WO2015021689A1 - 一种油包水型粉底霜组合物及其制备方法 - Google Patents

一种油包水型粉底霜组合物及其制备方法 Download PDF

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WO2015021689A1
WO2015021689A1 PCT/CN2013/084586 CN2013084586W WO2015021689A1 WO 2015021689 A1 WO2015021689 A1 WO 2015021689A1 CN 2013084586 W CN2013084586 W CN 2013084586W WO 2015021689 A1 WO2015021689 A1 WO 2015021689A1
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phase
oil
water
foundation cream
cream composition
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PCT/CN2013/084586
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English (en)
French (fr)
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侯腾腾
庄东青
唐娟
刘彩娥
黄勇前
吴邦元
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江苏飞翔化工股份有限公司
上海得高实业有限公司
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Publication of WO2015021689A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015021689A1/zh

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/064Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a water-in-oil type foundation cream composition and a preparation method thereof, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. Background technique
  • a rolling cosmetic is a stable two-phase system formed by dispersing a liquid in another liquid that is not completely compatible with it.
  • the most common rolling liquid cosmetic is a rolling oil of oil and water.
  • the rolling liquid formed by dispersing oil droplets in water is called oil-in-water rolling liquid (0/W), and the water droplets are dispersed in oil.
  • the rolling liquid is called a water-in-oil rolling liquid (w/o).
  • the water-in-oil-like liquid has the advantages of good water repellency, smooth skin feel, and brighter appearance, which leads to the water-in-oil type of the daily foundation foundation structure in the prior art.
  • the HLB value Hydroph i l e-L i poph i l e Ba ance Number
  • water-in-oil rolling agents such as glycerol, polyglycerol, sorbitol or lanolin alcohol esters or stearates are usually used in large quantities in the preparation of stable water-in-oil-rolled liquids.
  • the phase quality reaches 10-20wt%, which will result in the prepared melt product having high viscosity and poor spreadability, thereby causing the skin feels greasy and unsmooth after application; especially when the above rolling agent is used for rolling the silicone oil system.
  • the rolling performance is even worse.
  • the conventional water-in-oil rolling agent is used.
  • fatty acid polyol esters do not give a stable water-in-oil rolling liquid.
  • Chinese patent document CN1471903A discloses a foundation cream in the form of a water-in-oil type roll, the raw material components of which include: a fat phase (ie, an oil phase), which accounts for 22% by weight to 50% by weight of the mass of the rolling agent; rolling the mass percentage of agents representing 30wt% -50wt%; C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol, accounting for rolling 0.
  • the fatty phase contains a volatile hydrocarbon oil, a volatile silicone oil (one of the silicone oils) and/or a volatile fluorinated oil by using a C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethylsiloxane
  • a composite rolling agent system composed of a copolymerized polyol and a dimethylsiloxane copolyol, which has good stability and can obtain a makeup on the skin.
  • the formulation of the raw material components must be composed of a C 8 -C 22 alkyldimethylsiloxane copolyol and a dimethylsiloxane copolyol.
  • the composite rolling agent system, and the composite rolling agent component accounts for a higher content of the foundation cream of about 5. 5wt%-30wt%, but on the one hand, compared with a single rolling agent system, the composite rolling agent The system needs to be compounded, the operation is complicated, and the compatibility of the compound is poor.
  • the content of the rolling agent component is high, not only the cost is high, but also the prepared product has high viscosity and poor spreadability, thereby causing After application, the skin feels greasy and not refreshing. Summary of the invention
  • the technical problem to be solved by the present invention is that in the prior art, in order to ensure the preparation of a water-in-oil type foundation cream with good stability, it is necessary to use a compound rolling agent, which leads to the problem of high viscosity and poor spreadability of the prepared foundation cream.
  • This provides a water-in-oil foundation cream composition having an oil-in-water structure effect, which is prepared by using a single rolling agent and having good stability, moderate viscosity, and spreading.
  • the present invention also provides a method of preparing the water-in-oil type foundation cream composition.
  • the present invention provides a water-in-oil type foundation cream composition, the mass percentage of each of the raw material components is as follows: The oil phase is 10% by weight; the oily phase is 10-40% by weight; the hydrophobic foundation pigment is 5-10% by weight; the aqueous phase additive is 0. 5-10% by weight; the essence and/or the preservative is 0. 1 -0. 4 wt%; the amount;
  • the rolling agent is an alkyl/polyether-dimethylsiloxane copolymer having the structure shown below Wherein a is an integer of 10-15, b is an integer of 8-10, m is a 10-100 integer, n is an integer of 2-15, and o is an integer of 33-180.
  • the mass percentage of each raw material component in the foundation cream composition is as follows:
  • a is an integer of 12-15
  • b is an integer of 8-10
  • m is an integer of 10-50
  • n is 2-8 Integer
  • o is an integer from 50 to 120.
  • n is 3:1—7:1, o: (m+n) is 1.5: 1–8: 1.
  • the alkyl/polyether-dimethylsiloxane copolymer has both an alkyl group and a polyether group having an HLB value of 5 and a colorless to pale yellow liquid having a viscosity of 1500- 4000cst, chromaticity is less than 100.
  • the oil phase is a silicon based oil phase and/or a carbon based oil phase.
  • the silicon-based oil phase is hexamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane a mixture of one or more of dimethylsiloxane having a viscosity of 50 cst-120 cst;
  • the carbon-based oil phase is isododecane, isohexadecane, mineral a mixture of one or more of oil, isopropyl myristate, hexyl laurate.
  • the hydrophobic foundation pigment is a mixture of one or more of talc, silica, titania, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, and pearl powder.
