WO2013092719A1 - Composition cosmétique comprenant un polymère associatif anionique ou non ionique, un polymère fixant et au moins 2% d'un tensioactif - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comprenant un polymère associatif anionique ou non ionique, un polymère fixant et au moins 2% d'un tensioactif Download PDF

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WO2013092719A1
WO2013092719A1 PCT/EP2012/076162 EP2012076162W WO2013092719A1 WO 2013092719 A1 WO2013092719 A1 WO 2013092719A1 EP 2012076162 W EP2012076162 W EP 2012076162W WO 2013092719 A1 WO2013092719 A1 WO 2013092719A1
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alkyl
polymers
copolymers
anionic
composition according
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PCT/EP2012/076162
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English (en)
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Grégory Plos
Estelle Mathonneau
Julien CABOURG
Laëtitia FEUILLETTE
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L'oreal
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42—Amides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/548—Associative polymers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one anionic or nonionic associative polymer, at least one fixing polymer and at least one particular surfactant, to a use of this composition for treating the hair and also to a cosmetic treatment process using it.
  • hair compositions In the field of styling, in particular among hair products intended for shaping and/or holding the hairstyle, hair compositions generally consist of a solution, which is usually alcohol-based or water-based, and of one or more fixing polymers as a mixture with various cosmetic adjuvants.
  • compositions may be in the form of hair gels, lotions, mousses or sprays, which are generally applied to wet hair before blow-drying or drying.
  • head gels consist especially of one or more thickening polymers or gelling agents in combination with one or more fixing polymers which usually served to form a film of the surface of the keratin fibres to be fixed in order to produce welds between them, thus structuring or constructing the hairstyle and giving it hold.
  • Document US 2007/0 134 191 describes, for example, several styling gel compositions, one of the compositions comprising a fixing polymer, a nonionic amphiphilic polymer and an emulsifier, in particular 4% of isoceteth-20.
  • Document WO 201 1/062 805 also describes examples of styling gel compositions comprising a fixing polymer combined with an anionic associative polymer, one of the compositions comprising 0.25% of laureth-30.
  • Styling gels generally have moderate to very strong hair-fixing properties. Within this fixing range, the hold of the hairstyle over time often depends on the starting level of fixing of the gel, but in all cases remains largely insufficient. The reason for this is that the locks of hair obtained by applying a gel are subject to mechanical stresses throughout the day, such as the wearing of a helmet, passage of the hands or the wind, the removal of clothing, etc.
  • styling gels are often difficult to remove from the hair and above all from the hands at the time of application. Soap or a shampoo are systematically required in order to cleanse the hands and the hair thoroughly.
  • a subject of the present invention is thus especially a cosmetic composition, especially a hair composition, comprising at least one anionic or nonionic associative polymer, at least one fixing polymer and at least one anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactant, the weight content of anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants in the composition being greater than or equal to 2%.
  • a combination according to the invention specifically makes it possible to obtain a styling gel with very strong fixing power, which has extreme hold over time and when subjected to mechanical stresses, especially the wearing of a helmet or passage of the hands. It also makes it possible to clean the hands and the hair after rinsing with water.
  • the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, especially for shaping the hair, in which a cosmetic composition, especially a hair composition, comprising at least one anionic or nonionic associative polymer, at least one fixing polymer and at least one anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactant is applied to the keratin fibres, the weight content of anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants in the composition being greater than or equal to 2%.
  • the present invention relates to the use for treating keratin fibres, especially for holding and/or fixing the hair, of a cosmetic composition as defined previously.
  • hair composition means a composition that is applied to the hair, i.e. especially for holding and/or fixing the hairstyle, caring for the hair, making up the hair or colouring the hair.
  • binding composition means a composition for giving the head of hair a shape and/or for holding the acquired shape of the head of hair.
  • the term "fixing polymer” thus means a polymer that is capable of giving a head of hair a shape and/or of holding the acquired shape of the head of hair.
