US993490A - Shoe-sewing machine. - Google Patents

Description

E. E. WINKLBY. SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLIGATION FILED MAR. 26, 1397.

Patented May 30,1911.

7 SHEETSSHEET 1.

INVENT UR- 669' WITNESSES- Va/ ITNE 5 5B 5 (54 A; 5% %'%Z@q E. E. WINKLEY.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APBLIGATION FILED MAR. 26, 1897.

' Patented May 30, 1911 7 SHEETSSHEET 2.

E. B. WINKLEY.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION TILED MAR. 26, 1897. 993,490, Patented May 30, 1911 7 SHEETS-SHEET, 3L

WITNESSES. INVBNTEI (a 43% 15. m6. Maj 1 E. B. WINKLEY. SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED 111111. 26, 1897.

Patented Ma 30, 1911.

7 SHEETSSHEET 4'.

w! w n WITNESSES WINKLEY.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 26, 1897.

Patented May 30,1911.

7 SHEETSSHEET 5 WITNESSES INTER;

JW. W W

E. B. WINKLEY.

SHOE'SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED MAR.2.1897.

Patented May 30, 1911.

QQ3AQQ 7 SHEETS-SHEET 6.

Fig?

5 E 5 5 B N W. W

E. E. WINKLEY.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIGATION FILED MAR. 25, 1897.

Patented May 30, 1911.

7 SHEETS$HEET 7.

FI L 1EL WITNESSES- ERAST US E. WINKLEY, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS.

SHOE-SEWING MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent. Patented 313.5730, 1911.

Application filed March 26, .1897. Serial No. 629,411.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, Ems'ms E. VINKLEY, citizen of the United States, residing at Lynn, in the county of Essexand State of Massachusetts, hay e invented certain new and gseful Improvements in Shoe-Sewing Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use'the same.

The present invention relates to improvements in shoe sewing machines and more particularly to .improvements in that class of shoe sewing machines which unite the welt to the lasted upper and insole.

Machines, of -the above class,.which have heretofore been successful in their operation, and have been adopted by the trade, are generally of the chain stitch type, great difiiculty having been heretofore found in adapting lock stitch mechanisms to this class of machines.

In a welt machine it is essential that the welt and upper should be tightly drawn against the shoulder (or lip) of the insole as the stitch is set, and in so far as I am advised of the art, one of the greatest difiicuL ties in adapting lock-stitch mechanism to this class of work, is to properly regulate the relative tension of the shuttle and supply threads, so that the take up will properly set the stitch and position the lock. It may be said in this connection that if the shuttle tension is too heavy, the thread, while the stitch is being set, will draw from the supply over the take up, and the stitch is apt to be loose, and the lock or bight left at or too near the outside of the between substances, while if: the tension of the shuttle thread is too light the bight or lock is apt to be drawn through the between substance, also leaving a loose stitch. Itis also a well known fact that if a too heavy tension is carried upon the shuttle thread the machine is apt to break the l thread causing delayand producing imper fect work.

The object of the present invention is to obviate the difiiculty hereinbefore suggested. and generally to improve the construction and operation of machines of this class, and to the above end the present invention consists in improved shuttle thread tension devices whereby the tension npon the shuttle thread is increased to prevent the shuttle thread from being drawn off while the increased as above stated; the present invention also consists of certain improvements in the form and arrangement of the shuttle, and of the mechanisms controlling the looper and channel guide, also of an improved arrangement of the channel guide and welt guide to grip or clamp the between substances and feed the work, and of other improved devices and combinations of devices hereinafter more specifically pointed out and claimed.

A preferred form of the present invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings in which- I Figure l is a side view of a welt sewing machine embodying a preferred form of the present invention, a' portion offthe frame broken away to show underlying parts, andthe supporting column omitted. Fig. 2 is a plan v1ew. F 1g. 3 IS a front elevation? Flg. 4 is a side View partially in sect-ion showmg the channel guide and immediately associated parts detached. Fig. 5 is a side View of the shuttle and shuttle thread measuring devices, and immediately assoclated parts detached. Figs. 6 and 7 are respectively top and front views. of the mechanism illustrated in Fig. 5. Figs-8 and 9 are sideviews of the shuttle. and shuttle race, showing the hook in two positions. Figs. 10 and 11 are detached views of details of the shuttle thread measuring device, and Fig. 12 is a section through the bobbin case, on line m m Fig. 5, showing also a portion ofthe shuttle tension mechanism.

