WO2001021142A1

WO2001021142A1 - Compositions comprising insoluble and deformable flat organic particles

Info

Publication number: WO2001021142A1
Application number: PCT/FR2000/002589
Authority: WO
Inventors: Henri Samain
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 1999-09-20
Filing date: 2000-09-18
Publication date: 2001-03-29
Also published as: JP2003509449A; AU7527900A; EP1217982A1; FR2798586A1; FR2798586B1

Abstract

The invention concerns a cosmetic hair composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, 0.01 to 70 wt.% of insoluble and deformable flat organic particles, characterised in that said flat particles: (i) have a size ranging between 2 and 150 mu m; (ii) have a thickness ranging between 10 and 100 mu m; (iii) become soft at a temperature ranging between -20 and 100 DEG C.

Description

HAIR COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING ORGANIC, INSOLUBLE AND DEFORMABLE PLATES

The subject of the invention is cosmetic hair compositions comprising organic, insoluble and deformable platelets. It also relates to a hair cosmetic process comprising the application of these compositions as well as the use of organic platelets, insoluble and deformable in hair compositions.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “wafer” is understood to mean flat solid particles having the form of thin plates. Preferably, the wafers according to the invention have smooth surfaces.

According to the invention, the hair compositions may in particular be compositions for shine, for maintaining and / or fixing the hair, for making up the hair or for caring for the hair.

People with natural hair or hair that has already been styled or had perms or dyes often feels that their hair lacks shine, is difficult to untangle, and is too coarse.

To solve these problems, it has already been proposed to apply to the hair compositions containing fatty substances or hydrophobic bodies, such as silicones. Fairly effective in increasing the shine of the hair and reducing the problems of rough touch and detangling, these compositions however have drawbacks which limit their advantage. Among the most remarkable drawbacks, mention may be made of the fact that these compositions make the hair sticky, which is detrimental both visually and in terms of touching the hair.

Other solutions have been proposed to increase the shine of the hair. Thus, we tried to treat the hair with reflective mineral platelets, such as pieces of mica. However, the effect generally obtained with these mineral platelets is more an artificial effect of flickering of the hair than the desired effect of increasing the natural shine. Consequently, such mineral platelets are also not entirely satisfactory for increasing the quality of the shine of the hair.

In addition, the mineral platelets peel off quickly, either by themselves under their own weight or during a comb. Under these conditions, they fall on the neck and shoulders of the person, which of course harms his aesthetics. In addition, the hair is unpleasant to touch: there is a real roughness, due to the fact that the pads are stuck randomly, without marrying the shape of the hair.

We have already tried to use very small mineral plates. In this case, we certainly reduce the disadvantages of flickering and unpleasant touch, but we still do not obtain the desired natural shine effect.

We have also tried to use small organic plates. These pads give the same flickering effects. They are therefore not suitable for obtaining the desired natural shine.

There is therefore a need to find hair compositions which meet all of the above requirements, and in particular which give the hair a natural shine, without however altering their cosmetic properties.

The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that it was possible to solve this problem by using, in cosmetic formulations, insoluble and deformable organic platelets.

Thanks to these formulations, a notable improvement in the natural shine of the hair is obtained, at the same time as an improvement in certain cosmetic effects, such as a fiber texture effect or conditioning effects. The subject of the invention is a cosmetic hair composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, from 0.01 to 70% by weight of organic, insoluble and deformable platelets, characterized in that the said platelets: (i) have a size comprised between 2 and 150 μm;

(ii) have a thickness of between 10 nm and 100 μm;

(iii) soften at a temperature between -20 ° C and 100 ° C.

Another subject of the invention relates to a hair cosmetic process comprising the application of this composition.

Yet another object of the invention relates to the use of organic, insoluble and deformable platelets for the manufacture of a hair cosmetic composition, with the aim of bringing shine to the hair.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "size of the wafers" means the maximum dimension that it is possible to measure between two opposite points on a wafer.

