WO2009074464A2 - Hair-conditioning products containing cationic compounds and selected silicones and/or cosmetic oils - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic preparations, especially hair-conditioning products, that contain at least one cationic compound and at least one silicone polymer and/or at least one cosmetic oil, the weight ratio of the cationic compound to silicones and/or cosmetic oils being 20 : 1 to 1 : 20.

Description

 "Hair conditioning agents with cationic compounds and selected silicones and / or cosmetic oils"

The invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing cationic compounds and selected silicones and / or cosmetic oils and the use of these agents for the treatment of skin and hair.

Not least due to the heavy use of hair, for example by dyeing or perming, as well as by the cleaning of the hair with shampoos and by environmental pollution, the importance of care products with the longest possible effect increases.

The available active ingredients generally preferably act on the hair surface. However, the known active ingredients can not cover all needs sufficiently. There is therefore still a need for active ingredients or combinations of active substances for cosmetic products with good care properties and good biodegradability. In particular in dye-containing and / or electrolyte-containing formulations, there is a need for additional skin-care active ingredients which can be incorporated without problems into known formulations.

Quaternary ammonium compounds of the mono-, di- and / or trialkylammonium type have been known for a long time. A disadvantage of these compounds, however, is their lack of biodegradability. Therefore, cationic compounds containing at least one ester group, the so-called ester quats, have been developed. These, however, show a sensation of being unpleasantly dull in terms of the feel and feel of wet skin and hair as well as the touch and feel of the rewashed skin or hair, which is also perceived as "squeaky" audible. However, it has now surprisingly been found that an active ingredient combination of at least one derivative of the cationic compounds and at least one silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of amino-functional silicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones and / or the group of In addition to at least one derivative of the cationic compounds of the formula I, a highly preferred combination of active substances furthermore contains at least one dimethicone and / or a cyclomethicone and furthermore at least one cosmetic oil ste In addition to at least one derivative of the cationic compounds of the formula I, the active substance combination furthermore contains at least one dimethiconol and / or a cyclomethicone and / or furthermore at least one cosmetic oil.

When using this combination, there are surprisingly good properties of the treated skin and hair, in particular to improved combing, improved gloss and improved elasticity as well as a significantly increased wash ability dyed hair, as well as a longer shelf life in one Simultaneous better forming performance in corrugations such as water wave and perm. A first subject of the present invention is therefore a composition for the treatment of keratinic fibers, comprising a) at least one quaternary compound according to the formula I and b) at least one silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of amino-functional silicones and / or the group of cyclomethiconols and / or the group of dimethicones and / or the group of cosmetic oils and / or mixtures thereof, wherein the weight ratio of imidazoline derivatives (a) to the respective silicone polymer or the cosmetic oil or mixtures thereof (b) 20: 1 to 1: 20 based on the respective active substance contents, and c) a cosmetic carrier.

The compositions according to the invention contain an active ingredient combination of at least two constituents, the constituents a) and b) being used within a certain weight ratio to one another. In preferred agents according to the invention, the weight ratio of behenoyl derivatives a) of the formula I to one of the silicone derivatives and / or the cosmetic oil b) is from 20: 1 to 1:20, more preferably from 10: 1 to 1:10, particularly preferably from 5: 1 to 1 : 5 and especially 2.5: 1 to 1: 2.5. In the preferred case where besides the ingredient a), both a silicone polymer and a cosmetic oil are further included, the weight ratio between the silicone polymer and the cosmetic oil is at least 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably 5: 1 to 1: 5, more preferably 3: 1 to 1: 5, especially 1: 3 and most preferably 1: 2. In this preferred case in which both at least one silicone polymer and further at least one cosmetic oil is included as component b), the silicone polymer is preferably selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of cyclomethicones. In this case, it may further be particularly preferred if both a dimethiconol and a cyclomethicone are included together with the cosmetic oil. Ingredients a) and b) are described in detail below. As far as below the active ingredient complex (A) is spoken, this statement refers to the ingredients contained in the inventive compositions a), and b). Hair treatment compositions for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair dyes, bleaching agents, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair sprays, hair rinses, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair dye shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair lotions , Mousse, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof. By combing is understood according to the invention both the combability of the wet fiber, as well as the combability of the dry fiber. As a measure of the combing used the combing work or the force used during the combing process of a fiber collective. The measurement parameters can be assessed by the skilled person or quantified by measuring devices.

The grip defines the tactility of a fiber collective, whereby the expert sensoryly senses and evaluates the parameters fullness and suppleness of the collective.

According to the invention, cosmetic creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, for example shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are particularly suitable for use on the hair, are particularly suitable as cosmetic carriers. But it is also conceivable to integrate the ingredients in a powdered or tablet-like formulation, which is dissolved in water before use. The cosmetic carriers may in particular be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic. An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water. For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers include aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy, in particular methanol, ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol, iso-hexanols, glycol, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol or 1, 6-hexanediol to understand. The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain further organic solvents, for example methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents. As ingredient a) the agents according to the invention comprise at least one quaternary compound, ie a compound according to the formula I.

OR ₃

Il

R - C - X - R ₁ - N ⁺ - R ₂ A ^" Formula I

IR ₄ in which the radical R is a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl or

Alkenyl group having 12 to 36 carbon atoms,

X is oxygen or an NR ₅ group,

R _{1 represents} a substituted or unsubstituted alkylene group of 2 to 6

Carbon atoms, R ₂ , R ₃ and R _{4 are} each independently an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R ₅ is hydrogen, methyl or ethyl and

A ^" represents a physiologically acceptable anion, such as halide, for example fluoride, chloride, bromide, or anions such as phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, sulfate or methosulfate.

It is also encompassed according to the invention that at least two different species, each of which is individually covered by formula I, can be used as a mixture.

Commercial products which correspond to this formula I are, for example, Schercoquat BAS, Lexquat AMG-BEO, Akypoquat 131, Quartamin BTC-131 or Incroquat Behenyl HE. The aforementioned commercial products are preferably used according to the invention. The compounds of the formula I are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight. % contain. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

As ingredient b), the compositions according to the invention contain at least one silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of amino-functional silicones and / or the group of dimethicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones and / or the group of cosmetic oils. These ingredients are described below. The dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (Sil): (SiR ¹ ₃ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (Sil)

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (SiH):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals, such as vinyl, Halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CHz) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of Dimethicone lie between 1,000 D and 10000000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ⁰ C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are 1000-5000000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps. Most preferred are viscosities around the range of about 60,000 cps. The word "about" defines a deviation from the stated value following the word "about" which is customary in the art for technically manufactured products. By way of example, reference may be made here to the product "Dow Corning 200 with 6000 OcSt." If the dimethicones of the invention are used as emulsion, then the droplet size of the emulsified particles is 0.01 μm to 10000 μm, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, very particularly The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Sil .2 )

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _x -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (Sil .2), in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and especially 0 to 10, stands.

The dimethicones (Sil) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5 wt.% Based on the total composition.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may e.g. by the formula (Si-2)

M (R _a Q _b Si0 ₍₄ - _a - _{b) / 2} ) _x (R _c Si0 ₍₄ - _{c) / 2} ) _y M (Si-2) Be described, taking in the above formula

R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6

Carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ, wherein

R ^{1 is} a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and

Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group; a assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, b takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, a + b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and x a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25; and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000 and most preferred is from about 150 to about 1000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.

Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R in formula (Si-2) include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, - CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CHz) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is according to formula (Si-2) an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for said Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _Z NH ₂ , where z is an integer greater than or equal to 1. Another possible formula for said Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _zz NH, where both z and zz independently of one another are an integer greater than or equal to 1 which structure comprises diamino ring structures such as piperazinyl. Said Z is most preferably an -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for said Z is - N (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _ZZ NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0. Q according to formula (Si-2) is most preferably a polar amino-functional radical of formula - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ .

In the formula (Si-2), α assumes values in the range of 0 to 2, b takes values in the range of 2 to 3, a + b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range of 1 to 3. The molar ratio of the R _a Q _b SiO _{(4 a a b) / 2} units to the R ₀ SiO _{(4 C) / 2} units in formula (Si-2) is in the range of about 1: From 2 to 1: 65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1: 20. If one or more of the above formula (Si-2) silicones are used then the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.

Preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations of the invention contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3), R _'a G ₃ - _a -Si (OSiG _{2) n} - (OSiG _b R' ₂ _ _{b) m} -O-SiG ₃ - _a - R _'a (Si-3), wherein means:

G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C / H ₂ C / H2C / H3, -L) ~ C / H (C / H3) 2) ~ C / H (L / H3) 2 -O ~ _J C / Π2C / H2C / Π2C / H3, -C / H2C / H2C / Π2C / Π3, -O-CH ₂ CH (CH _{3) 2,} -CH ₂ CH (CHs) _2, -0-CH (CH ₃₎ CH ₂ CH _3, -CH (CH ₃₎ CH ₂ CH _3, - OC (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ ; a is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0; b is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1, m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,

R ^' is a monovalent radical selected from -QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R") ₂ -QN (R ¹¹ J ₂ -QN ⁺ (R ") ₃ A- -QN ⁺ H (R ") ₂ ^a" QN ⁺ H ₂ (R ") ^a" -QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R" H ₂ a ^", each Q is a chemical bond, -CH ₂ - , -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C (CH ₂ ) ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₂ -, R "is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the Ci. ₂₀ -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH _3, -CH (CH _{3) 2,} -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH _3, -CH ₂ CH (CH _{3) 2,} -CH (CH ₃₎ CH ₂ CH _3, -C (CH ₃ J ₃ , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

Cationic silicone oils, such as the commercially available Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone referred to as amodimethicone), DC 2-2078 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone), DC 5 are suitable according to the invention -7113 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Silicone Quaternium 16), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary. Polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si 3-a)

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _n [O-Si (CH ₃ )] _m -OSi (CH ₃ ) ₃ (Si-3a),

I

CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes. These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration and are available, for example, under the name Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone).

Particular preference is also given to compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3b)

R- [Si (CH _{3) 2} -O] _n1 [Si (R> O] _m - [Si (CH _{3) 2} -O] _n2 SiMe ₂ R (Si-3b),

(CH ₂ ) ₃ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂ , wherein

R is -OH, a (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) (Ci to C ₂₀ ) -

Alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group,

R 'is -OH, a (Ci to C ₂₀ ) alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150 is, wherein the sum (n1 + n2) preferably takes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are according to the INCI declaration as Amodimethicone, or as a functionalized Amodimethicone, such as bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (for example, as Commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning), trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicone (available, for example, as a commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA from Clariant). Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are used, preference is given to cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention which contain an amino-functional silicone whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g is. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight of amino-functional silicone (s).

As a silicone, the compositions of the invention may contain at least one polyammonium-polysiloxane compound. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds may be obtained for example under the trade name Baysilone® ^® GE Bayer Silicones. The products named Baysilone TP 3911, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 3911 as the active component of the compositions according to the invention.

The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0 , 05 to 2.5 wt.% Each used in relation to the total composition.

The cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention. Here, cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)

in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.

The silicones described above have a backbone composed of -Si-O-Si units. Of course, these Si-O-Si units may also be represented by carbon chains be interrupted. Appropriate molecules are accessible by chain extension reactions and are preferably used in the form of silicone-in-water emulsions. Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5)

R _{3 is} Si [O-SiR 2] χ- (CH ₂ ) _n - [O-SiR ₂ ] _y -O-SiR 3 (Si-5), in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -Phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the d_ ₂ o-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ J ₃₎ , x and y respectively represent a number of 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and especially 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and especially for 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 stands.

As further silicones in addition to the dimethicones, dimethiconols, amodimethicones and / or cyclomethicones according to the invention, water-soluble silicones may be present in the compositions according to the invention.

With preference, these optional additional silicones are water-soluble.

Corresponding hydrophilic silicones are selected, for example, from the compounds of the formulas (Si-6) and / or (Si-7). Particularly preferred water-soluble silicone-based surfactants are selected from the group of dimethicone copolyols which are preferably alkoxylated, in particular polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated.

Dimethicone copolyols are understood according to the invention as meaning preferably polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general formulas (Si-6) or (Si-7):

O) _b -R (Si-6)

R'- Si ^■ [OSi (CH _{3) 2] x} - (OC ₂ H _{4) a} - (OC ₃ H _{6) b} -OR "

(Si-7) where the radical R is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 12 C atoms or a hydroxyl group, the radicals R 'and R "denote alkyl groups having 1 to 12 C atoms, x represents an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30, y represents an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10 and a and b are integers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30.

Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example, the products sold commercially under the trade name SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING (Dow).

Dimethicone copolyols particularly preferred according to the invention are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193 (Dow).

The dimethicone copolyols are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight. % of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition. Finally, among the silicone compounds Dimethiconole (Si8) understood. Dimethiconols form a further group of silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (Si8 - I): (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) (Si 8 - I)

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (Si8 - II):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CHz) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each independently run from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1,000 D and 10000000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ⁰ C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are from 1000 to 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

When the dimethiconols of the invention are used as an emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.01 μm to 10,000 μm, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 μm, and most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering. Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, X-21-5619 (Shin- Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (U.S. Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Coming 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all Dow Coming Corporation previously mentioned), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all aforementioned Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all aforementioned GE Silicones), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 31 12 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all Wacker-Chemie GmbH mentioned above). The dimethiconols (Si8) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethiconol based on the composition. If a mixture of at least two silicones is used, this mixture is in the inventive compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 0.01 to 8 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .% And in particular 0.1 to 5 wt.% Of silicone mixture based on the composition.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that a mixture of several ingredients b) from the different classes mentioned, at least two different classes can be used in the compositions of the invention. Furthermore fall under the inventive component b) of the invention

Active substance combination (A) cosmetic oils. Preferably, these oil bodies have a melting point of less than 50 ⁰ C, more preferably less than 45 ⁰ C, most preferably less than 40

⁰ C, most preferably less than 35 ⁰ C and most preferably the cosmetic oils are flowable at a temperature of less than 30 ⁰ C. In the following, these oils are defined and described in more detail.

Examples of natural and synthetic cosmetic oils include: vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils. liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) - cyclohexan (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred. Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid , Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN),

Decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,

Propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched

Fatty acids with glycerine,

Fatty acid partial glycerides, which are monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical

Mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the

Formula (D4-I),

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m R ¹

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² (D4-I)

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q R ³ in the R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 is} independently of one another hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, Carbon atoms are provided with the proviso that at least one of these groups is an acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{1 is} an acyl radical and R ² and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid , Linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

Natural oils include, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil , Evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil. Preferred natural oils contain at least the fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid. Particularly preferred natural oils contain the fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid in a total amount of at least 50% by weight of the fatty acids. Very particularly preferred oils are furthermore distinguished by an additional content of squalene. Highly preferred natural oils and their mixtures also have a content of linolenic acids.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that at least two natural oils can be mixed together. Preferred blends of the natural oils are amaranth seed oil with at least one sea buckthorn oil, shea butter amaranth seed oil, camellina oil amaranth seed oil, amaranth seed oil with olive oil, amaranth seed oil with macadamia nut oil, olive oil with at least one sea buckthorn oil, camelina olive oil, shea butter olive oil, macadamia nut oil and at least one sea buckthorn oil, macadamia nut oil shea butter.

Argan oil is one of the most preferred natural oils.

Another preferred natural oil is Amaranth seed oil. A suitable oil according to the invention is available, for example, under the trade name "Amaranth Seed OiI" from the company Euro Ingredients.

Shea butter is another example of natural oils. Shea butter according to the invention is by no means used alone but only in admixture with at least one further natural oil, so that the total content of the fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid is at least 50% by weight.

The amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions used according to the invention is usually 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular 0.1 to 15% by weight. -%.

A very particularly preferred embodiment contains in addition to the two ingredients a) and b) additionally at least one further cationic compound. This cationic compound can be a cationic surfactant, a cationic polymer or at least one cationic surfactant and one cationic polymer. Cationic in the sense of the invention in this embodiment is also to be understood as an amphoteric polymer. For the description and definition of both the other cationic surfactants and the cationic and / or amphoteric polymers will be discussed in the following description at a given place.

In many cases, the agents contain at least one surface-active substance, with both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surface-active substances being suitable in principle. The choice of surfactants depends on the nature of the agent. In the case of a shampoo in particular at least one Surfactant selected from the group of anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants. It is preferred here that at least one anionic and at least one zwitterionic surface-active substance is chosen. These surface-active substances are particularly preferably selected from the group of particularly mild surface-active substances. In many cases, however, it has proved to be advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants. The ratio between anionic and zwitterionic surface-active substances is between 10: 1 and 1: 5. The ratio is particularly preferably 5: 1 to 1: 2. If the composition is a hair-conditioning composition, cationic surfactants are preferably used as surface-active substances or nonionic surfactants selected. Again, a selection of the so-called mild surface-active substances is particularly preferred.

The surfactants essentially comprise two groups, the surfactants and the emulsifiers.

The term surfactants (T) is understood to mean surface-active substances which form adsorption layers at the upper and boundary surfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to give micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases.

Suitable anionic surfactants (tanion) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono and dialkylsulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates, acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (especially wheat-based vegetable products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution. Examples of particularly suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C Atoms (soaps),

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear

Alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group. If one for the esterification fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, ie z. B. lauric, myristic, palimitin or stearic acid or technical fatty acid fractions, one obtains the inventively preferred suitable C ₁₂ - C ₁₈ acyl isethionates.

Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups. Particularly suitable sulfosuccinic acid esters are derived from fatty alcohol fractions having 12- 18 C atoms. linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, hydroxysulfonates essentially corresponding to at least one of the following two formulas or mixtures thereof and their salts, CH ₃ - (CH _{2) y} -CHOH- (CH _{2) p} - (CH-SO ₃ M) - (CH _{2) z} -CH ₂ -O- (C _n H _2n O) _x -H and / or CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) _y - (CH-SO ₃ M) - (CH ₂ ) _p -CHOH- (CH ₂ ) _z - CH ₂ -O- (C _n H _2n O) _x -H where in both formulas y and z = 0 or integers from 1 to 18, p = 0, 1 or 2 and the sum (y + z + p) is a number from 12 to 18, x = 0 or a number from 1 to 30 and n is an integer from 2 to 4 and M = H or alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc and / or an ammo niumion, which may optionally be substituted, in particular mono-, di-, tri- or tetraammonium ions having C1 to C4 alkyl, alkenyl or aryl radicals, sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylenepropylene glycol of the formula R ¹ - (CHOSO ₃ M) -CHR ³ - (OCHR ⁴ -CH ₂ ) n -OR ² with R ¹ , a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ² for a linear or branched, saturated alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ³ for hydrogen or a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ^{4 is} hydrogen or a methyl radical and M is hydrogen, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium, in which the alkyl and alkanol radicals each have 1 to 4 C atoms, or a metal atom selected from Lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium or magnesium and n is a number in the range of 0 to 12 and furthermore the total number of C atoms contained in R ¹ and R ^{3 is} 2 to 44,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2 to 15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -O- (PO-OX) -OR ² , in which R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a Rest (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently standing is hydrogen or a C ₁ to C ₄ hydrocarbon radical, is, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula RCO (AIkO) _n SO ₃ M in the RCO ^" for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C Atoms, Alk is CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n is from 0.5 to 5, and M is a metal such as alkali metal, especially sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, especially Magnesium, calcium, zinc, or ammonium ion, such as ⁺ NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another f for hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 hydrocarbon radical, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula R ⁸ OC- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _x -OCH ₂ - [CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H] -CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _z -SO ₃ X in which R ^{8 is} CO for a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X represents an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably monoglyceride sulfates are used, in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

Amide ether carboxylic acids, R ¹ -CO-NR ² -CH ₂ CH ₂ -O- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n CH ₂ COOM, with R ¹ as the straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having a number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n is an integer from 1 to 20, and R ² is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl, and M is Is hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as ⁺ NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another for hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical. Such products are available, for example, by the company Chem Y under the product Akypo ^®.

Acylglutamates of the formula XOOC-CH 2 CH 2 CH (C (NH) OR) -COOX in which RCO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal and or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium, Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation product. These protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation products are preferably present as alkali, ammonium, mono-, di- or trialkanolammonium salt. Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon® ^®, Maypon ^®, Gluadin® ^®, Hostapon® ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® commercially,

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettsäurekondensate.

In the compositions according to the invention it is particularly advantageous if mild anionic surfactants are used as anionic surfactants. In particular, by the mild anionic surfactants described below, the effect of the composition according to the invention is particularly mild and gentle especially with regard to the needs of stressed skin and damaged hair.

The following anionic surfactants are mild to particularly mild and are particularly preferred according to the invention and have already been described above: acyl lactylates,

Hydroxymischethersulfate,

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16 and their salts, acylsarcosides with 8 bis 24 C atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,

Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.

Alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms,

Alkyl- and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -O- (PO-OX) -OR ² , monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula ROC- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _x -OCH ₂ - [CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H] -CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _z -SO ₃ X,

Amide ether carboxylic acids, R ¹ -CO-NR ² -CH ₂ CH ₂ -O- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n CH ₂ COOM, Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble

Protein hydrolysates with a suitable fatty acid derivative, for example a

Fatty acid.

Acylglutamates and

Aspartates.

If the mild anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, it is particularly preferred that they have a narrow homolog distribution. Particularly mild anionic surfactants with polyglycol ether groups without restricted homolog distribution can, for example, also be obtained if, on the one hand, the number of polyglycol ether groups is 4 to 12 and Zn or Mg ions are chosen as counterion. One example is the commercial product Texapon.RTM ^® ASV.

Of course, all mild and anionic surfactants mentioned heretofore and in the following can also be used in the form of their salts. Particularly suitable mild anionic surfactants are in each case in the form of the lithium, magnesium, zinc, sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and Trialkanolammoniumsalze with 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group. The preferred ammonium ions are in addition to the ammonium ion as such monomethylammonium, dimethylammonium, trimethylammonium, monoethylammonium, diethylammonium, triethylammonium, monopropylammonium, dipropylammonium, tripropylammonium, monoisopropylammonium, diisopropylammonium, triisopropylammonium, monobutylammonium, dibutylammonium , Tributylammonium, monoisobutylammonium, diisobutylammonium, triisobutylammonium, mono-t-butylammonium, di-t-butylammonium, tri-t-butylammonium ions and mixed ammonium ions such as, for example, methyl ethylammonium, Dimethyl-ethyl-ammonium, methyl-diethylammonium, methyl-propyl-ammonium, methyl-ethyl-propyl-ammonium, ethyl-diisopropylammonium, ethyl-dibutyl-ammonium, ethyl-diisobutylammonium ions, etc. Of course, the teaching of the invention comprises also the other not explicitly mentioned ammonium ions of these alkanolammonium salts. Further mild anionic surfactants which are very particularly preferably used in the composition according to the invention are alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates derived from alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides of the general formula ( Tnio-2),

with the meaning

RC _6-22 alkyl or C _6-22 alkenyl,

G glycoside unit derived from a sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, p number from 1 to 10.

The mild anionic surfactant is preferably selected from the anionic alkyl polyglycosides, the ether carboxylic acids, the acyl isethionates, the protein fatty acid condensates, the taurates, the sulfosuccinates, the fatty acid amide ether sulfates, the NRE fatty alcohol ether sulfates, the acyl glutamates and the acylasparaginates and their

Mixtures.

According to the invention, the anionic alkyl polyglucosides, such as

Alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates, ether carboxylic acids,

Acylisethionate and Taurate and mixtures thereof used.

Very particular preference is given to the use of anionic alkylpolyglucosides and

Ethercarbonsäuren and mixtures thereof.

Highly preferred is the use of carboxylated alkyl polyglucosides and

Ethercarbonsäuren and mixtures thereof.

If mixtures of at least two different mild anionic surfactants are used as the mild anionic surfactant, the mixing ratio of these surfactants is at least 10: 1 to 1:10. Preferred is a mixing ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5, more preferably from 2.5: 1 to 1: 2.5, and most preferably from about 1, 5: 1 to 1: 1.5.

In the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides at least one hydroxyl group is preferably in at least one of the radicals G by -OC-. ₁₂ alkenyl-COOM, -OSO ₃ M, -OP (O) (OM) ₂ or -

0-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -SO ₃ M with M = H, alkali metal, NH ₄ or one of those already mentioned above

Replaced counterions such as Zn, Mg, alkanolammonium.

In this case, an alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylate is particularly preferably used in which -OC-. ₁₂ -

Alkylene-COOM -0 (CH ₂ -) _n C00M with M = H, Na or K and n = 1 to 3 means. Particularly preferably, the radical is 0-CH ₂ -COONa.

An alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylate in which the alkyl radical is particularly preferably used

Laurylrest is. Especially preferred is a Laurylglucosidcarboxylat as a Plantapon ^® LCG of

Cognis Germany is available.

In the alkyl glycosides of the general formula (Tnio-2), the glycoside units G are preferably derived from aldoses or ketoses.

The index p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization, i. The distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in a given compound always has to be an integer and can take here especially the values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a particular alkyl glycoside an analytic calculated arithmetical variable, which usually represents a fractional number. Preferably

Alkyl glycosides having a mean degree of oligomerization p of 1, 1 to 3.0 used. Particular preference is given to those alkyl glycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.5 and, in particular, lies between 1.1 and 1.4.

The alkyl radical R is derived from primary alcohols having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18

Carbon atoms off. Typical examples are caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol,

Lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and Behenylakohol and technical Fractions which, in addition to the saturated alcohols mentioned, may also contain portions of unsaturated alcohols and which are obtained on the basis of natural fats and oils, for example palm oil, palm kernel oil, coconut oil or beef tallow. The use of technical coconut oil is particularly preferred here.

In addition to the fatty alcohols mentioned, the alkyl glycosides can also be derived from synthetic primary alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the so-called oxo alcohols, which have a proportion of 5 to 40% by weight of branched isomers. Particularly preferred alkyl radicals are those having 8/10, 12/14, 8 to 16, 12 to 16 or 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Mixtures of the alkyl radicals result in a production starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. Other hydroxyl groups may also be etherified, for example.

The mild anionic surfactants used according to the invention and particularly preferably the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates are used in an amount of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15 wt .-% and most preferably used in an amount of 0.5 to 10.0 wt.%

The mild anionic surfactants used can be used as the sole anionic surfactant in the compositions, or mixtures of these mild anionic surfactants can be used with each other or with other conventional anionic surfactants. For example, the mild anionic surfactants and other anionic surfactants may be present in a weight ratio ranging from 5: 0.05 to 1: 2, more preferably 3: 0.5 to 1: 2, especially 2.5: 0.5 to 1: 1 , 5, and most preferably 1, 5: 1 to 1: 1.5. The amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants may be included in the compositions of the invention.

