WO2013164791A1

WO2013164791A1 - Interlaced composite yarn

Info

Publication number: WO2013164791A1
Application number: PCT/IB2013/053493
Authority: WO
Inventors: Roberto GORGAINI
Original assignee: Nytex S.R.L.
Priority date: 2012-05-03
Filing date: 2013-05-02
Publication date: 2013-11-07
Also published as: WO2013164791A4; EP2844789A1

Abstract

The interlaced composite yarn, in particular for making velvet fabrics and the like, comprises a first rigid textile yarn, a second elastomeric yarn and a third textured nylon yarn, interlaced through the simultaneous feed to an air jet interlacing device. The first rigid textile yarn has filaments folded up on themselves, so as to give said composite yarn a velvet effect.

Description

INTERLACED COMPOSITE YARN

Technical Field

[01 ] The present invention concerns an interlaced composite yarn, in particular for making terry fabrics, velvet fabrics and the like, and a method for producing such composite yarn.

Background Art

[02] It has been known that composite yarns are usually used for the production of fabrics, for example made of an internal elastic yarn, in particular an elastomer, which is externally covered by a covering yarn having less elasticity, such as nylon, polyester, or polypropylene and the like.

[03] For making such composite yarns, the process known as interlacing has often been used, substantially providing to make both yarns, that is the elastomeric yarn and the covering yarn, passing in a device for reciprocal union through an air jet, usually called interlacing air jet. Such device comprises a nozzle, which emits a compressed air jet in a duct, through which the elastomeric yarn and the covering yarn pass. The turbulence produced by the air jet compressed inside the duct produces the interlacing of the fibres of the two yarns. Interlacing process and devices based on such technology are disclosed in patents no. US 4,829,757, US 5,008,992, US 6,393,817.

[04] In practice, in the apparatus which produces the composite yarn, the elastomeric and the covering yarn are unwound in a continual manner from respective coils and are fed to the interlacing air jet through a path shaped by a series of drawing and stretching rolls.

[05] According to a known technique, the covering yarn is previously submitted to a thermo mechanic texturing process, suitable to make the yarns acquire more elasticity and volume. The textured covering yarn is collected in suitable coils provided for being used in the apparatuses in which the interlacing through elastomeric yarn is made.

[06] In the specific field, it has been known the need of producing terry fabrics, which are able to absorb a relatively great quantity of water as well as the need of making the fabric more soft and fluffy. As a matter of fact, terry fabric has a warp made of yarn rings which give the fabric the ability of holding back water. More in particular, such kind of fabric is usually produced through the making of a double warp. In fact, a first background warp is provided, representing the base of the fabric, while a second curled warp is made on such first warp, forming the surface made of yarn rings.

[07] It is as well known the exigency to produce velvet fabrics, provided with a particularly soft and pleasant hand. Such fabrics are suitable for tailoring clothes which are in contact with skin, such as stockings, underwear and the like, and which consequently must be provided also with elasticity and endurance for being easily put on. [08] It is currently possible to obtain, through apparatuses existing in the field, a fabric provided with velvet, fleece or terry effect. In particular, such effect is obtained mechanically, during the production of the fabric.

[09] According to a known solution, the yarn is picked up by a needle and then held back by a platen, thus creating a little bend, which produces a terry effect on the fabric.

[10] According to another known solution, a fleece effect is obtained by creating a plotted bend between two needles, or between a needle with platen and a needle, by inserting a further yarn for creating such effect.

[1 1 ] A further mechanic known solution, traditionally called three-thread fleece, provides to prearrange two plated yarns between the needles and to insert one yarn for creating said effect around one needle in three, with the possibility of holding back the yarn through the platens.

[12] Patent application no. EP 1 350 872 A1 discloses a composite yarn comprising an elastic yarn and hydrophilic fibres substantially placed at the centre of the yarn inside a matrix of hydrophobic fibres, with the hydrophobic fibres concentrated at the periphery of the yarn; in a transition zone between the hydrophilic fibres embedded on the elastic yarn at the centre of the yarn and the hydrophobic peripheral fibres, both the hydrophilic fibres and the hydrophobic fibres are present.

