WO2013098208A1 - Oxidative dyeing composition - Google Patents

Oxidative dyeing composition Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013098208A1
WO2013098208A1 PCT/EP2012/076476 EP2012076476W WO2013098208A1 WO 2013098208 A1 WO2013098208 A1 WO 2013098208A1 EP 2012076476 W EP2012076476 W EP 2012076476W WO 2013098208 A1 WO2013098208 A1 WO 2013098208A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
composition according
oat
hair
avena sativa
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2012/076476
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Jürgen Ehmig
Sandra Schmelz
Martin Uellner
Original Assignee
Kao Germany Gmbh
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Kao Germany Gmbh filed Critical Kao Germany Gmbh
Priority to EP12805718.9A priority Critical patent/EP2797578A1/en
Priority to US14/368,696 priority patent/US20150013711A1/en
Publication of WO2013098208A1 publication Critical patent/WO2013098208A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D7/00Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
    • A45D7/04Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair chemical
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432Direct dyes
    • A61K2800/4324Direct dyes in preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/75Anti-irritant

Definitions

  • Present invention relates to an oxidative dyeing composition having especially mild properties to the scalp.
  • Oxidative hair dyeing is carried out using oxidative dyes in the presence of oxidizing agent under weak to strong alkaline conditions. It is common to use ammonium hydroxide in such compositions. However, it has a strong disturbing smell and there has always been a desire to use alkalizing agents which does not have such disturbing smell.
  • Alkyl or alkanol amine type of alkalizing agents has also been used instead of ammonium hydroxide as an alkalizing agent despite some drawbacks in dyeing effect. Additionally it has been observed that the use of alkyl or alkanolamine type of alkalizing agent has brought further drawbacks on mildness of the compositions.
  • Present invention aims at providing an oxidative dyeing composition with acceptable mildness on scalp.
  • an oxidative hair dyeing composition comprising Avena sativa (oat) meal extract is especially mild to scalp.
  • Avena sativa (oat) meal extract has been used in scalp care and conditioning compositions. It has never been suggested that it may improve mildness of an oxidative dyeing composition which has slight to strong alkaline pH.
  • the first object of the present invention is an oxidative dyeing composition for hair comprising at least one dyestuff and Avena sativa (oat) meal extract.
  • the second object of the present invention is the use of the composition for colouring hair.
  • the third object of the present invention is the method of colouring hair wherein a composition according to present invention is mixed with another composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent and applied onto hair and after processing 1 to 45 min rinsed off from hair.
  • compositions of the present invention are in general mild to strong alkaline, it may be that Avena sativa (oat) meal extract does not have the optimum long term stability under such conditions so that in order to secure the optimum benefits of the presence of Avena sativa (oat) meal extract it may become necessary that Avena sativa (oat) meal extract is added prior to use to a composition comprising at least one oxidative dyestuff and oxidizing agent.
  • the fourth object of the present invention is that a method for colouring hair wherein Avena sativa (oat) meal extract is added to a composition obtained by mixing the composition of the present invention but not comprising Avena sativa (oat) meal extract and a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent and applied onto hair and after processing of 1 to 45 min rinsed off from hair.
  • kits for colouring hair comprising two or more compositions wherein one of the compositions comprises at least one dyestuff and Avena sativa (oat) meal extract and another composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent.
  • the kit can comprise a third composition which comprises Avena sativa (oat) meal extract.
  • compositions of the present invention preferably an aqueous composition and comprises at least 45%, preferably in the range of 50 to 90% and more preferably in the range of 55 and 85% and most preferably in the range of 60 to 80% by weight water calculated to the total composition.
  • compositions of the present invention comprise at least one dyestuff selected from oxidative dyestuffs precursors and direct dyes.
  • Suitable oxidative dyestuffs precursors are tetraaminopyrimidines, in particular 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and the lower alkyl derivatives thereof;
  • suitable triaminohydroxypyrimidines are, for example 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6- triaminopyrimidine and 5-hydroxy-2,4,6-triaminopyrimidine;
  • suitable mono- and diamino dihydroxypyrimidines are, for example, 2,6-dihydroxy-4,5- diaminopyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxy-pyrimidine or 4,6-dihydroxy-2,5- diaminopyrimidine or the water-soluble salts thereof, aminophenol derivatives such as 4-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-chloro-4-amin
  • composition according to the invention optionally but preferably comprises at least one coupling substance, which can be selected from resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-amino-4-chlorophenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2- methylphenol, 3-amino-phenol, 1 -methyl-2-hydroxy-4-aminobenzene, 3-N,N- dimethyl aminophenol, 2.6-dihydroxy-3.5-dimethoxypyridine, 5-amino-3- methylphenol, 6-amino-3-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6- methoxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxy-pyridine, 2-dimethyl-amino-5-aminopyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 1 ,3-diamino- benzene, 1 -amino-3-(2'-hy- droxyethylamino)benzene, 1 -amino-3-[bis(
  • composition comprise additionally at least one coupling agent.
  • the weight proportion of the developing substances to the coupling substances ranges between about 1 : 8 to 8 : 1 , preferably about 1 : 5 to 5 : 1 , in particular 1 : 2 to 2 : 1 .
  • the composition of the present invention comprises direct dyes of neutral, cationic and anionic character.
  • suitable cationic dyes are Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41 , Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 4, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Natural Brown 7, Basic Green 1 , Basic Red 2, Basic Red 12 Basic Red 22, Basic Red 51 , Basic Red 76, Basic Violet 1 , Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic yellow 87 and Basic orange 31 .
  • suitable cationic dyestuffs are in principal those any available on the market for cosmetic hair colouring applications.
  • special reference is made to the PCT application WO 95/15144 of Ciba-Geigy AG.
  • the content of the PCT application WO 95/15144 is by reference incorporated here.
  • Examples to suitable direct acting anionic dyes are Acid Black 1 , Acid Blue 1 , Acid Blue 3, Food Blue 5, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 74, Acid Orange 3, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Red 1 , Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 50, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 88, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 155, Acid Red 180, Acid Violet 9, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Yellow 1 , Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 3, Food Yellow No. 8, D&C Brown No. 1 , D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 8, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 1 1 , D&C Red No. 21 , D&C Red No.
  • Additional suitable direct dyes are of the following chemical structures.
  • HC dyes so called nitro dyes
  • Plant dyestuffs can also be used alone or in combination with synthetic direct- acting dyestuffs, for example henna (red or black), alkanna root, laccaic acid, indigo, logwood powder, madder root and rhubarb powder, etc.
  • henna red or black
  • alkanna root laccaic acid
  • indigo indigo
  • the coloring composition comprises hair dyes at a total concentration of 0.001 to 15%, preferably 0.01 to 12.5%, more preferably 0.05 to 10%, most preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight calculated to total composition.
  • compositions of the present invention comprise Avena sativa (oat) meal extract.
  • the extracts comprising at least one polyol preferably selected form butylene glycol, propylene glycol and glycerine.
  • Such extracts are available commercially from such as Kao Corporation, Active Organics Inc. and Laboratoires Phytocos.