Zwitterionic surfactants (tweets) are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^ or -SO ₃ ^ group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, amino-propionates, aminoglycinates,

Imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.

Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -acylsarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants (Tnio) contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, one

Polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and Polyglykolethergruppe.

Such compounds are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers or the Fettalkoholpolypropylenglykolether or mixed fatty alcohol polyethers, addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty acid polyglycol ethers or the Fettsäurepolypropylenglykolether or mixed fatty acid polyethers, addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, the Alkylphenolpolyglykolether or alkylpolypropylene glycol, or mixed Alyklphenolpolyether, with a methyl or C ₂ - C ₆ - alkyl radical endgruppenverschlossene addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 C atoms, on Fe acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the sales names Dehydol ^® LS, Dehydol ^® LT (Cognis) types, C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

Addition products of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercial product Hydagen ^® HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ^® - types (Cognis), alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of formula (Tnio-1), R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _W OR ³ (Tnio-1) in the R ¹ CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is} linear or branched Alkyl radicals having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is from 1 to 20, amine oxides, hydroxy mixed ethers, Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters, addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type according to formula (E4-II),

in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. The index number p in the general formula (Tnio-2) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be integer and here before For all given values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic quantity, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁴ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides of chain length C ₈ -C ₁₀ (DP = 1 to 3) and alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C 9 _/ n oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹⁵ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated Ci _{2 /} i ₄ coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3

Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (Tnio-3), R ⁵ CO-NR ⁶ - [Z] (Tnio-3) in the R ⁵ CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{6 is} hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (Tnio-4): R ⁷ CO- (NR ⁸ ) -CH ₂ - [CH (OH) J ₄ -CH ₂ OH (Tnio-4)

Glucamides of the formula (Tnio-4) in which R ^{8 is} hydrogen or an alkyl group and R ⁷ CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, are preferably used as the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides. Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petro-, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures. Particular preference is given to fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (Tnio-4) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C 12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

The sugar surfactants may preferably be present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and most preferred are amounts of 0.5-7.5% by weight. Other typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, mixed ethers or mixed formalin, protein hydrolysates (especially wheat-based vegetable products) and polysorbates.

As preferred nonionic surfactants, the alkylene oxide adducts to saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid and the sugar surfactants have proven. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.

These connections are identified by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

The compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is usually preferred to start from the production of these substances from native plant or animal raw materials, so as to obtain substance mixtures with different, depending on the particular raw material alkyl chain lengths.

Particular preference is given to compositions according to the invention having an additional content of from 0.1 to 20% by weight of nonionic surfactants having an HLB value of from 2 to 18. Such products can be obtained by addition of ethylene oxide onto z. As fatty alcohols having 6 - 30 carbon atoms, to Fatty acids having 6-30 C-atoms, or with glycerol or sorbitan fatty acid partial esters based on Ci ₂ -C ₁₈ fatty acids or fatty acid produced at. The HLB value means the proportion of hydrophilic groups, eg. B. to glycol ether or polyol groups based on the total molecule.

Cationic surfactants are characterized as part of the active ingredient complex according to the invention in that, like the amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, they contribute to a significantly improved cosmetic appearance of the skin.

Cationic surfactants (Tkat) are generally derived from ammonium ions and have a structure (NR ¹ R ² R ³ R ⁴ ) ^* with a correspondingly negatively charged counterion. Further cationic surfactants are, for example, the esterquats or the imidazolium compounds. Cationic surfactants (Tkat) of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats, the imidazolines and the amidoamines are particularly preferably used according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkyl methylammonium chlorides, eg. For example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds and ester quats, especially quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. According to the invention, cationic compounds containing behenyl radicals, in particular the substances known as behentrimonium chloride or bromide (docosanyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide), can be used with particular preference. Other preferred QAVs have at least two behenyl residues. Commercially available, these substances are, for example, under the designations Genamin ^® KDMP (Clariant).

The cationic imidazoline compounds, i. Compounds having a positively charged imidazoline ring are described by the following illustrated formula (Imi-I).

O

Formula (Imi-I)

The radicals R are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds each contain the same for R Hydrocarbon radical. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 carbon atoms.

Particularly preferred are compounds having a chain length of at least 16

Carbon atoms and most preferably having at least 20 carbon atoms. A most preferred compound has a chain length of 21 carbon atoms.

A commercial product of this chain length is known, for example, under the name Quaternium-91. In the formula (Imi-I) is shown as a counterion methosulfate. However, according to the invention, the counterions also include the halides, such as chloride, fluoride, bromide, or else

Phosphates.

Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products

Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, and

Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually made by amidation of natural or synthetic

Fatty acids and fatty acid sections prepared with dialkylaminoamines. A compound of this group of substances which is particularly suitable according to the invention represents this under the name

Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercially available stearamidopropyl dimethylamine. The alkylamidoamines can be present both as such and converted by protonation in accordance acid solution into a quaternary compound in the composition, but they can, of course, the invention also as a permanent quaternary compound in the

Compositions are used. Examples of permanently quaternized amidoamines include the raw materials with the trade name Rewoquat ^® UTM 50, Lanoquat ^® DES

50 or Empigen CSC.

Another example of a suitable cationic surfactant, quaternary sugar derivative is the commercially available product Glucquat ^® 100 is, according to INCI nomenclature a "lauryl methyl Gluceth-10

Hydroxypropyl Dimonium Chloride ".

Finally, cationic surfactants of the present invention are also cationic

Compounds of the following general structure understood:

RCO-XN ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A ^" (Tkat-2)

R here stands for a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight-chain alkyl or alkenyl radical having 11 to 35 carbon atoms in the chain,

X is - O - or - NR ⁵ -,

R ¹ represents an alkylene group having 2 to 6 C atoms, which may be unsubstituted or substituted, in which case substitution with an -OH or -NH group is preferred in the case of a substitution, R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ each independently represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 6 C atoms in the chain, which chain may be straight or branched. Examples of radicals according to the invention are methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, hexyl, iso-hexyl, hydroxyalkyl, dihydroxyalkyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, dihydroxypropyl , Hydroxybutyl, dihydroxybutyl, trihydroxybutyl, trihydroxypropyl, dihydroxyethyl,

R ⁵ is hydrogen or a C1 to C6 straight-chain or branched, alkyl or alkenyl radical, which may also be substituted by a hydroxy group, especially methyl, ethyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, pentyl iso-pentyl, neo-pentyl, hexyl, iso-hexyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, dihydroxypropyl, hydroxybutyl, dihydroxybutyl, trihydroxybutyl, trihydroxypropyl, dihydroxyethyl and

A ^' represents a halide such as fluoride, chloride or bromide, an alkyl sulfate such as a methosulfate or ethosulfate, a phosphate, a citrate, tartrate, maleate or fumarate

Within this structural class, the compounds of one of the following structures are preferably used:

CH ₃ (CH _{2) 2} OCONH (CH _{2) 3} - N ⁺ (CHs) ₂ -CH ₂ CH ₃ A ^"(Tkat-3)

CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ CONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ - N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ (CHOH) CH ₂ OH A ^" (Tkat-4)

CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ COOCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ - N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₃ A ^" (Tkat-5)

CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ CONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ - N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH A ^" (Tkat-6)

Examples of such commercial products are Schercoquat BAS, Lexquat AMG-BEO, Akypoquat 131 or Incroquat Behenyl HE.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes the recognition that mixtures of at least two cationic surfactants can be used. In this case, the cationic surfactants are preferably selected from at least two different structural classes of cationic surfactants.

The cationic surfactants (Tkat) are preferably contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Of course, it is also preferable in the case of the cationic surfactants to select mild cationic surfactants. The criteria for selecting suitable mild surfactants have been previously described in detail. The corresponding mild cationic surfactants include in particular alkylamidoamines, quaternized amidoamines, esterquats, cationic surfactants of the formula (Tkat-2) and cationic surfactants having at least one behenyl radical in the molecule.

Cationic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred according to the invention. Anionic surfactants are used in particular when the compositions according to the invention are to be used as shower baths. The surfactants (T) are used in amounts of 0.05-45% by weight, preferably 0.1-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention , Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles per propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and on

Alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,

Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters,

Fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, where C ¹ degrees of gyration of from 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as sugar component are preferred,

Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,

Partial esters of polyols of 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids of 8 to 22

C-atoms,

Sterols. Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol.

Phospholipids.

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate

(Dehymuls ^® PGPH commercial product)

Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium,

Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

The compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionogenic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention. In the preferred case according to the invention that the compatibility of the cosmetic compositions should be improved, the particularly mild surfactants and emulsifiers are preferably used in the compositions. In these cases, the Alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfates in amounts below 8 wt.%, Preferably less than 5 wt.% And particularly preferably less than 2.5 wt.% Used. Most preferably, these compositions are free of alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfates. "Free from" in this context means that these ingredients are not used in any way, but it is possible that they may be introduced into the composition by other ingredients, such as the use of silicone emulsions, so "free from" preferably means smaller than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight. Very particularly cationic and / or amphoteric and / or zwitterionic polymers are used as further ingredients in the compositions according to the invention.

Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable. Further cationic polymers according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers, which usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationically.

The cationic polymers according to the invention can be both firming and / or film-forming and / or antistatic and / or scavenging polymers as well as polymers having conditioning and / or thickening properties. The suitable cationic polymers are preferably fixing and / or conditioning polymers. By polymers are meant both natural and synthetic polymers which may be cationic or amphoteric charged.

These two groups of polymers share a potentially cationic charge. Both cationic and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers can therefore be characterized by their cationic charge density. The polymers of the invention are characterized by a charge density of at least 1 to 7 meq / g. A charge density of at least 2 to 7 meq / g is preferred. Particularly preferred is a charge density of at least equal to 3meq / g to 7 meq / g.

Another characteristic feature of the polymers according to the invention is their molecular weight. The molecular weight of the particular polymer is understood to mean the molecular weight which the manufacturer indicates in the corresponding data sheets by its method. For the selection of a suitable polymer has a molecular weight of at least 50,000 g / u as proved suitable according to the invention. Polymers with a molecular weight of more than 100,000 g / u have proven to be particularly suitable. Polymers with a molecular weight of more than 1,000,000 g / u are particularly suitable.

Suitable polymers have a value of greater than 100,000 for the product of cationic charge density and molecular weight. Particularly suitable are polymers which have a value of at least 200,000 for this product. Especially suitable are those polymers in which this product has a value greater than 250,000. Most suitable are those polymers in which this product has a value of at least 1,000,000.

Preference is given to those polymers which have a sufficient solubility in water or alcohol in order to completely dissolve in the agent according to the invention. The cationic polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers, for example trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium,

Dialkyl diallyl ammonium and quaternary vinyl ammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

Suitable polymers having quaternary amine groups are, for example, the polymers described under the names Polyquaternium in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-11). Among the cationic polymers that can be included in the inventive composition, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ^® 755 N and Gafquat ^® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and of which the Gafquat ^® 734 is particularly preferred suitable. Further cationic polymers are, for example, those of the company BASF, Germany under the

Tradename Luviquat ^® HM 550 displaced copolymer of polyvinylpyrrolidone and

Imidazoliminemethochloride that by Calgon / USA under the trade name Merquat ^®

Plus 3300 distributed terpolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and

Acrylamide and sold by the company ISP under the trade name Gafquat ^® HS 100

Vinyl pyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride copolymer.

Homopolymers of the general formula (P1),

- (CH ₂ - [CR ¹ COO- (CH ₂ ) _m N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ ]} _n X ^" (P1) in which R ^{1 is} -H or -CH ₃ ,

R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or

Hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and

X ^'is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (monomer-3) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. in the

Within the scope of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

R ¹ is a methyl group

R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically acceptable counterions X ^' are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride. A particularly suitable homopolymer is the optionally crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium 37. Such products are, for example, under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen ^® CR (3V Sigma) are commercially available. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6)) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, more

Components: Mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and

Capric acid (INCI name: Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) are commercially available.

Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (Pmonomer-3) are nonionic

Monomer units preferred acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid C |. _4- alkyl esters and

Methacrylic acid-C- _4- alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A preferred copolymer according to the invention is the crosslinked one

Acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC.

Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic ones

Derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or

Guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula (P-3) GOB-N + R _a R _b R _c X

G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;

B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or

hydroxyalkylene;

R _a , R _b and R _c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or

Alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R _a , R _b and R _{c is} preferably not more than 20;

X ^' is a common counter anion and is preferably chloride.

A cationic cellulose is sold under the name Polymer JR 400 from Amerchol ^® and has the INCI designation Polyquaternium-10 degrees. Another cationic cellulose carries the

INCI name Polyquaternium-24 and is under the trade name Polymer LM-200 of

Amerchol distributed. Other commercial products are the compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L and 200. The commercial products mentioned are preferred cationic celluloses.

Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ^® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Furthermore, particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives are also available from the company Hercules under the name

N-Hance ^® on the market. Further cationic guar derivatives are available from Cognis under the

Designation Cosmedia ^® distributed. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the

Commercial product AquaCat® ^® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative. Another particularly suitable cationic natural polymer are hydrocolloids of the chitosan type. The chitosans to be used according to the invention are completely or partially deacetylated chitins. A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ^®. A preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ^® PC by Amerchol, USA. Suitable chitosan derivatives are quaternized, alkylated or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, for example hydroxyethyl or hydroxybutylchitosan. Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ^® CMF, Hydagen® ^® HCMF and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.

More preferred cationic polymers include cationic alkyl polyglycosides, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat 50 ^®, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as by the names of Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27, having quaternary Nitrogen atoms in the polymer backbone,

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those offered with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the name Aquaflex ^® SF 40.

Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are. Cationic polymers preferred according to the invention are cationic cellulose derivatives and

Chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ^® JR 400, Hydagen ^®

HCMF and Kytamer ^® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercially available product ^® Honeyquat 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside and polymers of the type

Polyquaternium-37.

Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or

Keratin, from the plant, for example, from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, such as fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates, may originate. Preferred are such cationic

Protein hydrolysates, whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 up to

25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, under cationic

Protein hydrolyzates to understand quaternized amino acids and their mixtures. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical

Examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention are those under the INCI names in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook,

(seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1 101 17 ^th Street, NW,

Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products.

Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

The cationic polymers are preferred in the compositions of the invention

Amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent included. Amounts of 0.1 to

5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Amphoteric polymers, as well as the cationic polymers, are most preferred

Polymers.

Amphoteric and / or cationic polymers preferred according to the invention are those

Polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers:

Monomers with quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (monol), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ⁽⁾ (monol) in the R ¹ and R ² independently represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A ^{() is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, Monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (Mono 2),

wherein R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and

A ^"is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid.

When a cationic group of the amphoteric or cationic polymers is derived from the monomer of the formula (monol), the radicals R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ in the formula (monol) are preferably methyl groups, Z is preferably an NH group and A ^{( )} preferably means a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion. It is particularly preferred in this case to use acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride as the monomer (monol). In formula (mono 2), A ^'is preferably a halide ion, in particular chloride or bromide. Preferred amphoteric polymers of the invention are polymers whose anionic group is derived from at least one monomer of the formula (Mono3) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (Mono3) or their salts with an organic or inorganic acid,

R ⁸ -CH = CR ⁹ -COOH (mono 3) in which R ⁸ and R ^{9 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups. As the monomer (Mono3) acrylic acid is used for the inventively preferred amphoteric polymers.

Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (monol) or (mono 2) with the monomer (mono 3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (mono 2) and (mono 3). Very particularly preferably used according to the invention amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ^® 280 (Nalco).

In addition, in addition to a monomer (monol) or (mono 2) and a monomer (mono 3), the amphoteric polymers according to the invention may additionally comprise a monomer (mono 4) monomeric carboxamides of the general formula (mono 4),

R ¹⁰ -CH = CR ¹¹ -C-NH-R ¹² (mono 4)

O in which R ¹⁰ and R ^{11 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups and

R ^{12 is} a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ - to C ₈ ) alkyl group. Very particular preference is given to using amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (mono 4) which are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and Acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ^® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).

Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

(i) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (monol), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A ⁽⁾ (monol) in R ¹ and R ² independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z denotes an NH group or an oxygen atom, n denotes an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^{() is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and

(ii) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (mono 3), R ⁸ -CH = CR ⁹ -COOH (mono 3) in which R ⁸ and R ⁹ independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (i) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{() is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion is; Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (i). As the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned, acrylic acid is preferably used.

The amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.

The amphoteric polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The anionic polymers are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid. Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfon acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ^® 11-80 is commercially. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C ₁₃ -C ₄ -lsoparaffin) and a non-ionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate 80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proven to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ^® Stabileze QM. The anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Another very particularly preferred group of polymers are polyurethanes. The polyurethanes consist of at least two different monomer types, a compound (monomer δ having at least 2 active hydrogen atoms per molecule and a di- or polyisocyanate (monomer θ).

The compounds (monomer δ) may be, for example, diols, triols, diamines, triamines, polyetherols and polyesterols. The compounds having more than 2 active hydrogen atoms are usually used only in small amounts in combination with a large excess of compounds having 2 active hydrogen atoms. Examples of compounds (Monomerδ) are ethylene glycol, 1, 2 and 1, 3-propylene glycol, butylene glycols, di-, tri-, tetra- and poly-ethylene and -Propylenglykole, copolymers of lower alkylene oxides such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and butylene oxide, Ethylene diamine, propylene diamine, 1, 4-diaminobutane, hexamethylenediamine and, diamines based on long-chain alkanes or polyalkylene oxides.

Polyurethanes in which the compounds (monomer δ) are diols, triols and polyetherols may be preferred according to the invention. In particular, polyethylene glycols and

Polypropylene glycols having molecular weights between 200 and 3000, in particular between 1600 and

2500, have proven to be particularly suitable in individual cases.

Polyesterols are usually by modifying the compound (Monomerδ) with

Dicarboxylic acids such as phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and adipic acid.