[13] Nevertheless, known solutions do not completely satisfy the exigencies of the users. In particular, the thickness and the diameter obtained through circular apparatuses for terry working are complained. The difficulty in obtaining fabrics comfortable and easy to put on is also complained, in fact the size is often reduced for product shape exigencies as well as for problems connected with the weight of fabrics which can be obtained through circular apparatuses for working terry or velvet fabrics.

Disclosure

[14] The task of the present invention is that of solving the aforementioned problems, devising a new interlaced composite yarn, particularly suitable for making terry fabrics, velvet fabrics and the like.

[15] Within such task, it is a further scope of the present invention that of providing an interlaced composite yarn having great elasticity and endurance.

[16] Another scope of the present invention is that of providing an interlaced composite yarn which allows to produce fabrics provided with a great effect of velvet, or micro terry or fleece hand, using the circular existing apparatuses, without the help of platens for holding back the knit, without plating the yarns and without inserting further yarns.

[17] A further scope of the present invention is that of providing a composite interlaced yarn which allows to obtain a fabric having a particular effect of velvet, terry or fleece hand, not only where the knit is produced but also on the whole surface of the fabric. [18] Another scope of the present invention is that of providing a composite yarn having a simple conception, a versatile use as well as a relatively low cost.

[19] The cited scopes are attained, according to the present invention, by the interlaced composite yarn according to claim 1 .

[20] According to the present invention the interlaced composite yarn comprises a first rigid textile yarn, a second elastomeric yarn and a third textured nylon or the like yarn, which are interlaced through the simultaneous feed to an air jet interlacing device.

[21 ] Preferably, the first rigid textile yarn has filaments folded up on themselves, so as to give said composite yarn a velvet effect.

[22] In particular, the interlaced composite yarn, according to the present invention, has a series of arcs of said first rigid textile yarn on its whole length, due to an overfeed of said first rigid textile yarn during said simultaneous feed to said air jet interlacing device.

[23] Preferably the mass proportion of said first rigid textile yarn is more than 50%, the mass proportion of said second elastomeric yarn is less than 17% and the mass proportion of said third textured nylon yarn is less than 40%.

[24] In particular, preferably the mass proportion of said first rigid textile yarn is comprised between 55% and 77%, the mass proportion of said second elastomeric yarn is comprised between 6% and 17% and the mass proportion of said third textured nylon yarn is comprised between 16% and 40%.

[25] In particular, the first rigid textile yarn is an air textured yarn.

[26] Preferably said first air textured yarn has a title equal to dtex 36.

[27] Preferably the first textile yarn is a nylon or polyester air textured yarn.

[28] Alternatively, the first textile yarn is a yarn of nylon or polyester with drawn fibres having dry or moist residual elongation very low or equal to zero.

[29] Preferably the second elastomeric yarn is an elastan or Lycra yarn.

[30] Preferably said first rigid textile yarn and/or said third textured nylon yarn are obtained from microfibre yarns or multifibre yarns.

[31 ] According to the present invention, the composite yarn has a title comprised between dtex

40 and dtex 200.

[32] The present invention concerns as well a method for the production of interlaced yarns which provides to simultaneously feed to an air jet interlacing device said first rigid yarn, said second elastomeric yarn and said third textured nylon yarn or similar.

Description of Drawings

[33] Details of the invention shall be more apparent from the detailed description of a preferred embodiment of the interlaced composite yarn according to the invention, illustrated for indicative purposes in the attached drawings, wherein: figure 1 shows a schematic view of a machine for producing interlacing composite yarn according to the invention;

figures 2 and 3 show a schematic view of a different apparatus for the production of the interlaced composite yarn according to the invention;

figures 4 and 5 schematically show the yarn object of the invention;

figure 6 shows a schematic view of a further apparatus for producing the interlaced composite yarn object of the invention.