  • Compositions comprise Avena sativa (oat) meal extract at a total concentration of 0.0001 to 5%, preferably 0.001 to 4%, more preferably 0.005 to 3% and most preferably 0.01 to 2.5% and in particular 0.02 to 1 .5% by weight calculated to the total composition based on the dry weight of the extract.
  • compositions of the present invention are preferably emulsions and preferably comprise one or more fatty alcohol, preferably of the general formula
  • R 4 -OH wherein R 4 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain with 12 to 22 C atoms and at least one emulsifier preferably selected from anionic, non- ionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants.
  • Suitable fatty alcohols are myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and their mixtures. Most preferred is the mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol also known as cetearyl alcohol.
  • the concentration of one or more fatty alcohols is in the range of 1 to 25%, preferably 2.5 to 20%, more preferably 5 to 15% and most preferably 5 to 10% by weight calculated to total composition.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one surfactant, preferably selected from anionic, non-ionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants.
  • Preferred surfactants are anionic, non-ionic and cationic ones and especially preferred are anionic and/or non-ionic surfactants.
  • Preferred mixing ratio for the anionic - non-ionic emulsifying surfactant mixture is in the range of 5:1 to 1 :5, more preferably 3:1 to 1 :3 and especially 1 :1 , by weight. Particularly preferred are anionic surfactants.
  • anionic surfactant is suitable within the meaning of the present invention.
  • anionic surfactants of the sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate and alkyl phosphate type especially, of course, those customarily used as emulsifiers, for example, the known C 0 -Ci 8 -alkyl sulfates, and in particular the respective ether sulfates, for example, Ci 2 -Ci 4 -alkyl ether sulfate, lauryl ether sulfate, especially with 1 to 4 ethylene oxide groups in the molecule, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide sulfates obtained by ethoxylation and subsequent sulfatation of fatty acid alkanolamides, and the alkali salts thereof, as well as the salts of long-chain mono- and dialkyi phosphates and their salts.
  • Further suitable surfactants of the carboxylate type are alkyi
  • R 5 (C 2 H 4 0) n - O - CH 2 COOX, wherein R 5 is a C 8 -C 2 o-alkyl group, preferably a Ci 2 -Ci 4 -alkyl group, n is a number from 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 17, and X is H or preferably a cation of the group sodium, potassium, magnesium and ammonium, which can optionally be hydroxyalkyl-substituted, as well as alkyi amido polyether carboxylic acids of the general formula
  • R 5 and X have the above meanings, and n is in particular a number from 1 to 10, preferably 2.5 to 5.
  • anionic surfactants most preferred are alkyi sulfates and/or alkyi ether sulfates and among them sodium lauryl or laureth sulfates and their mixtures are most preferred.
  • Suitable non-ionic surfactants are alkyi polyglucosides of the general formula
  • R 6 - O - (R 7 0) n O - Z x wherein R 6 is an alkyi group with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, R 7 is an ethylene or propylene group, Z is a saccharide group with 5 to 6 carbon atoms, n is a number from 0 to 10 and x is a number between 1 and 5. Examples are decyl
  • nonionic surfactant components are, for example, long-chain fatty acid mono- and dialkanolamides, such as coco fatty acid monoethanolamide and myristic fatty acid monoethanolamide.
  • nonionic surfactants are, for example, the various sorbitan esters, such as polyethylene glycol sorbitan stearic acid ester, fatty acid polyglycol esters or poly-condensates of ethyleneoxide and propyleneoxide, as they are on the market, for example, under the trade name "Pluronics R ".
  • nonionic surfactants as emulsifiers useful in the compositions according to invention are C-i 0 -C 2 2-fatty alcohol ethoxylates.
  • C10-C-22- fatty alcohol ethers the alkyl polyglycol ethers known by the generic terms "Laureth”, “Myristeth”, “Oleth”, “Ceteth”, “Deceth”, “Steareth” and “Ceteareth” according to the CTFA nomenclature, including addition of the number of ethylene oxide molecules, e.g., "Laureth-16":
  • the average degree of ethoxylation thereby ranges between about 2.5 and about 25, preferably about 10 and about 20.
  • non-ionic surfactants mentioned above fatty alcohol ethoxylates and fatty acid alkanolamides and their mixtures at any weight ratio are the most preferred ones.
  • any mono alkyl quaternary ammonium surfactants is suitable for the compositions of the present invention as cationic emulsifying surfactant.
  • mono alkyl it is meant that quaternary ammonium surfactant includes only 1 alkyl chain which has more than 8 C atoms. The term does not exclude that the quaternary ammonium surfactant includes further short alkyl chains, Ci to C 4 , present in the molecule.
  • at least one mono alkyl quaternary ammonium surfactant is selected from the compounds with the general formula
  • R 8 is saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkyl chain with 8-22 C atoms or
  • R 12 CO NH (CH 2 ) n where R 12 IS saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkyl chain with 7-21 C atoms and n has typical value of 0 - 4 or
  • R 9 , R-m and Rn are independent from each other lower alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyl alky chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, or ethoxy or propoxy group with number of ethoxy or propoxy groups varying in the range of 1 to 4, and X is chloride, bromide or methosulfate.
  • Suitable cationic surfactants and or conditioning agents are, for example, long- chain quaternary ammonium compounds which can be used alone or in admixture with one another, such as cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, myristoyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, trimethyl cetyl
  • ammonium bromide stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stear trimonium chloride, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl trimonuim chloride.
  • compositions of the present are included into the compositions of the present at a total
  • concentration of 0.5 to 20%, preferably 1 to 15% and more preferably 1 .5 - 12.5%, and most preferably 2 to 10% by weight, calculated to the total
  • compositions of the present invention have a pH in the range of 6 to 12 and preferably 6.5 to 1 1 , more preferably 6.8 to 1 1 and most preferably 8 to 10.5 and in particular 9 to 10.
  • compositions are therefore comprised at least one alkalizing agent especially when the pH is in the neutral to alkaline range.
  • alkalizing agents are sodium hydroxide, ammonia or ammonium hydroxide and a compound according to the general formula wherein R ; R 2 and R 3 are same or different H, C1 - C6 alkyl, C1 - C6
  • R-i , R 2 and R 3 are same or different H, C1 - C4 alkyl, C1 - C4 monohydroxyalkyl or C2 - C4 polyhydroxyalkyl with the condition that at least one of R-i , R 2 and R 3 is a mono or polyhydroxyalkyl.
  • R-i , R 2 and R 3 are same or different H, C1 - C4 alkyl, C1 - C4 monohydroxyalkyl or C2 - C4 polyhydroxyalkyl with the condition that at least one of R-i , R 2 and R 3 is a mono or polyhydroxyalkyl.
  • monoethanolamine diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoethanol methylamine, monoethanoldimethylamine, di-ethanolmethylamine, monoethanolethylamine, monoethanoldiethylamine, diethanolethylamine, monoethanolpropylamine, monoethanoldipropylamine, diethanolpropylamine, monoethanolbutylamine and diethanolbutylamine.
  • oxidative dyeing compositions and/or ready to use oxidative dyeing compositions can comprise more than one alkanolamine such as a mixture of two or three alkanolamines.
