DESCRIPTION PERMANENT COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR ONE-STEP PERMANENT OPERATION
Technical Field The present invention related to a permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent operation, more particularly a permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent operation being able to inhibit a damage of hair as well as improve a capacity for forming a curl and maintaining it by adjusting pH, an alkali degree and concentration of thioglycerol.
Background Art The prior permanent cosmetic composition is consisted of two-step, and its principle ingredient is consisted of first solvent, reducing solution consisted with an alkalization agent such as ammonium thioglycolate and aqueous ammonia, and second solvent, oxidant solution consisted with a peroxide or sodium bromate. However, this permanent cosmetic composition of two- step has several problems as followings. First, according to repeated using a reducing agent having strong alkali degree and strong oxidant agent, a hair is decolored and roughly ruined, and skin also
received severe stimuli when contacting. Next, its favor is disgusting and remaining for long time after washing a hair. Last, it is inconvenient because it should be operated two times to treat a counteragent and at operating, a solution is fallen to stimulate a skin and clothes. The reactive structure of the above-mentioned prior permanent cosmetic composition of two-step is simply described as followings. First, the permanent cosmetic composition of two-step cut a sulfide bond (R-S-S-R) of Cystine being comprised in Keratine which is generally an ingredient of hair by hydrogen addition reduction reaction (R-S-H, H-SR) , and then the hair is deformed to curled shape at this state and curled hair is fixed by rebinding by oxidant agent as followings;
R-S-H + H-S-R R-S-S-R + H20 02
Since the prior permanent cosmetic composition is consisted of first solvent comprising an exceed alkali (carbonate alkali, hydroxide alkali, aqueous ammonia) showing above 3.5 of alkali degree (e.g., the number expressing with mL of requiring 0.1N-HC1 to neutralize lmL of relevant alkali) , in case of coating a hair with first
solvent a cyanide (for example, potassium cyanide) is immediately produced. Cyanide function as cutting a sulfide bond (-S-S-) of cystine. With more detail description, the reaction between cystine (R-S-S-R, R represent keratine) and potassium cyanide (KCN) is occurred with two steps as followings .
R-S-S-R + KCN R-S-CN + K-S-R (i) R-S-CN + K-S-R «* R-S-R • K-S-CN (ii)
As the above, lanthionine, R-S-R and potassium thiocyanide are produced by this reaction (C. R. Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair, Page 56, Fragrance Jounal, 1982). And then, as representing the below chemical equation, when being used second solvent, thiocyan (-SCN) is oxidized alkali bromate that is an oxidant agent as principle ingredient of second solvent. And even though when being not used second solvent, cyanide is produced as the result of oxidative reaction by cyanide (iron cyanide) that is side product contained among a waste liquid of permanent wave solvent.