Similar letters refer to similar parts throughout the several views.

In the drawings A represents a head or frame suitable to support the working parts of the machine and which isconveniently supported by the usual base or column (notshown.) As is usual in this class of machines the head A is provided with the standards a,.in which are providedsuitzible bearings for the main shaft B of thermachine, hereinafter called the cam shaft.

Upon the cam shaft B are mountedia series of disks C, C C and C arranged to rotate with said shaft and in which are formed a series of cam ways controlling the operation of the several parts of the machine as hereinafter described.

D represents the needle mounted upon the needle segment (Z, pivoted at (Z to a fixed part (I of the frame A. To the needle segment d is pivotallyconnected at'd, the link (Z which is also pivotally connected at (F, to one arm (Z of a bent lever d, fulcrnmedon the shaft B supported -in frame A and parallel to the cam. shaft B. One arm (Z of the bent lever cl, carries a cam roll (Z (see Fig. 2) which engages a cam path d formed in the disk C The above described arrangement is such, that a rotation of the cam disk C oscillates the lever 6Z6 about its fulcrum on the shaft 13, and imparts a motion of reciprocation to the link d, which oscillates the segment (Z about its center 01, causing the needle D to be advanced and retracted along a circular path.

E represents the looper, which is carried by a slide 6, arranged to reciprocate, and

held in position in aguide way 6 formed in the underside of the horizontally swinging guide block 6 as shown, the guide block 6 :is provided with inturned flanges or gibs' 30 along the guide Way c which support the slide 6. ,The guide block 6 is pivotally supported by a stud 6 held in a suitable bearing e" in a bracket '0? projected from the frame A. r

The slide, 0 is projected beyond the guide block 6 and its outer end is connected by a crank pin c, with a crank diskc which is carried by a short vertical shaft e mounted in a'bearing e in the bracket 6". The shaft 6, above said bearing, carries a segmental pinion c which meshes with a rack a, mounted to reciprocate in a bearing 6", on bracket 6 and connected by'a link 6 with a swinging lever e fulcrumed at 0 on the frame A. At the point of connecti'on between the link 6 and lever 0 is provided a cam rolle engaging a cam path a in the disk C. The above described arrangementis such, that a rotation of the disk C imparts a motion of oscillation to the lever 0 which, by naeans of the connecting link a, reciprocates the'rack e in its bearings 0 and by means of the segmental pinion 6 oscillates the shafte and the crank disk 67 carried thereby, which, by means of the crank pin 6 imparts to the slide 6 a,reciprocatin motion alon uide wa e and anoscillatory'motion with the guide block 6 about the stud e as a center, andthe combined movement thus imparted to the slide 6,

causes the looper E to move in a curved path around the needle D to place its thread in the hook thereof.

F represents the supply thread measurer,

or thread measurer .proper, which is pivotally supported at f, upona forwardly projecting bracket a in the frame A.

The thread measurer F carries above its fulcrum f, a rigid projection f, which is connected by a link f with one arm f of a bent lever 7, which is fulcrumed upon the shaft B which is mounted in suitable bearings in frame A and is substantially parallel to shaft B. The other arm of the bent lever carries a cam roll f, which engages a cam path 7 in the face of disk (7. In practice I provide in the project ion 7" an adjustment way f along which the point of connection of link f may be moved to vary its distance from the center f. The above described arrangement is such that a rotation of cam disk 0, oscillates the bent lever f, and,ahy means of the connecting link 7" and the rigid projection f imparts a swinging or oscillating movement to the thread measurer F.

As shown in Fig. l, the thread nieasurer H represents the shuttle mounted in a circular race h, ina fixed portion of the frame A, and which is engaged by the shuttle driver 72, between the hook and the heel in the usual manner, said shuttle driver 7L being carried by a short shaft 72?, projected through a bearing in the bracket 0? on the frame A. Outside of its bearing in the bracket a, the shaft 71, carries the pinion [L3,

which is engaged by a segmental gear h carried on one arm 12, of a bent lever h, fulcrumed upon haft B the other arm h of said lever carrying a cam roll la", engaging a cam groove IL in the face of disk C The above described arrangement. is such that .a rotation of the cam disk C oscillates the bentv lever h and the segmental gear h carried thereby, thereby oscillating the pinion h on the shaft 71, which actuates the shuttle driver if, and imparts an oscillatory movement to the shuttle H.