  • the concentration of at least one alkalizing agent varies between 1 and 35%, preferably 1 and 30, more preferably 2.5 and 25 and most preferably 2.5 to 20% by weight calculated to the total composition.
  • Composition of the present invention comprises at least one oxidizing agent.
  • the oxidizing agents suitable are hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, melamin peroxide or perborate salts.
  • the preferred oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide, at a concentration in a range of 2 to 12 % by weight calculated to the total composition.
  • the kit of above preferably comprises an additional composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
  • the pH of the composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent is in the range of 2 to 5, preferably 2.5 to 4 and more preferably 3 to 4.
  • Preferred organopolysiloxane polymers are those of the type disclosed in
  • EP-A 640 643 in particular optionally quaternized aminoalkyl, in particular aminopropyl dimethyl polysiloxane/polyethyl oxazoline copolymers of the formula
  • m and n each are numbers from 20 to 10,000, in particular 50 to 7,000, especially 100 to 5,000, x is a number between 1 and 5, preferably 3, and y is a number from 5 to 30, Ri 5 is a C-
  • the proportion of graft copolymers in the hair colouring compositions according to the invention ranges from 0.05 % to 5 %, preferably 0.1 % to 2.5 %, in particular 0.5 % to 1 .5 % by weight, calculated to the total composition.
  • Another compound that may be comprised in the colouring composition is a ceramide type of compounds according to the general formula
  • Ri 8 and R19 are independent from each other alkyl- or alkenyl group with 10 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 2 o is methyl, ethyl, n-propyl or isopropyl group and n is a number between 1 to 6, preferably 2 or 3.
  • the concentration of the ceramide type of compound in colouring compositions of the present invention can be in the range of 0.01 to 2 and especially 0.01 to 1 % by weight calculated to the total composition.
  • compositions according to the present invention can further comprise one or more ubiquinone of the formula.
  • n is a number from 1 to 10.
  • concentration of ubichinones in the compositions of the present invention can vary between 0.001 % and 10% by weight, calculated to the total composition excluding the oxidizing agent.
  • the coloring composition of the present invention can certainly comprise compounds for accelerating (catalysts) the oxidative dyeing keratin fibres such as iodine salts i.e. potassium or sodium iodide and/or dihydroxy acetone.
  • compositions can comprise yogurt powder at a concentration of 0.01 to 5% by weight calculated to total composition prior to mixing with oxidizing agent, which is a raw material prepared by spray drying of natural yoghurt after completion of fermentation.
  • Yogurt powder comprises the following major components:
  • compositions of the present invention can comprise additionally hair conditioning compounds such as additional oils, cationic polymers, non-ionic substances.
  • Oils as conditioners according to the present invention are selected from silicone oils either volatile or non-volatile, natural and synthetic oils. Among silicone oils those can be added to the compositions include either volatile or non-volatile
  • Synthetic oils include mineral oil such as paraffin oil and petrolatum.
  • Natural oils suitable are such as argan oil, marula oil, olive oil, almond oil, avocado oil, ricinus oil, coconut oil, palm oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, whale oil, sunflower oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, night primrose oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, or soya oil, lanolin and the derivatives thereof.
  • Lipophilic oily compounds such as fatty acid esters are also suitable for the composition of the present invention.
  • Examples are such as isopropyl myristate, palmitate, stearate and isostearate, oleyl oleate, isocetyl stearate, hexyl laurate, dibutyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, myristyl myristate, oleyl erucate, cetyl palmitate, etc.
  • Non-ionic conditioning agents may be polyols such as glycerin, glycol and derivatives, polyethyleneglycoles known with trade names Carbowax PEG from Union Carbide and Polyox WSR range from Amerchol, polyglycerin,
  • R 20 CO (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n O OC R21 where R 20 and R 2 i are independent from each other saturated, unsaturated or branched or non-branched alkyl chain with 7 to 21 C atoms and n is typically 2 - 100.
  • Composition of the present invention can comprises cationic polymers as conditioning agents.
  • cationic polymers know as Polymer JR type from Amerchol such as Polyquaternium 10 or cationic guar gum known with trade name Jaguar from Rhone-Poulenc and chemically for example Guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride.
  • chitosan and chitin can also be included in the compositions as cationic natural polymers.
  • Quaternium As well those polymers known with their CTFA category name Quaternium are suitable. Those are for example Quaternium-8, Quaternium-14, Quaternium-15, Quaternium-18, Quaternium-22, Quaternium-24, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-27, Quaternium-30, Quaternium-33, Quaternium-53, Quaternium-60, Quaternium-61 , Quaternium-72, Quaternium-78, Quaternium-80, Quaternium-81 , Quaternium-82, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-84.
  • Concentration range for any of the additional conditioners mentioned above is in the range of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 - 7.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 - 5% by weight calculated to the total composition.
  • compositions according to the present invention can also comprise further agents, such as protein hydrolyzates and polypeptides, e.g. keratin hydrolyzates, collagen hydrolyzates of the type “Nutrilan” or elastin hydrolyzates, as well as, in particular vegetable, optionally cationized protein hydrolyzates, for example "Gluadin " .
  • protein hydrolyzates and polypeptides e.g. keratin hydrolyzates, collagen hydrolyzates of the type “Nutrilan” or elastin hydrolyzates, as well as, in particular vegetable, optionally cationized protein hydrolyzates, for example "Gluadin " .
  • Additional natural plant extracts can as well form part of the compositions of the present invention. Those are incorporated usually in an amount of about 0.01 % to about 10 %, preferably 0.05 % to 7.5 %, in particular 0.1 % to 5 % by weight, calculated as dry residue thereof to the total composition.
  • Suitable aqueous e.g.
  • alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic plant extracts known per se are in particular extracts from leaves, fruits, blossoms, roots, rinds or stems of aloe, pineapple, artichoke, arnica, avocado, valerian, bamboo, green tea, blue lotus flower, henbane, birch, stinging nettle, echinacea, ivy, wild angelica, gentian, ferns, pine needles, silver weed, ginseng, broom, oat, rose hip, hamamelis, hay flowers, elderberry, hop, coltsfoot, currants, chamomile, carrots, chestnuts, clover, burr root, cocoanut, cornflower, lime blossom, lily of the valley, marine algae, balm, mistletoe, passion flower, ratanhia, marigold, rosemary, horse chestnut, pink hawthorn, sage, horsetail, yarrow, primrose, nettle, thyme, walnut, wine leaves,
  • Suitable trade products are, for example, the various "Extrapone” products and “Herbasol R”. Extracts and the preparation thereof are also described in “Hagers Handbuch der pharmazeuticiantechnik", 4 th Ed.
  • compositions of the present invention may further comprise particulate matter such as synthetic mica.
  • particulate matter such as synthetic mica.
  • synthetic mica coated with metal oxide or oxides mainly in decorative cosmetics is disclosed in an international patent application of Sun Chemical Corporation published with a number WO 2005/065632 A1 .
  • synthetic mica and coated synthetic mica with at least one metal oxide or oxides is disclosed in detail, the content of the document is included herewith by reference.
