WO1999025369A1 - Compositions for cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical use containing a plant extract obtained from kava piper methysticum roots - Google Patents

Compositions for cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical use containing a plant extract obtained from kava piper methysticum roots Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1999025369A1
WO1999025369A1 PCT/FR1998/002393 FR9802393W WO9925369A1 WO 1999025369 A1 WO1999025369 A1 WO 1999025369A1 FR 9802393 W FR9802393 W FR 9802393W WO 9925369 A1 WO9925369 A1 WO 9925369A1
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Prior art keywords
kava
cosmetic
extract
piper methysticum
compositions according
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PCT/FR1998/002393
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French (fr)
Inventor
Karl Lintner
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Sederma S.A.
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Priority to AU11616/99A priority Critical patent/AU1161699A/en
Publication of WO1999025369A1 publication Critical patent/WO1999025369A1/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/006—Antidandruff preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/67—Piperaceae (Pepper family), e.g. Jamaican pepper or kava
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/06—Preparations for care of the skin for countering cellulitis
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q7/00—Preparations for affecting hair growth

Definitions

  • compositions for cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical use containing a plant extract obtained from the roots of Kava Piper methysticum.
  • Kava Piper methysticum is a 1 to 2 meter shrub found from New Guinea to Fiji and Hawaii. Its usual use consists of crushed roots or stems to obtain a thirst-quenching drink, with a taste of liquorice or slightly peppery anise, which is highly prized by local people. This use of Kava has been known for a very long time since the Polynesians offered it to Captain COOK in 1769 as a token of welcome.
  • Kava Piper methysticum root extracts also have beneficial effects when applied topically.
  • the invention which is the subject of this present patent resides in the discovery that a plant extract obtained from the roots of Kava Piper methysticum, is capable of protecting the skin from the effects of the various stresses mentioned above, by properties soothing, hydrating, regulating microcirculation and cellular respiration.
  • the plant extract of Kava is obtained by extraction in a ratio of 15 grams of Kava Piper methysticum roots per 85 grams of a water / polyethylene glycol mixture (50/50, w / w) for 1 hour at 60 ° C. After drying, the dry extract is taken up in butylene glycol.
  • Kava Piper methysticum This example of obtaining the plant extract of Kava Piper methysticum, is not limiting It is indeed possible to produce the Kava extract by other methods such as, for example, simple decoction, leaching, l 'extraction under reflux, extraction by means of ultrasound or microwaves or finally against the current techniques, without this list being exhaustive.
  • the extraction solvents mentioned above are not limiting and can be chosen from water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, methyl or ethyl ethers of diglycols, polyols cyclic, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols, alcohols (methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol), or any mixture of these solvents.
  • HPLC high pressure liquid chromatography
  • the first which is an ex-vivo test consists in exposing a reconstituted skin to different stresses.
  • the reconstituted skin, or Living Skin Equivalent obtained in the form of a ready-to-use kit, consists of a dermal layer on which are affixed keratinocytes which will form a multilayer epidermis, differentiated and similar to normal skin.
  • This method is an alternative benchmark method in Cosmetics and Dermopharmacy since it allows products to be tested by an in vitro method but under conditions very close to vivo wine.
  • Mitochondrial respiration is conventionally evaluated by the MTT reagent ([3- (4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl) -2, '- diphenyltetrazolium bromide]) whose color changes from yellow to blue under the action of a dehydrogenase mitochondrial.
  • MTT reagent [3- (4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl) -2, '- diphenyltetrazolium bromide]
  • the cell regeneration test consists in applying a solution of triethanolamine (30%), for 30 minutes, to the equivalent skin and then rinsing it several times with demineralized water. The test products are then applied for two hours, after which time the number of surviving cells is measured as above using MTT. Under these conditions, in the presence of milk containing Kava extract, the rate of cellular respiration, and therefore the number of surviving cells was 28% higher than that observed in the presence of placebo milk alone. Given the 5% higher mitochondrial respiration rate in the presence of the previously found Kava extract, it is possible to conclude that in the presence of the Kava extract, the number of living cells after chemical attack is higher about 20% than in his absence.
  • the second test carried out known as the "Stinging Test" is an in vivo test conventionally used to demonstrate soothing properties on the skin of cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical products and can be described as follows.