  • amphiphilic polymers means amphiphilic polymers comprising both a) one or more hydrophobic units each consisting of one or more fatty chains and b) one or more hydrophilic units. These polymers result from a polymerization using at least one monomer other than an alkylene oxide or glycidol. They may be obtained, for example, via radical polymerization reactions, polycondensation reactions or grafting reactions onto prepolymers.
  • fatty chain means a linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from 8 to 30 and preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the associative polymers of the composition according to the invention are of anionic or nonionic type. They may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. Among the associative polymers of anionic type that may be mentioned are:
  • R' denotes H or CH 3
  • B denotes an ethylenoxy radical
  • n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100
  • R denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • a unit of formula (I) that is more particularly preferred is a unit in which R' denotes H, n is equal to 10, and R denotes a stearyl radical (Cis).
  • Anionic associative polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP-0 216 479.
  • anionic associative polymers those that are particularly preferred according to the invention are polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and/or of methacrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of Ci-C 4 alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2% to 50% by weight of fatty-chain allyl ether of formula (I), and from 0 to 1 % by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.
  • a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.
  • crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth-10), in particular those sold by the company Ciba under the names Salcare SC 80® and Salcare SC 90®, which are aqueous 30% emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of steareth-10 allyl ether (40/50/10);
  • polystyrene resin preferably chosen from those in which the hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (II) below:
  • Ri denotes H or CH 3 or C 5 H 5 , i.e. acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units, and whose hydrophobic unit of the type such as a (Cio- C30) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponds to the monomer of formula (III) below:
  • R 2 denotes H or CH 3 or C2H 5 (i.e. acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH 3 (methacrylate units), R3 denoting a C 10-C30 and preferably C12-C22 alkyl radical.
  • (C10-C30) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.
  • anionic associative polymers of this type that will be used more particularly are polymers formed from a monomer mixture comprising:
  • crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl
  • anionic associative polymers of this type that will be used more particularly are those consisting of from 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of C 10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0% to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or alternatively those consisting of from 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 % to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1 % to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above.
  • those most particularly preferred according to the present invention are the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR1 ®, Pemulen TR2® and Carbopol 1382®, and even more preferentially Pemulen TR1 ®, and the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Coatex SX®.
  • acrylic terpolymers comprising: (a) about 20% to 70% by weight of a carboxylic acid containing ⁇ , ⁇ - monoethylenic unsaturation,
  • Example 3 such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 173 109 and more particularly the terpolymer described in Example 3, namely a methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/behenyl alcohol dimethyl-meta- isopropenylbenzylisocyanate ethoxylated (40 EO) terpolymer, as an aqueous 25% dispersion.
  • a methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/behenyl alcohol dimethyl-meta- isopropenylbenzylisocyanate ethoxylated (40 EO) terpolymer as an aqueous 25% dispersion.
  • V (V) copolymers comprising among their monomers an ⁇ , ⁇ - monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an ⁇ , ⁇ - monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.
  • these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of an ⁇ , ⁇ -monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a Ci-C 4 alcohol.
  • Aculyn 22® and Aculyn 88® sold by the company Rohm & Haas which are methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymers.
  • Synthalen W400 sold by the company 3V- Sigma, which is an acrylate copolymer in aqueous emulsion
  • Synthalen W2000 sold by the company 3V-Sigma, which is an acrylate/polyoxyethylenated (25 OE) Ci2-24 alcohol acrylate copolymer in aqueous emulsion.
  • Carbopol Ultrez 21 which is an acrylic polymer (acrylates/Cio-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) and Novethix L-10, which is an acrylates/Beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer.
  • the associative polymers of nonionic type are preferably chosen from:
  • - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, for instance the product Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS® (C16 alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon, or the product Bermocoll EHM 100® sold by the company Berol Nobel, - hydroxyethyl celluloses modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500® (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenyl ether) sold by the company Amerchol,
  • hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as the product Esaflor HM 22® (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210-18® (CM alkyl chain) and RE205- 1 ® (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhodia Chimie.
  • inulins modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as inulin alkyl carbamates and in particular the inulin lauryl carbamate sold by the company Orafti under the name Inutec SP1 .
  • polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences;
  • the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block.
  • the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
  • the polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form.
  • the hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer containing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example multiblock copolymer).
  • These same polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.
  • the nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups.
  • the nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence arises the name.
  • nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers include those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.
  • nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate FX 1 100 (Steareth- 100/PEG 136/HDI copolymer), Rheolate 205® containing a urea function, sold by the company Elementis, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184®.
  • the product DW 1206B® from Rohm & Haas containing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.
  • solutions or dispersions of these polymers in particular in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium.
  • examples of such polymers that may be mentioned are Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Elementis.
  • the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Rohm & Haas may also be used.
  • polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci. 271 , 380-389 (1993).
  • a polyurethane polyether that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
  • Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81 %);
  • Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].
  • the associative polymer(s) are chosen from anionic associative polymers. Even more preferentially, the associative polymers are chosen from methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyethylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymers. According to another embodiment of the invention, the associative polymers are fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers.
  • the associative polymer(s) of the composition are present in a concentration ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight, preferably in a concentration ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, and even more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fixing polymers may be soluble in the composition or insoluble in this same composition and used in this case in the form of dispersions of solid or liquid particles of polymer (latex or pseudolatex).
  • the anionic fixing polymers generally used are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid or phosphoric acid and have a number-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5 000 000 approximately.
  • anionic fixing polymers containing carboxylic groups that are preferred according to the invention are:
  • copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salts under the names Reten 421 , 423 or 425 by the company Hercules, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids;
  • methacrylic acid/acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymers as an aqueous dispersion, sold under the name Amerhold® DR 25 by the company Amerchol;
  • crotonic acid copolymers such as those comprising vinyl acetate or propionate units in their chain and optionally other monomers such as allyl esters or methallyl esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid with a long hydrocarbon-based chain, such as those containing at least 5 carbon atoms, it being possible for these polymers optionally to be grafted or crosslinked, or alternatively another vinyl, allyl or methallyl ester monomer of an a- or ⁇ -cyclic carboxylic acid.
  • copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer selected from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated.
  • Such polymers are described, in particular, in US patents 2 047 398, 2 723 248 and 2 102 1 13, and GB patent 839 805.
  • Commercial products are especially those sold under the names Gantrez® AN or ES by the company ISP;
  • - copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydride units and (ii) one or more monomers selected from allyl or methallyl esters optionally comprising one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, cc-olefin, acrylic or methacrylic ester, acrylic or methacrylic acid or vinylpyrrolidone groups in their chain,
  • Homopolymers and copolymers comprising sulfonic groups such as polymers comprising vinylsulfonic, styrenesulfonic, naphthalenesulfonic or acrylamidoalkylsulfonic units.
  • These polymers may be chosen especially from:
  • polyvinylsulfonic acid salts having a molecular weight of approximately between 1000 and 100 000, and also the copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters, and also acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone;
  • - polystyrenesulfonic acid salts such as the sodium salts that are sold for example under the names Flexan ® 500 and Flexan ® 130 by Akzo Nobel. These compounds are described in patent FR 2 198 719; - polyacrylamidesulfonic acid salts, such as those mentioned in patent US 4 128 631 and more particularly polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulfonic acid sold under the name Cosmedia Polymer HSP 1 180 by Henkel.
  • anionic fixing polymer As another anionic fixing polymer that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the branched block anionic polymer sold under the name Fixate G-100 by the company Lubrizol.
  • the anionic fixing polymers are preferably chosen from copolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylic esters, such as the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold especially under the name Ultrahold ® Strong by the company BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold especially under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company Akzo Nobel, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives and acrylic acid and esters thereof, such as the methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold, for example, under the name Gant
  • the cationic fixing film-forming polymers that can be used according to the present invention are preferably selected from polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly attached thereto, and having a molecular weight of between 500 and about 5 000 000 and preferably between 1000 and 3 000 000.
