US956710A - Coat-collar. - Google Patents

Description

C. KAUPMAN.

COAT CDLLAR.

APPLIQATION FILED JAN.]4.191Q.

Patented May 3, 1910.

3 SHEETS-SHEET l,

C. KAUPMAN.

com" COLLAR. v APPLICATION FILED JAHM. 1910. 956x710,l Patented May 3,1910.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

C. KAUFMAN.

Patented May 3, 191i),

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

mig

v lar to Fig. 1, but. showini; the collar turni-d maintains its proper sho .e to a greater de- Ul-ilrlliiiA STIXTS PATENT OFFICE.

CHARLES KAUFMAN, Ol? CHICAGO. ILLINOIS.

COAT-COLLAR.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented May 3, ,1910.

To all whom it may co'nrrm:

Be it known that l. Cnam-rs KAVIMAN, a citizen of,lhe Uniti-l States, residing at, ('himgo, in lhc count)y of Cook und State of Illinois, have invented new and useful Improvements in Cont-Collars, of which the. following is a full, clear, concise, und exact description, reference being had to the ac eompanying drawing, forming :i part. of this specification.

This invention relates to improvements in cont collars, and particularly to that type of collar which, u'hcn.turued down, presents the appearance of the ordinary collar used upon over-couts 'and the lil-re, and when turned up presents the appearance of what is commonly known us the military collar.

The object of the present invention is to chcupen and simplify the construction of collars of the above-described type und at the sumo time to provide a collar which gree than do collars of this style ns usually constructed.

I have illustruted two embodiments o my invention i'u the accompanying drawings, in whichlig'ure 1 illustrates the upper portion of a coat with n collar of this style fitted therebo and turned down; l'ig. Q is :i view simiup; Fig. 3 is a view of n fragment. of the collar, showing the side which, uhcn the collar is turned down, forms the under side thereof and which. when the collar is turned up, forms the outside. of the sume; Figs. l and 5 :md Fig. 3 are two front .views und a rear View respectively showing,r successive Steps in the making ofthe construction which is sewod into the roller and nmintnins the Same in proper shape. as well :is furnishing the hinge upon which the coller is supported from the neck of the coat.:vr Fig. 7 is a rear view similar to ifigg. (l, showing the stifle-ning structure completed, :is in F 1g. o, but with the hinged piece or liep turned up; Figs. 8. 9, 10 und 11 show cross sections taken on correspondingl;v numbered lines on Figs. 4, 5, (3 and respectively; Fig. 12 is a cross sectional View of the collar and the upper portion nl the cout, the section being taken on the line 12-12 of Fig. 2; Fig. 13 is :t cross sectional sicu of the same with the collar turned down, the section being taken on the'line 12)-13 of Fig. 1; Fig.

14 is a rear elevation of n modified form of the collar: Fig. 15 is a cross section taken on line 1.3-1.3 ol Fig. 14; Fig. 16 is a view similar to Fig. l5 showing the. collar turned down; and Pigs. 17 and 18 are sectional views showing the made up collar in its turned-up and ruined-down condition, respeotivel) In the several figures of the drawings like reference numerals refer to the Same parts throughout.

Referring llrst to Figs. 4 and 8, which show the layers of material employed in the construction of the stiffening structure, before the same. have been folded, 15 indientes a strip of blotb, preferably some kind of waterproof material, upon which is laid one or more sheets of rubber cementing material 16. This connectingA material 1s cut to the same 'form as the stnp lhut is somewhat smaller thun the latter, so that the cloth 15 extends slightly bevondv the edge of the rcmenting mutex-inl 16 all around. Upon this cementing material is laid ny ieee of stili' lining cloth 17. This ieee 1t is cut to the same 'form and size as t e material. 16. By subjecting the whole to ressure and heut. :is by means of a heated tren; the two layers of cloth V15 und 17 nre rmly cemented together by the material 1G. This results in u comparatively still'` und thoroughly vmter-proot structure. Then the collaris made up with the stiiening structure incorpornted therein the fact that the latter is water-proof, :1nd thus una'ected by being subjected to rain, is of great importance. The collar loos not sag or lose its shape after becoming wet, as would otherwise be the ruse. this being onf.- of the defects of thi's typo of collar :is heretofore constructed. The stiffness' resulting from the method employed in making up the structure gives to the collar, when turned up to make it resent. thc appearance of the military co lar; firmness and a good appearance and prevents the saire from dropping down at the bock after thecmt hns'been in use for a time. 'A further nd'vautage 1s that the collar conclearlyshoivn in Fig: 4, while at its ends it meets the line of stitchingr 18. These lines ot' stitching, at their ends. almost meet the curved lower edge of the layers of cloth, but at their medial portion are at a considerable The next step inf distance troni the edge. the construction of the stiftci'ung part consists in folding the lower portion Q0 of the structure back upon the line formed by the stitching 19. As the line l!) curves udp midway between its ends this folding sume the. required form to make the collar lit snugly around the neck of the wearer instead of falling back at the upper edge thereof. The lower line of stitching 18 becomes curved, its curvature being greater now than that of the line 19. A line of stitching 21 is now run in parallel with the stitching 18, through the double thitkness' formed by folding the structure upon itself,

as plait 21 being thereby formed as shown in Fig. 9. The portion 20 is now bent down as shown in Figs. 6 and 10 and another row of stitching of stitching 21 but passing through three thicknesses of `the stitening Ystructure instead of through but two thicknesses. The stitching 22 is placed as close to the rounded edge formed where the material folds back upon. itself as can be conveniently done.-

The part 20 now forms a flap whichis hinged at one edge on a curved line to the 'nain or body portion of the stiifening structure, and can be turned up to the position shown in Fig. 11 or down to the position shown in Fig. l0. This flap is Wider at its middle portion than at its ends and is curved upon its outer and inner edges, the curvature being greater at the outer edge than at the inner edge. The stitfening structure is non' ready to be employed in the making up of the garment.