Within the meaning of the present invention, to determine whether platelets "soften at a temperature T", they are placed in a glass crystallizer, at the rate of 1 gram of platelets in a crystallizer of 80 millimeters in diameter. The assembly formed by the crystallizer and the plates is brought to temperature T, by placing it in an oven for 2 hours. The relative humidity inside the oven is 30%. The whole is taken out of the oven and allowed to return to room temperature. A commercially available glass crystallizer is used.

It is said that the platelets "soften at temperature T" if, after having undergone the above operations, they stick, hang or adhere either to each other or to the walls of the crystallizer. On the contrary, the particles "cannot be softened at temperature T" if, after having undergone the above operations, the initial visual physical appearance of at least 50% of these platelets is not modified, and in particular if at least 20% of the plates remain separated from each other, as they were before their passage in the oven.

According to the invention, the plates advantageously have a size of between 5 and 50 μm, and preferably between 10 and 30 μm. In addition, their thickness is advantageously between 100 nm and 4 μm, and preferably between 200 nm and 2 μm.

According to the invention, platelets softening are used at a temperature between -20 and 100 ° C, and preferably between 20 and 80 ° C.

The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises between 0.05 and 20% by weight of platelets, and preferably between 1 and 4% by weight of platelets.

The platelets used in the compositions according to the invention are generally capable of being obtained by solution and evaporation of solvent (s), of an initial composition comprising at least one organic polymer whose glass transition temperature is included between 20 and 150 ° C, for a period of between 1 and 10 days, until a solid material is obtained, then by subsequent grinding of this material, the glass transition temperature of the organic polymer being advantageously between 20 and 150 ° C, and preferably between 20 and 100 ° C.

The initial composition from which it is possible to produce platelets preferably comprises at least one anionic or nonionic polymer in dispersed form and in particular in the form of latex.

To provide the hair with optimum shine, advantageously choose platelets having a coefficient of reflection (reflectivity) noted "r" between 2 and 75%, and preferably between 4 and 50%.

According to one embodiment of the compositions according to the invention, the wafers are formed by a stack of at least two layers of organic materials, each having different indices of refraction. In this case, each layer can advantageously have its own refractive index, different from that of the adjacent layer or, even more advantageously, all the layers have different refractive indices.

The cosmetically acceptable medium of the compositions in accordance with the invention advantageously comprises at least one organic solvent chosen from the group comprising C 1 to C alcohols, C ₅ to C ₁₀ alkanes, acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, acetate methyl, butyl acetate, ethyl acetate, dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane and mixtures thereof.

In addition, the compositions according to the invention may comprise cosmetic additives chosen from adhesive agents, reducing agents such as thiols, fatty substances, thickening agents, softeners, anti-foaming agents, moisturizing agents, agents antiperspirants, basifying agents, dyes, pigments, perfumes, preservatives, surfactants, fixing or non-fixing polymers, volatile or non-volatile silicones, in particular anionic silicones, polyols, proteins and vitamins.

Preferably, the platelets have faces having physical characteristics such that they stick to the hair during natural drying. In this case, the platelets soften at a temperature less than or equal to room temperature.

The bonding of the particles on the hair may be temporary, in which case mechanical abrasion makes it possible to detach the particles from the hair. It can also be semi-temporary, in which case washing with water, shampoo or with a solvent makes it possible to detach the particles. It can also be almost permanent, in which case, the particles can remain in practice for at least about 1 month on the hair before coming off.

According to the invention, it is possible to use, not platelets capable of sticking to the hair during natural drying, but platelets which do not stick to hair only by using an additional external supply of heat, for example from a helmet, a brushing or a hand dryer. In this case, the platelets soften at a temperature greater than or equal to room temperature.

It is also possible to use platelets which do not stick to the hair, either by natural drying or by an additional external heat supply, but to make the platelets stick to the hair using a two-step process: the first consisting in treating the hair with a preparation lotion and the second with a composition containing the platelets; the two compositions being chosen, from the point of view of their formulation, so that the platelets stick to the hair.

It is also possible to use compositions associating platelets and a means ensuring their bonding to the hair, such as polymers and in particular polymers of low Tg (typically below 0 ° C.).