  • R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 radical
  • A is a linear or branched alkyl group comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • Ri and R2 which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • X denotes a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • the copolymers of the family (1 ) also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (Ci-C 4 ) alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • - fatty-chain polymers containing a vinylpyrrolidone unit such as the products sold under the name Styleze W20 and Styleze W10 by the company ISP, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactann/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP, and
  • non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides preferably containing quaternary ammonium, such as those described in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups.
  • non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides preferably containing quaternary ammonium, such as those described in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups.
  • Such products are sold in particular under the trade names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15 and Jaguar C 17 by Meyhall;
  • chitosans or salts thereof are, in particular, chitosan acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrol idonecarboxylate.
  • chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of 90.5% by weight sold under the name Kytan Brut Standard by the company Aber Technologies, and chitosan pyrrol idonecarboxylate sold under the name Kytamer® PC by the company Amerchol;
  • cationic cellulose derivatives such as copolymers of cellulose or of cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer comprising a quaternary ammonium, and disclosed in particular in patent US 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium,
  • methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt is methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are, more particularly, the products sold as Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company Akzo Nobel.
  • B and C can also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulfonic group connected via a hydrocarbon group, or alternatively B and C form part of a chain of a polymer comprising an ⁇ , ⁇ -dicarboxylic ethylene unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has been made to react with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.
  • amphoteric fixing polymers corresponding to the definition given above that are more particularly preferred are chosen from the following polymers:
  • Copolymers comprising acidic vinyl units and basic vinyl units, such as those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, a-chloroacrylic acid, and of a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamides and acrylamides.
  • a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, a-chloroacrylic acid
  • a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamides and acrylamide
  • At least one basic comonomer such as esters containing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.
  • the N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are compounds in which the alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N- ethylacrylamide, N-terf-butylacrylamide, N-terf-octylacrylamide, N- octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.
  • the acidic comonomers are selected more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic and fumaric acid and alkyl monoesters, having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, of maleic or fumaric acid or anhydride.
  • the preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, ⁇ , ⁇ '- dimethylaminoethyl and N-terf-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.
  • copolymers whose CTFA (4th edition, 1991 ) name is octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name Amphomer ® or Lovocryl ® 47 by the company Akzo Nobel, are particularly used.
  • this group being derived from diethylenetriamine, from triethylenetetramine or from dipropylenetriamine;
  • these polyaminoamides being crosslinked by addition reaction of a difunctional crosslinking agent selected from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides and bis-unsaturated derivatives, using from 0.025 to 0.35 mol of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide and acylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane sultone, or salts thereof.
  • a difunctional crosslinking agent selected from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides and bis-unsaturated derivatives
  • the saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid and 2,4,4- trimethyladipic acid, terephthalic acid, acids containing an ethylenic double bond such as, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid.
  • the alkane sultones used in the acylation are preferably propane sultone or butane sultone; the salts of the acylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.
  • R denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group
  • y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3
  • R12 and R13 represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl or propyl group
  • Ri 4 and R15 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sum of the carbon atoms in Ri and R15 does not exceed 10.
  • the polymers comprising such units can also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate.
  • methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate copolymers such as the product sold as Diaformer Z301 by Sandoz;
  • Ri 6 represents a group of formula:
  • R17, R18 and R19 which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue that are optionally interrupted by one or more nitrogen atoms and/or optionally substituted with one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio or sulfonic groups, an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group bears an amino residue, at least one of the groups R17, Ris and R19 being, in this case, a hydrogen atom;
  • R17, R18 and R19 each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids.
  • R 2 o represents a hydrogen atom, a CH 3 O, CH 3 CH 2 O or phenyl group
  • R21 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl
  • R22 denotes a hydrogen atom or a Ci-6 lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl
  • R23 denotes a Ci-6 lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -R24-N(R22)2, R24 representing a -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 - CH2-CH2- or -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )- group, R22 having the meanings mentioned above.
