WO1983000707A1

WO1983000707A1 - New plane textile structure of the seaming-knitting type and manufacturing process thereof

Info

Publication number: WO1983000707A1
Application number: PCT/FR1982/000016
Authority: WO
Inventors: S.A. Dinalt
Original assignee: GUILLAUD, André, Claude
Priority date: 1982-01-27
Filing date: 1982-01-27
Publication date: 1983-03-03
Also published as: EP0087420A1

Abstract

The binding by seaming of such plane textile structure is alternatingly provided by a conventional and visually locatable yarn (4A) and by a yarn (4B) of which the optical properties are such that it is intermingled with the elements for which it provides the keeping; said yarn (4B) may be selected among translucent single ended bristles made of synthetic materials; alternatively, said yarn may be selected among conventional yarns of which the coloration is similar to that of at least one of the elements for which it provides the keeping.

Description

NOVEL PLANE TEXTILE STRUCTURE OF THE SEWING-KNITTING TYPE AND MANUFACTURING METHOD THEREOF

The present invention relates to a new flat textile structure of the sewing-knitting type as well as its manufacturing process.

The two main processes used for a very long time for the production of flat textile structures are weaving in which two sheets of orthogonal threads cross each other at a certain periodicity, and knitting in which the threads intertwine with each other to form stitches. Other techniques came a few years ago to complete these processes; thus, according to a technique called sewing-knitting, two plies of threads are superposed orthogonally and then linked together by additional sewing threads according to a zig-zag stitch having the appearance of jersey stitches; this sewing-knitting technique has met with great success because it makes it possible to obtain very quickly, and with a low production cost, multiple and varied flat textile structures; the appearance of these textile structures can still be varied by introducing, at the same time as the orthogonal yarn maps, or in place of at least one of these, flat surfaces of any flexible or semi-rigid material such as felt, nonwoven, paper, fabric, etc. The original characteristics of the textile structures thus obtained have opened up numerous fields of application to them, especially in wall decoration. It however criticizes the planar textile structures obtained by sewing-knitting, their characteristic appearance which differentiates them from conventional textile structures and specia _¬ LEMENT tissue; in fact, the appearance of these structures is characterized by the superposition of the orthogonal elements and one cannot find there the traditional canvas aspect, obtained by weaving, and which shows, due to the crossing of the plies of warp threads and weft, the appearance and successive disappearance of the warp yarn on the weft yarn and vice versa.

The purpose of the present invention is to achieve, by the sewing-knitting technique, flat textile structures having the appearance of the textile structures obtained by conventional weaving techniques, that is to say in which there is an effect of alternative and successive appearance and disappearance of the elements apparent from the structure.

During its research, the Applicant observed that, in these structures, only the threads ensuring the binding by sewing present an alternating play of surface from right to reverse and it has endeavored to amplify this effect by looking for the. means of making these wires visible alternately, playing specially on the variations in their optical properties.

The subject of the invention is therefore a flat textile structure of the type obtained according to the sewing-knitting technique and whose originality consists in that its binding by sewing is provided alternately by a conventional thread and visually identifiable, and by a thread of which the optical properties are such that it merges with the elements which it maintains.

The mesh columns ensuring the attachment of the elements of the textile structure thus obtained are alternately constituted by an apparent wire mesh and by an invisible wire mesh since it merges with the rest of the structure. This effect repeating on each column, with a shift of a mesh each time, allows to find the appearance of successive appearance and disappearance of a thread on a support, characteristic aspect of the woven article and especially of the canvas weave. We can easily understand the value of these new structures which combine the appearance of textile structures obtained by weaving, the economic, technical and aesthetic advantages of structures obtained by sewing-knitting. The sewing thread merging with the elements which it maintains is advantageously chosen from single-strand translucent synthetic hair, such as polyamides or polyester.

According to another characteristic of the invention, the sewing thread merging with the elements which it maintains is chosen from conventional yarns whose coloring is similar to that of at least one of the elements which it ensures maintenance.

Structures obtained by sewing-knitting are described in French patents 1,007,507 and 1,474,018; in these structures, sewing is optionally carried out with threads of different colors but in no case with threads whose coloring merges with that of at least one of the elements which they maintain.

The present invention also relates to the binding process used to obtain the flat textile structures according to the invention; this process consists in alternately supplying the needles used to carry out the binding-sewing-knitting operation with a conventional thread and visually identifiable on the finished article and with a thread whose optical properties are such that it merges optically with the elements which it maintains.