  • the aqueous phase additive is a mixture of one or more of barium sulfate heptahydrate, sodium chloride, glycerin, isopropanol myristate, 1,2-propanediol, 1, 3-butanediol.
  • the fragrance is a mixture of one or more of a floral, animal or non-flora type.
  • the floral fragrance may be selected from one of rose essence, osmanthus fragrance, sandalwood essence, lavender essence or any combination thereof;
  • the animal fragrance may be selected from the group consisting of ambergris, musk, civet, beaver One of fragrant, squirrel scent or any combination thereof; non-flora scent is selected from one of green scent, honey sweet, amber, fruit, wine or any combination thereof.
  • the preservative is Nepalese gold methyl ester and/or Nepal gold ethyl ester.
  • the invention also provides a preparation method of the water-in-oil type foundation cream composition, which comprises the following steps:
  • the water-in-oil foundation cream composition of the present invention contains only a single rolling agent component in the raw material formulation, and the percentage of the single rolling agent component in the total mass of the foundation cream It is only 0. 3-5wt%, compared with the water-in-oil foundation cream which is good in stability in the prior art, a composite rolling agent system composed of two or more rolling agents is used in the raw material component, and The composite rolling agent system has a higher percentage of the total mass of the foundation cream of 5.
  • the oil phase contains a silicon-based oil phase because the silicone-based oil phase is used as a cosmetic oil phase component Good slipperiness, breathability, softness, water repellency, good chemical stability and biocompatibility, which in turn makes the foundation cream have a better skin feel;
  • the water-in-oil type foundation cream composition of the present invention as a W/0 type foundation cream, has the characteristics that the W/0 type foundation cream product is stable in storage and suitable for use in a cold area, and at the same time It has a 0/W type foundation cream which is refreshing, oily, non-sticky and excellent in skin feel.
  • the foundation cream composition of the present invention can immediately rupture and provide visible moisture retention. , emollient, masking effects. detailed description
  • Silicon-based oil phase hexamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, viscosity Dimethyl siloxane of 50 cst-120 cst Burned, and carbon-based oil phase: isododecane, isohexadecane, mineral oil, isopropyl myristate, hexyl laurate, all of which are analytically pure reagents provided by Sinopharm Group; Dispersion rolling machine, brand FLUK0, model FA-25.
  • 100 g of the water-in-oil foundation cream composition is prepared, and the content of each component in the raw material formulation is as follows: alkyl/polyether-dimethylsiloxane copolymer, 5 g;
  • the aqueous phase additive is a mixed component of 1, 3-butanediol and barium sulfate heptahydrate in a mass ratio of 5:1, 10 g; rose essence, 0.1 g; deionized water, 39.9 g;
  • the preparation method of the foundation cream composition comprises the following steps:
  • phase A (1) weighing the alkyl/polyether-dimethylsiloxane copolymer, dimethyl silicone oil having a viscosity of 120 cst, decamethyltetrasiloxane and iron oxide base pigment and mixing them according to the selected weight Hook, as phase A; (2) Weigh deionized water, 1, 3-butanediol and barium sulfate heptahydrate according to the selected weight and mix well as phase B;
  • the A phase and the B phase are separately heated to 40 ⁇ 2° C., and the phase B is added to the phase A at a rate of 5 mL/min at 500 r/min, followed by a laboratory high.
  • the shearing and dispersing rolling machine is homogenized for 20 min at 20000 r/min, cooled to room temperature, and added rose essence (also called C phase), uniformly mixed, and discharged.
  • Example 2
  • 100 g of the water-in-oil type foundation cream composition is prepared, and the content of each component in the raw material formula is as follows: alkyl/polyether-dimethylsiloxane copolymer, 0.3 g;
  • Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane 7g
  • mineral oil 3g talc foundation pigment, 5g
  • talc foundation pigment 5g
  • the aqueous phase additive is isopropanol tetradecanoate, 0.1 g; rose essence, 0.3 g;
  • the preparation method of the foundation cream composition comprises the following steps:
  • phase A weigh the alkyl/polyether-dimethylsiloxane copolymer, octamethyl ring, in selected parts by weight Tetrasiloxane, mineral oil and talc powder are mixed and combined as phase A;
  • Example 3 In the present example, 100 g of the water-in-oil foundation cream composition was prepared, and the content of each component in the raw material formulation was as follows: alkyl/polyether-dimethylsiloxane copolymer, 2.5 g;
  • the aqueous phase additive is a mixture of glycerin and sodium chloride in a mass ratio of 2:1, 8 g; rose essence, 0.1 g; Nepalese gold methyl ester, 0.1 g; deionized water, 53.3 g; the rolling agent described in this example
  • the structure is: Where a is 12, b is 10, m is 50, n is 8, and o is 120.
  • the preparation method of the foundation cream composition comprises the following steps:
  • phase B was added dropwise to the phase A at a rate of 5 mL/min under a stirring condition of 500 r/min, followed by laboratory high shear dispersion rolling.
  • the machine was homogenized at 10,000 r/min for 10 min, cooled to room temperature, and added rose essence and Nepalese gold methyl ester (also known as phase C), mixed evenly, and discharged.
