup-removing compositions are thus very efficient.

Claims

Process for removing makeup from and/or for cleansing keratin materials, preferably keratin fibres, especially the eyelashes, comprising:

- application to said keratin materials of a makeup composition comprising at least

10% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the makeup composition, of a water-insoluble film-forming polymer, and

- application to said made-up keratin materials of a makeup-removing composition comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based oil, in which said hydrocarbon-based oil(s) have a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter 8_a ranging from 2 to 15 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}, the makeup-removing composition comprising a content strictly greater than 15% by weight of hydrocarbon-based oil(s) relative to the total weight of the makeup-removing composition.

Process according to Claim 1, in which the makeup-removing composition comprises at least 16% by weight of hydrocarbon-based oil(s), relative to the total weight of the makeup- removing composition, preferably at least 18% by weight, better still at least 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 40% to 95% by weight and in particular ranging from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the makeup-removing composition.

Process according to either of the preceding claims, in which the oil(s) included in the makeup-removing composition are chosen from synthetic esters and ethers, especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formulae RiCOOR₂ and RiOR₂ in which R_x represents a fatty acid residue comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R₂ represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and optionally comprising an amide or hydroxyl group, and mixtures thereof.

Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hydrocarbon-based oil(s) included in the makeup-removing composition are chosen from dicaprylyl ether, isononyl isononanoate, diisobutyl adipate, dimethyl isosorbide, tributyl citrate, diisopropyl adipate and isodecyl neopentanoate, the oil Rhodiasolv RPDE, a mixture of dimethyl succinate/dimethyl adipate/dimethyl glutamate (67/10/23), and mixtures thereof.

Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hydrocarbon-based oil(s) included in the makeup-removing composition are chosen from oils with a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter 8_a preferably ranging from 3.5 to 15 J° 7cm^{1 5}, more preferentially from 5 to 12 J^{0 5}/cm^{1 5}.

Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the makeup-removing composition comprises at least one oil with a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter 8_a ranging from 2 to 15 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5} and at least one additional oil.

7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the additional oil is chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, and in particular from linear or branched hydrocarbons, synthetic esters, especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formula iCOO ₂ in which R_x represents a fatty acid residue comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R₂ represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from hydrocarbons.

8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the makeup-removing composition is in the form of an optionally two-phase lotion, a milk, a cream, an oil, a water- in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, an anhydrous composition, or alternatively a gel, preferably in the form of an anhydrous composition.

9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said film-forming polymer included in the makeup composition is chosen from synthetic polymers, of free-radical type or of polycondensate type, of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said water-insoluble film- forming polymer is preferably dispersed in aqueous or anhydrous medium.

11. Process according to the preceding claim, in which the aqueous phase of the makeup composition represents from 30% to 80% by weight and preferably from 40% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the makeup composition.

12. Process according to Claim 10, in which said film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion is chosen from acrylic polymer dispersions, polyurethane dispersions, sulfopolyester dispersions, vinyl dispersions, polyvinyl acetate dispersions, vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride terpolymer dispersions, dispersions of polyurethane/polyacrylic hybrid polymers, dispersions of particles of core-shell type and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof, preferably from acrylic polymer dispersions, dispersions of polyurethane/polyacrylic hybrid polymers, and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof, preferentially from acrylic polymer dispersions, in particular polyester-polyurethane dispersions, and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

13. Process according to Claim 10, in which said film-forming polymer dispersed in anhydrous medium is chosen from polyurethane dispersions, polyurethane-acrylic dispersions, polyurea dispersions, polyurea/polyurethane dispersions, polyester/polyurethane dispersions, polyether/polyurethane dispersions, polyester dispersions, polyester amide dispersions, fatty-chain polyester dispersions, acrylic and/or vinyl polymer or copolymer dispersions, silicone polymer dispersions, fluoropolymer dispersions, and mixtures thereof.

14. Use of a makeup-removing composition comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based oil, in which said hydrocarbon-based oil(s) have a molecular weight of less than or equal to 400 g/mol and a solubility parameter 8_a ranging from 2 to 15 J^{0 5}/an^{1 5}, the makeup-removing composition comprises a content strictly greater than 15% by weight of hydrocarbon-based oil(s), relative to the total weight of the makeup-removing composition, for removing makeup from and/or for cleansing keratin materials, preferably keratin fibres and especially the eyelashes, made up with a makeup composition comprising at least 10% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the makeup composition, of a water-insoluble film-forming polymer.