  • a 10% solution of lactic acid in physiological saline is applied to each of the two nasolabial folds.
  • Body milk the composition of which was given previously as an example of use, containing 4% of Kava root extract, is applied as it is, in one go, at the onset of tingling, on the side of the nose previously chosen from randomized by the investigator. At the same time, the other side receives the placebo (same composition except for the absence of Kava root extract).
  • the intensity of the tingling is noted during the 5 minutes following the application, in the area having received the placebo or the Kava root extract, according to the same rating system as that determined for the evaluation of the initial reactivity.
  • the entire test is carried out in an air-conditioned room, in which the ambient temperature and the humidity are kept constant. The average tingling intensity was determined at each time of the test, by calculating the arithmetic mean and the deviation from the mean (SEM) of the individual data obtained on all the volunteers.
  • body milk without Kava root extract (placebo milk) has the same scores as those usually observed in untreated areas, which clearly shows that it is only with Kava root extract previously described in this patent that the observed beneficial effect can be attributed.
  • the plant extract obtained from Kava Piper methysticum described above can be used in any galenic form used in Cosmetics or Dermopharmacy: O / W and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions, ointments, hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays, body oils, without this list being exhaustive. It is possible to incorporate the plant extract obtained from Kava Piper methysticum previously described, in cosmetic vectors such as liposomes, chylomicrons, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles as well as macro-, micro- and nanocapsules , absorb them on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites and other mineral supports.
  • the plant extract obtained from Kava Piper methysticum described above can be combined in cosmetic compositions with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics: extraction and / or synthetic lipids, gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, active ingredients water- or fat-soluble, extracts from other plants, tissue extracts, marine extracts.
  • concentrations of the plant extract obtained from Kava Piper methysticum previously described can vary between 0.01% and 50% (w / w), preferably between 0.5% and 7% by weight, in the finished product.

Abstract

The invention concerns compositions for cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical use containing, in sufficient amount, a plant extract obtained from Kava Piper methysticum roots. The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions containing said plant extract are advantageously used in conditions of stress, whether physical, chemical or psychological, which affect the cutaneous metabolism and therefore the functions and appearance of the skin.

Description

Titre Compositions à usage cosmétique ou dermopharmaceutique contenant un extrait végétal obtenu à partir des racines de Kava Piper methysticum.Title Compositions for cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical use containing a plant extract obtained from the roots of Kava Piper methysticum.
Les conditions de vie actuelles font subir aux organismes des agressions de toutes sortes, physiques, chimiques et psychologiques. Comme la peau constitue la seule interface entre l'individu et le monde extérieur, il est clair que cet organe est le premier élément corporel atteint par les agressions physiques et chimiques extérieures, mieux connues sous le nom de pollution en général et pollution atmosphérique en particulier. Le stress psychologique quant à lui se répercute au niveau cutané par deux voies différentes. D'une part, le stress psychique a des répercussions directement physiologiques. La peau subit des altérations dues aux déséquilibres induits par les brusques variations des taux d'hormones circulantes, en réponses aux différentes séquences du stress quotidien. Ces brusques variations modifient au niveau intime des cellules, cutanées et autres, les régulations biochimiques, délicates et fines, qui assurent la pérennité d'un organisme. Bien que non localisée au niveau cutané, la conséquence la plus connue de ce type de stress est l'ulcère de l'estomac.Current living conditions subject organisms to attacks of all kinds, physical, chemical and psychological. As the skin constitutes the only interface between the individual and the outside world, it is clear that this organ is the first bodily element affected by external physical and chemical attacks, better known as pollution in general and atmospheric pollution in particular . Psychological stress, on the other hand, affects the skin in two different ways. On the one hand, mental stress has direct physiological repercussions. The skin undergoes alterations due to imbalances induced by sudden variations in the levels of circulating hormones, in response to the different sequences of daily stress. These abrupt variations modify at the intimate level of cells, skin and others, the biochemical regulations, delicate and fine, which ensure the sustainability of an organism. Although not localized in the skin, the best known consequence of this type of stress is stomach ulcer.