  • 100 g of the water-in-oil type foundation cream composition is prepared, and the content of each component in the raw material formulation is as follows: alkyl/polyether-dimethylsiloxane copolymer, 4 g; isododecane, Isohexadecane, mineral oil, isopropyl myristate, hexyl laurate in a mixed carbon-based oil phase of equal mass, 20 g; foundation pigments are talc, silica, titania, iron oxide, zirconia, a mixture of pearl powder in equal mass, 8g; an aqueous phase additive of 1,2-propanediol, 3g; rose essence, 0.1g; Nepalese gold methyl ester, 0.3g; Deionized water, 64.6g; this embodiment
  • the preparation method of the foundation cream composition comprises the following steps:
  • phase A (1) weighing a mixture of an alkyl/polyether-dimethylsiloxane copolymer, a mixed carbon-based oil phase, and a hydrophobic foundation pigment in a selected weight portion and mixing them as a phase A;
  • Embodiment 5 The water-in-oil type foundation cream composition in the present embodiment has the same contents of various raw material components and preparation methods as in Embodiment 1, except that the alkyl group/polyether-dimethyl group is the same.
  • siloxane copolymer rolling agent a is 12, b is 8, m is 15, n is 5, and o is 50.
  • Embodiment 6 The water-in-oil type foundation cream composition in the present embodiment has the same content and preparation method of various raw material components as in Embodiment 2, except that the alkyl group/polyether-dimethyl group is the same.
  • a is 15, b is 10, m is 35, n is 5, and o is 60.
  • Embodiment 7 The water-in-oil type foundation cream composition in the present embodiment, the content of various raw material components and preparation thereof
  • the method is exactly the same as in Example 3, except that in the alkyl/polyether-dimethylsiloxane copolymer rolling agent, a is 15, b is 10, m is 18, and n is 4. o is 176.
  • Example 8 The water-in-oil type foundation cream composition 100g prepared in the present embodiment, the structure of the alkyl/polyether-dimethylsiloxane copolymer rolling agent used, and the preparation method and examples thereof 1 is identical, except that the content of each raw material component is as follows: alkyl/polyether-dimethylsiloxane copolymer, 0. 2g; dimethicone with a viscosity of 120 cst, 15 g; Base tetrasiloxane, 25g; iron oxide base pigment, 10g; aqueous phase additive is 1,3-butanediol and barium sulfate heptahydrate in a mass ratio of 5:1, 10g; rose essence, 0. 1 g ;
  • Embodiment 9 The water-in-oil type foundation cream composition in the present embodiment has the same contents of various raw material components and preparation methods as those in Embodiment 1, except that the alkyl group/polyether-dimethyl group is the same.
  • a is 18, b is 6, m is 5, n is 16, and o is 6.
  • Embodiment 10 The water-in-oil type foundation cream composition in the present embodiment has the same contents of various raw material components and preparation methods as those in Embodiment 1, except that the alkyl group/polyether-dimethyl group is the same.
  • a is 8
  • b is 15
  • m is 1
  • n is 1, and o is 200.
  • Embodiment 11 The water-in-oil type foundation cream composition in the present embodiment has the same content and preparation method of various raw material components as in Embodiment 1, except that different rolling agents are used, the pair Proportion The structure of the rolling agent is as follows:
  • the water-in-oil type foundation cream combination in the present comparative examples has the same contents of various raw material components and preparation methods as those in the first embodiment, and the only difference is that the structure of the rolling agent is as follows:
  • the water-in-oil type foundation cream composition in the present comparative example has the same contents of various raw material components and preparation methods as those in the first embodiment, except that different rolling agents are used, and the present comparative ratio is rolled.
  • the structure of the agent is as follows:
  • Test Example 1 The foundation cream compositions prepared in Examples 1-3 were sequentially numbered as AL, and the stability test, gloss, viscosity and spreadability, and sensory properties of the products were evaluated in turn. 1 is shown.
  • the stability evaluation specifically refers to: maintaining the temperature for 24 hours in the freeze-thaw cycle (_5 ° C - 15 ° C), after the room temperature is restored, if the product has no delamination, no bleaching oil, water effluent phenomenon, the paste is delicate If the product is not rough, the product stability is good. On the contrary, the product stability is poor.
  • the gloss evaluation is to observe the appearance of the product with the naked eye. If it is fine and bright, the gloss is good.
  • the roughness of the paste is generally rough and the unevenness of the oil is uneven.
  • the results show that the sample of the numbered AG foundation cream obtained in Examples 1-7 of the present invention can not only be stored at 45 ° C for 30 days, but also has good stability. Under the freeze-thaw cycle (_5 ° C - 15 ° C) for 24 h, return to room temperature, the foundation cream composition still maintains good stability, especially for the sample EG, but also has a delicate and bright appearance, moderate Viscosity and uniform spreadability, it feels refreshing and non-greasy when applied to the skin; and for sample H, although the single rolling agent of the present invention is used, since the content of the rolling agent is too small, it is relatively small in the rolling stage.
  • the rolling agent used is an alkyl/polyether-dimethylsiloxane copolymer
  • the values of a , b, m, n, o in the structure are beyond the rolling of the present invention.
  • complete rolling cannot be performed, and the foundation cream has a low viscosity and is immediately layered.
  • the sample numbered KM was a sample of the foundation cream composition prepared using other single rolling agents, and the evaluation results showed that even if the same composition ratio as in Example 1 of the present invention was used, when a single rolling agent of a different structure was used,
  • the foundation cream is still rough, has poor freezing and storage stability, and looks dull and viscous at the same time. It is not easy to spread when used, and it is not uniform. It is applied to the skin and feels greasy and not refreshing.