  • Suitable metal oxide or oxides for coating synthetic mica are titanium dioxide, chromium oxide, ferric oxide or mixtures thereof.
  • the preferred is synthetic mica coated with titanium dioxide.
  • Such materials are commercially available from Sun Chemical Corporation and are known with their INCI names Synthetic Fluorphologopite.
  • the particle size distribution of synthetic mica coated with a metal oxide or oxides is in the range of 1 to 750 ⁇ , preferably 1 to 250 ⁇ , more preferably 1 to 100 ⁇ and most preferably 20 to 95 ⁇ .
  • the particle sizes referred are relating to the volume particle size distribution meaning that particles found in the coated synthetic mica having volume particle size in the given ranges.
  • Concentration of synthetic mica coated with at least metal oxide or oxides is from 0.001 to 10%, preferably 0.05 to 7.5%, more preferably 0.1 to 5% and most preferably 0.25 to 2.5% by weight calculated to total composition.
  • the hair dyeing compositions according to the invention can comprise basic substances and additives customarily found in such compositions, such as conditioning agents, reducing agents and stabilizers for oxidizing agent, foam preventing agents etc., known as state of the art.
  • Avena sativa (oat) meal extract was also produced.
  • Avena sativa (oat) meal extract was preplaced with water.
  • compositions were tested in a monadic use test for scalp compatibility and mildness. Both compositions were used to dye hair of 30 consumers each having shoulder length hair. The composition was mixed with a composition comprising 6% hydrogen peroxide at a weight ratio of 1 to 1 and applied onto hair and processed for 30 min at a temperature of 40 °C and rinsed off. It was observed that both composition colour hair in the same way to the same colour direction. The following observations were made on scalp irritation. No irritation Slight irritation Irritation
  • Avena sativa (oat) meal extract comprising composition does not cause that much irritation compared to comparative composition without Avena sativa (oat) meal extract.
  • incorporation of Avena sativa (oat) meal extract improved mildness of hair dyeing composition and improved scalp compatibility.

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Abstract

A-14/1 26 SUMMARY Present invention relates to an oxidative dyeing composition having especially mild properties to the scalp. The object of the present invention is an oxidative dyeing composition for hair comprising at least one dyestuff and Avena sativa (oat) meal extract.

Description

Oxidative dyeing composition
Present invention relates to an oxidative dyeing composition having especially mild properties to the scalp.
Oxidative hair dyeing is carried out using oxidative dyes in the presence of oxidizing agent under weak to strong alkaline conditions. It is common to use ammonium hydroxide in such compositions. However, it has a strong disturbing smell and there has always been a desire to use alkalizing agents which does not have such disturbing smell.
Alkyl or alkanol amine type of alkalizing agents has also been used instead of ammonium hydroxide as an alkalizing agent despite some drawbacks in dyeing effect. Additionally it has been observed that the use of alkyl or alkanolamine type of alkalizing agent has brought further drawbacks on mildness of the compositions.
Present invention aims at providing an oxidative dyeing composition with acceptable mildness on scalp.
The inventors of the present invention have surprisingly found out that an oxidative hair dyeing composition comprising Avena sativa (oat) meal extract is especially mild to scalp.
Avena sativa (oat) meal extract has been used in scalp care and conditioning compositions. It has never been suggested that it may improve mildness of an oxidative dyeing composition which has slight to strong alkaline pH.
The first object of the present invention is an oxidative dyeing composition for hair comprising at least one dyestuff and Avena sativa (oat) meal extract. The second object of the present invention is the use of the composition for colouring hair.
The third object of the present invention is the method of colouring hair wherein a composition according to present invention is mixed with another composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent and applied onto hair and after processing 1 to 45 min rinsed off from hair.
Since the compositions of the present invention are in general mild to strong alkaline, it may be that Avena sativa (oat) meal extract does not have the optimum long term stability under such conditions so that in order to secure the optimum benefits of the presence of Avena sativa (oat) meal extract it may become necessary that Avena sativa (oat) meal extract is added prior to use to a composition comprising at least one oxidative dyestuff and oxidizing agent.
Therefore, the fourth object of the present invention is that a method for colouring hair wherein Avena sativa (oat) meal extract is added to a composition obtained by mixing the composition of the present invention but not comprising Avena sativa (oat) meal extract and a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent and applied onto hair and after processing of 1 to 45 min rinsed off from hair.
Another object of the present invention is that a kit for colouring hair comprising two or more compositions wherein one of the compositions comprises at least one dyestuff and Avena sativa (oat) meal extract and another composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent. As stated in the above paragraph the kit can comprise a third composition which comprises Avena sativa (oat) meal extract.
Compositions of the present invention preferably an aqueous composition and comprises at least 45%, preferably in the range of 50 to 90% and more preferably in the range of 55 and 85% and most preferably in the range of 60 to 80% by weight water calculated to the total composition.
Compositions of the present invention comprise at least one dyestuff selected from oxidative dyestuffs precursors and direct dyes. Suitable oxidative dyestuffs precursors are tetraaminopyrimidines, in particular 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and the lower alkyl derivatives thereof; suitable triaminohydroxypyrimidines are, for example 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6- triaminopyrimidine and 5-hydroxy-2,4,6-triaminopyrimidine; suitable mono- and diamino dihydroxypyrimidines are, for example, 2,6-dihydroxy-4,5- diaminopyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxy-pyrimidine or 4,6-dihydroxy-2,5- diaminopyrimidine or the water-soluble salts thereof, aminophenol derivatives such as 4-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-chloro-4-aminophenol, 2,6- dichloro-4-aminophenol, 2,4-diamino-phenol, 2,6-dibromo-4-aminophenol and/or 2-aminophenol and water-soluble salts thereof, furthermore, phenylenedimanine derivatives such as 2,5-diamino-toluene, 2-n-propyl or 2-ethyl-p-phenylene- diamine, 2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(2,5-diaminophenyl) ethanol, 1 - amino -4-bis-(2'-hydroxy-ethyl)aminobenzene, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl amino)-5- aminotoluene, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylamine, 4-aminodiphenylamine, 2-amino-5- Ν,Ν-diethyl aminotoluene, 4-amino-N-ethyl-N-isopropyl aniline, 2-chloro-p- phenylenediamine, 1 - -hydroxyethyl-2,5-diamino-4-chlorobenzene, 1 -β- hydroxyethyl-2,5-diamino-4-methyl benzene, 2-methoxy-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 1 -amino-4- -methoxyethyl aminobenzene, 1 - dimethyl-amino-4-aminobenzene, 1 -hydroxy-2,5-diamino-4-methyl benzene, 1 - hydroxymethyl-2,5-diaminobenzene, 1 ,3-dimethyl-2,5-diaminobenzene, 1 ,4- diamino isopropyl benzene and/or 1 -amino-4- -hydroxypropyl aminobenzene or the water-soluble salts thereof, pyrazole derivatives such as 1 -hydroxyethyl-4,5- diaminopyrazole, 3,4-diamino-5-hydroxypyrazole, 3,5-diaminopyrazole, 3,5- diamino pyrazol-1 -carboxamide, 3-amino-5-hydroxypyrazole, 1 -phenyl-2- methylpyrazole, 1 -phenyl-3-methylpyrazole-5-one, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole, 3,5- dimethylpyrazole-1 -methanol, 1 -methyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole, 1 -methylethyl-4,5- diaminopyrazole, 1 -phenylmethyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole, 1 -methyl-4,5- diaminopyrazole, 1 -(4-methylphenyl)methyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole, 1 -methyl-3- phenyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole and the water-soluble salts. The use of the above mentioned oxidative dye precursors as mixture is also customary in hair coloring area.