  • Amphoteric polymers of the -D-X-D-X- type chosen from:
  • E or E', E or E' which may be identical or different, denote a divalent group that is an alkylene group with a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with hydroxyl groups and which can comprise, in addition to the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and/or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine or alkenylamine groups, hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and/or urethane groups,
  • E denotes the symbol E or E' and at least once E';
  • E having the meaning given above and E' is a divalent group that is an alkylene group with a straight or branched chain having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and containing one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted with an alkyl chain that is optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily comprising one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate.
  • (9) (Ci-C 5 )alkyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with an ⁇ , ⁇ -dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N,N- dimethylaminopropylamine or by semiesterification with an N,N- dialkylaminoalkanol.
  • These copolymers can also comprise other vinyl comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam.
  • amphoteric fixing polymers mentioned above, the ones that are most particularly preferred according to the invention are those of family (3), such as the copolymers whose CTFA name is octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names Amphomer ® , Amphomer ® LV 71 or Lovocryl ® 47 by the company Akzo Nobel and those of family (4) such as the copolymers of methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate, sold, for example, under the name Diaformer Z301 by the company Sandoz.
  • family (3) such as the copolymers whose CTFA name is octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names Amphomer ® , Amphomer ® LV 71 or Lovocryl ® 47 by the company Akzo Nobel
  • the nonionic fixing polymers that may be used according to the present invention are selected, for example, from:
  • vinyl acetate copolymers for instance copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester; copolymers of vinyl acetate and of ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example of dibutyl maleate;
  • styrene copolymers for instance copolymers of styrene and of an alkyl (meth)acrylate, such as the products Mowilith ® LDM 691 1 , Mowilith ® DM 61 1 and Mowilith ® LDM 6070 sold by the company Hoechst, and the products Rhodopas ® SD 215 and Rhodopas ® DS 910 sold by the company Rhone- Poulenc; copolymers of styrene, of alkyl methacrylate and of alkyl acrylate; copolymers of styrene and of butadiene; or copolymers of styrene, of butadiene and of vinylpyridine;
  • an alkyl (meth)acrylate such as the products Mowilith ® LDM 691 1 , Mowilith ® DM 61 1 and Mowilith ® LDM 6070 sold by the company Hoechst, and the
  • vinyllactam homopolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers and such as the polyvinylcaprolactam sold under the name Luviskol ® Plus by the company BASF; and
  • vinyllactam copolymers such as a poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec ® VPC 55K65W by the company BASF, poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers, such as those sold under the name PVPVA ® S630L by the company ISP, Luviskol ® VA 73, VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 28 by the company BASF; and poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate) terpolymers, for instance the product sold under the name Luviskol ® VAP 343 by the company BASF.
  • a poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec ® VPC 55K65W by the company BASF poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers, such as those sold under
  • the alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above preferably have from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • fixing polymers of grafted silicone type comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer and the other being grafted to the said main chain.
  • These polymers may be amphoteric, anionic or nonionic, and are preferably anionic or nonionic.
  • Such polymers are, for example, copolymers that may be obtained by free radical polymerization from the monomer mixture formed from:
  • v is a number ranging from 5 to 700, the weight percentages being calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers.
  • grafted silicone polymers are in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) to which mixed polymer units of the poly(meth)acrylic acid type and of the poly(alkyl (meth)acrylate) type are grafted via a thiopropylene-type connecting link and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) to which polymer units of the poly(isobutyl (meth)acrylate) type are grafted via a thiopropylene-type connecting link.
  • PDMSs polydimethylsiloxanes
  • PDMSs polydimethylsiloxanes
  • silicone fixing polymer Another type of silicone fixing polymer that may be mentioned is the product Luviflex Silk, sold by the company BASF.
  • fixing polymers it is also possible to use functionalized or non- functionalized, cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric, silicone or non-silicone polyurethanes, or mixtures thereof.
  • polyurethanes particularly intended by the present invention are those disclosed in patents EP 0 751 162, EP 0 637 600, EP 0 648 485 and FR 2 743 297, of which the Applicant is the proprietor, and patents EP 0 656 021 or WO 94/03510 from the company BASF and EP 0 619 1 1 1 from the company Akzo Nobel.