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Abstract

含有单一乳化剂组分的油包水型粉底霜组合物,包括乳化剂0.3-5wt%,油相10-40wt%,疏水性粉底颜料5-10wt%,水相添加剂0.5-10wt%,香精和/或防腐剂0.1-0.4wt%,水相剩余量。

Description

说 明 书 一种油包水型粉底霜組合物及其制备方法
技术领域 本发明涉及一种油包水型粉底霜組合物及其制备方法, 属于化妆品技术 领域。 背景技术
轧状液化妆品是通过将一种液体分散于与之不完全相溶的另一种液体中 形成的稳定两相体系。 最常见的轧状液化妆品是油与水的轧状液, 其中, 将 油滴分散于水中形成的轧状液称为水包油轧状液 (0/W) , 将水滴分散于油中 的轧状液称为油包水轧状液 (w/o)。 相较于水包油轧状液而言, 油包水轧状 液具有防水性好、 肤感更滑、 外观更光亮等优点, 导致现有技术中日常粉底 霜结构上都为油包水型, 以使其具有较好的防晒、 遮瑕及修饰作用。 为 制 备 稳 定 的 油 包 水 轧 状 液 , 所 需 轧 化 剂 的 HLB 值 (Hydroph i l e-L i poph i l e Ba l ance Number , 亲水疏水平衡值) 一般需要低于
8, 以使水滴能够溶于或分散于油相中。传统的油包水轧化剂如甘油、 聚甘油、 山梨醇或羊毛蜡醇的油酸酯或硬脂酸酯, 在用于制备稳定的油包水轧状液时 通常用量比较大, 占油相质量达到的 10-20wt%, 从而将导致制备得到的轧状 液产品粘度大、 铺展性差, 进而造成涂抹后肤感油膩、 不清爽; 尤其是当上 述轧化剂用于对硅油体系的轧化时其轧化性能更差, 因此, 当油相中含有硅 油或硅油与动植物油、 矿物油、 烃油、 蜡之类形成的有机系原料复合油时, 使用传统的油包水轧化剂如脂肪酸多元醇酯并不能得到稳定的油包水轧液。 中国专利文献 CN1471903A公开了一种油包水型轧剂形式的粉底霜, 其原 料組分中包括:脂肪相 (即油相) ,占轧剂质量百分含量 22wt%-50wt% ; 水相, 占轧剂质量百分含量 30wt%-50wt% ; C8-C22烷基二甲基硅氧烷共聚多元醇, 占 轧剂质量百分含量 0. 5wt%-5wt% ; 二甲基硅氧烷共聚多元醇, 占轧剂质量百分 含量 5wt%-10wt%; 以及疏水性的包核颜料, 占轧剂质量百分含量 0. 5wt%-20wt%。 该脂肪相中含有挥发性烃油、 挥发性的聚硅氧烷油 (属于硅 油的一种)和 /或挥发性氟化油,通过采用由 C8-C22烷基二甲基硅氧烷共聚多元 醇和二甲基硅氧烷共聚多元醇两种轧化剂組成的复合轧化剂体系, 该油包水 型粉底霜稳定性较好, 并能在皮肤上得到均勾的化妆。 然而, 为了获得稳定 性好的油包水粉底霜, 其原料組分的配方中必须采用由 C8-C22烷基二甲基硅氧 烷共聚多元醇和二甲基硅氧烷共聚多元醇組成的复合轧化剂体系, 且该复合 轧化剂組分占粉底霜的含量较高约为 5. 5wt%-30wt%, 但是, 一方面相较于单 一轧化剂体系, 该复合轧化剂体系需进行复配, 操作复杂, 复配相容性差; 另外, 由于轧化剂組分的含量较高, 不仅成本较高, 还会导致制备得到的产 品粘度大、 铺展性较差, 进而造成涂抹后肤感油膩、 不清爽。 发明内容
本发明所要解决的技术问题是现有技术中为了保证制备得到稳定性好的 油包水型粉底霜必须采用复配轧化剂, 进而导致制备得到粉底霜的粘度大、 铺展性差的问题, 由此提供一种使用单一轧化剂就制备得到的稳定性好、 粘 度适中、 铺展均勾的具有水包油结构效果的油包水型粉底霜組合物。 本发明还提供一种制备所述油包水型粉底霜組合物的方法。 为解决上述技术问题, 本发明是通过以下技术方案实现的: 本发明提供了一种油包水型粉底霜組合物, 其各种原料組分的质量百分 含量如下: 轧化剂 0. 3-5wt% ; 油相 10-40wt% ; 疏水性粉底颜料 5-10wt%; 水相添加剂 0. 5-10 wt% ; 香精和 /或防腐剂 0. 1 -0. 4 wt%; 水相 剩余量;
其中, 所述轧化剂为具有如下所示结构的烷基 /聚醚 -二甲基硅氧烷共聚
Figure imgf000004_0001
其中, a为 10-15的整数, b为 8-10的整数, m为 10-100整数, n为 2-15 的整数, o为 33-180的整数。 所述粉底霜組合物中各原料組分的质量百分含量如下:
烷基 /聚醚-二甲基硅氧烷共聚物 2.5-4 wt%;
油相 20-30 wt%; 疏水性粉底颜料 6-8 wt%; 水相添加剂 3-8 wt%; 香精和 /或防腐剂 0.2-0.4 wt%; 水相 剩余量。
所述烷基 /聚醚 -二甲基硅氧烷共聚物的结构中, a为 12-15的整数, b为 8-10的整数, m为 10-50的整数, n为 2-8的整数, o为 50-120的整数。
m:n为 3:1—7:1, o: (m+n)为 1.5: 1—8: 1。