The shuttle H. see Figs 5, 8 and 9, is provided with the usual bobbin receiving opening h preferably concentric .with its axis of motion, and with the movable hook 71, which is pivoted at h to the rim of the shuttle H. The hook h has arearward ex tension h projected beyond its fulcrum hm, which is engaged bythe bifurcated end of a lever 72 which is pivoted at h. to the rim of theshuttle H. The lever [L13 also has a rearward extension, projected beyond its fulcrum 72-, which is provided with a toe it, which is normally held by a suitably placed spring it in contact with the shuttle race. The spring 71 conveniently consists of a coiled spring bearing at one end against the lever 72 and at its other end seated in a recess in the shuttle H. In the shuttle race it is formed a cam shaped depression it, into which the toe 71- of-the lever 72 is adapted to be forcedby the spring It upon each oscillation of the shuttle. The rim of the shuttle H is cut out, as shown at 72, to form a recess into which the projection [L12 of the hook 12 projects, and in which is located the lever 71 the toe 71- thereof, projecting therefrom through an aperture h to bear upon the shuttle race as before stated.

The recess it is conveniently closed by a plate 71 secured to the shuttle rim by suitable screws or other securing means. The

above described arrangement is such, that as the needle oscillates, the hook h is held Within the periphery of the shuttle H, but when the needle reaches its retracted position, the hook h being clear of the race, is thrown out by the action of the spring k orcing the toe h of the lever it into the recess h, and takes the thread from the needle.

The above described arrangement I consider to be an important feature of the present invention, as it removes any necessity for providing mechanism for moving the shuttle toward and away from the needle, as is common in machines of this class.

In theapert-ure h of the shuttle H is placed the bobbin case K, having a thread groove is extending preferably diametrically across its face, the lead of the thread S from the bobbin being along said groove is across the face of the bobbin case K. In accordance with the present invention the thread S is adapted to be locked in the bobbin case during the operation of the take up in setting the stitch as hereinafter described, and such result is preferably secured as follows: Located within the groove 71: is a tension spring 70. preferably extending substantially the length of the groove is, and adapted when compressed to hold the thread S against the bottom of the groove with sufficient force to prevent said thread from being drawn off of the bobbin by the action of the take up in setting the stitch.

For the purposes hereinafter described I find it desirable ,to alternately compress the spring 0 to hold the thread S from being drawn off the bobbin. and release the spring is", to allow the thread to be drawn off the bobbin, and for this-purpose I ha veprovided the following mechanism: The spring N has, preferably, the general shape of a bow flattened toward its ends, and upon its central portion which is raised above the bot tom of the groove 7c (see Fig. 12) bears the end of a lever if, which is free to swing upon a shaft k mounted in a bearing is, secured to a fixed portion of the head A. To the shaft 7.. is fixed a short arm 7: which is conrangement being such that a rotation of the diskCfiby means of the lever It will turn the shaft/c and the lever la and thereby compress the spring M, and pinch the thread S against the bottom of the thread groove la.

The 'cam' roll 10 is held incontact with the face of the disk C by means of a spring (see dotted lines in Fig. 5) which is seated in a recess in the bearing is surrounding the shaft 71: and one end of which engages said recess, while the otherend engages the lever 7: The groove 71; is formed in a rib 70 which extends along the face of the bobbin case K, and which is engaged by the concave end of the lever 72 (see Fig. 12) to restrain the bobbin case K from rotation with the shuttle H. The lever 70 also acts as a holder to retain the bobbin case K in the shuttle H, and when desired to remove the case K from the shuttle H, the pin is is raised to release theiever 70 from the arm /0 and since the lever k is free to swing upon the shaft 70 when released as above stated it may be readily swung back and the case K removed.