The glass transition temperatures (Tg) of the polymers studied are measured using the DSC 2920 apparatus from the company TA INSTRUMENT using the technique of

"Differential Scanning Calorimetry". The polymers are conditioned 48 hours at

24 ° C and 44% RH before analysis. The measurement is carried out in a sealed crucible with a temperature rise of 10 ° C / min.

Insofar as the platelets used in the compositions in accordance with the invention soften, they conform perfectly to the cylindrical shape of the hair, and are generally arranged in the direction of the length of the hair, possibly forming a portion of cylinder. In doing so, the appearance of the hair remains natural and smooth, since the platelets follow the shape of the hair well, and the platelet brings, in itself, in a natural way, an increase in shine. As a result, the shine is improved, the feel is more pleasant and the disentangling is facilitated.

It is possible to evaluate the shine imparted to the hair by the compositions according to the invention by means of a sensory test. For this, strands of Eurochestan hair are used, and a composition in accordance with the present invention, and others, a composition according to the prior art known to provide shine.

We have a wick on a flat support. It is lit by a fixed halogen lamp. An observer is placed in the mirror position, in the plane of incidence of light (specular reflection). It notes the brightness between 0 (dull) and 50 (mirror effect).

The wick is then tilted relative to its initial position, the observer being stationary. We thus choose 5 angles of inclination of the wick for which the observer notes, each time, the brightness between 0 and 50. The 5 notes are averaged, which gives the result of the shine for a wick.

It is observed that the results obtained for the locks treated with the composition according to the invention are superior to those of the locks treated with the compositions according to the prior art, and on the other hand that the scores obtained for each angle of inclination of the lock treated with the compositions according to the invention are substantially similar, while the difference is significant, between each of the notes, for the locks treated in accordance with the prior art.

Due to the particular properties of the platelets used in the compositions according to the invention, it is now possible to obtain, not a perception of flicker of the hair, but a perception of shine. Indeed, unlike the compositions of the prior art containing rigid plates, which act like small mirrors, by reflecting light in only one direction, the compositions according to the invention provide a perception of gloss whatever the angle d 'observation, the fact that the platelets practically follow the curvature of the hair.

Furthermore, the compositions in accordance with the invention have a gloss which, from a quantitative point of view, is clearly greater than that obtained with the compositions of the prior art containing compounds of the silicone type. Consequently, the compositions in accordance with the invention provide the locks with a gloss greater than that imparted by the compositions in accordance with the prior art. In addition, the compositions in accordance with the invention give rise, not to flickering as is the case for the compositions of the prior art, but to a natural shine, which is materialized by the practically similar gloss notes obtained for the different angles of inclination of the drill bit.

The particle size is evaluated by light microscopy. To do this, the particles are spread on a microscope slide. The size of 40 particles is measured by noting the greatest distance between two edges of each particle. We average these distances.

According to the invention, anionic polymers, cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers and nonionic polymers can be used for producing the wafers. We prefer non-ionic polymers. In particular the polymers formed by polymerization of esters of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or crotonic acid.

The compositions according to the invention can be used for rinsed or leave-in applications.

According to the invention, the compositions take the usual forms used in cosmetics, such as, in a non-exhaustive manner, sprays, gels, foams, lotions, shampoos, conditioners, care creams. They are preferably packaged in lotion.

It is also possible to produce coloring compositions by introducing into the compositions according to the invention, dyes or pigments. To do this, dyes and pigments are used depending on the desired dye results.

It is also possible to introduce, at least in part of the plates, directly dyes or pigments. You can also make compositions according to the invention comprising at least certain plates providing, because of their physical properties, iridescent or colored effects. In the latter two cases, the particles must retain, in addition to the optical effects described, all of the properties previously described.

The invention can be better understood using the nonlimiting example which follows and which constitutes an advantageous embodiment of the compositions according to the invention.

The percentages are relative percentages by weight. M. A. means active ingredient.

EXAMPLE:

On the one hand, a first formulation "A" is produced, in accordance with the prior art, based on the phenylated silicone Mirasil DPMP® marketed by Rhône Poulenc.