m:n为 4.5—7:1, o: (m+n) 为 2.5:1—8:1。 所述烷基 /聚醚 -二甲基硅氧烷共聚物的结构中, 同时含有烷基和聚醚基 团, 其 HLB值为 5, 外观为无色至浅黄色液体, 其粘度为 1500-4000cst, 色 度小于 100。 所述油相为硅基油相和 /或碳基油相。 所述硅基油相为六甲基三硅氧烷、 十甲基四硅氧烷、 八甲基环四硅氧烷、 十甲基环五硅氧烷、 十二甲基环六硅氧烷、 粘度为 50cst-120cst的二甲基硅 氧烷中的一种或几种的混合物; 所述碳基油相为异十二烷、 异十六烷、 矿物 油、 肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、 月桂酸己酯中的一种或几种的混合物。 所述疏水性粉底颜料为滑石粉、 二氧化硅、 二氧化钛、 氧化铁、 氧化锆、 珍珠粉中的一种或几种的混合物。 所述水相添加剂为七水合硫酸锾、 氯化钠、 甘油、 十四酸异丙醇、 1, 2- 丙二醇, 1, 3-丁二醇中的一种或几种的混合物。 所述香精为花香型、 动物香型、 非花香型中的一种或几种的混合物。 其 中, 所述花香型香精可选自玫瑰香精、 桂花香精、 檀香香精、 薫衣草香精中 的一种或其任意組合; 动物香型香精可选自龙涎香、 麝香、 灵猫香、 海狸香、 麝鼠香中的一种或其任意組合; 非花香型香精选自青滋香、 蜜甜香、 琥珀香、 果香、 酒香中的一种或其任意組合。 所述防腐剂为尼泊尔金甲酯和 /或尼泊尔金乙酯。 本发明还提供了一种所述油包水型粉底霜組合物的制备方法, 其包括如 下步骤:
( 1 ) 按选定重量份称取所述轧化剂、 油相、 疏水性粉底颜料并进行混合 均匀, 作为 A相;
(2) 按选定重量份称取所述水相和水相添加剂并进行混合均勾, 作为 B 相;
(3) 将所述 A相、 B相分别加热至 40 ± 2°C, 在搅拌条件下将所述 B相 滴加到所述 A相中, 并进行均质处理, 冷却到室温, 加入所述香精和 /或防腐 剂, 混合均匀, 出料即得。 本发明的上述技术方案相比现有技术具有以下优点:
( 1 ) 本发明所述的油包水型粉底霜組合物, 其原料配方中仅含有单一 轧化剂組分, 且所述单一轧化剂組分在粉底霜总质量中所占百分含量仅为 0. 3-5wt%, 较之现有技术中为了获得稳定性好的油包水粉底霜, 其原料組分 中须采用两种以上轧化剂組成的复合轧化剂体系,并且采用的复合轧化剂体 系在粉底霜总质量中所占百分含量较高为 5. 5-30wt%, 不仅复合轧化剂体系 需进行复配, 操作复杂, 复配相容性差, 同时, 轧化剂組分含量较高, 还会 导致制备得到的产品粘度大、 铺展性较差, 成本较高; 本发明所述油包水型 粉底霜組合物, 通过仅采用单一轧化剂組分, 且所述单一轧化剂的含量仅为
0. 3-5wt%, 不仅减少了复合轧化剂的配制步骤, 降低产品生产成本与难度, 同时所述油包水型粉底霜組合物能够在高温、 冷冻 /解冻循环、 长期储存条 件下均具有优异稳定性, 表面光亮, 具有良好的流变性和铺展性, 在施用后 与皮肤保持很好的相容性、 防水性好、 肤感光滑、 外观光亮, 并具有较好的 保湿、 润肤、 遮盖修饰效果; 本发明所述粉底霜組合物中含所述轧化剂組分的质量百分含量为 0. 3-5wt%, 理论上, 轧化剂的含量越高形成的粉底霜組合物稳定性越好, 然 而随着轧化剂含量的增加, 成本将增加, 从而制备粉底霜組合物时, 需要将 轧化剂的含量控制在合适的范围内, 以实现在保证产品稳定性的同时, 尽量 减少成本;
(2) 本发明所述的油包水型粉底霜組合物, 优选地, 所述油相含有硅基 油相, 这是因为所述硅基油相用作化妆品油相組分时, 具有较好的滑爽性、 透气性、 柔软性、 憎水性, 良好的化学稳定性及生物相容性, 进而使得所述 粉底霜具有更好的肤感;
(3) 本发明所述的油包水型粉底霜組合物, 作为一种 W/0型粉底霜, 既 具有 W/0 型粉底霜产品贮存稳定、 适宜在较冷地区使用的特点, 又同时使其 具有了 0/W 型粉底霜使用感觉清爽、 油润, 无粘膩感, 肤感优良的特点, 本 发明所述粉底霜組合物施用于皮肤时, 能够立即破裂并提供明显可见的保湿、 润肤、 遮盖修饰的效果。 具体实施方式
各实施例中仅以常见试剂为例予以阐述本方案的技术效果, 具体包括:
硅基油相: 六甲基三硅氧烷、 十甲基四硅氧烷、 八甲基环四硅氧烷、 十 甲基环五硅氧烷、 十二甲基环六硅氧烷、 粘度为 50cst-120cst的二甲基硅氧 烧, 以及碳基油相: 异十二烷、 异十六烷、 矿物油、 肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、 月桂 酸己酯, 均为国药集团提供的分析纯试剂;, 实验室用高剪切分散轧化机, 品牌 FLUK0, 型号 FA-25。
实施例 1
本实施例中制备所述油包水型粉底霜組合物 100g, 其原料配方中各組分 含量为如下: 烷基 /聚醚-二甲基硅氧烷共聚物, 5g;
粘度为 120cst的二甲基硅油, 15g;
十甲基四硅氧烷, 25g; 氧化铁粉底颜料, 10g;