The shuttle thread measurer hereinbefore referred tois preferably arranged as follows; Mounted in a bearing 4) is a shaft o, upon the lower end of which is fixedly secured an outwardly and downwardly curved arm W, the lower end of which carries a pair of laterally projecting prongs forming the thread measuring fork '0'. VVithinthe bearing 11, and surrounding the shaft W, is a coiled spring o which acts upon the shaft o to hold the arm 0* in its retracted position, with thread measuring fork o out of the vertical plane of the line of the thread.

To the upper end of- 5 Cooperating with thread measuring fork v V is a vertically reciprocating thread measuring plunger 4;, the plane of movement of which is the vertical plane of the line of the thread. The plunger '0 is mounted to reciprocate in a bearing '0 secured to a fixed portion of the head A. To the plunger 'zfis pivotally connected a link 0 which is in turn pivoted to the end of a 'levero which is fulcrumed upon the shaft B and, between its point of connection with the link 11 and its fulcrum upon the shaft B?, carries a cam roll vi-which engages a cam path o" in the disk C From the plunger 12 is projected a downwardly bent arm o the lower end of which is beveled off at one side (see Fig. 10) and engages a beveled lug o formed upon a collar o fixedly secured to its bearing 1). The above the shaft 1: above descrilmd :n'rangenu-ait is such'that upon a rotation of the disk C a vertical reciprocation is imparted to the plunger 11, and as the plunger r nd ofthe arm ger v descends, it forces a bight of thread down between the prongs forming the thread measuring fork, which bight is drawn from the bobbin (the tension of spring it" being then released) and determines the amount of shuttle thread released for the next stitch.

T represents the take-up which is carried by the take-up lever t, fixed to the end of a short-horizontal shaft t mounted in a bearing t on the bracket a on frame A. The shaft t carries on the opposite side of the bearingt a segmental pinion 5*, which engages a segmental gear t, carried by one armi of a bent lever 25, fulcrumed on a fixed projection a on standard a, the other arm 23 of said lever carries a cam roll i engaging a cam path t in the face of the disk C Theabove described arrangement being such that a rotation of the cam disk C" oscillates the lever t, and, by means of the gear 25 and pinion t oscillates the shaft t, and imparts to the take-up lever t, and the take-up T carried thereby, a vertically oscillating or swinging movement toward and from the wor In the machine of the drawings no feed awl is provided but the feed of the work is accomplished by a lateral movement of the channel guide and welt guide while the work is clamped between the same.

P represents the welt guide, which may be of any usual or convenient construction, and which is carried by the inclined arm 7) which is rigidly secured to the feed slide 77. The feed slide p is mounted to reciprocate in a guide groove 77 which is formed in the iuiderside of a block or head fixedly secured to the bracket (1 on frame- A. Upon the outer end of feed slide-7v is pivot-ally connected one end of a horizontally swinging lever 72, which is fulcrumed at 79 upon the outer end of an adjustable bracket 77, lever 19* carrying a cam roll p engaging a cam path 79 on cam disk G The bracket 79 is connected by a horizontal tongue and groove copnection to a horizontal pro ection e on thestandard a of the frame A, and 1s descends, the beveled lower held in position'by means of a set screw 1)", tappedinto the projection a and is projected through a horizontal slot 32 in the bracket 9. The lever 72 is provided with a longitudinal slot 39 along which the fulcrum p is movable, so that by an adjustment of the bracket 2", as hereinbefore described, the throw of lever 79 will be varied to adjust the length of the feed as herein-' after described.