Formulation A (prior art:

Mirasil DPDM ® 0.3% Water qs 100%

On the other hand, a formulation “B” based on insoluble organic platelets and in accordance with the invention is produced:

The platelets are obtained by the procedure described below:

The following composition is produced:

MOWTLITH LDM 6070 ⁽¹ 0.1% (MA) Water qs 100% ⁽¹⁾ styrene / butyl acrylate latex having a glass transition temperature of between 20 and 25 ° C., sold by Hoechst

100 g of this composition are poured into a 200 cm ² Teflon matrix. The composition is allowed to dry at room temperature for 5 days. Then, the formed film is scraped, grinding it if necessary, until platelets of average size of 10 μm are obtained, the range of sizes being between 2 and 30 μm.

It is checked that the plates produced soften at 100 ° C.

Formulation B is carried out as follows:

Formulation B (invention):

Platelets (see realization above) 0.3% Water qs 100%

The two formulations are applied at a rate of 1 gram per 5 grams of hair on locks of natural brown hair. Then the wicks are put to dry. Finally, the cosmetic properties of the locks are evaluated, by a sensory test, with 8 testers.

The locks treated with formulation A in accordance with the prior art are shiny, but their feel is greasy and unpleasant. The locks treated with formulation B according to the invention are shiny and their feel is clearly more natural and more pleasant than that of the locks treated with composition A. In addition, the gloss obtained by the lock treated with composition B is more natural than that treated with composition A in accordance with the prior art.

Claims

1. Hair cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, from 0.01 to 70% by weight of organic, insoluble and deformable platelets, characterized in that the said platelets:

(i) have a size between 2 and 150 μm; (ii) have a thickness of between 10 nm and 100 μm; (iii) soften at a temperature between -20 ° C and 100 ° C.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the platelets have a size between 5 and 50 microns, and preferably between 10 and 30 microns.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the platelets have a thickness between 100 nm and 4 μm, and preferably between 200 nm and 2 μm. ^~

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the platelets soften at a temperature between 20 and 80 ° C.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises between 0.05 and 20% by weight of platelets, and preferably between 1 and 4% by weight of platelets.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the platelets are capable of being obtained by dissolving and evaporating solvent (s), at a temperature between 20 and 150 ° C, an initial composition comprising at least one organic polymer whose glass transition temperature is between 20 and 150 ° C, for a period of between 1 and 10 days, until a solid material is obtained, then by subsequent grinding of this material.

7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the glass transition temperature is between 20 and 150 ° C, and preferably between 20 and 100 ° C.

8. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the initial composition comprises at least one anionic or nonionic polymer in dispersed form and in particular in the form of latex.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the plates have a reflection coefficient of between 2 and 75%, and preferably between 4 and 50%.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the plates are formed by a stack of at least two layers of organic material, each having different refractive indices.

11. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that each layer has its own refractive index, different from that of the adjacent layer.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 10 or 11, characterized in that all the layers have different indices of refraction.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetically acceptable medium comprises at least one organic solvent chosen from the group comprising C 1 to C ₄ alcohols, C ₅ to C ₁₀ alkanes, acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, methyl acetate, butyl acetate, ethyl acetate, dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane and mixtures thereof.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises cosmetic additives chosen from adhesive agents, reducing agents such as thiols, fatty substances, thickening agents, softeners, anti-foaming agents, moisturizing agents, antiperspirants, alkalizing agents, dyes, pigments, perfumes, preservatives, surfactants, fixing polymers or not, volatile silicones or not, in particular anionic silicones, polyols, proteins and vitamins.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is packaged in an aerosol device.

16. Hair cosmetic process, characterized in that it comprises the application of a hair cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15.

17. Use of organic, insoluble and deformable plates: (i) having a size of between 2 and 150 μm;

(ii) having a thickness of between 10 nm and 100 μm; and (iii) soften at a temperature between -20 and 100 ° C. for the manufacture of a cosmetic hair composition, with the aim of bringing shine to the hair.

18. Use according to claim 17, characterized in that the plates have a reflection coefficient of between 2 and 75%.

19. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, as a composition for shine, for maintaining and / or fixing the hairstyle, for caring for or making up the hair.