水相添加剂为 1, 3-丁二醇和七水合硫酸锾以质量比 5:1 組成的混合組 分, 10g; 玫瑰香精, 0.1g; 去离子水, 39.9g; 本实施例
Figure imgf000007_0001
其中, a为 15, b为 8, m为 100, n为 15, o为 180。 所述粉底霜組合物的制备方法, 包括如下步骤:
(1 ) 按选定重量称取所述烷基 /聚醚-二甲基硅氧烷共聚物、 粘度为 120cst 的二甲基硅油、 十甲基四硅氧烷和氧化铁粉底颜料并混合均勾, 作为 A相; (2) 按选定重量称取去离子水、 1, 3-丁二醇和七水合硫酸锾并混合均 匀, 作为 B相;
(3) 将所述 A相、 B相分别加热至 40±2°C, 在 500r/min的搅拌条件下 将 B相以 5mL/mi n速度滴加到 A相中, 接着采用实验室用高剪切分散轧化机 在 20000r/min转速下进行均质处理 20min, 冷却到室温, 加入玫瑰香精 (也 称为 C相), 混合均匀, 出料即得。 实施例 2
本实施例中制备所述油包水型粉底霜組合物 100g, 其原料配方中各組分 含量为如下: 烷基 /聚醚-二甲基硅氧烷共聚物, 0.3g;
八甲基环四硅氧烷, 7g; 矿物油, 3g 滑石粉粉底颜料, 5g;
水相添加剂为十四酸异丙醇, 0.1g; 玫瑰香精, 0.3g;
尼泊尔金甲酯, 0.1g; 去离子水, 83.8g;
本实施例所述轧化剂的结构为:
Figure imgf000008_0001
其中, a为 12, b为 10, m为 10, n为 2, o为 33。 所述粉底霜組合物的制备方法, 包括如下步骤:
(1) 按选定重量份称取所述烷基 /聚醚-二甲基硅氧烷共聚物、 八甲基环 四硅氧烷、 矿物油和滑石粉并混合均勾, 作为 A相;
(2) 按选定重量份称取去离子水和十四酸异丙醇并进行混合均勾, 作为
B相;
(3) 将所述 A相、 B相分别加热至 38°C, 在 500r/min的搅拌条件下将 B 相以 5mL/mi n速度滴加到 A相中,接着采用实验室用高剪切分散轧化机在 5000 r/min 转速下进行均质处理 5min, 冷却到室温, 加入所述玫瑰香精和尼泊尔 金甲酯 (也称为 C相), 混合均匀, 出料即得。 实施例 3 本实施例中制备所述油包水型粉底霜組合物 100g, 其原料配方中各組分 含量为如下: 烷基 /聚醚-二甲基硅氧烷共聚物, 2.5g;
十二甲基环六硅氧烷, 10g; 六甲基三硅氧烷, 5g; 粘度为 50cst的二甲基硅氧烷, 5g; 十甲基环五硅氧烷, 5g; 肉豆蔻酸异丙酯, 5g 粉底颜料为珍珠粉和二氧化钛以质量比 1 :1 組成的混合物, 6g;
水相添加剂为甘油和氯化钠以质量比 2: 1 組成的混合物, 8g; 玫瑰香精, 0.1g; 尼泊尔金甲酯, 0.1g; 去离子水, 53.3g; 本实施例所述轧化剂的结构为:
Figure imgf000010_0001
其中, a为 12, b为 10, m为 50, n为 8, o为 120。 所述粉底霜組合物的制备方法, 包括如下步骤:
(1) 按选定重量份称取所述烷基 /聚醚-二甲基硅氧烷共聚物、 十二甲基 环六硅氧烷、 六甲基三硅氧烷、 粘度为 50cst 的二甲基硅氧烷、 十甲基环五 硅氧烷、 肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、 珍珠粉和二氧化钛并混合均勾, 作为 A相;
(2)按选定重量份称取去离子水、 甘油和氯化钠并混合均勾, 作为 B相;
(3) 将所述 A相、 B相分别加热至 42°C, 在 500r/min的搅拌条件下将 B 相以 5mL/min速度滴加到 A相中,接着采用实验室高剪切分散轧化机在 10000 r/min转速下进行均质处理 10min, 冷却到室温, 加入玫瑰香精和尼泊尔金甲 酯 (也称为 C相), 混合均匀, 出料即得。
实施例 4
本实施例中制备所述油包水型粉底霜組合物 100g, 其原料配方中各組分 含量为如下: 烷基 /聚醚-二甲基硅氧烷共聚物, 4g; 异十二烷、 异十六烷、 矿物油、 肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、 月桂酸己酯以等质量 組成的混合碳基油相, 20g; 粉底颜料为滑石粉、 二氧化硅、 二氧化钛、 氧化铁、 氧化锆、 珍珠粉以 等质量組成的混合物, 8g; 水相添加剂为 1, 2-丙二醇, 3g; 玫瑰香精, 0.1g; 尼泊尔金甲酯, 0.3g; 去离子水, 64.6g; 本实施例
Figure imgf000011_0001
其中, a为 13, b为 10, m为 12, n为 2, o为 50。 所述粉底霜組合物的制备方法, 包括如下步骤:
(1 )按选定重量份称取烷基 /聚醚-二甲基硅氧烷共聚物、混合碳基油相、 疏水性粉底颜料的混合物并混合均勾, 作为 A相;
(2) 按选定重量份称取去离子水和 1, 2-丙二醇并混合均勾, 作为 B相;