The composition according to the invention optionally but preferably comprises at least one coupling substance, which can be selected from resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-amino-4-chlorophenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2- methylphenol, 3-amino-phenol, 1 -methyl-2-hydroxy-4-aminobenzene, 3-N,N- dimethyl aminophenol, 2.6-dihydroxy-3.5-dimethoxypyridine, 5-amino-3- methylphenol, 6-amino-3-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6- methoxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxy-pyridine, 2-dimethyl-amino-5-aminopyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 1 ,3-diamino- benzene, 1 -amino-3-(2'-hy- droxyethylamino)benzene, 1 -amino-3-[bis(2'-hydroxy-ethyl) amino]benzene, cc- naphthol, 4,6-dichlororesorcinol, 1 ,3-diamino-toluene, 1 -hydroxy naphthalene, 4- hydroxy-1 ,2-methylenedioxy benzene, 1 ,5-dihydroxy naphthalene, 1 ,6-dihydroxy naphthalene, 1 ,7-dihydroxy naphthalene, 2, 7-dihydroxy naphthalene, 1 -hydroxy- 2-methyl naphthalene, 4-hydroxy-1 .2-methyldioxy benzene, 2,4-diamino-3- chlorophenol, 5-amino-2-methoxyphenol and/or 1 -methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'- hydroxyethyl amino)benzene or the water-soluble salts thereof.
However, this shall not exclude the addition of further developing and coupling substances. In the preferred embodiment of the present invention composition comprise additionally at least one coupling agent.
The weight proportion of the developing substances to the coupling substances ranges between about 1 : 8 to 8 : 1 , preferably about 1 : 5 to 5 : 1 , in particular 1 : 2 to 2 : 1 .
The composition of the present invention comprises direct dyes of neutral, cationic and anionic character. Some examples to suitable cationic dyes are Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41 , Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 4, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Natural Brown 7, Basic Green 1 , Basic Red 2, Basic Red 12 Basic Red 22, Basic Red 51 , Basic Red 76, Basic Violet 1 , Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic yellow 87 and Basic orange 31 . According to the invention, suitable cationic dyestuffs are in principal those any available on the market for cosmetic hair colouring applications. For this purpose, special reference is made to the PCT application WO 95/15144 of Ciba-Geigy AG. The content of the PCT application WO 95/15144 is by reference incorporated here.
Examples to suitable direct acting anionic dyes are Acid Black 1 , Acid Blue 1 , Acid Blue 3, Food Blue 5, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 74, Acid Orange 3, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Red 1 , Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 50, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 88, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 155, Acid Red 180, Acid Violet 9, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Yellow 1 , Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 3, Food Yellow No. 8, D&C Brown No. 1 , D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 8, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 1 1 , D&C Red No. 21 , D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Violet 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, FD&C Red 2, FD&C Red 40, FD&C Red No. 4, FD&C Yellow No. 6, FD&C Blue 1 , Food Black 1 , Food Black 2, Disperse Black 9 and Disperse Violet 1 and their alkali metal salts such as sodium, potassium.
Additional suitable direct dyes are of the following chemical structures.
Figure imgf000007_0001
Figure imgf000007_0002
Some examples to those suitable neutral dyes (HC dyes), so called nitro dyes, are HC Blue No.2, HC Blue No.4, HC Blue No.5, HC Blue No.6, HC Blue No.7, HC Blue No.8, HC Blue No.9, HC Blue No.10, HC Blue No.1 1 , HC Blue No.12, HC Blue No.13, HC Brown No.1 , HC Brown No.2, HC Green No.1 , HC Orange No.1 , HC Orange No.2, HC Orange No.3, HC Orange No.5, HC Red BN, HC Red No.1 , HC Red No.3, HC Red No.7, HC Red No.8, HC Red No.9, HC Red No.10, HC Red No.1 1 , HC Red No.13, HC Red No.54, HC Red No.14, HC Violet BS, HC Violet No.1 , HC Violet No.2, HC Yellow No.2, HC Yellow No.4, HC
Yellow No.5, HC Yellow No.6, HC Yellow No.7, HC Yellow No.8, HC Yellow No.9, HC Yellow No.10, HC Yellow No.1 1 , HC Yellow No.12, HC Yellow No.13, HC Yellow No.14, HC Yellow No.15, 2- Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, picramic acid, 1 ,2-Diamino-4-nitrobenzol, 1 ,4-Diamino-2-nitrobenzol, 3-Nitro-4-aminophenol, 1 - Hydroxy-2-amino-3-nitrobenzol and 2-hydroxyethylpicramic acid.
Plant dyestuffs can also be used alone or in combination with synthetic direct- acting dyestuffs, for example henna (red or black), alkanna root, laccaic acid, indigo, logwood powder, madder root and rhubarb powder, etc.
According to the invention, the coloring composition comprises hair dyes at a total concentration of 0.001 to 15%, preferably 0.01 to 12.5%, more preferably 0.05 to 10%, most preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight calculated to total composition.
Compositions of the present invention comprise Avena sativa (oat) meal extract. Preferred are the extracts comprising at least one polyol preferably selected form butylene glycol, propylene glycol and glycerine. Such extracts are available commercially from such as Kao Corporation, Active Organics Inc. and Laboratoires Phytocos.
Compositions comprise Avena sativa (oat) meal extract at a total concentration of 0.0001 to 5%, preferably 0.001 to 4%, more preferably 0.005 to 3% and most preferably 0.01 to 2.5% and in particular 0.02 to 1 .5% by weight calculated to the total composition based on the dry weight of the extract.
The compositions of the present invention are preferably emulsions and preferably comprise one or more fatty alcohol, preferably of the general formula
R4-OH wherein R4 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain with 12 to 22 C atoms and at least one emulsifier preferably selected from anionic, non- ionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants.
Suitable fatty alcohols are myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and their mixtures. Most preferred is the mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol also known as cetearyl alcohol.
The concentration of one or more fatty alcohols is in the range of 1 to 25%, preferably 2.5 to 20%, more preferably 5 to 15% and most preferably 5 to 10% by weight calculated to total composition.
The composition of the present invention comprises at least one surfactant, preferably selected from anionic, non-ionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants. Preferred surfactants are anionic, non-ionic and cationic ones and especially preferred are anionic and/or non-ionic surfactants. Preferred mixing ratio for the anionic - non-ionic emulsifying surfactant mixture is in the range of 5:1 to 1 :5, more preferably 3:1 to 1 :3 and especially 1 :1 , by weight. Particularly preferred are anionic surfactants.