-SCN + 02 → -CN + S02 (iii)
As being well known, cyanide react with iron contained a hair to produce hexacyano first iron compound (blue cyanide) or hexacyano second iron compound (red
cyanide) . In recent, a permanent cosmetic composition for one- step permanent operation is being used in a few region, but it also has a problem that a formation of curl is very slow and a formed curl is discurled easily by hair washing. To resolve the above problem, Korean Patent Registration No. 134755 disclose a permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent operation comprising 1.0 ~ 4.5 % by weight of thioglycerol, 0.2 ~ 3.5 % by weight of aqueous ammonia (28%), 0.01 ~ 1.0 % by weight of chelating agent, 0.05 ~ 2.0 % by weight of sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, 0.3 ~ 2.0 % by weight of sodium carbonate or potassium carbonate, 0.1 ~ 7.0 % by weight of potassium thiocyanate or sodium thiocyanate, 0.01 ~ 005 % by weight of ammoniumsulfate, 0.1 ~ 2.0 % by weight of citric acid or tartaric acid, 0.5 ~ 6.0 % by weight of ethanol or isopropanol, 0.03 ~ 1.0 % by weight of ethanolamine (mono-, di-, tri-) , and distilled water of remainder. On the other hand, Korean Patent Application No. 2002-3088 and 2002-3089 disclose a permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent operation comprising 1.0 ~ 5.5 % by weight of a reducing agent, 0.1 ~ 9.5 % by weight of an alkalization agent, 0.1 ~ 7.0 % by weight of a reactive catalyst, 1.0 ~ 15.0 % by weight of an alcohol,
and remainder of a distilled water or a ion-exchanging water, and having 1.0 ~ 4.6 of an alkali degree (an amount of consumed 0.01 N hydrochloric acid for 1ml of tested material) and 9.6 of pH. However, the above wave composition also can't provide a curling completion of satisfactable level, whereby being problem that a maintaining capacity of formed curl is weak and it is remained to flavor after hair washing. Further, the above composition has a drawback that it damages a hair severely. On the other hand, an anion means an object charged with negative (-) among an invisible corpuscle charged with electricity. An anion infused in body through respiration purify a blood and accelerate a circulation of blood by alkalization of blood through neutralization of hydrogen ion charged with positive (+) being solved in blood as well as rise absorbing rate of nutrients such as glucose, vitamin (particularly, antioxidating vitamin) or mineral through the cell membrane, and secrete waste matter and toxin in body with action of an activated ATP. Namely, an increase of anion activate metabolism, whereby an increase of calcium among blood rise an excitability of a muscle, particularly, the heart muscle to do the heart more healthy. As result of several test, the inventors of the present invention confirmed that a curling completion and a
maintaining capacity of formed curl can be increased and the time required for a permanent work of hair can be shorten through controlling a pH, an alkali degree, and concentration of thioglycerol. It is also confirmed that damages of hair is inhibited by adding a material generating anion, and a formation of curl and a maintaining capacity of formed curl can be increased prominently byadding it, and brightness of hair is consistently kept even though a pH, an alkali degree, and concentration of thioglycerol are changed, whereby completing the present invention.
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION Technical Problem The present invention is to solve the problem of prior art, and provide a permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent operation being able to inhibit a damage of hair as well -as improve a capacity for forming a curl and maintaining it. Technical solution The above objection of the present invention is achieved by preparing a permanent cosmetic wave and straight composition for .one-step permanent operation with controlling a pH, an alkali degree, and concentration of thioglycerol and adding a material generating anion, and
confirming the fact , that the above permanent cosmetic wave and straight composition for one-step permanent operation according to the -present invention inhibit damages of hair as well as increase a formation of curl and a maintaining capacity of formed curl, increase a degree of curling completion prominently by enhancing an adhesive power for a hair, and brightness of hair is consistently kept even though a pH, an alkali degree, and concentration of thioglycerol are changed. In the below, the present invention will be described in details. The present invention is constituted with a preparing step of a permanent cosmetic wave and straight composition for one-step permanent operation according to the present invention by controlling a pH, an alkali degree, and concentration of thioglycerol and adding a material generating anion; a preparing step of a permanent cosmetic wave and straight composition for one-step permanent operation according to the prior art; a preparing step of a permanent cosmetic wave and straight composition for one- step permanent operation using a feldspar having a different anion generating number; and comparing step for an effectiveness of wave formation, maintaining capacity of formed wave, test of straight formation, test of hair damage, favor after operation, test of stimuli for head skin, and decolouring test of the above permanent cosmetic