  • the fixing polymer(s) of the present invention are present in a concentration ranging from 0.1 % to 40%, preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight and even more preferentially ranging from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the surfactants of the composition according to the invention are of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic type.
  • surfactant means any compound that reduces the surface tension of a liquid, and in particular of water at 25°C, whose chemical structure a) does not involve a polymerization reaction or b) involves only the polymerization of an alkylene oxide and/or of glycidol.
  • the surfactants may be linear or branched.
  • anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyi sulfates, alkyi ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamat.es, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyi monoesters of polyglycoside-poly
  • These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
  • the salts of C6-C2 4 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be selected from C6-C2 4 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C2 4 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C2 4 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
  • anionic surfactant(s) When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts.
  • alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts.
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2- amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.
  • anionic surfactants use is preferably made of (Ce- C2 4 )alkyl sulfates, (C6-C2 4 )alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.
  • (Ci2-C2o)alkyl sulfates (C12- C2o)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.
  • (Ci2-C2o)alkyl sulfates (C12- C2o)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.
  • sodium lauryl ether sulfate containing 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), which are preferably (a) non- silicone surfactant(s), which can be used in the present invention may in particular be derivatives of optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives comprising at least one anionic group, such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
  • Rb represents a ⁇ -hydroxyethyl group
  • ⁇ Rc represents a carboxymethyl group
  • ⁇ M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and
  • ⁇ X " represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfates, (Ci-
  • ⁇ B represents the group -CH 2 -CH 2 -O-X'
  • ⁇ X' represents the group -CH 2 -C(O)OH, -CH 2 -C(O)OZ', -CH 2 -CH 2 -C(O)OH or -CH 2 -CH 2 -C(O)OZ', or a hydrogen atom;
  • ⁇ r represents the group -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ', -CH 2 -CH(OH)-SO 3 H or the group -CH 2 -CH(OH)-SO 3 -Z';
  • ⁇ Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • Ra' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-C(O)OH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially of C17 and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.
  • the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ® C2M Concentrate.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above use is preferably made of (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (Cs- C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from cocamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) which can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise, for example, salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include:
  • ⁇ Rs to Rn which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, it being understood that at least one of the groups Rs to Rn comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and
  • ⁇ X " represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfates, (Ci- C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
  • the aliphatic groups of Rs to Rn may also comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic groups of Rs to Rn are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-Ce)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12- C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (Ci2-C22)alkylacetate, C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl, X " is an anionic counterion chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci- C 4 )alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates.
  • quaternary ammonium salts of formula (A3) preference is given firstly to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethyl- ammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or else, secondly, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylamnnoniunn methosulfate, or else, lastly, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyl- di methyl (myristyl a
  • ⁇ Ri2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives
  • ⁇ Ri3 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C 4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
  • ⁇ Ri 4 represents a Ci-C 4 alkyl group
  • ⁇ Ri 5 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C 4 alkyl group
  • ⁇ X " represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfates, (Ci- C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates.
  • Ri2 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, Ri 4 denotes a methyl group, and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
  • ⁇ R16 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms;
  • Ri 7 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH 2 )3-N + (Ri6a)(Ri 7 a)(Ri8a), X " ;
  • Ri6a, Ri 7 a, Risa, Ris, R19, R20 and R21 which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and ⁇ X " , which may be identical or different, represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci- C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
  • ⁇ X " which may be identical or different, represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, provided by Finetex
  • ⁇ R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,
  • ⁇ R23 is selected from:
  • ⁇ R25 is selected from:
  • R2 4 , R26 and R28 which are identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon radicals;
  • ⁇ r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,
  • ⁇ y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10,
  • ⁇ X " represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion
  • the alkyl groups F1 ⁇ 2 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • F1 ⁇ 2 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • R 2 3 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be long and may have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R2 4 , R26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon- based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 .
  • y is advantageously equal to 1 .
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, equal 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anionic counterion X " is preferably a halide, such as chloride, bromide or iodide; a (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfate or a (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonate.