N represents the channel guide shown as an inwardly curved downwardly project ing finger, shaped to properly engage the channel in the sole, fixedly secured to a mental slide 12, which is mounted to reciprocate along a curved guide way n formed in a guide block 12 fixedly secured to the feed slide 72 The segmental slide n actuated as follows: Upon the slide u is located a laterally projecting stud a, which is engaged by a swinging lever n", fixedly secured to a short horizontal shaft 12-, mounted in a bearing a, secured on an upward projection 11 of the bracket c. On' Q the opposite side of the bearing a, the shaft 9 n carries a lever a which carries a cam roll a engaging a cam path 11 in the face of the disk Q. As shown at 11 T have provided a spring. preferably a coiled spring, one end of which is secured atvz to the slide a, and the other end of which is se-, cured at a (see Fig. 4) to the guide way n thespring n normally acting to hold the slide a, in an advanced positimnwith the end of the channel guide engaging the work. The above described arrangement. .is such that a rotation of the cam disk C by means of the-lever n oscillates the shaft 11''. in'lparting to the lever n a vertically swinging movement, the inward movement of the lever n causing its lower end to en gage the stud n and force the slide a inward. against the tension of the spring n, thereby bringing the slide 1; into-its retracted position, and disengaging the channel guide N from the work. hen the lever n begins to swing outward the spring 12*" acts to force the slide a outward and to bring the channel guide N into engagement with the between substances. clamping the work between the channel guide N and tht: \velt guide I. The throw of the lever 1" is preferably such that it allows the spring 72- to approximate the lower end of the channel guide N and the welt guide P. more 1?" closely than they are the between substances are inserted between the same, so that the lever a never interferes with the proper gripping of the work approximated when between the channel guide and welt guide. v To prevent any slipping of the worl which would lead to lRLQQ'UlHI'ltlPS' in the feed, I have provided a locking mechanism conveniently the following: On the back of the slide a is projected a lateral stud n9, 1:1

which extends through a segmental. slot n in the back of the guide block 71?. The stud n is arranged to be engaged by the cam shaped heel or of a lever n, fulcrumed at 02-" upon the guide block h The lever a is projected beyond its fulcrum n, and carries, adjacent to its outer end, a laterally projecting stud n, which engages a longitudinai a ma link n The link n is pivot. connected with a swinging lever a, which is fulcrumed on the shaft 13. Between the point of connection with the link a? and its fulcrum on the shaft B the lever carries a-cam roll 713 which engages a cam path n in the face of the-cam disk C A spring a is provided, one end of which is secured to lever n at n, adjacent to the heel. of the lever n, and the outer end of which is secured at n to the guide block W. The above described arrangement is such that a'rotation of the cam disk C by means of the lever 11 and the link n depresses the outer end of the lever n causing its heel n to rise and allow the slide a to be retracted by the action of lever n as hereinbeforedescribed, and a furthei i'otation of the cam C raises the link a and allows the stud n to be raised by the action of spring 72 which depresses the heel n of the lever n until it firmly engages the stud 11, and. looks or clamps the with the channel guide N in enslide n in its advanced position, gagement with the between substance. It will be noted in this connection that by means of the slot n, I have provided for different positions of channel guide N and slide n due to varying thickness of the between substances. I I

As hereinbefore stated both the channel guide N and welt guide 1? are carried by the feed slide, and when the work is firmly clamped between them, and the channel guide is looked as above stated; the channel guide and welt guide are simultaneously moved laterally by the movement of the feed slide as before described to feed the work.

- It will be noted in this connection that the studs nand a? are made long enough to permit of they feeding movement without disengaging them from their connection as before described.

I have not shown herein in detail the form of the several cam paths herein referred to, for the reason that having read the foregoing description of the form and arrangement of the several parts of the machine of the drawings and their mode of operation, and the following description of their correlative operation, any person of average skill in the art could readily develop said cam paths without the exercise of invention or of greater skill than is possessed by an average skilled mechanic.

I have llOttdQSCIlbQd in detail the construction of the welt guide I asthe same may be of any usual or convenient con struction.

I desire to call attention to the fact that the curvature of the slide a is such that its center of motion is in horizontal alinement with the center of motion of the needle segment, so that the working point of the channel guide N travels a circular path of the diameter of the path traveled by the needle. This feature is of great importance as insuring the correct positioning of the shoe so that the needle will properly enter the welt and between substances and emerge from the channel.

The operation of the machine of the drawings is as follows: Assuming that the take-up has just set the preceding stitch, the work is then clamped between the channel guide and welt guide, and fed al 1g the,