Best Mode

With particular reference to figure 1 , the interlacing air jet device, also known as interlacing air-jet, mounted in an apparatus for producing interlaced yarns, of the type usually called "Combi" is indicated with 1. A "Combi" apparatus is provided with a texturing device 2, suitable to enable the performing of both interlacing and texturing in a combined manner. The texturing device 2 is for example of the type which works through false twist, in which the yarn is given a twisting, a heat fixing and an untwisting; the thermal memory of the fixing gives each single bave of the yarn a wavy structure.

The interlaced composite yarn according to the present invention comprises a first rigid textile yarn 10, a second elastomeric yarn 20 and a third suitably textured nylon or similar yarn 30, which are interlaced through the simultaneous feed to the air jet interlacing device 1 .

Preferably the mass proportion of the first rigid textile yarn is more than 50%, the mass proportion of the second elastomeric yarn is less than 17% and the mass proportion of the third textured nylon yarn is less than 40%.

Preferably the first yarn 10 is an air textured yarn, of the type also known as Taslan (DuPont trademark). More generally, the first yarn 10 is obtained from a yarn of polyamide, polyester, polypropylene and the like, which fibres have been altered by the air jet texturing process, known as Taslan, or altered by a process of dry or moist drawing and a temperature suitable to obtain a residual dry or moist stretching very reduced or equal to zero. The linear density of the fibres, that is the title of the first yarn, is preferably comprised between dtex 40 and dtex 200. For example, the nylon yarn is of nylon 66 type, but it is possible to provide the use of any other nylon type, such as for example the nylon 6. The first rigid yarn has a linear density, that is a title, preferably comprised between dtex 21 and dtex 94.

The Taslan yarn is obtained from yarns partially drawn in the spinning step, known as POY (Partially Oriented Yarns). Such POY yarn is subsequently heated, drawn, wet and interlaced in the air jet interlacing device. According to the present invention, it is possible to provide that the air jet textured yarn is obtained from a single POY yarn or alternatively from two POY yarns which are simultaneously worked through the above mentioned process. It is to be observed that it is possible to provide that the Taslan yarn is obtained from microfibre yarns, that is yarns composed by filaments having a title less or equal to dtex 1 or multifibre, that is yarn composed by filaments having a title comprised between dtex 1 and dtex 2. Obviously, the use of microfibre or multifibre yarns will have an incidence on the title of the Taslan yarn.

The Taslan yarn is preferably obtained from a single POY yarn, the title of which is modified during the working. More precisely the working causes a decrease of the title of the filament. For example, starting from a POY yarn having a title equal to dtex 44 it is possible to obtain a Taslan yarn having a title equal to dtex 36. It is to be underlined that it is not currently known on the market a yarn provided with such characteristics.

It is important to observe that such working of the yarn does not cause the breaking of any of the filaments which compose the POY yarns. The result is a rigid textile yarn, the filaments being folded on themselves and therefore provided with velvet effect. During the forming of the interlaced composite yarn object of the present invention, the rigid yarn is overfed in a forced manner. Such forced overfeed allows to obtain an interlaced composite yarn provided with rigid arcs of yarn on its whole length. The presence of such Taslan arcs gives the fabric a great velvet effect on its whole surface, as well as a greater endurance. The second yarn 20 is obtained preferably from an elastomer for example of the type known with the commercial name of Lycra (DuPont trademark). More generally, the second elastomeric yarn 20 is preferably obtained from elastan of any type, such as for example basic, dyeable, thermal or not. The title of the second elastomeric yarn 20 is preferably comprised between dtex 13 and dtex 44.

It is important to observe that the nature of the elastomeric yarn mainly affects the elasticity of the interlaced composite yarn according to the invention, and it widens the characteristics of the final produced fabric. It is moreover to be pointed out that in the working of the interlaced composite yarn according to the invention, the elastomeric yarn is drawn. Such process causes a noticeable decrease of the title of the same elastomeric yarn. The result is that the nature of the elastomeric yarn used affects the final title according to the drawing and to the firstly used title.