D'autre part, pour faire face aux stress psychiques, les individus ont de plus en plus recours à des palliatifs comme par exemple, l'alimentation déséquilibrée qui va du simple désordre quotidien à la boulimie ou à l'anorexie, le tabac, l'alcool, voire des produits antidépresseurs. Les conséquences néfastes des consommations excessives de tabac et d'alcool sont bien connues au niveau cutané: dessèchement et vieillissement prématuré en sont deux des principales caractéristiques.On the other hand, to cope with mental stress, individuals are increasingly resorting to palliative measures such as, for example, unbalanced diet which ranges from simple daily disorder to bulimia or anorexia, tobacco, l alcohol or even antidepressant products. The harmful consequences of excessive tobacco and alcohol consumption are well known in the skin: dryness and premature aging are two of the main characteristics.
Ces agressions sont permanentes et il est quasiment impossible de s'y soustraire de manière continue et efficace. Il est alors dans la logique des industries Cosmétiques et Dermo-pharmaceutiques de mettre au point des produits qui aident la peau à mieux supporter, voire à corriger et/ou à réparer, les conséquences néfastes de ces agressions de toutes sortes. Le Kava Piper methysticum est un arbuste qui mesure de 1 à 2 mètres et que l'on trouve de la Nouvelle-Guinée aux îles Fidji et à Hawaii. Son utilisation habituelle consiste en des broyats de racines ou de tiges pour obtenir une boisson désaltérante, au goût de réglisse ou d'anis légèrement poivré, qui est fort prisée par les populations locales. Cet usage du Kava est connu depuis fort longtemps puisque les polynésiens en offrirent au capitaine COOK en 1769 comme gage de bienvenue.These attacks are permanent and it is almost impossible to escape them continuously and effectively. It is therefore in the logic of the Cosmetics and Dermo-pharmaceutical industries to develop products that help the skin to better withstand, or even correct and / or repair, the harmful consequences of these attacks of all kinds. Kava Piper methysticum is a 1 to 2 meter shrub found from New Guinea to Fiji and Hawaii. Its usual use consists of crushed roots or stems to obtain a thirst-quenching drink, with a taste of liquorice or slightly peppery anise, which is highly prized by local people. This use of Kava has been known for a very long time since the Polynesians offered it to Captain COOK in 1769 as a token of welcome.
Nous avons découvert que les extraits de racine de Kava Piper methysticum possèdent aussi des effets bénéfiques lorsqu'ils sont appliqués par voie topique. L'invention faisant l'objet de ce présent brevet, réside dans la découverte qu'un extrait végétal obtenu à partir des racines du Kava Piper methysticum, est capable de protéger la peau des effets des différents stress évoqués ci-dessus, par des propriétés apaisantes, hydratantes, régulatrices de la microcirculation et de la respiration cellulaire. L'extrait végétal de Kava est obtenu par extraction dans un rapport de 15 grammes de racines du Kava Piper methysticum pour 85 grammes d'un mélange eau/polyéthylène glycol (50/50, p/p) pendant 1 heure à 60°C. Après séchage, l'extrait sec est repris dans du butylène glycol.We have discovered that Kava Piper methysticum root extracts also have beneficial effects when applied topically. The invention which is the subject of this present patent resides in the discovery that a plant extract obtained from the roots of Kava Piper methysticum, is capable of protecting the skin from the effects of the various stresses mentioned above, by properties soothing, hydrating, regulating microcirculation and cellular respiration. The plant extract of Kava is obtained by extraction in a ratio of 15 grams of Kava Piper methysticum roots per 85 grams of a water / polyethylene glycol mixture (50/50, w / w) for 1 hour at 60 ° C. After drying, the dry extract is taken up in butylene glycol.