wave and straight composition for one-step permanent operation respectively. The present invention relate to a permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent operation characterized in that it comprises 6.0 ~ 12.0 % by weight of a reducing agent, 1 ~ 12 % by weight of an alkalization agent, 0.1 ~ 5 % by weight of a reactive catalyst, 5 ~ 20 % by weight of an alcohol, 0.1 ~ 5 % by weight of a feldspar, 1 ~ 5 % by weight of an additive agent for adhesion, and remainder of a distilled water or a purified water, and it has 2.5 ~ 3.5 of an alkali degree and 8.5 ~ 9.5 of pH. Describing such present invention in details, it is same as followings . The present invention is characterized in that the present invention provide the permanent cosmetic wave and straight composition for one-step permanent operation which inhibit damages of hair as well as more increase a formation of curl and a maintaining capacity of formed curl than in case of no addition of a feldspar, by controlling a pH, an alkali degree, and concentration of thioglycerol and adding a material generating anion. The prior permanent cosmetic wave composition for one-step permanent operation that is described in Korean Patent Registration No. 134755 comprise 1.0 ~ 4.5 % by weight of thioglycerol, reducing agent, and its alkali
degree is adjusted to 3.5 ~ 4.6 and its pH is adjusted to 9.4 ~ 9.6. However, this permanent cosmetic wave composition for one-step permanent operation is not useful commercially because of its low ability of a formation of curl and a maintaining capacity of formed curl. Compared with the prior permanent cosmetic wave composition for one-step permanent operation, the permanent cosmetic wave composition for one-step permanent operation according to the present invention comprise much more amount of 6.0 ~ 12.0 % by weight of thioglycerol, reducing agent, and its alkali degree and pH is adjusted to each 2.5 ~ 3.5 and 8.5 ~ 9.5, whereby its ability of a formation of curl and a maintaining capacity of formed curl being increased. Furthermore, with adding a feldspar generating anion, damages of hair is inhibited and a formation of curl and a maintaining capacity of formed curl is more increased than in case of no addition of a feldspar. The reducing agent according to the present invention may be at least one selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid, thioaceitc acid, and thioglycerol. And an amount being used is 6.0 ~ 12.0 % by weight. Wherein, if the amount being used is lower than 6.0 % by weight, it is not preferable since its ability of a formation of curl and a maintaining capacity of formed curl is reduced due to weak reduction. If the amount being used is higher than
12.0 % by weight, it is not preferable since damage of hair is serous. Preferably, the alkalization agent according to the present invention may be at least one selected from the group consisting of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, and potassium carbonate. And an amount being used is 1 ~ 12 % by weight to adjust an alkali degree to 2.5 ~ 3.5. Preferably, the reactive catalyst according to the present invention may be at least one selected from the group consisting of -SCN, potassium ferricyanide K3[Fe(CN)6], and K [Fe(CN)δ]. And an amount being used is 0.1 ~ 5 % by weight. Wherein, as said M-SCN, all type of organic or inorganic compound having -SCN group may be used, and M is at least one selected from the group consisting of
K, Na, Fe and NH4. A preferable example of M-SCN may include potassium thiocyanide (KSCN) , sodium thiocyanide (NaSCN) , and ammonium thiocyanide (NH4SCN) . Wherein, if the amount being used of the reactive catalyst is lower than 0.1 % by weight, it is not preferable since a reaction of formation of curl is slow. If the amount being used is higher than 5 % by weight, it is not economical since there is no differentiation in reacting velocity. The alcohol according to the present invention may be
at least one selected . from the group consisting of ethyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and poly alcohol. And an amount being used is 5 ~ 20 % by weight. The additive agent for adhesion according to the present invention may be at least one selected from the group consisting of carboxylmethylcelluloids (CMC) , hydroxypropylmethylcelluloids (HPMC) , hydroxyethylcelluloids (HEC) , polyacrylate (PA) and hu ed silica (white carbon) . And an amount being used is 1 ~ 5 % by weight. According to the present invention, feldspar is added as a material generating anion. Particularly, said feldspar is K20A1203 6Si02. To obtain a desired ability of a formation of curl and a maintaining capacity of formed curl and inhibit damage of hair, the material that generate 5000~8000 anion /1cm3 should be used. Wherein, if the anion is generated with lower level than the above range, it is not preferable since its ability of a formation of curl and a maintaining capacity of formed curl is reduced and an effect inhibiting damage of hair is reduced. If the anion is generated with higher level than the above range, it is not economical since there is no differentiation in an effect. Also, its particle size is particularly above 1000 mesh since, at this particle size, it is mixed well with