(3) 将所述 A相、 B相分别加热至 42°C, 在 500r/min的搅拌条件下将 B 相以 5mL/min速度滴加到 A相中,接着采用实验室高剪切分散轧化机在 10000 r/min转速下进行均质处理 10min, 冷却到室温, 加入玫瑰香精和尼泊尔金甲 酯 (也称为 C相), 混合均匀, 出料即得。 实施例 5 本实施例中所述油包水型粉底霜組合物, 其各种原料組分含量以及制备 方法都与实施例 1 中完全相同, 区别仅在于所述烷基 /聚醚-二甲基硅氧烷共 聚物轧化剂中, a为 12, b为 8, m为 15, n为 5, o为 50。
实施例 6 本实施例中所述油包水型粉底霜組合物, 其各种原料組分含量以及制备 方法都与实施例 2 中完全相同, 区别仅在于所述烷基 /聚醚-二甲基硅氧烷共 聚物轧化剂中, a为 15, b为 10, m为 35, n为 5, o为 60。
实施例 7 本实施例中所述油包水型粉底霜組合物, 其各种原料組分含量以及制备 方法都与实施例 3 中完全相同, 区别仅在于所述烷基 /聚醚-二甲基硅氧烷共 聚物轧化剂中, a为 15, b为 10, m为 18, n为 4, o为 176。
实施例 8 本实施例中制备所述油包水型粉底霜組合物 100g, 其采用的所述烷基 / 聚醚-二甲基硅氧烷共聚物轧化剂的结构以及制备方法与实施例 1 中完全相 同, 区别仅在于各种原料組分的含量为如下: 烷基 /聚醚-二甲基硅氧烷共聚物, 0. 2g ; 粘度为 120cst的二甲基硅油, 15g ; 十甲基四硅氧烷, 25g ; 氧化铁粉底颜料, 10g ; 水相添加剂为 1, 3-丁二醇和七水合硫酸锾以质量比 5 : 1 組成的混合組 分, 10g ; 玫瑰香精, 0. 1 g ;
去离子水, 44. 7g o
实施例 9 本实施例中所述油包水型粉底霜組合物, 其各种原料組分含量以及制备 方法都与实施例 1 中完全相同, 区别仅在于所述烷基 /聚醚-二甲基硅氧烷共 聚物轧化剂中, a为 18, b为 6, m为 5, n为 16, o为 6 。
实施例 10 本实施例中所述油包水型粉底霜組合物, 其各种原料組分含量以及制备 方法都与实施例 1 中完全相同, 区别仅在于所述烷基 /聚醚-二甲基硅氧烷共 聚物轧化剂中, a为 8, b为 15, m为 1 10, n为 1, o为 200。
实施例 11 本实施例中所述油包水型粉底霜組合物, 其各种原料組分含量以及制备 方法都与实施例 1 中完全相同, 区别仅在于采用了不同的轧化剂, 本对比例 采用轧化剂的结构如下:
Figure imgf000013_0001
其中, a为 15, b为 8, m为 21, n为 69。
实施例 12
本对比例中所述油包水型粉底霜組合 其各种原料組分含量以及制备 方法都与实施例 1 中完全相同, 区别仅在于 本对比例 采用轧化剂的结构如下:
H C—— Si—— O
Figure imgf000013_0002
其中, a为 15, b为 8, m为 12, n为 33。
实施例 13
本对比例中所述油包水型粉底霜組合物, 其各种原料組分含量以及制备 方法都与实施例 1 中完全相同, 区别仅在于采用了不同的轧化剂, 本对比例 采用轧化剂的结构如下:
Figure imgf000013_0003
其中, a为 15, b为 1 0, m为 18, n为 50。 測试例 将实施例 1 -1 3制备得到的粉底霜組合物依次编号为 A-L, 并依次对产品 的稳定性測试、 光泽度、 粘度及铺展性、 使用感官等性能进行评价, 结果如 表 1所示。 所述稳定性评价, 具体是指: 在冻融循环 (_5°C—- 15°C ) 下保持 24h, 恢复室温后, 若产品无分层现象, 无漂油、 出水现象, 膏体细膩、 不粗糙, 则产品稳定性较好, 反之, 则产品稳定性较差; 光泽度评价则是用肉眼观察 产品的外观, 若细膩明亮, 则光泽度较好, 反之, 则光泽度较差; 而对于粘 度及铺展性的评价, 是指产品铺展均勾, 无聚集现象, 粉底无起粉现象, 铺 展后 W/0粒子在揉搓下迅速破裂, 为皮肤释放水分并在皮肤表面形成油性膜, 则说明产品的粘度适中、 铺展性好, 反之, 则粘度不符合要求, 不易铺展。 表 1 -不同配方粉底霜組合物的性能评价结果
编号 冻融循环下保 45°C下保存 光泽度 粘度、 铺展 使用感官 持 24h 30天 性
A 稳定 稳定 光泽度好 铺展好 无油膩感
B 稳定 稳定 光泽度好 铺展好 油腻感不强
C 稳、定、 细膩 稳定 细膩光亮 铺展好 无油膩感
D 非常稳定、 细 非常稳定 细膩光亮 粘度适中、 清爽、 无油 腻 铺展均匀 膩感
E 稳、定、 细膩 稳定 细膩光亮 铺展好 清爽、 无油 膩感
F 非常稳定、 细 非常稳定 细膩光亮 粘度适中、 清爽、 无油 腻 铺展均匀 膩感
G 非常稳定、 细 非常稳定 细膩光亮 粘度适中、 清爽、 无油 腻 铺展均匀 膩感
H 无法轧化、 立刻分层
I 出水、 分层 不稳定 暗淡 粘稠、 不易 油腻
铺展
J 无法轧化、 立刻分层
K 膏体粗糙 一般 粗糙暗淡 粘度大、 铺 油腻