  • a halide such as chloride, bromide or iodide
  • a (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfate or a (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonate it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function.
  • the anionic counterion X " is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
  • R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group
  • - R23 is chosen from: the group
  • - R25 is chosen from: the group
  • a hydrogen atom - R2 4 , R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.
  • examples that may be mentioned include salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium,
  • acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and originate more particularly from a vegetable oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil.
  • a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil.
  • the compound comprises several acyl groups, the latter can be identical or different.
  • This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
  • composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium salts of monoesters, diesters and triesters with a weight majority of diester salts.
  • ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
  • Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 .
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
  • cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethyl- hydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylamnnoniunn methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactant(s) predominantly comprise fatty chains of 8 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • fatty chain means, as for the associative polymers, a linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from 8 to 30 and preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the surfactants are often mixtures of compounds especially having different fatty-alkyl chains.
  • the surfactants that may be used in the composition of the invention comprise a mixture of compounds having different fatty chain lengths, this mixture comprising more than 50% of compounds with fatty chains ranging from Cs to Ci 4 .
  • the anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactant(s) of the present invention are present in a concentration of greater than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably in a concentration ranging from 2% to 40%, preferentially from 2% to 25% and even more preferentially ranging from 4% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may be aqueous or anhydrous. It is preferably aqueous.
  • the composition may comprise at least one organic solvent preferably chosen from Ci-C 4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; acetone, propylene carbonate, benzyl alcohol, glycol ether derivatives; aminomethylpropanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • Ci-C 4 lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol
  • polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols
  • acetone propylene carbonate
  • benzyl alcohol glycol ether derivatives
  • aminomethylpropanol and mixtures thereof.
  • the pH of the compositions used according to the invention is generally between 1 and 13, preferably between 3 and 1 1 and even more preferentially between 6 and 9.
  • the composition according to the invention may contain active agents conventionally used in the temporary shaping of hair, other than those described previously, and chosen from nonionic surfactants, silicones, non- associative thickeners, cationic associative polymers, direct dyes, in particular cationic or natural dyes or oxidation dyes, organic or mineral pigments, UV- screening agents, fillers, especially nacres, T1O2, resins or clays, fragrances, peptizers, vitamins, amino acids, preserving agents, agents for long-lasting shaping of the hair, especially thiol-based organic reducing agents, non-thiol- based organic reducing agents, alkaline agents, etc.
  • active agents conventionally used in the temporary shaping of hair other than those described previously, and chosen from nonionic surfactants, silicones, non- associative thickeners, cationic associative polymers, direct dyes, in particular cationic or natural dyes or oxidation dyes, organic or mineral pigments, UV- screening agents, fillers, especially n
  • the compositions are in the form of gels.
  • the compositions have a viscosity of greater than or equal to 4 Pa.s and better still ranging from 4 Pa.s to 500 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s "1 (measurable, for example, with a Haake RS600 rheometer).
  • composition according to the invention may especially be used as a leave-in application on the hair.
  • a subject of the invention is also a process for treating keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.
  • the styling gel formulations below according to the invention were prepared. The concentrations are expressed as mass percentages of active materials in the final composition.
  • the gel obtained is homogeneous and thick enough to enable quick and easy application of the composition to the hair.
  • the product slides well in the hands and on the hair so as to obtain uniform distribution over the entire head of hair.
  • the hold of the hair is evaluated by successive passes of cold flat tongs through the lock. As more and more passes are performed, the lock becomes less rigid since the polymer film breaks. The more the lock withstands the passes of the cold tongs, the greater the hold of the gel .
  • the locks are then classed according to their degree of cleanliness (removal of the product, smooth feel with no residues) by comparison with an untreated lock and relative to the same gel without surfactant.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique, en particulier une composition pour les cheveux, qui comprend: au moins un polymère associatif anionique ou non ionique, au moins un polymère fixant, et au moins un tensioactif anionique, cationique ou amphotère dont le contenu en poids dans la composition est supérieur ou égal à 2%.