The third yarn 30 is preferably obtained from a polyamide yarn such as nylon, polyester, polypropylene and the like undergone to a suitable thermo mechanical texturing process. More in particular, the third textured nylon yarn 30 is obtained from a POY yarn, preferably of nylon 66. Anyway it is possible to provide the use of any type of nylon. The title of the third textured nylon yarn 30 is preferably comprised between dtex 13 and dtex 78. As it was said for the Taslan yarn, it is possible to provide that the textured yarn is obtained from microfibre yarns, that is yarns composed by filaments having a title less or equal to dtex 1 , or multifibre, that is yarns composed by filaments having a title comprised between dtex 1 and dtex 2. In particular, the choice between a microfibre yarn and a multifibre yarn depends on title exigencies of the textured yarn, or on exigencies of number of filaments which compose the yarn. For example, it is possible to use a nylon microfibre yarn composed by 34 filaments and having a title equal to dtex 33. An example is a multifibre yarn composed by 10 filaments, and having a title equal to dtex 13. For obtaining the third textured nylon yarn 30 from the used POY yarn, this latter is heated, drawn and twisted. Such working allows to obtain an elastic yarn.

The method for making the interlaced composite yarn according to the present invention is described in the following.

With reference to the Combi apparatus of figure 1 , the first Taslan yarn 10 is unwound in a continual manner from a spool 1 1 , along a path which is shaped by a series of rolls 12 and crosses a sensor 13 for sensing the presence of the yarn. The Taslan yarn 10 winds on a master roll 3 of the apparatus. The second elastomeric yarn 20 unwinds in a continual manner from a spool 21 by means of a feeding and drawing roller 22. The elastomeric yarn 20 also winds on the master roll 3 of the apparatus.

The third nylon or the like yarn 30 unwinds in a continual manner from a spool 31 , along a path defined by a series of rolls 32. The nylon yarn 30 engages in sequence, along the cited path, a drawing roller 33 and an oven 34, of the oil-immersed bath or electric type, for controlling the temperature in the texturing step 2. The nylon yarn 30 then passes through the texturing device 2, provided with a sensor 35 for sensing the presence of yarn. The textured yarn 30 also winds on the master roll 3 of the apparatus.

At the exit from the master roll 3, the yarns 10, 20, and 30 are simultaneously fed to the interlacing jet 1 . At the interlacing jet device 1 , the interlacing of the fibres of the yarns is performed in known manner. The so obtained interlaced yarn 40 is then wound on a collecting spool 41 .

In figure 2, a different embodiment of the interlaced composite yarn according to the present invention is shown, which uses an apparatus for producing yarns which is not provided which a texturing device, and which uses, instead, readymade yarns.

In this case, the apparatus is provided with a spool 31 of already textured nylon yarn. The Taslan yarn 10 and the textured nylon yarn 30 are fed to the interlacing jet 1 through overfeeding rolls 5, 6. The elastomeric yarn 20 is directly fed to the interlacing jet 1 . At the exit from the interlacing jet 1 , the interlaced yarn 40 is wound on a pre-collection roll 4 and later it is wound on a collecting spool 41 .

Alternatively it is possible to provide that the Taslan yarn 10 and the nylon textured yarn 30 are fed to the interlacing jet 1 through a single overfeeding roll 5, as it is shown in figure 3. In figure 6 a further embodiment of the interlaced composite yarn according to the present invention in shown, in which the yarn coming out from the master roll 3 and the textured nylon yarn 30 are fed to the interlacing jet 1 . The Taslan yarn 10 and the elastan yarn 20 are fed to the master roll 3. The Taslan yarn 10 comes from a coil 1 1 of extruded yarn which unwinds passing through the heated drawing rolls 14 and crosses an air jet texturing device 15, so called Airtex; the elastan yarn 20 unwinds in a continual manner from the spool 21 by means of the drawing and feeding roll. The nylon textured yarn 30 unwinds in a continual manner from the spool 31 and crosses a feeding device 36 with voltage control. When coming out from the interlacing jet, the interlaced yarn 40 is wound on the pre-collection roll 4 and then it is wound on the collecting spool 41 .