In Fig. 12, 24 indicates the goods ofthe coat at the neck and 25 indicates the lining at this point.

The collar of the gainent, when completed, comprises a. strip 26 of goods similar to that of which the coat is made and a second strip 27 of the same goods, the stitening structure illustrated in Figs. 4 to 11 inclusive being interposed between the strips 2G and 27. The strip .26 forms the outer side of tho collar when the latter is turned up, u'hile the strip 9.7 forms the inner side of the collar at this time. The strip 2G is of considerably less width at its medial portion than the strip 27, as the latter must follow the shape of the inside of the stili'ening structure. At the ends of the collar, however, llicse strips 2G and QT taper off to about the saine. width. The neck oi' the coat is inserted between the outer stri Q6 of goods of the collar and the edge ot the flap portion 30- llie stiffening structure.

istorts .i the whole structure, causing the same to as- Q2 is put-on, following the line e y In Fig. 18 the. collar is shown as turned l down, when the rib or edge formed by foldl ing the stitl'ening structure back upon itself becomes the upper edge of thil collar. g It will be seen that. the stidening part of this collar may be very cheaply and rapidly l constructed and that the material are conil paratively inexpensive. It will he observed lalso that but few ieces are required and l that the Hap 20 is su stantiall'v as stilll :is the other parts of the structure that are placed l in the collar, so that the collar is held up in l position without any tendency to sag or dr l down at the back. The peculiar form whie the stitening structure 1s caused to assume b v folding and stitching the same in the way above described ada ts it to form the basis upon which the colar is constructed, as it makes the collar fit the neck of the wearer and stand u in the pro r way at the back when the collar is turne up.

The modified form of collar shown in Figs. 15-18 differs from that described above in that the lait '2J is turned up instead of being iurne down as in the previously described construction. It will be remembered that in the construction illustrated in Figs. 1 to 13 the flap 20 is turned down after the plait 21 is made, and secured by a row of stitching 22. The plait 2l, however, may be turned up at the same time that the flap Q0 is turned down, a row of stitching 28 being then run in to maintain the parts of the coi ar in the relative position which they then assume. The same effect is obtained as with the form of collar first described with the exception that'the plait 2l.IIL extends upward around the neel: of the wearer instead of downward as in the previous modification.

lVhile I have described in detail two methods' of forming the stiifening structure by the use of a lurslity of layers of fabric cemented toget er, it is evident that a single layer of stiifer material may be used if desired, but I refer to employ the 'construction shown and escribed and find the same satisfactory. A single layer of heavier material would not as readily permit itself to be distort/ed when folded upon the curved line of stitching 19, and would not, therefore.' as readilyr assume the peculiar forni which ada ts it to hug to the neck of the wearer.

Hiliving thus described my i1ivention,tvhat I claim as new .-nd desire. to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. In a combination turn-down and military collar, a stitfening structure consisting of a blank of uniform stiffness havinfr the material thereof folded longitudinaliy to form an upwardly curved plait, said plait tapering from a substantial width at the center of the plait to a less width at the ends or' the plait, and .-:ziid plait being folded back against the blank, for the purpose set forth. l 2. In a combination turn-down and military collar, a stifleiiing structure consisting of a blank of uniform stiffness having the material thereof folded longitudinally to foi'in an upwardlyA -curved plait, said plait tapering from a substantial width at the centeriof the plait to a less width at the ends of the plait; and said plait being folded E' bark against the blank and secured' thereto ed back against the blank, for the purpose set. forth.

4. In a combination turn-down and mili'- tai'y collar, :i stiil'eninpr strnrrtfii'e therefor comprising a strip of iiiaternil of niiiforiii stiffness folded on a curved line extending longitudinally thereof and Secured together and a layer l l l l along another line which is, at its ends,

close to the edge formed by such folding..

formed, lthe flap being whereby a flap is o1" the structure on a joined to the body curved line.

In a combination turn-down and militari' collar, a stileniiig .structure comprising a strip of \\'at .i'pi'ool' iiiatei'izil, a Strip of stiil'ening material otl uniform stillness,

ol' waterproof eenieiiting mi'.-

. ferial interposed between said first and second-inlined strips and uniting,r the same. said stili'enin;r .structure being folded longitudinally to forni an upwardly curved plait, .said plait tapering from :i substantial width at the eeiiter of t ie plait to a less width at .the ends of tlie plait., and said plait being folded back against the blank, for the purl pose set forth.

In witness` whereof, I have hereunto subscribed my naine in the presence of two Wit- IISSCS.

CHARLES KAUFMAN.

Witnesses:

CHARLES G. Corn, F min F. Winni.

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