Cet exemple d'obtention de l'extrait végétal du Kava Piper methysticum, n'est pas limitatif II est en effet possible de réaliser l'extrait de Kava par d'autres procédés comme, par exemple, la simple décoction, la lixiviation, l'extraction sous reflux, l'extraction au moyen d'ultrasons ou de micro-ondes ou enfin des techniques à contre courant, sans que cette liste soit limitative. Par ailleurs, les solvants d'extraction cités ci-dessus ne sont pas limitatifs et peuvent être choisis parmi l'eau, le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, la glycérine, le polyéthylène glycol, les éthers méthyliques ou éthyliques des diglycols, les polyols cycliques, les diglycols éthoxylés ou propoxylés, les alcools (méthanol, éthanol, propanol, butanol), ou tout mélange de ces solvants. L'analyse par chromatographie liquide haute pression (HPLC) de l'extrait de Kava révèle la présence de différents composés de type lactone parmi lesquels domine la kawaïne.This example of obtaining the plant extract of Kava Piper methysticum, is not limiting It is indeed possible to produce the Kava extract by other methods such as, for example, simple decoction, leaching, l 'extraction under reflux, extraction by means of ultrasound or microwaves or finally against the current techniques, without this list being exhaustive. Furthermore, the extraction solvents mentioned above are not limiting and can be chosen from water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, methyl or ethyl ethers of diglycols, polyols cyclic, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols, alcohols (methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol), or any mixture of these solvents. Analysis by high pressure liquid chromatography (HPLC) of the Kava extract reveals the presence of various lactone-type compounds among which kawaïne dominates.
Bien qu'il ne soit pas limitatif, l'exemple suivant illustrera une utilisation possible de l'extrait végétal obtenu à partir de Kava Piper methysticum dans une composition cosmétique ou dermopharmaceutique :Although it is not limiting, the following example will illustrate a possible use of the plant extract obtained from Kava Piper methysticum in a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition:
Lait corporelBody lotion
Polysorbate 60 2,5Polysorbate 60 2.5
Acide oléique 0,9Oleic acid 0.9
Huile de lanoline 2,5Lanolin oil 2.5
Carbopol 940 0,3Carbopol 940 0.3
Cire d'abeille 2,0Beeswax 2.0
Triéthanolamine 0,1Triethanolamine 0.1
Glycérine 5,0Glycerin 5.0
Extrait de racines de Kava 4,0Kava Root Extract 4.0
Eau & conservateurs QSP 100g Parmi les divers effets bénéfiques trouvés au cours du développement de l'extrait végétal de Kava décrit précédemment, deux tests d'efficacité seront mentionnés.Water & preservatives QSP 100g Among the various beneficial effects found during the development of the plant extract of Kava described above, two efficacy tests will be mentioned.
Le premier qui est un test ex-vivo consiste à exposer une peau reconstituée à différents stress. La peau reconstituée, ou Living Skin Equivalent, obtenue sous forme de kit prêt à l'emploi, consiste en une couche dermique sur laquelle sont apposés de kératinocytes qui vont former un épiderme multicouches, différencié et semblable à la peau normale. Cette méthode est une méthode alternative de référence en Cosmétique et en Dermopharmacie puisqu'elle permet de tester des produits par une méthode in vitro mais dans les conditions très proches de Vin vivo. Au moyen de ce système, nous avons testé deux activités différentes: l'innocuité de l'extrait de Kava sur les cellules utilisées par la mesure de la respiration cellulaire ainsi que le pouvoir régénérant cellulaire (antistress et réparateur) après une agression chimique réalisée avec une solution de triéthanolamine à 30%. Le lait corporel a été testé en comparaison de la même composition réalisée sans extrait de racine de Kava (lait placebo).The first which is an ex-vivo test consists in exposing a reconstituted skin to different stresses. The reconstituted skin, or Living Skin Equivalent, obtained in the form of a ready-to-use kit, consists of a dermal layer on which are affixed keratinocytes which will form a multilayer epidermis, differentiated and similar to normal skin. This method is an alternative benchmark method in Cosmetics and Dermopharmacy since it allows products to be tested by an in vitro method but under conditions very close to vivo wine. By means of this system, we tested two different activities: the harmlessness of Kava extract on the cells used for the measurement of cellular respiration as well as the cellular regenerative power (anti-stress and repair) after a chemical attack carried out with a 30% triethanolamine solution. Body milk was tested in comparison with the same composition made without Kava root extract (placebo milk).