length of the next stitch by operat on of the feed slide, the tension upon the huttle thread having been released prior o the feeding movement. A further rotation of the cam shaft causes the needle, heretofore in its retracted position, to enter the work to get the loop of supply thread for the next stitch. lVhile this operation is occurring the shuttle thread measuring plunger is depressed and the thread measuring fork broughtinto the vertical plane of the thread in vertical" alinement with, the plunger, which passes between the prongs thereof and measures off the amount of shuttle thread required for the next stitch, and the plunger is raised and the thread measuring fork swung out of'the plane of the shuttle thread, to be out of the way of the supply thread when brought up by the needle. \Vhile the needle is entering the work, the supply thread measurer is actuated as hereinbefore described to engage the thread between the looper and the work, to draw otl" enough of the supply thread to form half of the loop drawn back by the needle in returning to its retracted position. the take-up descending to give down the thread for this purpose. As the needle reaches its advanced position l'llv looner is operated by the combined swingingand reciprocating movement of its slide and throws the loop of supply thread into the hook of the needle. The needle is then retracted drawing up the loop of supply thread. the supply thread meusurer moving toward the work as the needle is retracted to keep a tension on the loop of supply thread and insure its retention in the hook of the needle. As the needle is approaching its retracted position, the shuttle commences to oscillate. so t'nat when the needle has reached its retracted position the hook of the shuttle is thrown out, by the mechanism hereinhefore described. to engage and remove the loop of supply thread from the hook of the needle, which by further oscillation of the shuttle is carried bythe center of the shuttle into position to be drawn H by the take-up. After the loop of supply thread has, passed the center of the shuttle and at the time the take-up is setting the stitch, the shuttle tension is increased, as hereinbefore described, to substantially lock the shuttle thread, to prevent the same from being drawn off during the operation of the take-up in setting. the stitch. It should be stated in this connection that while the needle is in the material as before described, the channel guide is unlocked and raised to its retracted position, and the channel guide and welt guidev moved laterally into position for feeding the work, and just before the needle leaves the material, the

channel guide, by the mechanism hereinbefore described, is brought in engagement with the between substance bythe action of the spring which controls it, but remains unlocked until just before thefeeding movement, so that an opportunityiis the-n atforpded for the removal of a shoe from or its adjustment upon the machine. Just before thefeeding movement, the channel guide is locked in position to firmly grip or clamp the work between the channel guide and welt guide, and the operations hereinbefore described are repeated to form the next stitch. It is to be noted that the welt guide is moved in an opposite direction to the feed, and the Welt'drawn through the same, while the needle is-inthe materia-l'and holds the welt, so that no strain is brought upon the seam by the drawing of the welt through the welt guide, a result of great importance in this class of machines, and to whichI desire to call attention as being a feature of the present invention.

Having thus described my invention and itsmode of operation I claim as new and desire to protect by Letters Patent of the United States. a

1. A shoe sewing machine,-hav ing, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a channel guide and a welt guide, the welt guide being held from movement transversely to the line of feed, mechanism for moving the channel guide toward and from the welt guide, and mechanism for simultaneously moving the channel guide and weltgiiide to feed the work, substantially as described.

2. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a welt guide mounted on a support and restrained from movement transversely to the line of feed, and mechanism for moving the support and'guide in the direction of the. feed, substantially as described. v

3. A shoe sewing machine,having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a channel guide and weltfguide, means to move the channel guide along a curved path toward the Welt g'uideto clamp the work, independent means to lock the channel guide in its work clamping position, and means to move said channel guide and welt guide 'inagthe direction of the feed, scribed.

substantially as de- 4.' A shoe sewing machine, having, in-coni- 'bination, stitch forming mechanism, a channel guide mounted upon a curved SlldG,

means for mo ing said slide and guide trans';

versely to the lineof feed of the work, and means fer ii-iterniittently positively locking said slide at different positions along its path of movement, substantially as de-' scribed. a

5. A shoe sewing machine,having,in com bination, stitch forming mechanism, a chan nel guide, a curved slide upon which said channel 1 guide is mounted movable trans versely to the line of feed of the work, a fixed projection on, said slide, a cam ar ranged to engage the fixed projection .to lock the slide in different positions along its path of movement, and means for inter-' substantially mittently actuating said cam, as described.

6. A shoe sewing inachine,.having,in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a needle and means for actuating it, a chan nel guide, a welt guide, asupport for said welt guide, held from movement tran'sversely to the line of feed, and meansufor moving the channel guide and welt guide toward and from the path. of movement of" the needle, the movement away from the bination stitch forming mechanism include ing a curved needle, a channel guide said; needle and the work-engaging end of the channel guide being movable along curved paths parallel to each other and contained in thesame curved su face, means for supporting and. actuating the needle and chan-- nel guide and means for locking. the channel guide in any required positionalong its path -of movement, substantially as do;- scribed.

9. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a welt -g'lllfle; a channel guide, means for mov ng. the channel guide toward and from the Welt guide, said means comprising a springfor moving the channel 'guide toward the welt guide, and independent mechanism for looks;

ing thechannehguide in its. work clamping.

position, substantially as described combination, stitch forming 1O. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a curved needle, a channel guide, said-needle and the Work engaging end of the channel guide being movable along circular paths contained in the same cylindrical surface, means for tuating the needle-and channel guide and means for locking the channel guide in any required position along its path of movement, substantially as described.

11. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch formingunechanism, a channel guide. mounted upon a circularly curved slide, a circularly curved support for said slide, and means for moving said slide, substantially as described.

12. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a shuttle and its bobbin case, a tension spring uponthe face of the bobbin case, bearing on the thread, a movable holder for the bobbin case arranged to bear upon said spring and means to actuate said holder to alternately compress and release said spring, substantially as described.

13. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism in eluding a shuttle and a bobbin case having a thread groove in its face, a tension spring in said groove bearing on the thread and means to alternately compress and release. sald sprlng to lncrease and diminish the tension on the shuttle thread, substantially as described.

14:. A shoe sewingmachine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a shuttle and a bobbin, a shuttle thread measuring device independent of the shuttle and bobbin, and mechanism to actuate the shuttle thread measuring device to cause it to'draw from the shuttle and bobbin. the amount of shuttle thread required to form the next stitch, substantially as described.

15. A shoe sewing machine, havin in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a shuttle, a shuttle thread tension, a cam and suitable connections for increasing and diminishing the shuttle thread tension during the formation of each stitch. substantially as described. 7

it). A shoe sewing machine, having, in mechanism, a thread measurer comprising movable mem bers. movable into and out of alinement with each other and having a relative movement 'hen in alinenient to drawofl the required amount of thread, and connected mechanism for actuating the members, substantially as described.

1.7. A shoe sewing machine, havingfin combination, stitch forming mechanism, a thread measurer comprising a plunger and a fork, means for intermittently placing said supporting and acscribed.

it is acted on by the thread n'ieasurer,

fork under the thread and in line with the plunger ate the plunger and fork to force a big'htof thread between the prongs of the fork, substantially as described.

18. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch "forming mechanism, a thread measurer con'iprising a movable plunger, the path of motion of which intersects the line of the pull of the thraiid. a fork movable into and out of the path of motion of the plunger, and connected mechanism to actuate the plunger and fork, substantially as described.

19. A. shoe sewing machine, havin in combination, stitch forming mechanism, comprising a shuttle and bobbin, a shuttle thread tension device, a shuttle thread meas-' uring device independent. of the shuttle and bobbin, and means to release the shuttle thread from the tension device while acted upon by the measuring device, substantially as described.

20. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a shuttle, a shuttle thread tension device, an independent shuttle thread measuring device and connected mechanisms controlling the tension and actuating the measuring device acting to diminish the tension on the shuttle thread while it is acted upon by the measuring device, substantially as de- 21. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a take-up and shuttle, a shuttle thread measurer independent of the shuttle arranged to draw off the shuttle thread, a shuttle thread tension device, and connected mechanism operating automatically to decrease the tension on the shuttle thread while acted on by the shuttle thread measurer, and to incr ase the tension on the shuttle thread at the time the take-up is setting the stitch, substantially described. 22. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch toru'iing mechanism including a take-up and shuttle. a shuttle thread measure arranged to draw oththe shuttle thread, an independent shuttle thread tension device, and connected mechanisms for actuating the take-up and mcasurer and controlling the tension device, acting to decrease the tension on thesliuttlc thread. while and to increase the tension onthe shuttle thread at the time thetake-up is setting the. stitch, substantially as described. 25-3. A shoe sewing machine, having, in coml'iination, stitch torn'iing mechanism including a curved needle it t:

tle, the shuttle and needle moving about substantially parallel 213195, a movable hook carried by the shuttle, and means to actuate and mechanism to actuate the same, a circularly movable shut and mechanism to relatively actutrue said hook to project its point to intersect the path of movement of the needle, when the needle is retracted, to take the loop of needle thread from the needle, substantially as described.