the other component and diffused well in a permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent operation. Therefore, a material generating anion according to the present invention is preferably K20A1203 6Si02 having a particle size of 1000 mesh and diffusing 5000-8000 anion /lcm3. An alkali degree of solvent according to the present invention should be 2.5 - 3.5, and its pH also should be 8.5 - 9.5. The reaction of a permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent operation according to the present invention with a hair is consisted as followings. A permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent operation according to the present invention is reacted to regenerate a sulfide bond by hydrolysis reaction of sulfide bond of cystine in alkali solution with a reducing agent other than reacting effect by M-SCN and dehydration and natural oxidation reaction at the time of dryness of hair or after that. Namely, hydrolysis and dehydration is incurred as followings. hydrolysis R-S-S-R + H20 R-S-H + H0-S-R dehydration R-S-H + H0-S-R R-S-S-R + H20
(The principle by reduction and natural oxidation
reaction) A sulfide -bond of cystine among keratin of hair is reacted as followings by reduction reaction by a reducing agent and natural oxidation reaction .
As the above description, in a permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent operation according to the present invention, three reaction of catalyst reaction, hydrolysis and dehydration, and reduction and oxidation reaction are happened at the same time complementary each other, whereby a reacting rate being higher than 95% compared to 60 ~ 70 % of a permanent cosmetic composition for two-step. Therefore, it is advantageous that damage of hair is inhibited and curl is rapidly formed, and maintenance of elasticity is excellent. A formation of iron cyanide compound is also prevented with inhibiting an activity of iron (Fe) by using a chelating agent'. As the above description, according to the present invention, it is possible to obtain good curl than prior
composition and maintenance of curl is excellent. Also, there is no an odor after permanent operation, and it can be to preserve a hair with natural hair having luster and operate easily. A permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent operation according to the present invention act to cut a sulfide bond (-S-S-) of cystine with cyanide produced in reacting principle of prior permanent cosmetic composition for two-step permanent operation, and consistently a water-soluble M-SCN added as catalyst induce the following reaction to couple a sulfide bond of cystine immediately, whereby formation of curl being completed without neutralizing agent (the second agent of two-step type, sodium bromide or peroxide) . R-S-S-R + M-SCN R-S-M + NC-S-S-R * M may be a caution being capable of binding with - SCN group such as K, Na, Fe and NH4. As the above description, in a permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent operation according to the present invention, lanthionine, R-S-R is not produced or reduced productivity by inducing a chemical equilibrium. Also, remaining M-SCN is removed easily by washing a hair, therefore recoupled R-S-S-R is increased by movement of a chemical equilibrium to be stable. Therefore, M-SCN that solve in water rapidly can be hardly remained in hair so that a secondary problem is not induced.
In case of using a permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent operation according to the present invention, it can be used the same with method of prior two-step type except no treating a neutralizing agent. Namely, describing in detail, a hair is first clearly washed with shampoo and then dried with towel roughly. Next, a permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent operation according to the present invention is coated, and the coated hair is coiled with lots and further coated with the permanent cosmetic composition. And then it is covered with a vinyl-cover and then heat-treated with an electric cap or an infrared rays heater during 15 - 20 minutes. After heat-treatment, a test-curl is carried out, and a vinyl-cover is removed, and then leaved natural circumstance during about 15 minutes. The lots are removed, and the hair is washed with water and immediately dried. In the above-mentioned method, the vinyl-cover may not be used, but in this case, the treating time is prolonged.