The described method allows to perform in an easy way the production of brand new interlaced yarns, which are particularly suitable for producing terry, velvet and similar fabrics. As a matter of fact, the so obtained yarn is able to create a terry and velvet internal and external effect in fabrics produced by means of an usual rectilinear or circular textile apparatus.

The so obtained interlaced yarn can be used for the production of fabrics with circular apparatuses of the traditional type, in other words it does not require the use of apparatuses specific for the production of terry fabrics. In particular in the circular apparatus, the fabric is usually obtained with a front and a back yarn. According to the front or back insertion of the yarn, because of its composition, different reactions are produced in the final fabric, according to the distance among the needles of the circular apparatus and to the thickness of the used needles.

Once come out from the apparatus, the different components of the fabric shrink in different manners. In particular, the elastomeric yarn shrinks because of the drawing performed during production and the textured nylon yarn shrinks because of a peculiar characteristic of such kind of yarn, while the air jet textured yarn does not shrink, thus creating an adjustment curve, that is the forming of curls, as it is schematically shown in figure 4 in which the internal or external fabric is indicated with 50.

In figure 5, it is schematically shown how the shrinking looks in a fabric having the interlaced yarn object of the invention as sole yarn.

Another characteristic of the so obtained yarn is that of being also able to ease the dyeing process according to the chosen combination. As a matter of fact, a combination of nylon Taslan, elastomer and textured yarn requires a single dyeing for obtaining the desired colour, since such components can be dyed through the same chemical compound. Vice versa, the polypropylene cannot be dyed, while polyester and polyamide can be dyed but not in the same dyeing.

Generally, it is important to observe that the composite yarn object of the present invention comprises predetermined mass proportions of each yarn. In particular, as it was mentioned before, the mass proportion of the first rigid textile yarn is more than 50%, the mass proportion of the second elastomeric yarn is less than 17% and the mass proportion of the third textured nylon yarn is less than 40%.

[62] More precisely, the mass proportion of the first rigid yarn is comprised between 50% and 77%, the mass proportion of the second elastomeric yarn is comprised between 6% and 17% and the mass proportion of the third textured nylon yarn is comprised between 16% and 40%. Such proportions are respected notwithstanding the modifications eligible for producing the composite yarn according to the invention, being the modifications obtained by modifying the nature of the used yarns, and consequently their title, as disclosed in the following examples.

Example 1

[63] The composite yarn according to the invention comprises a Taslan yarn having a title equal to dtex 51 , composed by two POY yarns, a dyeable elastan yarn having a title of dtex 22 and a textured nylon yarn having a title equal to dtex 33. More in particular, the Taslan yarn includes a central yarn composed by ten filaments and having a title equal to dtex 17 and a covering yarn composed by thirty-four filaments and having a title equal to dtex 44 before the working, and the textured nylon yarn is composed of thirty-four microfibre filaments. In such embodiment of the composite yarn according to the invention, the mass proportion of the Taslan yarn is equal to 55%, the mass proportion of the elastan is equal to 8%, and the mass proportion of the textured nylon yarn is equal to 37%. The final title of the composite yarn is substantially equal to dtex 92.

Example 2

[64] The composite yarn according to the invention comprises a Taslan yarn having a title equal to dtex 36, composed by a single POY yarn, a dyeable elastan yarn having a title equal to dtex 22 and a textured nylon yarn having a title equal to dtex 13. More in particular, the POY yarn, which composes the Taslan yarn, is composed by thirty-four filaments and has a title equal to dtex 44 before the working, and the textured nylon yarn is composed of ten multifibre filaments. In such embodiment of the composite yarn according to the invention, the mass proportion of the Taslan yarn is equal to 64%, the mass proportion of the elastan is equal to 13%, and the mass proportion of the textured nylon yarn is equal to 23%. The final title of the composite yarn according to the present example is substantially equal to dtex 56.