PCT/EP2012/076162 2011-12-19 2012-12-19 Composition cosmétique comprenant un polymère associatif anionique ou non ionique, un polymère fixant et au moins 2% d'un tensioactif WO2013092719A1 (fr)

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FR1161945 2011-12-19
FR1161945A FR2984136B1 (fr) 2011-12-19 2011-12-19 Composition cosmetique comprenant un polymere associatif anionique ou non ionique, un polymere fixant et un tensioactif particulier et utilisation en coiffage
US201261592991P 2012-01-31 2012-01-31
US61/592,991 2012-01-31

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Cited By (6)

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US10039939B2 (en) 2014-10-01 2018-08-07 L'oreal Sulfate-free cleansing composition with thickener
US11357714B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-06-14 Chembeau LLC Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof
US11497691B2 (en) 2018-12-14 2022-11-15 The Procter & Gamble Company Shampoo composition comprising sheet-like microcapsules
US11628126B2 (en) 2018-06-05 2023-04-18 The Procter & Gamble Company Clear cleansing composition
US11633072B2 (en) 2021-02-12 2023-04-25 The Procter & Gamble Company Multi-phase shampoo composition with an aesthetic design
US12053130B2 (en) 2021-02-12 2024-08-06 The Procter & Gamble Company Container containing a shampoo composition with an aesthetic design formed by bubbles

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MX2019004053A (es) * 2016-10-10 2019-06-10 Procter & Gamble Composiciones para el cuidado personal sustancialmente libres de surfactantes sulfatados y que contienen una red de gel.
US11896689B2 (en) 2019-06-28 2024-02-13 The Procter & Gamble Company Method of making a clear personal care comprising microcapsules
WO2021163728A1 (fr) 2020-02-14 2021-08-19 The Procter & Gamble Company Bouteille conçue pour stocker une composition liquide pourvue d'un motif esthétique en suspension en son sein
CN115300405B (zh) * 2022-08-11 2024-06-14 清远天赐高新材料有限公司 一种具有护色效果的发用组合物及其制备方法和应用

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WO1993023009A1 (fr) 1992-05-12 1993-11-25 Minnesota Mining And Manufacturing Company Polymeres utilises dans des compositions cosmetiques et des produits de soins
EP0640105A1 (fr) 1992-05-15 1995-03-01 The Procter & Gamble Company Agents adhesifs contenant un polymere a greffe polysiloxane et leur compositions cosmetiques
EP0582152A2 (fr) 1992-07-28 1994-02-09 Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation Composition cosmétique pour les cheveux
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WO1994003510A1 (fr) 1992-07-29 1994-02-17 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Utilisation de polyurethannes solubles dans l'eau ou dispersibles dans l'eau comme adjuvants dans des preparations cosmetiques et pharmaceutiques, et polyurethannes renfermant des polyolpolylactiques incorpores par polymerisation
EP0619111A1 (fr) 1993-04-06 1994-10-12 National Starch and Chemical Investment Holding Corporation Utilisation des polyuréthanes avec des groupes carboxyliques fonctionelle comme agent fixateur des cheveux
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WO2008074003A1 (fr) * 2006-12-13 2008-06-19 Alberto-Culver Company Composition coiffante
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Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US10039939B2 (en) 2014-10-01 2018-08-07 L'oreal Sulfate-free cleansing composition with thickener
US11628126B2 (en) 2018-06-05 2023-04-18 The Procter & Gamble Company Clear cleansing composition
US11497691B2 (en) 2018-12-14 2022-11-15 The Procter & Gamble Company Shampoo composition comprising sheet-like microcapsules
US11357714B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-06-14 Chembeau LLC Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof
US11491092B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-11-08 Chembeau LLC Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof
US11801211B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2023-10-31 Chembeau LLC Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof
US11633072B2 (en) 2021-02-12 2023-04-25 The Procter & Gamble Company Multi-phase shampoo composition with an aesthetic design
US12053130B2 (en) 2021-02-12 2024-08-06 The Procter & Gamble Company Container containing a shampoo composition with an aesthetic design formed by bubbles

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FR2984136A1 (fr) 2013-06-21

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