In principal any anionic surfactant is suitable within the meaning of the present invention. Nonlimiting examples are anionic surfactants of the sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate and alkyl phosphate type, especially, of course, those customarily used as emulsifiers, for example, the known C 0-Ci8-alkyl sulfates, and in particular the respective ether sulfates, for example, Ci2-Ci4-alkyl ether sulfate, lauryl ether sulfate, especially with 1 to 4 ethylene oxide groups in the molecule, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide sulfates obtained by ethoxylation and subsequent sulfatation of fatty acid alkanolamides, and the alkali salts thereof, as well as the salts of long-chain mono- and dialkyi phosphates and their salts. Further suitable surfactants of the carboxylate type are alkyi polyether carboxylic acids and the salts thereof of the formula
R5 - (C2H40)n - O - CH2COOX, wherein R5 is a C8-C2o-alkyl group, preferably a Ci2-Ci4-alkyl group, n is a number from 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 17, and X is H or preferably a cation of the group sodium, potassium, magnesium and ammonium, which can optionally be hydroxyalkyl-substituted, as well as alkyi amido polyether carboxylic acids of the general formula
R5 - C - N - CH2 - CH2- (C2H40)n - CH2COOX
II I O H wherein R5 and X have the above meanings, and n is in particular a number from 1 to 10, preferably 2.5 to 5.
Among the anionic surfactants most preferred are alkyi sulfates and/or alkyi ether sulfates and among them sodium lauryl or laureth sulfates and their mixtures are most preferred.
Suitable non-ionic surfactants are alkyi polyglucosides of the general formula
R6 - O - (R70)n O - Zx wherein R6 is an alkyi group with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, R7 is an ethylene or propylene group, Z is a saccharide group with 5 to 6 carbon atoms, n is a number from 0 to 10 and x is a number between 1 and 5. Examples are decyl
polyglucoside and cocoyl polyglucoside, both beeing commercially available. Further nonionic surfactant components are, for example, long-chain fatty acid mono- and dialkanolamides, such as coco fatty acid monoethanolamide and myristic fatty acid monoethanolamide.
Further additionally useful nonionic surfactants are, for example, the various sorbitan esters, such as polyethylene glycol sorbitan stearic acid ester, fatty acid polyglycol esters or poly-condensates of ethyleneoxide and propyleneoxide, as they are on the market, for example, under the trade name "PluronicsR".
Further nonionic surfactants as emulsifiers useful in the compositions according to invention are C-i0-C22-fatty alcohol ethoxylates. Especially suited are C10-C-22- fatty alcohol ethers, the alkyl polyglycol ethers known by the generic terms "Laureth", "Myristeth", "Oleth", "Ceteth", "Deceth", "Steareth" and "Ceteareth" according to the CTFA nomenclature, including addition of the number of ethylene oxide molecules, e.g., "Laureth-16":
The average degree of ethoxylation thereby ranges between about 2.5 and about 25, preferably about 10 and about 20.
Among the non-ionic surfactants mentioned above fatty alcohol ethoxylates and fatty acid alkanolamides and their mixtures at any weight ratio are the most preferred ones.
As a rule any mono alkyl quaternary ammonium surfactants is suitable for the compositions of the present invention as cationic emulsifying surfactant. With the term mono alkyl it is meant that quaternary ammonium surfactant includes only 1 alkyl chain which has more than 8 C atoms. The term does not exclude that the quaternary ammonium surfactant includes further short alkyl chains, Ci to C4, present in the molecule. Preferably at least one mono alkyl quaternary ammonium surfactant is selected from the compounds with the general formula
Rs
I
R10- N+ - R9 χ- I
Figure imgf000012_0001
where R8 is saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkyl chain with 8-22 C atoms or
R12 CO NH (CH2)n where R12 IS saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkyl chain with 7-21 C atoms and n has typical value of 0 - 4 or
R12 CO O (CH2)n where R12 is saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkyl chain with 7-21 C atoms and n has typical value of 0 - 4, and
R9, R-m and Rn are independent from each other lower alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyl alky chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, or ethoxy or propoxy group with number of ethoxy or propoxy groups varying in the range of 1 to 4, and X is chloride, bromide or methosulfate.
Suitable cationic surfactants and or conditioning agents are, for example, long- chain quaternary ammonium compounds which can be used alone or in admixture with one another, such as cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, myristoyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, trimethyl cetyl
ammonium bromide, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stear trimonium chloride, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl trimonuim chloride.
Surfactants are included into the compositions of the present at a total
concentration of 0.5 to 20%, preferably 1 to 15% and more preferably 1 .5 - 12.5%, and most preferably 2 to 10% by weight, calculated to the total
composition.
Compositions of the present invention have a pH in the range of 6 to 12 and preferably 6.5 to 1 1 , more preferably 6.8 to 1 1 and most preferably 8 to 10.5 and in particular 9 to 10.
Compositions are therefore comprised at least one alkalizing agent especially when the pH is in the neutral to alkaline range. Suitable alkalizing agents are sodium hydroxide, ammonia or ammonium hydroxide and a compound according to the general formula
Figure imgf000013_0001
wherein R ; R2 and R3 are same or different H, C1 - C6 alkyl, C1 - C6
monohydroxyalkyl or C2 - C6 polyhydroxyalkyl with the condition that at least one of R-i , R2 and R3 is a mono or polyhydroxyalkyl. Preferably R-i , R2 and R3 are same or different H, C1 - C4 alkyl, C1 - C4 monohydroxyalkyl or C2 - C4 polyhydroxyalkyl with the condition that at least one of R-i , R2 and R3 is a mono or polyhydroxyalkyl.
Suitable alkanolamines according to the general formula of above are
monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoethanol methylamine, monoethanoldimethylamine, di-ethanolmethylamine, monoethanolethylamine, monoethanoldiethylamine, diethanolethylamine, monoethanolpropylamine, monoethanoldipropylamine, diethanolpropylamine, monoethanolbutylamine and diethanolbutylamine.
Preferred are monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine. The most preferred is monoethanolamine. Ammonia is also preferred as an alkalizing agent.
Within the meaning of the present invention it should also be understood that oxidative dyeing compositions and/or ready to use oxidative dyeing compositions can comprise more than one alkanolamine such as a mixture of two or three alkanolamines.
The concentration of at least one alkalizing agent varies between 1 and 35%, preferably 1 and 30, more preferably 2.5 and 25 and most preferably 2.5 to 20% by weight calculated to the total composition.
Composition of the present invention comprises at least one oxidizing agent. The oxidizing agents suitable are hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, melamin peroxide or perborate salts. The preferred oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide, at a concentration in a range of 2 to 12 % by weight calculated to the total composition.
At the same time, the kit of above preferably comprises an additional composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
The pH of the composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent is in the range of 2 to 5, preferably 2.5 to 4 and more preferably 3 to 4.
The hair dyeing compositions can comprise an organopolysiloxane wherein at least one silicon atom is linked to an alkylene group having a hetero-atom, in particular a nitrogen atom, with a poly-(N-acyl alkyleneimine) units of the formula — ( CH2)— N - R14 - C = O wherein n is a number from 1 to 5 and Ri4 is hydrogen, a C-| -C-| 2-alkyl or cycloalkyl, aralkyl or aryl group.