The compounds (monomer)) are predominantly hexamethylene diisocyanate, 2,4- and 2,6-

Toluene diisocyanate, 4,4'-methylene di (phenyl isocyanate) and in particular isophorone diisocyanate used.

An inventively very particularly preferred polyurethane is under the

Trade name Luviset.RTM ^® PUR (BASF).

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention can be nonionic

Contain polymers.

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers. Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy-, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules). Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch; shellac

Polyvinylpyrrolidones, as sold for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

The nonionic polymers are preferred in the compositions of the invention

Amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent included. Amounts of 0.1 to

5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The polymers (P) are preferably used in the compositions according to the invention

Amounts from 0.01 to 30 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

Amounts of from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

The following ingredients additionally contribute to the achievement and further enhancement of the effects of the invention. With particular preference the compositions according to the invention contain fatty substances (fat) as further active ingredient. With this composition, increased amounts of the active ingredients are deposited on the hair or skin, resulting in synergistically enhanced effects. Fatty substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components. As fatty acids (Fatac) can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.

The amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. The amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.

Fatty alcohols (Fatal) may be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ - C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ - C ₂₂ - and particularly preferably C ₂ - C ₂₂ - carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^{®, ®} Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight. As natural or synthetic waxes (fatwax) it is possible according to the invention to use solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites,

Ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or

Citrus wax, Microwachse from PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The amount used is 0.1-50% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20

% By weight and more preferably 0.1-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

The total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.

Another inventive synergistic active ingredient in the inventive

Compositions with the active substance complex according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or its derivatives (P).

According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to

50,000 and most preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

Examples of amino acids and their derivatives as protein hydrolysates according to the invention are: alanine, arginine, carnitine, creatine, cystathionine, cysteine, cystine, cystic acid,

Glycine, histidine, homocysteine, homoserine, isoleucine, lanthionine, leucine, lysine, methionine,

Norleucine, norvaline, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, sarcosine, serine, threonine,

Tryptophan, thyronine, tyrosine, valine, aspartic acid, asparagine, glutamic acid and glutamine.

Preferred amino acids are alanine, arginine, glycine, histidine, lanthionine, leucine, lysine, proline,

Hydroxyproline serine and asparagine. Very particular preference is given to using alanine, glycine,

Histidine, lysine, serine and arginine. Most preferably, glycine, histidine, lysine and serine are used.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois ^® (Interorgana)

Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co)

Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

To the plants, which contain interesting active ingredients, belongs also the family of the Moringagewächse. One of them is Moringa oleifera (Moringa pterygosperma). Such a thing Protein, for example, under the trade designation Puricare ^® LS 9658 from Fa.

Laboratoires serobiologiques available commercially.

In the cosmetic compositions, the above-described protein extract is from the

Seeds of Moringa growth in an amount of at least 0.01 up to 20 wt.% Contain.

Preferably, amounts of the extract from 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Most preferably

Quantities of 0.01 to 5 wt.% Based on the total cosmetic composition used.

Furthermore, according to the invention preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates such as

Soy, almonds, peas, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex),

Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda), and

Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Further preferred protein hydrolysates according to the invention are collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates.

Examples of pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract

BG ^® or Crodarom ^® Pearl.

In the cosmetic compositions, one of the above-described pearl extracts is contained in an amount of at least 0.01 to 20% by weight. Preference is given to quantities of

Extract of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Most preferably used amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt.% Based on the total cosmetic composition.

Another very special protein hydrolyzate is extracted from the silk.

In the compositions used in the invention are the Seidenproteinhydroysate and / or their

Derivatives in amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt .-% based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.005 to 5, in particular 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, are very particularly preferred.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their

Fatty acid condensation products.

According to the invention it is also possible to use a mixture of several protein hydrolysates (P).

The protein hydrolysates (P) are in the compositions in concentrations of 0.001

% By weight up to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.05% by weight up to 5% by weight.

The effect of the compositions according to the invention can furthermore be achieved by a

Pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J) can be increased. Preferred are the

Sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts, in which the ammonium ion in addition to hydrogen carries one to three C 1 to C ₄ alkyl groups. The sodium salt is whole particularly preferred. The amounts used in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%.

Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient according to the invention complex are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain antimicrobial compounds. Suitable antimicrobial compounds are, for. B. cationic surfactants such. B. benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride or fluoride as an amine known N, N, N ^'- tris- (2-hydroxyethyl) ^-N' -octadecyl-1, 3-diaminopropane dihydrofluoride. Good are also the antimicrobial biguanide compounds such. B. the polyhexamethylene biguanide (Vantocil® IB, ICI) or the 1, 1 ^' hexamethylene bis (4-chlorophenyl) biguanide ("chlorhexidine") in the form of a water-soluble, compatible salt, e.g. In the form of the acetate or gluconate. Preferably, the antimicrobial 5-amino-hexahydropyrimidines, z. For example, the 1, 3-bis (2-ethylhexyl) -5-methyl-5-amino-hexahydropyrimidine ("hexetidine"). Further preferably suitable antimicrobial agents are the non-cationic, phenolic, antimicrobial substances, in particular the halogenated phenols and diphenyl ethers. Particularly suitable antimicrobial compounds of this type are z. B. the

6,6 ^'- methylene-bis- (2-bromo-4-chlorophenol) ( "bromochlorophene") and ^{2,4,4'-trichloro-2'} hydroxy-diphenyl ether ( "triclosan").

Further suitable antimicrobial substances are the p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters and sesquiterpene alcohols such. As the bisabolol, farnesol, Santalol or Nerolidol. Finally, the use of plant extracts (L) in the compositions according to the invention gives rise to further synergistic advantages. Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves or the roots of the plant.

With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, particular reference is made to the extracts listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the ingredient declaration of cosmetic products, published by the Industrial Association for Personal Care and Detergent e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt.

The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, Valerian, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa and ginger root are preferred. Particularly preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, Rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, valerian, coffee, cocoa, moringa, toadstool, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Especially suitable for the composition according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.

Finally, in the compositions according to the invention it is furthermore advantageously possible to use an extract of a sweetgrass. Examples of particularly important representatives are wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelled, maize, the various types of millet (European millet, finger millet, millet), sugar cane, ryegrass, meadow foxtail, oat oat, ostrich grass, meadow fescue, whistle grass, bamboo, cotton grass, too Called cogon grass. Such raw materials are available, for example from the company Cognis under the trade name Primasponge ^® commercially. An inventive representative of these raw materials is for example Primaspong SS Ivory, which contains a bamboo extract according to the invention. Preferred compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges. Here are inventively preferred cosmetic agents characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s).

Among purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, some representatives are particularly preferred according to the invention. Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (I)

in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, - OH, -NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ - CH ₃ , where the following compounds are preferred:

Purine (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Adenine (R ¹ = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Guanine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H) Uric acid (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Hypoxanthine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-purethiol (R ¹ = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-thioguanine (R ¹ = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Xanthine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Caffeine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )

- Theobromine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Theophylline (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H)

Depending on the desired application of the cosmetic agent may vary the nature and amount of purine derivative. Caffeine has proved particularly useful in hair cosmetic formulations, for example in shampoos, conditioners, hair lotions and / or lotions, preferably in amounts of from 0.005 to 0.25% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0.05 wt .-% (in each case based on the composition) can be used.

As a further essential component, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one imidazole derivative. According to the invention, the imidazole derivative is an imidazole according to one of the formulas Ect-I or Ect-II and / or a physiologically tolerable salt and / or an isomeric or stereomeric form of these compounds,

Ect-I Ect-II. , in which

R ¹ represents a hydrogen atom, a branched or unbranched C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl radical or a C ₂ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl radical,

R ² represents a hydrogen atom, a grouping -COOR ⁵ or a grouping - CO (NH) R ⁵ , where R ^{5 may be} a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl radical, an amino acid radical, a dipeptide or a tripeptide radical, R ³ and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl radical or one of the two radicals represents a hydroxy group and n represents an integer from 1 to 3.

Suitable physiologically acceptable salts of the general compounds of the formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II) are, for example, the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, triethylamine or tris (2-hydroxyethyl) amine salts and those which are composed of the reaction of compounds of the formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II) with inorganic and organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, Phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted (for example by one or more hydroxy groups) C ₁ - C ₄ - mono- or dicarboxylic acids, aromatic carboxylic acids and sulfonic acids such as acetic acid, citric acid, benzoic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid and p-toluenesulfonic acid result. Examples of particularly preferred physiologically acceptable salts are the Na, K, Mg and Ca salts and ammonium salts of the compounds of the formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II), and the salts which can be obtained by reacting compounds according to of the formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II) with hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, citric acid and benzoic acid.

Examples of C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl groups in the compounds according to the invention are methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl. Preferred alkyl groups are methyl and ethyl, methyl is a particularly preferred alkyl group. Preferred C ₂ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl groups are the groups 2-hydroxyethyl, 3-hydroxypropyl or 4-hydroxybutyl; 2-hydroxyethyl is a particularly preferred hydroxyalkyl group.

Preferred compounds of the formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II) are those in which the radical R ^{1 is} a methyl group.

Furthermore, those compounds according to the general formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II) are favored in which the radical R ^{2 is} the grouping -COOH.