La respiration mitochondriale est classiquement évaluée par le réactif MTT ([3-(4,5- dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,'-diphenyltetrazolium bromide]) dont la coloration passe du jaune au bleu sous l'action d'une déshydrogénase mitochondriale. Dans ces conditions, l'innocuité de l'extrait de racine de Kava est démontrée puisque le niveau de respiration cellulaire était supérieur de 5% à celui observé avec le lait placebo. Comme entre les deux laits testés, les tapis cellulaires étaient en tout point identiques, il est possible de conclure également à une amélioration de la respiration cellulaire en présence de l'extrait de Kava. Le test de régénération cellulaire consiste à appliquer une solution de triéthanolamine (30%), pendant 30 minutes, sur la peau équivalente puis, de la rincer plusieurs fois avec de l'eau déminéralisée. Les produits à tester sont alors appliqués pendant deux heures, laps de temps au bout duquel le nombre de cellules survivantes est mesuré comme ci- dessus au moyen du MTT. Dans ces conditions, en présence du lait contenant l'extrait de Kava, le taux de la respiration cellulaire, et donc le nombre de cellules survivantes était supérieur de 28% à celui observé en présence du seul lait placebo. Compte tenu du taux de respiration mitochondriale supérieur de 5% en présence de l'extrait de Kava précédemment trouvé, il est possible de conclure qu'en présence de l'extrait de Kava, le nombre de cellule vivantes après l'agression chimique est supérieur d'environ 20% qu'en son absence. Le second test réalisé, connu sous le nom de "Stinging Test", est un test in vivo classiquement utilisé pour mettre en évidence des propriétés apaisantes au niveau cutané de produits cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques et peut être décrit comme suit.Mitochondrial respiration is conventionally evaluated by the MTT reagent ([3- (4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl) -2, '- diphenyltetrazolium bromide]) whose color changes from yellow to blue under the action of a dehydrogenase mitochondrial. Under these conditions, the safety of Kava root extract has been demonstrated since the level of cellular respiration was 5% higher than that observed with placebo milk. As between the two milks tested, the cell belts were identical in every respect, it is also possible to conclude that the cellular respiration improved in the presence of the Kava extract. The cell regeneration test consists in applying a solution of triethanolamine (30%), for 30 minutes, to the equivalent skin and then rinsing it several times with demineralized water. The test products are then applied for two hours, after which time the number of surviving cells is measured as above using MTT. Under these conditions, in the presence of milk containing Kava extract, the rate of cellular respiration, and therefore the number of surviving cells was 28% higher than that observed in the presence of placebo milk alone. Given the 5% higher mitochondrial respiration rate in the presence of the previously found Kava extract, it is possible to conclude that in the presence of the Kava extract, the number of living cells after chemical attack is higher about 20% than in his absence. The second test carried out, known as the "Stinging Test", is an in vivo test conventionally used to demonstrate soothing properties on the skin of cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical products and can be described as follows.
Une solution à 10% d'acide lactique dans du sérum physiologique est appliquée au niveau de chacun des deux sillons nasogéniens. Les sensations de picotements sont évaluées par le volontaire, immédiatement après l'application, au niveau des deux sillons, par un système de cotation bien défini (aucun picotement=0; légers=l; modérés=2; importants=3).A 10% solution of lactic acid in physiological saline is applied to each of the two nasolabial folds. The tingling sensations are evaluated by the volunteer, immediately after application, at the level of the two grooves, by a well-defined rating system (no tingling = 0; slight = l; moderate = 2; significant = 3).
Le lait corporel dont la composition a été donnée précédemment comme exemple d'utilisation, contenant 4 % d'extrait de racine de Kava est appliqué tel quel, en une seule fois, dès l'apparition des picotements, du côté du nez préalablement choisi de manière randomisée par l'investigateur. Dans le même temps, l'autre coté reçoit le placebo (même composition si ce n'est l'absence d'extrait de racine de Kava). L'intensité des picotements est relevée au cours des 5 minutes suivant l'application, au niveau de la zone ayant reçu le placebo ou l'extrait de racine de Kava, selon le même système de cotation que celui déterminé pour l'évaluation de la réactivité initiale. La totalité de l'essai est réalisée dans une pièce climatisée, dans laquelle la température ambiante et l'hygrométrie est maintenue constante. L'intensité moyenne des picotements a été déterminée à chaque temps de l'essai, par le calcul de la moyenne arithmétique et de l'écart par rapport à la moyenne (SEM) des données individuelles obtenues sur l'ensemble des volontaires.Body milk, the composition of which was given previously as an example of use, containing 4% of Kava root extract, is applied as it is, in one go, at the onset of tingling, on the side of the nose previously chosen from randomized by the investigator. At the same time, the other side receives the placebo (same composition except for the absence of Kava root extract). The intensity of the tingling is noted during the 5 minutes following the application, in the area having received the placebo or the Kava root extract, according to the same rating system as that determined for the evaluation of the initial reactivity. The entire test is carried out in an air-conditioned room, in which the ambient temperature and the humidity are kept constant. The average tingling intensity was determined at each time of the test, by calculating the arithmetic mean and the deviation from the mean (SEM) of the individual data obtained on all the volunteers.