Example 3

[65] The composite yarn according to the invention comprises a Taslan yarn having a title equal to dtex 36, composed by a single POY yarn, a Lycra thermal yarn having a title equal to dtex 20, and a textured nylon yarn having a title equal to dtex 13. More in particular, the POY yarn, which composes the Taslan yarn, is composed by thirty-four filaments and has a title equal to dtex 44 before the working, and the textured nylon yarn is composed of ten multifibre filaments. In such embodiment of the composite yarn according to the invention, the mass proportion of the Taslan yarn is equal to 64%, the mass proportion of the elastan is equal to 13%, and the mass proportion of the textured nylon yarn is equal to 23%. The final title of the composite yarn according to the present example is substantially equal to dtex 56.

The interlaced composite yarn according to the invention results particularly suitable for producing velvet fabrics. Such result is obtained thanks to the inventive idea of providing a yarn having a sequence of arcs of rigid yarn which fibres are folded up on themselves. Such arcs are the result of the overfeed of the rigid yarn during the production of the interlaced composite yarn.

The interlaced composite yarn is provided as well with noticeable elasticity and endurance characteristics, thanks to the inventive idea of interlacing a first rigid yarn, a second elastomeric yarn and a third textured nylon yarn through the simultaneous feed to an air jet interlacing device.

By using the interlaced composite yarn object of the present invention, it is possible to produce fabrics provided with a great hand effect of velvet, micro terry or fleece by using the already existing circular machines. As a matter of fact, the needles of such apparatuses cause a twisting of bights of the composite yarn. Such bights twisting combined with the presence of arcs of rigid yarn with fibres folded up on themselves gives the fabric a great velvet effect on the whole surface. It has to be noted that such velvet effect is obtained without the help of platens for holding back the knit, and without plating yarns or without inserting further yarns.

The interlaced composite yarn described for indicative purpose and the method for obtaining it are susceptible of numerous modifications and variants according to the different exigencies.

Should the technical characteristics mentioned in each claim be followed by reference signs, such reference signs were included strictly with the aim of enhancing the understanding of the claims and hence they shall not be deemed restrictive in any manner whatsoever on the scope of each element identified for exemplifying purposes by such reference signs.

Claims

1 . Interlaced composite yarn, in particular for making terry or velvet fabrics, comprising a first rigid textile yarn (10), a second elastomeric yarn (20) and a third textured nylon or similar yarn (30), interlaced through simultaneous feed to an air jet interlacing device (1 ), wherein said first rigid textile yarn (10) has filaments folded up on themselves, such as to confer said composite yarn a velvet effect.

2. Composite yarn according to claim 1 , characterized in that it has a succession of arch- shaped curves of said first rigid textile yarn (10) on its whole length, due to an overfeed of said first rigid textile yarn (10) during said simultaneous feed to said air jet interlacing device (1 )-

3. Composite yarn according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the mass proportion of said first rigid textile yarn (10) is more than 50%, the mass proportion of said second elastomeric yarn (20) is less than 17% and the mass proportion of said third textured nylon yarn (30) is less than 40%.

4. Composite yarn according to claim 1 or 3, characterized in that said first rigid textile yarn (10) is an air textured yarn.

5. Composite yarn according to claim 4, characterized in that said air textured yarn (10) has a title equal to dtex 36.

6. Composite yarn according to claim 1 or 3, characterized in that said second elastomeric yarn (20) is an elastan or Lycra yarn.

7. Composite yarn according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the mass proportion of said first rigid textile yarn (10) is comprised between 55% and 77%, the mass proportion of said second elastomeric yarn (20) is comprised between 6% and 17% and the mass proportion of said third textured nylon yarn (30) is comprised 25 between 16% and 40%.

8. Composite yarn according to any one of the previous claims, characterized in that said first rigid textile yarn (10) and/or said third textured nylon yarn (30) are obtained from microfibre yarns or from multifibre yarns.

9. Composite yarn according to any one of the previous claims, characterized in that it presents a title comprised between dtex 40 and dtex 200.

10. Use of an interlaced composite yarn according to one of the previous claims for making fabrics having a velvet effect.

1 1 . Method of making interlaced yarns, characterized in that it provides for simultaneously feeding to an air jet interlacing device (1 ) a first rigid textile yarn (10), a second elastomeric yarn (20) and a third textured yarn (30) made of nylon or similar.