The present invention will be better understood moreover and its advantages will emerge clearly from the description which follows, with reference to the appended diagrammatic drawing in which: Figure 1 is a textile planed structure of the conventional stitching type;

Figure 2 is a flat textile structure according to the invention;

Figure 3 shows schematically the external appearance of the structure of Figure 2;

Figures 4 and 5 show the working mode of the needles ensuring the binding by sewing-knitting.

In FIGS. 2 represents the ply of warp threads, 3. the ply of weft threads and 4 the ply of threads ensuring the binding by sewing-knitting.

In the conventional structure shown in FIG. 1, the ply of warp threads 2 is placed orthogonally relative to the weft son ply 3, these two plies overlapping without crossing; the holding in place and the binding of these plies 2 and 3 is ensured by the threads 4 of sewing according to a zig-zag stitch giving a mesh effect. In the case shown in FIG. 1, it is the constant superposition of the warp 2 and weft 3 plies which visually predominates, giving the finished article the classic appearance of the structures obtained by the sewing-knitting technique. The structure according to the invention, as shown in FIG. 2, differs from the previous one in that the wires 4, linking together the layers of wires 2 and 3 are made visible by alternation. For this purpose, the ply of sewing threads comprises, alternating 1: 1 a thread of conventional type 4A visually locatable on the finished article and a thread 4B whose optical properties are such that it merges with the elements of which it provides maintenance.

Thus on a sewing-knitting machine of gauge 9 for example, one alternately introduces to compose the layer of sewing threads, a white fibber thread 2/28, constituting the thread 4A and a translucent polyamide hair 90 dtex ; a warp 2 and a weft 3 of carded yarn 4 are placed on the loom according to the conventional technique. The aspect obtained is well illustrated in FIG. 2 in which it appears that the first column of meshes is constituted alternately by a mesh of wire 4A then by a mesh of wire 4B, the first loop therefore being visible and visible on the place, the second invisible and so on. In the second column of stitches, the game is the same but offset by a unit of stitches which allows to find visually the appearance and the successive disappearance of a wire on a characteristic support in particular of the weave woven canvas that we set out to imitate. This aspect is shown diagrammatically in FIG. 3 in which, for the sake of simplification, only the wires 4A and 4B have been shown ensuring attachment by sewing. We find, in Figures 4 and 5 the working mode of the needles which work to ensure the binding of the structure, these needles being alternately supplied with a wire 4A and with a wire 4B. It is easy to see the variety of effects that it is possible to obtain by playing with the respective characteristics of the wires 4A and 4B, as well as those of the wires 2 and 3 constituting warp and weft elements and on the flexible or semi-material rigid (not shown in the drawing) possibly inserted between these elements, or replacing some of them.

This is how 4A wires can be of any kind (natural, artificial or synthetic) and of any shape (smooth, coarse, fancy), they can be dyed in unison or mottled and will thus allow to obtain effects very new.

By playing with the nature of the frame, we can obtain "crossover" effects.

The introduction at the same time or as a replacement of the weft 3 of a flexible or semi-rigid material such as paper, nonwoven, felt, fabric, etc. which can itself be dyed or printed allows to obtain an embroidery aspect on the finished article since, as described above, the sewing thread would appear or disappear alternately: in this case, the 4B thread can be dyed with the color of the interleaved material with which it will confuse at the time of sewing, the thread 4A being dyed in a clearly different color to obtain the desired embroidery effect. As is obvious and as is clear from the foregoing, the present invention is not limited to the single embodiment described above by way of example; on the contrary, it embraces all of the variant embodiments thereof, whatever in particular the number and nature of the elements other than the sewing threads constituting the flat textile structure obtained by sewing-knitting and whatever the subsequent treatments also applied. at this structure: classic printing, transfer printing, laminating, coating, etc.

Claims

- CLAIMS - 1 - Flat textile structure of the type obtained according to the sewing-knitting technique, characterized in that its binding by sewing is ensured. alternatively by a conventional and visually identifiable wire 4A and by a wire 4B whose optical properties are. such that it merges with the elements it maintains.

2 - Textile structure according to claim 1, characterized in that the sewing thread merging with the elements which it maintains is chosen from. translucent single strands of synthetic materials such as polyamides or polyester.

3 - Structure according to claim 1, characterized in that the sewing thread 43 merging with the elements which it maintains is chosen from conventional son whose coloring is similar to that of at least one of the elements whose it provides maintenance.

4 - Method of tying used to obtain the flat textile structures according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it consists in alternately feeding the needles used to perform the tying operation by sewing knitting with a conventional yarn and visually locatable on the finished article 4A and with a yarn 4B whose optical properties are such that it merges optically with the elements which it maintains.