Preferred organopolysiloxane polymers are those of the type disclosed in
EP-A 640 643, in particular optionally quaternized aminoalkyl, in particular aminopropyl dimethyl polysiloxane/polyethyl oxazoline copolymers of the formula
Figure imgf000015_0001
C = 0
I
C2H5 wherein m and n each are numbers from 20 to 10,000, in particular 50 to 7,000, especially 100 to 5,000, x is a number between 1 and 5, preferably 3, and y is a number from 5 to 30, Ri5 is a C-| -C-| 2-alkyl or aryl group, in particular a methyl, ethyl or benzyl group, and Y~ is an anion.
Especially suited are the organopolysiloxanes disclosed under the terms A-1 , A-2 and A-3 on pages 12 to 13 of EP-A 640 643. The proportion of graft copolymers in the hair colouring compositions according to the invention ranges from 0.05 % to 5 %, preferably 0.1 % to 2.5 %, in particular 0.5 % to 1 .5 % by weight, calculated to the total composition. Another compound that may be comprised in the colouring composition is a ceramide type of compounds according to the general formula
OH I
R18 -CH2 - CH - O - CH2- CH - CH2OH
I
CH2
N- (CH2)n - O - R20
Figure imgf000016_0001
O where Ri8 and R19 are independent from each other alkyl- or alkenyl group with 10 to 22 carbon atoms, R2o is methyl, ethyl, n-propyl or isopropyl group and n is a number between 1 to 6, preferably 2 or 3. The concentration of the ceramide type of compound in colouring compositions of the present invention can be in the range of 0.01 to 2 and especially 0.01 to 1 % by weight calculated to the total composition.
The compositions according to the present invention can further comprise one or more ubiquinone of the formula.
Figure imgf000016_0002
wherein n is a number from 1 to 10. The concentration of ubichinones in the compositions of the present invention can vary between 0.001 % and 10% by weight, calculated to the total composition excluding the oxidizing agent. The coloring composition of the present invention can certainly comprise compounds for accelerating (catalysts) the oxidative dyeing keratin fibres such as iodine salts i.e. potassium or sodium iodide and/or dihydroxy acetone.
Further compositions can comprise yogurt powder at a concentration of 0.01 to 5% by weight calculated to total composition prior to mixing with oxidizing agent, which is a raw material prepared by spray drying of natural yoghurt after completion of fermentation. Yogurt powder comprises the following major components:
- approximately 53.5% lactose,
- approximately 25% proteins,
- approximately 7.5% lactic acid,
- approximately 5% minerals and trace elements,
- approximately 1 % vitamines, and
- approximately 2% lipids.
Compositions of the present invention can comprise additionally hair conditioning compounds such as additional oils, cationic polymers, non-ionic substances. Oils as conditioners according to the present invention are selected from silicone oils either volatile or non-volatile, natural and synthetic oils. Among silicone oils those can be added to the compositions include either volatile or non-volatile
dimethicone, dimethiconol, polydimethylsiloxane, any arylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicone, DC fluid ranges from Dow Corning, cyclosiloxanes such as DC 245. Synthetic oils include mineral oil such as paraffin oil and petrolatum.
Natural oils suitable are such as argan oil, marula oil, olive oil, almond oil, avocado oil, ricinus oil, coconut oil, palm oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, whale oil, sunflower oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, night primrose oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, or soya oil, lanolin and the derivatives thereof. Lipophilic oily compounds such as fatty acid esters are also suitable for the composition of the present invention. Examples are such as isopropyl myristate, palmitate, stearate and isostearate, oleyl oleate, isocetyl stearate, hexyl laurate, dibutyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, myristyl myristate, oleyl erucate, cetyl palmitate, etc.
Non-ionic conditioning agents may be polyols such as glycerin, glycol and derivatives, polyethyleneglycoles known with trade names Carbowax PEG from Union Carbide and Polyox WSR range from Amerchol, polyglycerin,
polyethyleneglycol mono or di fatty acid esters having general formula
R20 CO (OCH2CH2)n OH
R20 CO (OCH2CH2)n O OC R21 where R20 and R2i are independent from each other saturated, unsaturated or branched or non-branched alkyl chain with 7 to 21 C atoms and n is typically 2 - 100.
Composition of the present invention can comprises cationic polymers as conditioning agents. Those are cationic cellulose type polymers know as Polymer JR type from Amerchol such as Polyquaternium 10 or cationic guar gum known with trade name Jaguar from Rhone-Poulenc and chemically for example Guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride. Furthermore, chitosan and chitin can also be included in the compositions as cationic natural polymers.
Furthermore, it has especially been found suitable those cationic polymers known with their CTFA category name Polyquaternium. Typical examples of those Polyquaternium 6, Polyquaternium 7, Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium 1 1 , Polyquaternium 16, Polyquaternium 22 and Polyquaternium 28, Polyquaternium 30, Polyquaternium 37, Polyquaternium 36, Polyquaternium 46, Polyquaternium 67.
As well those polymers known with their CTFA category name Quaternium are suitable. Those are for example Quaternium-8, Quaternium-14, Quaternium-15, Quaternium-18, Quaternium-22, Quaternium-24, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-27, Quaternium-30, Quaternium-33, Quaternium-53, Quaternium-60, Quaternium-61 , Quaternium-72, Quaternium-78, Quaternium-80, Quaternium-81 , Quaternium-82, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-84.
In this context, reference is also made to the cationic polymers disclosed in DE 25 21 960, 28 1 1 010, 30 44 738 and 32 17 059, as well as to the products described in EP-A 337 354 on pages 3 to 7. It is also possible to use mixtures of various cationic polymers.
Concentration range for any of the additional conditioners mentioned above is in the range of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 - 7.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 - 5% by weight calculated to the total composition.
The compositions according to the present invention can also comprise further agents, such as protein hydrolyzates and polypeptides, e.g. keratin hydrolyzates, collagen hydrolyzates of the type "Nutrilan" or elastin hydrolyzates, as well as, in particular vegetable, optionally cationized protein hydrolyzates, for example "Gluadin".
Additional natural plant extracts can as well form part of the compositions of the present invention. Those are incorporated usually in an amount of about 0.01 % to about 10 %, preferably 0.05 % to 7.5 %, in particular 0.1 % to 5 % by weight, calculated as dry residue thereof to the total composition. Suitable aqueous (e.g. steam-distilled) alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic plant extracts known per se are in particular extracts from leaves, fruits, blossoms, roots, rinds or stems of aloe, pineapple, artichoke, arnica, avocado, valerian, bamboo, green tea, blue lotus flower, henbane, birch, stinging nettle, echinacea, ivy, wild angelica, gentian, ferns, pine needles, silver weed, ginseng, broom, oat, rose hip, hamamelis, hay flowers, elderberry, hop, coltsfoot, currants, chamomile, carrots, chestnuts, clover, burr root, cocoanut, cornflower, lime blossom, lily of the valley, marine algae, balm, mistletoe, passion flower, ratanhia, marigold, rosemary, horse chestnut, pink hawthorn, sage, horsetail, yarrow, primrose, nettle, thyme, walnut, wine leaves, white hawthorn, etc.