L'analyse des résultats a porté sur les valeurs obtenues au niveau de la zone traitée avec le produit étudié, en comparaison aux valeurs acquises au niveau de la zone témoin ayant reçu l'acide lactique seul avant l'application du produit étudié ("temps 0"), pour chacune des zones traitée et témoin.The analysis of the results related to the values obtained at the level of the zone treated with the product studied, in comparison with the values acquired at the level of the control zone having received lactic acid alone before the application of the product studied ("time 0 "), for each of the treated and control zones.
Ce test a été réalisé sur 20 volontaires, 18 femmes et de 2 hommes, âgés de 21 à 47 ans qui avaient tous la peau du visage définie comme étant "hypersensible", par la méthode du "Stinging Test". L'analyse des résultats démontre que par rapport au placebo, le lait contenant l'extrait de racine de Kava entraîne une diminution significative de l'intensité des picotements, et cela, dès les 5 premières secondes d'application et durant les 5 minutes que dure l'essai. Le lait corporel contenant l'extrait de racine de Kava précédemment décrit démontre donc clairement, au niveau cutané, un puissant effet apaisant vis-à-vis des picotements ressentis par les volontaires à la suite de l'agression chimique. Il est à noter que dans les mêmes conditions expérimentales, le lait corporel sans l'extrait de racines de Kava (lait placebo) présente les mêmes scores que ceux observés habituellement sur des zones non traitées, ce qui démontre bien que c'est seulement à l'extrait de racines de Kava précédemment décrit dans ce brevet que l'on peut attribuer l'effet bénéfique observé. Les effets décrits ci-dessus (amélioration de la respiration mitochondriale, pouvoir régénérant cellulaire et pouvoir apaisant) étant donnés à titre d'exemple, il est possible de mentionner, sans que la liste suivante soit exhaustive, d'autres effets bénéfiques de l'extrait de racines de Kava sur les conséquences cutanées néfastes induites par toutes situations de stress, comme, par exemple, des propriétés apaisantes, calmantes, relaxantes, hydratantes, régénérantes, régulatrices de la microcirculation et de la respiration cellulaire; propriétés qui sont nécessaires pour obtenir des effets anti-vieillissement, antiride, anti- inflammatoire, amincissantes, sur le cuir chevelu (antipelliculaire et ou anti chute de cheveux), sur la peau acnéique et donc des effets qui prolongent la souplesse et la fonction protectrice de la peau. L'extrait végétal de Kava Piper methysticum est utilisé soit sous forme liquide, soit sous forme sèche obtenue par les techniques classiques de précipitation, de séchage, d'évaporation, d'atomisation ou de lyophilisationThis test was carried out on 20 volunteers, 18 women and 2 men, aged 21 to 47 who all had facial skin defined as "hypersensitive", by the "Stinging Test" method. Analysis of the results shows that compared to placebo, milk containing Kava root extract causes a significant decrease in the intensity of tingling, and this, from the first 5 seconds of application and during the 5 minutes that lasts the test. The body milk containing the Kava root extract described above therefore clearly demonstrates, at the cutaneous level, a powerful soothing effect against the tingling sensations felt by the volunteers following the chemical attack. It should be noted that in the same experimental conditions, body milk without Kava root extract (placebo milk) has the same scores as those usually observed in untreated areas, which clearly shows that it is only with Kava root extract previously described in this patent that the observed beneficial effect can be attributed. The effects described above (improvement in mitochondrial respiration, cellular regenerating power and soothing power) being given by way of example, it is possible to mention, without the following list being exhaustive, other beneficial effects of extract of Kava roots on the harmful skin consequences induced by all situations of stress, such as, for example, soothing, calming, relaxing, hydrating, regenerating, regulating microcirculation and cellular respiration; properties which are necessary to obtain anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammatory, slimming effects, on the scalp (anti-dandruff and or anti hair loss), on acne skin and therefore effects which prolong the suppleness and the protective function skin. The plant extract of Kava Piper methysticum is used either in liquid form or in dry form obtained by conventional techniques of precipitation, drying, evaporation, atomization or lyophilization