展不均匀 L 一般 出油 暗淡 粘度大、 不 油腻 易铺展
M 膏体粗糙 一般 粗糙 粘度大、 铺 油腻 展不均匀 结果表明, 本发明实施例 1 -7所得编号 A-G粉底霜組合物样品不仅能够 在 45°C下保存 30天具有良好的稳定性, 并在冻融循环 (_5°C—- 1 5°C ) 下保 持 24h, 恢复室温, 所述粉底霜組合物仍保持较好的稳定性, 尤其对于样品 E-G , 还同时具有细膩光亮的外观、 适中的粘度及均匀的铺展性, 施用于皮肤 时感觉清爽、 无油膩感; 而对于样品 H , 虽然采用本发明所述单一轧化剂, 但 由于轧化剂含量过少, 在轧化阶段即较难轧化, 轧液立刻分层, 无法形成 W/0 轧状液。 对于样品 卜 J , 采用的轧化剂虽然是烷基 /聚醚-二甲基硅氧烷共聚物, 但其结构中 a、 b、 m、 n、 o 的取值超出本发明所述轧化剂中对上述各参数的 限定, 在制备油包水粉底霜时, 无法进行完全轧化, 得到粉底霜的粘度低, 并且立刻分层。 编号 K-M的样品是采用其他单一轧化剂制备的粉底霜組合物样品 ,评价 结果显示: 即使采用与本发明实施例 1 完全相同的配比組成, 当使用不同结 构的单一轧化剂, 获得的粉底霜膏体仍较为粗糙, 冷冻及存放稳定性不佳, 同时在外观看起来较暗淡、 粘度大, 使用时不易铺展, 不均勾, 施用于皮肤 感觉油膩不清爽。 显然, 上述实施例仅仅是为清楚地说明所作的举例, 而并非对实施方式的 限定。 对于所属领域的普通技术人员来说, 在上述说明的基础上还可以做出 其它不同形式的变化或变动。 这里无需也无法对所有的实施方式予以穷举。 而由此所引伸出的显而易见的变化或变动仍处于本发明创造的保护范围之 中。

Claims

权 利 要 求 书
1. 一种油包水型粉底霜組合物, 其特征在于, 所述粉底霜組合物中各原 料組分的质量百分含量如下:
轧化剂 0.3-5wt%; 油相 10-40 wt%;
疏水性粉底颜料 5-10 wt%; 水相添力口剂 0.5-10 wt%; 香精和 /或防腐剂 0.1-0.4 wt%;
水相 剩余量;
所述轧化剂为具有如下所示结构的烷基 / '聚醚-二甲基硅氧烷共聚物:
Figure imgf000016_0001
其中, a为 10-15的整数, b为 8-10的整数, m为 10-100的整数, n为 2-15的整数, o为 33-180的整数。
2. 如权利要求 1所述的油包水型粉底霜組合物, 其特征在于, 所述粉底 霜組合物中各原料組分的质量百分含量如下:
烷基 /聚醚-二甲基硅氧烷共聚物 2.5-4 wt%;
油相 20-30 wt%;
疏水性粉底颜料 6-8 wt%;
水相添加剂 3-8 wt%;
香精和 /或防腐剂 0.2-0.4 wt%;
水相 剩余量。
3. 如权利要求 1 或 2所述的油包水型粉底霜組合物, 其特征在于, 所述 烷基 /聚醚 -二甲基硅氧烷共聚物中, a为 12-15的整数, b为 8-10的整数, m 为 10-50的整数, n为 2-8的整数, o为 50-120的整数。
4. 如权利要求 1-3任一所述的油包水型粉底霜組合物,其特征在于, m:n 为 3:1—7:1, o: (m+n)为 1.5:1—8:1。
5.根据权利要求 4所述的油包水型粉底霜組合物, 其特征在于, m:n为 4.5:1-7:1 , o: (m+n) 为 2.5:1—8:1。
6. 如权利要求 1-5任一所述的油包水型粉底霜組合物, 其特征在于, 所 述油相为硅基油相和 /或碳基油相。
7. 如权利要求 6所述的油包水型粉底霜組合物, 其特征在于, 所述硅基 油相为六甲基三硅氧烷、 十甲基四硅氧烷、 八甲基环四硅氧烷、 十甲基环五 硅氧烷、 十二甲基环六硅氧烷、 粘度为 50cst-120cst的二甲基硅氧烷中的一 种或几种的混合物; 所述碳基油相为异十二烷、 异十六烷、 矿物油、 肉豆蔻 酸异丙酯、 月桂酸己酯中的一种或几种的混合物。
8. 如权利要求 1-7任一所述的油包水型粉底霜組合物, 其特征在于, 所 述疏水性粉底颜料为滑石粉、 二氧化硅、 二氧化钛、 氧化铁、 氧化锆、 珍珠 粉中的一种或几种的混合物。
9. 如权利要求 1-8任一所述的油包水型粉底霜組合物, 其特征在于, 所 述水相添加剂为七水合硫酸锾、 氯化钠、 甘油、 十四酸异丙醇、 1, 2-丙二醇, 1, 3-丁二醇中的一种或几种的混合物。
10. 一种如权利要求 1-9任一所述的油包水型粉底霜組合物的制备方法, 其包括如下步骤:
(1) 按选定重量份称取所述轧化剂、 油相、 疏水性粉底颜料并进行混合 均匀, 作为 A相;
(2) 按选定重量份称取所述水相和水相添加剂并进行混合均勾, 作为 B 相; (3) 将所述 A相、 B相分别加热至 40±2°C, 在搅拌条件下将所述 B相 滴加到所述 A相中, 并进行均质处理, 冷却到室温, 加入所述香精和 /或防腐 剂, 混合均匀, 出料即得。
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