Description of Drawings Other objects and aspects of the present invention will become apparent from the following description of embodiments with reference to the accompanying drawing in which: Figure 1 is a plant view of tester for measuring an
efficacy of wave formation, Figure 2 is a side view of tester for measuring an efficacy of wave formation,
BEST MODE A greater understanding of the present invention and its concomitant advantages will be obtained by referring to the following Example and Comparative example provided, but it is not to limit the scope of the present invention.
Example 1 ~ 7 : Preparation of a permanent cosmetic composition for on -step permanent operation according to the present invention A permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent operation consisted with the ingredient and constituent rate of below table 1 is prepared by conventional method. [Table 1] Constituent rate of a permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent operation according to the present invention (% by weight)
Comparative example 1 ~ 2 : Preparation of a permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent operation according to the prior art Base on Korean Patent Registration No. 134755, a permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent operation consisted with the ingredient and constituent rate of below table 2 is prepared by conventional method. [Table 2] Constituent rate of a permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent operation according to the prior art (% by weight)
Comparative example 3 ~ 4 : Preparation of a permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent operation using a feldspar having a different anion generating number. Comparative example 3 A permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent is prepared by the same method with example 5 except using K20A1203 6Si02, having anion generating number of 4000 anion /1cm3.
Comparative example 4 A permanent cosmetic composition for one-step permanent is prepared by the same method with example 5 except using K20A1203 6Si02, having anion generating number of 9000 anion /1cm3.
Experimental example Experimental example 1 : Efficacy of wave formation An efficacy of wave formation for permanent cosmetic compositions prepared by example 1 - 7 and comparative 1 - 4 is assayed as following method. A measurement of efficacy of wave formation is carried out as below description by using an instrument for testing a wave formation by Kirbi's method. A one end of a bundle of swatch of hair having a length of 15 ~ 20cm is fixed on the one side of a plastic instrument as shown Fig. 1, and then it is passed a pin-rod in turn or turns. The other end of hair bundle is fixed on the other side of a plastic instrument as shown Fig. 1. The instrument is dipped into the vessels containing a permanent cosmetic compositions prepared by example 1 - 7 and comparative 1 - 4 respectively , and remained at 25 °Cduring 20 minutes. And then the instrument is taken out from the vessel and washed with flowing water. And a fixed swatch of hair is untied and dried. The dried hair is naturally fixed on the sheet glass having a scale, and an efficacy of wave formation is calculated by following equation 1. [Equation 1] Efficacy of wave formation (%) = 100- 100 X (b-a) / (c-a) Wherein, a is the length between the first and the
sixth pin-rod, b is the length between peak of wave, c is the straight length of the hair before wave formation.
Experimental example 2 : Assay for continuity of wave The bundle of swatch of hair being formed wave according to the above experimental example 1 is dipped into the test tube containing 30 % sodium laurylsulfate solution (pH=8.5) and sweat solution respectively, and remained at 45 °C during 60 minutes. And then the hair is taken out from the tube and washed with flowing water, and dried. The dried hair is naturally fixed on the sheet glass having a scale, and an efficacy of wave formation for before and after of this continuity test is calculated according to the above-mentioned method. With this result, a continuity of wave is calculated by following equation 2. Wherein, the above sweat solution may be prepared with 0.5g of L-cystein hydrochloride (1 hydride), 0.5g of sodium chloride, 5. Og of sodium hydrogenphosphate (12 hydride) , and remainder of distilled water to volume 1L, and adjusted pH to 11.0 with sodium hydroxide and distilled water. [Equation 2]
Continuity of wave (%) = (Efficacy of wave after continuity test / Efficacy of wave before continuity test) X 100
Experimental example 3 : Assay for straight formation A hair is first washed and then dried with towel roughly. Next, the permanent cosmetic compositions prepared by example 1 - 7 and comparative 1 - 4 is coated, and the coated hair is fixed at lots for straight and further coated with the permanent cosmetic compositions prepared by example 1 - 7 and comparative 1 - 4. And then it is covered with a vinyl-cover and then heat-treated with an electric cap during 15 minutes. After heat-treatment, an electric cap is removed. After 30 minutes at natural state, a vinyl- cover is removed, and then leaved natural circumstance during about 15 minutes. The lots are removed, and the hair is washed with water and the state of hair is examined by 10 persons who are skilled in field of hair beauty with the naked eye. A degree of straight formation is sorted to score of top point, 10 (very good) to low point, 1 (very bad) .