24. A shoe sewing machine, having, 111

- combination, a needle, a looper, actuating mechanism for the needle and looper, a thread measurer having a rigld 1I)I0] 6Ct1011,

actuating mechanism for themeasurer, a

link connecting the rigid, projection with the actuating mechanism for the measurer, means for adpistmg the point of connection 'of link and rigid projection to vary the scribed.

throw of the measurer, substantially as de- 4 i e 25. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanisms, 1n-

eluding a circularly movable shuttle, a shuttle race within which said shuttle moves,

means to actuate said shuttle, a movable hook carried by said shuttle and meansto move the point of said. h ook'from a pomt within to a point outside of the shuttle raceduring each cycle of movement of the shut tle. substantial y as described.

26; A shoe sewing machine, having, in

c mibination, stitch forming mechanism including a shuttle and shuttle race, said shuttle having a hook movable from a point 3 within to a point outside of the shuttle race, 'of a lever carried by the shuttle and connected with the hook, and means in the shuttle-race for actuating the lever to move the hook, substantially as described.

2?. A shoe sewing machine, having, in

combination, stitch forming mechanism ineluding a needle and shuttle, a variable shuttle thread tension device, a shuttle thread measurer, a channel guide movable toward and from the .work and toward'and from the path of moveme'nt of the needle, a welt guide cooperating with the channel guide to feed the work, and suitable mechanism for actu ating the parts, substantially described.

28'.'A shoe sewing machine, having, in

combination, stitch'forming mechanism in-' 'chidi'ng a shuttle, an elastic shuttle thread tension device, a shuttle thread measuring device and connected mechanism controlling the tension and actuating the measuring device acting to diminish the tension on the shuttle thread while it 1s acted upon by the measuring device, substantially as described.

29. A shoe sewing machine, having, in

combination, stitch forming mechanism including a shuttle, an'elastic'shuttle thread tension, a cam and suitable connections for increasing and diminishing [the shuttle thread tension during the formation of each stitch, substantially as described.

30. A .shoe "sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism 'in eluding a shuttle, a shuttle thread tension (acting atall times to exert a' pressure on the shuttle thread, and means for increasing and diminishing the pressure on the shuttle thread during the formation of each'stitch, substantially as described.

31. A shoe sewin "1nacl1ine, having, in

combination, stitch forming mechanism includinga shuttle, a shuttle-thread tension device, and means acting directly upon said tension device for increasing and diminishing the tension on the shuttle-thread during the formation of each stitch, substantially as described.

. 32. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a shuttle, an elastic shuttle-thread tension device, and means acting directly upon sald tenslon devlce for increasing and dimlmshmg the shuttle-thread tension during the,formation of each stitch, substan- ,drawing and idle return movements in an opposite direction, and means for locking the shuttle-thread after the shuttle has completed its loop-drawing movement, substantially as described.

35. A shoe-sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, and feed mechanism consisting of a feed clamp,

one member of which engages the channel and the other'member of'which engages the upper, means for relatively moving the members about a stationary axis to clamp the work, and 'means'for moving the mem bers in the direction of the axis to feed the work, substantially as described.

36. A shoe-sewing machine, having, in

combination, stitch forming mechanism, a

work feeding clamp having cooperating members, one of which engages the channel and the other of which engages the upper,

orming mechanism inmeans for relatively moving the members to clamp the work, means for positively movmg the members to unclamp the work, and means for moving the clamped members to feed the work and the unclamped members to return them to theiroriginal position, substantially as described.

.37. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, and feed 'mechanism consisting ofjindependently supported clamping members, of which one engages the channel and the other the upper, re-silient means for moving the channel-engaging member, toward the upper-engaging member to clamp and hold the work while" the latter member remains fixed, and means and channel gage to feed the stock,v and for moving both members to feed the Work, mechanism acting automatically to engage substantially as described. the shoe and hold it during the return move- 38. A shoe sewing machine, having, in ment of the guide and gage. 5 combination, stitch forming mechanism, a In testimony whereof I aflix my signature, 15

channel gage, a Welt guide, means for relain presence of two Witnesses. tively moving the channel gage and welt ERASTUS E. VVINKLEY. guide to clamp the stock, means for locking Witnesses: the channel gage and Welt guide in working A. E. VVHYTE,

10 position, means for actuating the Welt guide J OHN J. COLLINS.

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