Preference is also given to compounds of the general formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II) in which the radicals R ³ and R ⁴ are each hydrogen or independently of one another hydrogen or a hydroxy group.

Furthermore, particular preference is given to those compounds of the general formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II) in which n is the number 2.

A very particularly preferred compound according to the general formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II) is (S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (ectoine) and the physiologically tolerated salts this connection.

A further very particularly preferred compound according to the general formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II) is (S, S) -5-hydroxy-2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid ( Hydroxyectoin) and the physiologically acceptable salts of this compound.

In general, the compounds according to the general formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II), in particular ectoine, in the hair cleansing and hair treatment compositions in a concentration of 0.00001 - 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.00005 - 5 wt .-%, in each case based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, be included.

Regardless of whether extracts are used as described above, agents according to the invention are preferred which contain the said extract (s) in amounts of 0.00001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.00005 to 5% by weight, especially preferably from 0.0001 to 3.0% by weight and in particular from 0.001 to 1.0% by weight, in each case based on the total agent. Another preferred active ingredient for additional use in the compositions according to the invention is taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid) and / or a derivative of taurine. Preferred taurine derivatives are N-monomethyltaurine and N, N-dimethyltaurine. Further taurine derivatives for the purposes of the present invention are taurocholic acid and hypotaurine.

Particularly preferred are agents according to the invention, which - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt .-% and In particular, 0.001 to 1, 0 wt .-% taurine and / or a derivative of taurine included. In addition, it may prove advantageous if the compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M). These excipients provide better penetration of active ingredients into the keratin fiber or help swell the keratin fiber. These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol, for example

Propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1 , 3-propanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol. A particularly preferred group of swelling agents may be hydantoins. Therefore, compositions of the invention preferably contain 0.01 to 5 wt .-% hydantoin or at least one Hydatoinderivates. Hydantoin derivatives are particularly preferably used according to the invention, with 5-ureidohydantoin being particularly preferred. Regardless of whether hydantoin or hydantoin derivative (s) is / are used, amounts of from 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred, from 0.05 to 1, 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% - each based on the total agent - most preferably. In summary, cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferred which contain 0.02 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, more preferably 0.075 to 1% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 0, 25% by weight of hydantoin and / or hydantoin derivative (s), preferably 5-ureidohydantoin (allantoin)

contain.

Another group of very particular ingredients of the compositions of the invention are biochinones. In the agents according to the invention, suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s). The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the ubiquinone of the formula where n = 10, also known as

Coenzyme Q10.

Plastoquinones have the general structural formula

on. They can be isolated from chloroplasts and play as redox substrates in the

Photosynthesis in cyclic and noncyclic electron transport play a role, reversibly converting into the corresponding hydroquinones (plastoquinol). Plastoschinone differ in the number n of the isoprene radicals and are designated accordingly, z. B.

PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the

Quinone ring.

The or the biochinone (s) is (are) in the inventive compositions - based on her

Weight - in an amount of 0.0000005 to 2%, preferably in an amount of 0.000001 to 1% and in particular in an amount of 0.00001 to 0.5%.

Another particularly preferred group of ingredients in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are betaines.

Under a betaine for the purposes of the present invention, the compounds are to be understood, which at the same time both a group -NR ₃ ^<+) as well as a group -CR ₂ contain COO ^'' ', of similar structure sulfobetaines and compounds containing a moiety -NR ₃ ⁺ and a

Grouping -CH ₂ OH have. In particular, the betaines according to the invention are to be understood as meaning those which correspond to the formula (Bet-I).

R ¹ R ² R ³ N ⁺ - (CR ⁴ R ⁵ ) _X - (CR ⁶ R ⁷ ) _y - (CR ⁸ R ⁹ ) _Z - Y ^" (Bet-I)

R ¹ , R ² , and R ³ here independently of one another represent:

• hydrogen,

• a methyl radical,

• a C2 - C8 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ , R ⁷ , R ⁸ and R ⁹ are here independently of one another:

• hydrogen,

• OR ¹⁰ ,

• -OCOR ¹¹ ,

A methyl radical which can carry a 1H-imidazolyl-4-substituent,

• a C ₂ -C 8 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical, where R ¹⁰ is hydrogen, -CH ₃ or a C ₂ -C 30 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical and R ¹¹ is -CH ₃ or a C2 - C30 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical, x, y and z are each independently an integer from 0 to 12 with the proviso that at least one of the parameters x, y or z is different from 0 and Y ^" stands for COO ^" , SO ₃ ^" or a hydroxy group in combination with a physiologically tolerated anion." Betaines in the context of the invention are also to be understood as meaning those substances in which the mentioned characteristic groups are only present in the dissolved substance and within certain pH values. There are areas of the solution.

Of course, all physiologically acceptable salts of the betaines according to the invention, in particular also the mixed salts of the betaines, can be used according to the invention. Examples of betains of the formula (AI) which are particularly suitable according to the invention are: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetyl carnitine, 3-O-lauroyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, SO-octanoyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, 3-0 Palmitoyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, taurine, tauryl lysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithine, lysyl taurine and ornithyl taurine, betalain, 1, 1-dimethyl-proline, hercynin (Nα, Nα, Nα -trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine), ergothionein ( Thionein, 2-mercapto-Na, Na, Na-trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine), choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate, and the compound N, N, N-trimethylglycine referred to in the literature as betaine. These mixed salts may be preferred according to the invention. Carnitine, taurine, histidine, choline, betaine and their derivatives are preferably used. The compositions according to the invention may contain both a compound according to formula (Bet-I) and several, in particular two, compounds of the formula (Bet-I). The agents according to the invention contain the betaines in amounts of from 0.001 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent. A content of 0.05 to 10 wt .-% is preferred. Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may contain pharmacologically active substances to achieve certain effects, such as, for example, an anti-dandruff effect or effects against acne.

Examples of pharmacologically active substances are corticosteroids, β-blockers, estrogens, phytoestrogens, cyproterone acetate, vasodilating substances such as diazoxide, nifedipine and minoxidil, acetylsalicylic acid or salicylic acid. These substances are in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based in each case on the entire

Composition included.

Another group of very particularly preferred ingredients of the invention

Compositions are perfumes.

The term perfume means perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances. As perfume oils are called mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances.

The perfumes are generally in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to

2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the

Total composition added.

The perfumes can be diluted in liquid form, undiluted or with a solvent for

Perfumes can be added to the compositions. Suitable solvents for this purpose are, for. For example, ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, propylene glycol, 1, 2

Butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethyl phthalate, triethyl citrate, isopropyl myristate, etc.

Advantageous in the context of the invention, short-chain carboxylic acids (N) can be used as an ingredient in the present invention. Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750. For the purposes of the invention, preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a

Chain length of 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain, most particularly those are those with a chain length of 1 to 12 C - atoms in the chain.

One use of the short-chain carboxylic acids is the adjustment of the pH of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention. The inventive

Composition in combination with a short chain carboxylic acid results in an improved

Skin smoothness and a smoothed hair structure.

In addition to the above-mentioned short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention themselves, their physiologically tolerable salts can also be used according to the invention. Examples of such salts are the alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, zinc salts and ammonium salts, of which the mono-, di- and trimethyl-, -ethyl- and -hydroxyethyl-

Ammonium salts are to be understood. In addition, however, can also be reacted with alkaline

Amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, neutralized acids can be used. The sodium, potassium, ammonium and arginine salts are preferred salts.

Furthermore, for reasons of formulation it may be preferable to select the carboxylic acid as active ingredient from the water-soluble representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts. These active compounds according to the invention are in the compositions in concentrations of

0.01% by weight up to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1% by weight up to 5% by weight.

A very diverse and interesting cosmetic drug group are

Polyhydroxy compounds. The inventive use of polyhydroxy compounds as

Active ingredient with the other components according to the invention may therefore be particularly preferred. Under polyhydroxy compounds organic compounds having at least two

To understand hydroxy groups.

In particular, for the purposes of the present invention, this is to be understood as meaning:

Polyols having at least two hydroxyl groups, such as, for example, trimethylolpropane, ethoxylates and / or propoxylates with from 1 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide of the abovementioned polyols,

Carbohydrates, sugar alcohols and sugars and their salts, in particular monosaccharides, disaccharides, trisaccharides and oligosaccharides, these also being protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary and -OH and -NH protecting groups known in the literature, such as, for example, the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters,

Aminodeoxysugars, deoxysugars, thiosugars, these also being protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, and protected by customary and known in the literature -OH and -NH protecting groups, such as, for example, the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and furthermore Form of the methyl ethers and may be present as phosphate esters,

Very particular preference is given here to monosaccharides having 3 to 8 C atoms, such as, for example, trioses, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses and octoses, these also being protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and by conventional and known in the literature -OH and -NH - protecting groups, such as the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters.

Irrespective of the type of polyhydroxy compound having at least 2 OH groups used, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the composition, contain 0.01 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.05 to 4 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.05 to 3.5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 2.5% by weight of polyhydroxy compound (s).