Experimental example 4 : Assay for damage of hair A decolorized hair, a stained hair and a normal hair having length of 15 ~20cm are each first washed with shampoo and then dried with towel roughly. Next, the permanent cosmetic compositions prepared by example 1 - 7 and comparative 1 - 4 is coated to the dried hairs respectively, and the coated hairs are coiled with lots,
and leaved at this state during 20 minutes. After the lots are removed, the hairs are washed with flowing water and the state of hair before and after treatment is examined by 10 persons who are skilled in field of hair beauty with the microscope, and measured degree of damage of cuticle layer. A basis of measurement is sorted to score of top point, 10 (very good) to low point, 1 (very bad) .
Experimental example 5 : Measurement of odor after treatment A measurement of odor after treatment for a swatch of treated-hair according to experimental example 1 and 2 is carried out by 10 persons who are skilled in field of hair beauty. According to using method, hairs of five group woman of each ages of the teens to about fifties is separated with two part, and then the each one treated with the permanent cosmetic compositions prepared by example 1 - 7 and comparative 1 ~ 4. For the each hair, the odor is measured with the above-mentioned persons. A basis of measurement is sorted to score of top point, 10 (very good) to low point, 1 (very bad) .
Experimental example 6: Test for stimuli of hair skin The skin regions behind ear that is covered with hair
are washed clearly with soap and then the permanent cosmetic compositions prepared by example 1 - 7 and comparative 1 - 4 is coated. After 20 - 30 minutes or 48 hours, it is washed with flowing water and the state of this regions is examined for a speck, a red spot, a black spot, a swelling, and a itching etc. A basis of measurement is sorted to score of top point, 10 (very good) to low point, 1 (very bad) .
Experimental example 7 : Assay for decolorization A hair is washed and then dried with towel roughly. Next, the permanent cosmetic compositions prepared by example 1 - 7 and comparative 1 - 4 is coated, and the coated hair is coiled with lots. And then it is covered with a vinyl-cover and then heat-treated with an electric cap during 15 minutes. After heat-treatment, an electric cap is removed. After 30 minutes at natural state, a vinyl- cover is removed, and then leaved natural circumstance during about 15 minutes. The lots are removed, and the hair is washed with water, and the state of decolorization is examined by 10 persons who are skilled in field of hair beauty with comparing with a swatch of hair before treatment. A basis of measurement is sorted to score of top point, 10 (very good) to low point, 1 (very bad) . The results of the above test are shown in the below
table 3. [Table 3] Result of test for each composition
As being shown in the above table 3, in an efficacy of wave formation and a continuity of wave, the composition prepared by experimental example 1 and 2 show the lowest value, the composition prepared by example 6 and 7 is followed. We can know that the composition prepared by
example 1 to 5 and experimental example 4 show the best state in an efficacy of wave formation and a continuity of wave . From the above result, we can surmise that anion inhibit damage of hair as well as activate a reducing action of a reducing agent so that formation of wave is happened more rapidly and strongly, whereby an efficacy of wave formation and a continuity of wave being increased. Consequently, a reducing agent and anion act on formation of wave with synergy effect.
Industrial availability As described in detail through the above example, a permanent cosmetic wave and straight composition for one- step permanent operation according to the present invention inhibit damages of hair, and increase a formation of curl and a maintaining capacity of formed curl, and increase a degree of curling completion prominently by enhancing an adhesive power for a hair, by controlling a pH, an alkali degree, and concentration of thioglycerol and adding a material generating anion.