L'extrait végétal obtenu à partir de Kava Piper methysticum précédemment décrit peut être utilisé dans toute forme galénique employée en Cosmétique ou Dermopharmacie: émulsions H/E et E/H, laits, lotions, pommades, lotions capillaires, shampooings, savons, sticks et crayons, sprays, huiles corporelles, sans que cette liste soit limitative. Il est possible d'incorporer l'extrait végétal obtenu à partir de Kava Piper methysticum précédemment décrit, dans des vecteurs cosmétiques tels que les liposomes, les chylomicrons, les macro-, micro- et nanoparticules ainsi que les macro-, micro- et nanocapsules, de les absorber sur des polymères organiques poudreux, les talcs, bentonites et autres supports minéraux.The plant extract obtained from Kava Piper methysticum described above can be used in any galenic form used in Cosmetics or Dermopharmacy: O / W and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions, ointments, hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays, body oils, without this list being exhaustive. It is possible to incorporate the plant extract obtained from Kava Piper methysticum previously described, in cosmetic vectors such as liposomes, chylomicrons, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles as well as macro-, micro- and nanocapsules , absorb them on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites and other mineral supports.
L'extrait végétal obtenu à partir de Kava Piper methysticum précédemment décrit peut être combiné dans les compositions cosmétiques avec tout autre ingrédient habituellement utilisé en cosmétique: lipides d'extraction et/ou de synthèse, polymères gélifiants et viscosants, tensioactifs et émulsifiants, principes actifs hydro- ou liposolubles, extraits d'autres plantes, extraits tissulaires, extraits marins.The plant extract obtained from Kava Piper methysticum described above can be combined in cosmetic compositions with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics: extraction and / or synthetic lipids, gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, active ingredients water- or fat-soluble, extracts from other plants, tissue extracts, marine extracts.
Les concentrations de l'extrait végétal obtenu à partir de Kava Piper methysticum précédemment décrit peuvent varier entre 0,01% et 50% (p/p), préférentiellement entre 0.5 % et 7 % en poids, dans le produit fini. The concentrations of the plant extract obtained from Kava Piper methysticum previously described can vary between 0.01% and 50% (w / w), preferably between 0.5% and 7% by weight, in the finished product.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques, caractérisées en ce qu'elles contiennent un extrait végétal de racines de Kava Piper methysticum.1. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions, characterized in that they contain a plant extract of the roots of Kava Piper methysticum.
2. Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques selon la revendication 1 caractérisées en ce que les solvants d'extraction utilisés sont choisis parmi l'eau, le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, la glycérine, le polyéthylène glycol, les éthers méthyliques ou éthyliques des diglycols, les polyols cycliques, les diglycols éthoxylés ou propoxylés, les alcools (méthanol, éthanol, propanol, butanol), ou tout mélange de ces solvants.2. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to claim 1, characterized in that the extraction solvents used are chosen from water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, methyl or ethyl ethers of diglycols, cyclic polyols, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols, alcohols (methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol), or any mixture of these solvents.
3. Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques selon les revendications 1 à 2 caractérisées en ce que l'extrait de Kava Piper methysticum est obtenu par un mélange eau/propylène glycol (50/50, p/p), puis, qu'après séchage, l'extrait sec est repris dans du butylène glycol.3. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the extract of Kava Piper methysticum is obtained by a water / propylene glycol mixture (50/50, w / w), then, only after drying, l 'dry extract is taken up in butylene glycol.
4. Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3 caractérisées en ce que l'extraction réalisée à partir des racines de Kava Piper methysticum est remplacée par des techniques de macération ou par d'autres procédés comme, par exemple, la simple décoction, la lixiviation, l'extraction sous reflux, l'extraction au moyen d'ultrasons ou de micro-ondes ou enfin des techniques à contre courant.4. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the extraction carried out from the roots of Kava Piper methysticum is replaced by maceration techniques or by other methods such as, for example, simple decoction, leaching, extraction under reflux, extraction using ultrasound or microwaves or finally countercurrent techniques.
5 Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4 caractérisées en ce que l'extrait de Kava Piper methysticum est utilisé soit sous forme liquide, soit sous forme sèche obtenue par les techniques classiques de précipitation, de séchage, d 'évaporation, d'atomisation ou de lyophilisation.5 Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 4 characterized in that the extract of Kava Piper methysticum is used either in liquid form or in dry form obtained by conventional techniques of precipitation, drying, evaporation, atomization or lyophilization.
6. Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5 caractérisées en ce que la concentration de l'extrait de Kava Piper methysticum est comprise entre 0,01% et 50% (p/p), préférentiellement entre 0.5 % et 7 % en poids, dans le produit fini.6. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the concentration of the extract of Kava Piper methysticum is between 0.01% and 50% (w / w), preferably between 0.5% and 7% by weight, in the finished product.
7. Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6 caractérisées en ce que l'extrait de Kava Piper methysticum est utilisé dans toute forme galénique employée en cosmétique ou dermopharmacie: émulsions H/E et E/H, laits, lotions, pommades, lotions capillaires, shampooings, savons, sticks et crayons, sprays, huiles corporelles. 7. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the extract of Kava Piper methysticum is used in any galenic form used in cosmetics or dermopharmacy: O / W and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions, ointments, hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays, body oils.
8. Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7 caractérisées en ce que l'extrait de Kava Piper methysticum est incorporé dans des vecteurs cosmétiques comme les liposomes, les chylomicrons, les macro-, micro- et nanoparticules ainsi que les macro-, micro- et nanocapsules, ou absorbés sur des polymères organiques poudreux, les talcs, bentonites et autres supports minéraux.8. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the extract of Kava Piper methysticum is incorporated into cosmetic vectors such as liposomes, chylomicrons, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles as well as macro-, micro- and nanocapsules, or absorbed on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites and other mineral supports.
9. Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8 caractérisées en ce que l'extrait de Kava Piper methysticum est combiné dans les compositions cosmétiques avec tout autre ingrédient habituellement utilisé en cosmétique: lipides d'extraction et/ou de synthèse, polymères gélifiants et viscosants, tensioactifs et émulsifiants, principes actifs hydro- ou liposolubles, extraits d'autres plantes, extraits tissulaires, extraits marins.9. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the extract of Kava Piper methysticum is combined in the cosmetic compositions with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics: extraction lipids and / or synthesis, gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, water- or liposoluble active principles, extracts from other plants, tissue extracts, marine extracts.
10. Utilisation des compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques contenant un extrait végétal de Kava Piper methysticum pour la préparation de médicaments contre les effets cutanés du stress, pour apaiser, calmer, relaxer, hydrater, régénérer la peau, pour réguler la microcirculation et la respiration cellulaire, prévenir le vieillissement de la peau et du cuir chevelu, pour obtenir des effets anti-inflammatoires, amincissant et anti-cellulite et antiacné. 10. Use of cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions containing a plant extract of Kava Piper methysticum for the preparation of drugs against the cutaneous effects of stress, to soothe, calm, relax, hydrate, regenerate the skin, to regulate microcirculation and cellular respiration, prevent aging of the skin and scalp, to obtain anti-inflammatory, slimming and anti-cellulite and anti-acne effects.
PCT/FR1998/002393 1997-11-17 1998-11-09 Compositions for cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical use containing a plant extract obtained from kava piper methysticum roots WO1999025369A1 (en)

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CN115581644A (en) * 2022-09-20 2023-01-10 陕西畅想制药有限公司 Microencapsulated kava pepper extract and preparation method and application thereof
CN115581644B (en) * 2022-09-20 2023-11-03 陕西畅想制药有限公司 Microencapsulated kava extract and preparation method and application thereof
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FR2771002A1 (en) 1999-05-21
FR2771002B1 (en) 2000-03-31
AU1161699A (en) 1999-06-07

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