The polyhydroxy compounds according to the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations of 0.01% by weight up to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1% by weight. up to 10% by weight. Other optional ingredients that can be used in cosmetic compositions are preservatives. Preservatives used are the substance classes listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the European Cosmetics Regulation. Particularly preferred is mild preservation, ideally without the addition of typical preservatives. In general, the following substances and their mixtures are used: aromatic alcohols, such as, for example, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol,

phenoxyisopropanol,

Aldehydes such as formaldehyde solution and paraformaldehyde, glutaraldehyde

Parabens, for example methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben,

Isobutylparaben

1, 2-alkanediols having 5 to 22 carbon atoms in the carbon chain, such as 1, 2

Pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-heptanediol, 1, 2-decanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 2

hexadecanediol,

Formaldehyde-releasing compounds such as DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl

urea

Halogenated compounds such as isothiazolinones, such as

Methylchloroisothiazolinone / methylisothiazolinone, triclosan, triclocarban, iodopropynylbutylcarbamate, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, chlorhexidine digluconate and

Chlorhexidine acetate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, methyldibromo-glutaronitrile,

Inorganic compounds such as sulfites, boric acid and borates, bisulfites,

Cationic substances such as quaternium-15, benzalkonium chloride,

Benzethonium chloride, polyaminopropyl biguanide,

Organic acids and their physiologically acceptable salts such as

Citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, salicylic acid,

dehydroacetic

Active ingredients with additional effects such as zinc pyrithione,

piroctone olamine,

Antioxidants such as BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), BHA (butylated

Hydroxyanisole), propyl gallate, t-butyl hydroquinone,

Complexing agents such as EDTA and its derivatives, HEDTA and its derivatives,

Etidronic Acid and its salts,

As well as mixtures of the substances listed above.

In a further particularly preferred type of the compositions according to the invention, the water activity in the compositions according to the invention can also be reduced so far be that growth of microorganisms can no longer take place. In particular, glycerol and sorbitol are used for this purpose.

The compositions according to the invention contribute to the preservation being possible in an outstanding manner with the mild preservative additives. But the complete abandonment of preservatives is possible and preferred according to the invention. The amounts of preservative are from 0 to 5 wt.%, Preferably from 0 to 2 wt.%, Particularly preferably from 0 to 1 wt.% And most preferably from 0 to 0.8 wt.% Based on the total amount of the composition ,

Further optional ingredients of the compositions of the invention are Deowirkstoffe. Deodorants can not only be used in deodorants to prevent underarm sweating. They can also be used in skin care products to influence sweat on other skin areas. This includes, for example, the scalp. The inventive compositions significantly increase analytically detectable the deposition of deodorant substances on the skin and hair. In the panel test, this is also noticeable through a significantly prolonged effect. As Deowirkstoffe esterase inhibitors can be added. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, COGNIS). The substances inhibit the enzyme activity and thereby reduce odors. The cleavage of the citric acid ester is likely to release the free acid, which lowers the pH on the skin to the extent that it inhibits the enzymes. Further substances which are suitable as esterase inhibitors are dicarboxylic acids and their esters, for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters, for example citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyl tartrate. Antibacterial agents that affect the bacterial flora and kill sweat-degrading bacteria or inhibit their growth may also be included in the stick formulations. Examples of these are chitosan, phenoxyethanol and chlorhexidine gluconate. 5-Chloro-2- (2,4-dichlorophenoxy) phenol, which is marketed under the trade name Irgasan® by Ciba-Geigy, Basel / CH, has also proved to be particularly effective. It may be preferred according to the invention to use the agent according to the invention in the context of a color change of the hair. In particular, the oxidative color change is preferred because the care effect of the compositions of the invention is excellent even in the presence of an oxidizing agent. Preferred agents according to the invention therefore contain at least one oxidizing agent.

The oxidizing agents according to the invention are different from atmospheric oxygen and have such an oxidation potential that makes it possible to disulfide bridges within or between the To bind proteins of the hair keratin, to oxidatively lighten the natural color pigment melanin and / or to oxidize a developer-type oxidation dye precursor. The oxidizing agent is preferably hydrogen peroxide and / or at least one addition product thereof, in particular inorganic or organic compounds such as sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate, Natriumpercarbamid, Polyvinylpyrrolidon.n H ₂ O ₂ (n is a positive integer greater than 0), urea peroxide and Melamine peroxide in question.

The oxidizing agent is preferably contained in an amount of from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.0 to 10.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, in the oxidative cosmetic agent.

For the purpose of color change, the cosmetic agents additionally preferably contain at least one color-modifying component. It is u.a. Improves the authenticity of the color obtained against environmental influences. The color-changing component is again preferably selected

(A) from at least one oxidation dye precursor of the type of developer components and optionally additionally at least one coupler component and / or

(b) from oxo dye precursors and / or

(c) from at least one direct dye and / or

(D) from at least one precursor of natural dyes and / or

(e) at least one bleach booster.

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention should additionally contain at least one UV light protection filter. By UV light protection filters are meant organic substances capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and absorbing the absorbed energy in the form of longer wavelength radiation, e.g. Heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances are e.g. to call:

3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and A-

(Dimethylamino) benzoesäureamylester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, A-

Propyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene); Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy

4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;

Triazine derivatives, e.g. 2,4,6-Trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and

Octyl.

Propane-1,3-diones, e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione; Suitable water-soluble substances are:

2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium,

Alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone

5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) -sulfonic acid and its salts.

As a typical UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane come into question, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione or 1-phenyl-3 (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione. Of course, the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble pigments are also suitable for this purpose, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, it is also possible to use secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates into the skin. Typical examples are superoxide dismutase, tocopherols (vitamin E) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).

Furthermore, the cosmetic agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example, cholesterol,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers, pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate, pigments

Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,

Antioxidants.

With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art.

As already mentioned, the high care effect of the agents according to the invention is of particular importance, in particular, since it gives excellent results even in the presence of oxidizing agents, for example in the context of oxidative hair dyeing. A second subject of the invention is therefore a method for hair treatment, in which a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and rinsed after a contact time of the hair.

The exposure time is preferably a few seconds to 100 minutes, more preferably 1 to 50 minutes and most preferably 1 to 30 minutes.

Again, it is preferred according to the invention to use the method according to the invention in the context of an oxidative hair coloring, the oxidative hair bleaching or the fixation in the context of a permanent wave.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without, however, limiting it.

B e i s p e e l e

All quantities are, unless otherwise stated, parts by weight.

The following formulations were provided using known preparation methods.

shampoo

flush

1. Spray cure, leave-on:

Dehyquart F 75 ¹ 1, 50

Amodimethicone 0.48

Glycerol 0.135

Trideceth-10 0.19

Trideceth-5 0.11

Quartamine BTC-131 1, 00

Cremophor ^® CO-40 ¹ 0.80

Sunflower oil 0.10

Dow Corning 200, 0.65 cSt 0.5

Niacinamide 0.10

Methylparaben 0.20

Perfume 0.30

Phenoxyethanol 0.40

Water ad 100

¹ mixture of esterquat and fatty alcohol (INCI name distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (and) cetearyl alcohol) (COGNIS)

Claims

claims:

A hair conditioning composition comprising a) at least one quaternary compound according to formula I

OR ₃

Il

R - C - X - R ₁ - N ⁺ - R ₂ A ^" Formula I

I

R ₄ in which the radical R is a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl or

Alkenyl group having 12 to 36 carbon atoms,

X is oxygen or an NR ₅ group,

R _{1 represents} a substituted or unsubstituted alkylene group of 2 to 6

Carbon atoms,

R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ each independently represent an alkyl or

Hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

R ₅ is hydrogen, methyl or ethyl and

A ^" represents a physiologically acceptable anion, such as halide, for example

Fluoride, chloride, bromide, or anions such as phosphate,

Hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, sulfate or methosulfate, and b) at least one silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of dimethicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones and / or the group of amino-functional silicones and / or the group of cosmetic oils and / or mixtures thereof, wherein the weight ratio of imidazoline derivatives (a) to the respective silicone polymer or the cosmetic oil or mixtures thereof (b) is 20: 1 to 1: 20 based on the respective active substance contents, and c) a cosmetic carrier.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains at least one silicone selected from the group of dimethicones and / or the group of Cylomethicone and / or the group of amodimethicones and / or the group of dimethiconols and at least one further cosmetic oil.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it contains at least one silicone selected from the group of Dimethiconole and at least one silicone selected from the group of Cyclomehicone and at least one cosmetic oil.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it further contains at least one further cationic compound.

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the further cationic compound is a cationic polymer.

6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one substance from the group of vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives, with vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, the groups A, B, C, E, F and H are assigned.

7. Use of a preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 6 for the purification of skin and hair.

8. Use of a preparation according to one of claims 1 to 6 for the restructuring of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair.

9. A method for the treatment of skin or hair, wherein a preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 6 is applied to the skin and / or the hair, wherein the preparation is rinsed again after a contact time of 0 to 45 minutes.

10. A method for the treatment of skin or hair, wherein a preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 6 applied to the skin and / or hair and left there until the next wash.