Suitable trade products are, for example, the various "Extrapone" products and "HerbasolR ". Extracts and the preparation thereof are also described in "Hagers Handbuch der pharmazeutischen Praxis", 4th Ed.
Compositions of the present invention may further comprise particulate matter such as synthetic mica. Use of synthetic mica coated with metal oxide or oxides mainly in decorative cosmetics is disclosed in an international patent application of Sun Chemical Corporation published with a number WO 2005/065632 A1 . In the document synthetic mica and coated synthetic mica with at least one metal oxide or oxides is disclosed in detail, the content of the document is included herewith by reference.
Suitable metal oxide or oxides for coating synthetic mica are titanium dioxide, chromium oxide, ferric oxide or mixtures thereof. In the present invention the preferred is synthetic mica coated with titanium dioxide. Such materials are commercially available from Sun Chemical Corporation and are known with their INCI names Synthetic Fluorphologopite.
The particle size distribution of synthetic mica coated with a metal oxide or oxides is in the range of 1 to 750 μιτι, preferably 1 to 250 μιτι, more preferably 1 to 100 μιτι and most preferably 20 to 95 μιτι. The particle sizes referred are relating to the volume particle size distribution meaning that particles found in the coated synthetic mica having volume particle size in the given ranges.
Concentration of synthetic mica coated with at least metal oxide or oxides is from 0.001 to 10%, preferably 0.05 to 7.5%, more preferably 0.1 to 5% and most preferably 0.25 to 2.5% by weight calculated to total composition.
The hair dyeing compositions according to the invention can comprise basic substances and additives customarily found in such compositions, such as conditioning agents, reducing agents and stabilizers for oxidizing agent, foam preventing agents etc., known as state of the art.
The following examples are to illustrate the invention without limiting it.
Example 1
% by weight
Cetearyl alcohol 10.0
Cocamide MEA 4.0
Sodium lauryl sulphate 1 .5
Propylene glycol 2.0
Avena sativa (oat) meal extract* 1 .0
2,5,6-Triamino-4-hydroxypyrimidinsulfat 0.01
2,5-Diaminotoluolsulfat 0.55
4-Chlorresorcin 0.17
Resorcin 0.05
3-Aminophenol 0.03
Sodium sulfite 1 .0
Monoethanolamine 8.0
Fragrance, preservative q.s.
Water to 100
Purchased from Kao Crporation and comprises 3% active matter.
For comparative purposes the same composition but not comprising Avena sativa (oat) meal extract was also produced. Avena sativa (oat) meal extract was preplaced with water.
The above compositions were tested in a monadic use test for scalp compatibility and mildness. Both compositions were used to dye hair of 30 consumers each having shoulder length hair. The composition was mixed with a composition comprising 6% hydrogen peroxide at a weight ratio of 1 to 1 and applied onto hair and processed for 30 min at a temperature of 40 °C and rinsed off. It was observed that both composition colour hair in the same way to the same colour direction. The following observations were made on scalp irritation. No irritation Slight irritation Irritation
Inventive composition 22 6 2
Comparative composition 3 15 12
From the above results it is clear that Avena sativa (oat) meal extract comprising composition does not cause that much irritation compared to comparative composition without Avena sativa (oat) meal extract. The clear conclusion from the above results is that incorporation of Avena sativa (oat) meal extract improved mildness of hair dyeing composition and improved scalp compatibility.

Claims

Claims
1 - An oxidative dyeing composition characterized in that it comprises at least one dyestuff and Avena sativa (oat) meal extract.
2- The composition according to claim 1 characterised in that it is an
aqueous composition and comprises at least 45%, preferably in the range of 50 to 90% and more preferably in the range of 55 and 85% and most preferably in the range of 60 to 80% by weight water calculated to the total composition.
3- The composition according to claims 1 and 2 characterized in that it
comprises at least one oxidative dyestuff precursor and at least one coupling agent.
4- The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that it comprises at least one direct dye.
5- The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that Avena sativa (oat) meal extract comprises at least one polyol preferably selected form butylene glycol, propylene glycol and glycerine.
6- The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that it comprises Avena sativa (oat) meal extract at a concentration of 0.0001 to 5%, preferably 0.001 to 4%, more preferably 0.005 to 3% and most preferably 0.01 to 2.5% and in particular 0.02 to 1 .5% by weight calculated to the total composition based on the dry weight of the extract. 7- The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that it comprises one or more fatty alcohol, preferably of the general formula
R4-OH wherein R4 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain with 12 to 22 C atoms, preferably selected from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and their mixtures, preferably at a concentration in the range of 1 to 25%, preferably 2.5 to 20%, more preferably 5 to 15% and most preferably 5 to 10% by weight calculated to total composition, and at least one emulsifier preferably selected from anionic, non-ionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants.
8- The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that at least one emulsifier is an anionic surfactant.
9- The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterised in that it comprises at least one emulsifier at a total concentration in the range of 0.5 to 20%, preferably 1 to 15% and more preferably 1 .5 - 12.5%, and most preferably 2 to 10% by weight, calculated to the total
composition.
10- The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that it has pH in the range of 6 to 12 and preferably 6.5 to 1 1 , more preferably 6.8 to 1 1 and most preferably 8 to 10.5 and in particular 9 to 10. 1 1 - The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterised in that it comprises at least one alkalizing agent selected from sodium hydroxide, ammonia or ammonium hydroxide and a compound according to the general formula
Figure imgf000026_0001
wherein R ; R2 and R3 are same or different H, C1 - C6 alkyl, C1 - C6 monohydroxyalkyl or C2 - C6 polyhydroxyalkyl with the condition that at least one of R-i , R2 and R3 is a mono or polyhydroxyalkyl.
12- The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterised in that at least one alkalizing agent is ammonia or monoethanolamine and preferably comprised at a concentration of between 1 and 35%, further preferably 1 and 30, more preferably 2.5 and 25 and most preferably 2.5 to 20% by weight calculated to the total composition.
13- Method of colouring hair wherein a composition according to claims 1 to 12 is mixed with another composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent and applied onto hair and after processing 1 to 45 min rinsed off from hair.
14- Method of colouring hair wherein Avena sativa (oat) meal extract is added to a composition obtained by mixing a composition according to claims 1 to 12 but not comprising Avena sativa (oat) meal extract and a
composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent and it is applied onto hair and after processing of 1 to 45 min rinsed off from hair.
15- Kit for colouring hair comprising two or more compositions wherein one of the compositions is a composition according to claims 1 to 12 and another composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, optionally a third composition which comprises Avena sativa (oat) meal extract.
PCT/EP2012/076476 2011-12-28 2012-12-20 Oxidative dyeing composition WO2013098208A1 (en)

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EP0640643A2 (en) 1993-08-10 1995-03-01 Kao Corporation Organopolysiloxanes and a method of setting hair using the same
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EP2609908A1 (en) 2013-07-03
EP2797578A1 (en) 2014-11-05

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